it would be really nice if GCN would do a video about building up a complete bike step by step... I mean they have videos for each part but it would be really cool to see it in one video. could be 2 hours long - i'd never mind, i'd love to watch this! thinking about building up my next bike myself
I'm a native French speaker. I went through 3 youtube tutorials in French without being able to understand how I should put the chain on the derailler. Before trying to look a tutorial in English, stumbled upon yours and finally got it! Thanks! You're a real life-saver!
One useful tip if you’re using a joining pin is to drive it into the chain from the inside. Although it’s not as easy to do, it shouldn’t be too difficult to position the chain and bike in a way that you can access it from the other side. The reason for this is, once you snap off the guide, it will leave a burr in the remaining rivet. If the burr is on the inside of the chain, it can scratch against a cassette gear when the chain is turning through the next lower gear. Driving the rivet from the inside will put the burr on the outside, and will prevent this from happening.
Couple of tips; Some chains have a specific outside and inside, so keep an eye out for that, and make sure you have them the right way around. If you don't have a quicklink or starter/guide pin, -when you shorten the chain, don't pop the pin all the way out; just push it far enough to let the inner link come away, but so that it stays in the outer link. This will make it about a million percent easier to re-link the chain. -and then when reinstalling the chain, set it up so that you can work the pin in from the outside of your bike, rather than the inside. For this last reason, combined with the one about side-specific chains, it might be worth your while when breaking the chain in the first place, to work the pin from the inside, out. This is very, very important especially if you're fixing your chain on the side of the road 20 miles from home.
Yep. Never push the pin all the way through. Never. Just don't. I just wasted an hour on countless attemps to get the pin right, and it just kept popping out. Thankfully i was on my balcony where it has no place to get lost in. But had i been in middle of nowhere on the side of the road, i would've no doubt lost it, and that would've been the end of my journey. So, moral of the story; never fuck around with chain pinns. They're really never your friends, and will always your worst nightmare if you let them. So please, keep your links in check. Saves time and nerves, that one.
I’m so grateful for these videos, I was about to use a chain tool on a chain that had a quick link in it before I saw this. I was able to replace my rear mech and adjust and index it using other other vids from this channel to guide me without any problems at all. Top work guys thanks.
I never thought that I would need to see this video again, but low and behold, I was teaching myself to break down my bike and after I replaced the chain, I didn't route it correctly around one of the jockey wheels and I had contact. After seeing this video, I have everything back together as it goes. Thanks Simon!
The most common reason for replacing a chain is because it has stretched. To allow for this I always double check by counting the number of links in the old and new chains and matching them rather than just relying on length. Really doesn't take very long (especially if you have the number of links in the old chain recorded somewhere)
Do chains stretch? I have been told that they don't. What happens is the links wear and the chain is not then tight on the sprockets. I am not sure about this but a worn chain will be the same length as a new one
@@SkillBuilder The proof that chains stretch is the existence of the chain checking tool (or how it's called in English). This tool's purpose is to look if a chain has been (over-) streched and needs to be replaced. My bike mechanic also told me to count the chain links when I change the chain.
No matter how may times I change chains, I always come back to this video. My only suggestion is to buy an inexpensive chain pliers....makes locking in quick links that much easier. I agree...Si is so tranquil it's like the Bob Ross of chain replacement.
I didnt even watch this video before I started to fix my bike, but seems like I was only having trouble with the master link, I saw you use a wrench so I decided to get a wrench.... fixed!! Now I can go ride my bike!! Thanks!
Thanks, this video helped me not throwing my bike through the garage out of frustration. Tip for the folks unable to attach the quicklinks to each other: apply pressure on the breaks and spin with one foot your pedals. Make sure that the quicklinks are perfectly in line with each other before you do this. Cheers.
Global Cycling Network here's my question, and it's probably a stupid one. When you're putting the chain back on, and your putting it on the smallest gears, should your bike already be on a certain speed? I'm not sure if it should be 1,or 12. Or does it matter at all?
also- as a mechanic i'll add this... I dont use the old chain to compare, in case it was originally installed at the incorrect length. (i have seen many manufacturers and mechanics put a chain on too long/short) When installing a new chain, i go into the small/small gear combo, run the chain around and cut the chain at the point where the chain doesnt rub on the underside of the rear derailleur cage. This way it wont bind when you are in the big/big or small/small combo. Also, I check that length and determine where to cut by putting both ends on the chainring- this way, I have found, I dont fudge the length I need by moving the chain up/down/around, and dont accidentally cut the link in the wrong place. Also, in regard to many chains, they are directional. A good thing to remember with shimano chains is that if the shimano logo faces the outside of the bike, thats where it should be.
Excellent video. Concise and to the point and explained in a fashion to be understandable to a neophyte such as myself. Watched some other videos and they all assumed a knowledge of bikes far beyond mine. Thank you.
