Best video I've ever seen explaining chainwear, and I've been fixing my own bikes, replacing chains, cassettes, and cranksets for over 30 years. Thank you so much for video 😊😊
That is by far the best video I have ever seen explaining chain-wear. Your graphics are outstanding on this! I know how much time it takes to put a video like this together, with this kind of quality! I just happened to change both my chains on my indoor training bike, and my race bike last week after checking the chain-wear. Amazing what a new chain does for shifting and the noise level on the drivetrain. You video is very much appreciated by a fellow cyclist in Texas!
GCN pisses me off sometimes when they are doing tutorials on perfect bikes, they often neglect to show what a worn out component looks like. Thanks for this video, really thorough.
I let my last road chain go to far and had to replace the cassette too. Got it done, working, but still had aweful drivetrain noise, and thought my front chainrings needed replacing too. Had a ride in the rain, washed bike, re-oiled chain, and suddenly it was silent! All the noise was apparently due to the storage grease on the chain. Never experienced it like that before, but there you go - I'll be re-oiling my new chains from now on.
You just inspired me to keep a better eye on my chain. I do have a chain checker tool, but I never use it. Such a waste of cassette and chainring :( I just saw a bunch of chain-wear vids but yours is so clear, with the visuals. My chain is even sitting on top of a brand new chainring, so now I know why. Thanks a lot!
Excellent video!! Simple explanation!! I have leanrt so many things today! I was wondering why I didn't have smooth gear changing on my bike! I have found the solution. From now on I will put a new chain every 2000 Khm. Thanks!!
Another great video Steve. Very comprehensive. I always feel like I learned some important stuff from your videos and you don't skimp on the details. Keep up the good work.
Great video! I have found that for me my chains wear about three times as fast as my cassettes. A new chain will wear down very quickly on a worn cassette and vice versa. Usually, the wear of only a few of the most used cogs on the cassette "spoil" the cassette. A trick I have used in the past to extend the life of chains and cassettes is to start with three chains and rotate them on about a 1000km basis. The chain and cassette wear matches up better and reduces the accelerated wear caused by mixing new and worn components. It has doubled to tripled the life of those two components on my commuter bikes. I usually put in about 5000-9000km annually so it can save a bit of cash to purchase other bike bling!
Greetings from California! Excellent video " mate" thanks for the knowledge! Keep up this great service which you are doing- educating the next generation of cyclists.
Excellent video, I’ve actually just replaced a SRAM Red chain after 1400 miles, it showed .25% at 1000miles then rapidly went to .5%. Interestingly it didn’t measure the same wear right around the chain, some places were slightly better than others. So worth checking in 2-3 places.
Great video, my friend! Last good explanation about this issue I've seen was on Sheldon Brown's forum, but you made an even more detailed one. Greetings from Brazil, you are for sure helping a lot of cyclists here!
Hmm.. I think this vid was a little bit more than helpful... It explained in full detail just what happens to our drive systems .. I'd say it was more like... Amazing!..Thanks for taking the time and doing this for all who ride...
You've just got a sub! This is the most detailed explanation of chain wear ever. Nobody ever mentioned 0.5% wear, everyone sticks to 0.75%. Thank you, I'm going to check out your other videos.
Outstanding Oz! My bike is hurting for sure. Front rings are sharp and a few chipped off. Rear cassette looks good I think. It was a free used bike and I don't know the history. It has got me peddling again though, which I am very grateful for. Cheers from California.
Nice to hear your on a bike then Ronald 😁. Sounds like rings or crankset needs replacing and following what you say,probarbly the chain and cogset also...maybe thats why it was a freebee? Greetings from Australia too 😎
oz cycle I am very happy to be riding again. I forgot how enjoyable it was. It's a Gary Fisher (China). Somebody did some upgrades on the bike I do believe. The front rings seem to riveted on (Suntour). Plus the bottom bracket has play in it. Probably new crank set and chain. If I have the correct language/description. Maybe that is why they gave it to me? Hahaha! Probably! Hopefully not too expensive?
