Do you realize that you’re the best teacher on the internet! It’s amazing how you have changed my game. Like yesterday I made 4 out of 5 long table bank shots using the 1/2 ball aiming point. I rotate every day and pick a different aim point. I look at all your videos every day. Thanks Brian
I learned this system years ago from Bert Kinister videos way before the internet. It's a great system for banks. Thanks for sharing an updated version.
Of all the UA-cam billiard teachers you are absolutely the very best bar none! You explain thing so easy to understand. I mean it, any other teacher would not go though the time to explain each detail like you do. Stay tune for another dumb question of mine. Steve
This system is Gold!! I won my 10 ball match last night w/ a 4.5 which became a 5 cuz of cue ball offset. Thanks, Brian!!! Also, loving Poolology, man!!
Mabuhay. Great to know how to do a bank shot that is on the rail or an inch out. Been trying to decipher how to bank it. Now it is clearly explained. Btw, I asked my cousin in texas to purcahse your poolology book as his bday present for me and it was shipped already. Hope to rcvd it soon. Been using your system and getting use to it just by watching your videos. Maraming salamat from pilipinas.
Good tutorial. waiting for the next video on end rail banking. I have purchased your 3books, poolology from ebay, playing to win and playing to win exercise book from Lulu but 2weeks down am yet to get them nor get the tracking details for the postage. Kindly advice.. Good stuff though...
Thanks! Lulu should've sent purchase confirmation and shipping info, but they are sometimes a bit slow on filling orders and mailing out books. Unlike Amazon, who keeps the books in stock, lulu is a print-on-demand service. Occasionally, if they have a lot of orders to handle, it can take up to 2 or 3 weeks to get a book printed and bound and ready for shipping. They handle thousands of authors and have over a million books available on their website. The longest I've ever waited to get something from lulu is about 3 weeks, though typically it only takes 7 to 10 days. Let me know if you don't get any info on your order by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. Thanks again.
I like that you've acknowledged that CB-OB distance plays a role in fractional aiming. Even The Beard never admitted to this. We went round and round about it at times.
Thanks. It makes a big difference with just a few inches between cb and ob, but less of a difference with more distance between the balls. I mean, aiming for a halfball hit from 6in away, compared to 20in away, results in more than a 7° change in shot direction. But the difference between shooting the shot from 20in and 40in is just a little more than a 1° difference in shot direction.
@@Poolology101 Yep. To be totally fair, Freddie did kinda sorta admit that distance matters, but he thought it would be too confusing to people watching his videos or reading his books.
Good stuff! I understand your instructions well enough to go back and teach the system to others. And to me, that's the mark of good video instructions! Thanks! This is badd ass! One other thing you could do for me [a minor ask] is tell me how you made the video, i.e., what software and what camera, as I would like to take a stab at making some content for my students [juniors and adults], and even others that don't know me! Thanks in advance!!
Looks helpful for these tricky parallel cases where classic systems fail because there is no angle. But when you've got a substantial angle, reverse engineering the zero line from aiming points 4, 5, etc. feels counterproductive because it's much faster to deduct it from a straight bank line.
I practiced my bank shots today the 1/2 and the 5/8 shots dropped. When I tried the 1/8 shot I used a piece of chalk and my shot didn’t even come close. My cue ball was dead straight in line with object ball, I noticed on your video you had a little cue ball angle when shooting the 1/8 shot. Maybe it was just the camera angle, I even put just a little spin on the cue, but still came up short. Steve
I understand what you are saying about the real job my friend i would like to make more videos for beginner players i just simply don't have the time or the equipment to do so. But I also love learning the advanced stuff for people like you😂
Hi Brian. It's really great banking system. You said that it only work for OB near or frozen to the rail. May I ask why it did not work for, let say, the OB is 2 diamond away from the rail? Is there anyway we can apply this system on that situation? Thanks a lot.
@@nguyenmanh4100 it works for very close or frozen balls because the ob isn't rolling into cushion (no forward momentum). To use it for ob's that are a foot or so away from the cushion, you have to shoot firm enough for the ball to slide all the way to the cushion (no rolling). When doing this, you have to use the track lines, imagining where the ob would be if it were froze to the cushion, then shoot it firm to that spot.
Absolutely. Being a good kicker can really pay off, but sometimes a jump shot might be the only option. So it's good to learn how to do a little bit everything.
On a 7ft Diamond table with month old felt replacement, every attempt banked VERY short, at least 1/4 diamond, and I had to compensate alot to get a ball to fall. When it did fall, I scratched in the same side left corner pocket. Apparently I'm going to have to continue to work on my technique...
