Parts used in this video: ( Updated the list 09/2024) Soldier: amzn.to/2A72GYP Soldier Gun: amzn.to/3gPTAAh 8 Gauge Cable: amzn.to/2A1NoV2 60 Amp fuse holder just off the battery: amzn.to/4eBmVeR If you want a resettable main circuit breaker instead of a replaceable fuse, use the amperage size for your application: amzn.to/3TBUXYh Main inline fuse holder: amzn.to/3gJkjyI 6 Way Fuse Block: amzn.to/30aQWiH 120 amp Relay: amzn.to/2UeMBHc You will need 5/16" and 3/8" Cable lugs: amzn.to/3dBu5AG
One thing I wil say I DISAGREE with: you 100% should RETURN those USB plugs and get the HIGHER (4.8 AMP I believe) version.... almost NOTHING you’ll be carrying around every day uses that 1.0A output to charge... that output is like iPhone 5 power (YEARS AGO)... all the new devices START AT 2.1AMP and go up from there... if you can find an 18V usb (instead of 12v) with an integrated “smart” charge circuit that detects the device’s MAX safe charge needs, you’d be on the CUTTING EDGE and would have a TRUE “UPGRADE” that would be relevant and useful for several more years AND wouldn’t charge your mobile gadgets at a SNAIL’s PACE (until USB-A is completely phased out by USB-C) - speaking of USB-C, I’d also look for a port that includes one of these while you’re at it... almost EVERYTHING now charges via USB-C.... but when you use a USB-A on the other end, you’re only charging at the speed the “A” side can handle, and the “C” side becomes irrelevant. As for the “smart charging” integration, I know you can buy very cheap modules online (we’re talking under $10) that will protect and control the output once it has detected the capabilities of whatever device you’ve plugged in... they’re usually in the form of a PCB (microchip looking board) so you can easily tuck it away out of sight within your concealed wiring.. Over time, you’ll grow completely frustrated with the limitations you’ve placed on yourself with charge speeds of 1.0A & 2.1A as your devices charge 10x slower than they would at home (and sometimes NOT AT ALL w/ certain current tech gear due to the power being TOO LOW) - this is why I wanted to take the time to chime in about it. Hope this helps!
Thanks for the help man. So, if I have accessories with inline relays I can eliminate those and the one 120 relay takes care of all of them? I have inline relays for my led headlights, an led light bar,fuel lift pump,and rear led cargo lamps
Really like your wiring set up, I’m very picky with my wiring myself and most never do a wiring job I would have in my vehicle. But yours is top notch job. Although I do agree with the comment on the usb plugs. You should get the higher power! I changed mine and it’s a world of difference how much quicker it charges! As they say, there’s always room for improvement!😂
The interweb is about 75% lies, 20% half truths and then there's stuff like you put out in this video. Well put together, informative and very helpful. Ive been scratching my head at what to do then...boom...I find this gem. Great job.. Thank you
You saved me. I was bout to give up with the project. Spent hours on internet breaking my head trying figure out, how to power up the fuse blocks without draw power from the actual wiring or without add a toggle switch. Thanks a lot
As an aircraft mechanic who loves tinkering, I absolutely admire your experience and the workmanship shows.Have to admit that the length of the video was a bit intimidating, but as I was watching, found it absolutely informative and insightfully stimulating. Thanks for the video! Keep up the good work!
Spent hours on the internet trying to figure out exactly what I want to do. This video took care of everything and even made be decide to make some changes. Thank you!
I couldn't agree with the previous comments more. I have searched and searched for info on adding accessory fuse boxes and this is by far the best one I have found. Thank you.
1:38 Those fuse blocks are NOT meant for Car or land vehicles. Those are meant for marine craft. The reason it has the negative is because unlike a most land vehicles the chassis is not metal. Therefore it provides the circuits a "ground". Unlike most cars the cassis is metal and can be used to complete the circuit. It is very bad waste of wire having to come all the way back to the fuse block to make the circuit complete. 5:20 also those relays are not meant for this type of situation. What you need is a Continuous Duty Solenoid. It is all about the contacts inside. While the one you have now will handle it (due to oversize, overkill) the contacts inside are thin and can break down and cause issues from the current changing, everytime a circuit is turned on and off. A solenoid has a solid bar that goes across two posts/contacts. The lugs on a solenoid are much larger, meaning you can put heftier cable connectors on the wire. Both fuse blocks need to be seperated , each with their own main fuse. last that daisy chain is not a good thing. Over all though it looks clean and should be ok due to overkill. 17:41 Soldering lugs on is a bad idea. Heat over time will degrade the connection and so will the vibration. You should always crimp the lugs on. Ad solder after if you still want too.
Wow radar detectors, haven’t owned one in over 15 years and they were obsolete then. I actually noticed a display for some at the store last week. Made me wonderwonder how many people still use them. Waze app has saved me more then anything for many years. I was looking for an awg size and wire length to amperage chart and came across your video. I wasn’t even thinking of adding a switched power aux panel with my constant hot. Good shit brother.
I personally use an Escort Max 360C and have Google Maps going on my Android head unit. It's best to have both options going as the Google Maps, Waze (not recommended), and others rely on users to "tag" a cop location... Whereas my radar pinpoints them a couple miles in advance, giving me the option to "tag" them for those who only use mapping software. Good radar detectors have a higher chance of saving your ass than any app.
Outstanding video! You are down to earth, clear and concise in your explanation on how to do this. You took something that other folks on UA-cam make extremely complicated and made it very understandable. Thank you!
Thanks for posting this! This is exactly what I was looking for, for my 1970 Cutlass and my Sniper system. No longer will I have a mess of wires going to the factory fuse box. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
@@cutoversoldspartsguys3377 It is going pretty well. I have the Hyper Spark and Ignition Coil and Box installed. I am having issues with a little electromagnetic interference within the engine bay, but still trying to sort that out. But overall, still liking the Sniper system. Hope your is going well!
