Bota Bob thank you! I’m glad you liked it, I tried to make it as informative as I could by showing step by step because nobody else out there goes along step by step with you as they do it so I figured I’d make one. Thanks for the sub and the support! Hope your staying safe bob!
Nice work, great detail, and excellent filming. It's the best I've seen of this filter mod, which will surely make BX2370 ownership more pleasant. Subscribed.
Thanks buddy glad I could help! The fuel filter mod was one of the best upgrades I made to my bx. The 2nd id say is the 2” rear wheel spacers I added to the back for incredible stability. If you are on my channel and click on the “playlists” tab you’ll be able to find all the playlists Iv created for different category’s of things Iv done to my bx and with my bx. I do this so people can watch the videos that appeal to them most. 👍🏻
I finally did this 8 months after watching your vid. The brass vent nipple is a press-fit. I popped it it through the backside of filter housing and ran a 1/4-28 tap and a bolt with Blue Jesus to seal it. I had to keep my filter under frame because my cab heater hoses ate up most the real estate on that side of the frame. At least I have a valve and can visually see any water now.
I actually saw your post I think On a Facebook group! Looked really good man I’m glad to hear it all worked out. I figured that nipple had to be pressed in there once I turned it and nothing happened, great to know it comes out backside tho cuz I didn’t know that. I’m glad it worked out! I’ll be removing my nipple next fuel filter change 👍🏻
This is an excellent video...& I've just come into the house, with fuel lines disconnected, trying to sort out my own fuel supply issues which generated a number of questions about the true value of inline filters & why the genius's at Kubota don't fit separators as standard. Of all diesel engines I have ever worked on, there was always a clear bowl to see particles & water. You've explained the modification extremely well...& this is just a little extra.....but the real fun starts when there is an issue with the injection pump that everyone says has to go to "experts" to repair for hundreds of dollars or spend a thousand or two to buy a new one. I have a BX2200D & actually had a fault on injection pump, read stuff online but there was nothing of use, unlike your video. But...it is only a pump & if you have basic mechanical skills, you can strip, find the fault, buy the parts online & fix it yourself. Do a video on stripping & repairing an injection pump & you could probably get 3 million subscribers....but that's why every Kubota owner should have a separator filter & maybe you don't damage the injection pump.
Thanks man! Sorry I’m just now seeing your comment! As for the injection pump I plan to do a little modification to mine, I may do it this winter some time and if I do you guys will be able to see the injection pump more in debth. Iv never really heard of too many injection pump failures on Kubota engines specially these smaller 26hp and lower engines tho I have heard of the pump valve springs breaking tho it’s pretty rare and only when they have a considerable amount of hours on them. These pumps are pretty darn easy to work on tho I’m sure a lot of people think they are difficult. They are fully mechanical so there isn’t much too them. Stay tuned and maybe I can do a video on it sometime in the future! Thanks for watching and hope your mod went well!
Apologies, Biff. Yes, the parts are where you said they were but when I watched your video, it somehow skipped the beginning....but thanks for your reply....I've already ordered the filter &, oddly enough, I have just been through a nightmare with 2 tractors & both had water contamination....but that's another story. Excuse the long post here but some of it might be useful to you or one of your subscribers. Aside from the filter mod, I often see people asking for drawings, parts manuals or service / workshop manuals & I found that many are available online, if you look for them....from front loader, mower deck, rotavator, box blade & bush hog...I got all manuals online...& for free. On another note, I have done just about everything with fuel on my BX2200D. Draining the tank, replacing lift pump, replacing shut-off solenoid & even stripping the injection pump to components...then buy replacement parts & reassemble it all. I am no expert but when there is a fault.... I want to fix it without stupid costs from Kubota, so I buy most stuff from eBay......starter motor, water pump & more. Compared to Kubota, I've always found a cheaper source for parts from eBay & have them delivered to my door.....sometimes for 1/4 or 1/2 of what main dealer is asking. Yesterday, I ordered 2 shut off solenoids from someone in Huston (I am in NW Florida) & that single order quickly changed to an email conversation with someone in China, which is where most parts are made today. If you would like to know more, to pass onto your subscribers, get back to me. Via UA-cam.
Awesome man I appreciate the information for my viewers. I have been a long time user of eBay and buying parts cheap from there tho I still try to buy genuine Kubota parts from eBay if possible. The one reason many people go back and pay crazy prices from Kubota is because with out it the aftermarket parts could ruin their expensive tractor warentee and make it void so lord of guys will still buy parts from the dealer because of this.. However if your tractor is not under a warentee anymore like mine or yours then I feel eBay is def the better rout for most stuff.. I agree most things are made in China anyways but I still feel Kubota factory parts have better quality to them as I have used both but have also had success with non Kubota brand parts also so it’s all in what you want. On your fuel sounds like you need to run a diesel biocide additive for awhile which will keep the Algie down and slowly eliminate it; run it in anywhere your storing your fuel and if your not storing it then I would choose a differnt place to get your diesel cuz it sounds like they may not be changing/updating the filters on a regular basis. I’m glad you got everything you needed to do the mod, wish you the best of luck! Thanks for the comment 👍🏻
Protection! Protection my friend! Your water/fuel separator Is rather vulnerable! There are higher quality clamps available. Other than that. I enjoy your informative videos. I recently purchased a brand new Bx 23S. Keep them coming!
Thanks Chris glad you enjoy my videos man.. So far this filter has been there about half a year now and I have done a TON of work with my tractor.. from mowing to clearing land to moving logs and driving over dangerous areas and have yet to have a single issue with where this filter is mounted.. that's not saying something cant hit it but with the way I work and drive my tractor id have to say it would be very rare for something to hit it or break it unless your a very unlucky person haha. Congrats on your new purchase I bet your extremely excited! You picked a great machine and I know you wont regret it!. How long you got until its delivered? I heard everything has been very delayed since COVID. Thanks for watching!
Haha that's great to hear! Glad I can help, I agree the original design and filter was not a good one.. You will be MUCH happier with your tractor after you do this and much happier the next time you gotta change the fuel filter that's for sure!
The only thing I might have done a little differently, would to have use some bigger zip ties, and put the fuel line inside some Black Split Wire Loom Tubing for added protection. Thanks though, great video.Thumbs Up!! I definitely like the idea of adding a much better fuel filtering system, should have been done from factory, but guess they have to cut the cost where then can..
Thanks Paul! I agree, larger zip ties would be nice, I didn’t have any that day only those little ones so I just used what I had but plan to redo them this winter. Loom is also a great idea, I actually bought loom for the fuel lines but forgot to install it. Thanks for watching and your right it is deffinelty a worth wild upgrade. Diesels NEED fuel to have power, with low fuel pressure and fuel flow they will run terribly so it’s vital that a Diesel engine gets as much fuel flow as it can. Like you said.. Kubota shoulda done this from the factory 👍🏻
Thanks Scott, yes I agree, woulda been nice if they did, they do it on many other pieces of equipment with this same exact motor but didn’t do it on the BX for some reason.. I’m assuming because they were afraid there wasn’t gonna be enough space to get to it where it needed to be which is typically mounted to the side of the block on these engines but in the Kubota BX since there isn’t a ton of room between the block and the hood bonnet I’m thinking that’s why they scratched it on this model machine which is unfortunate
I absolutely agree with you! Hey I think Iv actually watched one of your videos about a year ago, I remember your user name. Not sure which video I watched but I def have seen one of your videos before. Hope your doing well!
