Thank you! My convection blower wasn't working and I was all set to pay $150 for a new one. I built a test cord and checked it, and it was fine. I used your other video to make a bypass cord and check the low limit switch, and that was the problem. A new one is on the way and I am cautiously optimistic that it will fix the problem. Thanks again!
No good!?! The convection blower worked with the bypass cord. However, when I installed a new switch the blower would not turn on at all. I waited quite a while until the switch got over 150 degrees as measured with an IR thermometer. Now I don't know what to do?
I also checked the old, presumed bad switch by connecting it to an ohmmeter. It initially read "-1" or no reading. When I heated it with a heat gun, it almost right away went up to 2.5 and stayed there with only a tiny click. After cooling, it was back to "-1". Maybe the swtich wasn't bad? How could the jumper cable make the convection fan work if the switch wasn't the problem?
Since I just figured it out, I'm replying to my own comment in case anyone in the same boat needs some guidance. My problem was NOT the convection motor, or the limit switch. I needed a better cleaning!!! I usually clean out the ports, but not the tunnels between them. The limit switch sits on one of these tunnels and all the buildup prevented heat from getting to the switch to trigger it. When I cleaned it out, the switch triggered in about 5 minutes. Now I have a new switch that I didn't need, but I figured it out.
@@kkeduda Thanks so much for your messages; apologies on the delay. Excellent troubleshooting work cleaning out those tunnel areas. I'm sure you also notice better overall air flow now as well. You should be able to return that switch unless you want to keep as a spare. Really appreciate you sharing this with us and the community - I'd bet it will most certainly help others. Greatly appreciated!
My englander started giving me issues two months ago ... i had to replace the exhaust fan and then the lower auger motor blew. your videos helped me SO much. Thank you.
So glad to hear they were helpful Jason! Any questions down the road just let us know, always happy to help. Here is our Englander parts page in case you ever need reference down the line. pellethead.com/?s=englander Appreciated!
Apologies on the delay Jessica. Just depends what the lead wire spade connections are from the motor. Some are male, some are female, some are 1 of each. Doesn't matter which wire lead goes to which on the motor, just want to match up those spade connectors to what the motor has. Hopefully that helps, any other questions please let us know. Thanks!
I have a Harman Accentra, how much should the intake flapper open when combustion fan is running? I have a flame that is tall and lazy and suspect the combustion fan motor.
Hey William, thanks for contacting us. Definitely sounds like there is a fuel to air ratio issue going on with your Accentra. The intake flapper does not open fully in operation - I would say it's generally 1/4 to 1/2 open during operation. If you have fresh air intake flex on the stove, that flapper should be completely removed. You can check the voltage on your combustion fan - should be near line voltage during start-up. Ash build-up and blockage would be the number 1 cause for the fire you are seeing. Make sure you've checked the following. - Burnpot Holes - Inspect closely and make sure they are all open - Burnpot Cleanout - Front cover access port - Fully cleaned out. - Door gasket - Sealing tight all the way around. - Remove the plate behind the ash pan and check the combustion fan paddle and exhaust throat for any obstructions. - Exhaust venting checked and cleaned - Rear Heat Exchangers checked and cleaned. Keep us posted, happy to help. We offer every part for the Accentra and guarantee the best prices. Thanks again, Mr. Pellethead
Thank you Earth Sense for replying. I thoroughly cleaned out the entire stove especially the areas you suggested. My flapper is opening a 1/4 to 1/2" max and the flame does not change when I open it fully. I will measure voltage next. Mean time applying penetrating fluid to fan lock screw, maybe it'll come off without having to cut the driveshaft.
@@deepcjseven OK, yes the combustion air issue is elsewhere. Let us know when you get a voltage reading. Yes, WD40 or PBblaster is great to soak into that lock screw. Heat can also be really beneficial in getting that to move - if you have a pencil torch, heat it up a bit. Again, double check ash blockages in the areas I originally mentioned as well. Keep us posted!
@@deepcjseven Hey William, Amperage of motors will vary based on the brand and type. We often see those same ranges from .9 - 1.75 amp. For the most part we have not encountered issues with variances in motor amperage's. Often times the replacement motor is a different amperage than the original. As long as the RPM and voltage is the same, there shouldn't be an issue.
Thank you! My convection blower wasn't working and I was all set to pay $150 for a new one. I built a test cord and checked it, and it was fine. I used your other video to make a bypass cord and check the low limit switch, and that was the problem. A new one is on the way and I am cautiously optimistic that it will fix the problem. Thanks again!
