Glad you actually mentioned that none of the wires were used to replace the factory wires. Theres so many big 3/4 (frame to battery ground) videos that either dont mention this or just flat out tell people to replace the wires.
I have a mechman 320, 2- xs power D3400 and i need another alternator. I have 6-SA 8s in a underseat/ console box getting 5000 watts. Wired to .7 ohm. Amps/ line level booster etc is mounted on back wall. If you do that you need to put some sound deadening on the back wall before you mount the amps. I have hertz milli series 3 ways in my pillars and doors. Powered by a zapco amp.
Great video thanks for all the information you guys put out . I did my big three exactly like yours on my Tahoe , but I've seen a chart from Mechman to do something different on the ground wire for big three about a sensor on Chevy's . Probably not a big deal though . Thanks Derek for all the videos
Thank you so much for this video. I was about to pay the local audio shop like $300+ to do this on my F150. So tomorrow I'm gonna knock this out and save me some $ for some more Sundown equipment.
Glad i found this vid, just ordered me an sa v2 15in sub earlier today. This is def my next project I'm thinking, can't really upgrade my amp much without doing it anyway. Thx for the awesome vids
Same way I got mines hooked up I just got regular battery from auto zone powing the vehicle then went to my local battery store and got a regular deep cycle marine battery for my audio I do need to upgrade my battery terminals
One thing I dont believe i heard you mention, is the GM current sensor. Ive seen a couple other videos recommend basically doing a "big 2" so everything runs through that sensor, so that the computer can see everything going on , and that for some unknown circumstance, flow resists going in that direction due to the added resistance of the sensor compared to fatter wire that doesn't pass through that sensor. So just curious your take on that? Personally I don't care for that sensor. .dropping my voltage down for no appearant reason at times. Full disclaimer, I can barely brush my own teeth , so im not an expert at anything except how to blow out speakers , so you'll have to forgive me if this is a dumb question.
seems like chevy really complicated the hell out of big 3. I have a duramax and I have everything here ready to do big 3 and cannot get a straight answer on how to wire it up because of this stupid sensor. mechman has there way which im gonna say is probally correct ive searched all over the place for people that have done big 3 on duramax and they are few and far between. So i would say from your stand point not a stupid question theres not enough info about this sensors and how to wire a big 3 properly
@@pioneerpoundingspl I am in this boat at the moment(gmc sierra), what's the best route? Your comment was a year ago hopefully you have some wisdom for me. Thanks
Imho heat is always going to be an issue. Solder melts easy. Have a wire heat up briefly for w.e reason, that connections gunna fail. Crimping will give a dry weld if dont properly. I can hang off a proper crimped wire and I'm around 150lbs. I've cut a few crimped lugs with a grinder and it was solid copper. Just a quick opinion. Either way is good. I'd rather just have a good crimp than risk having a solder melt and lose connection somewhere
I have pretty much the same setup, mechman 370a elite on two group 34s powering a deafbonce 4k at .5ohm to a single deafbonce sa312 d1.. I hold 14v pretty well
Pretty much how I did my 06 with dual group 34s, only I recommend lug style battery connections so no copper wire is exposed, and I use tinned copper lugs and adhesive lined heat shrink.. tinned OFC is the best PERIOD! Personally I use knu koncepts tinned OFC because of the better color options.. I can't believe people still argue that welding wire is better, its definitely not and most welding wire people buy is the cheapest they can find, Inwhitch is class k welding cable, its cheaper for a reason. Yes it will work, but it definitely wont last as long
I did the big 3 on my 2011 Tahoe with a Mechman 340A alternator and Northstar AGM24F. I had to use the factory ground sensor. It fits the 0 gauge (barely). When I tried it without the factory ground sensor the truck would just shut off while I was driving. It happened while going 35-40 mph. It was very dangerous. Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp, T-1000ad, 360.3, CDT mids and highs, Sundown ZV5 15”. I need to add a secondary battery. It pulls too much current to listen at idle for a long period of time.