Did something change in the last couple of years, because the part numbed you listed was for a Aipico (Aftermarket) part (on Amazon at least), not Kubota affiliated.
Yah I think by now the part number from Amazon may be different now. If you look around on eBay you should be able to still find the correct one. Best of luck!
I installed this update using the same filter as Biff. Simple and worth the benefit of not having to climb under thrice a year. The only issue I had was the breather port was not pressed in correctly, and was loose. Thus, diesel leak. Has anyone else had this problem? I repaired with Locktite 680, and is not leaking now.
Sorry to hear you got a bad filter housing Frank but I’m glad you like the mod! I have not seen this before so I don’t think it’s common but great idea fixing it with some loctite. Hopefully that does the job for you, I’m sure it will. 👍🏻
It appears as though you've created undo stress on your lift pump as you've removed the gravity feed directly from the fuel tank. Now the pump has to draw the fuel up from the new filter housing. It might work for awhile but not sure this would be recommended by Kubota. It all depends on the design and specs of the lift pump.
since the fuel tank is higher then the new mount job it will make little difference i never let my tank go below half, the more fuel in the tank the easier it will be for the pump to work.
This is true and holds same truth for my Cummins pickup truck where I installed a sump on the bottom of the tank and a performance lift pump. I never let the tank go below 1/4 to 1/2 as it helps to push the fuel through to the lift pump. Having more fuel equals more pressure but even with my tractor I and many others have had zero issues with this mod and have only seen benefits from stock. Tractor def gets better/more fuel now runs cleaner, seems to have more power and even with a very low fuel tank the lift pump has zero issues pulling the fuel to the injection pump.
Great video. Just curious why you left the other in line filter on if the purpose was to get rid of those in line filters? I did something similar to this on my BX a few years back. But replaced both filters with fuel water separator filters. I couldn’t keep my tractor running in the winter with those in line filters, even with diesel treatment. It’s better now, until it gets into the single digits. If anyone has any good tricks for keeping a BX running in the deep winter, let me know. I have tried just about everything.
Thanks man. I left the other inline filter in place because it’s just a secondary filter and never gives a home any problems.. having secondary filter is a good idea because if your lift pump fails it could send metal into your injection pump and destroy your injection pump so you should always have one filter that filters from your tank to your lift pump (this one does all the hard work and gets clogged the quickest which is why I changed it out) and then your secondary will go from the lift pump to the injection pump ans is only there to catch contaminants from your pump. Hope this helps, Thanks for watching!
Bill Silvers yah that’s a good idea.. but for me it wasn’t worth getting the welder out lol..plus I don’t ever plan on taking the filter housing off.. once it’s on its pretty much gonna stay there for life, only the bowl needs to come off. But that is a good thought tho. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Bill Silvers with a wrench.. the filter is mounted to the bracket and then the bracket is mounted to the loader frame.. if I needed to remove the loader frame I could just remove the bolt holding the filter bracket on with a wrench like I used when I installed the bracket.. Meaning I can leave the filter housing on the bracket and still remove it from the loader frame if need be. The filter housing itself should never have to come off of the bracket, not unless I bent or broke the bracket and needed to replace the bracket itself, know what I mean?
@@BiffsEquipment Yea,,, I wasint thinking on those lines. sounds better then digging out the welder, but I got 2 migs sitting out in the home shop and a stick under a bench. So they For me anyway, are always ready to go.
Bill Silvers nice man, yah I gotta get a Permanent station setup in my garage cuz it’s a pain setting it up every time you wanna use it. I just got limited space so I usually put it away when I’m done
Thanks for the shout out. The video was great, you gave nice clear instructions. You did a job installing the filter. If you remove the nipple, could get a plug that drives in (like a freeze plug) to block it off? BTW is your tractor missing a hose clamp on the fuel hose at the injection pump?
Tractor Tech thanks, no problem man. That nipple I’m hoping will just thread out of the housing and maybe I can find the right pitch bolt to put in its place, I havnt tested this yet tho. As far as the clamp missing, most of my spring clamps were black like the hoses so you prolly just couldn’t see it in the video. Thanks for watching man 👍🏻
Cody K I did try to un-thread it and it wasn’t wanting to come out, best to just leave it alone so you don’t create a leak. I may cut mine off and tap it out next time I have my assembly off as this is prolly the only way you can get rid of that ugly nipple 👍🏻
Great idea! Thanks for sharing. Did you torque the FEL mount bolt? Hopefully the fuel filters are easier to access on the B series or I'll be doing the same thing when mine shows up! ( Every day waiting for it to be delivered feels like an eternity!) On to the next one (binge watching b4 church)!
Your B series should already have the nice fuel bowl/water separator on it, so lucky you! Haha. But if it doesn’t be sure to let me know. The FEL bolt should be torqued to spec just like any bolt but I just get it “good-N-tight” Lol
@@BiffsEquipment I just got an update from the dealer. The tractor is almost fully assembled and he is waiting on the rear remotes and the snowblower. Sounds like the tractor should be 100% by Tues or Wed next week but the snowblower isn't scheduled to ship out until 10/11. I kinda splurged! I ordered the B2601 w/3rd function and dual rear remotes, wheel spacers, 55" front mounted snowblower, 60" grapple, SSQA pallet forks, top-n-tilt kit, 60" box blade, and 60" rotary cutter. You are spot on, I am excited! I put my order in on June 1st... somehow, it "fell through the cracks"... it is a long story but after reaching out to the President of the dealership, I have a new salesman and the whole package price dropped over $3k! Glad to hear that it will likely have a water separator! I've watched a ton of videos on the B2601 and haven't seen anyone do anything with the filters (except the guards sold by Paul & Kathy Short out of Newfoundland). I saw you mod your BX and think that was brilliant! I don't "need" the grapple or rotary cutter but hope to us them for small side jobs to kelp pay for the tractor. Also, side work was a driving factor to get the TnT kit for quickly adjusting the box blade! Well, I best get to work, I hope you have a great day!
Domenic Maiani wow man that’s insane! You sure did get a TON of amazing accessories with your tractor! More than I think most people would. That is awesome! Your gonna be set right up for any job you come across for sure. If you didn’t order pallet forks that’s about the only thing I didn’t see that you’d wanna get. Aside from that it looks like your covered! Haha. Glad to hear they adjusted the price for you after botching your first delivery 👍🏻
nice job. why not jus use the existing fuel filter extend the hose and with a self tapping screw screw the filter tot he side of the tractor where you use the existing clamps
Not sure what you mean. The way I did it in this video is the best and easiest way to do this mod. You won’t be able to get self tapping screws through the 1/2” thick frame rails
I’ve watched your fuel mod and was wondering if you ever were able to plug that top port on the fuel filter? If you did was it threaded, or how did you plug that port other then with a piece of fuel line and a bolt.
Thanks buddy! The bracket was made from 1/8” mild plate steel.. not aluminum.. you could use aluminum I suppose but would wanna use aluminum angle iron as bending aluminum like I did in this video with steel would likely cause the aluminum to stretch/crack and break before you even finished bending it to a fill 90 but you can certainly try it!