I have jus learnt why my chain was acting up. Perfect tutorial, now my chain ring & chain will have to be changed. Checked cassette, that's fine. Again best tutorial, easy to follow. 👍
Great video. My 9 speed chain had streched after just 1.000 km. I'm just 73 kg and I didn't steep hills so much. But I think I made a mistake last summer. There was a rust on the chain and I put it in a bottle and add lemon salt and boiled water. I should had to wait just 15 minutes but I didn't know and I left it for 2 hours :) I think this damage the metal. Anyway I've already wanted to pass 11-34 cassette and I bought a new shiny chain. :)
I get good results from running two chains. I swap them out every month or so and they get a thorough clean and relube. Thanks for the very informative video.
Sound advice. I have three cassettes. One has done 15,000km, another about 5,000km and the last about 5,000km equivalent on the turbo trainer. I can't tell the difference between them, so I must be doing something right :)
This is a great video with a flaw. It has a wonderful description of chain wear, why it's a problem, and even when to replace the chain, but then it recommends the Park chain checker, which is not a good way to measure wear. A ruler measuring 24 links over 12 inches, and using 1/16" elongation as a guide, which is easy enough to see, and you're good to go. It's even cheaper than the Park chain tool. The problem with the Park tool is that it is not only measuring the chain elongation, it's also measuring other things, like the the gap between the the roller and the pin as well as the wear between the roller and the pin. Picture it, the Park tool pushes itself between two rollers, each of which push against a pin, so its measurement, as Sheldon Brown says in his article on the subject of chain wear, is confounded by the roller play . Stick with a ruler, it's more accurate, or go for the Shimano chain tools that avoid the problem with the Park and other tools. Nah, go for the ruler. Thanks for the great video all the same!
Hi, wish I had seen this earlier. I see your point, but I do not agree this is a serious flaw. Other experts suggest elongation measures with rulers even on an entire chain are likely incorrect, "as they miss the wear from the rollers", see ZeroFrictionCycling in zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Chain-Longevity-Testing-Full-test-brief.pdf . To nit pick, the measures are pin to bush, bush to roller, as rollers run on the bushes not the pins; i fully acknowledge this is not fair as it does not diminish your argument. Wear from rollers impacts the life of the chain too. In the tool case they measure only 2 link roller/bushing sets of the 11 measured (eg ParkTool CC-2, which is 18% of the rollers) not all of them, but i get the point that what matters is the pin to pin as that is what hits the cogs. But the longer the tool (eg ParkTool CC-3.2 is longer than CC-2 so less than 18% of rollers are measured) the smaller the impact. In the ruler method, to be accurate you would need to pull the chain off and measure it in entirety and then measure segments as some segments of the chain will wear differently; this segment issue is key to why the tools are viable. The additional (very minor) wear of the rollers may be ignored as it allows us to avoid reaching the 0.5% wear point, which is the damage point and we can quickly and easily measure 3-4 locations on the chain much faster and probably more accurately than holding up a ruler and measuring by eye; a digital measuring device may solve that for those of us with age related eye deterioration. So the ruler method has accuracy issues too as it is by eye for what is a very small measure (0.5%) but more than that, it has inconvenience issues and that makes it less desirable. Easy to use the tool and in many places whilst the chain is on the bike. I am saying yes your point is valid, but the convenience and frankly minor over read makes the tool superior as it will get done and more and often.