@@Prairie_Plant_Daddy my 2012 Sierra's have a Sensor running from the Battery negative to Engine Ground, That said due to the Sensor and Its small Diameter the 0 Gauge will never fit through so could not follow the Mechman Chart. So I had to leave it alone and make my own Grounds: 1.(Negative Ground) Bolt next to Alternator on Engine bracket to Chassis just overlape the existing mesh Ground at the end. 2. (Negative Ground) -Battery to -Chassis. 3. (Negative Ground) - Battery to -Engine Block overlap the factory again at the end. 4. (Positive) Battery+ to Alternator+. This might be overkill but no issues. good luck.
@@AlienGrade awesome. Thanks for the reply. So you couldn't get the 0awg through the sensor hey. I read that some guys could. I'll give it a shot when I get to install. I'll update on if I can. Wondering if I can get it through. Why can I not replace the factory connections with better wire? He says he didn't replace, just added but wondering why exactly. I'd rather replace it all with 0Awg.
Gm setup way different. My ram has a engine ground and battery ground shared on the frame. I made those 0 guage. Then ran a extra ground from batt to alternator negative and replaced the 8 guage pos to pos with 0 guage, then replaced the 10 guage battery to body with 0 guage. My wires were to degraded to save anyways. Then i ran 0 guage from back of the head to firewall ground.. solder, or crimp. To me Doesn't matter if there was a huge difference in connection, then one way would be obsolete by now basically is my theory on it. I dont need to use it as a strap to pull a trailer. It is a wire. Normally after a few days or a week. Ill go back and make sure vibrations and heat and cooling havnt caused them to get loose a little. Normally they dont. But ive heard cheap ring terminals will expand and contract and the wire will wiggle itself loose but ive never dealt with that.
will be nice if you also ground the vehicle chassis, but if the sound system dont require that or if you are going to use the vehicle cabin as ground you dont need the vehicle chassis ground then
Yeah i love ball bearing ones. The cheap sliders. Normally i find tool boxes with similar drawer dimensions and spend 25 bucks to buy drawer slide parts from that company on all new ball bearing slides and swap them out. Get the quality of a 400 dollar tool box for 125. It normally takes just a drill and about 3hrs of cussing and your kids on the phone with grandpa telling him, dad is saying no no words.
Thank you for making this video man. You were extremely thorough and I like how you don't just explain the what, you also explain the why. It was also very helpful to me the way you would stress the importance of certain things several times during the video because doing it that way guaranteed me that I wouldnt make a mistake. You do really nice work and I'll make sure to subscribe so I can keep up to date with any new content you make. I actually do have 1 question tho, I've got a 2013 Tahoe and everything is the exact same as your install except that my vehicle has the RVC sensor on it. Is there anything special I need to do with that or should I just leave it alone or maybe pass a larger gauge wire through it or something? I've been having a hard time finding anything conclusive as far as that goes. Thank you in advance.
Can i just use the power wire for the power and the grounds?. Cause i have more power wire only reason i ask. Also from what i see with the upgrade kits the wires are the same just different colors
Question, this full bridge style is how the brazilian amps are designed, but they dont like voltage drop. With the sfb 3000 im buying, whats the safest to drop too. I have a 250 amp alt and just 1 agm under the hood but i eventually plan on putting a northstar or xs power in the back. Would it be fine aslong as i dont drop below 13v.
I was on d4s the other day but couldn't find sundown wire. I need some 1/0 to go with the rest I got from a friend so I can pull all of the old Audiotechnics wire out
I have a question.. you went, + battery to + alt. Then, factory chassis ground to engine block (alt bracket). Then from the engine block to the - battery post. Someone said to upgrade vehicle’s frame ground to the - battery post. Is this right??
You can upgrade the frame ground as well, if needed. In this build I'll be using the cab for all the rear grounds so it's the main thing I wanted upgraded.
I got a 2011 2500 with the duramax and the Alt is directly in the middle of the engine where your air intake hose is at. It is a bitch to get too. Have to take off the top part of the engine covers and the mechman 320 i got has the bolts in the worse possible location to try and put the 1/0 on and nut.
I also have a question. Why do people always run 2 xs power d series. Why not 1 xs power d3100-3400 then a xs xp2000-3000 if it is just being used as a secondary reserve battery. Yeah it doesnt have high output for cranking and such. But is a 90-120ah which is plenty for a secondary battery. . Or am i mistaken? Also the xp2000 is 110ah for 260 i believe. Or is it just wanting it to match deal? Only thing i could see is if you have winch and stuff that draw heavy amounts of current or it is a diesel which requires 2 fast and high discharging batteries just to start. But most i see are gas like yours where 2 isnt really required for startup
Waiting on mine from Amazon. Best first step it seems. Just a general question to anybody who truly knows why do people put multiple feeds to amps 2 or more power/ground wires to each terminal?
