Install an Auxiliary Fuse Block Constant Hot and Switched
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- Опубліковано 6 чер 2020
- Installing an auxiliary fuse block helps provide more secure circuits when adding accessories inside your rig. In this video, I demonstrate the mechanics of why and how it works. Plus a detailed install.
Parts used in this video:
Soldier: amzn.to/2A72GYP
Soldier Gun: amzn.to/3gPTAAh
8 Gauge Cable: amzn.to/2A1NoV2
6 Way Fuse Block: amzn.to/30aQWiH
120 amp Relay: amzn.to/2UeMBHc
You will need 5/16" and 3/8" Cable lugs: amzn.to/3dBu5AG
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Parts used in this video:
Soldier: amzn.to/2A72GYP
Soldier Gun: amzn.to/3gPTAAh
8 Gauge Cable: amzn.to/2A1NoV2
Main inline fuse holder: amzn.to/3gJkjyI
6 Way Fuse Block: amzn.to/30aQWiH
120 amp Relay: amzn.to/2UeMBHc
You will need 5/16" and 3/8" Cable lugs: amzn.to/3dBu5AG
One thing I wil say I DISAGREE with: you 100% should RETURN those USB plugs and get the HIGHER (4.8 AMP I believe) version.... almost NOTHING you’ll be carrying around every day uses that 1.0A output to charge... that output is like iPhone 5 power (YEARS AGO)... all the new devices START AT 2.1AMP and go up from there... if you can find an 18V usb (instead of 12v) with an integrated “smart” charge circuit that detects the device’s MAX safe charge needs, you’d be on the CUTTING EDGE and would have a TRUE “UPGRADE” that would be relevant and useful for several more years AND wouldn’t charge your mobile gadgets at a SNAIL’s PACE (until USB-A is completely phased out by USB-C) - speaking of USB-C, I’d also look for a port that includes one of these while you’re at it... almost EVERYTHING now charges via USB-C.... but when you use a USB-A on the other end, you’re only charging at the speed the “A” side can handle, and the “C” side becomes irrelevant.
As for the “smart charging” integration, I know you can buy very cheap modules online (we’re talking under $10) that will protect and control the output once it has detected the capabilities of whatever device you’ve plugged in... they’re usually in the form of a PCB (microchip looking board) so you can easily tuck it away out of sight within your concealed wiring..
Over time, you’ll grow completely frustrated with the limitations you’ve placed on yourself with charge speeds of 1.0A & 2.1A as your devices charge 10x slower than they would at home (and sometimes NOT AT ALL w/ certain current tech gear due to the power being TOO LOW) - this is why I wanted to take the time to chime in about it.
Hope this helps!
Where do I get that first fuse block. ?
No link for the main fuse block that protects the circuit?
Thanks for the help man. So, if I have accessories with inline relays I can eliminate those and the one 120 relay takes care of all of them? I have inline relays for my led headlights, an led light bar,fuel lift pump,and rear led cargo lamps
Really like your wiring set up, I’m very picky with my wiring myself and most never do a wiring job I would have in my vehicle. But yours is top notch job. Although I do agree with the comment on the usb plugs. You should get the higher power! I changed mine and it’s a world of difference how much quicker it charges! As they say, there’s always room for improvement!😂
Hallelua its a miracle! A video that shows us how to ACTUALLY wire rather than showing the done project!!
Glad you like it! Hope it helps!
That's why I am here! Like damn... I just asked someone on their live stream and stated that people shy away from showing this part
I couldn't agree with the previous comments more. I have searched and searched for info on adding accessory fuse boxes and this is by far the best one I have found. Thank you.
Great explanation on exactly how and why the fuse block works! Step by step instructions were very clear and concise! Thanks!
The interweb is about 75% lies, 20% half truths and then there's stuff like you put out in this video. Well put together, informative and very helpful. Ive been scratching my head at what to do then...boom...I find this gem. Great job.. Thank you
Thanks for the info on this. I came up with the same concept in my head, but wasn't sure where to start with getting the parts needed. This was a big help.