Not yet, I do want to revisit this soon tho, I’m thinking about drilling it out next time I do my fuel filter change and tapping it with a bolt with a brass washer to keep it sealed.. I agree the nipple looks ugly lol
Thanks man! I got the receiver hitch for the front off ebay, I may even start making my own some day to sell as there is really nothing to them. I think I paid $40 for it on ebay let me know if you find it! Sorry I'm just now seeing your comment.
My fuel pump is shot. After going through the hassle of pulling it out (seriously 2 different bolt sizes and inserted from the top not the bottom?!) I'd love to put it in an easier to reach spot (since I've read that it's a common wear ite), like next to the new filter maybe just under the hood. Any input?
How many hours are on your bx? Typically the lift pump will last a very long time so I wouldn’t worry about re-locating it unless you really want to, but the lift pump needs to be close to the tank because the father you keep it from the fuel tank the harder it is for it to pull fuel through and to your injection pump (basically making it work harder) which will make it die faster.. my guess is your primary filter was clogged or in bad shape which possibly lead to an early lift pump failure do to it having to work twice as hard, if you do this filter mod and replace your lift pump you should be all set 👍🏻 keep me posted tho!
You can if you choose to but there really isn’t much point.. the lift pump lasts a very long time and it’s well protected where it’s at.. then you’d have to find a new place to re-mount it too plus you want to keep the lift pump closest to the fuel tank as possible otherwise moving it farther away makes it not only work harder but makes it wear out much faster because if it.. so it’s best to just leave it where Kubota placed it. Great question tho 👍🏻
I think I listed everything I used in the very intro of the video when I was going through each item you would need for this modification.. it’s really simple so you don’t need much. I know I also gave the part number to the filter housing I used as well. Let me know if you can’t find it and I’ll try and find it for you. Thanks for watching!
I have a B7500 so my question may not be related. What does the lift pump have to do with the fuel filter? I would like to retrofit a better fuel/water separator on my tractor so it has a simple water drain. My tractor has a much better way to change filters than your original set-up, but is still messy.
Hey Dave, that’s great that the B7500 has an actual fuel bowl.. if you wanted a petcock/drain on the bottom of the bowl you’d either have to drill and add one to your original fuel bowl or go with a differnt style fuel bowl but you’d more than likely have to build a custom bracket for the new bowl to get it mounted properly. The reason I mentioned the lift pump in this video is because the filter we were replacing was the filter BEFORE the lift pump.. and because it’s the primary Filter (first filter to do any work) it often gets clogged the easiest or is the culprit to causing issues when it gets clogged.. if this filter gets clogged it can also damage your lift pump because it will make the lift pump work harder to suck the fuel through it.. this is why it’s important to have a good filter setup before your lift pump and the one that comes on this tractor was not.. it was just a cheap inline filter which clogged all the time.. once it’s replaced on this machine you will have longer filter life, longer lift pump life, and a happier running engine. It’s important to also have a secondary filter AFTER the lift pump.. this way if the lift pump itself ever breaks down or starts to fail it won’t send the pump material through your injection pump.. this is where the secondary filter comes into play.. (The small in line filter that I left in place) this filter is okay being a cheap inline filter as it does a LOT less work than the primary.. so having a good primary filter/fuel bowl and a cheap secondary is def good enough for nearly any machine.
Hey Steve, that’s great to hear, you’ll love the improvement it’s gonna make! As for the plug I tried to remove the factory nipple but they have like a pipe sealant on it and I couldn’t tell if it was threaded in or pressed in, I got it to turn finally but it wasn’t coming out so I was afraid of having it leak so I left it alone once I turned it and it didn’t come out, luckily it never ended up leaking on me so I would say don’t try to remove the nipple to be on the safe side, just cap the end of the hose and call it a day, doesn’t look as nice but it is hardly noticeable honestly. Hope this helps!
Question for anyone else with this same fuel filter assembly. Same one we have on one of the M5700s we have. It looks like there are two "Open" positions on the filter assembly.. one at the 9 o'clock position, and one straight up.. with "Off" all the way to the right at the 3 o'clock position. Is there some difference in the two "Open" positions? Is one a "by-pass"? Thanks in advance!
I believe the other "on" port would either be a bypass or possibly for a reserve tank if you had a reserve tank hooked up to it just like on ATV's and motorcycles.
So Biff, we only have to take off the filter and clean it from water/ etc… each time or we should replace the whole filter ($80) for a filter each time? I’m just confused, will be great if u answer me. Thanks
What type of fuel separator did you get? If you got one of the ones I listed in this video then you’ll be fine. Just put it in the same location I did and it fits perfect. I have never once hit it on something and I have done a crazy amount of work with my Bx since installing this. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Hey buddy long time no talk! Hope all is well man, I’m pretty sure at the beggining of this video I go through all the part numbers for all of the housings you can use for this mod as well as the housing part number that I used as well as the filter. Let me know if you can’t find it. Should be right in the intro when I’m going through what you need to compete the modifications.
Maybe I am missing some thing here. Why didn't you just remove the factory filter behind the fuel pump and replace it with the brass fitting like you did. Then just use the hose already on the other end of the fuel pump that runs to the the front filter. Remove the hose from the front filter and connect the hose from the pump to the inlet and run a short hose from the outlet back to the front filter. Instead of running a hose from the back of the tractor to the new filter inlet and another hose back to the fuel pump again?
Herm Zinn because you still want to run that secondary filter at the engine, you don’t want to delete both filters.. one filter is for the lift pump the other filter is for the injection pump.. this is why you install the brass fitting where the old filter was and run a new line to your new filter.. then back to your lift pump so that your lift pump can then pull the fuel from the new modded filter and push it through the secondary injection pump filter:. If I was deleting both inline filters then I would have done exactly what you said here.. but since you wanna keep that I like filter before the injection pump this is the way you want to rout it
Basically the lift pump needs its own filter, and the injection pump needs its own filter. Since most the issues with clogging and gelling happened to the (Primary) inline filter for the lift pump with the fuel going straight into it from the tank; We replace the OEM inline filter with an aftermarket high quality filter/water separator. So now our new upgraded filter takes over the primary filtering but it's able to handle much more volume, have better flow, and is also able to do water separation to boot. You still want to leave the inline filter installed before the injection pump tho to act as the secondary filter as i said before.. but since the fuel is already being filtered once before it gets to the secondary filter it will always last much longer as its doing a lot less work than the primary. (This is why it's ok to leave the secondary OEM inline filter the way it is.) Also if you didn't run a filter before your injection pump and your lift pump began to fail it could send metal particles through your injection pump destroying it... Hope this helps, I didn't feel I quite explained it well enough before.
Hey Stanly, sorry im just not seeing this! I chose Kubota for many different reasons, they sell quality products, they manufacture their own engines and trans and build/match them specifically for each model machine they drop them into. That along with great customer service, warrantee and a good price on top of it. The John Deere 1025r and 1023e are also amazing little tractors.. New Holland 25s is also great. It mainly comes down to what you want to spend and what you feel fits you better and for your given application. Hope this helps!
I actually had the Part# written down at some point but lost it. You should be able to get them right off ebay, I would call your local Kubota Dealer with the part number of the filter housing that i give in this video and tell them you need the fuel filter that goes to that part #. Or get the Part# for the filter and search the Part# on ebay and it should come right up.
