Tongue depressor a great idea. Some friends paint the end of the throw ball green in one side and red or yellow on the other. It makes it easier to spot and know which way the points are thrown. To add another level of realism instead of muddy fill around the base place wooden ties The railroad does this to fill in lower areas around the switch stand. Fine presentation… I like painting the stands. Good point 👍
I have used these ground throws for at least 10 years and never had a pin break. I just drill out the hole on the throw bar for the pin to fit. The plastic I think is called Delrin which is a pain to glue. I use track spikes to secure them down
Nice video, I have used HO Caboose throws since they first came out with my Atlas turnouts. Yes they are made of derlin plastic that makes them a pain to glue, sanding the bottoms is a great idea for the glue to adhere to the wood. There is a video that also shows how to make Atlas turnouts work like Peco's using a paper clip. Just in case you dont have room for a Caboose Indu machine. Keep up the videos they are very good.
Very good video. I'm finalizing my plans for my layout and I'm going to use Caboose ground throws with contacts to power the frogs but never thought about painting them to look more realistic. Thanks
Very interesting installation technique; I may try your alternative pin concept. I truly learn something new from each video of yours I watch. THANK YOU. 👍👍 An alternate installation technique ..... I am in HO and use Atlas Custom Line #4 and #6 turnouts (TO) almost exclusively but also have 6 Micro Engineering #5 TOs on my layout. All TOs are controlled by Caboose Hobbies (CH) 202S (sprung). For the vast majority, my method is to drill out the hole in the Atlas TO for a slip fit with the CH pin. These work very well and I have never broken the pin on the CH ground throws. I have, however had to mount a few of the CHs on the "wrong side", the side away from the "T" head side of the TO bar, or have had to control a turnout from several inched away because the track spacing didn't allow room to install the CH. In such cases, I use a piece of brass wire through a small brass tube with a "Z" bend at the CH end and just an "L" bend up through the center hole in the TO bar. Also, I use a short piece of roadbed material butted against the track roadbed affixed with track nails and use track nails to hold the CH in place. The operation can be easily adjusted with a nail set against the side of the mounting nail head to finalize the CH to best operation location should the need arise. The whole operation from start to finish takes only about 4 - 5 minutes and I have CH operating Atlas TOs without having to wait for epoxy to dry for any of the installation. (FWIW 😎) One last comment, I have an 8 ft. module with CHs installed from back in the late 80s and I have never had any of the pins break off from use, but have had a couple break from being too aggressive with my installation process, coupled with severe frustration due to "life happenings". Maybe I shouldn't have been installing CHs under such conditions ..... 🤪🙃🤪
You have a good approach to installing Caboose Industries ground throws. It's adaptable to almost any type of turnouts. Thanks for sharing. You should get yourself some smaller sized drill bits. They come in handy in instances like this. Micro-Mark offers a set of about a dozen smaller size bits. One suggestion: using a small bit to drill a pilot hole down into the plywood substrate will make it easier to drive the brads home firmly. Between the glue and the Brad, the ground throw will be very well fixed.
Thanks for the comments. Those MicroMark drill bits have been on my wish list for a long time along with a better pin vise. Curiously, this video recently jumped significantly in views for no reason I can see. Maybe someone linked to it? Maybe the algorithm monster fell in love with it.
You have a pin vice drill, just open the hole up on the switch's throw bar. The only reason to do this is if you needed to mount the Caboose Ground Throw (CGT) farther away from the switch because the rail equipment hits the CGT, which is quite common.
This is awesome, as I'm writing this I'm installing the 202S caboose industries throws in my Atlas #566 and 565 #8 turnouts, I just had to drill all the holes using a #54 drill bit and they work fine I almost did what you did and was going to run rod through the peg after cutting the peg off but decide to take a chance and twist drill the slide on the switch instead, it worked and saved a ton of time and glue doesn't seem to reliable on delrin plastic. Enjoyed the video.
Thanks for the comments. Some people have asked why I did not drill out the hole and I think the true answer was that I did not have a drill bit the right size. It probably would have been easier to buy a drill bit than replace all the pegs, but that was the path I chose. I was a bit afraid that there was not enough extra area to enlarge the hole, but apparently others have had no problems. Thanks for watching.
Debating the CI throws with the ability to power the frogs. New layout in HO will be for my old DC trains but would like option to also run DCC since I have DCC setup as well sans any engines. Does anyone power their frogs for Atlas Custom-line turnouts on DC layout? Appreciate this video and will be using it as a guide.
Thanks for the video!! Learned a lot. As I'm just planning my layout, I'll include some of these manual switch throws. Quick question: What's the model number of the Irwin cutting pliers you used? Are they 6-inch or 8-inch?
Thanks for the comments. Most of the stress is sideways (sheer stress in engineering terms) so the brads help protect against that. I think I first tried it without the brads and the glue didn't always hold. I have never had a problem with the brads.
![Lp. Последняя Реальность #107 РОДНОЙ ДОМ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IK3QKzKUlHM/mqdefault.jpg)
Tongue depressor a great idea. Some friends paint the end of the throw ball green in one side and red or yellow on the other. It makes it easier to spot and know which way the points are thrown.
To add another level of realism instead of muddy fill around the base place wooden ties The railroad does this to fill in lower areas around the switch stand.
Fine presentation… I like painting the stands. Good point 👍
A very handy technique for Atlas turnouts. Thanks for producing this how-to video and sharing it.