@@normanwick3929 many times just a little less speed will widen the bank out some. But yes, I've seen some diamonds play short, then on a different day they'll play as expected (humidity and room temperature affect the table play quite a bit).
This a good banking reference method for half table. Have you figured out when object ball is past the middle pocket and have to bank way cross corner? I hope I made myself clear.
In this video the 7 ball is 2 1/2 diamond up the table and on the #7 video the 7 Ball is 3 diamonds up the long rail. How come they both go in the pocket when your aiming on the outer edge of the chalk when one is 2 1/2 and the other is 3 diamonds up the table.I’m confused.
Good catch! This reinforces something I said in Part 2, about the aiming numbers not being exact aim points but rather "consistent aiming references". So let's look at what happened here... I quickly made the 20+ second video and placed the 7 ball half a diamond higher than I have it in this video. 🤪 So why did it still go in? The pocket is twice as wide as the ball. Notice that the 7ball dragged its feet going in on both videos (was close to hitting the facing point on the long rail). I hit the shot very accurately from the 3rd diamond (short video) and it almost caught that facing point. In this video I hit the 7ball a little thick and it almost caught that same facing point. If I had hit it more accurately, it would've likely went in on the other side of the pocket (close to hitting the facing point on the end rail side of the pocket). There's only about a 2 degree difference between banking the ball from the 3rd diamond and banking it from 2.5 diamonds. Such a small difference allows the same aiming reference to be used for either shot, because the margin for error at the pocket opening for these two banks is about 2 degrees. For a perfect center-pocket bank from the 3rd diamond, the aim should be a touch thinner than a #7 aim. And from 2.5 diamonds, a perfect #7 aim would likely send the ball into the other side of the pocket (end rail facing side). Remember, 7 is just the aiming reference for balls near this area. Sometimes aiming for a #7 hit works perfectly, and other times the shot might need tweaked, a little thicker or thinner than a dead #7 aim. That's where experience and practice come into the mix.
Eddie Taylor who was one of the best bankers of all time and most claim the greatest had one rule about banking balls that were frozen to the rail and that is you NEVER hit them with draw to avoid a kiss. Naturally thats what we want to think is to draw the ball away but it actually makes it worse and it puts forward roll ever so slightly on object ball and makes it kiss faster because it also takes a little bit for the draw on cueball to grab and spin back as well.
Brian, I haven't seen this system before. I really like it for close to the rail shots. I've been using the 8/3 ratio for close, fast shots but right on the rail has been inconsistent for me using that system. Thanks for the explanation. One thought - your explanation of stepping by half diamonds out to zero might need more explanation for shots not close to the rail. It could use its own video. Maybe combining 2/1, 8/3, and this system. By the way, does this system have a name?
@@Poolology101You should name it and frame it. I’d suggest the Rail 8 system since it uses 1/8th ball aiming points. (I’m not a serious student of banking systems, so not sure if that name has been used before.)
What the system when shooting the length of the table? Say the ball is a spot shot and the cue ball is one diamond over from center. Does every half diamond on the long rail increase the same way as a short bank going the width of the table? If I screwed up asking the question so you don’t understand what I mean don’t answer it, I’ll understand. Thanks
Long banks a more challenging due to the smaller margin for error. I made a long bank video the other day but haven't had time to edit and upload it yet. I'll have it up in a couple of days.
Where did you learn this? This is the first time anyone has taken the time to explain this method. Now here is my next question. Your making all these shots without any spin, when would you use spin on these shots? Steve
I learned these banks through experimentation, except for the halfball at the 1st diamond. I got that out of a book titled "Banking With the Beard". As far as using spin on these shots, with my cue it works like this: If I have a #6 aim (quarter ball shot), I can use a #5 aim with outside spin. But this is only if I need the outside spin, either for cb position or if the balls are dirty/dull (which causes more collision-induced throw than normal). Basically, depending on speed and distance between cb and ob, I adjust the aim about 1/8 to 1/4 thinner or thicker when applying english. But different cue shafts will get slightly different results, so it's best to figure it out on your own with your own cue. Sometimes, especially playing the game of 1-pocket, inside spin is used on a bank to kill or hold the cb. I aim these types of shots thicker also.
Brian! It’s Steve from seattle. If you put an object ball on the first diamond on the short rail and the cue ball on the first diamond on the long rail so you have a straight shot, my question is how much English are you putting on the cue ball.
What is the difference between your bank video and Brandon the billiard guy bank video his bank video is on UA-cam also. I’m just curious. Thanks steve
I have no clue. Brandon has over 350 videos on UA-cam! I found a few where he is teaching basic bank shots using the diamonds, also found one where he teaches about using english on the banks. I couldn't find one where he banks balls that are frozen or near a cushion. I'm not sure which video you're asking about.