David Farber that’s a good question man. The upper inline filter near the engine should stay in place because it acts as a second filter before the injection pump on the motor. With out it you have no secondary defense for particles going into your injection pump if your lift pump were ever to fail
Hey Biff, sorry for this off-topic question but here goes: I've got a K 2370 and this looks like how I'd change the battery. You mentioned a battery maintainer and that's why I looked up your vid, because we are going to have below zero temps this week and I thought of putting a maintainer on it to prevent a dead battery. Supposed to get 12-24" of lake effect snow tomorrow. If I pull the grill and unstrap the battery, put a maintainer on it do you see any problem with leaving the maintainer connected but unplugged and the grill removed? That way I can plug it back in when done with snow blowing. BTW, I've got the anti-gel stuff in the diesel fuel. Does that make it easier to start in real cold weather? Just being lazy, I guess! LOL Thanks. Cheers, Bob (Syracuse, NY)
Hey man great question. So the maintainer I run I stick out of the side of the grill, I connected the leads to the battery and ran them out the side of the grill where the hood bonnet slides into it, this makes putting it back together a little more difficult cuz there is a wire hanging out the side but if you zip tie the wire well enough it won’t be an issue. Mine has been hanging out of the side of the radiator grill for years and from time to time I’ll plug it in. It’s ok to leave a maintainer hooked to it for any length of time because they will only charge the battery untill it’s full, once full the maintainer will go into like a stand by mode where when it gets cold and battery voltage drops it will reactive again and start slowly charging again so your good with leaving it connected anytime the tractor is not in use. Also it’s a great idea to run an anti gel in the winter time, you can never be too cautious and yes if it gets cold enough it will surely help it start easier. I also run an anti gel in the winter. Hope this helps man!
Basically all I have hanging out of the grill is the plug for the charger; then when I want to hook it up all I have to do is plug the charger into that little plug extension that’s hanging out of my grill guard. Next time I’m doing maintenance or something I’ll see if I can touch base on it for you
@@BiffsEquipment I've since got the cover off the battery. I had a helluva time trying to do it the other day, slicing my hand. LOL But when I went out to clear snow the other day, I sat down in the cab and noticed the cover is almost all the way out. I grabbed and lifted up and pulled, it came off. Removed the battery, and it's the original with the 2015 date on it. Attached the maintainer clips to the terminals and then wrestled with the rubber strap. LOL It was below zero and the K is in an unheated garage. Ran the wires along the floor and up behind the cup holder. The plug wire is out the bottom of the door. Plugged it in and it was charging. Next day, green to go. BTW, I've been using Howe's anti-gel since last winter. I let the engine warm up according to the Kubota manual, 10-15 minutes depending on the temp. Thanks for your help! Bob
I don't think my sales rep has a clue what he's talking about. He told me that the BX comes with this. Will this mod void my warranty? One more thing, do you have any experience working with the loader? Mine started squeaking every time I opened it along with twice now I've had to tighten up the connections because it started to poor hydraulic fluid...
Hey David.. yes I’m very experienced with the loader, the squeaking is prolly normal, mine squeaks also if you listen in some of my videos.. this is usually happens when you get behind on greasing .. grease all your fittings and work the loader in all functions after for a bit and see if it goes away.. it could also be because the pins are still very tight if it’s a new machine it may not be broken in yet. As for the fuel bowl.. the dealer is wrong, these tractors only have inline fuel filters, one primary and smoke secondary.. in this video I remove the primary and replace it with this fuel filter/bowl housing and leave the inline secondary filter as you still need a small filter to protect the injection pump. The secondary is never the one to give issues anyways it’s always the primary Inline filter that causes issues.. yes I Belive this will void warentee tho so you may want to hold off till your out of watantee but it’s best to show your dealer pictures or this video of the mod and ask if they would be picky about this if you use a genuine Kubota filter bowl as I did. Lmk how you make out! Oh and lastly.. hydraulic leaks are normal on a new machine.. go over each fitting with a wrench as they may be loose fork factory or often loosen up after the first 10-50 hours.. also keep checking your loader mount/frame bolts along with your lug nuts every 5 hours untill your reach 50 hours to be safe.. once you break your tractor in and re-tighten most of these once or twice they will never come loose again. Best of luck!
The point of the fuel filter mod is to get rid of the garbage in-line filter that Kubota has placed in a super inconvenient spot underneath the frame of the tractor.. but not only that the inline filter is also under sized for this machine.. because of that it clogs constantly, plugs up and makes you loose power.. it also freezes up often in the winter time because of its placement and low volume it can hold. Doing this fuel bowl mod not only gets the fuel filter out on the side of the frame where you can actually check on it and service it properly but it also has way more volume, doesn’t freeze or gel, has a much better/larger filter in it, and can be checked/drained easily for water or other contamination. It’s just all around better. Most Diesel engines this size will already have a fuel bowl on it from the factory.. even other equipment with this exact same engine.. but for some reason Kubota did not put one on the Bx (I’m assuming to save space) and it was nothing but a headache for the end user. So that being said I would highly recommend this mod.. this filter filters the fuel from the tank to your lift pump.. then between your lift pump and injection pump you’ll find a second inline filter which is up by the engine.. this filter can be left in place because it is only a secondary filter which catches whatever your primary doesn’t.. so because of this the secondary inline filter is not an issue like the primary inline filter was before the mod.
This is the second video of your I watched - great explanation for doing the fuel filter relocation - You have a new sub here - Keep Calm and Carry On
Bota Bob thank you! I’m glad you liked it, I tried to make it as informative as I could by showing step by step because nobody else out there goes along step by step with you as they do it so I figured I’d make one. Thanks for the sub and the support! Hope your staying safe bob!
The mindful homestead just promoted Biff's equipment. Great job Biff !
Thanks Todd, that was really nice of him!
Nice work, great detail, and excellent filming. It's the best I've seen of this filter mod, which will surely make BX2370 ownership more pleasant. Subscribed.
Thanks buddy glad I could help! The fuel filter mod was one of the best upgrades I made to my bx. The 2nd id say is the 2” rear wheel spacers I added to the back for incredible stability. If you are on my channel and click on the “playlists” tab you’ll be able to find all the playlists Iv created for different category’s of things Iv done to my bx and with my bx. I do this so people can watch the videos that appeal to them most. 👍🏻
Great video, having no wielding equipment, this is the way to go.
Thanks buddy, I agree, it’s def the simplest way you can make one of these filter mounts no doubt. No welding required! Thanks for watching 👍🏻
I finally did this 8 months after watching your vid. The brass vent nipple is a press-fit. I popped it it through the backside of filter housing and ran a 1/4-28 tap and a bolt with Blue Jesus to seal it. I had to keep my filter under frame because my cab heater hoses ate up most the real estate on that side of the frame. At least I have a valve and can visually see any water now.
