When I first started playing paintball back in '97 the dream was to be able to fill tanks at home so I could tech my gear and play at private fields that we'd set up at friends' property, without worrying about constantly running out of air. Now that I'm getting back into the sport after about a 10 yr hiatus, I love that these things exist and are relatively cheap, but keeping them running for a long time seems to be a hobby in itself, lol. If the goal is to cool the outlet air as much as possible to condense as much water, would you consider replacing the short run from the high side to the distribution block with a larger coil of stainless tubing that could sit in a bucket of cold water? Similar to a condensation coil in a still? Would be a lot bulkier, but seems like it could cool the hpa much more effectively.
P.S. I plan on running my air through a 2 stage system. First through a condensate style air water separator, and then through a descant style. But after watching this, I'm wondering if running it through a stainless coil submerged in ice water before the condensate separator would increase the condensate's efficiency even more. Then again, this could all be massive overkill. I just hate the idea of getting a bunch of water in an expensive scuba tank.
Thanks for the comment Jay! Your solution would likely yield the best temperature differential possible that is for sure. On my design I tried to get rid of the buckets of water everywhere as that kinda drives me nuts. Also, getting stainless formed and adapting fittings to the metric fittings, while likely perfectly possible, is a mountain of a task in and of itself. If you go that way, I'd LOVE to see where you land. I have an update to this in the works, so be sure and subscribe so you don't miss it, that will take this copper wrap to a whole new level! In fact, I'm pulling so much heat out of that pipe now I actually need more radiator surface area to cool more effectively! The next iteration of this rig is going to be NUTS! Keep me posted on your progress if you go down that road!
@@jaybinning2890 I DEFIANTLY believe that if you can get a chiller before the coalescer it will help the entire system performance. Not a doubt in my mind. I'll actually be adding a coalescer and upgrading the filter/dryer as well.
I added aluminium heat sinks to all the hot pipes and I have a large volume computer fan blowing over the sinks and head from the fill side of the compressor . The sinks are old PC processor units cut in half and clamped on the pipes. I can hold my hand on them even after 15min of fill time . water never goes over 35 deg C and head temp around 45 deg C .
@@tatertots-n-soup Sorry Your wrong. I run a radiator on the water side and with multiple fans, its warm to hot but not hot enough I cant hold my hand on it, and Im a small engine technician, I know a thing or 2 about engine cooling sunshine . If you keep the temp down you can run it longer without excessive wear. You dont know much , so mind your own fking business little man
Well I'll be dammed, I did this to my compressor without any foreknowledge anyone else was doing it. I used nickalloy brake line that I was able to bend to follow the stainless lines over 70%. And to adhere them I used that copper hanging 1/2" strap stuff of the softer variety adding more surface area for the air passing over. First I've seen your channel and apparently brilliant minds think alike.
Check out something like the Thermaltake PC Water series of CPU coolers. All sorts of stuff you can do; heat pipes, heat sinks, or for the ultimate nerd out, how about a geothermal ground loop? 😄
Well, well......isn't that something?!?! Awesome tip for those of us who are getting sizzled by the fire-breathing pump! Cooler is better!! Thanks for sharing!
Another great video in the YHHRS series of videos. I have a couple of YH's and may just bend some SS coil tubes in an attempt to drop the temperatures to allow condensing to take place. I feel the vacuum of interest drawing me in...... I......must resist..........
Seen something similar where a guy got a sheet of thin alloy and cut out a heap of small circles and cut the circles half way through like to the middle hole so he could bend them slightly and slip over those tubes so after they were covered in cooling fins but can't do it on the bends and they ran much cooler and probably produced less crap ,i will probably do something similar with my topa hydraulic, glad i came across this channel it's very informative and thanks for the info on the oil and moisture separator in the other vid ,luckily i only have 1 4500 68ci tank and it doesn't take that long to fill but keeping it cooler can't be a bad thing
You had me w/ the water block. Spent too much time fooling w/ water-cooling personal computers to accommodate over-clocking heat, so I can't wait to pull a bunch of that ol' stuff out'a the closet to play w/ one of these. I also have an old frig in the shop that I use for cold crashing home brew. Maybe throw a copper coil in there to plug into... So the next question is, how cold is too cold? Peltier? 😅
Some folks give em a pretty bad rap, but IF you get a decent one, and you follow the directions, they CAN last a while. Be sure and watch that oil level, and always run the unit nice and level. Do not overfill the oil, there is a suspicion that it may be what leads to premature piston failure. Oil may get up in the HP cylinder and diesel. Just something to be mindful of. My clone (Cheapest of the cheap) went over three years. Welcome to the channel!
