Don't make this WIRING MISTAKE on newer GM Trucks RVC (Regulated Voltage Control) | AnthonyJ350
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- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- In this video we go over an important way to route your ground wires if you plan to do the Big 3 or just a simple grounding upgrade on your newer GM truck. You have to make sure you pass your wiring through the current sensor found on the negative cable coming off the battery. This is the design of GM's regulated voltage control for their charging systems. The current sensor allows the charging system to be more accurate and charge the battery as necessary.
#Big3 #GroundUpgrade #GroundKit #Alternator #WiringUpgrade
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Don't make this WIRING MISTAKE on newer GM Trucks RVC (Regulated Voltage Control) | AnthonyJ350
• Don't make this WIRING...
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OMG!!!! THANK YOU! I have been battling my 13' Escalade for 4 weekends straight. I've been doing car audio for 20 yrs, so I'm not new to the scene. But when this Esky stomped me I was about to give up, and rip it all out (literally, frustrated 👿👿👿). I did the big three and all, and still when my auto door locks, windows, even horn operate, the amp, shut off. I was about to take it to the shop or give up and sell my skar rp2000.1. When I passes the big 3 ground wire through the sensor BAM amp stays on. Should have known it was a sensor. My BMW's have the same smart alternator. Your info should be made a sticky on a forum some where. Thanks a bunch!!!!!!😁😁😁😁💯💯💯
That's awesome so glad to hear it helped! This is probably the most relevant feedback so far as to how important it is to pass through the sensor. Thanks for sharing!
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Update: My Esky amp still had problems after passing the cable through the sensor. It did help keep my charging voltage steady but, my amp still kicked out. I fought this for 5 weekends straight!!!! 😠 😠 My problem was with preamp voltage to amplifier (skar rp2000) itself. I used a PAC PDLC81 line converter because i kept my stock head unit. To make a story short, the preamp voltage was to high for the amp recommendations. When installing a line converter, make sure the preamp voltage it outputs matches the amplifier you're pushing. Hope this helps someone.
Wow just found out about this did the big 3 can I just run negative battery wire next to sensor from battery to chassis I have a 2007 suburban gmt 900??
@@gueroburban4989 Hey buddy. You have to run it inside the current sensor as it's the only way to measure the voltage / amperage. That way the vehicle can regulate the amount of current draw for the alternator to increase or decrease the output of itself. Hope this helps.
This is a great video. I do a lot of voltage issues on transit coaches. We were having a lot of no starts in the lot. Kept looking at voltage drop and changed all of the positive cables and grounds to the batteries.
We were running 300amp 50DN alternators. And was losing 50 amps from the alternator to the batteries. The final fix was a ground from t h e alternator case to the frame ground. Even the there was ground straps from the engine to the frame it wasn't enough.
Most of the high breed vehicles monitor the ground side just like this. Don't know how many times the ground side was the issue.
Like all of your videoś I have watched. Great job!
Thank you! Definitely ground body to frame front and rear and ground the cylinder heads to frame and body.
You saved the day man! All these unprofessional forums without a solid answer. This is exactly what I was looking for, regarding my 05 Tahoe with a gnarly sound system. Thanks for the clarity, thanks for staying humble along with the great context of words. So stoked! Can't wait to dial this thing in.
Thank you so much for watching, I'm glad the video helped you. You might also want to watch my Mechman video to help with your sound system.
ua-cam.com/video/uzcVPcldvBU/v-deo.html
Also cleaning the grounds upgrading will help you as well ua-cam.com/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/v-deo.html
Don't forget to subscribe!
@Travis Hamler pretty basic. Just 2 batteries, all double grounded with big 3. 1/0 Guage for everything, all OFC of course. ORIGINAL 160a bosch alt LOL. 3 amps of course.
-Just ran 1 wire though the sensor.
8ga Powering skar 240rms class a/b for mids and high in the pillars, which also splits off to MiniDSP and signal wiring.
1/0 goes back; splits to nvx 900wrms class d midbass amps for mid drivers..... And other half to nvx 1000 rms class d for my SI-SQL 12". All amps double grounded as well.
Stays above 13v all the time, no dimming, no speaker whine etc. Interior and engine bay looks stock, everything hidden hahaha
I always thought that I made things more complicated than they should have been,, but I wouldn’t have thought there would be reason for a meter o n the neg. Side to control the voltage to the battery. It makes sense now and I see it as a very simple but brilliant idea Thanks for bringing it to my attention and for making an exceptional production.y
Thanks for watching!
Thankyou for this video!!!! It’s almost NOTHING out here explaining how to do Big 3 with the sensor!! Great information and detail!!!
Glad to hear the video helped you 😀
THANK YOU FOR THIS!!!! I did the "Big 3" and completely forgot to put the GBCM (Generator Battery Control Module) on any of the grounds. Battery life was awful - for obvious reasons. Still forgetting and not even knowing about the GBCM, I dropped a 3300A XS Power battery and a Mechman 260a (I think, maybe 240A, with the stock being 80A) alternator. Still horrible. I thought the alternator was bad. Tested the stock, everything seemed fine. Nope. The first time it got cold, I'd have a dead battery. I mean 8 volts dead. I resorted to changing the battery at night via a charger. I even changed the battery. The XSPower battery has been sitting in my basement for a year and still has a 14-volt charge, so not a battery issue.
Then I found the GBCM lying, plugged into the harness, but near the battery. I looked it up. Aha! I ran a ground-wire through it, and again, things seemed ok. Suddenly, however, I'd get 15.5 charging at the start (Via voltmeter and OBDC) and dropping to as low as 11 volts after the engine ran for a while. Several people claiming to be mechanics said it was normal. Nope. It turns out, I had wired everything the same way, Big ground to the Engine, Big ground to the frame, and moderate ground to the body. There's no way the GBCM can accurately monitor battery usage with all the extra grounds. Unplugging the GBCM will put the alternator in its default charge mode using the voltage regulator to simply charge at 14 volts. I get the battery light, but it charges. The battery won't hold a charge, even after manually charging it, as soon as the charger registers 13.6 volts and shuts off, the battery tests at 11.5 volts. Letting it sit for a couple of hours, and it drops to 10v, so It's definitely bad.