I actually saw your post I think On a Facebook group! Looked really good man I’m glad to hear it all worked out. I figured that nipple had to be pressed in there once I turned it and nothing happened, great to know it comes out backside tho cuz I didn’t know that. I’m glad it worked out! I’ll be removing my nipple next fuel filter change 👍🏻
This is an excellent video...& I've just come into the house, with fuel lines disconnected, trying to sort out my own fuel supply issues which generated a number of questions about the true value of inline filters & why the genius's at Kubota don't fit separators as standard. Of all diesel engines I have ever worked on, there was always a clear bowl to see particles & water. You've explained the modification extremely well...& this is just a little extra.....but the real fun starts when there is an issue with the injection pump that everyone says has to go to "experts" to repair for hundreds of dollars or spend a thousand or two to buy a new one. I have a BX2200D & actually had a fault on injection pump, read stuff online but there was nothing of use, unlike your video. But...it is only a pump & if you have basic mechanical skills, you can strip, find the fault, buy the parts online & fix it yourself.
Do a video on stripping & repairing an injection pump & you could probably get 3 million subscribers....but that's why every Kubota owner should have a separator filter & maybe you don't damage the injection pump.
Thanks man! Sorry I’m just now seeing your comment! As for the injection pump I plan to do a little modification to mine, I may do it this winter some time and if I do you guys will be able to see the injection pump more in debth. Iv never really heard of too many injection pump failures on Kubota engines specially these smaller 26hp and lower engines tho I have heard of the pump valve springs breaking tho it’s pretty rare and only when they have a considerable amount of hours on them. These pumps are pretty darn easy to work on tho I’m sure a lot of people think they are difficult. They are fully mechanical so there isn’t much too them. Stay tuned and maybe I can do a video on it sometime in the future! Thanks for watching and hope your mod went well!
Apologies, Biff. Yes, the parts are where you said they were but when I watched your video, it somehow skipped the beginning....but thanks for your reply....I've already ordered the filter &, oddly enough, I have just been through a nightmare with 2 tractors & both had water contamination....but that's another story.
Excuse the long post here but some of it might be useful to you or one of your subscribers.
Aside from the filter mod, I often see people asking for drawings, parts manuals or service / workshop manuals & I found that many are available online, if you look for them....from front loader, mower deck, rotavator, box blade & bush hog...I got all manuals online...& for free.
On another note, I have done just about everything with fuel on my BX2200D. Draining the tank, replacing lift pump, replacing shut-off solenoid & even stripping the injection pump to components...then buy replacement parts & reassemble it all.
I am no expert but when there is a fault.... I want to fix it without stupid costs from Kubota, so I buy most stuff from eBay......starter motor, water pump & more. Compared to Kubota, I've always found a cheaper source for parts from eBay & have them delivered to my door.....sometimes for 1/4 or 1/2 of what main dealer is asking.
Yesterday, I ordered 2 shut off solenoids from someone in Huston (I am in NW Florida) & that single order quickly changed to an email conversation with someone in China, which is where most parts are made today.
If you would like to know more, to pass onto your subscribers, get back to me. Via UA-cam.
Awesome man I appreciate the information for my viewers. I have been a long time user of eBay and buying parts cheap from there tho I still try to buy genuine Kubota parts from eBay if possible. The one reason many people go back and pay crazy prices from Kubota is because with out it the aftermarket parts could ruin their expensive tractor warentee and make it void so lord of guys will still buy parts from the dealer because of this.. However if your tractor is not under a warentee anymore like mine or yours then I feel eBay is def the better rout for most stuff.. I agree most things are made in China anyways but I still feel Kubota factory parts have better quality to them as I have used both but have also had success with non Kubota brand parts also so it’s all in what you want. On your fuel sounds like you need to run a diesel biocide additive for awhile which will keep the Algie down and slowly eliminate it; run it in anywhere your storing your fuel and if your not storing it then I would choose a differnt place to get your diesel cuz it sounds like they may not be changing/updating the filters on a regular basis. I’m glad you got everything you needed to do the mod, wish you the best of luck! Thanks for the comment 👍🏻
Protection! Protection my friend! Your water/fuel separator Is rather vulnerable! There are higher quality clamps available. Other than that. I enjoy your informative videos. I recently purchased a brand new Bx 23S. Keep them coming!
Thanks Chris glad you enjoy my videos man.. So far this filter has been there about half a year now and I have done a TON of work with my tractor.. from mowing to clearing land to moving logs and driving over dangerous areas and have yet to have a single issue with where this filter is mounted.. that's not saying something cant hit it but with the way I work and drive my tractor id have to say it would be very rare for something to hit it or break it unless your a very unlucky person haha. Congrats on your new purchase I bet your extremely excited! You picked a great machine and I know you wont regret it!. How long you got until its delivered? I heard everything has been very delayed since COVID. Thanks for watching!
Just finished mine... Excellent video...
Thanks man, that’s great I’m glad it worked out for you!
Thanks so much for this video, It's going to make life a lot easier for and old fart who has such a problem with that original design!
Haha that's great to hear! Glad I can help, I agree the original design and filter was not a good one.. You will be MUCH happier with your tractor after you do this and much happier the next time you gotta change the fuel filter that's for sure!
The BX series in Australia comes with a built in loader locking function so it can’t fall if you do maintenance with it up.
Wow that’s very cool! Do you know if any videos on the Australia version?
Nice clean look wow.
nice work bud thanks for taking the time to show us.
Thanks dan! Was a pain to try to show every step with the camera as i went along but it was def worth it if it helps somebody. Thanks for watching!
The only thing I might have done a little differently, would to have use some bigger zip ties, and put the fuel line inside some Black Split Wire Loom Tubing for added protection. Thanks though, great video.Thumbs Up!! I definitely like the idea of adding a much better fuel filtering system, should have been done from factory, but guess they have to cut the cost where then can..
Thanks Paul! I agree, larger zip ties would be nice, I didn’t have any that day only those little ones so I just used what I had but plan to redo them this winter. Loom is also a great idea, I actually bought loom for the fuel lines but forgot to install it. Thanks for watching and your right it is deffinelty a worth wild upgrade. Diesels NEED fuel to have power, with low fuel pressure and fuel flow they will run terribly so it’s vital that a Diesel engine gets as much fuel flow as it can. Like you said.. Kubota shoulda done this from the factory 👍🏻
I liked this suggestion so much, I added 5/8 split loom after my install.
@@chiapet4444 Awesome! Wire loom will def help to protect the lines and keep them from chaffing. Glad it all worked out for you buddy.
Good job Biff.
Thanks buddy! Hope your doing well man!
Nice video, you'd think Kubota could have done that very thing in the first place.
Thanks Scott, yes I agree, woulda been nice if they did, they do it on many other pieces of equipment with this same exact motor but didn’t do it on the BX for some reason.. I’m assuming because they were afraid there wasn’t gonna be enough space to get to it where it needed to be which is typically mounted to the side of the block on these engines but in the Kubota BX since there isn’t a ton of room between the block and the hood bonnet I’m thinking that’s why they scratched it on this model machine which is unfortunate
I have a 99 b7300 I feel kubotas are superior in quality fit and finish are excellent
I absolutely agree with you! Hey I think Iv actually watched one of your videos about a year ago, I remember your user name. Not sure which video I watched but I def have seen one of your videos before. Hope your doing well!
Great job, I’m going to do mine!👍
Awesome! Let me know how it goes James!
I did the same mod on my Bx 23s, and it works great. Do you by chance have the replacement filter number?
Sorry just heard you put it on. Its been one of those weeks. Lol.
Did something change in the last couple of years, because the part numbed you listed was for a Aipico (Aftermarket) part (on Amazon at least), not Kubota affiliated.