I have used these ground throws for at least 10 years and never had a pin break. I just drill out the hole on the throw bar for the pin to fit. The plastic I think is called Delrin which is a pain to glue. I use track spikes to secure them down
Nice video, I have used HO Caboose throws since they first came out with my Atlas turnouts. Yes they are made of derlin plastic that makes them a pain to glue, sanding the bottoms is a great idea for the glue to adhere to the wood.
There is a video that also shows how to make Atlas turnouts work like Peco's using a paper clip. Just in case you dont have room for a Caboose Indu machine.
Keep up the videos they are very good.
Thanks for sharing, I've never used ground throws before, but was planning to do so on my next layout.
Very good video. I'm finalizing my plans for my layout and I'm going to use Caboose ground throws with contacts to power the frogs but never thought about painting them to look more realistic. Thanks
This is really helpful as I will be using bot Atlas and Kato track on my rebuild. Thanks for sharing. Dave
Yeah, that’s Delrin, which is really tough, but has that a slick surface feel and is a real pain to glue.
Very interesting installation technique; I may try your alternative pin concept. I truly learn something new from each video of yours I watch. THANK YOU. 👍👍
An alternate installation technique ..... I am in HO and use Atlas Custom Line #4 and #6 turnouts (TO) almost exclusively but also have 6 Micro Engineering #5 TOs on my layout. All TOs are controlled by Caboose Hobbies (CH) 202S (sprung). For the vast majority, my method is to drill out the hole in the Atlas TO for a slip fit with the CH pin. These work very well and I have never broken the pin on the CH ground throws. I have, however had to mount a few of the CHs on the "wrong side", the side away from the "T" head side of the TO bar, or have had to control a turnout from several inched away because the track spacing didn't allow room to install the CH. In such cases, I use a piece of brass wire through a small brass tube with a "Z" bend at the CH end and just an "L" bend up through the center hole in the TO bar.
Also, I use a short piece of roadbed material butted against the track roadbed affixed with track nails and use track nails to hold the CH in place. The operation can be easily adjusted with a nail set against the side of the mounting nail head to finalize the CH to best operation location should the need arise. The whole operation from start to finish takes only about 4 - 5 minutes and I have CH operating Atlas TOs without having to wait for epoxy to dry for any of the installation. (FWIW 😎)
One last comment, I have an 8 ft. module with CHs installed from back in the late 80s and I have never had any of the pins break off from use, but have had a couple break from being too aggressive with my installation process, coupled with severe frustration due to "life happenings". Maybe I shouldn't have been installing CHs under such conditions .....
🤪🙃🤪
great idea for my turn points! now that authentic!
You have a good approach to installing Caboose Industries ground throws. It's adaptable to almost any type of turnouts. Thanks for sharing.
You should get yourself some smaller sized drill bits. They come in handy in instances like this. Micro-Mark offers a set of about a dozen smaller size bits.
One suggestion: using a small bit to drill a pilot hole down into the plywood substrate will make it easier to drive the brads home firmly. Between the glue and the Brad, the ground throw will be very well fixed.
Thanks for the comments. Those MicroMark drill bits have been on my wish list for a long time along with a better pin vise. Curiously, this video recently jumped significantly in views for no reason I can see. Maybe someone linked to it? Maybe the algorithm monster fell in love with it.
You have a pin vice drill, just open the hole up on the switch's throw bar. The only reason to do this is if you needed to mount the Caboose Ground Throw (CGT) farther away from the switch because the rail equipment hits the CGT, which is quite common.
This is awesome, as I'm writing this I'm installing the 202S caboose industries throws in my Atlas #566 and 565 #8 turnouts, I just had to drill all the holes using a #54 drill bit and they work fine I almost did what you did and was going to run rod through the peg after cutting the peg off but decide to take a chance and twist drill the slide on the switch instead, it worked and saved a ton of time and glue doesn't seem to reliable on delrin plastic. Enjoyed the video.
Thanks for the comments. Some people have asked why I did not drill out the hole and I think the true answer was that I did not have a drill bit the right size. It probably would have been easier to buy a drill bit than replace all the pegs, but that was the path I chose. I was a bit afraid that there was not enough extra area to enlarge the hole, but apparently others have had no problems. Thanks for watching.
Nice, clean installation. Well done.
When I installed caboose ground throws on my N scale layout, I used a 0.028 feeler gauge to find the center position of the points.
I use Kato HO, no problems.
Great video. Very clear and concise instructions!
Very helpful. Thanks...
Debating the CI throws with the ability to power the frogs. New layout in HO will be for my old DC trains but would like option to also run DCC since I have DCC setup as well sans any engines. Does anyone power their frogs for Atlas Custom-line turnouts on DC layout? Appreciate this video and will be using it as a guide.
Thanks for the video!! Learned a lot. As I'm just planning my layout, I'll include some of these manual switch throws.
Quick question: What's the model number of the Irwin cutting pliers you used? Are they 6-inch or 8-inch?
Thanks for the comments. 8-inch. 1902413 is the only number on it.
@@asdasx392 Thanks!!
Do you remember with Caboose Industries ground throw you used? Do you use a spring version?
Thanks for the comments. They were pretty simple. There was no spring that I could see.
How do the brads lock anything in if you cut the head off?
Thanks for the comments. Most of the stress is sideways (sheer stress in engineering terms) so the brads help protect against that. I think I first tried it without the brads and the glue didn't always hold. I have never had a problem with the brads.
Drill out the hole on the switch?
Thanks for the comments. You could try that, but there is not much room to expand the hole. Anyway, I did not have the right size drill bit.
none of this is applicable or usable with 3 rail Maerklin HO......