Outstanding video! You are down to earth, clear and concise in your explanation on how to do this. You took something that other folks on UA-cam make extremely complicated and made it very understandable. Thank you!
This is one of THE best videos I've watched in awhile. I love how you explain things and I enjoy your sense of humor.
The best explanation on this subject so far! Thanks a lot and God bless you!
Thanks a million, Chuck. I don't have the time at the moment to watch the whole video but will be back tonight. I'm doing a frame off on the YJ right now. I threw the dash and all the wiring as they were so hacked up from the PO. Flat dash and complete new wiring of my own. Also a 5.2 Dodge. I had not thought of the separate block for the switch on for the lite circiuts. Perfect.
Thanks so much for this video. You have given me so much help to solve so many challenges with my 89 Jeep YJ overhaul.
You are welcome! Glad the video helped!
This is hands down the best explanation for this process. Benn doing so much research on this, and you answered every question I had. Someone gutted the wiring in my 1982 Dodge B250 before I bought it and got in running again, and I plan to do this exact setup in it to power some interior lights and my sound system. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
I watched the same xplanation of another host it was really confusing you made it much much clearer with the mock setup u did thanks much I need to install another keyed fuse block for my 65 gto this really helps
As an aircraft mechanic who loves tinkering, I absolutely admire your experience and the workmanship shows.Have to admit that the length of the video was a bit intimidating, but as I was watching, found it absolutely informative and insightfully stimulating. Thanks for the video! Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed it!
Thank you for this, don't know how many videos I watch of people explaining this, but this was the first time it clicked.
Great video exactly what I needed
Thanks for posting this! This is exactly what I was looking for, for my 1970 Cutlass and my Sniper system. No longer will I have a mess of wires going to the factory fuse box. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
Glad the video helped!
How’s your sniper system running on your 1970 Cutlass? Helping a friend get his started soon with super sniper installed.
@@cutoversoldspartsguys3377 It is going pretty well. I have the Hyper Spark and Ignition Coil and Box installed. I am having issues with a little electromagnetic interference within the engine bay, but still trying to sort that out. But overall, still liking the Sniper system. Hope your is going well!
Spent hours on the internet trying to figure out exactly what I want to do. This video took care of everything and even made be decide to make some changes. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
You’re videos are awesome! Thank you so much. This is perfect for my 53 Chevy bel air. I Have everything wired to my key switch. This helps out, on how to take the load off it... god bless you.
Thank you very much and you are very welcome! May God bless you as well! 🙏
Man I didn't this was so easy. Thank you for making this. I'm going to do the same.thing for my truck.
Glad it helped
this is a great presentation, great explanation, and demo thanks alot.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
As always you set the bar high for those wishing to provide DIY videos - MERRY CHRISTMAS 2020
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you! Naw man, it ain't about setting any kind of bar. Just create videos that help people and be proud of what you do!
Very helpful video. I wanted an easy way to power led pods as well as amber flashers for my truck, but the 04 Silverado’s battery is awful for adding accessories to. This is a fantastic solution.
Simple and well explained. Thank you
You are welcome! Glad it was helpful.
Great video and very well explained.
Glad it helped
THANKS SO MUCH, I WAS KINDA ALWAYS PUT OFF BY DOING ANYTHING 12V, BUT I FOLLOWED YOUR VIDEO AND IT WORKED OUT PERFECT! THANKS HEAPS FROM AUSSIELAND.
Just found your channel and 30 seconds in I sub.
I gotta a lot of things to work on and I sure this is the info I need
Great video
Thank you so much!
This is the video I needed to see.
Glad it was helpful!
Wow radar detectors, haven’t owned one in over 15 years and they were obsolete then. I actually noticed a display for some at the store last week. Made me wonderwonder how many people still use them.
Waze app has saved me more then anything for many years.
I was looking for an awg size and wire length to amperage chart and came across your video. I wasn’t even thinking of adding a switched power aux panel with my constant hot. Good shit brother.