Allows the amp to get its voltage and amperage easier / more efficiently. Most 4000 watt amps and up have multiple ground and power inputs to feed the amplifier and the amp would not work properly without proper connection & install.
from my research, the secondary ground wire should be ran from the battery negative terminal to the alternator case or mounting bolt. just be sure to clean the mounting location prior to attaching and securing. I know you've done this "big 3" a thousand times, but, you showed, unsafe/ poor practice / poor form by NOT disconnecting the negative battery cable prior to starting this upgrade. A less experienced person may cause them selves a bigger issue or injury.
Yes you can ground to an alt mounting bolt. Just make sure you're clear of heat and moving objects. I like that my Mechman alt has a dedicated grounding bolt located on the alt case itself. That will get shown off in the next video.
I prefer 2/0 welding cable. Imo it’s higher quality copper strands for lower cost. Car audio 1/0 ofc is usually $3.50-$5 a ft, welding is $2.29-$3.59 per ft depending on where you order. I got some 2/0 Flex A Prene welding cable for 2.59 per foot shipped...
Cmax / Limitless/ Yinlong Lithium will be the better investment due to the capabilities of the tech.. Check out the XS power branded Yinlong LTO cells, limitless lithium gorilla G series for a purpose built battery ( limitless has two lines Blue & Gorilla ). Unless a new product has been released, the XS power Yinlong LTO will have to be built ( most cell based lithium is DIY )
Tinned, OSB and oversized are ALL sales gimmicks. Let's PROVE it. Tin sucks compared to copper at carrying amperage. There's one down. OSB, I have NO clue what that is or how it helps anything. Oversized, the wire is either 1/0 or not. If you want to talk about the outer jacket insulation go ahead. That is crap also. It's Chinese aluminum jelly insulated junk wire. NO comparison to real copper battery cable with its 105C outer insulation rating.
Lmao, that's the most smooth brained comment I've seen in a while! It's "tinned OFC"... meaning it is Oxygen Free Copper (99.9% pure copper) that has been tinned to seal the copper for better corrosion resistance. The "oversized" term used could be referring to the wire itself or the jacket being larger than standard, either of which isn't a bad thing.
Haaaa look like someone tryna copy lil bit of Skar with the swag only difference is Skar sent them to me for free and letting d4s sponsor sundown audio is only going to cause problems for sundown, such as losing money, customers etc.. soooo many people hates d4s cause someone had forgotten where he’s come from...
Dude this is so confusing. Just wire all your grounds directly to the frame underneath ur vehicle.! There is no better grounds then the actual frame of the vehicle.!! Ground your alternator to the frame.! Ground your actual battery to the frame.! And ground your Engine block to the frame of the vehicle.! Then run a wire from positive on your battery to the positive on your alternator.! That’s all you gotta do.!
Holy shit that Merch intro was so smooth that made me wanna but 2 sunglasses. One for dad and the other for me. Haha keep it up!!!
finally someone did the same body style truck as mine! thanks man looking good
Glad you actually mentioned that none of the wires were used to replace the factory wires. Theres so many big 3/4 (frame to battery ground) videos that either dont mention this or just flat out tell people to replace the wires.
Thank u this was the most helpful video I’ve seen regarding the Big 3 and a newer body style Chevy 5.3
Absolutely love this channel I have been up there twice! Maybe the next time I come up I will get a chance to meet yall!
I have a mechman 320, 2- xs power D3400 and i need another alternator. I have 6-SA 8s in a underseat/ console box getting 5000 watts. Wired to .7 ohm. Amps/ line level booster etc is mounted on back wall. If you do that you need to put some sound deadening on the back wall before you mount the amps. I have hertz milli series 3 ways in my pillars and doors. Powered by a zapco amp.
Sounds like you have a nice setup
Great video thanks for all the information you guys put out . I did my big three exactly like yours on my Tahoe , but I've seen a chart from Mechman to do something different on the ground wire for big three about a sensor on Chevy's . Probably not a big deal though . Thanks Derek for all the videos
How did it work out? Mechman says to get rid of factory ground?