My thought for my system regarding the cast iron parts, as the design is basically based on an air cooled engine such as older motorcycles but the Yong Heng remains stationary . I wondering if adding some airflow over the fins would have any noticeable benefit, maybe a simple duct and fan setup would be useful?
So I just recently found your UA-cam channel what is that that the compressor is setting in is there something you design some type of chiller looking forward to the year information and thank you for your time
Welcome Manuel, that cage the Yong Heng sits in was designed and fabricated by me. The cooling system it supports was also mine and uses off the shelf parts that can be found in other videos and descriptions on my channel. There are a bunch of them. The idea of using a bucket of water and a low quality pump did not appeal to me, so I made this for myself. Turns out, it has brought a lot of people to the channel, which is good. Have a look around and if you like what you see, tell all your friends! Lol. Have a good day!
@@TargetForge Thank you very much I will look for the video I’m getting ready to to build a a closed system with a high speed DC fan so I will check yours out first
I was thinking about mounting a transmission cooler on a compressor cart and some water cooling additive to the water and have a fan blowing through the cooler and a small high speed pc fan blowing on the cylinder head. I also use ice water and cool the head to 9-12°C before starting to fill my L2 or Wildcat MKII.
My recommendation is to just get a cheap heater core from the car world, it's designed for water heat transfer efficiency, your transmission cooler is designed to cool oil and has very different design elements. Many in the Yong Heng community believe that ice cooling may go to far in the other direction, potentially cooling the head too much and changing clearances out of the range of operational norms. I'm not saying these units are super well designed, but they are designed to operate at a constant temperature and I'd wager that temp is not super cold. Blowing air at the head won't really do much as the design is just not meant for air cooling. You could add some aluminum of copper fins to hot parts, but why? You already have water cooling, why not just add some copper pipe and use that?
@@TargetForge Thanks for the advice. You brought up things that my noob to hp compressors, self had not thought of. I like your idea on the heater core and I happen to have a 12v power supply already. Any core you recommend? My reasoning for using frozen bottles of water in my cooling water is so I don’t have that unbearable twenty minute cool down once the cylinder head get up to 35-40°C.
I put some inline peltier chillers and a radiator with a fan on a relay and its a closed circuit loop and mine never gets above 80 degrees. I also added a bearing to the piston arm on the crank shaft to reduce friction. Worka great
Air cooling vs water cooling is well known in engineering. Water cooling is MUCH more efficient. Those lines are not aluminum, they are stainless steel as pressures reach 4500 psi. Thank you for your comment!
The blue tank is just a reservoir. An automotive heater core is the the actual heat exchanger. Check out the playlist for the Yong Heng on my channel. ua-cam.com/play/PLewLk5CXG9qEqH3wUKxX1ogHUuo66HRxl.html
I just got my Yong Hengs, bought 2 Amazon returns for a little more than the price of 1, so took them both. I need to look a little closer, but short of moving the air intake, why not just mist the entire pump end of the unit???
Thank you for your question. Ethylene Glycol is actually not a very good coolant. It's only advantage is that it does not freeze as early as plain water. Plus its a nightmare to get rid of in an ethical manner.
@@wruehl Thank You for Your answer. Sadly here, where I live, I cant get hold to that Water Wetter additive to go with distilled water and Water Wetter. I have 3 options: 1) tap water; 2) distilled water; 3) ethylene glycol based coolant. I think that option nr. 3 is best in my case. But at first I will try to search equivalent to Water Wetter in Estonia.
Placing an air conditioner directly in front of this unit would help in two ways. #1 the very cool air flowing over the unit would obviously decrease the overall temperature significantly. #2 the air coming from the ac unit is very dry air as the majority of the moisture is removed as the air flows over the evaporator coils. This move would reduce the moisture drawn into the compresser by a large margin. The ac unit does leak water so a trap would have to be constructed, also they do emit alot of heat from the other side. A window unit in a window with the compressor in front would be perfecto
Ummm, air cooling vs. liquid cooling is an argument that was settled over 100 years ago. I you feel you've got a cheat for thermodynamics, you should test it! And share your results!