I ordered a new GBCM (These are like finding crystal clear diamonds - super hard to come by as no one uses these past 2012, I believe). I got the replacement in, replacing the ground with the engine as I realized it's not 0 gauge, instead 0/4 gauge. 0 gauge insulation, 4 gauge wire, and I will be putting both the Mechman alternator and the XSpower battery back in. it 5 degrees out and I don't have a garage, so it may wait a few days. At the end of the day, these GBCM modules were put in to supposedly save fuel. It'd turn the alternator off if the battery's charge was sufficient to keep everything running without charging. The problem is, it didn't save that much, and many mechanics have no idea what these are, so they throw parts at it until giving up, saying the ECM and/or the BCM is bad. Thanks again for posting this video!
You're welcome!
I am soooo glad I found your video. Unfortunately I wish you would have made this 5 yrs ago, lol. I ruined an AGM battery because I didn’t follow this advice. What I did was unplug the sensor and lived with it. I monitored the voltage with a plug in meter. I averaged 14 volts, BUT just because you have 14v, doesn’t mean that your CPU is “happy”. I watched this video initially at work and went outside and basically “undid” the Big 4 (not 3). Going to hook up the way your doing it with upgraded 1/0. I am confused on where ALL of your upgraded grounds are mounted. From the Mechman diagram, I see upgraded ground going through the sensor from alt mount to battery, but is that ALL that the grounds they are recommending? Awesome channel...I subscribed!!
Thanks! Ya my grounds go to frame, cylinder heads and body.
AnthonyJ350 All from battery? Or does one go from battery to alt bracket, then from alt bracket to the other places you just said ?
@@tomgreen1423 other places just go straight to frame. Your 0 ga to frame will then take over.
So unplugged I get a solid 13.5-13.7 with a decent system (1200 watt). What is the harm of ~13.5 consistently ? Older vehicles do it....I dont think older vehicles putting out this many volts go through any more batteries than this GM logic. Now I’m not arguing...just asking
@@tomgreen1423 Older vehicles charge at 14.5 typically so you're at the lower end. When the system sees the battery over 80% state of charge it will go to 12.9ish.
Remember headlight mode is 14.5 and fast charge is around 15. I would just leave it plugged in and upgrade the grounds.
Yes it will charge the battery more fully which will make the truck run better. It has to do with the spark plugs grounding back to the battery. The battery is actually a condenser for the high voltage coil circuit. Also higher available voltage will charge the coils better. Also when passing multiple ground wires through the load sensor make sure they are all going in the same direction otherwise they will cancel each other.
Thanks for the comment!
The best I've seen so far, less talk and show's more troubleshooting and research with out standing results, thank you.
Thank you for watching! Glad the video helped 🙂
It sounds like you got an upgrade alternator and are still using the sensor . I saw this sensor on my first install in this truck . I was wondering what it was for . Glad I found this video . Thanks
Glad to hear the video helped!
@@AnthonyJ350 what year models does this apply to?
@sean.g4516 If you look real close at the top of the screen hes pointing out it says "2005 and up."
Getting ready to install a system in a 2013 tahoe. I installed a 350 amp alternator that's a 4 pin and installed a Mechman 2 pin module and the 4 pin connector has 1 + wire that you install on any wire ignition turn on. Ran to injector. With a inline fuse. Recently installed big 3 kit Haven't gotten that far yet to try. Getting new batteries at the moment. Thanks for sharing your post
Let us know how it goes after!
Just planning my upgrade to try and get rid of the headlight dim when the bass hits, and I thank you for this info.
Your welcome! I would also upgrade the grounds to help with current flow for the whole vehicle.
Had this same sensor on my power wire from the alternator to my battery in my 2010 impala. Battery Saver would always engage after like 10 to 20 minutes, especially with climate controls on. I didnt wanna take out any of my factory wiring after doing the Big 3 because I believe in adding on, not replacing. So I ended up picking up a good sensor at a junkyard and spliced the new one into the one I already have. Ran my 0 ga power wire thru the new sensor and I haven't had Battery Saver pop up ever since. Voltage has been great too.
That's pretty cool, thanks for sharing! So there are 2 sensors running simultaneously in your car?
Thanks for the info. I've been thinking of doing the same. Been contemplating if it'll work for about a week now.
I have the same exact issue with my 2008 Impala.. I'm gonna do the same thing as you!
Had just installed a JL 1000 watt amp. I didn't upgrade under the hood. Just ran 4 gauge for the amp. Sounded great and dimmed the hell out of the lights. 3 weeks later I went to roll up the window and my amp shut off. Still had power to it but no output. I returned the amp for another but was waiting to put it in until I did the upgrade. I have a 2011 silverado. Glad I found your vid cause I would have done it wrong and possibly fried another amp.
Thanks for watching! You might also need to upgrade the battery.
Did this solve your problem?
@stephenwhite5444 I shipped the Amp back and got a new one sent to me. I ended up not upgrading the grounds under the hood. Got a capacitor and it has really helped. No more dimming the lights.
@@JeffBryant what size capacitor did you get ? Ty
Firstly, Liked and Subscribed. This was great info. I just put together 2 extra grounds for my truck the other day then came across this video and thought, bahhh now I have to redo them somehow. But I guess not, I have a 2001 GMC Sierra, and it doesn't have this sensor. So it's probably OK to assume from about 99 to 02 Silverado/Sierra (probably the other GM full size vehicles also) that they don't have this RVC. From 2003 and up it's very possible that they introduced it, since that was the new body style update, and some electrical and minor body style changes occurred.
I had read about this system before on the NNBS (07-13) trucks since people were complaining that their voltmeters would only be showing around 12v at times, which is normal since this system will not always charge at full 14v+ it will lower down to reduce strain on the accessory belt drive and in turn add that minuscule amount of MPG gain from the lesser load....
Thanks for the comment! Sorry about the late reply, yes with your year of truck you shouldn't have to worry about the RVC system.