Yah I think by now the part number from Amazon may be different now. If you look around on eBay you should be able to still find the correct one. Best of luck!
Hey,can i just delete the lower filter..and solve the problem of replacing it ?...and have only one filter?
I installed this update using the same filter as Biff. Simple and worth the benefit of not having to climb under thrice a year. The only issue I had was the breather port was not pressed in correctly, and was loose. Thus, diesel leak. Has anyone else had this problem? I repaired with Locktite 680, and is not leaking now.
Sorry to hear you got a bad filter housing Frank but I’m glad you like the mod! I have not seen this before so I don’t think it’s common but great idea fixing it with some loctite. Hopefully that does the job for you, I’m sure it will. 👍🏻
Actually this filter does not comme off that easy and you will probably finish this project cover with diesel…but this is worth it.😂😊
It appears as though you've created undo stress on your lift pump as you've removed the gravity feed directly from the fuel tank. Now the pump has to draw the fuel up from the new filter housing. It might work for awhile but not sure this would be recommended by Kubota. It all depends on the design and specs of the lift pump.
since the fuel tank is higher then the new mount job it will make little difference i never let my tank go below half, the more fuel in the tank the easier it will be for the pump to work.
This is true and holds same truth for my Cummins pickup truck where I installed a sump on the bottom of the tank and a performance lift pump. I never let the tank go below 1/4 to 1/2 as it helps to push the fuel through to the lift pump. Having more fuel equals more pressure but even with my tractor I and many others have had zero issues with this mod and have only seen benefits from stock. Tractor def gets better/more fuel now runs cleaner, seems to have more power and even with a very low fuel tank the lift pump has zero issues pulling the fuel to the injection pump.
Great video. Just curious why you left the other in line filter on if the purpose was to get rid of those in line filters?
I did something similar to this on my BX a few years back. But replaced both filters with fuel water separator filters. I couldn’t keep my tractor running in the winter with those in line filters, even with diesel treatment. It’s better now, until it gets into the single digits.
If anyone has any good tricks for keeping a BX running in the deep winter, let me know. I have tried just about everything.
Thanks man. I left the other inline filter in place because it’s just a secondary filter and never gives a home any problems.. having secondary filter is a good idea because if your lift pump fails it could send metal into your injection pump and destroy your injection pump so you should always have one filter that filters from your tank to your lift pump (this one does all the hard work and gets clogged the quickest which is why I changed it out) and then your secondary will go from the lift pump to the injection pump ans is only there to catch contaminants from your pump. Hope this helps, Thanks for watching!
I would have welded the Nuts for the filter hold down bolts so in the small possibility that the filter needs to be removed, I won't lose the nuts.
Bill Silvers yah that’s a good idea.. but for me it wasn’t worth getting the welder out lol..plus I don’t ever plan on taking the filter housing off.. once it’s on its pretty much gonna stay there for life, only the bowl needs to come off. But that is a good thought tho. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
@@BiffsEquipment OK, But how will you check and or retourg the secondary frame bolts without taking off the fuel filter bracket?
Bill Silvers with a wrench.. the filter is mounted to the bracket and then the bracket is mounted to the loader frame.. if I needed to remove the loader frame I could just remove the bolt holding the filter bracket on with a wrench like I used when I installed the bracket.. Meaning I can leave the filter housing on the bracket and still remove it from the loader frame if need be. The filter housing itself should never have to come off of the bracket, not unless I bent or broke the bracket and needed to replace the bracket itself, know what I mean?
@@BiffsEquipment Yea,,, I wasint thinking on those lines. sounds better then digging out the welder, but I got 2 migs sitting out in the home shop and a stick under a bench. So they For me anyway, are always ready to go.
Bill Silvers nice man, yah I gotta get a Permanent station setup in my garage cuz it’s a pain setting it up every time you wanna use it. I just got limited space so I usually put it away when I’m done
Thanks for the shout out. The video was great, you gave nice clear instructions. You did a job installing the filter. If you remove the nipple, could get a plug that drives in (like a freeze plug) to block it off? BTW is your tractor missing a hose clamp on the fuel hose at the injection pump?
Tractor Tech thanks, no problem man. That nipple I’m hoping will just thread out of the housing and maybe I can find the right pitch bolt to put in its place, I havnt tested this yet tho. As far as the clamp missing, most of my spring clamps were black like the hoses so you prolly just couldn’t see it in the video. Thanks for watching man 👍🏻
Wondering the same! Did you ever try? I just got mine, I don't want to try pulling it out to find that I ruined the assembly.
Cody K I did try to un-thread it and it wasn’t wanting to come out, best to just leave it alone so you don’t create a leak. I may cut mine off and tap it out next time I have my assembly off as this is prolly the only way you can get rid of that ugly nipple 👍🏻
Excellent
Thank you! Cheers!
Great idea! Thanks for sharing. Did you torque the FEL mount bolt? Hopefully the fuel filters are easier to access on the B series or I'll be doing the same thing when mine shows up! ( Every day waiting for it to be delivered feels like an eternity!)
On to the next one (binge watching b4 church)!
Your B series should already have the nice fuel bowl/water separator on it, so lucky you! Haha. But if it doesn’t be sure to let me know. The FEL bolt should be torqued to spec just like any bolt but I just get it “good-N-tight” Lol
PS. Def let me know when you get your new tractor, you must be so excited! Eventually I want to upgrade to a B-series myself 👍🏻
@@BiffsEquipment I just got an update from the dealer. The tractor is almost fully assembled and he is waiting on the rear remotes and the snowblower. Sounds like the tractor should be 100% by Tues or Wed next week but the snowblower isn't scheduled to ship out until 10/11.
I kinda splurged! I ordered the B2601 w/3rd function and dual rear remotes, wheel spacers, 55" front mounted snowblower, 60" grapple, SSQA pallet forks, top-n-tilt kit, 60" box blade, and 60" rotary cutter.
You are spot on, I am excited! I put my order in on June 1st... somehow, it "fell through the cracks"... it is a long story but after reaching out to the President of the dealership, I have a new salesman and the whole package price dropped over $3k!
Glad to hear that it will likely have a water separator! I've watched a ton of videos on the B2601 and haven't seen anyone do anything with the filters (except the guards sold by Paul & Kathy Short out of Newfoundland). I saw you mod your BX and think that was brilliant!
I don't "need" the grapple or rotary cutter but hope to us them for small side jobs to kelp pay for the tractor. Also, side work was a driving factor to get the TnT kit for quickly adjusting the box blade!
Well, I best get to work, I hope you have a great day!
Domenic Maiani wow man that’s insane! You sure did get a TON of amazing accessories with your tractor! More than I think most people would. That is awesome! Your gonna be set right up for any job you come across for sure. If you didn’t order pallet forks that’s about the only thing I didn’t see that you’d wanna get. Aside from that it looks like your covered! Haha. Glad to hear they adjusted the price for you after botching your first delivery 👍🏻
nice job. why not jus use the existing fuel filter extend the hose and with a self tapping screw screw the filter tot he side of the tractor where you use the existing clamps
Not sure what you mean. The way I did it in this video is the best and easiest way to do this mod. You won’t be able to get self tapping screws through the 1/2” thick frame rails
I’ve watched your fuel mod and was wondering if you ever were able to plug that top port on the fuel filter? If you did was it threaded, or how did you plug that port other then with a piece of fuel line and a bolt.
