20hz from a $20 Subwoofer? Budget Build?
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- Опубліковано 28 вер 2017
- Can you really get 20hz from a $20 subwoofer? Parts Express sent me a GRS 10SW-4 that states it can get 20hz. Can it really? Or are these inflated specs? Today we will test that Theory and see if this how low we can actually get and whether or not this is a good budget build. Actual Curve: techtalk.parts-express.com/for...
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Music: Lensko - Let's Go [NCS Release] - Навчання та стиль
I re-tested the subwoofer and have a better representation of it's frequency response in my room: techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/1347018-20hz-from-a-20-sub
123Toid if your selling the box I would buy
123Toid I try using this GRS sub today I was using a rockford prime 5.25 coaxial speaker but after I use the GRS subs for the midrange my sound is 500 percent better the reason I do this is because I was having a hard time getting my prime 5.25 inch speakers to play 100 hertz now the GRS subwoofer does everything way better I am shocked except I don't allow my GRS play any bass sound its not good at making bass sound with the speaker box I am using
Shove 2 in the box
Ran 8 of the 12” version of this brand and was blown away. 141db @ 20hz 148db @ 48hz with 1200 watts RMS
Can you guys please link me a amplifier that is suitable for this I'm gonna only buy 1 of these subwoofer please link me a amplifier board that is suitable for this BTW I'm doing this at home not at my dads car so this is a home theater setup.
What about distortion?
But why? :D
Make a video
bruh u build a big box for that omg
My opnion: I think that box is bigger than it needs to be. Yeah, because of the high QTS and stiff suspension, you can tune it low. But if you give up some of that extension, you can use a smaller box that is more practical for most people. Were I doing this project, I would have designed a tall, narrow enclosure that could stand up in the corner of a room while only taking up a modest footprint on the floor. You could re-use your box with most 18" subwoofers and probably get similar extension but with a lot more output.
I have used these in several of my projects. Absolutely the best value bang for the buck in a bass driver I have ever imagined. This driver has all the right stuff: poly cone, rubber surround, 2 inch voice coil, hefty magnet. The 1 1/2 cu ft vented alignment is a tad small from my perspective, but nonetheless sounds really great. Unfortunately, I don't see it offered any longer (fall 2017). BTW, f3 was down to around 30 Hz.
Really? This was my first go with them. I must say, I too love poly cones. I know not everyone lieks them, but I have always been a fan of them. Parts Express looks to still be still offering it - www.parts-express.com/grs-10sw-4-10-poly-cone-subwoofer-4-ohm--292-482 I may take this and turn it into a much smaller box for my diy sound bar. I personally have been pleased with the sound as well.
Check out my video "Satellite Subwoofer Speakers" where I use one in a very successful active speaker system.
I'll do that right now. I'm looking forward to seeing it!
I have the 8 inch version in my home office setup and a built a monster box for the 12 inch version of this sub for my basement theater system. The 8 sounds great in the office and the 12 is ok. More time is need to dial the 12 in since I don't use that very often.
It's all about getting the alignment right. The ten inch version offers a moderate sized vented alignment, don't know about the 8 and 12 inch versions. Sealed alignments and small vented alignments don't sound near as good to my ears. Check out my video "Bass Speakers" for more info: ua-cam.com/video/SWZyWeVQYd8/v-deo.html
I have the 12" version, I just slapped it into a bandpass enclosure and it is quite impressive. If you wanted to do some cheap and loud car audio these are great subs. When modeled in WINisd the cone excursion was never anywhere near x-max.
Nice video! any recommended amplifier for it?
Nice informational video
Would a T-line not be better suited for this? The lowend extension would be kept but it would help smooth the peaks. Plus in a budget build with not much room for an EQ could save some bucks for something else. Even though t-lines are big it's a little more practical than that behemoth even if you went for the 12 inch variant.
I modeled the 12sw-4 in HornResp and it doesn't really want to hit those lows no matter how big I make the line... Like, really big and it still won't
Great video Toid! This could work for the right person. Great info here.