As I understand only the wires connected to the negative battery post needs to run through the sensor. I added another ground from alternator to frame, and from engine block to body. Everything works fine. The one single ground wire from alternator runs through the sensor to the battery negative. I am also going to add a xs7500 battery to the rear with a isolator, ground it to the frame. This is on a 2011 silverado.
If everything is working as it's suppose to, everything is all good.
The wires that go through my ring are positive I have two wires one to the starter and one to the alternator post they are the only wires that go through a sensor the ground wires do not. Should I run a ground through that ring?
Saved me a lot of time thank you! Ive had low voltage for two years because of that ground bypass I did for my system
Glad the video helped you!
I upgraded my stock alternator that was 105 to a 290 amp and the battery from a 700 to an 800 did the big three upgrade also. Haven't had any problems but I still got to hook up my stereo so we'll see from there
Let us know how it goes!
Just run your new ground wires from where the stock battery ground wire attaches to the block. NOT to the battery itself. That way your 'body', 'chassis', 'alternator bracket', and 'block' grounds are still all connected as a unit AND the current from that entire system is running through the sensor back to the battery.
But if you don't make the wires thicker at the source you'll still have a "bottleneck" at the power source.
Nice information on the gmt800 trucks. I would have never thought about that regulator when doing the big 3 upgrade. Mechman came in clutch with that info.
matthew3272 I have driven for years with it incorrect. But I think the battery will last longer at least when you do this.
@@AnthonyJ350 whats an 800? there's 1500 light duty and 2500-3500 heavy duty 4500+ commercial
@ GMT-800 is the code for the generation of GM truck
U REMOVE THE LOOM AND REMOVE THE SENSOR THEN GET BOTH GROUNDS THROUGH THAT SENSOR THEN LOOM AROUND IT TAPE IT REMOUNT GOOD TO GO 😎😎 JUST DON'T GO WITH 0 GAUGE GO 4 STILL A GOOD UPGRADE BUT CAN STILL LOOK FACTORY UTILIZING OE SENSORS PERFORMANCE IS MUCH BETTER BEFORE THE BIG 3 MY 07 AVALANCHE WOULD DROP UNDER 14 BLINKER WOULD BLINK FAST THEN IT RUNS BACK UP BACK TO NORMAL DID IT ALL THE TIME WITH NEW BATTERIES AND ALTS AFTER HAVEN'T HAD THAT AGAIN DEF WORTH THE UPGRADE 🎉🎉
Thank you for sharing
@AnthonyJ350 ur welcome i did this about a month ago and it's been holding up very well thanks for the video 🎉🎉
They also told me the se thing on my 07 classic sierra. All it does it tell the pcm when to charge when there is more current draw. Currently running 320 mechman alt, and traditional big 4. I will be putting stock alt back on for truck and running the 320 stand alone for my stereo system. I also have Custom Electronics PCM bypass with voltage controller, and battery light delete. . They run around 100 shipped. I will be running 2 agm batteries and charging at 14.6-.8 or so. Before knowing about this i had big 3 in place for over a year with zero problems. Currently to put the alt into full charge cycle i run the headlights on and i get a solid14.4,.5. ive been doing this for about 2 months. Cant wait to have both alts on and dedicated to each side of my charging needs..just another thing ive bypassed to get where i needed to be. I only commented to let people know there is a way around all this, and i will continue to run the big 4. Im also on 1/0 power and grounds from sky high car audio which is similar in size to 2/0 welding cable. If that tells you my current draw oncwy set up is complete amd stereo build is finished. Decent set up from gm if you plan to stay stock..but there are ways around if your a basshead like me. Lmao.. Bass on!
Thanks for sharing!
Depends on the type of sensing the device utilizes. Normal ameters read magnetic Flux to read current, if I'm not mistaken.
Thanks for the comment
I have an 02 Sierra. Thanks this really helped me out.
Glad it helped you!
I'm working on a GM at the moment and that helped alot. Thanks for that!
8 ten8 Let me know how it goes because I'm trying to understand it more so feedback helps.
Guys dimming lights will NEVER completely go away when you're running enough power. Typically big 3 will fix dimming up to 600watts. Big 3 and an agm will fix dimming up to about 1000-1200 watts. Adding secondary batteries can extend this further. And then installing HID or LED headlights that run off a balast will extend it further. This all depends on your alternater.
But you will ALWAYS have voltage drop with heavy bass systems. ALWAYS. You can't make power without pulling current, you can't pull current without dropping voltage. And you can't drop voltage without lights dimming. You can only LESSEN the degree to what they dim. But if youre running close to 2000w rms. Voltage drop will ALWAYS be a factor.
Thanks for sharing!
Nice you learned me something gonna try this. Thanks also to save battery and alternator life turn off your running lights that automatically turn on when starting the vehicle. Don't need them on during the day . I have almost 7 years on a cheap AAA battery that was supposed to be temporary, thanks again God bless
Thanks for watching!
@AnthonyJ350
I think the correct way to configure the negative conductors with that dumb current meter would be to move all the negative taps from the battery negative post to a common tap location on the frame or the alternator negative post......if tapped at alternator then run a single conductor 1/0 or 2/0 from the alternator negative post to the battery negative post with the current probe on this single conductor between the battery and alternator... if tapping at common tap location on the frame (make sure ground from alternator is 1/0 or 2/0 to common tap location) then run a 1/0 or 2/0 conductor between the common tap location and the battery with current probe on that single conductor.... looks like you did a really clean install...not sure if it’s configured correctly... what a nightmare with that dumb current meter! Without that current meter you wouldn’t have to do any of that, pretty lame what gm did there.. also maybe draw up a wiring diagram and show that in a video for those who don’t know how dc pwr systems work... or not.. :)
I think there is more than one way to skin a cat. My truck changes voltage appropriately and goes through the modes without a problem. My sound system never has any issues either. I'm sure your suggestion will work just as good.