I know this is old, but I Amin the process right now of doing this to my new side x side. I’m tired of adding, and adding, twisting, bending for additional accessories. Install this set up and make the rest of you life with that vehicle much easier!! PS, I’m sure you don’t have a 6awg crimper, but a little ingenuity with a couple metal cut offs in your vice maybe? Kind of shocked you didn’t crimp it. Also, for others, PROTECT those wires! Cut a piece of fuel line length wise and slide it on the cable at zip tie and sharp edge points! You’d be shocked how quickly it can rub through and short out. Loved the video, real man job.
Thanks for the info on this. I came up with the same concept in my head, but wasn't sure where to start with getting the parts needed. This was a big help.
This is hands down the best explanation for this process. Benn doing so much research on this, and you answered every question I had. Someone gutted the wiring in my 1982 Dodge B250 before I bought it and got in running again, and I plan to do this exact setup in it to power some interior lights and my sound system. Thanks!
I watched the same xplanation of another host it was really confusing you made it much much clearer with the mock setup u did thanks much I need to install another keyed fuse block for my 65 gto this really helps
Very helpful video. I wanted an easy way to power led pods as well as amber flashers for my truck, but the 04 Silverado’s battery is awful for adding accessories to. This is a fantastic solution.
Thank you so much and glad I came across with your set up and this is what I need for my aftermarket powered seats and windows. So much easy to follow. Thank you so much.
2 weeks straight watching videos. At first I couldn’t make heads or tails of this one. After watching 20+ videos and coming back to yours it all makes sense. Yours is definitely the best one and very descriptive. Thank you. On a side note why is it always ready to rain or bad weather when you all make these videos 😅
LOL .. Its Tennessee for ya. It can be clear one moment and crazy weather the next. I don't remember which video it was but on day one there was like 3" of snow, the next day was t-shirt weather and the snow was melting. Glad the video helped you and you liked it so much!!
I have a question. I want to make this system from scratch and not tap into a fuse block to kick on the relay. Can that trigger wire just come back to the positive side of the battery on a switch instead of using the key? Thanks hope it made sense lol
There are times for each type of circuit. If you want to control accessory circuits individually, one relay per accessory is needed. If you want several small circuits to be activated when you turn the key on. This video will get that done. Its all about what you want controlled and how.
@@Poweraddicts yeah my bad, might just want one thing controlled by a sensor. So can leave that on this high current relay, than have another relay for its specific function right?
I appreciate the video This is going to work perfect for rzr Right now I got about 24 wires going to three different post on the outside of the firewall I can Barely get the nut on the terminal Great job of explaining
Thanks a million, Chuck. I don't have the time at the moment to watch the whole video but will be back tonight. I'm doing a frame off on the YJ right now. I threw the dash and all the wiring as they were so hacked up from the PO. Flat dash and complete new wiring of my own. Also a 5.2 Dodge. I had not thought of the separate block for the switch on for the lite circiuts. Perfect.
Thank you for sharing. Very good since I'm adding to my Honda 04 shadow 750 cams and in addition USB to charge my cell phone. Very good info. Regards, The Ghost 👻
I think what you are doing with the crimps works good with the tool you are using. But, if you have an AMP crimper, or similar, the split on the lug goes the other way. These crimpers sort of roll the split into the wire deformation area. This is not an issue in your application. I have 94 Sahara, Your videos are very thorough and informative, thanks.
You’re videos are awesome! Thank you so much. This is perfect for my 53 Chevy bel air. I Have everything wired to my key switch. This helps out, on how to take the load off it... god bless you.
*Wait so how big do i need of a Main Fuse to protect my wiring? Im a bit confused, If i have a fuse block with 5x 15amp fuses = 60 i need a 70 or 80 amp main fuse?*
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you! Naw man, it ain't about setting any kind of bar. Just create videos that help people and be proud of what you do!
Being a retired industrial maintenance technician, solder is only for circuit boards components. I would use marine grade wires and marine grade heat shrink with e-grease and a feral If you put an infrared camera on you solider points you will see what I am trying to show you.
For some reason, I got a habit of soldering almost everything (not really a good habit). I guess it's the many years of doing PC board work 🙄. All the components at work (air handlers, motor-driven chiller water pumps, etc.) all have screw-style lugs and even some with ferals. So, I know you are correct. I've had to repair connections after electrical inspectors come through finding issues. Where I work would let me sign one out to borrow at home. That would make a very interesting video. I'll have to demonstrate to show the difference.
I love this video. Perfectly explained to people like me who only have a primitive knowledge on auto electrical. I was wondering on the relay you didn't use an add a fuse just went right into the radio terminal. Why? I understand it's a 120amp but what would be the minimal to close the relay to make the circuit complete
Great Video mate!! Well done! I was searching the net how i can add an extra fuse box to my car so i can power my interior lighting, dash cam & get some more ports for mobile phone charging and your tutorial came up! Finally i end up adding two additional fuse boxes😅. Only one question if i may.. In which block should i connect my dash cam? I got confused cause the hard wire kit has 3 cables. Black for GROUND, Red for BATTERY & Yellow for ACC. You see, i want to be able to rec at night when the car is parked. Thanks in advance for your reply & keep the good work going.
Yes. The black wire coming off the relay will be grounded, the other goes to whatever switch source you want to tap. Find a fuse on your vehicles fuse box that turns on when the key is in the ignition or turned on, insert just a single fuse tap into that, which connects to your relay. You will obviously need to insert a new fuse into that fuse tap, and it really isn't going to matter what amp fuse you use. It's only mission is to allow current to that relay. Just pop in a 10amp and call it good (while also inserting the fuse you pulled to insert the tap... Into the tap). The advantage here is that instead of adding a fuse tap for every accessory you add, you can just connect to your new switched fuse block. Simple, fast, safe, and clean.