I would have just raped the copper tubing around the stanles steel tubing like a 💈 pole and made more contact,,,or maybe a shell and tube model.. just saying.. I'm a professional HVAC licensed service man.. after I finish pumping up my tank or gun tank,, I relive the pressure off the system and then I hook a vacuum pump to the water filter and pull a vacuum to remove the water and moisture from the cotton collector..
Well heck, show us how the "Pro's" do it. Would love to see your work. The copper wrap works very well, and is within the reach of just about anyone. I do LOVE me some craftsmanship porn, bring it!
When I first started playing paintball back in '97 the dream was to be able to fill tanks at home so I could tech my gear and play at private fields that we'd set up at friends' property, without worrying about constantly running out of air. Now that I'm getting back into the sport after about a 10 yr hiatus, I love that these things exist and are relatively cheap, but keeping them running for a long time seems to be a hobby in itself, lol.
If the goal is to cool the outlet air as much as possible to condense as much water, would you consider replacing the short run from the high side to the distribution block with a larger coil of stainless tubing that could sit in a bucket of cold water? Similar to a condensation coil in a still? Would be a lot bulkier, but seems like it could cool the hpa much more effectively.
P.S. I plan on running my air through a 2 stage system. First through a condensate style air water separator, and then through a descant style. But after watching this, I'm wondering if running it through a stainless coil submerged in ice water before the condensate separator would increase the condensate's efficiency even more. Then again, this could all be massive overkill. I just hate the idea of getting a bunch of water in an expensive scuba tank.
Thanks for the comment Jay! Your solution would likely yield the best temperature differential possible that is for sure. On my design I tried to get rid of the buckets of water everywhere as that kinda drives me nuts. Also, getting stainless formed and adapting fittings to the metric fittings, while likely perfectly possible, is a mountain of a task in and of itself. If you go that way, I'd LOVE to see where you land. I have an update to this in the works, so be sure and subscribe so you don't miss it, that will take this copper wrap to a whole new level! In fact, I'm pulling so much heat out of that pipe now I actually need more radiator surface area to cool more effectively! The next iteration of this rig is going to be NUTS! Keep me posted on your progress if you go down that road!
@@jaybinning2890 I DEFIANTLY believe that if you can get a chiller before the coalescer it will help the entire system performance. Not a doubt in my mind. I'll actually be adding a coalescer and upgrading the filter/dryer as well.
@@TargetForge Very cool! (pun intended). Looking forward to seeing your update!
Thanks Jay. I too am interested in what you come up with. Until someone gifts my one of the big $4000 compressors I gotta keep my sub $250 unit going.
I always shut my compressor down at 120 degrees. Yong Heng still running perfect after 2 years!
I added aluminium heat sinks to all the hot pipes and I have a large volume computer fan blowing over the sinks and head from the fill side of the compressor . The sinks are old PC processor units cut in half and clamped on the pipes. I can hold my hand on them even after 15min of fill time . water never goes over 35 deg C and head temp around 45 deg C .
@@tatertots-n-soup Sorry Your wrong. I run a radiator on the water side and with multiple fans, its warm to hot but not hot enough I cant hold my hand on it, and Im a small engine technician, I know a thing or 2 about engine cooling sunshine . If you keep the temp down you can run it longer without excessive wear. You dont know much , so mind your own fking business little man
thanks for the tip as i wrapped all the tubes and what a difference it really makes
Glad it helped
Well I'll be dammed, I did this to my compressor without any foreknowledge anyone else was doing it. I used nickalloy brake line that I was able to bend to follow the stainless lines over 70%. And to adhere them I used that copper hanging 1/2" strap stuff of the softer variety adding more surface area for the air passing over. First I've seen your channel and apparently brilliant minds think alike.
Welcome!
Check out something like the Thermaltake PC Water series of CPU coolers. All sorts of stuff you can do; heat pipes, heat sinks, or for the ultimate nerd out, how about a geothermal ground loop? 😄
Well, well......isn't that something?!?! Awesome tip for those of us who are getting sizzled by the fire-breathing pump! Cooler is better!! Thanks for sharing!
Another great video in the YHHRS series of videos. I have a couple of YH's and may just bend some SS coil tubes in an attempt to drop the temperatures to allow condensing to take place. I feel the vacuum of interest drawing me in...... I......must resist..........
Let the dark side consume you my friend....
My favorite UA-camr and channel 💪
fantastic idea, really love your channel...very informative
Thank you!