@@Desmo500 Hi there! Thanks for this reply. i think both you and the author of that zero-friction article agree that the ruler method is accurate. I think most of the point in the article and in your note is that the ruler method is hard to do. I don't agree with that -- it is very easy to see 1/16 and 1/32 or 1.5mm and 3.0mm of wear-related elongation over 24 links with corrected vision, and it's soooo simple to do. You can just line up a student's ruler against the chain. I line up the one-inch mark against the leading edge of a plate, and bang, you've checked a nice 24-pin span at the 13 inch mark. None of the 0.1mm that the article mentions. There's an even easier way if you have a retractable measuring tape using the hook at the end on the leading edge of a plate, but I didn't mention it b/c it requires a measuring tape in good condition. I also just tried using a ruler with my phone's magnifying-glass feature, and that was very easy as well. In mm land (lucky!), you might want to put a pen mark so you don't have to convert from 12in every time. In any case, even a beginner to the process can do the measurement in 30 seconds, easy. Also, the rollers wear evenly enough that the pin-to-pin measurement is sufficient and gives an accurate measure of how hard the chain is being on the sprocket teeth. You mention that the roller clearance does get measured twice by the tool, which is magnified since the tool is only measuring a small number of links, but that this doesn't hurt anything b/c you only reject a chain early (I agree that this is the lesser of the two kinds of bad readings), and that the tolerances can be tight or loose. It's been a while, but I know that Regina chains could be nearly out of spec when they were new b/c of large roller inner diameters. Why bother with the inaccuracy? And why not the Shimano tool instead, which has the advantage of being an official-looking tool and doesn't cause the error that the Park tool and others make? We should support the kind of manufacturer that gets things right like that. But really, and I think this is where I have to admit guilt that I am overly passionate about this -- less is more. Most of us already have a ruler on hand, so you don't have to buy anything, and there will be permanently fewer things to deal with. Also, these tips make it all around the world, and in many parts, the money spent on a tool would be better spent on the chain when it's needed. Finally, for the less-bike-focused persons of the world (you know, the type who would likely not an enjoy a dinner party with the two of us as guests), giving a non-tool method might keep them from lugging their machine to the bike shop, which I think is the point of this great video. Have a good season!
It's interesting to see how much improved your videos are. The basic information is still the same but the production quality has improved. I just did this same job earlier today.
@@stevenleffanue Yah! The information is really useful. Many times I've had many of same issues you've encountered and it's great to see fixes and work arounds with respect to tools and bike related equipment. I agree with your central focus, but nicer videos also improve the information transfer.
I just replaced my chain after two years. It was riding up on on the teeth and occasionally jumping under hard pedaling. The chain was about 1/2 inch stretched overall!
hang that chains , it gives better viev of elongation. cogs and chain rings can be restored by reshaping and re pitching teeth. cog check by tool does not give real situation with cog because , chain skip happen when push hard on pedal, if it skips by small force it means that cog is resurrected long time ago. some tips: if you like to save chain: keep it clean and waxed, drive biggest as posible chain rings in front and rear and do not drive at high angle(diagonally)between front and rear rings- make custom gear ratios and adjust most used ratio/gear to be strait ( i made that mostly use 3 ring on rear and big on front, and that 3 and 4 rings are from ug shimano series that has wide and high teeth), avoid drive on rain and on dirt by the way good video with every important notice about chain wear
Very good video the best explanation on utube on that note i just got my 105 shifters 5 minutes ago im now going to watch your video on how to install them on my 60 inch tv 5 feet away from my bike so i dont miss anything lol.
Nice graphic.. and good explanations, but the ruler seems to be more accurate than chain wear tool. Just that it's difficult to use. When I last time replaced my chain, the ruler said it's still fine, but the chain wear check tool fell in at 0.5 side... So it was just rollers and pushing that were worn.. I continued to ride, for a while, but then my nerves gave up.. measuring it with ruler every time after ride.. So I took it off and then when I put it side by side with new chain.. it was only 2mm longer maybe. After 3000Km. But because I did not have spare new connecting pin.. or quick link. I Installed the new chain anyways.. better for my nerves too, don't have to measure it so often. I guess worn rollers and pushing only affect shifting, but won't accelerate the wear of cogs and chainrings.. And yes the 11 speed chain last longer than old 8 speed chains did on my previous bike.. probably depends on brand and grade.. I always keep at least one new chain as spare. To have it when needed.. And buy it at winter or something, when they have some barging. ^_^
I have heard that the chain wear tools have that possible flaw where the chain links/pins might not be stretched enough, but the rollers have some play that allows the tool to drop in the chain (a wrong diagnosis of sorts). I haven't experienced it myself, probably because my larger body size and harder pedaling cadence tends to stretch the chain itself more readily. Still, I have been measuring with both a tool and a ruler for sanity check. Both methods have always come to the same results for me so far. I would still replace if the rollers have enough play to allow the wear tool to fit, because the chain could still ride higher on the front/rear sprockets.