@@NN13K0thank you so much for posting this info, i literally just finished wiring this setup and it wouldnt turn on . I used a fuse tap with dual fuse holders to tap into the airbag module 10a (acc switched) but i couldnt figure out why my new fuse box wasnt getting power so i popped in another 10a fuse and it worked! Thank you for this, since the vid doesnt explain regarding this.
Great video--thank you!! I am in the process of making this setup and using it on my custom van. SOO many accessories on it these two aux boxes will help. Can you tell me the gauge of the yellow wire that goes to the ignition on fuse? Thank you!
Here is a stupid question. You have 1. Only 1 fuse box. You have 6 fuse slots in that 1 box. You have a 15 amp, a 10 amp, a 20 amp, a 30 amp, 4 amp, and a 3 amp. Do you need a 90 amp fuse. Or a 30 amp fuse 1 foot from the battery? Do you add it all together? Or do you go based off of the biggest fuse in the box to dictate the fuse needed near the battery?
I need help on my audio led project. I have x2 6.5, x2 5.25 and x2 4x6 with twin blue led in each speaker.The 6.5 and the 5.25 are wired up with 14 gauge wire and the 4x6 with I think 18 gauge with 14 gauge from the battery and I’m trying to figure out how to connect from the battery to the fuse block from this video then out to 2 switches. The 6.5 and the 5.25 are my door speakers on one switch and the 4x6 are my dash speakers on the second switch.
Been doing the whole amp/stereo, lightbars thing on my 2k jeep TJ also...You gave me a new Idea for running power to the 10 inch kicker sub I was given (atm its cords all over the back hahaha) plus Ive been thinking on new lightbar switches and various other ports...To bad about the CJ dash conversion its one of cool things about a YJ...would rather see a round headlight conversion grill cause square is just.....square
Great video... Quick question, can you run the negative from the tru mode relay to the fuse block negative? It seems like I should be able to, but really new to wiring.
Thanks for the video. I am adding accessories to my XJ and this was a big help. Can you please comment on why a person would go this route vs installing a block with several relays (as seen on other videos). I'd really appreciate it.
It depends on the situation. If you are switching several different accessories, you will need multiple relays. This set up in this video will supply voltage to different accessories but will be all switched on at once due to one relay.
Great video, but i have a question. I’m switching from a mechanical fan to dual electric fans. The relay i have is from a Volvo which has 2 red wires to fan, 2 - 30 amp maxi fuses (1 for each fan) and 1 power wire. How should I run the 1 power wire?
Here's a quick question, most fuse blocks are rated at 100 amps total and 30 amps maximum per fused circuit. I am going to be running a 8 fuse block and a 10 fuse block. Would it be a good idea to feed them with a 80 amp resettable breaker ( to play it safe ) and 4 gauge wire or maybe 8 gauge for the input? The 8 fuse block will have a less than 2 foot run from the the 80 amp breaker and the 10 fuse block will have a 10 foot or less run from the same 80 amp circuit breaker these will both be fed off my main 250 amp breaker. I like to build my projects once and forget about them for lifetime service. I am in my mid 60's and constantly working on them is not the fun it used to be 😢.
Thanks I found this video it's very detailed! Im familiar with all wiring connection but not the calculations between amps, voltage and thickness of the wire. for example this 6way fuse block i want to connect 2 sets of led fog lights and one small Bluetooth amplifier stereo system . does 80amp relay and 30amp fuse inline with 8ga powe wire would be fine for this set up ?
I have a question. I'm running a secondary battery. the second battery is going to be connected directly to the alternator with an isolator. can i run your fuse block setup you have here off that second battery? Im wondering if the switched power wire will be interference?
I'm just tackling this just with my ‘74 Chevy K10 rebuild; great instructional video! Is there a follow on with attaching accessories? I'd like to see how you added accessories for each hot/switched fuse block.
I haven't created any videos attaching accessories. If you wants a switched circuit, attach it to the switched block. Full time hot accessories like the radio memory attach to the non-switched block. All your grounds go to chassis.
Hello Greg install video. Looked at numerous videos on UA-cam but I keep coming back to yours. You make the install look easy enough for me to do it. I need something like this for my accessories. I have a DashCam, emergency lights and power fold tow mirrors. Will the 120 amp relay be adequate enough? Thank you for your help. Also just subscribed
Can i use an add a fuse instead of that blue wrapped red cable you plugged into the radio port to trip the relay for the box that is ignition activated?
Nice instructional video… my XJ has no room under the dash to mount the fuse blocks, some nice room in the engine bay on the firewall right behind the AC evaporator… I would like use industrial grade 3M double sided tape to mount the fuse blocks… the fuse blocks could now be exposed to engine heat and the occasional engine bay wash… any recommendations or opinions?
Smart to add the info on a larger gauge alternator cable. Even on a factory spec alternator it’s never a bad idea to do it. Any customer I have that comes in I usually recommend adding it to any repair I’m doing. You can’t forget “The Big 3” too.
In general, fuses hold up better than breakers as there are no parts that can become faulty. Yeah it's a pain in the ass to have to replace the fuse, but it's better than a breaker not working when it should and potentially starting a fire.
I want to add one accessory fuse box for leds and such, if I have it connected from the battery, will it drain my battery when lights are not in use? Sorry if it's a stupid question.
Nope .. its a very good question. If you put the LEDs on the "switched" circuit it shouldn't drain your battery. If you wire the "constant on" fuse block you will have to add switches to your LEDs to prevent draining the battery. Hope this helps!!
Awesome tutorial. I feel much more confident now about what I need to do. This may be a "it depends" answer, but will that switched fuse block maintain 12V when cranking as you have it wired there?
You basically have 2 types of "hot" circuits. Full time hot (active 12 volts no matter the key position) and switched on "hot" when cranking and running. The fuse block typically has both types of "hot" circuits .. full time 12 volts and 12 volts when key on (cranking and running). So .. with that being said .. yes the way I wired mine the switched fuse block has 12 volts both cranking and running, but NOT with the key off. To all of you who are going to nick pick my reply ... in some cars (not YJs) .. yes there is a hot when only cranking .. an a hot when only running. That doesn't apply here so I wasn't going to make it confusing.