Rite on... :) sounds like it’s workn like a champ.. tested and approved is always the final certainty. I jus immediately thought when you mentioned in the vid that you added another ground through the current meter that would only be correct if they are parallel conductors (essentially creating a larger ground conductor out of two conductors) or (instead of running a single 1/0... run two #4awg’s parallel) if there both coming from different locations then the current meter will not be accurate... jus a thought...not sure how it’s configured...but sounds like you got it... if it’s workn no need to mess with it :)
Thank you! No one covers this in big 3 write ups! Glad I thought about the voltage regulator getting confused and went looking before I started.
Glad the video helped!
Great work. I have a 15 tahoe with big 3 and yes i found the current sensor the hard way. The truck actually starting shedding different devices and got fault messages. I do have an extra battery. Started having a load of starting issues. I had plenty of juice on both batteries and alternator was 14.5 on second battery. But still had issues. Im thinking i need a higher amp alt. Removed battery.big3.and amps. No further issues. Saving for big amp alt.
Look into Mechman alternators
ua-cam.com/video/uzcVPcldvBU/v-deo.html
charles ovalles bcm needs to be set to accept the dual charging mode
On 2014 through 2018 GM pickups:
If installing an auxiliary battery under the hood and use a regular 400 amp isolation relay between them , have you figured out where to pull a signal from to turn that relay on and off so that it is on when in the ignition running position AND when in the start position?
I have.
You cannot use anything under the hood in the fuse convenience center as those were designed for certain applications so all those empty fuse slots that are unused are also without terminals installed under the cover on the power board.There is nothing there to tap from.
And NEVER double up on an existing fuse prong as it will deform the terminal underneath and ruin it.
I found my signal in that small box under the dash right next to the E-brake pedal.
This is also where your harness adapter plugs in to hook up your electric brake controller.
The terminals/pins I used were located in the lower unused cavity below where the brake controller plugs into it.
There are battery start AND ignition and also ignition only pins in there.
I don't know what those were really for and I'm not pulling an appreciable current on them , just enough to trigger the battery isolation solenoid relay and any accessory relays for off road lighting and stereo equipment.
When I turn the key off , I want everything off not draining the batteries.
This video show it pretty well.
ua-cam.com/video/9nsximz_spw/v-deo.html
Thank you for sharing this!
I haven’t run through that sensor I have dual batteries and the big 3 and everything works flawlessly. On 3000 watt rms
Thanks for sharing!
I'm glad I saw this in my feed. I have that same sensor in my trunk. I am about to do upgrades and always wondered what that sensor was. Now I know.
Glad the video helped, thanks for watching!
Great information man this has help me in my fix in my 2005 5.3l you are great man i have do it with your help
Thanks for watching!
I did this upgrade on my 11 impala 3 yrs ago and I didn't pass the ground thru the sensor ring and I had funky guage readings.. until I read about that loop being very neccessary
For a fact a 2011 Chevy Impala has this setup
Thanks for sharing your experience!
You can unhook that sensor. It saved the day on a gmt 900 I was working on that wasn't charging with a freshly rebuilt alternator.
GMT-800s don't like it if you unplug it. Thanks for sharing for your generation truck.
just watch your video and it answered some questions about my 17 Silverado gonna let you know if I see any changes
Let us know what your observations are.
This is the type videos we need awesome info gotta go see if my Tahoe has this
Glad you liked it! Check out my channel for more videos like this 🙂
@@AnthonyJ350 yeah i subscribed just seeing anyone did video in 07-14 tahoes not sure if the power wire goes straight to battery with fuse or goes like factory to fusible then to battery
I have 2007 Silverado with
a sensor on my factory ground.
Thanks for posting.
Ya I hope this video helps out a bunch of people. I can see shops charging a lot of money to fix this because this is a hard one to diagnose.
anyway thankyou because I never knew about that monitoring harness.
I would have just avoided it so great thing to know god less.
Glad the video helped!
I have a 2012 Sierra with a system and Big 6 (dual batteries) and I was wondering what this current clamp was all about when I did the big 3 and aded the extra battery... Guess I have some pondering to do to figure this one out. Thank you so much for the very useful info!! Truly much appreciated!! I have an 8 farad cap in the cab to think about too. This could be interesting
Thanks for watching! I wouldn't bother with the capacitor, you already have 2 batteries. I don't find caps make a difference in practice.
I get the headlight flicker either way. Only have 2000 watts in Rockford Fosgate amplifiers. But my GOD it sounds good 😊 I have no charging issues at all but don't want to. I have been building car stereo since 1992. Have been a die hard Rockford Fosgate person.
@@greggarner4477 Did you upgrade to a Mechman Alternator and ground the back of the cab to frame with ground straps?
so you are saying if i decide do add an accessory fuse box for example, i need to pass the ground wire through this sensor?
You can just ground additional devices straight to chassis.
Good Stuff,Great Tips😄👍🏿
Thanks so much!
Completed today...thank you! May have to change my alternator pulley back to stock one. Charging little past 14 volts
Thanks for watching!
Badass Video, great Description!!!!
Thank you!
A side note.
If you upsizing to a 270+ Amp alt, wouldnt you want to use 1/0guage? Even though you have additional runs of 4Guage?
Yes you would, I made a caption later in the video at 6:18 stating this is fine for stock or mid-range alternators.
AnthonyJ350 oh i missed that.
I'll talk about it more when I eventually change the alternator. This video is geared more to people who performed a BIG 3 upgrade and are most likely running a stock alternator. I'm hoping people with HIGH output alternators have already compensated with 0 ga and follow the diagram shown at the beginning. Lots of variables depending on people's setups.
@@johnebuckland 0 AWG is always good, even with a lower alternator...
All that sensor does is measure the magnetic field produced from the current. And either way your car uses that sensor and a voltmeter to regulate your charging system. If the colts is low it will boost up charging.
if he reuses those multible grounds. hes right back where he started (i think.) hes just adding a beefier ground.
did i understand that right?
Thanks for the feedback!
Mechman offers one wire two pin to take care of this problem
Thanks for sharing!