It depends on the speed you're using. If it's a backcut bank, the cb should be rolling into the ob, not sliding. A sliding cb will push the ob off line and the bank will come up short of the pocket.
I had a very frustrating time trying to follow your instruction because the diamonds do not line up from one side of the table to the other; it's like an optical illusion; sorry, but it makes it impossible for me to follow the placement of the ball. Have you tried looking at your video to see what I'm talking about? The only diamonds that are lined up is the first diamond.
@@tennis1836 maybe I should've moved the camera angle for each example. I figured most people would understand that I was lining the shots up parallel to the end rail, 1 diamond out , 1.5 out, 2, 2.5, 3, etc...
@@Poolology101 yes, most people may understand that the cue ball is directly across from the object ball, however, it's not that way when you look at the 2 balls! I learn by watching, not by guessing!
@@tennis1836 lol...when it comes to learning, maybe you should also try listening, in addition to watching. Seriously, the explanation itself is pretty simple to understand. Anyway, thanks for watching.
@@Poolology101, I think this issue might resolve itself if the camera is placed overhead, looking down on the table. Thinking about it, maybe you don't have the overhead room to make that work, which is why you record from the side, which does have the effect of skewing [distorting] the view. Good stuff, nonetheless!
When both balls are parallel to the end rail, the aiming references are 4, 5, 6, 7... For every half diamond that the balls are not parallel, the aim reference changes by 1. The system works for balls that are froze or close to the rail.
When your banking and have a bank shot of a 6 doYou use a 5 with a pinch of outside or would you just use the 6 without any english? What would you do? Thanks steve
I typically use 5 and some outside english. But it really depends on where the cb needs to be next, so sometimes the shot has to be shot as a 6 with no english. And sometimes it might need to be shot using inside english, which would likely require an aiming reference of 5 if shooting firm or 7 if shooting it soft. Firm would cause the cb deflection to hit the ball thinner, while soft would cause the cb to slightly curve/massè more toward the ob.
This is just a reference system. Different tables/cushions will vary slightly, but having a solid reference helps you dial in faster for making these bank shots.
Brian I know I ask you thing question last week ago, and you could not find the video, I was talking about. Let’s give it one more try. Type in Select Billiard banking video. The video will be on UA-cam. The title is An easy way to shoot bank shots in billiard and pool. It should be the very first video you see. If you find it, isn’t this the same system your doing? Thanks steve
Just watched the video. No, it is not the same method I'm showing here. What Brandon is doing is the basic banking method for regular bank shots with a rolling ob. He is showing the diamond track lines from one rail to the other (2 to 1, 3 to 1.5, 4 to 2, etc...). The method I'm showing is for balls that are froze or close to the rail, which means the ob is sliding into the cushion, not rolling.
The camera work is so bad! When you're shooting the #7 ball, your cue ball is placed straight across from the #6 ball! Not good. I was really hoping to learn more about bank shots, but it's very difficult when the video is wacky! Sorry, but this is like watching a movie with one eye closed....
@@tennis1836 like I said... I know I can't please every single viewer with every video I make. The best I can do is evaluate your advice/criticism and try to make future videos better. I think that's a great attitude for me to have. I am always telling people to offer advice that helps improve my videos, and I thank you for your advice. Unfortunately, there's nothing I can do to improve the videos I've already uploaded, other than to say sometimes you just have to listen and pay attention. I will definitely do better with future videos when using the diamonds. I like your advice of using different camera angles to show/clarify what I'm doing. Thanks.
If you're making a video, there must be a reason; perhaps it's because people can actually "see" how to do something....why don't you just watch your video and see what an optical illusion it is and change it? Yes, listening is, of course, important, but it doesn't hold a candle to watching someone perform a technique....I taught thousands of people to play tennis, many who became teaching and/or playing professionals, so I know how to teach.
@@tennis1836 fact is, we learn through paying attention. Sometimes that's strictly a visual process, but most of the time it involves watching AND listening, along with doing. After reviewing the video again, and considering that you are the only viewer who has mentioned having trouble understanding what I'm showing, I believe it's good the way it is. I realize I can't please or satisfy every single person out there every time, so I'm fine with pleasing the vast majority, or the 90% or more that actually don't have a problem with how I've presented this lesson. I do appreciate the feedback, and I'll keep this in mind when I get a chance to make another video that uses diamonds to align the balls. You're definitely right that some shots are difficult to see/figure where the balls are placed. The best I can do is to try to make it better in the future. Thanks again.