Ryan Otte What you said is true. In this video he does not differentiate roller wear from pin and bushing wear. Roller wear does not make the chain longer. Pin and bushing does. The tool he used lets roller wear affect the measurement, which will cause a chain to be replaced early. The Pedro’s chain checker will isolate the pin and bushing wear. Chain Checker Plus II www.amazon.com/dp/B075VR82NN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_92nbFbQ8EJCA4
Smashing it again with a video like that. well done and well explained. Though the narrower chains that are just as strong as wider ones is...not always true. I misshifted and then accelerated a bit twice with my 11spd SLX drivetrain and both times, the chain snapped like it was made out of glass. Did the same thing on my old 3x8 drivetrain without EVER breaking a chain. Same with 9sps. can't compare with 10spd, but the setup to 11spd feels really really fragile. but on the other hand, IF you shift properly(which i have to constantly think about) 11spd chains are just fine
You think so? I kind of expect them to write me off as a really bad case of gear-cruncher. For really rough and high torque tours i still prefer my singlespeed converted hardtail
Best video I've ever seen explaining chainwear, and I've been fixing my own bikes, replacing chains, cassettes, and cranksets for over 30 years. Thank you so much for video 😊😊
This video should have been watched by millions of people! Thank You so much SIR!
Excellent explanation! No nonsense, no needless talking, no stupid music, excellent graphics.
That is by far the best video I have ever seen explaining chain-wear. Your graphics are outstanding on this! I know how much time it takes to put a video like this together, with this kind of quality! I just happened to change both my chains on my indoor training bike, and my race bike last week after checking the chain-wear. Amazing what a new chain does for shifting and the noise level on the drivetrain. You video is very much appreciated by a fellow cyclist in Texas!
Glad you like the vid. Cheers from Australia to you there in Texas!
@@stevenleffanue Single speed. Any chain, worn or not. Works.
Totally agree with you.
GCN pisses me off sometimes when they are doing tutorials on perfect bikes, they often neglect to show what a worn out component looks like. Thanks for this video, really thorough.
Absolutely agree
In all fairness they probably don't have them long enough to actually wear anything out like the rest of us.
Yeah fair point
You said it !!
Best explation I have seen.
complete explation, the best
I didn't quite know what to look for, this explation is probably the best on UA-cam imo
Yes, the shark really cleared things up for me.
Explationary
@@zachc5456 Soon I'll be moving to Australia so I can become an Ex-plat
Just like to back up what Tower Runner said below - fantastic video with very clear descriptions and graphics. Well done!
I let my last road chain go to far and had to replace the cassette too. Got it done, working, but still had aweful drivetrain noise, and thought my front chainrings needed replacing too. Had a ride in the rain, washed bike, re-oiled chain, and suddenly it was silent! All the noise was apparently due to the storage grease on the chain. Never experienced it like that before, but there you go - I'll be re-oiling my new chains from now on.
You just inspired me to keep a better eye on my chain. I do have a chain checker tool, but I never use it. Such a waste of cassette and chainring :( I just saw a bunch of chain-wear vids but yours is so clear, with the visuals. My chain is even sitting on top of a brand new chainring, so now I know why. Thanks a lot!
Never seen a video that explains this nicely how a chain wear affects your drivetrain. Good job, and thank you!
Thank God for this gentleman who explains this important matter so thoroughly and clearly... For free!
The best video on the topic I have seen, thanks for the detailed graphical explanation.
This is the exact high quality video I was looking for. The amount of work put into it is obvious. Thanks.