Hes right. Had my 370 wired that way on my 2018 GMC Sierra and voltage stays at 14-14.8
I found your video while trying to figure out what that "Current Sensor" is that is threaded onto the ground cable right next to the battery on my 2008 Chevy Trailblazer. GM calls it: " Part # 25826405 - Genuine GM Module, Generator Battery Control". Thank you for explaining its purpose! I am having an issue with the battery's ground cable... I suspect that the copper is corroded inside of the insulation on the Trailblazer's side-mount battery's ground cable. The vehicle's engine coolant temperature gauge works intermittently, and when ever It does not work, simply disconnecting and re-connecting the ground cable on the battery brings that gauge back to life. I have been dealing with this issue for the past few years, and I hope tat I have finally found the problem.
When you replace the ground cable put dielectric grease what it makes contact with the frame and battery and put a little bit on the exposed wire to help prevent corrosion.
Love the video. Glad I found it before I did my upgrade. Question, for the ground is it possible to use say the smd post bar to bring all the grounds to a common spot? That way the wire that has to flow through the sensor picks up those too. I plan to use a two batt set up aswell.
Oh ya you can do that. Have 1 thick wire from the neg battery post, go to another distribution post and have your additional ground feed from there.
Thx for the fast reply...
@@jayman2sr You're welcome
I have another question. I've done what I said in previous comment and everything seems to be holding well. My question is with the long run to hook up the 2nd battery In rear. Will it throw off the sensor if I added a second shorter ground closer to my aux battery? Or will it still pick up cause of the first wire running up front?
@@jayman2sr I don't think so. Police cars do that with 2 batteries the second is added and seems fine. Monitor it after your install.
Thanks dude, feel a lot better about upgrading while at the same time having a communication error with the bcm...
Glad the video helped understand the different things the charging system does.
I've got an 08 silverado 5.3 the electrical has been a nightmare since day 1. I used to get the random truck freak out where the gushes would go nuts and doors lock and unlock. Changed the negative terminal and it solved that problem. But something still isn't right to me. Upon starting im up at 14.8 V. During driving, if im not running A/c it drops to about 13. But if I turn on the AC it'll drop to about 12.2 or so and not go back up. Ive got a 1400 w system also. Im not a mechanic nor an electrician. I can install a car stereo but just know what I've taught myself. But I would think if im running a heavy draw , the V guage would read higher for the increase demand, and lower say at night where im just running head lights. I never have any outright failures when low , but everything seems weak. I notice a drop in sound quality when my voltage is down around that 12.2 area as opposed to 14+ when it sounds better. Most people wouldn't notice this difference, but i do especially in low end on my subs. Headlights don't dim. Just curious what anyone may think? Is my assumption about the voltage backwards and its operating correctly and should read low on heavy use and high on low use? Maybe im dead wrong , but i believe I have some significant issue somewhere. I've got other issues with the truck. Random misfires, etc. And any time ive dealt with the electrical on this truck, it's been a mess. I can turn on tow/haul and that'll raise it back up to 13.8 ish.
I would check the grounds, this video might help ua-cam.com/video/Dql0Uu8-SNk/v-deo.html
Thanks man great information and video
Thanks!
For mine the only time it drops a bit when I turn the climate controls on. it goes up to the 3/4 mark when I first start it. but now that its being driven more( it sat for a couple months from the previous owner) it stabilizes dead straight in the middle at 14v.
jose _Leo815 Did you upgrade the grounds?
Thanks for the info. I just bought a Tahoe, 05 and upgrading the electrics as well. 2 questions tho? When you went from the alternator ground to the body which does not pass through the sensor. Does the sensor not need to monitor that run of cable? Also does your truck's voltage monitor (on the dash) still show a drop in voltage when the battery is fully charged indicating that the RVC sensor is working properly? Thanks!
It's only the cables hooked up to the battery that need to go through the sensor, you can ground motor or cab to chassis and it will work. The gauge on the dash still shows how much voltage is being put out from the alternator depending on the mode. This video demonstrates what's going on better for the RVC system ua-cam.com/video/8NRajpYXGb4/v-deo.html
Im confused I think you said you ran your big3 without issues for years. I was going to do a big 3 on my stock alternator outside of the sensor before i saw your video. My Mechman 250 comes next week. I have 0 gauge ready to install.
i have a 2016 gmc sierra and it has the same system and it threw me for a loop i thought there was an issue with my charging system but im wondering if a better way to do this would be to run all of your grounds to one point say a distribution block and then run 1 0 guage or a double 0 guage from the negative post of the battery and through the rvc ammeter then to distro block that way theres no way for any current to bypass it, i think this is what i will do because i still need to run a ground to the alternator and as it is now i have no more room in the rvc ammeter to fit any more cable through it currently has a 0 guage and the factory engine ground going through it lol, i have read that unplugging the ammeter will allow it to constantly charge at full blast but some people say its not good because it can over charge the batteries, i think i will try the distribution block and see how it goes if there is any improvement at all, so far it seems to fluctuate but i have noticed that when my headlights are on it always stays close to 14volts, ive upgraded my car stereo substantially thats why i need the extra juice ive already added a second battery its the xsd5100 and that has made a big difference its just the way the alternator charges im not too happy with because with bass you really want to keep a constant nice voltage but it likes to stay around 12.6 to 13 sometimes which i dont like
Try it out and let us know your results.
Did you get the distribution block for the grounds?
I am a Tech for Chevrolet Lol. One of the problem that I see in the Dealer was aftermarket radio . Before you install one aftermarket aks the Dealer The People that installs aftermarket They don’t know how the ECM work and modules . When I desconec the after market radio . Chicken got out the alternator is working perfect . Have a good day .
It also depends on what modules you install to integrate. We install head units on 2015 and up GM full size trucks all the time and we communicate with the CANBUS system to give vehicle information. People in my area ask dealerships for updates and more functionality and the dealerships don't want to figure out a solution or the manufacturer stops supporting the product so they actually refer our shop.
Just some feedback the Human Interface Machine in the new GM trucks fails a lot and I've seen trucks come into our shop untouched by anyone with issues. Way overly complicated of a design for wiring and modules.