Great DIY! Is the metal bracket 1/8" aluminum?
Thanks buddy! The bracket was made from 1/8” mild plate steel.. not aluminum.. you could use aluminum I suppose but would wanna use aluminum angle iron as bending aluminum like I did in this video with steel would likely cause the aluminum to stretch/crack and break before you even finished bending it to a fill 90 but you can certainly try it!
Have you come up with a better option for closing off the top fitting? Great video
Not yet, I do want to revisit this soon tho, I’m thinking about drilling it out next time I do my fuel filter change and tapping it with a bolt with a brass washer to keep it sealed.. I agree the nipple looks ugly lol
Where did you get the front hitch base? (class 3?) , (nice video on filter add-on)
Thanks man! I got the receiver hitch for the front off ebay, I may even start making my own some day to sell as there is really nothing to them. I think I paid $40 for it on ebay let me know if you find it! Sorry I'm just now seeing your comment.
My fuel pump is shot. After going through the hassle of pulling it out (seriously 2 different bolt sizes and inserted from the top not the bottom?!) I'd love to put it in an easier to reach spot (since I've read that it's a common wear ite), like next to the new filter maybe just under the hood. Any input?
How many hours are on your bx? Typically the lift pump will last a very long time so I wouldn’t worry about re-locating it unless you really want to, but the lift pump needs to be close to the tank because the father you keep it from the fuel tank the harder it is for it to pull fuel through and to your injection pump (basically making it work harder) which will make it die faster.. my guess is your primary filter was clogged or in bad shape which possibly lead to an early lift pump failure do to it having to work twice as hard, if you do this filter mod and replace your lift pump you should be all set 👍🏻 keep me posted tho!
Why couldn't you move your lift pump along with the filter? Then you wouldn't have to have extra fuel line going back down under tractor.
You can if you choose to but there really isn’t much point.. the lift pump lasts a very long time and it’s well protected where it’s at.. then you’d have to find a new place to re-mount it too plus you want to keep the lift pump closest to the fuel tank as possible otherwise moving it farther away makes it not only work harder but makes it wear out much faster because if it.. so it’s best to just leave it where Kubota placed it. Great question tho 👍🏻
Do you have a list of the part numbers you used? That would be a great help because I want to do this mod.
I think I listed everything I used in the very intro of the video when I was going through each item you would need for this modification.. it’s really simple so you don’t need much. I know I also gave the part number to the filter housing I used as well. Let me know if you can’t find it and I’ll try and find it for you. Thanks for watching!
I have a B7500 so my question may not be related. What does the lift pump have to do with the fuel filter? I would like to retrofit a better fuel/water separator on my tractor so it has a simple water drain. My tractor has a much better way to change filters than your original set-up, but is still messy.
Hey Dave, that’s great that the B7500 has an actual fuel bowl.. if you wanted a petcock/drain on the bottom of the bowl you’d either have to drill and add one to your original fuel bowl or go with a differnt style fuel bowl but you’d more than likely have to build a custom bracket for the new bowl to get it mounted properly. The reason I mentioned the lift pump in this video is because the filter we were replacing was the filter BEFORE the lift pump.. and because it’s the primary Filter (first filter to do any work) it often gets clogged the easiest or is the culprit to causing issues when it gets clogged.. if this filter gets clogged it can also damage your lift pump because it will make the lift pump work harder to suck the fuel through it.. this is why it’s important to have a good filter setup before your lift pump and the one that comes on this tractor was not.. it was just a cheap inline filter which clogged all the time.. once it’s replaced on this machine you will have longer filter life, longer lift pump life, and a happier running engine. It’s important to also have a secondary filter AFTER the lift pump.. this way if the lift pump itself ever breaks down or starts to fail it won’t send the pump material through your injection pump.. this is where the secondary filter comes into play.. (The small in line filter that I left in place) this filter is okay being a cheap inline filter as it does a LOT less work than the primary.. so having a good primary filter/fuel bowl and a cheap secondary is def good enough for nearly any machine.
Hi Biff, thanks for your vid. I'm doing this on my BX right now. Did you find a plug for the top of the filter, if so was it an 1/8" pipe plug? Steve
Hey Steve, that’s great to hear, you’ll love the improvement it’s gonna make! As for the plug I tried to remove the factory nipple but they have like a pipe sealant on it and I couldn’t tell if it was threaded in or pressed in, I got it to turn finally but it wasn’t coming out so I was afraid of having it leak so I left it alone once I turned it and it didn’t come out, luckily it never ended up leaking on me so I would say don’t try to remove the nipple to be on the safe side, just cap the end of the hose and call it a day, doesn’t look as nice but it is hardly noticeable honestly. Hope this helps!
@@BiffsEquipment It was a press fit. I tapped mine out from the inside and drilled/tapped for a 1/8 pipe plug
Question for anyone else with this same fuel filter assembly. Same one we have on one of the M5700s we have. It looks like there are two "Open" positions on the filter assembly.. one at the 9 o'clock position, and one straight up.. with "Off" all the way to the right at the 3 o'clock position. Is there some difference in the two "Open" positions? Is one a "by-pass"? Thanks in advance!
I believe the other "on" port would either be a bypass or possibly for a reserve tank if you had a reserve tank hooked up to it just like on ATV's and motorcycles.
@@BiffsEquipment Thanks! I hadn't considered a reserve/alternate tank, but that makes perfect sense!
So Biff, we only have to take off the filter and clean it from water/ etc… each time or we should replace the whole filter ($80) for a filter each time? I’m just confused, will be great if u answer me. Thanks
Take off the bowl, drain and clean with kerosene, re-use
I got a fuel preperator im thinking about trying to put on it , its kind of big though ???
What type of fuel separator did you get? If you got one of the ones I listed in this video then you’ll be fine. Just put it in the same location I did and it fits perfect. I have never once hit it on something and I have done a crazy amount of work with my Bx since installing this. Hope this helps 👍🏻
Hey biff. Been a long time. Sorry. Had a question. Do you have the part numbers for the fuel filter upgrade
Hey buddy long time no talk! Hope all is well man, I’m pretty sure at the beggining of this video I go through all the part numbers for all of the housings you can use for this mod as well as the housing part number that I used as well as the filter. Let me know if you can’t find it. Should be right in the intro when I’m going through what you need to compete the modifications.
Maybe I am missing some thing here. Why didn't you just remove the factory filter behind the fuel pump and replace it with the brass fitting like you did. Then just use the hose already on the other end of the fuel pump that runs to the the front filter. Remove the hose from the front filter and connect the hose from the pump to the inlet and run a short hose from the outlet back to the front filter. Instead of running a hose from the back of the tractor to the new filter inlet and another hose back to the fuel pump again?
