Old Floor Repair with Flex-Tec HV Flexible Epoxy from Advanced Repair Technology
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- Опубліковано 20 жов 2015
- Original hardwood floors add character and warmth to any home. Unfortunately, after years of abuse, wooden floors can begin to show their age, and years of expansion and contraction can create gaps between the boards. There are few conventional repair options to close the gaps, short of tearing up and completely relaying the floor. Advanced Repair Technology’s Flex Tec HV Epoxy Repair system is ideal to repair gaps, cracks, and holes in your hardwood floor. The Flex Tec will create a strong bond to the wood and will expand and contract with the wood to leave your floor repair looking great for years to come.
You may choose to try and match the color of your wood or, as in this application, use a darker tint to more closely resemble the existing lines of the original floor.
Hardwood floors can be an important aspect of the look and feel of your home. Unfortunately, historic homeowners have few options available when it comes to repairing their original hardwood floors.
Advanced Repair Technology's Flex-Tec HV Epoxy Repair System can be the perfect solution to restore your original hardwood floors. Flex-Tec HV is perfect for filling gaps, cracks, knotholes, and nail holes in your floors.
Flex-Tec HV can help you repair the original floor and will provide a long-lasting solution which is both stronger and more appealing than conventional repair methods. - Навчання та стиль
Someone should point out this floor is pine, not hardwood.
Would have loved to see this with a matching wood color
Fiberglass works very well too. Can add pigment to it to adjust the color.. messy as hell though and you need to let it sit a few days.. fills perfectly though.
I've been sanding wood floors for 33 years and this is totally impractical. I could list countless reasons why this wouldn't work for a wood floor but it could work good for a smaller project..
This is appropriate to use for a historic floor that is not going to be replaced due to client's wishes or for historical preservation. I'm going to do a test on a client's floors from a house built in 1850, will report back. Vendor was very knowledgeable about their product. A professional floor person accustomed to working with historic materials should be able to figure out application based on job site conditions.
Can't wait to hear how it goes!
Hey Sean, how did this go for you? I have a similar job thats about 700sq ft and curious for feedback before I start.
@@pelagofootwear8808 I went in a different direction as the manufacturer said it was tricky to apply on a floor that cannot be sanded- messy and difficult to apply evenly. I’m going to use. 3M industrial black sealant used to install windshields and such. Am applying more floor finish on top of old finish, and when that cures I’ll apply e sealant.
@@seanmccormick5128 Good to know, thank you for the update.
@@seanmccormick5128 which direction did you go? I had my floors redone but the gaps bug me and the draft is really bad. I'm trying to fix without having to redo the floors.
thanks
does it matter if the floors are sanded or finished?
Where do you buy it at?
I would just go with Boat deck fillar way easier, you even get it ready made in tubes..
Hard to believe epoxy residue will clean off with only vinegar....
Certainly just disperses it over the surface. Should have just dried and sanded lightly. Or were careful with application because ... its epoxy!
Here's how the last part of your comment appeared when it arrived as an email notification: "Or green Carroll with application because". What followed that was correct as above. Leading me to pose this off-topic question: what kind of robots are running this store????
no no no no
not practical!! You would spend 100s on 400ft. Floor!!! Ya no on that!
All filler is time consuming and that’s why I rarely do it. Some woods need that expansion gap anyway or it squeezes out in the summer.
I love this product BUT yes, it is super expensive. So in this situation I would use a lot of wood strips cut to fill the gaps which can be pressed into the first fill of epoxy. Also I'd take some fine sawdust from the sanding operation and mix it liberally into the epoxy batch. This gives the most authentic color match and you won't get the unnatural bluish tint of the pure epoxy mix.
@@FingalSix you can buy hardwood flooor fill at supply store in 3 gallon buckets
I think mixing sawdust in actually gives a stronger fill material.
@@FingalSix AND WHAT WILL YOU MIX IT WITH?
It would be quicker to lay a new floor that would take hours and be so messy
Umm... yeah. This looks like a tedious process.
dragonfitter
I own a house built in 1864
Saving the original floor and spending some time doing it would be worth the job!!!
Replacing the 10”x20’ 2” thick dark wallnut would also cost more then the house is worth with the price of wood today!!
By the way i have 2200 sf of flooring!!!!
And it would be much less expensive that stuff is over $80 a tube
Thanks for the video, but an amateur showing other amateurs how to do something isn't very inspiring. Really man. Clearly you haven't done this before.
Post one showing a person doing a better job....
Wow, seems like a ton of work geese