Someone just asked a question and I figured you'd know. Do the Duramaxs come equipped with a RVC system? If they do how is the second battery wired to monitor current flow? We're trying to figure out how the diesels are setup to modify another system.
I'm glad I watch this I'm about to do the big 3 in my Chevy Express..I noticed the ground you ran to the body don't run through the clamp so that doesn't matter in not going through the clamp?
No, only the grounds that attach to the battery need to go through the clamp
thank you. mine has one, so glad i watched it before doing big 3. it would be a waste of money. from the philippines. btw, u have 4ga in the sensor, the first is connected to the alternator ground, what is connected to the 2nd? u did not explain in the video
Thanks for watching! I have another one going to the frame. Don't forget to subscribe!
Hey Chris!
interesting information thank you for sharing
Glad to hear you found it useful 👍
I was replacing battery every 2 years. I did not figure it out until shortly before I traded it in I pulled the amps out before I traded. I did not do any audio in my new truck.
Every vehicle needs a good small sub woofer though 🙂
Thank you for this
Glad to hear you liked the info
90 Silverado
Current setup.
Alt is internally regulated
Alt 2 wires red and brown
- red goes to starter (not directly to battery with inline fuse)
- brown goes to dash battery light.
Ground goes thru mount bolt (not to battery)
How do I do the big 3 upgrade?
Where would the ground sensor be hooked up?
90's Chevy won't have the sensor. So you can go nuts upgrading the grounds.
Stranded electrical wire cannot be trusted by just looking at the end portions. Any corrosion that may start in the middle of the wire run is obviously hard to see but can happen causing a high resistance. I found that out when I had a Camaro that wouldn't charge the battery. I went through all the usual things, new battery, alternator, cleaning the connections etc. but the battery still died overnight. Out of frustration, I changed the entire positive run in the engine bay and found out that the positive cable had built in points for other things to access the power wire from the battery to the starter. Once changed, never had a charging problem again. I had to have an OEM positive harness, not an aftermarket one.
Couldn't you put leads on both ends of the wire and see how much resistance is flowing through the cable. I just find it hard for the exposed wire to look good while the inside is completely corroded. You'd think the outside would look bad as well and not look like clean copper.
@@AnthonyJ350 all I have is an analog and a digital VOM. In such a short distance, even just one strand of wire will show a solid almost zero ohms. Once corrosion starts in a stranded wire, the insulated covering and the ends may look great, but the damage is done on the inside. One way to find out if there is a high resistance in the wire is to apply an electrical load and feel for any warm or hot spots. It was much simpler to just change out the harness.
On another vehicle, a worn out connection caused the heater blower to sound like a supercharger. That same worn out connection caused my headlights to glow like the sun before they blew while the engine was running. The current from the alternator didn't quite make it to the battery so the current took the least path of resistance which was the headlights. A shop that specialized in auto electronics found the worn connection and repaired it for $20. Another reason I don't take my vehicles to the dealer.
@@2-old-Forthischet Fresh wiring is always good, but you can test resistance quickly with a DMM even on multi strand wire. We check impedance on speakers and factory wiring all the time that has a multiple strand count when mapping out sound systems and doing remote starters, granted there is a device inline we're testing. We'll also measure the frame to see if we can ground anywhere on it that's acceptable.
Thanks for sharing the knowledge. It's greatly appreciated. However one question I have is, can anyone define "newer GM trucks" for me? Mine is on 2002 and has 75000 miles on it so it still feels new to me.
I want to say this trend started in 2005 these systems being implemented.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thank You! You've been a big help!
I too have been messing with this
05 Tahoe …+#%^*+== !!!!
I’ve replaced everything!
I will be changing this ground tomorrow!
Thx buddy
@@vongillman any update?
@@davidbollier3859 after redoing all the grounds and adding one from the alternator to the firewall , I finally figured out it was a bad alternator!!! The old one ( which was rebuilt by a shop I’ve been using for 30 yrs ) was bad. It worked fine till it was warm, then nada !!
I went to Oreillys and got a rebuilt.
Works perfect 👍
Do the 1999 silverados have this on them? I've been getting voltage drop whenever I initially draw power from the battery so I'm gonna do the big 3 upgrade to see if that fixes it. You're saying I need to run the ground wire through this voltage regulator?
I don't think they do. Wasn't till 2005 it seems.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thanks!
I know I'm late to the game but for my understanding, I have the sensor you mention. My plan is to delete the ground Wire and replace it with the 1/0 wire. Sounds good to me but just checking as that's what the instructions state. Additionally, why would I not want to upgrade my engine to chasis ground? The instructions don't say to but I don't understand why if I'm upgrading the charge and battery ground wire? Thank you for making this video. I'm currently pushing 1800 amps for my stereo and hope this will give me better performance
That's correct you can replace the original and fit 0 gauge through the sensor. You can also upgrade your engine to chassis ground if you would like.
@@AnthonyJ350 wow! Super fast response. Great job keeping this thread alive. Thank you again!
Could’ve just used a terminal block and hooked all the grounds up to it and then a single 1/0 cable back through the sensor to the battery. Other wise the point is still made. Great video 👍
You can do that if you want.
I was dealing with no start no crank I removed the ground through the part you are referring o. so if I did the ground repair it would have been NFG thanck you so much I believe the ground was bad now it all makes sense. I still think the neutral safety switch is no good as well but
before I look at that I will do the ground properly check he start by bypassing the switch and go from there God Bless and thank you so mutch. I will let you know what happens
What ended up happening with your fix?
I wonder how upgrading the alternator on a hybrid would affect it... I want a mechman alt and a new starting battery along with a big 3.
KmanBeatz Just email them, they respond pretty quick
Thank you dude! I have a Tahoe and just installed 2 Mechman alts with 2 AGM batteries in the front and 4 in the rear and this variable voltage was pissing me off after installing all this nice equipment.
At least it gave you an idea what's going on
Dual battery setup on 07-13 tahoe 5.3 how did you this
Great video I never heard this.