Herm Zinn because you still want to run that secondary filter at the engine, you don’t want to delete both filters.. one filter is for the lift pump the other filter is for the injection pump.. this is why you install the brass fitting where the old filter was and run a new line to your new filter.. then back to your lift pump so that your lift pump can then pull the fuel from the new modded filter and push it through the secondary injection pump filter:. If I was deleting both inline filters then I would have done exactly what you said here.. but since you wanna keep that I like filter before the injection pump this is the way you want to rout it
Basically the lift pump needs its own filter, and the injection pump needs its own filter. Since most the issues with clogging and gelling happened to the (Primary) inline filter for the lift pump with the fuel going straight into it from the tank; We replace the OEM inline filter with an aftermarket high quality filter/water separator. So now our new upgraded filter takes over the primary filtering but it's able to handle much more volume, have better flow, and is also able to do water separation to boot. You still want to leave the inline filter installed before the injection pump tho to act as the secondary filter as i said before.. but since the fuel is already being filtered once before it gets to the secondary filter it will always last much longer as its doing a lot less work than the primary. (This is why it's ok to leave the secondary OEM inline filter the way it is.)
Also if you didn't run a filter before your injection pump and your lift pump began to fail it could send metal particles through your injection pump destroying it... Hope this helps, I didn't feel I quite explained it well enough before.
Howd you get booted from OTT? Thanks for the vid!
Max Ball haha thanks max!
What made you choose kubota?🤔
Hey Stanly, sorry im just not seeing this! I chose Kubota for many different reasons, they sell quality products, they manufacture their own engines and trans and build/match them specifically for each model machine they drop them into. That along with great customer service, warrantee and a good price on top of it. The John Deere 1025r and 1023e are also amazing little tractors.. New Holland 25s is also great. It mainly comes down to what you want to spend and what you feel fits you better and for your given application. Hope this helps!
I've been looking for the cartridge filter replacement, can't find a part number anywhere. Do you know where to find them?
I actually had the Part# written down at some point but lost it. You should be able to get them right off ebay, I would call your local Kubota Dealer with the part number of the filter housing that i give in this video and tell them you need the fuel filter that goes to that part #. Or get the Part# for the filter and search the Part# on ebay and it should come right up.
Question, can you just take out the upper fuel filter and put in a double male fitting or does it need to stay in place?
David Farber that’s a good question man. The upper inline filter near the engine should stay in place because it acts as a second filter before the injection pump on the motor. With out it you have no secondary defense for particles going into your injection pump if your lift pump were ever to fail
Hey Biff, sorry for this off-topic question but here goes:
I've got a K 2370 and this looks like how I'd change the battery. You mentioned a battery maintainer and that's why I looked up
your vid, because we are going to have below zero temps this week and I thought of putting a maintainer on it to prevent a dead battery. Supposed to get 12-24" of lake effect snow tomorrow. If I pull the grill and unstrap the battery, put a maintainer on it do you see any problem with leaving the maintainer connected but unplugged and the grill removed? That way I can plug it back in when done with snow blowing. BTW, I've got the anti-gel stuff in the diesel fuel. Does that make it easier to start in real cold weather? Just being lazy, I guess! LOL Thanks. Cheers, Bob (Syracuse, NY)
Hey man great question. So the maintainer I run I stick out of the side of the grill, I connected the leads to the battery and ran them out the side of the grill where the hood bonnet slides into it, this makes putting it back together a little more difficult cuz there is a wire hanging out the side but if you zip tie the wire well enough it won’t be an issue. Mine has been hanging out of the side of the radiator grill for years and from time to time I’ll plug it in. It’s ok to leave a maintainer hooked to it for any length of time because they will only charge the battery untill it’s full, once full the maintainer will go into like a stand by mode where when it gets cold and battery voltage drops it will reactive again and start slowly charging again so your good with leaving it connected anytime the tractor is not in use. Also it’s a great idea to run an anti gel in the winter time, you can never be too cautious and yes if it gets cold enough it will surely help it start easier. I also run an anti gel in the winter. Hope this helps man!
Basically all I have hanging out of the grill is the plug for the charger; then when I want to hook it up all I have to do is plug the charger into that little plug extension that’s hanging out of my grill guard. Next time I’m doing maintenance or something I’ll see if I can touch base on it for you
@@BiffsEquipment I've since got the cover off the battery. I had a helluva time trying to do it the other day, slicing my hand. LOL But when I went out to clear snow the other day, I sat down in the cab and noticed the cover is almost all the way out. I grabbed and lifted up and pulled, it came off. Removed the battery, and it's the original with the 2015 date on it. Attached the maintainer clips to the terminals and then wrestled with the rubber strap. LOL It was below zero and the K is in an unheated garage. Ran the wires along the floor and up behind the cup holder. The plug wire is out the bottom of the door. Plugged it in and it was charging. Next day, green to go. BTW, I've been using Howe's anti-gel since last winter. I let the engine warm up according to the Kubota manual, 10-15 minutes depending on the temp. Thanks for your help! Bob
@@rvnmedic1968 sure thing man, glad it all worked out. That anti gel works wonders during cold winters! Stay safe!
I don't think my sales rep has a clue what he's talking about. He told me that the BX comes with this. Will this mod void my warranty? One more thing, do you have any experience working with the loader? Mine started squeaking every time I opened it along with twice now I've had to tighten up the connections because it started to poor hydraulic fluid...
Hey David.. yes I’m very experienced with the loader, the squeaking is prolly normal, mine squeaks also if you listen in some of my videos.. this is usually happens when you get behind on greasing .. grease all your fittings and work the loader in all functions after for a bit and see if it goes away.. it could also be because the pins are still very tight if it’s a new machine it may not be broken in yet. As for the fuel bowl.. the dealer is wrong, these tractors only have inline fuel filters, one primary and smoke secondary.. in this video I remove the primary and replace it with this fuel filter/bowl housing and leave the inline secondary filter as you still need a small filter to protect the injection pump. The secondary is never the one to give issues anyways it’s always the primary Inline filter that causes issues.. yes I Belive this will void warentee tho so you may want to hold off till your out of watantee but it’s best to show your dealer pictures or this video of the mod and ask if they would be picky about this if you use a genuine Kubota filter bowl as I did. Lmk how you make out! Oh and lastly.. hydraulic leaks are normal on a new machine.. go over each fitting with a wrench as they may be loose fork factory or often loosen up after the first 10-50 hours.. also keep checking your loader mount/frame bolts along with your lug nuts every 5 hours untill your reach 50 hours to be safe.. once you break your tractor in and re-tighten most of these once or twice they will never come loose again. Best of luck!
What's the point of this?
The point of the fuel filter mod is to get rid of the garbage in-line filter that Kubota has placed in a super inconvenient spot underneath the frame of the tractor.. but not only that the inline filter is also under sized for this machine.. because of that it clogs constantly, plugs up and makes you loose power.. it also freezes up often in the winter time because of its placement and low volume it can hold. Doing this fuel bowl mod not only gets the fuel filter out on the side of the frame where you can actually check on it and service it properly but it also has way more volume, doesn’t freeze or gel, has a much better/larger filter in it, and can be checked/drained easily for water or other contamination. It’s just all around better. Most Diesel engines this size will already have a fuel bowl on it from the factory.. even other equipment with this exact same engine.. but for some reason Kubota did not put one on the Bx (I’m assuming to save space) and it was nothing but a headache for the end user. So that being said I would highly recommend this mod.. this filter filters the fuel from the tank to your lift pump.. then between your lift pump and injection pump you’ll find a second inline filter which is up by the engine.. this filter can be left in place because it is only a secondary filter which catches whatever your primary doesn’t.. so because of this the secondary inline filter is not an issue like the primary inline filter was before the mod.
I used a racor it is much better.
Great to hear man