I know this video is super old but im working on doing some wiring on my police interceptor and this video has EVERYTHING i need in it you sir deserve kudos this video is AMAZING. quick question, no loctite or thread holder on the main inline fuse holder in the engine bay? Seems like those lug bolts will come loose eventually?
Really enjoyed watching this video 😊 I'm installing LED lights around the van, light bar & work lights. Other videos create a relay fuse box for each light. Does your split with one big relay, relieves me from doing that? Or do I still have to relay every channel on the secondary fuse box? Ty :)
Well done. I’m a real new to this. I fully get the video. My ignorance is how do I say wire my led accessory lights with google switch to this switched fuse panel
Great video. You did a super job in explaining and showing how this system can be built and used. I see you have one main 120 amp relay for the both the HOT and Switch fuse box. I am wondering if the 120 amp relay fails or malfunctions you would lose all power to the switch fuse box but the hot fuse box would remain hot. What reasoning did you use not to have a separate relay for each switch device? I suspect it was personnel choice and costs. I took a look at my four switch devices. (power window, AC and fans, heater and power seats). Since this circuit does not affect the engine operating circuits or brakes, these four devices won't matter if they were not operating. What is your point of view and opinion? Thank you
Classic cars are so easy. The only source what need constant power are the hazard lights. Everything else can be triggered by ignition. Means also, safe of a lot of relays for each acc. As soon as the on off switch can handle the acc, there is no need for a relay
Hi, I am new to car electrical system. I am confuse about how it works. My understanding is a battery has a positive and a negative terminal which is color coded red and black in most cases. I understand the hot wire concept but when you connected the black wired "Ground" to the metal part of the car which is fine. But where is the negative going back to the battery? Doesn't the fuse needs box needs the negative terminal connected to it too like the red wire? I am working on my car (toyota celica) and it feels that black wire is not needed only hot wire.... This in my head doesn't make sense. I am looking at a very simplistic way. An AA battery to turn on a light needs positive and a negative connect directly but this is not true? where is the negative terminal actually connected to within the car? Could you explain this? It feels that everything within the car is a sequential connection positive connected to a negative and a negative to a positive until it reach the battery... is this a correct assumption? I have decided to add a fuse box like your so that I can expand if needed but again I am confuse with the negative terminal. Where or how should it be connected to?
I have a question. Instead of tapping into a fuse block to kick on the relay. Can that trigger wire just come back to the positive side of the battery on a switch instead of using the key? Thanks hope it made sense lol
Parts used in this video: ( Updated the list 09/2024)
Soldier: amzn.to/2A72GYP
Soldier Gun: amzn.to/3gPTAAh
8 Gauge Cable: amzn.to/2A1NoV2
60 Amp fuse holder just off the battery: amzn.to/4eBmVeR
If you want a resettable main circuit breaker instead of a replaceable fuse, use the amperage size for your application: amzn.to/3TBUXYh
Main inline fuse holder: amzn.to/3gJkjyI
6 Way Fuse Block: amzn.to/30aQWiH
120 amp Relay: amzn.to/2UeMBHc
You will need 5/16" and 3/8" Cable lugs: amzn.to/3dBu5AG
One thing I wil say I DISAGREE with: you 100% should RETURN those USB plugs and get the HIGHER (4.8 AMP I believe) version.... almost NOTHING you’ll be carrying around every day uses that 1.0A output to charge... that output is like iPhone 5 power (YEARS AGO)... all the new devices START AT 2.1AMP and go up from there... if you can find an 18V usb (instead of 12v) with an integrated “smart” charge circuit that detects the device’s MAX safe charge needs, you’d be on the CUTTING EDGE and would have a TRUE “UPGRADE” that would be relevant and useful for several more years AND wouldn’t charge your mobile gadgets at a SNAIL’s PACE (until USB-A is completely phased out by USB-C) - speaking of USB-C, I’d also look for a port that includes one of these while you’re at it... almost EVERYTHING now charges via USB-C.... but when you use a USB-A on the other end, you’re only charging at the speed the “A” side can handle, and the “C” side becomes irrelevant.
As for the “smart charging” integration, I know you can buy very cheap modules online (we’re talking under $10) that will protect and control the output once it has detected the capabilities of whatever device you’ve plugged in... they’re usually in the form of a PCB (microchip looking board) so you can easily tuck it away out of sight within your concealed wiring..
Over time, you’ll grow completely frustrated with the limitations you’ve placed on yourself with charge speeds of 1.0A & 2.1A as your devices charge 10x slower than they would at home (and sometimes NOT AT ALL w/ certain current tech gear due to the power being TOO LOW) - this is why I wanted to take the time to chime in about it.
Hope this helps!
Where do I get that first fuse block. ?
No link for the main fuse block that protects the circuit?
Thanks for the help man. So, if I have accessories with inline relays I can eliminate those and the one 120 relay takes care of all of them? I have inline relays for my led headlights, an led light bar,fuel lift pump,and rear led cargo lamps
Really like your wiring set up, I’m very picky with my wiring myself and most never do a wiring job I would have in my vehicle. But yours is top notch job. Although I do agree with the comment on the usb plugs. You should get the higher power! I changed mine and it’s a world of difference how much quicker it charges! As they say, there’s always room for improvement!😂
Hallelua its a miracle! A video that shows us how to ACTUALLY wire rather than showing the done project!!
Glad you like it! Hope it helps!
That's why I am here! Like damn... I just asked someone on their live stream and stated that people shy away from showing this part
Exactly. Finally a thorough video
The interweb is about 75% lies, 20% half truths and then there's stuff like you put out in this video. Well put together, informative and very helpful. Ive been scratching my head at what to do then...boom...I find this gem. Great job.. Thank you
You saved me. I was bout to give up with the project. Spent hours on internet breaking my head trying figure out, how to power up the fuse blocks without draw power from the actual wiring or without add a toggle switch. Thanks a lot
As an aircraft mechanic who loves tinkering, I absolutely admire your experience and the workmanship shows.Have to admit that the length of the video was a bit intimidating, but as I was watching, found it absolutely informative and insightfully stimulating. Thanks for the video! Keep up the good work!