Love me some big 3 install and your correct its the cheapest way to upgrade your system setup first . Very important that that be done
Great explanation of every step. Thanks D. About to tackle this on a couple vehicles here soon.
When one is my big 3 derek, I just made sure all my high points were connected right. Good job explaining the whole install man.
On my yukon. Do u have to pass all grounds Thur the ground sensor ring
Thank you so much for this video. I was about to pay the local audio shop like $300+ to do this on my F150. So tomorrow I'm gonna knock this out and save me some $ for some more Sundown equipment.
Always disconnect your negative battery terminal before beginning project. Lol i have arc welded some stuff my not doing this before.
Sweet! SOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoo much BS before what I was looking for. GREAT JOB
Kool I'm not the only one that gets myself stuff for x-mas...seems like those are the best gifts you get
Glad i found this vid, just ordered me an sa v2 15in sub earlier today. This is def my next project I'm thinking, can't really upgrade my amp much without doing it anyway. Thx for the awesome vids
Same way I got mines hooked up I just got regular battery from auto zone powing the vehicle then went to my local battery store and got a regular deep cycle marine battery for my audio I do need to upgrade my battery terminals
I have like 3 grounds . 1 to alternator bracket. 1 to frame . 1 to body and 1 power wire to alternator.
Amazon needs to start sponsoring you too . Amazon prime isn’t enough lol
Somebody got a bit throttle happy with them donuts in that lot behind you lol
One thing I dont believe i heard you mention, is the GM current sensor. Ive seen a couple other videos recommend basically doing a "big 2" so everything runs through that sensor, so that the computer can see everything going on , and that for some unknown circumstance, flow resists going in that direction due to the added resistance of the sensor compared to fatter wire that doesn't pass through that sensor. So just curious your take on that? Personally I don't care for that sensor. .dropping my voltage down for no appearant reason at times.
Full disclaimer, I can barely brush my own teeth , so im not an expert at anything except how to blow out speakers , so you'll have to forgive me if this is a dumb question.
seems like chevy really complicated the hell out of big 3. I have a duramax and I have everything here ready to do big 3 and cannot get a straight answer on how to wire it up because of this stupid sensor. mechman has there way which im gonna say is probally correct ive searched all over the place for people that have done big 3 on duramax and they are few and far between. So i would say from your stand point not a stupid question theres not enough info about this sensors and how to wire a big 3 properly
@@pioneerpoundingspl I am in this boat at the moment(gmc sierra), what's the best route? Your comment was a year ago hopefully you have some wisdom for me. Thanks
This weather is crazy it was 65 and sunny this past weekend all the way up here in Rhode Island .
Wish it was like that here bro it's freezing!!!
Imho heat is always going to be an issue. Solder melts easy. Have a wire heat up briefly for w.e reason, that connections gunna fail. Crimping will give a dry weld if dont properly. I can hang off a proper crimped wire and I'm around 150lbs. I've cut a few crimped lugs with a grinder and it was solid copper. Just a quick opinion. Either way is good. I'd rather just have a good crimp than risk having a solder melt and lose connection somewhere
Sundown sunglasses? Sounds legit
What friggen bird is that squawking in the background? Nothin I've ever heard in Michigan lol
I have pretty much the same setup, mechman 370a elite on two group 34s powering a deafbonce 4k at .5ohm to a single deafbonce sa312 d1.. I hold 14v pretty well
Sounds like an awesome setup
I have a 370a with the gym voltage controller on 07 Tahoe but voltage hits 19v... I don't know why
Running bare wire into the battery terminal and just bolt them down??? What about wire ferrules? Also what about the ground wire sensor?
Pretty much how I did my 06 with dual group 34s, only I recommend lug style battery connections so no copper wire is exposed, and I use tinned copper lugs and adhesive lined heat shrink.. tinned OFC is the best PERIOD! Personally I use knu koncepts tinned OFC because of the better color options.. I can't believe people still argue that welding wire is better, its definitely not and most welding wire people buy is the cheapest they can find, Inwhitch is class k welding cable, its cheaper for a reason. Yes it will work, but it definitely wont last as long
Can you put the big 3 in before u put a system in ? Or do u jus have to put it in for a system install
Good video. The Best grounds go to the frame that’s why gm usually has three different grounds from engine to body and or frame.