I personally use an Escort Max 360C and have Google Maps going on my Android head unit. It's best to have both options going as the Google Maps, Waze (not recommended), and others rely on users to "tag" a cop location... Whereas my radar pinpoints them a couple miles in advance, giving me the option to "tag" them for those who only use mapping software. Good radar detectors have a higher chance of saving your ass than any app.
Thank you so much for this video. Extremely helpful. Following!
You are welcome, glad the video helped! Thanks for subscribing.
Been doing the whole amp/stereo, lightbars thing on my 2k jeep TJ also...You gave me a new Idea for running power to the 10 inch kicker sub I was given (atm its cords all over the back hahaha) plus Ive been thinking on new lightbar switches and various other ports...To bad about the CJ dash conversion its one of cool things about a YJ...would rather see a round headlight conversion grill cause square is just.....square
Great video , answered all my questions
Glad I could help
Seriously the best video on the internet
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!!
Very nice tutorial, thanks captain.
Glad you liked it! You are welcome!
Dude you are the MAN!
Thanks!! Glad you enjoyed the video!
A lot of great advice
Thank you!
As nother great video.my fuse block is inside of my lockable,weatherproof center console,with my radio
Thanks for much you’ve just solved a head ache I’ve had all day how to hook up a switched fuse box only to work when ignition is on
You are welcome! Glad the video helped you.
Good job mate
Thank you brother! Liked and subscribed!
You are welcome! Awesome and thank you for subscribing!
I needed this video to figure out another Fuse block for my camaro and you explained it perfectly. 10:10 was hilarious
LOL .. Glad you enjoyed it and also happy that the video helped. Thanks for dropping in a great comment!
Awesome video thank you so much
Glad you liked it!
Thank you for sharing. Very good since I'm adding to my Honda 04 shadow 750 cams and in addition USB to charge my cell phone. Very good info.
Regards,
The Ghost 👻
Good approach and video
Thank you! Glad you enjoy the video!!
Funny and cool abut that tin can speaks 😅, I actually had enjoyed the video, very informative. Thanks a lot.
I appreciate the video
This is going to work perfect for rzr Right now I got about 24 wires going to three different post on the outside of the firewall
I can Barely get the nut on the terminal
Great job of explaining
Hope it works out well for you! Thanks for taking the time to leave a great comment!
Soo informative!!👍👍
Glad it was helpful!
Good vid thanks
Yes I mean exactly what I was wonting to do great job
Thank you !!! I have a jeep and finding switched power is. P.I.A this will help so much
You are welcome! It has made life much easier in my rig!!
@Poweraddicts finding switched power on a 2018 jeep is super hard. But with this way shoupd be easier. Again ty so much!!
Best video ever
Glad the video helped!
Well done. I’m a real new to this. I fully get the video. My ignorance is how do I say wire my led accessory lights with google switch to this switched fuse panel
Great video. You did a super job in explaining and showing how this system can be built and used. I see you have one main 120 amp relay for the both the HOT and Switch fuse box. I am wondering if the 120 amp relay fails or malfunctions you would lose all power to the switch fuse box but the hot fuse box would remain hot. What reasoning did you use not to have a separate relay for each switch device? I suspect it was personnel choice and costs. I took a look at my four switch devices. (power window, AC and fans, heater and power seats). Since this circuit does not affect the engine operating circuits or brakes, these four devices won't matter if they were not operating. What is your point of view and opinion? Thank you
I think what you are doing with the crimps works good with the tool you are using. But, if you have an AMP crimper, or similar, the split on the lug goes the other way. These crimpers sort of roll the split into the wire deformation area. This is not an issue in your application. I have 94 Sahara, Your videos are very thorough and informative, thanks.
Awesome videos. What size cable did you use coming off of the 120V relay?
I've seen installs with one relay per accessory, this high current relay setup is so much better
There are times for each type of circuit. If you want to control accessory circuits individually, one relay per accessory is needed. If you want several small circuits to be activated when you turn the key on. This video will get that done. Its all about what you want controlled and how.