Nice, really helpful, thanks. Not sure if you mentioned but - if you are using a quick link, you need to take one extra link out of the new chain (when sizing it next to the old one) as when you install the quick link it adds 1 link to the length of the chain : )
I have just picked up a bike from my local recycling centre that I am attempting to refurbish and this is exactly what I needed! Especially the part about not having your previous chain to measure against, the original was rusted solid and had to be removed using a cold rolled chisel and a hammer...
Thanks Si. The Big Ring and Big Sprocket plus 2 links for chain sizing without existing chain was perfect. I was a bit doubtful, thinking it would be too short 😊 but it was spot on 👌
Thanks Si. Here are some more tips that might be helpful to your viewers: 1 - Always wear gloves when working with the chain. Most of the bicycle chain lubricants are designed for weather-resistance. This means they stick really well and are difficult to clean off your hands. Using gloves keeps your hands clean but you have to keep the gloves pulled snug on your fingers so they aren't pinched and ripped by the chain. 2 - In my experience, you do not need to shift to the small chainring---you can shift the chain to the large chainring before removing it. This positions the chain where it is much easier to reach and the small amount of additional spring tension from the rear derailleur is minor compared to the easier access. Also, if you're like me and seldom use your small chainring and hate cleaning it (because it's difficult to reach), keeping the chain on the big chainring keeps oil away from the small one. 3 - Be very careful to avoid dropping or sliding the chain on the chain stay of your frame. It is very easy to scratch and chip the paint on your frame this way. This is my only criticism in an otherwise great video---when Si installed the new chain, he allowed the chain to slide along the chain stay as he threaded the chain on the rear cassette and derailleur---this is never a good idea. 4 - If you're removing a badly worn chain, it is probably a good idea to replace the rear cassette also (Si mentioned this in an earlier GCN video). The teeth on the sprockets will probably be worn from the old chain stretching and may not fit a new chain properly. Many experts say we should treat the cassette as a "consumable" the same as the chain. 5 - Always clean your cassette, rear derailleur guide wheels and chainrings before installing a new chain. 6 - It's usually best to lubricate the new chain after installation. Some new chains come pre-lubed and may not require this (as long as the factory lube is acceptable for your riding environment). If your new chain comes from the factory with a sticky anti-rust coating, you may need to clean off this coating before installing and lubing the new chain. There are a variety of ways to lube the chain. Which method you choose is a matter of personal preference, your riding environment and how often you clean your bike. The environmental conditions can be very important. One lube may work well in wet conditions and another may be much better for dry and sandy conditions. If you clean your bike frequently like Si does (after every ride), even a water displacement product with an integral short-lasting lube (like WD-40) may work well as long as it is applied frequently. My personal favorite is Park Tool CL-1 (a dedicated synthetic chain lube with reasonably-good weather resistance). 7 - What kind of chain to use? You could stay with the factory-recommended chain for your drivetrain. But there may be a good reason to switch to a different type. For example: If you ride in wet conditions, a nickel-plated chain will rust less. If you're trying to keep your weight down, a chain with hollow pins and links can save you 60 g or more. For example, a SRAM PC-850 with solid pins and links weighs 318 g while a SRAM PC-1091R with hollow pins and links weighs just 255 g (and the PC-1091R includes nickel plating). 8 - Si mentioned "quick links", the chain links that are designed to be installed and removed without a conventional chain pin tool. Depending on the make, these links have a variety of names such as "master links", KMC "missing links" and SRAM "powerlinks". Some are designed to be reusable and some are not. But I've found that most of them can be reused many times (regardless what the manufacturer says) and it helps to have a pair of master link pliers as Si showed (Park Tool MLP-1.2). I have single-use SRAM powerlinks that I've reused dozens of times with zero problems. I strongly recommend using master links because they allow your chain to be quickly removed, making its cleaning so much better. I ride about 150 miles per week along the eastern side of Lake Michigan in the U.S. and there is lots and lots of sand. Even though I ride my road bike on clean paved highways with wide shoulders, I get lots of sand in my drivetrain and this requires frequent cleaning to keep the drivetrain in top condition. An easy-to-remove master link makes this a quick task. Chain cleaning tools that clean your chain while it's on the bike, in my opinion, never do an adequate job.
D.Eldon Yes. And to remove "quick links" without specialized pliers you can fold the link and the adjacent one into a v on the big front ring and hit one side of the link (softly) with a hammer.
Excellent video GCN. Before this video I had no idea how to change a chain and I just got back from replacing my chain which took less then 10 minutes.
When it happened to me it went more along the lines of “what the fuck?” (Pulls over and looks at bike, realises chain is 20 or so meters behind me on the ground) “oh for fucks sake are you fucking serious?” So yes fairly accurate indeed.