New chain on worn cogs is bad I found that out real quick a few years ago. Great video.
Excellent video!! Simple explanation!! I have leanrt so many things today! I was wondering why I didn't have smooth gear changing on my bike! I have found the solution. From now on I will put a new chain every 2000 Khm. Thanks!!
Love your no nonsense videos - thanks
Another great video Steve. Very comprehensive. I always feel like I learned some important stuff from your videos and you don't skimp on the details. Keep up the good work.
Great video! I have found that for me my chains wear about three times as fast as my cassettes. A new chain will wear down very quickly on a worn cassette and vice versa. Usually, the wear of only a few of the most used cogs on the cassette "spoil" the cassette. A trick I have used in the past to extend the life of chains and cassettes is to start with three chains and rotate them on about a 1000km basis. The chain and cassette wear matches up better and reduces the accelerated wear caused by mixing new and worn components. It has doubled to tripled the life of those two components on my commuter bikes. I usually put in about 5000-9000km annually so it can save a bit of cash to purchase other bike bling!
Yes,rotating 2 or more chains is a good method too.
Love this tip. Makes sense too! Took off my chain and saw visable wear. Decided to swap it before it put wear on the cassette.
Started this video thinking..he can’t teach me anything. I was so wrong! Great video and best explanation ever! Thanks!
This is absolutely clear, thanks and keep up the good work!
Nice job on explaining important stuff regarding chain wear..and not just for dummies...like me.
Excellent explanation and well selected pictures!
To estimate a chain wear one can also use a caliper.
I really appreciate your channel. Clear real to the point explanations. Thanks for your effort please keep them coming.
I describe and advise this many times a week to my customers, your explanation is excellent/
Still one of the best videos on the subject! TY
Without a doubt, this is the very best video on chain wear I have ever seen, well done sir
Greetings from California! Excellent video " mate" thanks for the knowledge! Keep up this great service which you are doing- educating the next generation of cyclists.
Really informative video! Explains everything about chains and drivetrain so clearly, thanks!
Excellent video, I’ve actually just replaced a SRAM Red chain after 1400 miles, it showed .25% at 1000miles then rapidly went to .5%. Interestingly it didn’t measure the same wear right around the chain, some places were slightly better than others. So worth checking in 2-3 places.
Yes thats good practice to check in multiple places on the chain.
Truly informative. Professional level forensics. Thank you.
Great video, my friend!
Last good explanation about this issue I've seen was on Sheldon Brown's forum, but you made an even more detailed one.
Greetings from Brazil, you are for sure helping a lot of cyclists here!
You are a GREAT teacher! Thank you SO much for sharing your knowledge with us UA-camrs.
by far the best video ive seen explaining exactly why my bike is knackered lol
The best explanation I've ever seen thanks
Hmm.. I think this vid was a little bit more than helpful... It explained in full detail just what happens to our drive systems .. I'd say it was more like... Amazing!..Thanks for taking the time and doing this for all who ride...
What an excellent, thorough video! Seriously impressed!
Best overall description and explanation for how to recognize when the chain needs replacing and the impact on chain rings and rear cogs! Thanks!
I cant honestly fathom why someone gives this a dislike, its a brilliant explaination on the matter
Worth watching every minute of the video. So detailed and comprehensive.
A complete and comprehensive explanation regarding chain wear and tear...
One of the best explained videos on this topic!
Probably the most imformation on any bike video I’ve seen well done.
One of the best bike channel I know. Good job!
Another quality video. Best Explanation by far.
👍Good , easy to understand,& amazing illustration, thanks a lot.
Hello OZ and thank you for this very useful video. You really elaborated it to the smallest details 👍
You've just got a sub!
This is the most detailed explanation of chain wear ever. Nobody ever mentioned 0.5% wear, everyone sticks to 0.75%. Thank you, I'm going to check out your other videos.
Super video. Answered all my questions clearly and accurately.