Impulse Audio Thanks!
I;m really looking forward to seeing the rest of your Life S5 build. That is an awesome build! ua-cam.com/video/AbkvGmoITpA/v-deo.html
I've got a midrange and tweeter out of an old 12" 3 watt loudspeaker that I built years ago. The original woofers were paper and the Arizona sun rotted the cones and surrounds. Can you use these 4 ohm woofers be used with 8 ohm miss and tweeters? Also, have you tried using the Mach one replacement woofers from Parts Express. Back in the day they had a nice warm resonance. I'd love to use a pair of them in my next speaker project!
With the 0.9ish QTS I'm gonna try this in a low power OB setup. Model says it will have a 24Hz F3 on an 18x18" baffle!!!
hi, i have a auna sub which have an 60w 6ohm sub in it, can i put this 4 ohm sub on the auna amplifier ? i wanna upgrade the old sub with this one cuz when i turn the volume up for long time the sub starts overheat and smells bad.
Those are the same box size specs on my custom 18’s!!
I've got a Renegade RXV1200 that looks to be a rebrand of the GRS 12SW-4. However, it is rated to 300Wrms while the GRS is rated to 120Wrms. What do you suggest I run it at?
Please tell me , IF I have to use this in my sedan , whats your best advice , Please .... Thank you .
Do you have any videos on a 20 Hertz tuned enclosure for a um 15-22 or any plans for sale
You are building what I would give up on when I play with a sub in a speaker box design program!
Lol, most people would. I am just that crazy, I guess :)
Hi man i have a SW 301 kenwood subwoofer with 110 watts i think
So i want to Know how many watts needed for subwoofer cone for the app
Please assist
I have one of the 12" Chinese parts express subs (I think it was about $20 too) stuffed into an old organ tone cabinet with a 15" PR. Pretty solid down to 20 or a nick lower. I like going cheap when possible.
These are killer for an SQ build in home low power application. Tuned for about 30 and a bit of EQ and some subtle driver mods and you have a very fast, and very linear bottom end that complements a very musical setup. A great combination for a modest set of 2 way bookshelf speakers for sure. And tuning for 30 hz you can get away with a box less than half the size of this video, and gain a bit of power handling as well.
Love your vids! Watch those cold solder joints though.
Ryan's Bryan, will do
I am so happy I discovered this part of youtube .
I gave you a thumbs up just for building that huge ridiculous box. I would love to have that box for a home audio setup. Use this box for the brown notes and build another subwoofer enclosure tuned to 45-50hz for a nice 5.2 surround.
did you stuff the subwoofer?
That's a nice ass box. Great video
I bought 2 pioneer 8 ohm rubber edge 12 inch woofers with a 65 ounce magnet that were 19 hz from MCM electronics an I put them in a middle ported box that was meant for a car..I used them in my house under a bench so they were basically out of sight I used it as a subwoofer I used a bash amp from a sub woofer I bought from a pawn shop..an it sounded great.. that combined with 2 pair of klipsch RF3ii an klipsch center at low volume I heard noisees coming from parts of my house that were being affected by the low bass note.. my wife was a little bit confused as to why we were hearing creaks an rattles an I told her why then she understood..but wasn't happy...lol
When soldering your wires to the loudspeaker pins, you shouldn't melt the solder onto your iron but heat the metal first then apply the solder to it. Sorry for the bad english, hope you got the hint.
So after all of this, what's your recommended cabinet volume?
For this build, the box size is listed at 4:15
How much RMS the amplifier must have to playing It?
I like your dedication
FSXgta thank you!
It's all in the enclosure. If I've got time I might make a new, way better enclosure for my z2300 subwoofer. I've used it for a while now and the fs is much lower than it used to be. It's pretty soft now. It can go down to 35hz with the crappy enlosure it comes. i bet I can make it at least 25hz with the right enclosure. With the 2 way Pioneer satellites I've got it'll make for a good 2.1 speaker set. It would sound awesome in my small room.