Actually, you do see it. Lol. This method helps players develop a good eye and feel for banks, and that is exactly what the best players in the world do. It's called experience. Anyhow, I don't believe you're a real pool player. You are either Stan Shuffett himself (though I don't believe Stan would waste his time commenting of my channel), or you are his wife or some other CTE cheerleader trying to drum up attention for CTE by riding someone else's coattails. That's fine, makes no difference to me or the thousands of aspiring players out there who follow my videos and read my books. Because the truth is, when it works you get good results, and the more you do it the more consistent those results become. In other words... players get better. And that's what matters most for "real" pool players.
Could you clarify cueball position in the start of this video. I understand the aiming points. I do not understand why you are moving the cue all to those specific locations in relation to the aiming points.
@@leonaylesworth3045 initially, the cb is lined straight across from the ob (both cb and ob are equal distance from the end rail). So, when both balls are one diamond away from the rail, that's an aim point of 4. At 1.5 diamonds it's an aim point of 5. At 2 diamonds it's an aim point of 6. Every 1/2 diamond from parallel changes the aim point by 1 (thinner or thicker), depending on the bank.
@ ok thank you. For some reason I was thinking the cueball was lagging behind the object line as you were progressing up the table. I understand now that both are on that line, equally distant from the end rail. It just didn't seem to appear that way at first in the video. Thanks again for the explanation.
@leonaylesworth3045 yeah, another youtuber pointed out that I should've used a different camera angle, or maybe 2 camera angles, to really make it look like what I was describing. I love that type of feedback, so when I get back into making more videos I will hopefully do a much better job. Thanks for watching!
I learned on a snooker table with center spots only on each rail so it was instinct only banking, I always felt pool tables bank a hair different than pool tables, diamonds with soimous on them on them bank short ? Table, rails, cloth ? As a kid all tables had nappy cloth, smooth cloth is very hard for me to shoot on, harder to control English and speed let alone the difference in banking
I'm 75years old I never learned the right way to bank you taught me the right way to bank thanks so much.😊
Awesome! I hope I'm still playing this game at 75! Keep strokin' em up!
Do you realize that you’re the best teacher on the internet! It’s amazing how you have changed my game. Like yesterday I made 4 out of 5 long table bank shots using the 1/2 ball aiming point. I rotate every day and pick a different aim point. I look at all your videos every day. Thanks Brian
Thanks!
I learned this system years ago from Bert Kinister videos way before the internet. It's a great system for banks. Thanks for sharing an updated version.
Awesome! I've never seen the Bert Kinsiter videos, but I know he had some great training stuff.
@@Poolology101 your explanation of this system is more in depth than his. Great video. Thanks again.
@@dshadow3173 thanks!
Of all the UA-cam billiard teachers you are absolutely the very best bar none! You explain thing so easy to understand. I mean it, any other teacher would not go though the time to explain each detail like you do. Stay tune for another dumb question of mine. Steve
Thanks! And no question is dumb.
This system is Gold!! I won my 10 ball match last night w/ a 4.5 which became a 5 cuz of cue ball offset. Thanks, Brian!!! Also, loving Poolology, man!!
Excellent! Thanks!
Thank you. Very helpful. Cheers to No longer winging those shots.
Mabuhay. Great to know how to do a bank shot that is on the rail or an inch out. Been trying to decipher how to bank it. Now it is clearly explained. Btw, I asked my cousin in texas to purcahse your poolology book as his bday present for me and it was shipped already. Hope to rcvd it soon. Been using your system and getting use to it just by watching your videos. Maraming salamat from pilipinas.
Thanks!
Exceptionally explained and easy to adopt. Thank you!
Thanks!
I really enjoyed your video explaining this banking system when the object ball is on or close to the rail. I definitely will be practicing this.
@@dennisweaver532 thanks!
Brian just watched your new video right after I ask my question. What a GREAT learning video! You are the best teacher on the internet bar none! Steve
Thanks!
That was enlightening! I've been playing pool for almost 60 years and that looks very interesting!
Thanks! Hope you find it useful.
this channel is a gift that keeps on giving. thanks for the 2 parts on this. if you have a any 2+ railers that would also be interesting
Working on that!
BC brother you look and sound great. Good little system too. Enjoyed it and hope tp see more.
Excellent video Brian! Long rail bank video using full diamonds and half diamonds would be greatly appreciated.
Brilliant system, can't wait to try it out. Good video, thanks very much. I'm sure this will help me on awkward banks.
Hi Brian! I can't wait to go home and try this!!! Muchas gracias.
