I’m a former insurance adjuster and his first piece of advice is great, turn off the main valve. However, you need to drain the system to actually stop water. Open a cold water facet on a sink on the lowest level to drain all water still in the pipes.
Correct, Other wise as instructed, ya wont cover the claim. Unless you live in the right population. As a former fire restoration employee just saying.
I wish more insurance companies gave rebates or incentives for auto shut off valves. They’re expensive and I did it for piece of mind, but I have to imagine it’s a lot more cost effective for an insurance company to pay for one of these rather than dealing with a full claim.
Love the way this channel consistently delivers useful, straightforward information in a traditional way. Nothing beats lessons from experienced pros like this
I recall having a pipe burst from freezing some years back over Christmas; I walked in on the 26th or 27th to find water pouring down from the second floor to the point of there actually being inches of wood in the first floor, when I went to the basement to shut the water off it was like it was raining in the basement, with water flowing from everywhere like a rainfall shower head. After shutting it off, or trying too I found the main valve didn’t close, but at the point who cares about a little water from that; cut the pipe, slide a push fitting on, then close it off. Thankfully we had decent insurance as it cost a LOT to fix; the insurance even paid the water bill, which was over $1k on its own, just for a few days of water running 24/7.
I'm no plumber, and I will probably never learn to solder right, but with the push to connect and pex things, it seems easier than ever for every day people to at least take care of small emergencies. Thanks for the tips about the push to connect, might be really helpful in fixing some stuff around here.
Sodering is easy, just watch a video, the trick is letting all the water clear from the pipe. Your seal might look sloppy but I bet you could get it done.
@@lebronjameslol3521 ... if you can't solder due to a drip then stuff a piece of bread in the pipe. It will soak up enough to allow you 30 seconds of working time and finish that joint.
@@rupe53 The bread trick is often used, but IMHO should be avoided, except when there's exactly one outlet downstream from the joint and that outlet has no aerator or other screen. Most joints will be upstream of T's, Y's, etc. and the pipes will lead to things like bathroom or kitchen faucets, showerheads, or toilet tanks. All of these can get clogged with the bits of bread that get washed downstream after the joint has been soldered. You can't just, for example, remove the aerator from one outlet and then open that first, because it's still possible for turbulence to let bits and pieces wind up heading a different direction and creating a clog later. It is much better to just start by making sure the water is completely shut off upstream, and then either waiting for any drips to finally resolve, or speed things up with a heat gun (or even your torch) to evaporate any remaining moisture in the pipe.
HI TOH , we've had a hot water heater break in the year 1997 & water got all over the hallway & into the bathroom , it was a mess , thanks for the tips Richard ! 👍😊🛠
I just used a few of those push-to-connect fittings in a vanity install, involving 1/2" copper pipe. I was able to kill the water going to the sink while I took my time installing the new vanity. I used Sharkbites end stops and they worked great. My only recommendation is to buy their tong removal tool for about $10 US. Those suckers are tough to remove using their cheaper plastic removal tool.
As a plumber I’ll use those for temporary over night to stop water leaking or to give customer temporary water. Using them as permanent fittings will have any plumber losing sleep at night.
You don’t need the tong removal tool. You can use an adjustable wrench adjusted to have the opening be just a smidge bigger than the pipe diameter, so it can be used to push against the plastic ring on the end of the push on connectors.
Some extra notes on the pressure relief valve on a water heater. The advice to not disable this extremely important safety device is critical to heed, but there are some other things handy to know: If water starts coming out of the drain pipe and nothing else has changed, it's possible the valve itself is no longer operating properly and should be replaced. Otherwise, it may be that the installation does not include a necessary expansion tank. This should be standard in any new work, but older homes might not have one, and even new homes with wells might not have one, because the plumber will assume the well's pressure tank can also serve as an expansion reservoir. This situation can work for awhile, but if something changes -- like a hot water recirculation pump is added, which introduces a check-valve that prevents expansion back into the supply line, or if an update requires a check-valve to be added to protect the municipal service, or maybe even if the municipal service water pressure is increased for some reason -- one might start seeing the relief valve letting water out of the water heater, if no expansion tank is installed. If there's an expansion tank, but water is still coming out and the valve has been tested as good, then it's possible the expansion tank itself has failed and needs replacing.