Sweet..do the video how to use the new WinISD 2016?
To hit the lowest possible frequency, I found that the GRS 12SW-4 12" drivers are the best ratio quality/price. Just ordered 16 of them to build 4 sealed box with 4 drivers in each. I think this should be able to output enought SPL to reach the 14Hz after curve EQ for flat response : I can post some measurements in some weeks !
I would love to see a video of this when you finish it.
Post a vid about it!
Where are measurements dude :(
@@DeathRono sorry, I didn't saw the notifications :) Here are 2 videos, in French however:
1. Nvidia control at ~115-120dBZ peak SPL ua-cam.com/video/jfjVvNXlVVA/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
2. Another longer video where I compared the bass wall of 16x GRS 12SW-4 12" versus an "infraflex" prototype ua-cam.com/video/K_t_rukBHE4/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
@D4rk51d332
@Stan_the_Belgian
@DeathRono
Sorry, didn't saw the notifications :P
Here are 2 videos, in French though:
1. Nvidia control trailer with =~115-120dBZ peak SPL (=~105-110dBC SPL), my door entrance was vibrating xD: ua-cam.com/video/jfjVvNXlVVA/v-deo.html
2. Another video where I compare the wall made of 16x GRS 12SW-4 12" drivers versus an "infraflex" prototype: ua-cam.com/video/K_t_rukBHE4/v-deo.html
Sound was really really good, but today I use another prototype for reproducing the low part of the audio spectrum (
one of the first few vids watched here. liken what im seein. cool project completed.
Thanks! I appreciate that!
indopleaser liken... did they teach you that in school?
Interesting build. Checking out your response curve on PE forums, it looks like the box is tuned a bit low yet with a roughly 10ft^3 chamber. It looks to be more of an upper 20's sub to me, which still isn't bad for a $20 driver. I just finished building a 2.5ft^3 sub for my computer using a Dayton 10 HF and, using very little EQ, it's +/-0.5dB to 20Hz measured outside on my driveway.
Wow that is really impressive! I may have to pick one of those up to play around with. Ported or sealed?
It's one heck of a 10 for the price and I would definitely recommend it to anyone looking for a deep SQ sub on a budget! I thought about going with the 12, but that needed a notably bigger box and I wanted to keep the box relatively small. Mine is ported around 22Hz.
I am pretty impressed with the sub. You really can't ask for more for the price you are paying.
I check the frequency range of subs and they show 30 hertz up. How did you get 20 hertz?
That’s not saying it can’t play beyond 30hz. That spec especially for a subwoofer can be confusing. The best thing to do is to model it to see what it can do in the enclosure you design. In fact I ended up redesigning a subwoofer using these subs and it is quite impressive: ua-cam.com/video/CvUjWNwPHDU/v-deo.htmlsi=OaEHoUYu2cNM2ARs
What program are you using? And do you know of another box build calculator for free besides winISD?
michael baum I am using rew. Although that first measurement was off. Unfortunately had some bad equipment I gave me a bad reading. Look in the description for the actual graph. Jeff bagby's passive crossover designer also has a box model modeling tool in it. There is also another one on his download site: audio.claub.net/software/jbabgy/jbagby.html Finally there is Unibox.
You might consider using a folded horn cabinet to tune it to emphasize the low end without being mammoth in size.
You are thinking in the right direction, but the enclosure will be huuuge - 20hz horns require big mouths, and proper loading needs lenght = huge box
Maybe a t-line?
I would just go 4th order with a cheap sub. T-line needs to be large no matter what's in it.
That high Q a driver in a horn will need an even bigger box or the motion will just be choked off. It's the wrong type of driver for bang for your space. It needed a huge box and low tuning cause of the crappy motor.