Good tutorial. waiting for the next video on end rail banking. I have purchased your 3books, poolology from ebay, playing to win and playing to win exercise book from Lulu but 2weeks down am yet to get them nor get the tracking details for the postage. Kindly advice.. Good stuff though...
Thanks! Lulu should've sent purchase confirmation and shipping info, but they are sometimes a bit slow on filling orders and mailing out books. Unlike Amazon, who keeps the books in stock, lulu is a print-on-demand service. Occasionally, if they have a lot of orders to handle, it can take up to 2 or 3 weeks to get a book printed and bound and ready for shipping. They handle thousands of authors and have over a million books available on their website. The longest I've ever waited to get something from lulu is about 3 weeks, though typically it only takes 7 to 10 days. Let me know if you don't get any info on your order by Tuesday or Wednesday of next week. Thanks again.
Man I truly love watching your videos! Thank you so much for spending the time to film them!! BTW what type of table is that?
Thanks! It's an 8ft Diamond table.
I like that you've acknowledged that CB-OB distance plays a role in fractional aiming. Even The Beard never admitted to this. We went round and round about it at times.
Thanks. It makes a big difference with just a few inches between cb and ob, but less of a difference with more distance between the balls. I mean, aiming for a halfball hit from 6in away, compared to 20in away, results in more than a 7° change in shot direction. But the difference between shooting the shot from 20in and 40in is just a little more than a 1° difference in shot direction.
@@Poolology101 Yep. To be totally fair, Freddie did kinda sorta admit that distance matters, but he thought it would be too confusing to people watching his videos or reading his books.
Great banking system! Going to practice and add this to the toolbox!
Thanks!
Very encouraging video!
I use A,B,C reference points to find what im looking for but as you know banking and kicking is mostly about feel as well
Much appreciated!
Nice!.. you are a pool whiz kid! 🎱
This is amazingly helpful. Thank you
Thanks!
Good stuff! I understand your instructions well enough to go back and teach the system to others. And to me, that's the mark of good video instructions! Thanks! This is badd ass!
One other thing you could do for me [a minor ask] is tell me how you made the video, i.e., what software and what camera, as I would like to take a stab at making some content for my students [juniors and adults], and even others that don't know me! Thanks in advance!!
@@spikelewis9557thanks for the compliments! I use my phone to record the videos, and I edit and add images and text with a video app, "InShot".
Looks helpful for these tricky parallel cases where classic systems fail because there is no angle. But when you've got a substantial angle, reverse engineering the zero line from aiming points 4, 5, etc. feels counterproductive because it's much faster to deduct it from a straight bank line.
Yes, using the straight bank line is an excellent way to decipher any bank. Thanks.
This is a great video. Much thanks
Thank you!
Excellent video
Thanks!
I practiced my bank shots today the 1/2 and the 5/8 shots dropped. When I tried the 1/8 shot I used a piece of chalk and my shot didn’t even come close. My cue ball was dead straight in line with object ball, I noticed on your video you had a little cue ball angle when shooting the 1/8 shot. Maybe it was just the camera angle, I even put just a little spin on the cue, but still came up short. Steve
ua-cam.com/video/LdtVZwvrdAA/v-deo.html
I understand what you are saying about the real job my friend i would like to make more videos for beginner players i just simply don't have the time or the equipment to do so. But I also love learning the advanced stuff for people like you😂
you got me to subscribe lol i love this system
Thanks!
Hi Brian. It's really great banking system.
You said that it only work for OB near or frozen to the rail.
May I ask why it did not work for, let say, the OB is 2 diamond away from the rail? Is there anyway we can apply this system on that situation?
Thanks a lot.
@@nguyenmanh4100 it works for very close or frozen balls because the ob isn't rolling into cushion (no forward momentum). To use it for ob's that are a foot or so away from the cushion, you have to shoot firm enough for the ball to slide all the way to the cushion (no rolling). When doing this, you have to use the track lines, imagining where the ob would be if it were froze to the cushion, then shoot it firm to that spot.
Thank you for this! Would you say bank & kick shots are more valuable than a jump shot? Thx
Absolutely. Being a good kicker can really pay off, but sometimes a jump shot might be the only option. So it's good to learn how to do a little bit everything.
@@Poolology101 Makes sense, I’m a new subscriber, do you have jump shot videos as well then for us newbie’s? Thanks!
@@iantiffin5854 ... here is one jump vid...
ua-cam.com/video/z2rV-kBo6b4/v-deo.htmlsi=_qyFFqIqP9lT9w0B
fántastico meus parabèns, Ubatuba ,Brasil
Thank you! Gracias!
I really enjoy your videos!!! What sized table is this? Does it work the same for all size tables?