Without a shadow the best explanation I've seen & simply exactly what I was looking for! Thank you, Oz mate:)
High Quality Content. Thanks for sharing ❤
A very nice and very detailed vid - thank you for all the work.
Outstanding Oz! My bike is hurting for sure. Front rings are sharp and a few chipped off. Rear cassette looks good I think. It was a free used bike and I don't know the history. It has got me peddling again though, which I am very grateful for. Cheers from California.
Nice to hear your on a bike then Ronald 😁. Sounds like rings or crankset needs replacing and following what you say,probarbly the chain and cogset also...maybe thats why it was a freebee?
Greetings from Australia too 😎
oz cycle I am very happy to be riding again. I forgot how enjoyable it was. It's a Gary Fisher (China). Somebody did some upgrades on the bike I do believe. The front rings seem to riveted on (Suntour). Plus the bottom bracket has play in it. Probably new crank set and chain. If I have the correct language/description. Maybe that is why they gave it to me? Hahaha! Probably! Hopefully not too expensive?
now that was well done ,fully explains what's going on all around and now we know what to look for even without the tool
Cheapest .5% tool is "Unior" from Merlin or Chainreaction. Park is next cheapest.
I have jus learnt why my chain was acting up. Perfect tutorial, now my chain ring & chain will have to be changed. Checked cassette, that's fine. Again best tutorial, easy to follow. 👍
Excellent vídeo! thank you and congratulations! I have learned more than I expected...
Learnt more about the chain and wear today. Thanks for your help.
Fantastic overview, and love the graphics!
Excellent video, really well explained. A chain wear tool is a well worth buying.
Very well explained and illustrated - excellent. Thanks
Great video. My 9 speed chain had streched after just 1.000 km. I'm just 73 kg and I didn't steep hills so much. But I think I made a mistake last summer. There was a rust on the chain and I put it in a bottle and add lemon salt and boiled water. I should had to wait just 15 minutes but I didn't know and I left it for 2 hours :) I think this damage the metal. Anyway I've already wanted to pass 11-34 cassette and I bought a new shiny chain. :)
I get good results from running two chains. I swap them out every month or so and they get a thorough clean and relube. Thanks for the very informative video.
Thats exactly what I do Blake, I just didnt mention it in the vid. Cheers
great, maybe the best video on chain wear! THANKS!
Outstanding clarity, thank you.
Sound advice. I have three cassettes. One has done 15,000km, another about 5,000km and the last about 5,000km equivalent on the turbo trainer. I can't tell the difference between them, so I must be doing something right :)
Remember to check several different sections of the chain. They do Not wear evenly in all links. Probably due to slight manufacturing tolerance
no, because your pedaling, you are not electric motor
Awesome video. A lot of useful information. Thanks a lot.
This is a great video with a flaw. It has a wonderful description of chain wear, why it's a problem, and even when to replace the chain, but then it recommends the Park chain checker, which is not a good way to measure wear. A ruler measuring 24 links over 12 inches, and using 1/16" elongation as a guide, which is easy enough to see, and you're good to go. It's even cheaper than the Park chain tool. The problem with the Park tool is that it is not only measuring the chain elongation, it's also measuring other things, like the the gap between the the roller and the pin as well as the wear between the roller and the pin. Picture it, the Park tool pushes itself between two rollers, each of which push against a pin, so its measurement, as Sheldon Brown says in his article on the subject of chain wear, is confounded by the roller play . Stick with a ruler, it's more accurate, or go for the Shimano chain tools that avoid the problem with the Park and other tools. Nah, go for the ruler. Thanks for the great video all the same!
Hi, wish I had seen this earlier. I see your point, but I do not agree this is a serious flaw.
Other experts suggest elongation measures with rulers even on an entire chain are likely incorrect, "as they miss the wear from the rollers", see ZeroFrictionCycling in zerofrictioncycling.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2018/04/Chain-Longevity-Testing-Full-test-brief.pdf .
To nit pick, the measures are pin to bush, bush to roller, as rollers run on the bushes not the pins; i fully acknowledge this is not fair as it does not diminish your argument.