Happy perfect size to use as a TV stand and so you're settled Center Channel speaker and your TV your aunt's right on top of it make a perfect centerpiece and still have good sound
Now you just need a 20" driver to slap on that box. I wonder how low it would go with that size driver and a radiator instead on the back with the same diam.
Ya need four of these set up as isobaric in a cone to magnet configuration... Parallel the two for a 2ohm load... Your enclosure will end up at about 53% of what it is now or there abouts... Cone to cone would work as well but kind of ugly seeing the cheap basket etc stick out...
Yup. Here's the video: ua-cam.com/video/CvUjWNwPHDU/v-deo.html
I have 2 of the 12 inch versions best bang for the buck!!👍👍👍
They really are a great value. I ended up using it in my latest build, where I cloned a Definitive Technology speaker with built in powered sub: ua-cam.com/video/lo7gQGEiI2E/v-deo.html&t
I have two of the 8" version in my subwoofer and when i turn it up to 50% volume my entire rom is shaking 😮
What happend if i make smaller box?
Not completely the whole story.
First of all, we are seeing the bafflestep here. So if you filter at en proper frequency, the -3dB point will be much better.
Second is that the huge box is because of the high Qts.
This can be electrically compensated.
Although that's easier in a closed box, it can be done in a ported box as well.
its smart you build a box who you can upgrade the wofer on if not a 10 ink will be good enought you can upgrade up to 15 ink hehe nice building seems a litle fun when the element is so small at that box :D
Iam an engineer, but my specialty lies in mechanical. I would love to learn more about how to build a sub box and make my own 2.1 sound system, even a dolby digital 5.1 would be a fun build. what info do you have for making sub boxes?
thanks
I did a series on how to figure that out using WinISD found here: ua-cam.com/video/Ol7K5wQrFAg/v-deo.html I hope it helps
video: 🤫
outro: 💥
Now find a
GRS 12SW-4HE 12" Paper Cone Rubber Surround High Excursion Subwoofer 4 Ohm says it does 20 hz just need to know the dimensions of the box that would do 20 hz
I'd LOVE to have some FRD and ZMA files for these.. anyone?
i have a logitech 10inch subwoofer from a z-5500 speaker system,
i heard its made by tangband.
i love the woofer so much giant motor and a high roll surround
i want to make a bew box for it.
has someone a idea?
i got it from a thrift shop for 7.50euro
Sadly your driver isn't from tang band.. you see.
The only logitech system that did actually have tang bad drivers were the logitech z560 speakers back in the early 2000s. and those drivers didnt have a logitech logo on it.
try reaudio.com/box.php
to design your own box. and see where it takes you. ive used it quite a few times and it works great
It is really hard to make a ported box for a subwoofer without it's T/S parameters. However you can build a tool to get those fairly cheap: techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/1313049-easy-zma-and-t-s-parameters-using-the-limp-module-in-arta-an-illustrated-guide If you want a high end one, you can buy a nice one from Parts Express: www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dats-v2-computer-based-audio-component-test-system--390-806 Once you have your T/S parameters it is very easy to make a box tuned to your subwoofer
My astro van has 16 of these exact subwoofers in 28 plus cubic feet wall tuned 22hz. They play everything with ease.
Got a video?
I got a dayton audio 18in classic that i need help on building a box for i come from car audio so im trying to understand why to tune so low to say 20 hz is it for room size
That's a great question. It's really two fold. The first's is you want to get to about twenty hertz, since movies do have sound that go down to 20 Hertz. another reason why you wanted to knit lower than you would have car subwoofer is due to room game and or cabin game period in a car you have a lot of cabin game because it's such a small space, which can help hiy those lower frequencies. In a home, you have a much larger space insert your room game is going to be much less and therefore you're going to have to tune it lower.
@@Toid ok so what size ported box and tune would u recomend going with for the dayton audio 18in classics dcs450-4 my room is 20ft long by 12 ft wide i have enough room to build a 15 cu ft box if i needed too i like car sub boxed built to 35hz if that would give u a idea of what im after is the most spl i can get and most sq i can get kinda 50/50
Harold Powell Youd dig deeper without taking too much space with a sealed box with that driver!