I've been a fan of TOH my whole life! So happy to see you on UA-cam with updated videos ♡ I'm just S.O.B., my 1680 house burnt down (NOW THATS AN OLD HOUSE; I kid you not, in the family for generations) I could use some old tree advice/help and you could film literally any subject you want 😳 my contracting co. basically built everything wrong. Foundation to ducts to main beam (slowly being fixed but so much more) and no one wants "another contractors mess"...I'm in a pickle with a thick Boston accent ♡ much love.
This video assumes all of the shut off valves actually shut off water flow. Sometimes there is also a problem with the shut offs letting water through or leaking also.
If you have one of those terrible, should-be-illegal, gate valves as your main shutoff...go check it now. Those things get seized open so much it's insane. The last thing you wanna do is going ham on that valve with some pliers when there's city water gushing in at 3 gallons a minute.
This is way too timely. Within hours of this video being posted, I realized we had a water leak, making it rain in the basement. I channeled my inner-Richard and thought of what the problem could be. Turns out the dishwasher supply fitting had been leaking for hours/days? I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow!
shutting off the water is all fine and dandy till you realize that's the one valve that hasn't been used in 40 years and it's frozen solid... or leaks worse than whatever you are trying to stop elsewhere in the house. For people on well water you have one more option.... shut the pump off at the electric panel. Yeah, there's still more water in the system but it's maybe 10-20 gallons and once the power is killed that will be it.
You ain't kidding, I had a hose bib fail so I went to the main shutoff under the house, started turning it and it started spraying too lol. Went to the street shutoff, frozen solid. I dug out the big boy channel-locks and man handled it off. It didn't leak but still let a little water by. What a mess lol
Not every house has a main shut off valve 😂. I’ve been to a string of condos with one main shut off valve in the first one, had to use a pipe freezer to cut in a shut off in this home…sometimes things aren’t common sense
Every homeowner should have: copper/pvc cutters depending on the type of pipe you have 3/4 sharkbite cap 1/2 sharkbite cap 3/4 kibosh repair clamp 1/2 kibosh repair clamp 3/4 sharkbite repair hose 1/2 sharkbite repair hose Stem repair kit for multi turn angle stops And in warmer climates if you have a pvc service line from the meter near the street to the house: Shovel 3/4 pvc telescopic repair coupling pvc glue/primer pvc cutters This should get a normal household with a fairly handy person through the night in most of cases.
So, “every homeowner with a fairly handy person in the home”*. Getting through the night doesn’t require any tools though. Just close the main shutoff valve and continue sleep 😉
@@Engineer9736 water is pretty essential. What if it's winter and you have oil heat? You need water for that system to work. You should be able to get about 2 flushes of water out of your toilet tank when your water is off.
@@timc1341 Unless you coincidentally have diarrhea, people usually only s** once a day which is fine without full city water pressure for one flush. Just urinate over the fence in the neighbors their yard. Shower… one bath during Christmas is fine.
Add push on valves to that list, for both 1/2” and 3/4”, so that you can cap a pressurized section by having the push on valve in the open position first then pushing it on and then closing the push on valve. Much easier to cap a pressurized line than using a push on cap.
Richard I’m a master plumber down in Houston Texas I own a service company I started carrying those Nyle heat pumps, where can I get the specs on how you made that single entry valve on the external heat pump video you added to that electric water heater for that gentleman I’ve looked everywhere and I can’t find anywhere how you made that single entry valve.
@@samsonli9490 I am aware of the process, (WI master plumber) I think it would be hilarious to watch as no matter how you try to get that open valve on the pipe at full pressure (60 psi average) you will get wet.
There is at least one UA-cam video on another channel that actually shows it being done, starting with the push on valve in the open position. Nobody attempting to do that should expect to be dry after doing so …
Sorry this question has nothing to do about plumbing. My question is concerning a home I'm looking at buying. It has 2 wall mount mini-split units installed but they are both on the same side of the house. The house is ranch style about 1100 sq. ft. The bedrooms and bathroom are on the other end of the house from where the units are installed. I'm concerned they won't cool those rooms since the air has to go down the hall and into those rooms. I have no idea the size, brand, or model of the units. I live in AZ and when the temps go over a 100F is why I'm worried. Just wondering what your thoughts are? Should I be concerned?
There is no specific value, each municipality will have their own supply pressures and reasoning for doing so. For example, in area with some hills, it takes more pressure to get that water up the hill. And the volume of water that needs to be delivered is also a factor. Building codes say to not supply more than 80 PSI to residential fixtures. So houses in high pressure areas will have a pressure reducing valve at the point where water enters the house. I measured 105 PSI coming into my house a few years back; I have the pressure reducer set to just below 60 PSI. 40 PSI is the low end, below 40 PSI you will get the complaints about low pressure.