Thank you very much! Glad you enjoyed it!
Spent hours on the internet trying to figure out exactly what I want to do. This video took care of everything and even made be decide to make some changes. Thank you!
Glad I could help!
I couldn't agree with the previous comments more. I have searched and searched for info on adding accessory fuse boxes and this is by far the best one I have found. Thank you.
1:38 Those fuse blocks are NOT meant for Car or land vehicles. Those are meant for marine craft. The reason it has the negative is because unlike a most land vehicles the chassis is not metal. Therefore it provides the circuits a "ground". Unlike most cars the cassis is metal and can be used to complete the circuit. It is very bad waste of wire having to come all the way back to the fuse block to make the circuit complete.
5:20 also those relays are not meant for this type of situation. What you need is a Continuous Duty Solenoid. It is all about the contacts inside. While the one you have now will handle it (due to oversize, overkill) the contacts inside are thin and can break down and cause issues from the current changing, everytime a circuit is turned on and off. A solenoid has a solid bar that goes across two posts/contacts. The lugs on a solenoid are much larger, meaning you can put heftier cable connectors on the wire.
Both fuse blocks need to be seperated , each with their own main fuse.
last that daisy chain is not a good thing.
Over all though it looks clean and should be ok due to overkill.
17:41 Soldering lugs on is a bad idea. Heat over time will degrade the connection and so will the vibration. You should always crimp the lugs on. Ad solder after if you still want too.
Wow radar detectors, haven’t owned one in over 15 years and they were obsolete then. I actually noticed a display for some at the store last week. Made me wonderwonder how many people still use them.
Waze app has saved me more then anything for many years.
I was looking for an awg size and wire length to amperage chart and came across your video. I wasn’t even thinking of adding a switched power aux panel with my constant hot. Good shit brother.
I personally use an Escort Max 360C and have Google Maps going on my Android head unit. It's best to have both options going as the Google Maps, Waze (not recommended), and others rely on users to "tag" a cop location... Whereas my radar pinpoints them a couple miles in advance, giving me the option to "tag" them for those who only use mapping software. Good radar detectors have a higher chance of saving your ass than any app.
Thank you for this, don't know how many videos I watch of people explaining this, but this was the first time it clicked.
Outstanding video! You are down to earth, clear and concise in your explanation on how to do this. You took something that other folks on UA-cam make extremely complicated and made it very understandable. Thank you!
Thanks for posting this! This is exactly what I was looking for, for my 1970 Cutlass and my Sniper system. No longer will I have a mess of wires going to the factory fuse box. Thanks again and keep up the great work!
Glad the video helped!
How’s your sniper system running on your 1970 Cutlass? Helping a friend get his started soon with super sniper installed.
@@cutoversoldspartsguys3377 It is going pretty well. I have the Hyper Spark and Ignition Coil and Box installed. I am having issues with a little electromagnetic interference within the engine bay, but still trying to sort that out. But overall, still liking the Sniper system. Hope your is going well!
I know this is old, but I Amin the process right now of doing this to my new side x side. I’m tired of adding, and adding, twisting, bending for additional accessories. Install this set up and make the rest of you life with that vehicle much easier!!
PS, I’m sure you don’t have a 6awg crimper, but a little ingenuity with a couple metal cut offs in your vice maybe? Kind of shocked you didn’t crimp it.
Also, for others, PROTECT those wires! Cut a piece of fuel line length wise and slide it on the cable at zip tie and sharp edge points!
You’d be shocked how quickly it can rub through and short out.
Loved the video, real man job.
This video is huge for what im trying to do!! I was using a push button to turn on all my accessories vs when i turn on my key on my 54 New Yorker. Ty
Thanks for the info on this. I came up with the same concept in my head, but wasn't sure where to start with getting the parts needed. This was a big help.
This is hands down the best explanation for this process. Benn doing so much research on this, and you answered every question I had. Someone gutted the wiring in my 1982 Dodge B250 before I bought it and got in running again, and I plan to do this exact setup in it to power some interior lights and my sound system. Thanks!
Glad it was helpful!
This is one of THE best videos I've watched in awhile. I love how you explain things and I enjoy your sense of humor.
I watched the same xplanation of another host it was really confusing you made it much much clearer with the mock setup u did thanks much I need to install another keyed fuse block for my 65 gto this really helps
Dude you're freaking awesome and a hellava teacher. You rock bro!!!
Very helpful video. I wanted an easy way to power led pods as well as amber flashers for my truck, but the 04 Silverado’s battery is awful for adding accessories to. This is a fantastic solution.
Thank you so much and glad I came across with your set up and this is what I need for my aftermarket powered seats and windows. So much easy to follow. Thank you so much.
You are very welcome! Make sure you size the wiring and fuses properly and you will be good to go!! Thanks for dropping in!!
thank you for a no bs guide on how to do this. love your commentary as well.
Glad you enjoyed the video!! Hope it helped!!
The best explanation on this subject so far! Thanks a lot and God bless you!
2 weeks straight watching videos. At first I couldn’t make heads or tails of this one. After watching 20+ videos and coming back to yours it all makes sense. Yours is definitely the best one and very descriptive. Thank you. On a side note why is it always ready to rain or bad weather when you all make these videos 😅
LOL .. Its Tennessee for ya. It can be clear one moment and crazy weather the next. I don't remember which video it was but on day one there was like 3" of snow, the next day was t-shirt weather and the snow was melting. Glad the video helped you and you liked it so much!!
I want to know what gauge wire did you use for the 85 input on the relay? It was yellow before then after it was red.
THANKS SO MUCH, I WAS KINDA ALWAYS PUT OFF BY DOING ANYTHING 12V, BUT I FOLLOWED YOUR VIDEO AND IT WORKED OUT PERFECT! THANKS HEAPS FROM AUSSIELAND.