@@Poweraddicts yeah my bad, might just want one thing controlled by a sensor. So can leave that on this high current relay, than have another relay for its specific function right?
Hello Greg install video. Looked at numerous videos on UA-cam but I keep coming back to yours. You make the install look easy enough for me to do it. I need something like this for my accessories. I have a DashCam, emergency lights and power fold tow mirrors. Will the 120 amp relay be adequate enough? Thank you for your help. Also just subscribed
beepbopping around lolol just subbed
Yo bro, keep up the great lessons / vids. This is a great upgrade. I will be upgrading; but will have my electrician friend handle the wiring....
Great Video mate!! Well done! I was searching the net how i can add an extra fuse box to my car so i can power my interior lighting, dash cam & get some more ports for mobile phone charging and your tutorial came up! Finally i end up adding two additional fuse boxes😅.
Only one question if i may.. In which block should i connect my dash cam? I got confused cause the hard wire kit has 3 cables. Black for GROUND, Red for BATTERY & Yellow for ACC. You see, i want to be able to rec at night when the car is parked.
Thanks in advance for your reply & keep the good work going.
Great video.. Don't know if I missed it but what amp fuse do you need the trigger a 100 amp relay. Thanks
Thank you so much for your review, I got a better understanding of how it works, i just purchased a 66 Chevy impala and it has the old fuse tubes, im looking to get rid of it and upgrade my fuse box
This can definitely help!
I love this video. Perfectly explained to people like me who only have a primitive knowledge on auto electrical. I was wondering on the relay you didn't use an add a fuse just went right into the radio terminal. Why? I understand it's a 120amp but what would be the minimal to close the relay to make the circuit complete
Was wondering the same
To trigger a relay it takes so little amperage that a fuse isn't needed.
Really enjoyed watching this video 😊
I'm installing LED lights around the van, light bar & work lights. Other videos create a relay fuse box for each light.
Does your split with one big relay, relieves me from doing that? Or do I still have to relay every channel on the secondary fuse box?
Ty :)
Nice instructional video… my XJ has no room under the dash to mount the fuse blocks, some nice room in the engine bay on the firewall right behind the AC evaporator… I would like use industrial grade 3M double sided tape to mount the fuse blocks… the fuse blocks could now be exposed to engine heat and the occasional engine bay wash… any recommendations or opinions?
GREAT video!! Subscribed! It gave me a lot of good ideas for adding aux fuse boxes for my 2003 F-350. Definitely going with the "monster relay" and will buy what I can through your affiliate links.
I'm not going to be able to mount my fuse boxes inside the cab - will have to go in the engine compartment. Any downsides to that or advice to do it right?
Thanks for the video. I am adding accessories to my XJ and this was a big help. Can you please comment on why a person would go this route vs installing a block with several relays (as seen on other videos). I'd really appreciate it.
It depends on the situation. If you are switching several different accessories, you will need multiple relays. This set up in this video will supply voltage to different accessories but will be all switched on at once due to one relay.
Hello first great video thank you very much for posting this. The best explanation of this process I have seen. I have one question is there a reason you don’t run the ground right from the battery. It seems to me it would be the best source for ground. Thanks for any guidance you can give me. Ben
Thanks I found this video it's very detailed! Im familiar with all wiring connection but not the calculations between amps, voltage and thickness of the wire. for example this 6way fuse block i want to connect 2 sets of led fog lights and one small Bluetooth amplifier stereo system . does 80amp relay and 30amp fuse inline with 8ga powe wire would be fine for this set up ?
Great video! You didn’t explain if you hooked up the USB PLUGS and where can u get them! Keep them coming
That was done on another video. ua-cam.com/video/jGfQOE9fG7s/v-deo.html
Hey not to get off subject but is all about wiring I'm looking at putting a engine out of a 1999 xj in my 1995 yj that has a 4 cylinder in it .upgrading to the 4.0 will the ecm out of the xj work in the yj and will the harness change over.Thank you for your channel and all you do. God bless you and your family.