It's an 8ft. The method works on all tables. Different cushions may change it a little from table to table, but the concept remains consistent.
On a 7ft Diamond table with month old felt replacement, every attempt banked VERY short, at least 1/4 diamond, and I had to compensate alot to get a ball to fall. When it did fall, I scratched in the same side left corner pocket. Apparently I'm going to have to continue to work on my technique...
@@normanwick3929 many times just a little less speed will widen the bank out some. But yes, I've seen some diamonds play short, then on a different day they'll play as expected (humidity and room temperature affect the table play quite a bit).
This a good banking reference method for half table. Have you figured out when object ball is past the middle pocket and have to bank way cross corner? I hope I made myself clear.
Yes. It's a little trickier. I'll make a video soon.
Thank you I will be watching out for it.@@Poolology101
Very helpful
Thanks!
In this video the 7 ball is 2 1/2 diamond up the table and on the #7 video the 7 Ball is 3 diamonds up the long rail. How come they both go in the pocket when your aiming on the outer edge of the chalk when one is 2 1/2 and the other is 3 diamonds up the table.I’m confused.
Good catch! This reinforces something I said in Part 2, about the aiming numbers not being exact aim points but rather "consistent aiming references". So let's look at what happened here...
I quickly made the 20+ second video and placed the 7 ball half a diamond higher than I have it in this video. 🤪 So why did it still go in?
The pocket is twice as wide as the ball. Notice that the 7ball dragged its feet going in on both videos (was close to hitting the facing point on the long rail). I hit the shot very accurately from the 3rd diamond (short video) and it almost caught that facing point. In this video I hit the 7ball a little thick and it almost caught that same facing point. If I had hit it more accurately, it would've likely went in on the other side of the pocket (close to hitting the facing point on the end rail side of the pocket).
There's only about a 2 degree difference between banking the ball from the 3rd diamond and banking it from 2.5 diamonds. Such a small difference allows the same aiming reference to be used for either shot, because the margin for error at the pocket opening for these two banks is about 2 degrees.
For a perfect center-pocket bank from the 3rd diamond, the aim should be a touch thinner than a #7 aim. And from 2.5 diamonds, a perfect #7 aim would likely send the ball into the other side of the pocket (end rail facing side).
Remember, 7 is just the aiming reference for balls near this area. Sometimes aiming for a #7 hit works perfectly, and other times the shot might need tweaked, a little thicker or thinner than a dead #7 aim. That's where experience and practice come into the mix.
Eddie Taylor who was one of the best bankers of all time and most claim the greatest had one rule about banking balls that were frozen to the rail and that is you NEVER hit them with draw to avoid a kiss. Naturally thats what we want to think is to draw the ball away but it actually makes it worse and it puts forward roll ever so slightly on object ball and makes it kiss faster because it also takes a little bit for the draw on cueball to grab and spin back as well.
Exactly! And if a ball is a few inches off the rail and the bank needs to be choked up quite a bit (shortened), using top inside works like magic.
Brian, I haven't seen this system before. I really like it for close to the rail shots. I've been using the 8/3 ratio for close, fast shots but right on the rail has been inconsistent for me using that system. Thanks for the explanation.
One thought - your explanation of stepping by half diamonds out to zero might need more explanation for shots not close to the rail. It could use its own video. Maybe combining 2/1, 8/3, and this system. By the way, does this system have a name?
I don't know of any name for the system. I've never seen it before. Maybe someone else came up with it years ago and named it, but I'm not sure.
@@Poolology101You should name it and frame it. I’d suggest the Rail 8 system since it uses 1/8th ball aiming points. (I’m not a serious student of banking systems, so not sure if that name has been used before.)
Could you please give me the address of the books about the pool. i'm watching from vietnam
www.playpoolbetter.com
Thanks for watching!
the mystery has been solved....thanks
What the system when shooting the length of the table? Say the ball is a spot shot and the cue ball is one diamond over from center. Does every half diamond on the long rail increase the same way as a short bank going the width of the table? If I screwed up asking the question so you don’t understand what I mean don’t answer it, I’ll understand. Thanks
Long banks a more challenging due to the smaller margin for error. I made a long bank video the other day but haven't had time to edit and upload it yet. I'll have it up in a couple of days.
Brian where exactly is the diamond at the corner pocket I’m not exactly sure. I just guess and I’m getting sick of guessing. Thank you stephen
Even with the nose of the end rail cushion.
Are you on a 8 foot table? Does this work on a 9 or 10 foot table?
Yes, this is an 8ft table, but it works on all tables. Cushion hardness is the only factor that makes the method vary from table to table.
