Nice one... Some extra advice from someome with Fleischmann experience 2:43 Interesting setup for the valvegear assembly, I expected a total copy of the Fleischmann approach where the whole body comes away from the chassis leaving only the wheels. 3:08 Marklin goop alert :D 14:42 Besides cleaning the whole plate, also focus on the isolation ring on one of the brush holders. This brush holder plate is a place where Hornby improved on the Fleischmann design by not treating the damn thing with chemical darkening solution (the Fleischmann ones are practically black) 15:12 It is way easier to drop the brushes in again with the faceplate in place. The brush holder clips are quite resilient against getting sloppy, even after soldering wires directly on them. 15:34 Never overtighten these screws, as having loose ones will make the faceplate move around causing excessive bearing wear. The screws will eat away the threads really fast when tightened too much. 16:00 Avoid lubricating that bearing with the faceplate on the motor as oil will end up on the commutator. The better way is to let the brass element suck up oil in multiple sessions in unassembled state. Fleischmann later changed the bearing to increasingly larger examples with more oil capacity. 17:17 Did you measure which wire was connected to the non-isloated side of the brushes, as the traction tyres only isolate the wheels when not driving in curves.... which is a common error for this design. The most interesting part is the plastic ring that is missing the keying for the magnet that is a signature feature of all Fleischmann motors of this type. While a CD motor conversion may sound like a good idea it won't reach the amount of power and smoothness that those Typ 58 units can deliver... You can try a SB Modellbau Flachlaufer remotoring kit but keep in mind that those come at 70 euros minimum
Hi Dan. Stephen here. Just wanted to thank you once again for the superb job you did on re-energising my 2 9Fs: watching you work made me think thatyou are the model loco version of Fuzz in "Car SOS"! Both locos are running very smoothly and consistently. It was interesting to see how good the mechanisms were in these older models: much better than many current locos. That Fleicshmann-type motor in the Silver Seal example is a thing of beauty. Cheers & keep up the good work. Stephen
Indeed the Silver Seal Motors were excellent and many had a signature though not unpleasant whine. Had the Silver Seal tooling have not been damaged they may have become the standard instead of the arguably inferior Ringfield Motor.
Dan I'm so sorry I haven't commented 😭 earlier.. you're the best at explaining the intricacies of servicing an engine that I have ever had the pleasure of seeing. I always look forward to your next installment with anticipation and enjoy the pleasure of your son joining you in your other trash work's.😂. Great workmanship 👍.
Great vid as always. Just a note, the modern 9f pickup plate fits the triang/hornby version. Just need to add one screw hole through the plastic. There is a gap in the pickup strip wfgere the hole used to be. Have upgraded many 9fs. The modern wheels also fit too.
Mazak rot is one hell of a problem that may very well effect everything sooner or later; there’s no telling when the rot will set in! It could be soon - like the famous Hornby Class 31s - or much, much later. I know of a gentlemen who had a mint condition pre-war Dinky. Thing was worth thousands, immaculate and with its box. It got knocked off a shelf and shattered into pieces as it too was suffering mazak rot unbeknownst to him.
Hi Dan, great video, so I was on the model this evening so I thought give the 9F's a run my black one is tender drive always runs good, the Evening Star is Hornby made in China, so it was sticking in places on the track, well it looked a bit complicated for me as I always end up breaking stuff, so I took the loco base plate off and sprayed contact cleaner over the wheels to loco and tender, running good again, let's hope I'm successful oh by the way the loco rods are held on the fine nuts not screws, thanks John
From what I understand the reason why Hornby stopped using the Silver Seal Motor is the tooling was damaged and it was more cost effective rather than a re-tool it worked out cheaper to develop the Ringfield Motor. Some of the early Ringfields did have better build quality but later ones left a lot to be desired.
The part that was apparently damaged on the tooling was the arc that holds the top screw (visible at 12:24). Hornby never bought a license for the second version of the design that eliminated this weak point.
PS.dan I have just this last 2 days ago bought a new backmann 9f 92134 just received it unopened 😂 how strange you are servicing one lol 🤣 hope that's not a bad thing 😮
Can't go wrong with the Bachmann 9F and although the tooling dates back to 2006 still holds up pretty well and is a decent alternative to the more expensive new Hornby 9F.
Hi Dan. I have several Hornby 9F's in my collection. Including 2 silver seal ones. Never had a problem with mazak rot in the wheels. But had to replace one of my later 1990 engines chassis for mazak rot. I would love to know if you could fix my 1970's Riverossi Bigboy. But I think that has it now be an impossible project as the main reason it is a none runner is due to the fact that the chassis is suffering from severe mazak rot. I have never been able to find a replacement chassis for it. Not sure if you could fine one. So it has spent the last 20 years sat in it's box looking sorry for its self.
Blimey those pickups look a nightmare. Have you considered a metal cleaning solution? Just drop them in and wait. When they emerge they're bright and shiny.
Nice one...
Some extra advice from someome with Fleischmann experience
2:43 Interesting setup for the valvegear assembly, I expected a total copy of the Fleischmann approach where the whole body comes away from the chassis leaving only the wheels.