Alpha Omega We'll see how it works out
I believe this would really only apply to 2007.5+ GM fullsize trucks & SUV's with the "passive" style alternators. Meaning the older LS based trucks/SUV's (99-early half 2007) that use a "constant/active" style alt don't even have the current sensor circuit built into them or in the PCM/ECU.
If I'm wrong someone please correct me but it is only the later style trucks ('07.5+) that I have seen the fluctuating volt gauge that moves as amperage out put is needed Vs. older "traditional" style alternators that just have a straight/constant out put (only varied by engine RPM).
Again, PLEASE correct me if you know otherwise
The truck in the video is a 2005. I believe any truck with electric fans (as far as the GMT-800 platform goes) will have the updated electrical system which would include the newer charging system. So let's say 2005 because 2004 was still a belt driven fan and I don't notice seeing a clamp in those trucks.
I have a 2004 suburban and added dual electric fans and programmed the pcm to control them and added a oem electric fan wiring harness. My vehicle does not have a charging sensor and I went with a bigger alternator from mechman where you have to get the adapter pigtail from mechman to connect to the alternator wire harness to the alternator then run the blue wire to a 12V ignition source to control when the alternator turns on and off depending on the voltage it sees. Somehow it messed with my pcm and was giving it codes to do with the alternator so I ended up putting the old alternator back on and it is still able to handle everything on my vehicle and I guess the pcm somehow controls the alternator on charging on these years by seeing the voltage it has and lets alternator know without the ground sensor because when I am driving it fluctuates from 14.5v when first starting it to 13.5v after the battery is happy, then changing when driving depending on what's needed at the time of voltage demand going up or down in voltage.
Note: with aftermarket fan harness the original alternator can't handle the load because on how they wire the harness. After oem fan harness was installed on my vehicle and the pcm was programmed for fans and now controls the fans the original alternator functions just fine with keeping up with amperage and voltage demands.
How come your truck reads Kilometers on the speedometer?? Just curious and thanks for the great video keep up..
Oh that's because I'm in Canada. All our stuff is metric here.
@@AnthonyJ350 Thank you for the fast response.
Interesting.
Lucky my Epica didnt have any sensors like that on or near any of the cables.
Ya this seems to be specific to the full size half ton trucks.
Luck you,some of us,have to put up,with this kind of,BULL SHIT.
Thanks for the video. Just did a friends trucks big 3. Didn't know about that sensor. I'll be rewiring his this weekend.
1970chevy Let me know how it goes. Trying to collect info on this.
AnthonyJ350 ok. He sent me a pic after I sent him this video and he does have that sensor that we missed. He hit almost 10 volts on a good hit.
That's going down pretty low. Is the battery pretty new? I just put a NorthStar battery in my truck. How big is the sound system?
1600 cab amp 2 12in missives newer battery and alt.
Ya definitely re-route the grounds, the charging system probably isn't seeing the entire load being put onto it. I'm really interested to see if you guys see a difference after doing that. I plan to install a Mechman alternator in my truck in a few months.
Another great vid for my 99 230k miled Z-71 la, thx and keep em coming!!!
Thanks, don't worry we have a lot of GM truck videos.
the sensor is used by BCM and ECM to regulate voltage, charge current, battery state of charge. Without the sensor monitoring all current in and out of the battery, the system will likely under charge or over charge the battery. My 2012 chevy has a bad sensor and thinks the battery is under-charged, and consequently over charges the battery. A new exide battery had to be replaced after only two months.
If you unplug the sensor it should default to 13.5 volts.
I disconnected the connector at the alternator, and it defaulted to the internal regulator, but it triggered the money light. I assume the BCM will see open circuit with the sensor and also trigger the money light. I had it to the dealer for a full inspection prior to this. They do not check voltage or test battery under load, only did a visual inspection. What a crock. At least the Midas, Car-X shops will do a load test. Battery died within a month, the new battery had to be replaced withing two months. They dont sell the sensor alone, need to purchase the negative battery cable assembly. Will try disconnecting the current sensor. I use an UltraGuage and can monitor voltage easily when I drive.
@@briansydnes1711 Ya that will just be a temporary fix until you can get a new sensor. Does Dorman make one?
Not that I have found. I disconnected it, no change, still charging a fully charged battery. No money light either. the service manual says it should trigger a code if the signal is out of spec. The manual says that if the sensor fails, it will cause a charge condition all the time which is what I'm seeing. Tested BCM supply voltage (5.1v), low reference ground signal is good, and it is putting out a 124Hz signal. Voltage output is only 2.6v, only varies .5v when key on, no start or when running with full electrical load. Only thing to check is for high resistance or open on signal wire going back to BCM
I'm doing this big 3 upgrade in about 2 weeks with a professional install. My truck is a 2005 2500HD. Will I need to mention anything about this sensor you talked about? Only running 2 12s and door speakers with a amp running them seperate
To my knowledge the heavy duty trucks do not have the sensor. Only the 1500s.
I did this upgrade on my 2005 Chevy Silverado I was able to pass a 1/0 gauge wire through with the stock wires already inside I just smashed the wire a little. I ran from chassis to battery and chassis to block since the original wire goes from the battery to the block.
Thanks for sharing!
Quick question for you Anthony you think I created a ground loop wiring a second ground to the block if the original ground to the block?
@@eddiegrijalva2300 2 cables is basically the same as one big cable. If they are both going from point A to point B.
Anyway I can see how you did your loft in your shop. I got the same size building I think. I see it in the background the steps
From time to time
If you email me I can send you some pictures.
Thanks for the info. Question for you or anyone looking at this? My voltage is good around 14.6V but my lights flicker, is there any way to fix this problem with your experience. TIA.
Convert the headlights to LED and the marker lights as well. Also upgrade the grounds on the truck to help.
Can you clear something up for me? You mention "4-gauge" and "0" gauge cable, is this "4 AWG" welding cable OR 4/0? And is "0" gauge "1/0" welding cable? Thnx, love your informative vids!!! I'm planning on upgrading my wires and will use your vid as my guide.