Simon, before watching this video, I was doing it all wrong. However now, after watching you in action Mate, I've learned how to correctly pull my chain just right, thanks :)
How about a a video to fix a snapped chain by the roadside. Usually have a quick-link and a multi tool with a chain tool on it in my bag, but I've never had to use it on a ride.
Shouldn't you be inserting the pin from the inside of the chain and clipping it on the outside so that the extra bit that protrudes doesn't touch the adjacent gear on the rear wheel?
That's correct he did it wrong you always insert the pin from facing away from the bike, the way he did it in this video is a good chance the chain would come apart down the road
"...but if you've got the bike in a work centre..." Actually I tend to lean the bike against a table or the side of the house to repair it. Also I don't have such a shiny bike or a spacious workshop with a full set of Park tools. I think someone should start a bike repair channel where the presenter is a middle-aged Dad trying to repair his kids' barely road-worthy bikes in the kitchen with totally inadequate tools while cursing...
The problem with those channels is they are low quality, and end up just using a big hammer and crowbar to remove all the parts! I'd happily start a channel of me trying to repair my kids bikes, but I'd quickly but a few special tools to make my life easier (and protect the bike). Sure, I can remove a crankset without a puller, but it may turn into waste metal that way. Thumbs up if you think I should start a "Dad repairing kids bikes with minimal tools" channel
One of the most useful lessons you can teach your kids is, use the right tool for the job. It will save them time, struggle, disappointment, possible injuries, and show them the importance of taking care of the work and themselves. And if you can't justify the cost of a tool that you may only use once or twice, let your LBS do it.
@@timwhite8 I think I would love to see some videos of that, I live in a very rural area, and I know we don't have all the fancy shmancy tools professionals use. So yeah, thumbs up from me!
Si is definitely the "Bob Ross" of bike mech - makes it look so simple, calm and easy! Had he whacked the chain it would have been perfect! "Oh, let's give this missing link a happy little friend...remember: there are no mistakes, just happy accidents". Joke aside: excellent video! Thanks a bunch!
A double single malt whisky helped me do this, change a freewheel and true the rear wheel (as much as is needed before I put my bikes in for service) in 15 minutes
I straight up snapped my chain on my up bike and it's 3 days b4 my b day and I only had my bike for a month after I got my wheels trued w a shop it a piss take
Thanks for correcting the video Si, much better with the chain being shown threaded above the pin in the cage. Saves a lot of hassle, speaking from experience.
I am a very serious cyclist and have been for 20 years.The mileage of a chain all depends on how well you look after it and how often you lube it.But I am one of these few that do serious maintenance on their bicycle,nearly all the time,it is a fact that a bicycle chain can last for 10,000 miles or beyond,without damaging the chainwheels or cassette,of course it will go eventually,but there are stages of wear that you must watch out for before it slips out of the chainwheel teeth,the first stage is when it starts to go further away from the left side pin,it can go up to 4mm,away until it needs replacing,(this is using the ruler measurement).The second stage is when daylight starts to show between the grooves,of the teeth.The third stage is when the bottom of the chain moves accessively up and down,and also slaps against the chainstays, while pedalling, do not let it reach this stage.This is the stage when it then starts to slip out of the chain,then the payload is seriously compromised.Every 250 miles I completely clean the chain,and clean between the rollers,then I relube the chain, on the chainwheels I clean them ,then put fresh grease on all the teeth,and along the sides of the chainwheels to prevent friction,as much as possible.I put lube on the chain after every ride,which is 30 miles a day.Since 1999,when I started I have logged every mileage and time.I hope this will help you serious cyclists out there!
just watched you short film and hats off to you " all was got me a little confused the threading of the chain at the back jockey's . thanks mate your a star in my book, Elliot*
5:15 I can not recommend to use pliers, either you won't get to break the pin, you may break it at the wrong point or you damage the pliers. If you use the back of the chain tool (which you used to drive the pin in) there should be a hole designed to fit the pin. if you then move the pin in it and move the chain and chain tool into opposite directions it will actually break easily.
I have only ever used Sedis chains and never had a problem yet (after 40 yrs) with a broken chain (TW). At 1'27" in the video, if using a Sedis chain make sure not to push the pin out of the second collar, but leave a bit of the pin protruding on the inside, to enable easy reconnection.
Thank you Simon for a very straightforward & concise presentation. I did find one part (threading the chain back on to the bike. At 4:00 on the video) hard to see, but I figure I'll be able to manage. Thank you!