Wear from rollers impacts the life of the chain too.
In the tool case they measure only 2 link roller/bushing sets of the 11 measured (eg ParkTool CC-2, which is 18% of the rollers) not all of them, but i get the point that what matters is the pin to pin as that is what hits the cogs. But the longer the tool (eg ParkTool CC-3.2 is longer than CC-2 so less than 18% of rollers are measured) the smaller the impact. In the ruler method, to be accurate you would need to pull the chain off and measure it in entirety and then measure segments as some segments of the chain will wear differently; this segment issue is key to why the tools are viable. The additional (very minor) wear of the rollers may be ignored as it allows us to avoid reaching the 0.5% wear point, which is the damage point and we can quickly and easily measure 3-4 locations on the chain much faster and probably more accurately than holding up a ruler and measuring by eye; a digital measuring device may solve that for those of us with age related eye deterioration.
So the ruler method has accuracy issues too as it is by eye for what is a very small measure (0.5%) but more than that, it has inconvenience issues and that makes it less desirable. Easy to use the tool and in many places whilst the chain is on the bike. I am saying yes your point is valid, but the convenience and frankly minor over read makes the tool superior as it will get done and more and often.
@@Desmo500 Hi there! Thanks for this reply.
i think both you and the author of that zero-friction article agree that the ruler method is accurate. I think most of the point in the article and in your note is that the ruler method is hard to do. I don't agree with that -- it is very easy to see 1/16 and 1/32 or 1.5mm and 3.0mm of wear-related elongation over 24 links with corrected vision, and it's soooo simple to do. You can just line up a student's ruler against the chain. I line up the one-inch mark against the leading edge of a plate, and bang, you've checked a nice 24-pin span at the 13 inch mark. None of the 0.1mm that the article mentions. There's an even easier way if you have a retractable measuring tape using the hook at the end on the leading edge of a plate, but I didn't mention it b/c it requires a measuring tape in good condition. I also just tried using a ruler with my phone's magnifying-glass feature, and that was very easy as well. In mm land (lucky!), you might want to put a pen mark so you don't have to convert from 12in every time. In any case, even a beginner to the process can do the measurement in 30 seconds, easy.
Also, the rollers wear evenly enough that the pin-to-pin measurement is sufficient and gives an accurate measure of how hard the chain is being on the sprocket teeth. You mention that the roller clearance does get measured twice by the tool, which is magnified since the tool is only measuring a small number of links, but that this doesn't hurt anything b/c you only reject a chain early (I agree that this is the lesser of the two kinds of bad readings), and that the tolerances can be tight or loose. It's been a while, but I know that Regina chains could be nearly out of spec when they were new b/c of large roller inner diameters. Why bother with the inaccuracy? And why not the Shimano tool instead, which has the advantage of being an official-looking tool and doesn't cause the error that the Park tool and others make? We should support the kind of manufacturer that gets things right like that.
But really, and I think this is where I have to admit guilt that I am overly passionate about this -- less is more. Most of us already have a ruler on hand, so you don't have to buy anything, and there will be permanently fewer things to deal with. Also, these tips make it all around the world, and in many parts, the money spent on a tool would be better spent on the chain when it's needed. Finally, for the less-bike-focused persons of the world (you know, the type who would likely not an enjoy a dinner party with the two of us as guests), giving a non-tool method might keep them from lugging their machine to the bike shop, which I think is the point of this great video.
Have a good season!
Really nicely made video. Good work, my friend. I can vouch for the Park Tool chain checker. Great value.
Best video I have seen any wear (get it 😂) on the net. Seriously, awesome explanation.
finally i understand what the 1.0 and 0.75 stands for on my chain measure tool.... lol! thanks! and reallly loves your videos!
Truly Awesome Video. Well done, and thank you!
Absolutely fantastic analysis. Great work.
Thanks for the great video! I'll point out to those who are needing the information ;-)
Thank you so much for this explainer!
Really clear...