Use wire ferrals on the ends, before inserting in D4S battery terminal blocks.
Those battery post distro blocks are crap too. Where's the copper at ? Shiny pot metal is junk at carrying amperage. How about a copper buss bar?
I did the big 3 on my 2011 Tahoe with a Mechman 340A alternator and Northstar AGM24F. I had to use the factory ground sensor. It fits the 0 gauge (barely). When I tried it without the factory ground sensor the truck would just shut off while I was driving. It happened while going 35-40 mph. It was very dangerous. Rockford Fosgate T-1500bdcp, T-1000ad, 360.3, CDT mids and highs, Sundown ZV5 15”. I need to add a secondary battery. It pulls too much current to listen at idle for a long period of time.
Just about to start a big 3 on my 2012 sierra any tips? Mechman 340A like yours.
@@AlienGradehey man. I'm about to do this on my 2008. What did you end up doing? The big 2 mechman way? Thanks
@@Prairie_Plant_Daddy my 2012 Sierra's have a Sensor running from the Battery negative to Engine Ground, That said due to the Sensor and Its small Diameter the 0 Gauge will never fit through so could not follow the Mechman Chart. So I had to leave it alone and make my own Grounds: 1.(Negative Ground) Bolt next to Alternator on Engine bracket to Chassis just overlape the existing mesh Ground at the end. 2. (Negative Ground) -Battery to -Chassis. 3. (Negative Ground) - Battery to -Engine Block overlap the factory again at the end. 4. (Positive) Battery+ to Alternator+. This might be overkill but no issues. good luck.
forgot, a 300amp fuse on the positive O gauge wire.
@@AlienGrade awesome. Thanks for the reply. So you couldn't get the 0awg through the sensor hey. I read that some guys could. I'll give it a shot when I get to install. I'll update on if I can. Wondering if I can get it through. Why can I not replace the factory connections with better wire? He says he didn't replace, just added but wondering why exactly. I'd rather replace it all with 0Awg.
Gm setup way different. My ram has a engine ground and battery ground shared on the frame. I made those 0 guage. Then ran a extra ground from batt to alternator negative and replaced the 8 guage pos to pos with 0 guage, then replaced the 10 guage battery to body with 0 guage. My wires were to degraded to save anyways. Then i ran 0 guage from back of the head to firewall ground.. solder, or crimp. To me Doesn't matter if there was a huge difference in connection, then one way would be obsolete by now basically is my theory on it. I dont need to use it as a strap to pull a trailer. It is a wire. Normally after a few days or a week. Ill go back and make sure vibrations and heat and cooling havnt caused them to get loose a little. Normally they dont. But ive heard cheap ring terminals will expand and contract and the wire will wiggle itself loose but ive never dealt with that.
will be nice if you also ground the vehicle chassis, but if the sound system dont require that or if you are going to use the vehicle cabin as ground you dont need the vehicle chassis ground then
Looks like there was an issue hooking up to the battery pos. If so can you explain the what and the fix? Otherwise a great video Thanks.
Them husky toolboxes are nice from home depot. Mainly want ball bearing roller draws on a toolbox
Yeah i love ball bearing ones. The cheap sliders. Normally i find tool boxes with similar drawer dimensions and spend 25 bucks to buy drawer slide parts from that company on all new ball bearing slides and swap them out. Get the quality of a 400 dollar tool box for 125. It normally takes just a drill and about 3hrs of cussing and your kids on the phone with grandpa telling him, dad is saying no no words.
STARTING TO LIKE THIS CHANNEL!!!!!
Does your truck have a RVC or battery current sensor? If so, have yoy had any voltage drop issues?
Thank you for making this video man. You were extremely thorough and I like how you don't just explain the what, you also explain the why. It was also very helpful to me the way you would stress the importance of certain things several times during the video because doing it that way guaranteed me that I wouldnt make a mistake. You do really nice work and I'll make sure to subscribe so I can keep up to date with any new content you make. I actually do have 1 question tho, I've got a 2013 Tahoe and everything is the exact same as your install except that my vehicle has the RVC sensor on it. Is there anything special I need to do with that or should I just leave it alone or maybe pass a larger gauge wire through it or something? I've been having a hard time finding anything conclusive as far as that goes. Thank you in advance.