I had to open a quick link without a tool and couldn't get it with just my hands. My improvised solution - take a piece of small-ish solid wire and route it through the two links on either side of the quick link, then use pliers to twist the two ends together until the quick link opens.
i didn't watch this video beforehand for removing my (very rusty) chain. looking at it now there was a chain link. ive learned at some point that repeatedly bending metal back and forth usually does the trick for breaking metal stuff, so i just did that 😅
It would be great if GCN did a video on how to fix a dropped chain whilst riding. Without stopping, by making sure the chain is not stuck and backpedaling etc to free it then shift to opposite chain ring and soft pedal to get the chain back on. Instructions for if it drops off the inside or outside and setting chain guard and limit screws right to make this less likely. And also if chain is stuck how to stop and free it with a stick etc and shift to opposite chain ring and ease it back on by hand turning the cranks.
Probably worth mentioning that if you're not using a shimano break pin or a quick link, and you want to make a "solid chain", then don't push the pin all the way out. Only far enough for it to sperate. That way you can connect it up easily, plus it's nigh on impossible to reconnect if you've pushed it all the way out.
***** Yeah they do, but sometimes people don't want to use them, they'd rather not use a "quick link". It makes sense to have them, but it's just an extra comment. Also useful if you've only got a solid chain and you need to just take it apart temporarily for replacing a derailleur or something :)
The thing they don't tell you, is if you buy a new chain, IT DOESN'T COME WITH A CLOSING LINK! Arrrgh. You have to go and buy the closing link separately!! And by the way, the quickest way to remove a REALLY rusted chain is with two vise grip and/or channel lock pliers: pinch the two pliers fairly close together on the chain and twist opposite directions. Walla! Works fast, easy.
What a great video. Only thing is, my old ears heard your advice on how to remove a link as "chain saw" rather than "chain tool." Took me back for a moment.
I did it! I replaced my own chain! You just saved me $130 now I’m not dependent on my local overpriced bike shop
it would be really nice if GCN would do a video about building up a complete bike step by step... I mean they have videos for each part but it would be really cool to see it in one video. could be 2 hours long - i'd never mind, i'd love to watch this! thinking about building up my next bike myself
I'm a native French speaker. I went through 3 youtube tutorials in French without being able to understand how I should put the chain on the derailler. Before trying to look a tutorial in English, stumbled upon yours and finally got it!
Thanks! You're a real life-saver!
lovely. have a great ride !
One useful tip if you’re using a joining pin is to drive it into the chain from the inside. Although it’s not as easy to do, it shouldn’t be too difficult to position the chain and bike in a way that you can access it from the other side. The reason for this is, once you snap off the guide, it will leave a burr in the remaining rivet. If the burr is on the inside of the chain, it can scratch against a cassette gear when the chain is turning through the next lower gear. Driving the rivet from the inside will put the burr on the outside, and will prevent this from happening.
.v..v.
Literally read that as i snapped it off......on the inside
Couple of tips;
Some chains have a specific outside and inside, so keep an eye out for that, and make sure you have them the right way around.
If you don't have a quicklink or starter/guide pin,
-when you shorten the chain, don't pop the pin all the way out; just push it far enough to let the inner link come away, but so that it stays in the outer link. This will make it about a million percent easier to re-link the chain.
-and then when reinstalling the chain, set it up so that you can work the pin in from the outside of your bike, rather than the inside. For this last reason, combined with the one about side-specific chains, it might be worth your while when breaking the chain in the first place, to work the pin from the inside, out.
This is very, very important especially if you're fixing your chain on the side of the road 20 miles from home.
Great comment - this sounds like 'experience is expensive' knowledge - much appreciated.
Read this just too late, popped out the pin completely, hell to get it back in
Some excellent advice many thanks.
@@samhendriks2732 Same. I just did this and keep cussing. 🤣
Yep. Never push the pin all the way through. Never. Just don't.
I just wasted an hour on countless attemps to get the pin right, and it just kept popping out.
Thankfully i was on my balcony where it has no place to get lost in. But had i been in middle of nowhere on the side of the road, i would've no doubt lost it, and that would've been the end of my journey.
So, moral of the story; never fuck around with chain pinns. They're really never your friends, and will always your worst nightmare if you let them.
So please, keep your links in check. Saves time and nerves, that one.
I’m so grateful for these videos, I was about to use a chain tool on a chain that had a quick link in it before I saw this.
I was able to replace my rear mech and adjust and index it using other other vids from this channel to guide me without any problems at all.
Top work guys thanks.
Another top video guys. I built a bike with zero experience using only your how to videos.. It's still going strong.
Mate you're experienced as fuck now
Neil McRobie wow
Neil McRobie i built a bike when i was 12 no joke
+Khan Khan so what ?.
I was 9'10 but this guy just showed me something new " and why you watching this on UA-cam for ???.
knob head !!!!
@@KhanKhan-dr5ic Big deal. I assembled a bike while in the womb and rode out of my mum's fanny. Even managed a rolling stoppie.
This was the first time changing my bike chain so this tutorial was incredibly useful!
I never thought that I would need to see this video again, but low and behold, I was teaching myself to break down my bike and after I replaced the chain, I didn't route it correctly around one of the jockey wheels and I had contact. After seeing this video, I have everything back together as it goes. Thanks Simon!
