Darkmoon needs to make their Carbon Fiber and G10 plates for the Qidi printers. They’re specifically built for engineering materials, so both their plates would fit far better there than the Bambu printers that can’t even go above 300-320C nozzle.
I love my textured glass plate from Creality. I never have a problem as long as the surface is clean with glass cleaner. The prints pop right off when they cool.
I might have guessed that the Cryogrip plate would have been the no 1 choice. It seems to do well across a wide variety of material's, has great adhesion, lower operating temps... what more could you want? However please note that I am still quite new to this scene and I really don't know shyte about this stuff from experience, only what I have read and heard so far. So what be your opinion on the Cryogrip? Why choose the G10 over it? Also, good video, nicely done. Would be nice to see a graphic showing all the build plate material options and how well each one does for every category of extruded material. Cheers
You can do hilbert curve for top surface to sort of match the pattern of bottom layer of textured pei plate. I mean it's not the same, but significantly better looking than monotonic line. Even on smooth plate monotonic line looks bad, I tend to avoid it. Hilbert curve slows down print process if print has a lot of top surfaces, but it looks intentional, like a manufactured part. Whereas monotonic line looks cheap.
Never ever used a glue stick on either Gold rough PEI and Smooth printing PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU. Never stuck enought that you couldnt get it off and never fell off.
I have most of the plates you tested, with the exception of the Wham Bam & Dark Moon. The two plates I use the most are the BBL SmartTack and the CryoGrip Glacier. The SmartTack is awesome for tall items with a small plate footprint - things just stick without a brim or other supports. The CryoGrip FrostBite is close to the SuperTack in "stickiness". I do find I have better quality first layers with the CryoGrip plates if I use normal textured PEI bed temperatures and not the cooler temperatures recommended for the plates. I print mostly PLA and prefer a smooth satin bottom layer - I' not a fan of the BBL textured PEI plate's bottom surface.
Thanks. I don't care much about energy, as it's kind of low with 100W power consumption, plate would take thousands hour to repay and energy is not cheap where I live. I tried only textured PEI, although I have smooth PEI for two weeks, my only issue with this surface is that it needs thorough cleaning by detergent and brush every ten prints or so and I have problem with adhesion of both PLA and PETG - sometimes longer parts bend upwards and detach at long ends. It's hard to predict what "longer part" means, it could be 4x6cm 2mm thick perimeter wall, it could be 3x15cm filled rectangle.
Is there no print surfaces that you intentionally make stick permanently to your printed part? Many objects you print do not need the bottom to be "clean" and I wonder if a intentionally ruff surface you can stick to your normal print bed with magnets or weak glue but leave attached to the printed part could not give a good result. You could even sand off that base layer if you add a mm or two with solid infill to the base of the printed object. Has nobody ever made such a 1 per print type base?
Hw is so right about the Super Tack except for the removal of models. Let it cool. If you think it's cooled let it go another couple of minutes. It will pop right off the plate. Getting another one once back in stock.
Yeah it’s an amazing plate! I’m surprised about your removal experience though, I’ve let prints cool overnight and still had the same trouble getting them off. Maybes it’s the brand of filament though
If you keep your plate too clean, it needs glue even more. He is using it as a releasing agent for when things stick too hard and will damage the PEI when pulling off. TPU is a nightmare to release without glue or alcohol application while pulling.
So good to hear someone else mention PEI doesn't stick for them. I just get gaslit non-stop with people insulting me saying its still dirty, my axis is wrong, im doing wrong temps, etc.. but if the conditions are not absolutely perfect, zero dust, no alcohol residue, no previous print residue, etc.. it can occasionally work as long as i do 15mm brims on everything. My best so far is the Supertak style cool plates. Sticks perfect every time, but never too hard to remove for PLA/PETG. Allows me to finally close the P1S door too. Only complaint is cleaning. Its not safe to clean with lots of solvents or even iso alcohol and it's texture grips paper towels and microfiber cloths, and peels fibers off that stick to the plate.
You'd be suprised how many environmental factors can make PEI not work the same in any two locations. Can't always just accuse people of doing something wrong.
Lmao the 3d printer community is so funny ever since Bambu got popular. Everyone and their mother thinks they know something because your printer is smarter than you. Give the guy a break. Most of his info was either right or on the right track
🤘whew, I can cross making that video off my list now haha. I bought a ton of plates and then was like "ehhhhhhhh"
0:25 "Kyro"grip? Are those plates from Egypt? ^^
Darkmoon needs to make their Carbon Fiber and G10 plates for the Qidi printers. They’re specifically built for engineering materials, so both their plates would fit far better there than the Bambu printers that can’t even go above 300-320C nozzle.
did you mention glass plates?
I love my textured glass plate from Creality. I never have a problem as long as the surface is clean with glass cleaner. The prints pop right off when they cool.