What does the RVC Sensor look like? I think I have issues because my ground is not going through it.
Can i just use the power wire for the power and the grounds?. Cause i have more power wire only reason i ask. Also from what i see with the upgrade kits the wires are the same just different colors
I had a husky toolbox just like that the only problem is after a year of the rollers on the drawers fell apart little plastic rollers on the drawers
it would be really awesome if you could do a amp test Tuesday on the sam 65.4
Sabes si la tuerca de tierra original del bloque de motor que va hacia la bateria tiene que estar apretada a cierto torque de libras ?..
Question, this full bridge style is how the brazilian amps are designed, but they dont like voltage drop. With the sfb 3000 im buying, whats the safest to drop too. I have a 250 amp alt and just 1 agm under the hood but i eventually plan on putting a northstar or xs power in the back. Would it be fine aslong as i dont drop below 13v.
JirenTheGrey. Fortnite Battle Royale yes the amps work from 10V - 15.5 V keep above 12V and you will be good.
I was on d4s the other day but couldn't find sundown wire. I need some 1/0 to go with the rest I got from a friend so I can pull all of the old Audiotechnics wire out
Heres the install kit.
www.down4soundshop.com/sundown-audio-1-0-ofc-amp-install-kit/
I didnt see the full spools of 1/0gas either but I'm sure if you contact him he will be happy to set you up.
Thanks for the reply. Much appreciated.
I have a question..
you went, + battery to + alt. Then, factory chassis ground to engine block (alt bracket). Then from the engine block to the - battery post.
Someone said to upgrade vehicle’s frame ground to the - battery post. Is this right??
You can upgrade the frame ground as well, if needed. In this build I'll be using the cab for all the rear grounds so it's the main thing I wanted upgraded.
Sundown Audio unofficial awesome! Thank you for the reply. I was confused. Can’t wait to see the piglet build!
I have same truck but a diesel 2 batteries and I have a upgraded alternator 360amp but how do I deal with the 2 batteries?
Sundown glasses and shirts🔥🔥🔥
oh yeah im getting me some
Did you keep the stock positive wire from the battery to the alternator or replace it?? thank you
I got a 2011 2500 with the duramax and the Alt is directly in the middle of the engine where your air intake hose is at. It is a bitch to get too. Have to take off the top part of the engine covers and the mechman 320 i got has the bolts in the worse possible location to try and put the 1/0 on and nut.
Never sieze is great for stopping corrosion on connections
I also have a question. Why do people always run 2 xs power d series. Why not 1 xs power d3100-3400 then a xs xp2000-3000 if it is just being used as a secondary reserve battery. Yeah it doesnt have high output for cranking and such. But is a 90-120ah which is plenty for a secondary battery. . Or am i mistaken? Also the xp2000 is 110ah for 260 i believe. Or is it just wanting it to match deal? Only thing i could see is if you have winch and stuff that draw heavy amounts of current or it is a diesel which requires 2 fast and high discharging batteries just to start. But most i see are gas like yours where 2 isnt really required for startup
Waiting on mine from Amazon. Best first step it seems. Just a general question to anybody who truly knows why do people put multiple feeds to amps 2 or more power/ground wires to each terminal?
Allows the amp to get its voltage and amperage easier / more efficiently. Most 4000 watt amps and up have multiple ground and power inputs to feed the amplifier and the amp would not work properly without proper connection & install.
Appreciate it thank you.
Why not replace wire, rather than adding ?
Great video!!
Great info butttttt... Terrible high pitched whine / noise throughout the video
from my research, the secondary ground wire should be ran from the battery negative terminal to the alternator case or mounting bolt. just be sure to clean the mounting location prior to attaching and securing.
I know you've done this "big 3" a thousand times, but, you showed, unsafe/ poor practice / poor form by NOT disconnecting the negative battery cable prior to starting this upgrade. A less experienced person may cause them selves a bigger issue or injury.
nice headers, lets hear em
Hey Derrick my 04yukon DO NOT LIK THE BIG THREE I DONT UNDERSTAND IT MY LIGHT FLIKER WHEN USE LARGE WIRE FROM MY ALT TO MY BATT????