I keep two SharkBite caps push on you cut off the bad it the bad end in the middle put those two on each side so you can make the permanent repair always keep true half inch SharkBite caps 2
PLUMBING TIPS: 1.CUT STRAIGHT. 2. NO BURS. 3. USE THE PURPLE STUFF BEFORE THE GLUE. IT'S A MUST. 4. USE RIGHT GLUE FOR RIGHT PIPE. 5. WHEN GLUEING PUSH THE PIPES TOWARD EACH OTHER AS HARD AS YOU CAN FOR A GOOD SETTING. 6. WATER PRESSURE CAN BE APPLIED IN AS LITTLE AS 10 MIN AFTER GLUE IS APPLIED BUT WAIT 30 MIN TO BE SAFE. 7. WHEN IN DOUBT, CALL A FRIEND IN THE HVAC/PLUMBING BUSINESS FOR HELP.
I’m a former insurance adjuster and his first piece of advice is great, turn off the main valve. However, you need to drain the system to actually stop water. Open a cold water facet on a sink on the lowest level to drain all water still in the pipes.
Correct, Other wise as instructed, ya wont cover the claim. Unless you live in the right population. As a former fire restoration employee just saying.
I wish more insurance companies gave rebates or incentives for auto shut off valves. They’re expensive and I did it for piece of mind, but I have to imagine it’s a lot more cost effective for an insurance company to pay for one of these rather than dealing with a full claim.
Love the way this channel consistently delivers useful, straightforward information in a traditional way. Nothing beats lessons from experienced pros like this
I recall having a pipe burst from freezing some years back over Christmas; I walked in on the 26th or 27th to find water pouring down from the second floor to the point of there actually being inches of wood in the first floor, when I went to the basement to shut the water off it was like it was raining in the basement, with water flowing from everywhere like a rainfall shower head. After shutting it off, or trying too I found the main valve didn’t close, but at the point who cares about a little water from that; cut the pipe, slide a push fitting on, then close it off. Thankfully we had decent insurance as it cost a LOT to fix; the insurance even paid the water bill, which was over $1k on its own, just for a few days of water running 24/7.
Control kit.....I'm taking that one, thanks!
I'm no plumber, and I will probably never learn to solder right, but with the push to connect and pex things, it seems easier than ever for every day people to at least take care of small emergencies. Thanks for the tips about the push to connect, might be really helpful in fixing some stuff around here.
Sodering is easy, just watch a video, the trick is letting all the water clear from the pipe. Your seal might look sloppy but I bet you could get it done.
@@lebronjameslol3521 ... if you can't solder due to a drip then stuff a piece of bread in the pipe. It will soak up enough to allow you 30 seconds of working time and finish that joint.
Push fit doesn't last, get it replaced with something else once the emergency is over.
@@JohnSSSSS ... the video was about what to do in a pinch, that's all. You can call in a pro in the morning.
@@rupe53 The bread trick is often used, but IMHO should be avoided, except when there's exactly one outlet downstream from the joint and that outlet has no aerator or other screen.
Most joints will be upstream of T's, Y's, etc. and the pipes will lead to things like bathroom or kitchen faucets, showerheads, or toilet tanks. All of these can get clogged with the bits of bread that get washed downstream after the joint has been soldered. You can't just, for example, remove the aerator from one outlet and then open that first, because it's still possible for turbulence to let bits and pieces wind up heading a different direction and creating a clog later.
It is much better to just start by making sure the water is completely shut off upstream, and then either waiting for any drips to finally resolve, or speed things up with a heat gun (or even your torch) to evaporate any remaining moisture in the pipe.
Richard is terrific!
Thanks 👍
HI TOH , we've had a hot water heater break in the year 1997 & water got all over the hallway & into the bathroom , it was a mess , thanks for the tips Richard ! 👍😊🛠
I just used a few of those push-to-connect fittings in a vanity install, involving 1/2" copper pipe. I was able to kill the water going to the sink while I took my time installing the new vanity. I used Sharkbites end stops and they worked great. My only recommendation is to buy their tong removal tool for about $10 US. Those suckers are tough to remove using their cheaper plastic removal tool.
As a plumber I’ll use those for temporary over night to stop water leaking or to give customer temporary water. Using them as permanent fittings will have any plumber losing sleep at night.
You don’t need the tong removal tool. You can use an adjustable wrench adjusted to have the opening be just a smidge bigger than the pipe diameter, so it can be used to push against the plastic ring on the end of the push on connectors.
