thank, you for youre helpful video.👍 im. starting on my second ho-scale model railroad layout. i, have never used cork roadbed before. but now i will be using it for sure.
I like the Dremel deal for the sides. I did it that way years ago but I never sanded it (should have), anyway great tip and I like your progress so far. God Bless Ya Dave
I am ready to start this stage, question do I need any other material to help with noise transfer to the elevated plywood road bed, a extra layer between plywood and the cork ?, thanks
you and I do it pretty much the same. and like you I use a lot of pins. Some people say soak the cork for 24 hours prior to using it, have you ever done that? is it necessary? and no I have never soaked the cork first.
I never have. Some say to do that if your cork dries out and becomes brittle and hard to bend along a curve. I've never experienced that issue myself. The cork should get plenty of water during the ballasting process anyway. :)
I have not. My concern with that would be that it might allow too much movement in the trackwork and cause issues when laying ballast. You won't be able to spike track either if that is your preferred way of attaching it.
I pretty sure folks in the train set hobby have money to burn. Like civilian saltwater sailors. When you started with the Dremel and canned air, I realized corrugated cardboard & a blade will do pretty much the same as the cork and it's free. It'll be covered with aquarium gravel anyway, won't it? Isn't that next? "Ballasting"? That should work for my toy trains, and again, it's free. Thanks! Sometime I'll have to tell you about the Afghan interpreter who tried to frag my fireteam. It's hilarious.
Making my first layout right now and that was a great example and tip 👍
thank, you for youre helpful video.👍 im. starting on my second ho-scale model railroad layout. i, have never used cork roadbed before. but now i will be using it for sure.
Awesome. Glad to hear it!
Great video man! Most people dont sand there cork. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
I like the Dremel deal for the sides. I did it that way years ago but I never sanded it (should have), anyway great tip and I like your progress so far. God Bless Ya Dave
Thanks for your thoughts!
good info
I am ready to start this stage, question do I need any other material to help with noise transfer to the elevated plywood road bed, a extra layer between plywood and the cork ?, thanks
I have to buddy it is awesome makes my layout not so rough with my big power or little power I have my yard
Right on!
I usually use the turnout pads unless its a curved turnout. I love using cork roadbed
+1 for the Alien shirt!
Heck yeah man!
Thanks for the helpful vid! Do you have examples of laying turnouts with switch machines next to the track? It gets a little tight so just curious
Love your tutorial videos! ... how about one on wiring for dcc?
Thanks! I'll be putting one of those together soon for sure!
Saw you on Big Bill!
you and I do it pretty much the same. and like you I use a lot of pins. Some people say soak the cork for 24 hours prior to using it, have you ever done that? is it necessary?
and no I have never soaked the cork first.
I never have. Some say to do that if your cork dries out and becomes brittle and hard to bend along a curve. I've never experienced that issue myself. The cork should get plenty of water during the ballasting process anyway. :)
Same good info, for the New modeler. Bob
That is the intended audience. Thanks for watching anyway though! ;)
Looks good, have you ever used the foam rubber woodland scenics roadbed?
I have not. My concern with that would be that it might allow too much movement in the trackwork and cause issues when laying ballast. You won't be able to spike track either if that is your preferred way of attaching it.
I used that before and the ballast would break up after it dried on the foam stuff. Its cork from now on.
is cork the only way to go? kind of "strange" that there is no other material with similar qualities
Some use foam strips, others use wood strips. Cork has been around for a long time now and is a pretty good material for this kind of job.
I use a glue gun with low temp glue sticks, just a few inches at a time. I sand the edges too
Interesting technique!
Instead of push pins have you heard of using an electric or handheld staple gun? You would still glue but leave the staples in.
Can I nail it to my platform instead of glueing , when I was younger my father nailed it to the platform .
Nailing works. I prefer glue just because I think it is a better, cleaner bond.
@@MFRailroad thanks for your help , I appreciate your time and knowledge 👍
For my turnouts i use the turnout pads myself
I pretty sure folks in the train set hobby have money to burn. Like civilian saltwater sailors. When you started with the Dremel and canned air, I realized corrugated cardboard & a blade will do pretty much the same as the cork and it's free. It'll be covered with aquarium gravel anyway, won't it? Isn't that next? "Ballasting"? That should work for my toy trains, and again, it's free. Thanks! Sometime I'll have to tell you about the Afghan interpreter who tried to frag my fireteam. It's hilarious.
Awesome. Then I'll tell you of the time my wife had an RPG crash through the roof of her bunk.