Where did you learn this? This is the first time anyone has taken the time to explain this method. Now here is my next question. Your making all these shots without any spin, when would you use spin on these shots? Steve
I learned these banks through experimentation, except for the halfball at the 1st diamond. I got that out of a book titled "Banking With the Beard".
As far as using spin on these shots, with my cue it works like this: If I have a #6 aim (quarter ball shot), I can use a #5 aim with outside spin. But this is only if I need the outside spin, either for cb position or if the balls are dirty/dull (which causes more collision-induced throw than normal). Basically, depending on speed and distance between cb and ob, I adjust the aim about 1/8 to 1/4 thinner or thicker when applying english. But different cue shafts will get slightly different results, so it's best to figure it out on your own with your own cue.
Sometimes, especially playing the game of 1-pocket, inside spin is used on a bank to kill or hold the cb. I aim these types of shots thicker also.
Who makes a mezz cue?what is your tip size? Does it compare to the 314-3 or the z3
Mezz. The Mezz cue company is in Japan. 12.8mm shaft, low deflection, not sure how it compares to other ld shafts.
Brian! It’s Steve from seattle. If you put an object ball on the first diamond on the short rail and the cue ball on the first diamond on the long rail so you have a straight shot, my question is how much English are you putting on the cue ball.
I don't understand the setup. ?? Straight shot?
No big deal @@Poolology101
What is the difference between your bank video and Brandon the billiard guy bank video his bank video is on UA-cam also. I’m just curious. Thanks steve
I have no clue. Brandon has over 350 videos on UA-cam! I found a few where he is teaching basic bank shots using the diamonds, also found one where he teaches about using english on the banks. I couldn't find one where he banks balls that are frozen or near a cushion. I'm not sure which video you're asking about.
Does it matter if I’m not hitting the cue ball above center? I’m hitting the cue ball more in the center does that make a difference? Steve
It depends on the speed you're using. If it's a backcut bank, the cb should be rolling into the ob, not sliding. A sliding cb will push the ob off line and the bank will come up short of the pocket.
I had a very frustrating time trying to follow your instruction because the diamonds do not line up from one side of the table to the other; it's like an optical illusion; sorry, but it makes it impossible for me to follow the placement of the ball. Have you tried looking at your video to see what I'm talking about? The only diamonds that are lined up is the first diamond.
@@tennis1836 maybe I should've moved the camera angle for each example. I figured most people would understand that I was lining the shots up parallel to the end rail, 1 diamond out , 1.5 out, 2, 2.5, 3, etc...
@@Poolology101 yes, most people may understand that the cue ball is directly across from the object ball, however, it's not that way when you look at the 2 balls! I learn by watching, not by guessing!
@@tennis1836 lol...when it comes to learning, maybe you should also try listening, in addition to watching. Seriously, the explanation itself is pretty simple to understand. Anyway, thanks for watching.
@@Poolology101, I think this issue might resolve itself if the camera is placed overhead, looking down on the table. Thinking about it, maybe you don't have the overhead room to make that work, which is why you record from the side, which does have the effect of skewing [distorting] the view. Good stuff, nonetheless!
This system only works if both OB and CB are parallel to the end rail?
When both balls are parallel to the end rail, the aiming references are 4, 5, 6, 7... For every half diamond that the balls are not parallel, the aim reference changes by 1. The system works for balls that are froze or close to the rail.
When your banking and have a bank shot of a 6 doYou use a 5 with a pinch of outside or would you just use the 6 without any english? What would you do? Thanks steve
I typically use 5 and some outside english. But it really depends on where the cb needs to be next, so sometimes the shot has to be shot as a 6 with no english. And sometimes it might need to be shot using inside english, which would likely require an aiming reference of 5 if shooting firm or 7 if shooting it soft. Firm would cause the cb deflection to hit the ball thinner, while soft would cause the cb to slightly curve/massè more toward the ob.
How come on the 5, 6, and 7, I
need to put just a Pinch of outside english?
This is just a reference system. Different tables/cushions will vary slightly, but having a solid reference helps you dial in faster for making these bank shots.
Muy bueno pero como hago para escucharlo en español gracias😂😅
ua-cam.com/video/Zl9qw_wzD0M/v-deo.html
You're complicating 💩 out of it, is there any easier way ? 😂 🍻
Yes, the easy way is called experience, which involves missing a ton of banks until you finally start recognizing how to hit them.😂
@@Poolology101 Yeah, it'll take me a while. 🤣
I wish I saw this video years ago 🙏
Brian I know I ask you thing question last week ago, and you could not find the video, I was talking about. Let’s give it one more try. Type in Select Billiard banking video. The video will be on UA-cam. The title is An easy way to shoot bank shots in billiard and pool. It should be the very first video you see. If you find it, isn’t this the same system your doing? Thanks steve
Just watched the video. No, it is not the same method I'm showing here. What Brandon is doing is the basic banking method for regular bank shots with a rolling ob. He is showing the diamond track lines from one rail to the other (2 to 1, 3 to 1.5, 4 to 2, etc...).