I had a plumbing emergency last week when I had major diarrhea.
Some extra notes on the pressure relief valve on a water heater. The advice to not disable this extremely important safety device is critical to heed, but there are some other things handy to know:
If water starts coming out of the drain pipe and nothing else has changed, it's possible the valve itself is no longer operating properly and should be replaced.
Otherwise, it may be that the installation does not include a necessary expansion tank. This should be standard in any new work, but older homes might not have one, and even new homes with wells might not have one, because the plumber will assume the well's pressure tank can also serve as an expansion reservoir. This situation can work for awhile, but if something changes -- like a hot water recirculation pump is added, which introduces a check-valve that prevents expansion back into the supply line, or if an update requires a check-valve to be added to protect the municipal service, or maybe even if the municipal service water pressure is increased for some reason -- one might start seeing the relief valve letting water out of the water heater, if no expansion tank is installed.
If there's an expansion tank, but water is still coming out and the valve has been tested as good, then it's possible the expansion tank itself has failed and needs replacing.
I've been a fan of TOH my whole life! So happy to see you on UA-cam with updated videos ♡ I'm just S.O.B., my 1680 house burnt down (NOW THATS AN OLD HOUSE; I kid you not, in the family for generations) I could use some old tree advice/help and you could film literally any subject you want 😳 my contracting co. basically built everything wrong. Foundation to ducts to main beam (slowly being fixed but so much more) and no one wants "another contractors mess"...I'm in a pickle with a thick Boston accent ♡ much love.
Very good info guys. I keep several of these options in my toolbox just in case things like this happen. Great segment.
That is great Advice thanks.
This video assumes all of the shut off valves actually shut off water flow. Sometimes there is also a problem with the shut offs letting water through or leaking also.
Good video thanks guys! 😊
If you have one of those terrible, should-be-illegal, gate valves as your main shutoff...go check it now. Those things get seized open so much it's insane. The last thing you wanna do is going ham on that valve with some pliers when there's city water gushing in at 3 gallons a minute.
This is way too timely. Within hours of this video being posted, I realized we had a water leak, making it rain in the basement. I channeled my inner-Richard and thought of what the problem could be. Turns out the dishwasher supply fitting had been leaking for hours/days? I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow!
Water heater plastic drain plug physically cracked down the center, replaced it with a quarter turn ball out door valve.
shutting off the water is all fine and dandy till you realize that's the one valve that hasn't been used in 40 years and it's frozen solid... or leaks worse than whatever you are trying to stop elsewhere in the house. For people on well water you have one more option.... shut the pump off at the electric panel. Yeah, there's still more water in the system but it's maybe 10-20 gallons and once the power is killed that will be it.
You ain't kidding, I had a hose bib fail so I went to the main shutoff under the house, started turning it and it started spraying too lol. Went to the street shutoff, frozen solid. I dug out the big boy channel-locks and man handled it off. It didn't leak but still let a little water by. What a mess lol
My city changed out the meter every ten year so everyone's city shutoff gets some use. i just had a shutoff on my side of the meter
Come on guys make more videos foot the old time sake even tho we all get older still good to see you back in auction
I lived in the middle of nowhere in northern California in the winter and spring and i became well acquainted with sharkbites lol
Not every house has a main shut off valve 😂. I’ve been to a string of condos with one main shut off valve in the first one, had to use a pipe freezer to cut in a shut off in this home…sometimes things aren’t common sense
Every homeowner should have:
copper/pvc cutters depending on the type of pipe you have
3/4 sharkbite cap
1/2 sharkbite cap
3/4 kibosh repair clamp
1/2 kibosh repair clamp
3/4 sharkbite repair hose
1/2 sharkbite repair hose
Stem repair kit for multi turn angle stops
And in warmer climates if you have a pvc service line from the meter near the street to the house:
Shovel
3/4 pvc telescopic repair coupling
pvc glue/primer
pvc cutters
This should get a normal household with a fairly handy person through the night in most of cases.
So, “every homeowner with a fairly handy person in the home”*. Getting through the night doesn’t require any tools though. Just close the main shutoff valve and continue sleep 😉
@@Engineer9736 And skip your morning s**t/shower? No thanks
@@Engineer9736 water is pretty essential. What if it's winter and you have oil heat? You need water for that system to work. You should be able to get about 2 flushes of water out of your toilet tank when your water is off.