The most common reason for replacing a chain is because it has stretched. To allow for this I always double check by counting the number of links in the old and new chains and matching them rather than just relying on length. Really doesn't take very long (especially if you have the number of links in the old chain recorded somewhere)
Do chains stretch? I have been told that they don't. What happens is the links wear and the chain is not then tight on the sprockets. I am not sure about this but a worn chain will be the same length as a new one
@@SkillBuilder The proof that chains stretch is the existence of the chain checking tool (or how it's called in English). This tool's purpose is to look if a chain has been (over-) streched and needs to be replaced.
My bike mechanic also told me to count the chain links when I change the chain.
No matter how may times I change chains, I always come back to this video. My only suggestion is to buy an inexpensive chain pliers....makes locking in quick links that much easier. I agree...Si is so tranquil it's like the Bob Ross of chain replacement.
So refreshing to see a mechanical video done by someone professional - thanks!
Sometimes a naturally gifted educator comes along and this guy is it. One of the best.
I didnt even watch this video before I started to fix my bike, but seems like I was only having trouble with the master link, I saw you use a wrench so I decided to get a wrench.... fixed!! Now I can go ride my bike!! Thanks!
Thanks, this video helped me not throwing my bike through the garage out of frustration.
Tip for the folks unable to attach the quicklinks to each other: apply pressure on the breaks and spin with one foot your pedals. Make sure that the quicklinks are perfectly in line with each other before you do this. Cheers.
This video, plus your other chain fixing vids has educated me and saved my riding life! Many thank yous!
Our pleasure.
Global Cycling Network here's my question, and it's probably a stupid one. When you're putting the chain back on, and your putting it on the smallest gears, should your bike already be on a certain speed? I'm not sure if it should be 1,or 12. Or does it matter at all?
it would be easiest to fit the chain in the smallest chainring and smallest (lowest teeth number) rear sprocket.
also- as a mechanic i'll add this... I dont use the old chain to compare, in case it was originally installed at the incorrect length. (i have seen many manufacturers and mechanics put a chain on too long/short) When installing a new chain, i go into the small/small gear combo, run the chain around and cut the chain at the point where the chain doesnt rub on the underside of the rear derailleur cage. This way it wont bind when you are in the big/big or small/small combo. Also, I check that length and determine where to cut by putting both ends on the chainring- this way, I have found, I dont fudge the length I need by moving the chain up/down/around, and dont accidentally cut the link in the wrong place. Also, in regard to many chains, they are directional. A good thing to remember with shimano chains is that if the shimano logo faces the outside of the bike, thats where it should be.
Cheers! 5 years later this just helped me change my first chain after snapping one for the first time also.
Great to hear!
mywife bought a secondhand bike yesterday that needed work. your videos made it a lot easier for a non cyclist to fix a bike
Excellent video. Concise and to the point and explained in a fashion to be understandable to a neophyte such as myself. Watched some other videos and they all assumed a knowledge of bikes far beyond mine. Thank you.
Nice, really helpful, thanks. Not sure if you mentioned but - if you are using a quick link, you need to take one extra link out of the new chain (when sizing it next to the old one) as when you install the quick link it adds 1 link to the length of the chain : )
I have just picked up a bike from my local recycling centre that I am attempting to refurbish and this is exactly what I needed! Especially the part about not having your previous chain to measure against, the original was rusted solid and had to be removed using a cold rolled chisel and a hammer...
Great video. Didn’t realise width of chain is narrower the more gears you have. Every days a school day. Thanks
Thanks Si. The Big Ring and Big Sprocket plus 2 links for chain sizing without existing chain was perfect. I was a bit doubtful, thinking it would be too short 😊 but it was spot on 👌
Thanks Si. Here are some more tips that might be helpful to your viewers:
1 - Always wear gloves when working with the chain. Most of the bicycle chain lubricants are designed for weather-resistance. This means they stick really well and are difficult to clean off your hands. Using gloves keeps your hands clean but you have to keep the gloves pulled snug on your fingers so they aren't pinched and ripped by the chain.
2 - In my experience, you do not need to shift to the small chainring---you can shift the chain to the large chainring before removing it. This positions the chain where it is much easier to reach and the small amount of additional spring tension from the rear derailleur is minor compared to the easier access. Also, if you're like me and seldom use your small chainring and hate cleaning it (because it's difficult to reach), keeping the chain on the big chainring keeps oil away from the small one.
3 - Be very careful to avoid dropping or sliding the chain on the chain stay of your frame. It is very easy to scratch and chip the paint on your frame this way. This is my only criticism in an otherwise great video---when Si installed the new chain, he allowed the chain to slide along the chain stay as he threaded the chain on the rear cassette and derailleur---this is never a good idea.