I'm just tackling this just with my ‘74 Chevy K10 rebuild; great instructional video!
Is there a follow on with attaching accessories? I'd like to see how you added accessories for each hot/switched fuse block.
I haven't created any videos attaching accessories. If you wants a switched circuit, attach it to the switched block. Full time hot accessories like the radio memory attach to the non-switched block. All your grounds go to chassis.
Classic cars are so easy. The only source what need constant power are the hazard lights. Everything else can be triggered by ignition. Means also, safe of a lot of relays for each acc. As soon as the on off switch can handle the acc, there is no need for a relay
Great video... Quick question, can you run the negative from the tru mode relay to the fuse block negative? It seems like I should be able to, but really new to wiring.
You size the wire for the load. You size the fuse for the wire.
Yes you are absolutely correct. In my rush in getting this done I went totally off track on that.
Thank you for this video. I have a question regarding a project I am working on. I intend to have a fuse block feeding two 50W transceivers (GMRS & HAM) and two power points. The transceivers pull 15 amps each when in transmit mode and the two power points pull 10 amps each. Presently, I have an 80 amp relay that I want to wire as you show in the video. Since the max amperage I would be pulling if all items are being used (which, btw, I don't intend to be transmitting on both radios at the same time) would be 60 amps, would I be better off using a breaker rather than the inline fuse you show in your video? Also, can I get away with using 10 gauge wire from the battery to the relay and fuse block? Thanks.
When you tapped into the fuse block for the switch what if you don’t have a open spot how do you determine which port and size fuse for the fuse tap?
I have the same fuse blocks
They work great!
Did u run the ground from the relay to the fuse block ground ?
Great video, but i have a question. I’m switching from a mechanical fan to dual electric fans. The relay i have is from a Volvo which has 2 red wires to fan, 2 - 30 amp maxi fuses (1 for each fan) and 1 power wire. How should I run the 1 power wire?
Here is a stupid question. You have 1. Only 1 fuse box. You have 6 fuse slots in that 1 box. You have a 15 amp, a 10 amp, a 20 amp, a 30 amp, 4 amp, and a 3 amp. Do you need a 90 amp fuse. Or a 30 amp fuse 1 foot from the battery? Do you add it all together? Or do you go based off of the biggest fuse in the box to dictate the fuse needed near the battery?
Being a retired industrial maintenance technician, solder is only for circuit boards components.
I would use marine grade wires and marine grade heat shrink with e-grease and a feral
If you put an infrared camera on you solider points you will see what I am trying to show you.
For some reason, I got a habit of soldering almost everything (not really a good habit). I guess it's the many years of doing PC board work 🙄. All the components at work (air handlers, motor-driven chiller water pumps, etc.) all have screw-style lugs and even some with ferals. So, I know you are correct. I've had to repair connections after electrical inspectors come through finding issues. Where I work would let me sign one out to borrow at home. That would make a very interesting video. I'll have to demonstrate to show the difference.
Truly a high quality video. Excellent video sir.
My question to you or anyone who can answer this is...
if I install two fuse boxes just like you did and I want to install aftermarket lights that require a relay does it mean I don’t have to install an extra relay for the lights? Or do I still need to install an extra relay on top of this 120amp relay even if I hook up the lights directly to one of the fuse boxes?
And if so why would I need to install another relay?
Forgive my ignorance I’m just trying to learn more and more about electrical but it’s a little confusing for me at times. Thank you!
If the device you're adding pulls more than ~15A, then I would most certainly run a relay (hook the load directly to the battery, hook the low amp trigger for the relay to the fuse box) instead of pulling the power for the device directly from the fuse box.
To make live easier when needing to connect a high amp device directly to the battery: I installed a positive buss bar. You connect a buss bar to the battery once, then connect your high amp devices directly to the buss bar instead of the battery post. Mine has 8 posts on it. I also installed a negative buss bar. Again, the point of the positive and negative buss bars are to make it easy to connect something that you would otherwise connect directly to the battery posts. You can only stack so many things on those battery posts.