Seriously the best video on the internet
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!!
I needed this video to figure out another Fuse block for my camaro and you explained it perfectly. 10:10 was hilarious
LOL .. Glad you enjoyed it and also happy that the video helped. Thanks for dropping in a great comment!
Great explanation on exactly how and why the fuse block works! Step by step instructions were very clear and concise! Thanks!
New subscriber!!🔥🔥🔥 the first channel to really explain it and show everything. Everyone else half way explain it.
Holy crap, i needed this so bad man. You did an awesome job on this video. Im wiring in an Aux fuse block into my truck, and this is gunna help a lot
Glad the video helped you!!
I have a question. I want to make this system from scratch and not tap into a fuse block to kick on the relay. Can that trigger wire just come back to the positive side of the battery on a switch instead of using the key? Thanks hope it made sense lol
I've seen installs with one relay per accessory, this high current relay setup is so much better
There are times for each type of circuit. If you want to control accessory circuits individually, one relay per accessory is needed. If you want several small circuits to be activated when you turn the key on. This video will get that done. Its all about what you want controlled and how.
@@Poweraddicts yeah my bad, might just want one thing controlled by a sensor. So can leave that on this high current relay, than have another relay for its specific function right?
Thanks for much you’ve just solved a head ache I’ve had all day how to hook up a switched fuse box only to work when ignition is on
You are welcome! Glad the video helped you.
I appreciate the video
This is going to work perfect for rzr Right now I got about 24 wires going to three different post on the outside of the firewall
I can Barely get the nut on the terminal
Great job of explaining
Hope it works out well for you! Thanks for taking the time to leave a great comment!
Thanks a million, Chuck. I don't have the time at the moment to watch the whole video but will be back tonight. I'm doing a frame off on the YJ right now. I threw the dash and all the wiring as they were so hacked up from the PO. Flat dash and complete new wiring of my own. Also a 5.2 Dodge. I had not thought of the separate block for the switch on for the lite circiuts. Perfect.
Very informative, and entertaining as well (I enjoyed your voice inflections).
Glad the video helped you and you enjoyed my randomness :-)
When you tapped into the fuse block for the switch what if you don’t have a open spot how do you determine which port and size fuse for the fuse tap?
Thank you for sharing. Very good since I'm adding to my Honda 04 shadow 750 cams and in addition USB to charge my cell phone. Very good info.
Regards,
The Ghost 👻
I think what you are doing with the crimps works good with the tool you are using. But, if you have an AMP crimper, or similar, the split on the lug goes the other way. These crimpers sort of roll the split into the wire deformation area. This is not an issue in your application. I have 94 Sahara, Your videos are very thorough and informative, thanks.
Thanks so much for this video. You have given me so much help to solve so many challenges with my 89 Jeep YJ overhaul.
You are welcome! Glad the video helped!
Man I didn't this was so easy. Thank you for making this. I'm going to do the same.thing for my truck.
Glad it helped
Just found your channel and 30 seconds in I sub.
I gotta a lot of things to work on and I sure this is the info I need
Great video
You’re videos are awesome! Thank you so much. This is perfect for my 53 Chevy bel air. I Have everything wired to my key switch. This helps out, on how to take the load off it... god bless you.
Thank you very much and you are very welcome! May God bless you as well! 🙏
*Wait so how big do i need of a Main Fuse to protect my wiring? Im a bit confused, If i have a fuse block with 5x 15amp fuses = 60 i need a 70 or 80 amp main fuse?*
Great job, you earned a new subscriber!
As always you set the bar high for those wishing to provide DIY videos - MERRY CHRISTMAS 2020
Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year to you! Naw man, it ain't about setting any kind of bar. Just create videos that help people and be proud of what you do!
Being a retired industrial maintenance technician, solder is only for circuit boards components.
I would use marine grade wires and marine grade heat shrink with e-grease and a feral
If you put an infrared camera on you solider points you will see what I am trying to show you.
For some reason, I got a habit of soldering almost everything (not really a good habit). I guess it's the many years of doing PC board work 🙄. All the components at work (air handlers, motor-driven chiller water pumps, etc.) all have screw-style lugs and even some with ferals. So, I know you are correct. I've had to repair connections after electrical inspectors come through finding issues. Where I work would let me sign one out to borrow at home. That would make a very interesting video. I'll have to demonstrate to show the difference.
Lol im doing this exact same setup! I just ordered all my stuff and figured id see if anyone had a youtube video...and here you are lol
It is a really handy set-up. I have used it several times now since installing it. Glad you enjoyed the video and it helped you!!
I love this video. Perfectly explained to people like me who only have a primitive knowledge on auto electrical. I was wondering on the relay you didn't use an add a fuse just went right into the radio terminal. Why? I understand it's a 120amp but what would be the minimal to close the relay to make the circuit complete
Was wondering the same
To trigger a relay it takes so little amperage that a fuse isn't needed.
Great Video mate!! Well done! I was searching the net how i can add an extra fuse box to my car so i can power my interior lighting, dash cam & get some more ports for mobile phone charging and your tutorial came up! Finally i end up adding two additional fuse boxes😅.
Only one question if i may.. In which block should i connect my dash cam? I got confused cause the hard wire kit has 3 cables. Black for GROUND, Red for BATTERY & Yellow for ACC. You see, i want to be able to rec at night when the car is parked.
Thanks in advance for your reply & keep the good work going.
Can you please explain the relay wiring. I think one of the smaller wires is to ground and the other is to the fuse box
Yes. The black wire coming off the relay will be grounded, the other goes to whatever switch source you want to tap. Find a fuse on your vehicles fuse box that turns on when the key is in the ignition or turned on, insert just a single fuse tap into that, which connects to your relay. You will obviously need to insert a new fuse into that fuse tap, and it really isn't going to matter what amp fuse you use. It's only mission is to allow current to that relay. Just pop in a 10amp and call it good (while also inserting the fuse you pulled to insert the tap... Into the tap).
