I liked this one a lot. I wouldn't worry to much on sharing 'to much' knowledge. There is a huge gap between having the basic knowledge and having in depth knowledge combined with the ability to actually apply the knowledge in practice with succes. I recently had my Mini setup on the road. Literally on the road. An experienced Mini engine builder and racer ran over the car like you do to confirm a good basis for tuning. He selected a slightly lean needle and drove the car maintaining constant speeds on set rpms and made the needle richer according to the feedback of the engine. Not as accurate as using measurement equipment, but still... never had my engine run this good, the transformation is incredible. He talked me through the whole process, incl modifying the needle, but still I won't attempt this myself on a fresh engine. Waiting for a dyno day now to see how its setup. Thanks for these great vids A.C!
As ever a great video. I'm particularly interested in the wideband lambda sensor at such a late position in the exhaust and after the backbox. Most talk about how the sensor needs to be as close as possible if not into the actual combined sections of exhaust manifold its self. Do you find any issues, adjustments required or other slight inaccuracies to keep in mind with it being in such a late position? Cheers
It gets clogged and needs to be cleaned regularly, also if the exhaust system has leaks then you get false readings, I also have to use 2 more than 2 metres of pipe after the sensor to ensure good readings.
I found that pretty interesting. Only question is, when you determine whether the needles are rich or lean at certain points the car isn't under load as it is static. Surely whether it is under load or not makes a difference?
You would think it makes a difference, but it does not. You can’t do the full power fueling in this way though. For that you need load. Since 95% of road driving is done at part throttle you see why the reactions are as they are with owners.
@@ACDodd I was going to ask the same question! When I made the needles for my HS4's I put together a setup to log MAP/AFR/RPM and needle position and tested at a steady 35-40-50-60-70mph until it was 'perfect' at each point, see here: ua-cam.com/video/vzEq4jGxnA4/v-deo.html I would have expected the needle to rise further under load and simply testing at 2000-3000-4000 etc while stationary would have had me modifying the wrong part of the needle. I could have saved sooooo much time :) Thanks for sharing more of your learned wisdom.
Justin "..... But apart from that, it's was great!" haha. Sounds a bit like the late great Murray Walker. "there's nothing wrong with the car, except its on fire."
Factory spec is 0.8ohm, I have used 1.5 with success but sometimes the 1.5ohm coils don’t last running the 0.035” plug gap. I suspect in the cases of coil failure the secondary winding voltage is too high for the insulation.
@@ACDodd thanks, I’ll swap it over as the current one is old. Once I’ve checked through everything, I’ll message you for a tune up, hopefully I’m not too far for you in Lowestoft :-)
Good to have Chloe there to film the work involved in a full tune up. Not everyday you get an offer of marriage one very happy customer.
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
I liked this one a lot. I wouldn't worry to much on sharing 'to much' knowledge. There is a huge gap between having the basic knowledge and having in depth knowledge combined with the ability to actually apply the knowledge in practice with succes.
I recently had my Mini setup on the road. Literally on the road. An experienced Mini engine builder and racer ran over the car like you do to confirm a good basis for tuning. He selected a slightly lean needle and drove the car maintaining constant speeds on set rpms and made the needle richer according to the feedback of the engine. Not as accurate as using measurement equipment, but still... never had my engine run this good, the transformation is incredible. He talked me through the whole process, incl modifying the needle, but still I won't attempt this myself on a fresh engine.
Waiting for a dyno day now to see how its setup.
Thanks for these great vids A.C!
Watching you work on these cars give me more hope that you’ll be able to sort any issues my car has when you come down
Great video. Take Chole with you on all your tune ups.
Ha ha thanks Bernard!
Sadly not possible
As ever a great video. I'm particularly interested in the wideband lambda sensor at such a late position in the exhaust and after the backbox. Most talk about how the sensor needs to be as close as possible if not into the actual combined sections of exhaust manifold its self. Do you find any issues, adjustments required or other slight inaccuracies to keep in mind with it being in such a late position? Cheers
It gets clogged and needs to be cleaned regularly, also if the exhaust system has leaks then you get false readings, I also have to use 2 more than 2 metres of pipe after the sensor to ensure good readings.
I found that pretty interesting. Only question is, when you determine whether the needles are rich or lean at certain points the car isn't under load as it is static. Surely whether it is under load or not makes a difference?
You would think it makes a difference, but it does not. You can’t do the full power fueling in this way though. For that you need load. Since 95% of road driving is done at part throttle you see why the reactions are as they are with owners.
@@ACDodd I was going to ask the same question! When I made the needles for my HS4's I put together a setup to log MAP/AFR/RPM and needle position and tested at a steady 35-40-50-60-70mph until it was 'perfect' at each point, see here: ua-cam.com/video/vzEq4jGxnA4/v-deo.html I would have expected the needle to rise further under load and simply testing at 2000-3000-4000 etc while stationary would have had me modifying the wrong part of the needle.
I could have saved sooooo much time :) Thanks for sharing more of your learned wisdom.
Justin "..... But apart from that, it's was great!" haha. Sounds a bit like the late great Murray Walker. "there's nothing wrong with the car, except its on fire."
Great video again, you mentioned 0.8ohm coil on 65dm4, mine is measuring 1.5ohm, shall I swap it for 0.8ohm?
Factory spec is 0.8ohm, I have used 1.5 with success but sometimes the 1.5ohm coils don’t last running the 0.035” plug gap. I suspect in the cases of coil failure the secondary winding voltage is too high for the insulation.
@@ACDodd thanks, I’ll swap it over as the current one is old. Once I’ve checked through everything, I’ll message you for a tune up, hopefully I’m not too far for you in Lowestoft :-)
@@nathanblowers9848 hi Nathan that’s a huge distance I am in Salisbury! That’s nearly 440mile round trip! Pm me on messenger to discuss
I noticed the AFR was only reading 9.3/10 across the range,I thought it should be more like 14.7?
It's displaying lambda value so 0.93/1.0
@@spragx Cool, Lambda 0.10 = 14.70 gasoline!
I did not use AFR scale
How much do you charge for this tuning service ACDodd?
Send me a message via messenger with your postcode so I can quote
@@ACDodd what's your email address and I'll contact you 👍
@@OnlineHousehusband I am not putting that here