4 AWG, basically the thicker you go you can't go wrong. Just fitting that thickness of the wire may be a challenge.
After checking out your other content I'm not sure you have this truck anymore. Did you end up replacing your alternator? I'm getting alot of dimming and I have a Mechman 320 I upgraded all power and ground checked all my resistance. Taking it to a shop as soon as covid-19 allows the shop to open. Congrats on the house!
Yup, I still have the same truck and the same Mechman alternator I did the original video on. Did you run all of your grounded through the clamp? I actually did a dyno video and the Mechman was on the truck when we ran it.
@@AnthonyJ350 thanks for taking the time out of your day to reply. There is one ground running through the clamp from the battery to the frame. At the frame is two more grounds. One runs to the alternator and one runs to the original spot on the motor. The grounds are all connected at the same location on the frame.
Great video. I have this same issue with my F150. I plan on disconnecting the factory grounds and placing all my wires on a central grounding point before the Hall effect sensor and running a 1/0 from this point, through the sensor, and to my battery.
Let us know how that works out!
I was able to squeeze the 1/0 through the sensor, next to existing factory grounds, using some dishsoap. The other method would’ve worked as well. As long as the primary ground has an ampacity large enough to handle the sum of all the grounds you’d be good to go.
Electricity takes all paths, but most will take the easiest path.
Thanks for sharing, you still need to put the ground wires off the battery through the clamp.
AnthonyJ350 yes
Is this video before you upgraded alternators and went to an adjustable pcm? Did you leave the sensor hooked up once you made the upgrades?
I didn't modify the PCM at all. Just installed a Mechman and left the sensor intact.
@@AnthonyJ350 ok thanks man!
might be a little to late to ask lol!
im having a problem of my voltage dropping while just driving or when i put some bass to it.. could that be caused by the RVC? (i dont have anything other than stock ground going through it) i did the big 3 upgrade and it hasnt helped...
i have 2 AGM batteries and a huge capacitor and still going to around 10.. if i run the 0 guage through the sensor will it solve that problem?
thank you subbed and like!
Thank you for watching!
That's quite a difference in application now that your voltage is accounted for.
thizzface Ya I'm going to monitor the truck's electrical closely to see if there's any difference.
Thanks I just upgraded my alternator on my 2014 Silverado to a 250amp mechman alternator I don't have the big 3 yet planning to do soon and I have a 12v d4800 xs power battery when I start my truck its seams that im getting higher voltage around 15 and seams to freeze my radio and my windows I can't control them until the voltage starts lowering. Im check the sensor and do the big 3 hope its helps out.
Some electronics are more sensitive than others. When you hit 15 volts that's the threshold for operation.
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Full size gm cars have this as well (I own an impala). This sensor is why I haven't put a lot of accessories on mine. Just to let you know there is also a fuse for the sensor that has caused me some issues with the system in the past. Eventually i put a new cable on and havent had any issues since.
BashingBrainez Where was the fuse? You kept blowing the fuse for the current sensor?
AnthonyJ350 in the under hood fuse box there is a fuse that if for (battery cable) if i remember correct its a 5 amp fuse on my car.
BashingBrainez And defective battery cable or the harness for the sensor you replaced?
BashingBrainez Do you plan to upgrade the grounds after this video? The GM grounds aren't that great.
AnthonyJ350 correct the sensor was defective and was not accurately reading voltage or amps correct (there was a internal short in the sensor causing the fuse to blow). In turn the alternator would be very out of control it could have very high volts or would stop producing volts all together.
Thanks a bunch!!
Glad it helped!
That ring is a Hall sensor. It can count amps in, amps out, and voltage.
I dont think we have smart alternators. I looked into adding LiFePo4 battery and I could add a second but to be primary id need a real smart alternator.
I installed a voltage meter inside the car. Its at 14.6 usually. Are you saying a 2009 GM vehicles alternator will change the voltage or will know if you have lead acid or AGM battery.
I thought the hall sensor was to for other stuff not chNging a current on the alternator.
I don't know if it knows the battery type installed. I've had AGMs in my 2005, no issues.
I have a 2015 Silverado 2500LT, I'm doing Big 3 , 320Amp Irragi alternator , and second battery... I plan to run the following: 1. Power from Stock Battery to Power of Second Battery 2. Ground from Stock Battery to Second Battery. 3. Power from alternator to Stock battery. Ground from Alternator to frame. 4. Ground from alternator to body. ALL 1/0 Gauge and Fused in proper locations. Which of these wires needs ran through the sensor? And do you see any issues with this setup? I'm doing this work this week.
Everything looks good. I think you covered everything and it'll will be a better setup than most people with sound systems have. You just need to get the ground from the main battery through the sensor, since you have everything daisy chaining from the main battery, you should be good. ua-cam.com/video/i3QQAtogW40/v-deo.html
I'd like to know how your system goes after you're done.
Thanks bro been looking for this still looking for a way to run 0 Guage though. What do you think about running 1 - 0 thru the sensor to a distribution block then running others from there??
That makes a lot of sense. I would do that. You're maxing out the sensor capacity as far as what fits. Definitely don't modify the sensor.
Great information......
Thanks for watching!
what year is your truck? 05? GM started this in 05, I believe, at least in the GM trucks. I don't remember seeing this in a 04 truck i had. My 06 Yukon, and 06 Monte Carlo have this. I did see one GM car where a shop replaced the negative cable and did not run it through that amperage clamp, and it set off a "check charging system" on the DIC. The battery would also run down.
My truck is an '05. I believe you're right, if you read the article in the description they say 2005 and I believe Mechman also states 2005+ for this current sensor.
Ya on that Monte Carlo, it saw no amperage flowing through the system so it basically thought everything was o.k. and didn't need to charge the battery.
I'll tell you why you need to replace batteries every 4 years....OPTIMA... I have had nothing but problems with them once they sold to Johnson Controls. I have one in my Trans am that is 8 years old that works great today. Then I've replaced 5 optimas that haven't last more than 2 years in 3 different vehicles.
After that take over I switched to NorthStar. But now Northstar got bought out by Oddessey.