The advantage here is that instead of adding a fuse tap for every accessory you add, you can just connect to your new switched fuse block. Simple, fast, safe, and clean.
@@NN13K0thank you so much for posting this info, i literally just finished wiring this setup and it wouldnt turn on . I used a fuse tap with dual fuse holders to tap into the airbag module 10a (acc switched) but i couldnt figure out why my new fuse box wasnt getting power so i popped in another 10a fuse and it worked! Thank you for this, since the vid doesnt explain regarding this.
Great video--thank you!! I am in the process of making this setup and using it on my custom van. SOO many accessories on it these two aux boxes will help. Can you tell me the gauge of the yellow wire that goes to the ignition on fuse? Thank you!
Thank you so much for this video. Extremely helpful. Following!
You are welcome, glad the video helped! Thanks for subscribing.
Here is a stupid question. You have 1. Only 1 fuse box. You have 6 fuse slots in that 1 box. You have a 15 amp, a 10 amp, a 20 amp, a 30 amp, 4 amp, and a 3 amp. Do you need a 90 amp fuse. Or a 30 amp fuse 1 foot from the battery? Do you add it all together? Or do you go based off of the biggest fuse in the box to dictate the fuse needed near the battery?
I need help on my audio led project. I have x2 6.5, x2 5.25 and x2 4x6 with twin blue led in each speaker.The 6.5 and the 5.25 are wired up with 14 gauge wire and the 4x6 with I think 18 gauge with 14 gauge from the battery and I’m trying to figure out how to connect from the battery to the fuse block from this video then out to 2 switches. The 6.5 and the 5.25 are my door speakers on one switch and the 4x6 are my dash speakers on the second switch.
Funny and cool abut that tin can speaks 😅, I actually had enjoyed the video, very informative. Thanks a lot.
this is a great presentation, great explanation, and demo thanks alot.
Glad it was helpful!
Been doing the whole amp/stereo, lightbars thing on my 2k jeep TJ also...You gave me a new Idea for running power to the 10 inch kicker sub I was given (atm its cords all over the back hahaha) plus Ive been thinking on new lightbar switches and various other ports...To bad about the CJ dash conversion its one of cool things about a YJ...would rather see a round headlight conversion grill cause square is just.....square
Did u run the ground from the relay to the fuse block ground ?
This is great for separating switched and constant power. Would you use dedicated relays for the different accessories as needed?
You can just keep the total load in mind to prevent adding too much to this added circuit.
Great video... Quick question, can you run the negative from the tru mode relay to the fuse block negative? It seems like I should be able to, but really new to wiring.
Rewiring my ute to put a fridge in the tub. Do you have a link for those 5v 2.1A plugs/sockets??
Great job on training
Very nice tutorial, thanks captain.
Glad you liked it! You are welcome!
Thanks for the video. I am adding accessories to my XJ and this was a big help. Can you please comment on why a person would go this route vs installing a block with several relays (as seen on other videos). I'd really appreciate it.
It depends on the situation. If you are switching several different accessories, you will need multiple relays. This set up in this video will supply voltage to different accessories but will be all switched on at once due to one relay.
Thank you so much!
This is the video I needed to see.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video, but i have a question. I’m switching from a mechanical fan to dual electric fans. The relay i have is from a Volvo which has 2 red wires to fan, 2 - 30 amp maxi fuses (1 for each fan) and 1 power wire. How should I run the 1 power wire?
Here's a quick question, most fuse blocks are rated at 100 amps total and 30 amps maximum per fused circuit. I am going to be running a 8 fuse block and a 10 fuse block. Would it be a good idea to feed them with a 80 amp resettable breaker ( to play it safe ) and 4 gauge wire or maybe 8 gauge for the input? The 8 fuse block will have a less than 2 foot run from the the 80 amp breaker and the 10 fuse block will have a 10 foot or less run from the same 80 amp circuit breaker these will both be fed off my main 250 amp breaker. I like to build my projects once and forget about them for lifetime service. I am in my mid 60's and constantly working on them is not the fun it used to be 😢.
Thanks I found this video it's very detailed! Im familiar with all wiring connection but not the calculations between amps, voltage and thickness of the wire. for example this 6way fuse block i want to connect 2 sets of led fog lights and one small Bluetooth amplifier stereo system . does 80amp relay and 30amp fuse inline with 8ga powe wire would be fine for this set up ?
I have a question. I'm running a secondary battery. the second battery is going to be connected directly to the alternator with an isolator. can i run your fuse block setup you have here off that second battery? Im wondering if the switched power wire will be interference?
I'm just tackling this just with my ‘74 Chevy K10 rebuild; great instructional video!
Is there a follow on with attaching accessories? I'd like to see how you added accessories for each hot/switched fuse block.
I haven't created any videos attaching accessories. If you wants a switched circuit, attach it to the switched block. Full time hot accessories like the radio memory attach to the non-switched block. All your grounds go to chassis.
You size the wire for the load. You size the fuse for the wire.
Yes you are absolutely correct. In my rush in getting this done I went totally off track on that.
As nother great video.my fuse block is inside of my lockable,weatherproof center console,with my radio
Hello Greg install video. Looked at numerous videos on UA-cam but I keep coming back to yours. You make the install look easy enough for me to do it. I need something like this for my accessories. I have a DashCam, emergency lights and power fold tow mirrors. Will the 120 amp relay be adequate enough? Thank you for your help. Also just subscribed
Simple and well explained. Thank you
You are welcome! Glad it was helpful.
Thank you !!! I have a jeep and finding switched power is. P.I.A this will help so much
You are welcome! It has made life much easier in my rig!!
@Poweraddicts finding switched power on a 2018 jeep is super hard. But with this way shoupd be easier. Again ty so much!!
Can i use an add a fuse instead of that blue wrapped red cable you plugged into the radio port to trip the relay for the box that is ignition activated?