Can you use a 4ohm speaker in a home stereo that's 8ohm output?
Yes just play at a lower volume and be careful. Your amp might start getting warm
@Nobby Heads you mean 2, 4ohm in serial or parallel in 1 speaker? That becomes a 8ohm, speaker?? Didnt know that...
Amazing if that's the case
Out of curiosity, given how cheap these woofers are, why didn't get two and make an isobarik box and make it a much more reasonable size?
That's a great question. I actually did that with four of these found here: ua-cam.com/video/CvUjWNwPHDU/v-deo.html it is crazy impressive for the price!
could run iso baric get 8 subs double the power handling and up output an keep box same size
Did 4 of them here: this is tremendous! ua-cam.com/video/CvUjWNwPHDU/v-deo.html
@@Toid thats awesome !!! , do they sound decent or are they just low end monsters?
@@hiviman they sound good. You can actually read more about it on the forum. There's at least one of the guy over there that's built it. You can get his impressions as well. toidsdiyaudio.com/community/diy-subwoofers/iso-100-build-20hz-for-under-100/#post-6117
@@Toid ok thanks for the info an good vids
Thinking of getting one of those
For the price, you can't go wrong
i need a free air sub for a car, do you think, if i could get the ohms to match, using the 12SW-4 this would be a good candidate, it actually needs a dual core sub. do you have any suggestions? i believe its a 2 ohm system, factory 90's caddie non-bose system.
Taking a quick glance at the QTS, it looks like it might be a good candidate for free air. If you want to model it, I just did a quick video on free air, open baffle and what to look for and how to model it here: ua-cam.com/video/GLKZVBYi-Lc/v-deo.html
awesome thanks for the link, i cant wait to get something to update the sub. I replaced it but it still has the same issue.
ZelosZelo You are Welcome. I put a new link here: ua-cam.com/video/GLKZVBYi-Lc/v-deo.html
thank you, but the video was removed. something i over looked, the factory sub is a dual voice coil....i wonder if i can find one of those cerwin vega free air subs i.ytimg.com/vi/v3mfM9yfjY0/maxresdefault.jpg
You can get a bunch of Dual Voice Coil subs at Parts Express. Just so you know, as long as you match the wattage and ohms, you shouldn't need it to be dual voice coil.
In Parts Express speaker specifications it says that Frequency Response is from 34 to 800Hz, it does not get to 20Hz.
That's not how that works.
@@Toid That's interesting if it can get to 20Hz I would like to try to build one but why does the manufacturer puts Frequency Response is from 34 to 800Hz if it can get to 20Hz? It must have some limitations compared to other much more expensive subwoofers.
With a box that big you may as well run isobaric to save space.
I think it's easier to build a good sub than a good tweeter.
U can get 20hz from a 10$ bluetooth speaker put it in a closet /cabinet something super big with a lot of space inside that is at a corner in a room that resonates at 20hz and then go to the opposite corner of the room
I can't hear anything below 28Hz. 32Hz is really where my hearing actually works though. At 28 I hear it but it's a bit iffy. Just saying is all :)
lexzbuddy .... musically speaking, there's nothing below 32 Hz. 20 Hz is considered the bottom end of human hearing for a young person, which is still a stretch for everyone else.
Song?!
you need a t line for it to play a 20 hz tone flat
Could I put it in my guitar amp? It would break the windows though.
a full range pa woofer would be better for a guitar amp
How did I know that you’d have a wall the size of a grand piano.
I understand this is an old video but the new HE version of these GRS subwoofers blow these older versions out of the water in specs and performance and don't cost that much more.
this is why subwoofers back in the day when you really wanted low and extension need to be as big as a closet and I do mean a extra large Closet in about as tall as one and you'd run for 12 inch woofers and that's how you'd actually get base in your house way back in the day over 20-something years ago
Do i have to build it that large?