Only thing I can say is really check those connections. I would use a dmm to test voltage at each point before and after each connection point.
Is it bad when doing the big 3 to run your body ground from the battery to body?
The most lost socket and tool of all time. The 10mm lmao
Where should I get this done? At a mechanic or at an audio place ?
An audio place would be ALOT cheaper
What your in my state.I never knew this.
So can you use a mounting bolt of the alternator? If the clear is there?
Yes you can ground to an alt mounting bolt. Just make sure you're clear of heat and moving objects. I like that my Mechman alt has a dedicated grounding bolt located on the alt case itself. That will get shown off in the next video.
@@UnofficialAudio looking forward to seeing it
So do you recommend running an extra ground wire from the battery to the chases or this is enough?
How do you feel about chassis ground?
Youre right supposed to be the big 4. You have to have same gauge all the way through to make a continuous circuit.
All my rear grounds will be to the cab so an upgraded frame ground isnt as important for my setup.
Derrick is so masc 😏😊
There is a guy with a channel and hot shot buissness called tow piglet your gonna get hit with trademark
How many strans is the ofc wire
over 5000 strains like XS Power wires
More then 5145 cresendos ofc 1/0 if so then i will b getting a spool from u guys
I prefer 2/0 welding cable. Imo it’s higher quality copper strands for lower cost. Car audio 1/0 ofc is usually $3.50-$5 a ft, welding is $2.29-$3.59 per ft depending on where you order. I got some 2/0 Flex A Prene welding cable for 2.59 per foot shipped...
Up To Bat Entertainment where did u order it thanks
Do u have a big 3 set up for 87 blazer?
Big 3 kits are kinda universal
Ty
For a 25,000 - 30,000 watt system should i go with the xs 3100s or 7500s
In my opinion d3100s are a better deal on price to power. If you're limited on space & quantity of batteries then use the bigger/taller d7500.
@@UnofficialAudio thank you alot!
Cmax / Limitless/ Yinlong Lithium will be the better investment due to the capabilities of the tech.. Check out the XS power branded Yinlong LTO cells, limitless lithium gorilla G series for a purpose built battery ( limitless has two lines Blue & Gorilla ). Unless a new product has been released, the XS power Yinlong LTO will have to be built ( most cell based lithium is DIY )
no way not a Husky tool box lololololololololololololololol
Tinned, OSB and oversized are ALL sales gimmicks. Let's PROVE it. Tin sucks compared to copper at carrying amperage. There's one down. OSB, I have NO clue what that is or how it helps anything. Oversized, the wire is either 1/0 or not. If you want to talk about the outer jacket insulation go ahead. That is crap also. It's Chinese aluminum jelly insulated junk wire. NO comparison to real copper battery cable with its 105C outer insulation rating.
Lmao, that's the most smooth brained comment I've seen in a while! It's "tinned OFC"... meaning it is Oxygen Free Copper (99.9% pure copper) that has been tinned to seal the copper for better corrosion resistance. The "oversized" term used could be referring to the wire itself or the jacket being larger than standard, either of which isn't a bad thing.
Haaaa look like someone tryna copy lil bit of Skar with the swag only difference is Skar sent them to me for free and letting d4s sponsor sundown audio is only going to cause problems for sundown, such as losing money, customers etc.. soooo many people hates d4s cause someone had forgotten where he’s come from...
Where has he come from enlighten the crowd.
Greg l hell who gives a shit
21:38
Jon Anderson hahaaa WTF was that..
Not really a good video, its like watching someone work. Not upclose show while your working
Dude, pick up trucks are a dime a dozen. NOTHING special to see at all.
Æ 팅커
`(°¿°)´
애 /\ 매
Dude this is so confusing. Just wire all your grounds directly to the frame underneath ur vehicle.! There is no better grounds then the actual frame of the vehicle.!! Ground your alternator to the frame.! Ground your actual battery to the frame.! And ground your Engine block to the frame of the vehicle.! Then run a wire from positive on your battery to the positive on your alternator.! That’s all you gotta do.!
Hey man tha do t really work you forgot you have a ground sensor close to the battery
If you have two batteries under the hood do you have to big 3 on both ?