4 - If you're removing a badly worn chain, it is probably a good idea to replace the rear cassette also (Si mentioned this in an earlier GCN video). The teeth on the sprockets will probably be worn from the old chain stretching and may not fit a new chain properly. Many experts say we should treat the cassette as a "consumable" the same as the chain.
5 - Always clean your cassette, rear derailleur guide wheels and chainrings before installing a new chain.
6 - It's usually best to lubricate the new chain after installation. Some new chains come pre-lubed and may not require this (as long as the factory lube is acceptable for your riding environment). If your new chain comes from the factory with a sticky anti-rust coating, you may need to clean off this coating before installing and lubing the new chain. There are a variety of ways to lube the chain. Which method you choose is a matter of personal preference, your riding environment and how often you clean your bike. The environmental conditions can be very important. One lube may work well in wet conditions and another may be much better for dry and sandy conditions. If you clean your bike frequently like Si does (after every ride), even a water displacement product with an integral short-lasting lube (like WD-40) may work well as long as it is applied frequently. My personal favorite is Park Tool CL-1 (a dedicated synthetic chain lube with reasonably-good weather resistance).
7 - What kind of chain to use? You could stay with the factory-recommended chain for your drivetrain. But there may be a good reason to switch to a different type. For example: If you ride in wet conditions, a nickel-plated chain will rust less. If you're trying to keep your weight down, a chain with hollow pins and links can save you 60 g or more. For example, a SRAM PC-850 with solid pins and links weighs 318 g while a SRAM PC-1091R with hollow pins and links weighs just 255 g (and the PC-1091R includes nickel plating).
8 - Si mentioned "quick links", the chain links that are designed to be installed and removed without a conventional chain pin tool. Depending on the make, these links have a variety of names such as "master links", KMC "missing links" and SRAM "powerlinks". Some are designed to be reusable and some are not. But I've found that most of them can be reused many times (regardless what the manufacturer says) and it helps to have a pair of master link pliers as Si showed (Park Tool MLP-1.2). I have single-use SRAM powerlinks that I've reused dozens of times with zero problems. I strongly recommend using master links because they allow your chain to be quickly removed, making its cleaning so much better. I ride about 150 miles per week along the eastern side of Lake Michigan in the U.S. and there is lots and lots of sand. Even though I ride my road bike on clean paved highways with wide shoulders, I get lots of sand in my drivetrain and this requires frequent cleaning to keep the drivetrain in top condition. An easy-to-remove master link makes this a quick task. Chain cleaning tools that clean your chain while it's on the bike, in my opinion, never do an adequate job.
D.Eldon Yes. And to remove "quick links" without specialized pliers you can fold the link and the adjacent one into a v on the big front ring and hit one side of the link (softly) with a hammer.
One last thing. Some chains need to have a particular side facing outward. Do be aware of that.
Very good job with the suggestions👍
Excellent video GCN. Before this video I had no idea how to change a chain and I just got back from replacing my chain which took less then 10 minutes.
0:06 Perfect demo
misterfunnybones that happens to me yesterday in the middle of the street
otonas balikas happened to me today
Oi
Happened to me earlier today - word perfect
When it happened to me it went more along the lines of “what the fuck?” (Pulls over and looks at bike, realises chain is 20 or so meters behind me on the ground) “oh for fucks sake are you fucking serious?”
So yes fairly accurate indeed.
Great How To...I have watched Dan snapping his chain about 30 times and had a hysterical laugh session after a long day at work. Chapeau Boss, chapeau
The first "replace chain" video that has made any sense to me....thanks.
Awesome straight forward professional instructions. Rebuilding my bike and loving these videos!
Oooh an anodised cable end cap. Your time in Italy at the giro has made you sophisticated!
Simon, before watching this video, I was doing it all wrong. However now, after watching you in action Mate, I've learned how to correctly pull my chain just right, thanks :)
How about a a video to fix a snapped chain by the roadside. Usually have a quick-link and a multi tool with a chain tool on it in my bag, but I've never had to use it on a ride.
Someone said if the pin is all the way out of the chain to throw the chain away. This video restores faith that I can use that tool! Thx.
Watch this once through. Then use it step by step and it is as easy as falling off a bike. Thanks again GCN
Thanks very much for this video. Changed my cassette to a 12-25 and popped in a new chain with your videos. Keep it up
Third way to remove chain: pick it up off the pavement.
Same 😂😂
that sucks! happened to me last nigt... f^%$!!!!!
Just happened to me today
Happened to me yesterday haha
Yesterday was my first experience of this and today will be my first experience of installing a new one.
Shouldn't you be inserting the pin from the inside of the chain and clipping it on the outside so that the extra bit that protrudes doesn't touch the adjacent gear on the rear wheel?