You can if you want.
I’ve tried to find all the materials you used because that’s what I need exactly but I can’t find the link to them
So the gauge wire you used for key power (86)doesn’t have to be as big 30 and 87 I’m little confused about that.
Dude you are the MAN!
Thanks!! Glad you enjoyed the video!
What was the red wire with blue that went into the car fuse box was it just a spade connector thanks
Nice instructional video… my XJ has no room under the dash to mount the fuse blocks, some nice room in the engine bay on the firewall right behind the AC evaporator… I would like use industrial grade 3M double sided tape to mount the fuse blocks… the fuse blocks could now be exposed to engine heat and the occasional engine bay wash… any recommendations or opinions?
Smart to add the info on a larger gauge alternator cable. Even on a factory spec alternator it’s never a bad idea to do it.
Any customer I have that comes in I usually recommend adding it to any repair I’m doing. You can’t forget “The Big 3” too.
Is there some reason you wouldn't use a 120 amp breaker that can be reset rather than fuse that would need to be replaced?
In general, fuses hold up better than breakers as there are no parts that can become faulty. Yeah it's a pain in the ass to have to replace the fuse, but it's better than a breaker not working when it should and potentially starting a fire.
I totally agree with Diego. Just keep extra fuses. If you blow a fuse ... figure out why. Thanks for dropping in!!
I want to add one accessory fuse box for leds and such, if I have it connected from the battery, will it drain my battery when lights are not in use? Sorry if it's a stupid question.
Nope .. its a very good question. If you put the LEDs on the "switched" circuit it shouldn't drain your battery. If you wire the "constant on" fuse block you will have to add switches to your LEDs to prevent draining the battery. Hope this helps!!
@@Poweraddicts thank you, it does help.
Awesome tutorial. I feel much more confident now about what I need to do. This may be a "it depends" answer, but will that switched fuse block maintain 12V when cranking as you have it wired there?
You basically have 2 types of "hot" circuits. Full time hot (active 12 volts no matter the key position) and switched on "hot" when cranking and running. The fuse block typically has both types of "hot" circuits .. full time 12 volts and 12 volts when key on (cranking and running). So .. with that being said .. yes the way I wired mine the switched fuse block has 12 volts both cranking and running, but NOT with the key off.
To all of you who are going to nick pick my reply ... in some cars (not YJs) .. yes there is a hot when only cranking .. an a hot when only running. That doesn't apply here so I wasn't going to make it confusing.
Great video ans very helpful.. I just have a question, do i need to put a fuse for the wire that is going into ignition.. thank you
It only takes a few milliamps to trip that relay. If you want to put a fuse inline you can use a 5 amp and that would be more than enough.
@@Poweraddicts thank you so much
I know this video is super old but im working on doing some wiring on my police interceptor and this video has EVERYTHING i need in it you sir deserve kudos this video is AMAZING. quick question, no loctite or thread holder on the main inline fuse holder in the engine bay? Seems like those lug bolts will come loose eventually?
Nope, I used no thread locker at all. I've never had an issue with it coming loose.
Really enjoyed watching this video 😊
I'm installing LED lights around the van, light bar & work lights. Other videos create a relay fuse box for each light.
Does your split with one big relay, relieves me from doing that? Or do I still have to relay every channel on the secondary fuse box?
Ty :)
Well done. I’m a real new to this. I fully get the video. My ignorance is how do I say wire my led accessory lights with google switch to this switched fuse panel
Great video , answered all my questions
Glad I could help
Thank you brother! Liked and subscribed!
You are welcome! Awesome and thank you for subscribing!
Great video. You did a super job in explaining and showing how this system can be built and used. I see you have one main 120 amp relay for the both the HOT and Switch fuse box. I am wondering if the 120 amp relay fails or malfunctions you would lose all power to the switch fuse box but the hot fuse box would remain hot. What reasoning did you use not to have a separate relay for each switch device? I suspect it was personnel choice and costs. I took a look at my four switch devices. (power window, AC and fans, heater and power seats). Since this circuit does not affect the engine operating circuits or brakes, these four devices won't matter if they were not operating. What is your point of view and opinion? Thank you
Great video exactly what I needed
Could I piggyback off of one of my switched 12v fuses with a add a circuit for my 12v switched source to the auxiliary fuse block?
Classic cars are so easy. The only source what need constant power are the hazard lights. Everything else can be triggered by ignition. Means also, safe of a lot of relays for each acc. As soon as the on off switch can handle the acc, there is no need for a relay
Hi, I am new to car electrical system. I am confuse about how it works. My understanding is a battery has a positive and a negative terminal which is color coded red and black in most cases. I understand the hot wire concept but when you connected the black wired "Ground" to the metal part of the car which is fine. But where is the negative going back to the battery? Doesn't the fuse needs box needs the negative terminal connected to it too like the red wire? I am working on my car (toyota celica) and it feels that black wire is not needed only hot wire.... This in my head doesn't make sense. I am looking at a very simplistic way. An AA battery to turn on a light needs positive and a negative connect directly but this is not true? where is the negative terminal actually connected to within the car? Could you explain this? It feels that everything within the car is a sequential connection positive connected to a negative and a negative to a positive until it reach the battery... is this a correct assumption? I have decided to add a fuse box like your so that I can expand if needed but again I am confuse with the negative terminal. Where or how should it be connected to?
I have a question. Instead of tapping into a fuse block to kick on the relay. Can that trigger wire just come back to the positive side of the battery on a switch instead of using the key? Thanks hope it made sense lol
Sure, You can switch it anyway you want. I used the fuse block just so I didn't have to use another switch. Hope that helps!
I would like to add some LD light strips to the headlights switch on a 92 YJ. Can you let me know how to do this. Thanks
This is a dumb question- but how are the switches connected to the fuse bock? Are they piggybacked to the yellow wire?
Can you send me a link if you have available, how to create an aux. fuse box for a motorcycle. In my case I have a Honda 04, shadow vt750c.