Seen something similar where a guy got a sheet of thin alloy and cut out a heap of small circles and cut the circles half way through like to the middle hole so he could bend them slightly and slip over those tubes so after they were covered in cooling fins but can't do it on the bends and they ran much cooler and probably produced less crap ,i will probably do something similar with my topa hydraulic, glad i came across this channel it's very informative and thanks for the info on the oil and moisture separator in the other vid ,luckily i only have 1 4500 68ci tank and it doesn't take that long to fill but keeping it cooler can't be a bad thing
You had me w/ the water block. Spent too much time fooling w/ water-cooling personal computers to accommodate over-clocking heat, so I can't wait to pull a bunch of that ol' stuff out'a the closet to play w/ one of these. I also have an old frig in the shop that I use for cold crashing home brew. Maybe throw a copper coil in there to plug into...
So the next question is, how cold is too cold? Peltier? 😅
Great idea, awesomely done. You sir have another subscriber 👍
Thanks and welcome! Great to have you!
Great idea, and execution. I think I'll look at a few coils around the cast iron cylinder as well.
Thank you!
Well I just bought a air cooler for mine, it isn't even here yet. After watching this I think I will water cool it.
Yeah, water cooling is the way to go, you'll need to move a lot of heat out of the system. Thanks for commenting!
i think wraping the inside of the head fins would help alot. did you see my build. i followed you build
I did Sir, thank you for carrying the torch!
Try anti freeze at the correct solution , the mix works very well 👍
Check your facts Paul. Perfectly mixed you give up 30% in cooling effectiveness.
I got one of thous compressors on my list of goodies to buy.
Some folks give em a pretty bad rap, but IF you get a decent one, and you follow the directions, they CAN last a while. Be sure and watch that oil level, and always run the unit nice and level. Do not overfill the oil, there is a suspicion that it may be what leads to premature piston failure. Oil may get up in the HP cylinder and diesel. Just something to be mindful of. My clone (Cheapest of the cheap) went over three years. Welcome to the channel!
My thought for my system regarding the cast iron parts, as the design is basically based on an air cooled engine such as older motorcycles but the Yong Heng remains stationary . I wondering if adding some airflow over the fins would have any noticeable benefit, maybe a simple duct and fan setup would be useful?
I saw a do exactly that and it made a difference
So I just recently found your UA-cam channel what is that that the compressor is setting in is there something you design some type of chiller looking forward to the year information and thank you for your time
Welcome Manuel, that cage the Yong Heng sits in was designed and fabricated by me. The cooling system it supports was also mine and uses off the shelf parts that can be found in other videos and descriptions on my channel. There are a bunch of them. The idea of using a bucket of water and a low quality pump did not appeal to me, so I made this for myself. Turns out, it has brought a lot of people to the channel, which is good. Have a look around and if you like what you see, tell all your friends! Lol. Have a good day!
@@TargetForge Thank you very much I will look for the video I’m getting ready to to build a a closed system with a high speed DC fan so I will check yours out first
@@TargetForge so I looked for a video where you made your chill system but didn’t find it
its right here: ua-cam.com/video/pNTalha4d9c/v-deo.html look in the description for the links.
I was thinking about mounting a transmission cooler on a compressor cart and some water cooling additive to the water and have a fan blowing through the cooler and a small high speed pc fan blowing on the cylinder head. I also use ice water and cool the head to 9-12°C before starting to fill my L2 or Wildcat MKII.
My recommendation is to just get a cheap heater core from the car world, it's designed for water heat transfer efficiency, your transmission cooler is designed to cool oil and has very different design elements. Many in the Yong Heng community believe that ice cooling may go to far in the other direction, potentially cooling the head too much and changing clearances out of the range of operational norms. I'm not saying these units are super well designed, but they are designed to operate at a constant temperature and I'd wager that temp is not super cold. Blowing air at the head won't really do much as the design is just not meant for air cooling. You could add some aluminum of copper fins to hot parts, but why? You already have water cooling, why not just add some copper pipe and use that?
Look into the vevor chillers. I picked one up and modified it here an there but its awesome at keeping the little yong heng cool
@@TargetForge Thanks for the advice. You brought up things that my noob to hp compressors, self had not thought of. I like your idea on the heater core and I happen to have a 12v power supply already. Any core you recommend? My reasoning for using frozen bottles of water in my cooling water is so I don’t have that unbearable twenty minute cool down once the cylinder head get up to 35-40°C.