That's correct he did it wrong you always insert the pin from facing away from the bike, the way he did it in this video is a good chance the chain would come apart down the road
no
Great job Simon. Clear directions and well presented. Thank you!
thanks to your video i have managed to save time and money fixing my chain myself thanks to you guys and keep up the good work!!
"...but if you've got the bike in a work centre..."
Actually I tend to lean the bike against a table or the side of the house to repair it. Also I don't have such a shiny bike or a spacious workshop with a full set of Park tools. I think someone should start a bike repair channel where the presenter is a middle-aged Dad trying to repair his kids' barely road-worthy bikes in the kitchen with totally inadequate tools while cursing...
The problem with those channels is they are low quality, and end up just using a big hammer and crowbar to remove all the parts! I'd happily start a channel of me trying to repair my kids bikes, but I'd quickly but a few special tools to make my life easier (and protect the bike). Sure, I can remove a crankset without a puller, but it may turn into waste metal that way. Thumbs up if you think I should start a "Dad repairing kids bikes with minimal tools" channel
One of the most useful lessons you can teach your kids is, use the right tool for the job. It will save them time, struggle, disappointment, possible injuries, and show them the importance of taking care of the work and themselves. And if you can't justify the cost of a tool that you may only use once or twice, let your LBS do it.
@@timwhite8 I think I would love to see some videos of that, I live in a very rural area, and I know we don't have all the fancy shmancy tools professionals use. So yeah, thumbs up from me!
I’d watch that!!!
Well come and film me
Thanks! My dad put a lock on my chain and forgot to take it off before he left. I had soccer practice and didn't have a ride! lifesaver
Thanks GCN for putting this one up. Followed Simon's instructions and am a very happy rider once again.
Very helpful. You made it simple. I replace my chain the hard way. Turns out I had a quick link the entire time....Doh!!
Si is definitely the "Bob Ross" of bike mech - makes it look so simple, calm and easy! Had he whacked the chain it would have been perfect! "Oh, let's give this missing link a happy little friend...remember: there are no mistakes, just happy accidents". Joke aside: excellent video! Thanks a bunch!
Thank you soo much GCN. All your videos are helpful - i’m learning to do all the work on my road bike. Legends.
Simon should run Chain Replacement As Stress Therapy Classes. This is so... tranquil.
Totally agree and he is good!
There is nothing tranquil about the actual process however... but I will look through this video at least twice before I menace the next new chain. :(
A double single malt whisky helped me do this, change a freewheel and true the rear wheel (as much as is needed before I put my bikes in for service) in 15 minutes
انت صح 🙀👩🙈👩
I straight up snapped my chain on my up bike and it's 3 days b4 my b day and I only had my bike for a month after I got my wheels trued w a shop it a piss take
Just did this to clean my chain. Looks brand new. Great video
Thanks for correcting the video Si, much better with the chain being shown threaded above the pin in the cage. Saves a lot of hassle, speaking from experience.
I wish I had watched this before I changed my chain, yesterday. I knew the basics, but this would have made it easier.
Thank you so much for this! Changed my bike chain all by myself with the help of your tutorial 😊
LOB X
Thank you. Took me roughly 2 hours, but I changed my bike chain. Also learnt how to change a bike chain
I am a very serious cyclist and have been for 20 years.The mileage of a chain all depends on how well you look after it and how often you lube it.But I am one of these few that do serious maintenance on their bicycle,nearly all the time,it is a fact that a bicycle chain can last for 10,000 miles or beyond,without damaging the chainwheels or cassette,of course it will go eventually,but there are stages of wear that you must watch out for before it slips out of the chainwheel teeth,the first stage is when it starts to go further away from the left side pin,it can go up to 4mm,away until it needs replacing,(this is using the ruler measurement).The second stage is when daylight starts to show between the grooves,of the teeth.The third stage is when the bottom of the chain moves accessively up and down,and also slaps against the chainstays, while pedalling, do not let it reach this stage.This is the stage when it then starts to slip out of the chain,then the payload is seriously compromised.Every 250 miles I completely clean the chain,and clean between the rollers,then I relube the chain, on the chainwheels I clean them ,then put fresh grease on all the teeth,and along the sides of the chainwheels to prevent friction,as much as possible.I put lube on the chain after every ride,which is 30 miles a day.Since 1999,when I started I have logged every mileage and time.I hope this will help you serious cyclists out there!
my bike chain is a horror story to you :(
Thanks for the tips. I just replaced my chain.
these videos are a great resource to come back to.
just watched you short film and hats off to you " all was got me a little confused the threading of the chain at the back jockey's .
thanks mate your a star in my book,
Elliot*
Thanks, I needed this. My chain crapped out during lock down.