You should check out the Iso100 build I did
@@Toid I wonder if I can make a 2 driver version and simply split the enclosure in half?
No replacement for displacement - as this video proves.
Size is a dealbreaker. Unless I could somehow turn it into a plant holder, ottomon, or TV stand! Surely there are other shapes that could have been done. Maybe if you stretched it and flattened it you could run it like a step along a wall.
Absolutely. There are a lot of things that could be done. One thing, is you could do an isobaric with this sub, and make it considerably smaller (4cubic ft) and still get the same response. Or you can make it eve smaller, but you'll lose response. If you kept it this size, it might be a great behind the couch subwoofer, end table or coffee table.
If your impressed with the GRS check out the Dayton 10" classic series woofer... Yes woofer - not subwoofer... Slap it in a .94 cu.ft. sealed box, 48db 50hz low pass xover, filled with polyfill... Pump about 300watts into and each let them dance lol... I ran 2 of them in my old s10 lowrider...For two cheap ass 10's wiggling my doors flexing the cab they were great..!!! My buddy who always bought super high end crap could not beleive what he heard then wanted me to stuff 8 of them in his camaro...
houseoffire72 I think I actually have an 10 inch classic woofer. I was working on a three-way design with it
123Toid they work nice in a 3way. Try it as a sub like I mentioned with specs. Its really pretty impressive for what it is. I built my box with 2 layers of 3/4" mdf.
houseoffire72 MI
Mini subwoofer in a Big kabinet lol
Lower price equals lower hz: $20 = 20hz.
lmao I'll take the free option then if that's the case
I've got a few items from parts express and always had issues with them. Haven't shopped them in over two years.. But good video, and subs like this would be great form DIY home theater systems.
Sorry to hear that. I usually shop with them almost on a weekly basis and haven't had any issues. I would definitely encourage you to give them another shot sometime.
@@Toid
I might, it's been awhile.. again great video sir.
@@mikewaters6339 thank you. I appreciate you hearing that. I've really been working hard to get some videos out that I hope you guys enjoy
@@Toid
I just subscribed to your channel, because of your interactions with your viewers and my comments. Have a blessed day and look forward to seeing more.
@@Toid can you please link me a amplifier box that is suitable for this subwoofer I'm a kid and I'm making my own subwoofer I want the cheapest amplifier suitable for this possible.
Meh. Back in college I built a ~4.5f^3 box with a cheap
It's not hard to produce 20 Hz. In fact it's cheaper to make a driver that goes very low in a huge box than to make one that goes less low, but in a smaller box. If a woofer has a weak magnet and soft suspension, it wil go low in a large box. Simple as that.
Name of music in 2:13?
BollardSpeaker 26 lensko - circle
Lensko - Let's Go [NCS Release]
IB would have made more sense and kept the cost closer to 20 USD.
That box would of been prefect for 2 8 100 watt subs and probably have better power handling and louder bass respondents at 20+hz
You don't need a massive box like that to get 20 Hz, my PB-1000's cabinet is 20 x 14 x 18 inches and tuned to 22 Hz. Plays flat down to about 23 Hz aswell, and it goes down to 16 Hz usable and 13 Hz but basically unusable.
You do for this $20 subwoofer. SVS manufacturers their own drivers to fit their parameters and many manufactureres of subwoofers have a DSP built-in to get a better low end response. it is pretty neat to see what some companies like SVS and HSU can do.
123Toid Yeah that’s true, the driver in the PB-1000 is pretty boring besides the massive surround and like 2 - 2.5 inches of excursion. It’s pretty expensive for most people but definitely the craziest 10 inch i’ve ever heard or seen. I don’t think any subwoofer play flat down to 20 Hz without ANY eq. But really interessing project, i enjoyed this video :D
Now the cost of wood would be 2k per box lmao
Haha, good call
If you haven't seen it. You should check out when I put 4 of these in an iso box. The performance is insane! ua-cam.com/video/CvUjWNwPHDU/v-deo.html
@@Toid yo that’s freakin tight
@@Toid ACTUALLY ALREADY WATCHED IT LOL
Nice 😁 pretty soon I'm going to throw that in a subwoofer shootout. I want to put that up against the CSS sdx12 and two different 15-in subwoofers. All DIY. I'm really curious how well it'll perform versus those. Overall, I'm just excited to see which one I like the best.