I might have guessed that the Cryogrip plate would have been the no 1 choice. It seems to do well across a wide variety of material's, has great adhesion, lower operating temps... what more could you want?
However please note that I am still quite new to this scene and I really don't know shyte about this stuff from experience, only what I have read and heard so far.
So what be your opinion on the Cryogrip? Why choose the G10 over it? Also, good video, nicely done. Would be nice to see a graphic showing all the build plate material options and how well each one does for every category of extruded material. Cheers
You can do hilbert curve for top surface to sort of match the pattern of bottom layer of textured pei plate. I mean it's not the same, but significantly better looking than monotonic line. Even on smooth plate monotonic line looks bad, I tend to avoid it. Hilbert curve slows down print process if print has a lot of top surfaces, but it looks intentional, like a manufactured part. Whereas monotonic line looks cheap.
Never ever used a glue stick on either Gold rough PEI and Smooth printing PLA, PETG, ABS, ASA, TPU. Never stuck enought that you couldnt get it off and never fell off.
Missed the new honeycombs plates on Ali hehe
I have most of the plates you tested, with the exception of the Wham Bam & Dark Moon. The two plates I use the most are the BBL SmartTack and the CryoGrip Glacier. The SmartTack is awesome for tall items with a small plate footprint - things just stick without a brim or other supports. The CryoGrip FrostBite is close to the SuperTack in "stickiness". I do find I have better quality first layers with the CryoGrip plates if I use normal textured PEI bed temperatures and not the cooler temperatures recommended for the plates. I print mostly PLA and prefer a smooth satin bottom layer - I' not a fan of the BBL textured PEI plate's bottom surface.
glass?
glass + thin layer of water+sugar (1:1 ratio) adhesion and NOTHING will go off xD
Thanks. I don't care much about energy, as it's kind of low with 100W power consumption, plate would take thousands hour to repay and energy is not cheap where I live. I tried only textured PEI, although I have smooth PEI for two weeks, my only issue with this surface is that it needs thorough cleaning by detergent and brush every ten prints or so and I have problem with adhesion of both PLA and PETG - sometimes longer parts bend upwards and detach at long ends. It's hard to predict what "longer part" means, it could be 4x6cm 2mm thick perimeter wall, it could be 3x15cm filled rectangle.
Is there no print surfaces that you intentionally make stick permanently to your printed part? Many objects you print do not need the bottom to be "clean" and I wonder if a intentionally ruff surface you can stick to your normal print bed with magnets or weak glue but leave attached to the printed part could not give a good result. You could even sand off that base layer if you add a mm or two with solid infill to the base of the printed object. Has nobody ever made such a 1 per print type base?
One of the guys in my group chat said he had thousands of hours on his Darkmoon plates. All the offerings on their website wow 🥵
Hw is so right about the Super Tack except for the removal of models. Let it cool. If you think it's cooled let it go another couple of minutes. It will pop right off the plate. Getting another one once back in stock.
Yeah it’s an amazing plate! I’m surprised about your removal experience though, I’ve let prints cool overnight and still had the same trouble getting them off. Maybes it’s the brand of filament though
@EngineeringAddiction Pop the plate and the attached print in the fridge for 30 minutes (or freezer for 15 minutes). This tip applies to any plate.
i've heard to never use ISO on a PEI bed
Dishwasher soap works way better, isopropyl is more comfortable to use, but unreliable.
You shouldn't have to use gluestick anymore. Just keep you plates clean and you should be ok. If you need something use something like Magigoo.
If you keep your plate too clean, it needs glue even more. He is using it as a releasing agent for when things stick too hard and will damage the PEI when pulling off. TPU is a nightmare to release without glue or alcohol application while pulling.
So good to hear someone else mention PEI doesn't stick for them. I just get gaslit non-stop with people insulting me saying its still dirty, my axis is wrong, im doing wrong temps, etc.. but if the conditions are not absolutely perfect, zero dust, no alcohol residue, no previous print residue, etc.. it can occasionally work as long as i do 15mm brims on everything.
My best so far is the Supertak style cool plates. Sticks perfect every time, but never too hard to remove for PLA/PETG. Allows me to finally close the P1S door too. Only complaint is cleaning. Its not safe to clean with lots of solvents or even iso alcohol and it's texture grips paper towels and microfiber cloths, and peels fibers off that stick to the plate.
Smooth pla has better adhesion than textured mate. Textured is made for ease or release. You are doing something wrong with your smooth sheets.
You'd be suprised how many environmental factors can make PEI not work the same in any two locations. Can't always just accuse people of doing something wrong.
If you want a smooth top surface iron your top layers
Lmao the 3d printer community is so funny ever since Bambu got popular. Everyone and their mother thinks they know something because your printer is smarter than you. Give the guy a break. Most of his info was either right or on the right track
the sound is horrible... please do it agent and take care of the sound please and I will give you a tums up
It is likely your device considering I use professional quality mics and the audio is perfect on all devices I have listened to this video on