5:15 I can not recommend to use pliers, either you won't get to break the pin, you may break it at the wrong point or you damage the pliers. If you use the back of the chain tool (which you used to drive the pin in) there should be a hole designed to fit the pin. if you then move the pin in it and move the chain and chain tool into opposite directions it will actually break easily.
my one snapped just before the main section made it into the chain 😢
I have only ever used Sedis chains and never had a problem yet (after 40 yrs) with a broken chain (TW). At 1'27" in the video, if using a Sedis chain make sure not to push the pin out of the second collar, but leave a bit of the pin protruding on the inside, to enable easy reconnection.
Such great videos especially for us newbies into road biking . Thanks a million
Great video, clear, succinct and no nonsense straight to the point!
@GCN your tutorials are really good. Thansk for saving me a lot of blood, sweat and tears!
Thank you Simon for a very straightforward & concise presentation. I did find one part (threading the chain back on to the bike. At 4:00 on the video) hard to see, but I figure I'll be able to manage. Thank you!
This comment, contains 1 million thank you's, for all the helpful tips you guys have given!!!!
Thank you!
This is by far the best bike related tutorial I've seen so far on youtube, great job!
I had to open a quick link without a tool and couldn't get it with just my hands. My improvised solution - take a piece of small-ish solid wire and route it through the two links on either side of the quick link, then use pliers to twist the two ends together until the quick link opens.
Spot on advice, managed to change my chain using the video, works perfectly. Thanks guys
Very simple. He was quick and thorough. Painless! Thanks
Much appreciated for video! Found GCN a great help and is good to learn new things!
Thanks so much for your thorough video, I have the confidence now to tackle this basic maintenance task myself!
This is like the most soothing thing you can do with your bike
Really useful, replacing mine tomorrow as it snapped off as i started out this morning!
Just want to say thank you, replacing my sisters chain today :)
So glade that I saw this video. It was helpful when I had to change out my chain on my bike.
excellent explanation thanks
Brilliant, couldn't have explained it better. Video close ups excellent also.
LOVE the clip @ 0.06 - also a GREAT how-to-do demo video.
i didn't watch this video beforehand for removing my (very rusty) chain. looking at it now there was a chain link. ive learned at some point that repeatedly bending metal back and forth usually does the trick for breaking metal stuff, so i just did that 😅
It would be great if GCN did a video on how to fix a dropped chain whilst riding. Without stopping, by making sure the chain is not stuck and backpedaling etc to free it then shift to opposite chain ring and soft pedal to get the chain back on. Instructions for if it drops off the inside or outside and setting chain guard and limit screws right to make this less likely. And also if chain is stuck how to stop and free it with a stick etc and shift to opposite chain ring and ease it back on by hand turning the cranks.
Probably worth mentioning that if you're not using a shimano break pin or a quick link, and you want to make a "solid chain", then don't push the pin all the way out. Only far enough for it to sperate. That way you can connect it up easily, plus it's nigh on impossible to reconnect if you've pushed it all the way out.
***** Yeah they do, but sometimes people don't want to use them, they'd rather not use a "quick link". It makes sense to have them, but it's just an extra comment. Also useful if you've only got a solid chain and you need to just take it apart temporarily for replacing a derailleur or something :)
Very good guide. Simple and thorough.
Absolutely brilliant advice. Fixed straight away. Thank you GCN
Just replaced my chain with your help. Thanks GCN!
I liked the method of sizing a new chain by going to the large cog in the front in the back and adding two links
Best explanation on chain replacement, ever.
I followed this guy's advice and ended up breaking the new chain I had just purchased.
The thing they don't tell you, is if you buy a new chain, IT DOESN'T COME WITH A CLOSING LINK! Arrrgh. You have to go and buy the closing link separately!! And by the way, the quickest way to remove a REALLY rusted chain is with two vise grip and/or channel lock pliers: pinch the two pliers fairly close together on the chain and twist opposite directions. Walla! Works fast, easy.
This is excellent instruction, he doesn't assume I know anything. In my case, he's right. Thank you.
excellent video - not many like that (not only on bike maintenance) but any tutorials!
Thanks, tried it for the first time worked a treat!
Thank you for this video!!! ❤❤❤ I was able to fix my sons 🚲 bike .
Great presentation! I was dreading fixing my bike, but this has helped me a great deal!
Great video length!
Thanks for that video guys, will be a lot easier to superclean my chain next time!!
Thank you so much again, your videos have helped so much this year! 10/10
You are so welcome!
Great tutorial. Thanks guys. Just fitted my new chain on my new 11-spd using this.
Nice to know you don't have to match up brands of cassette and chains, as long as you know what speed of cassette you have the right chain will work.
Well presented, consisce and all the information I really need right now!
Thanks man, great explanation and demo. Got it right first time.
What a great video. Only thing is, my old ears heard your advice on how to remove a link as "chain saw" rather than "chain tool." Took me back for a moment.
Thank you! this video highlighted a very basic mistake I'd made :)
thanks, excelent shot and very properly explanation how set up new chain.