I really appreciate you show the building but cut out all of that pesky high pitch construction noise
Its exactly $26.94 on Ebay
whats so unbelievable about a 10 inch going down to 20hz? you can get that with a 6 inch in a small room and right placement
a speaker cone moving at 20 hz and a speaker cone reproducing sound at 20 hz are not the same thing. any woofer/sub woofer can move its cone at 20 hz but those that can actually reproduce sound down to 20 hz without blowing up are usually expensive... real expensive like in a 10 grand+ range. a qts of 0.63 is unusually high, you won't find many drivers having that kind of qts on the market especially not that cheap.
Cabinet
dude the music is just cheap.. but video great!
Lukáš Pastva but of copyrights he can’t use real music
Or you know - none
For a 10” that’s a big box 📦
With a Qts of 0.6 the sub only delivers the 20Hz when the weather is about the same as when you measured the TSPs. If atmospheric pressure, humidity or temperature differ it might need a different enclosure. Above a Qts of 0.45 there is not much tolerance left and the system is very sensitive to parameter changes, as the German magazine Hobby HiFi discovered.
You built a vented box to get that 20Hz!...That is basically a loud, rumbling, groaning Home theater bass subwoofer. Vented boxes are not very musical, compared to sealed box subs but they are way more efficient: There are almost no genuine musical first fundamental notes below 50 Hz. There is a good reason why sealed boxes, which are way less efficient, give far more realistic-sounding notes. The cones do not wobble. This why good sealed box subs cost twice as much, whether by Velodyne or any other mfgr as their mass-market vented subs. It is the same reason why good shock absorbers make for a far more controlled ride than do bad springs on an auto.
Larry, you are probably used to a lot of car and commercial subwoofers, which most of what you stated would be true. When designing and building your own subwoofers you can control air port velocity, which can make port noise completely inaudible. Unfortunately most manufacturers don't do this for a variety of reasons. The first, is typically the box has to be bigger than what most manufacturers want. This is due to the fact that in order to reduce or eliminate port noise, the port would have to be bigger, which also increase the length of the port, ehich then increase the size of the box. So instead, manufacturers put it in a much smaller port, flare it mightly and hope you don't mind the port noise. Not ideal by any means. However, a properly designed ported or passive radiator setup can sound just as good as a sealed.
You are right, about the musical notes. However, for home theater the magic number to hit is 20 hz. It is pretty neat, as this sub was inaudible at 20hz (like it should) but you feel the power all around you. It actually shook things over 10 feet away, but with no audible sound. Of course, bass 20hz and under should be felt not heard. Great comment. Thanks for all your time to write it!
Actually I have no interest in auto subwoofers, and I find your response and its tone patronizing to assume so. Even Parts Express, which is not otherwise known for serious information, has some data about this. Suggest you read it. The concept has nothing to do with port diameter and rush, it has to do with the physics of the cone coming back to rest after the initial pulse as opposed to continuing to wooble/oscillate after the first pulse, which give more noise/output but less pure notes. Have you not seen drummers in a symphony put the hands of the skin of a kettle drum after they hit it? This is why.