Great idea 👏👏👏
Thank you! Cheers!
I put some inline peltier chillers and a radiator with a fan on a relay and its a closed circuit loop and mine never gets above 80 degrees. I also added a bearing to the piston arm on the crank shaft to reduce friction. Worka great
Sounds COOL!
Wish i could post a picture of my hillbilly engineering haha
I wonder how much you would bring the temperature down if you put a strong fan in front of the cylinder head and all of the aluminum airlines????????
Air cooling vs water cooling is well known in engineering. Water cooling is MUCH more efficient. Those lines are not aluminum, they are stainless steel as pressures reach 4500 psi. Thank you for your comment!
Very much like a condensation coil on a whisky still.
Very true!
You'd make one hell of a refrigeration air conditioning guy
Olá boa tarde tudo bem, gostaria de saber sobre a caixa de arrefecimento, vocês utilizaram unidade ou sistema de Peltier, para refrigeração da água?
The blue tank is just a reservoir. An automotive heater core is the the actual heat exchanger. Check out the playlist for the Yong Heng on my channel. ua-cam.com/play/PLewLk5CXG9qEqH3wUKxX1ogHUuo66HRxl.html
@7:20 my man. Just use a small hand held pipe bender. Easy peasy.
I just got my Yong Hengs, bought 2 Amazon returns for a little more than the price of 1, so took them both. I need to look a little closer, but short of moving the air intake, why not just mist the entire pump end of the unit???
Seems like that would create quite a mess? I guess if you made an enclosure you could contain it, but it seems like quite a project.
Water and a.c. electricity don't mix well.
Even a 'mist' could potentially cause a short circuit.
Why not to use automotive coolant instead of distilled water with additives? Would coolant destroy something on/in compressor?
Thank you for your question. Ethylene Glycol is actually not a very good coolant. It's only advantage is that it does not freeze as early as plain water. Plus its a nightmare to get rid of in an ethical manner.
@@wruehl Thank You for Your answer. Sadly here, where I live, I cant get hold to that Water Wetter additive to go with distilled water and Water Wetter. I have 3 options: 1) tap water; 2) distilled water; 3) ethylene glycol based coolant. I think that option nr. 3 is best in my case. But at first I will try to search equivalent to Water Wetter in Estonia.
@@paavokaleva Honestly, you're better off with tap water and a drop of dish soap. WAY better off.
Shouldn't harm anything, but use coolant for aluminum or it would cause corrosion.
Also, antifreeze DOES NOT TRANSFER HEAT AS WELL AS WATER ALONE.
You can use pc water cooling liquid. It's basically a pure water with some corrosion inhibitors.
Placing an air conditioner directly in front of this unit would help in two ways.
#1 the very cool air flowing over the unit would obviously decrease the overall temperature significantly.
#2 the air coming from the ac unit is very dry air as the majority of the moisture is removed as the air flows over the evaporator coils.
This move would reduce the moisture drawn into the compresser by a large margin.
The ac unit does leak water so a trap would have to be constructed, also they do emit alot of heat from the other side. A window unit in a window with the compressor in front would be perfecto
Ummm, air cooling vs. liquid cooling is an argument that was settled over 100 years ago. I you feel you've got a cheat for thermodynamics, you should test it! And share your results!
Do u use anti frezze in the water
No need to. It's always inside and not at risk of freezing temps. Anti freeze actually adversely affects the cooling capacity of plain water.
I need to be more awake next time.😱
God...Is that you???
@@TargetForge yes
@@poosmotherdoesthequeeninth4152 Ummm, about that afternoon back in the six grade... Can I get a mulligan on that? Asking for a friend...
@@wruehl I'll see what I can do but I'm trying to clean up my sixth grade record.😳🤷
I would have just raped the copper tubing around the stanles steel tubing like a 💈 pole and made more contact,,,or maybe a shell and tube model.. just saying.. I'm a professional HVAC licensed service man.. after I finish pumping up my tank or gun tank,, I relive the pressure off the system and then I hook a vacuum pump to the water filter and pull a vacuum to remove the water and moisture from the cotton collector..
Well heck, show us how the "Pro's" do it. Would love to see your work. The copper wrap works very well, and is within the reach of just about anyone. I do LOVE me some craftsmanship porn, bring it!