I would like to add some LD light strips to the headlights switch on a 92 YJ. Can you let me know how to do this. Thanks
Rewiring my ute to put a fridge in the tub. Do you have a link for those 5v 2.1A plugs/sockets??
Hey man great video, the main fuse block running from your battery cable... do you have a link to purchase that?
Its in the top pinned comment. Thanks for checking out the vid.
This is great for separating switched and constant power. Would you use dedicated relays for the different accessories as needed?
You can just keep the total load in mind to prevent adding too much to this added circuit.
I’ve tried to find all the materials you used because that’s what I need exactly but I can’t find the link to them
Yeah a lot of vehicles have a good location for a grommet where the clutch would be on an automatic transmission.
Or like the s 10 a huge grommet for the antenna makes it under the dash .
8 )
This is true. I've had several S10/15 frucks in the past. I had one that I transplanted a chevy 350 in it. FUN!!! Thanks for leaving a good tip for others 👍
Rather than fill the wire with solder, I use a ferrule crimp sleeve in screw clamp type connectors. Six of one, half-dozen of the other.
Ferrule crimp sleeves do work great. I've used them often. In some circumstances I prefer them.
1:38 Those fuse blocks are NOT meant for Car or land vehicles. Those are meant for marine craft. The reason it has the negative is because unlike a most land vehicles the chassis is not metal. Therefore it provides the circuits a "ground". Unlike most cars the cassis is metal and can be used to complete the circuit. It is very bad waste of wire having to come all the way back to the fuse block to make the circuit complete.
5:20 also those relays are not meant for this type of situation. What you need is a Continuous Duty Solenoid. It is all about the contacts inside. While the one you have now will handle it (due to oversize, overkill) the contacts inside are thin and can break down and cause issues from the current changing, everytime a circuit is turned on and off. A solenoid has a solid bar that goes across two posts/contacts. The lugs on a solenoid are much larger, meaning you can put heftier cable connectors on the wire.
Both fuse blocks need to be seperated , each with their own main fuse.
last that daisy chain is not a good thing.
Over all though it looks clean and should be ok due to overkill.
17:41 Soldering lugs on is a bad idea. Heat over time will degrade the connection and so will the vibration. You should always crimp the lugs on. Ad solder after if you still want too.
Great video what type & size battery are you using & is it holding up ??? Looking to use a marine starting battery in my truck listen to my radio on job site all day hoping it might not run down as fast as regular battery Thanks.
If you're doing a dual battery setup, consider running an isolator instead of just wiring them in parallel. The isolator keeps the primary battery from being run down, but allows the aux battery to charge AFTER the primary is above a certain voltage. You wire all your accessories to the aux battery (or, ideally, to a fuse box that's connected to the aux battery with a relay that powers the fuse box either when you turn the key on OR when you turn a switch on).
Could I piggyback off of one of my switched 12v fuses with a add a circuit for my 12v switched source to the auxiliary fuse block?
What was the red wire with blue that went into the car fuse box was it just a spade connector thanks
"Ah did that hundirtyfive amp alt'nater an' ah I anint ever upgrade mah charge wiare" had me dead
Gotta have a little fun! LOL 😂😀✌
Cool video - have copied your approach for the most part - was fusions about the ground on the relay - any reason you didn’t share that ground with the common grounds of the fuse blocks? just thinking, one point of failure to correct if grounding issue….. thanks!
Probably just did it out of habit. You could ground it the way you mentioned.
*Wait so how big do i need of a Main Fuse to protect my wiring? Im a bit confused, If i have a fuse block with 5x 15amp fuses = 60 i need a 70 or 80 amp main fuse?*
What size wire did you use?
Great video ans very helpful.. I just have a question, do i need to put a fuse for the wire that is going into ignition.. thank you
It only takes a few milliamps to trip that relay. If you want to put a fuse inline you can use a 5 amp and that would be more than enough.
@@Poweraddicts thank you so much