larry, I am sorry if you felt I was being patronizing, that was never my intention. Just for clarification I did say "car and commercial subwoofers." The commercial subwoofers I was referring to were home audio. You are always welcome to a difference of opinion. There is very little learning without it. And my only intentions are to teach and learn from others. Having said that, if you look up the highest rated audiophile subwoofers you will see both sealed and ported designs. There are benefits to both. In fact the Golden Ear Trinitron series, which is a renowned reference loudspeaker line exclusively has powered ported subwoofers built into their tower speakers. They along with many others have been able to produce reference sound from ported subwoofers. SVS is another manufacturer that prides themselves on high quality sound. They even go into great detail of the differences in ported and sealed here: www.svsound.com/blogs/svs/75367747-sealed-vs-ported The basics of the article states that sealed will typically sound better for critical music listening (note the word typically). Even they know this is not always the case. They even note later that their ported design is on par with their sealed from 30hz to 120hz, the typical music bandwidth. You are welcome to bring new facts to the table that I may not be aware of. But in my experience of building and testing subwoofers, a properly tuned ported subwoofer can sound just as good a sealed subwoofer and can get lower extension without the need for room gain.
Larry, you say Patronizing ? WTH ?!?! Butthurt Much ? Geeze,,, Smh...
01:30
So it can hit 20 Hz at -25dB and the box is massively oversized!🤔
To be fair that's not really very impressive at all. If it was say -6 dB or something like that then it would be a lot more workable, or -12 dB so an EQ could raise it up to 0 dB.
As it stands though, that's like looking at any driver's -25 dB point in a WINisd simulation, just seems pointless.
Would have been more interesting to see how it performs in a sensible sized box and maybe not focus on such a low -dB point. Otherwise you may as well just pick a frequency all the way down to the lowest point.
I do really enjoy your videos, have learnt a lot from them, maybe I'm being harsh but I just don't quite get the point of this video.🤔 Maybe I'm missing something.🤔
my 4" can play 20 hertz
Aydin Lobas "can play" What level of sound pressure do they put out? 100db of noise? 20Hz Is breathtaking at 100dB. Thing with subwoofers is that the lower the FS and QMS the lower the efficiency, therefore lower sensitivity... 4" drivers usually have FS around 120Hz in which case they are ALL midrange drivers, or just hyped bullshit.
Lol my 9mm earplugs can go to 20hz. Aint that cool. Although id consider my Ground Zero 38XSPL-D2 a little bit louder at 20hz
Since when is 20hz at 100db breathtaking? That’s really not loud or intense at all.
My Phone can play 20 Hz
The Tech Guy By Aidan Shane Wade my 0,001" play 1 Hz tho
breakin in subs??? fiction...
You should watch this ua-cam.com/video/CccMMFL0_Nc/v-deo.html
If I looked it up on eBay.co.uk it would probably be £80
From what I have seen when ever the QES is close to 1.0 or over you know the woofer is sh_t and only good for open baffle (if that.) Seems most of the Goldwoods and GRS woofers are all crap. a few are ok but most cannot provide a flat response unless it has an infinite baffle.
People REALLY have a hard time separating the idea that a subwoofer that looks fancy, or has an exotic cone material, or a heavy basket, or a fancy spider, likely won't sound any better than a sub like this at normal listening levels. Sure, a sub with a fat surround and long mechanical excursion will get louder in its own, but it won't sound as good as two drivers doing the same volume, and few, IF ANY, boutique subwoofer drivers will sound notably better than this one. All the things people look for, tonality, "speed", accuracy, tightness, almost entirely comes from the quality of your midbass drivers, the way they are crossed over and hand off responsibility to the sub, and their location in the space relative to the listener. If you do a double-blind listening test between the 12" version of this driver, and some fancy, expensive driver, at moderate listening levels, you WILL NOT know which one you are hearing. The story of the Emperor's New Clothes was practically written for the audio community. People WILL THINK THEY HEAR A DIFFERENCE between cheap cables and fancy cables, cheap amps and equally rated expensive amps, and cheap subs and fancy subs at relative levels, when the most important thing, be far, is your main speakers, your room, and your processing (crossovers). Manufacturing practices have changed the whole ballgame. Dare to let someone do a double blind testbon you someday. But be careful, it might take some of the excitement out of this hobby for you...
technically it did 20 hz, but not at F3 lol,