Fantastic to hear - great job on your troubleshooting! Let us know how everything is working once you have the new switch installed. Thanks!
No good!?! The convection blower worked with the bypass cord. However, when I installed a new switch the blower would not turn on at all. I waited quite a while until the switch got over 150 degrees as measured with an IR thermometer. Now I don't know what to do?
I also checked the old, presumed bad switch by connecting it to an ohmmeter. It initially read "-1" or no reading. When I heated it with a heat gun, it almost right away went up to 2.5 and stayed there with only a tiny click. After cooling, it was back to "-1". Maybe the swtich wasn't bad? How could the jumper cable make the convection fan work if the switch wasn't the problem?
Since I just figured it out, I'm replying to my own comment in case anyone in the same boat needs some guidance. My problem was NOT the convection motor, or the limit switch. I needed a better cleaning!!! I usually clean out the ports, but not the tunnels between them. The limit switch sits on one of these tunnels and all the buildup prevented heat from getting to the switch to trigger it. When I cleaned it out, the switch triggered in about 5 minutes. Now I have a new switch that I didn't need, but I figured it out.
@@kkeduda Thanks so much for your messages; apologies on the delay. Excellent troubleshooting work cleaning out those tunnel areas. I'm sure you also notice better overall air flow now as well. You should be able to return that switch unless you want to keep as a spare. Really appreciate you sharing this with us and the community - I'd bet it will most certainly help others. Greatly appreciated!
Thank you
You're most welcome! If you need anything else just let us know. Thanks!
My englander started giving me issues two months ago ... i had to replace the exhaust fan and then the lower auger motor blew. your videos helped me SO much. Thank you.
So glad to hear they were helpful Jason! Any questions down the road just let us know, always happy to help. Here is our Englander parts page in case you ever need reference down the line.
pellethead.com/?s=englander
Appreciated!
Which wire do you put the female on and which do you put the male on?
Apologies on the delay Jessica. Just depends what the lead wire spade connections are from the motor. Some are male, some are female, some are 1 of each. Doesn't matter which wire lead goes to which on the motor, just want to match up those spade connectors to what the motor has. Hopefully that helps, any other questions please let us know. Thanks!
I have a Harman Accentra, how much should the intake flapper open when combustion fan is running? I have a flame that is tall and lazy and suspect the combustion fan motor.
Hey William, thanks for contacting us. Definitely sounds like there is a fuel to air ratio issue going on with your Accentra. The intake flapper does not open fully in operation - I would say it's generally 1/4 to 1/2 open during operation. If you have fresh air intake flex on the stove, that flapper should be completely removed. You can check the voltage on your combustion fan - should be near line voltage during start-up. Ash build-up and blockage would be the number 1 cause for the fire you are seeing. Make sure you've checked the following.
- Burnpot Holes - Inspect closely and make sure they are all open
- Burnpot Cleanout - Front cover access port - Fully cleaned out.
- Door gasket - Sealing tight all the way around.
- Remove the plate behind the ash pan and check the combustion fan paddle and exhaust throat for any obstructions.
- Exhaust venting checked and cleaned
- Rear Heat Exchangers checked and cleaned.
Keep us posted, happy to help. We offer every part for the Accentra and guarantee the best prices.
Thanks again,
Mr. Pellethead
Thank you Earth Sense for replying.
I thoroughly cleaned out the entire stove especially the areas you suggested. My flapper is opening a 1/4 to 1/2" max and the flame does not change when I open it fully. I will measure voltage next. Mean time applying penetrating fluid to fan lock screw, maybe it'll come off without having to cut the driveshaft.
@@EarthSense why 2 different motors with different amp ratings? Mine is 1.75 amp others have .9 amps.
@@deepcjseven OK, yes the combustion air issue is elsewhere. Let us know when you get a voltage reading. Yes, WD40 or PBblaster is great to soak into that lock screw. Heat can also be really beneficial in getting that to move - if you have a pencil torch, heat it up a bit. Again, double check ash blockages in the areas I originally mentioned as well. Keep us posted!
@@deepcjseven Hey William, Amperage of motors will vary based on the brand and type. We often see those same ranges from .9 - 1.75 amp. For the most part we have not encountered issues with variances in motor amperage's. Often times the replacement motor is a different amperage than the original. As long as the RPM and voltage is the same, there shouldn't be an issue.
Thanks man, although your fly is unzipped, and yes I was looking
Ha ha ha ha ha now thats funny.