@@timc1341 Unless you coincidentally have diarrhea, people usually only s** once a day which is fine without full city water pressure for one flush. Just urinate over the fence in the neighbors their yard. Shower… one bath during Christmas is fine.
Add push on valves to that list, for both 1/2” and 3/4”, so that you can cap a pressurized section by having the push on valve in the open position first then pushing it on and then closing the push on valve. Much easier to cap a pressurized line than using a push on cap.
Yes a Union, A part so can scale.
Better hope your main shutoff holds LOL
Richard I’m a master plumber down in Houston Texas I own a service company I started carrying those Nyle heat pumps, where can I get the specs on how you made that single entry valve on the external heat pump video you added to that electric water heater for that gentleman I’ve looked everywhere and I can’t find anywhere how you made that single entry valve.
I would love (and pay) to see Richard install a push to connect valve on at full city pressure ;-)
push it through when the valve is open then shut it off afterwards.
@@samsonli9490 I am aware of the process, (WI master plumber) I think it would be hilarious to watch as no matter how you try to get that open valve on the pipe at full pressure (60 psi average) you will get wet.
I’m on my way!
There is at least one UA-cam video on another channel that actually shows it being done, starting with the push on valve in the open position.
Nobody attempting to do that should expect to be dry after doing so …
Shut off the full city water pressure
4000 bar
Great Info as always! Thanks!
Love it Super good recommendations!
Sorry this question has nothing to do about plumbing. My question is concerning a home I'm looking at buying. It has 2 wall mount mini-split units installed but they are both on the same side of the house. The house is ranch style about 1100 sq. ft. The bedrooms and bathroom are on the other end of the house from where the units are installed. I'm concerned they won't cool those rooms since the air has to go down the hall and into those rooms. I have no idea the size, brand, or model of the units. I live in AZ and when the temps go over a 100F is why I'm worried. Just wondering what your thoughts are? Should I be concerned?
What no bubble-gum 😂 Thanks for the tips!
Great tips as always 👌
Is it possible to do a segment on heating with a outdoor wood boiler ?
Great stuff guys
Main line shut offs I have touched need that t key. Once the pressure is off....does the outside Bib need to be turned on?
Whats the over/under on "Full city water pressure"?
There is no specific value, each municipality will have their own supply pressures and reasoning for doing so. For example, in area with some hills, it takes more pressure to get that water up the hill. And the volume of water that needs to be delivered is also a factor.
Building codes say to not supply more than 80 PSI to residential fixtures. So houses in high pressure areas will have a pressure reducing valve at the point where water enters the house. I measured 105 PSI coming into my house a few years back; I have the pressure reducer set to just below 60 PSI. 40 PSI is the low end, below 40 PSI you will get the complaints about low pressure.
I keep two SharkBite caps push on you cut off the bad it the bad end in the middle put those two on each side so you can make the permanent repair always keep true half inch SharkBite caps 2
Shut off water, a simple skill ❤️
2 valves on a hot water tank is ideal.
Don’t walk into a flooded building without shutting off the electrical supply to the whole building.
The best way for me to KNOW my water is shut off is to go to the valve out at the sidewalk.... But the city PUD tells me that this is a violation
and the electric circuit
Flex tape. Just until you can fix it.
Nice 👍
Good idea to turn off and on all shutoff valves periodically so they don't get stuck and can be used when needed.
My hot water tank leaked and I had to let the plumber replaced it at a price of $3000…wish I watched this video earlier :(
Good video although my house is 100% PEX
How do you make a chimney out of PEX? I guess it would become flexible and topple over after a bit
The push on fittings work just fine on PEX.
Who is telling you too plug the end ?
PLUMBING TIPS: 1.CUT STRAIGHT. 2. NO BURS. 3. USE THE PURPLE STUFF BEFORE THE GLUE. IT'S A MUST. 4. USE RIGHT GLUE FOR RIGHT PIPE. 5. WHEN GLUEING PUSH THE PIPES TOWARD EACH OTHER AS HARD AS YOU CAN FOR A GOOD SETTING. 6. WATER PRESSURE CAN BE APPLIED IN AS LITTLE AS 10 MIN AFTER GLUE IS APPLIED BUT WAIT 30 MIN TO BE SAFE. 7. WHEN IN DOUBT, CALL A FRIEND IN THE HVAC/PLUMBING BUSINESS FOR HELP.
👍👍😊😊
At least show people how to turn off the water at the meter.
👍
slimmer ☺☺😃😃😛😛
16 y/o doodoo
16 year olds doo doo.
Sharkbite