The method I'm showing is for balls that are froze or close to the rail, which means the ob is sliding into the cushion, not rolling.
I use this as well i didn't know what to call it but I didn't tell anybody about it lol
CTE ,15,3045 makes all shots on the table,including all banks.this stuff is nonsense
😆
😂
The camera work is so bad! When you're shooting the #7 ball, your cue ball is placed straight across from the #6 ball! Not good. I was really hoping to learn more about bank shots, but it's very difficult when the video is wacky! Sorry, but this is like watching a movie with one eye closed....
@@tennis1836 i really don't understand what you're saying. But thanks for watching.
If that's your attitude, I'll be very happy not ever watching any of your videos!
@@tennis1836 like I said... I know I can't please every single viewer with every video I make. The best I can do is evaluate your advice/criticism and try to make future videos better. I think that's a great attitude for me to have. I am always telling people to offer advice that helps improve my videos, and I thank you for your advice. Unfortunately, there's nothing I can do to improve the videos I've already uploaded, other than to say sometimes you just have to listen and pay attention. I will definitely do better with future videos when using the diamonds. I like your advice of using different camera angles to show/clarify what I'm doing. Thanks.
Man too much talk.....if u know u know
Yep
If you're making a video, there must be a reason; perhaps it's because people can actually "see" how to do something....why don't you just watch your video and see what an optical illusion it is and change it? Yes, listening is, of course, important, but it doesn't hold a candle to watching someone perform a technique....I taught thousands of people to play tennis, many who became teaching and/or playing professionals, so I know how to teach.
@@tennis1836 fact is, we learn through paying attention. Sometimes that's strictly a visual process, but most of the time it involves watching AND listening, along with doing.
After reviewing the video again, and considering that you are the only viewer who has mentioned having trouble understanding what I'm showing, I believe it's good the way it is.
I realize I can't please or satisfy every single person out there every time, so I'm fine with pleasing the vast majority, or the 90% or more that actually don't have a problem with how I've presented this lesson.
I do appreciate the feedback, and I'll keep this in mind when I get a chance to make another video that uses diamonds to align the balls. You're definitely right that some shots are difficult to see/figure where the balls are placed. The best I can do is to try to make it better in the future. Thanks again.
That’s not how real pool is played,you’ll never see good players doing this
Actually, you do see it. Lol. This method helps players develop a good eye and feel for banks, and that is exactly what the best players in the world do. It's called experience.
Anyhow, I don't believe you're a real pool player. You are either Stan Shuffett himself (though I don't believe Stan would waste his time commenting of my channel), or you are his wife or some other CTE cheerleader trying to drum up attention for CTE by riding someone else's coattails.
That's fine, makes no difference to me or the thousands of aspiring players out there who follow my videos and read my books. Because the truth is, when it works you get good results, and the more you do it the more consistent those results become. In other words... players get better. And that's what matters most for "real" pool players.
Could you clarify cueball position in the start of this video. I understand the aiming points. I do not understand why you are moving the cue all to those specific locations in relation to the aiming points.
@@leonaylesworth3045 initially, the cb is lined straight across from the ob (both cb and ob are equal distance from the end rail). So, when both balls are one diamond away from the rail, that's an aim point of 4. At 1.5 diamonds it's an aim point of 5. At 2 diamonds it's an aim point of 6. Every 1/2 diamond from parallel changes the aim point by 1 (thinner or thicker), depending on the bank.
@ ok thank you. For some reason I was thinking the cueball was lagging behind the object line as you were progressing up the table. I understand now that both are on that line, equally distant from the end rail. It just didn't seem to appear that way at first in the video. Thanks again for the explanation.
@leonaylesworth3045 yeah, another youtuber pointed out that I should've used a different camera angle, or maybe 2 camera angles, to really make it look like what I was describing. I love that type of feedback, so when I get back into making more videos I will hopefully do a much better job. Thanks for watching!
I learned on a snooker table with center spots only on each rail so it was instinct only banking, I always felt pool tables bank a hair different than pool tables, diamonds with soimous on them on them bank short ? Table, rails, cloth ? As a kid all tables had nappy cloth, smooth cloth is very hard for me to shoot on, harder to control English and speed let alone the difference in banking
Shoot the last long rail half diamond shot with low left very hard, it’ll go