3:08 Marklin goop alert :D
14:42 Besides cleaning the whole plate, also focus on the isolation ring on one of the brush holders. This brush holder plate is a place where Hornby improved on the Fleischmann design by not treating the damn thing with chemical darkening solution (the Fleischmann ones are practically black)
15:12 It is way easier to drop the brushes in again with the faceplate in place. The brush holder clips are quite resilient against getting sloppy, even after soldering wires directly on them.
15:34 Never overtighten these screws, as having loose ones will make the faceplate move around causing excessive bearing wear. The screws will eat away the threads really fast when tightened too much.
16:00 Avoid lubricating that bearing with the faceplate on the motor as oil will end up on the commutator. The better way is to let the brass element suck up oil in multiple sessions in unassembled state. Fleischmann later changed the bearing to increasingly larger examples with more oil capacity.
17:17 Did you measure which wire was connected to the non-isloated side of the brushes, as the traction tyres only isolate the wheels when not driving in curves.... which is a common error for this design.
The most interesting part is the plastic ring that is missing the keying for the magnet that is a signature feature of all Fleischmann motors of this type.
While a CD motor conversion may sound like a good idea it won't reach the amount of power and smoothness that those Typ 58 units can deliver... You can try a SB Modellbau Flachlaufer remotoring kit but keep in mind that those come at 70 euros minimum
Hi Dan. Stephen here. Just wanted to thank you once again for the superb job you did on re-energising my 2 9Fs: watching you work made me think thatyou are the model loco version of Fuzz in "Car SOS"! Both locos are running very smoothly and consistently. It was interesting to see how good the mechanisms were in these older models: much better than many current locos. That Fleicshmann-type motor in the Silver Seal example is a thing of beauty.
Cheers & keep up the good work. Stephen
Indeed the Silver Seal Motors were excellent and many had a signature though not unpleasant whine. Had the Silver Seal tooling have not been damaged they may have become the standard instead of the arguably inferior Ringfield Motor.
Excellent informative servicing video. As you say such a shame Triang Hornby removed the pick ups on the loco.
Hi Dan.
Nice one buddy.
Great looking locos the 9f.
Stay safe.
Pete.
Dan I'm so sorry I haven't commented 😭 earlier.. you're the best at explaining the intricacies of servicing an engine that I have ever had the pleasure of seeing. I always look forward to your next installment with anticipation and enjoy the pleasure of your son joining you in your other trash work's.😂. Great workmanship 👍.
Great vid as always. Just a note, the modern 9f pickup plate fits the triang/hornby version. Just need to add one screw hole through the plastic. There is a gap in the pickup strip wfgere the hole used to be. Have upgraded many 9fs. The modern wheels also fit too.
Great video Dan
Mazak rot is one hell of a problem that may very well effect everything sooner or later; there’s no telling when the rot will set in! It could be soon - like the famous Hornby Class 31s - or much, much later.
I know of a gentlemen who had a mint condition pre-war Dinky. Thing was worth thousands, immaculate and with its box. It got knocked off a shelf and shattered into pieces as it too was suffering mazak rot unbeknownst to him.
Hi Dan, great video, so I was on the model this evening so I thought give the 9F's a run my black one is tender drive always runs good, the Evening Star is Hornby made in China, so it was sticking in places on the track, well it looked a bit complicated for me as I always end up breaking stuff, so I took the loco base plate off and sprayed contact cleaner over the wheels to loco and tender, running good again, let's hope I'm successful oh by the way the loco rods are held on the fine nuts not screws, thanks John
Great video
Nice job dan I did a dcc and cd motor conversions on my silver seal 9f locos and converted a tender drive to a loco drive evening star
My silver seal black 5 had mazak rot in the wheels, but my 9f had plastic rot in the tender so the 9f now runs with a black 5 tender chassis
From what I understand the reason why Hornby stopped using the Silver Seal Motor is the tooling was damaged and it was more cost effective rather than a re-tool it worked out cheaper to develop the Ringfield Motor. Some of the early Ringfields did have better build quality but later ones left a lot to be desired.
The part that was apparently damaged on the tooling was the arc that holds the top screw (visible at 12:24). Hornby never bought a license for the second version of the design that eliminated this weak point.
PS.dan I have just this last 2 days ago bought a new backmann 9f 92134 just received it unopened 😂 how strange you are servicing one lol 🤣 hope that's not a bad thing 😮
Can't go wrong with the Bachmann 9F and although the tooling dates back to 2006 still holds up pretty well and is a decent alternative to the more expensive new Hornby 9F.
Hi Dan. I have several Hornby 9F's in my collection. Including 2 silver seal ones. Never had a problem with mazak rot in the wheels. But had to replace one of my later 1990 engines chassis for mazak rot. I would love to know if you could fix my 1970's Riverossi Bigboy. But I think that has it now be an impossible project as the main reason it is a none runner is due to the fact that the chassis is suffering from severe mazak rot. I have never been able to find a replacement chassis for it. Not sure if you could fine one. So it has spent the last 20 years sat in it's box looking sorry for its self.
Blimey those pickups look a nightmare. Have you considered a metal cleaning solution? Just drop them in and wait. When they emerge they're bright and shiny.
I think I have Mazak rot on my green one I need to check it