Excellent video, Steve!
It's interesting to see how much improved your videos are. The basic information is still the same but the production quality has improved. I just did this same job earlier today.
Glad the vids are a bit better Charles....its really still only to help people not Hollywood anyhow 😎
@@stevenleffanue Yah! The information is really useful. Many times I've had many of same issues you've encountered and it's great to see fixes and work arounds with respect to tools and bike related equipment. I agree with your central focus, but nicer videos also improve the information transfer.
Cheers mate , good imfo, just overhauling my road bike now. Saved me a lot of pain.😁
Thank you for this! Very informative and easy to understand
Top stuff just getting spares for all good to know when to do all this and how . Thank you m8 !
best video i've seen re chain-wear, front/rear cogs... thanks
Very well illustrated and explained, thank you mate!
I just replaced my chain after two years. It was riding up on on the teeth and occasionally jumping under hard pedaling. The chain was about 1/2 inch stretched overall!
hang that chains , it gives better viev of elongation.
cogs and chain rings can be restored by reshaping and re pitching teeth.
cog check by tool does not give real situation with cog because , chain skip happen when push hard on pedal, if it skips by small force it means that cog is resurrected long time ago.
some tips: if you like to save chain: keep it clean and waxed, drive biggest as posible chain rings in front and rear and do not drive at high angle(diagonally)between front and rear rings- make custom gear ratios and adjust most used ratio/gear to be strait ( i made that mostly use 3 ring on rear and big on front, and that 3 and 4 rings are from ug shimano series that has wide and high teeth), avoid drive on rain and on dirt
by the way good video with every important notice about chain wear
Good bud Steve especially for the non mechanically experienced riders
Great video, probably best explanation on UA-cam. Thank you!
Very good video the best explanation on utube on that note i just got my 105 shifters 5 minutes ago im now going to watch your video on how to install them on my 60 inch tv 5 feet away from my bike so i dont miss anything lol.
Brilliant video, very well explained! Thanks so much
Excellent video. I learned a lot. Thanks!
Best vid on chain wear in this universe !
Thank you so much this is very helpful information. I wish I have watched this video long ago...
omg! Everytime at ozcyle i learn something. It's a pattern.
Nice graphic.. and good explanations, but the ruler seems to be more accurate than chain wear tool. Just that it's difficult to use. When I last time replaced my chain, the ruler said it's still fine, but the chain wear check tool fell in at 0.5 side... So it was just rollers and pushing that were worn.. I continued to ride, for a while, but then my nerves gave up.. measuring it with ruler every time after ride.. So I took it off and then when I put it side by side with new chain.. it was only 2mm longer maybe. After 3000Km. But because I did not have spare new connecting pin.. or quick link. I Installed the new chain anyways.. better for my nerves too, don't have to measure it so often. I guess worn rollers and pushing only affect shifting, but won't accelerate the wear of cogs and chainrings.. And yes the 11 speed chain last longer than old 8 speed chains did on my previous bike.. probably depends on brand and grade.. I always keep at least one new chain as spare. To have it when needed.. And buy it at winter or something, when they have some barging. ^_^
You must be a lightweight rider Hardi?
I have heard that the chain wear tools have that possible flaw where the chain links/pins might not be stretched enough, but the rollers have some play that allows the tool to drop in the chain (a wrong diagnosis of sorts). I haven't experienced it myself, probably because my larger body size and harder pedaling cadence tends to stretch the chain itself more readily. Still, I have been measuring with both a tool and a ruler for sanity check. Both methods have always come to the same results for me so far. I would still replace if the rollers have enough play to allow the wear tool to fit, because the chain could still ride higher on the front/rear sprockets.
Ryan Otte What you said is true. In this video he does not differentiate roller wear from pin and bushing wear. Roller wear does not make the chain longer. Pin and bushing does. The tool he used lets roller wear affect the measurement, which will cause a chain to be replaced early. The Pedro’s chain checker will isolate the pin and bushing wear. Chain Checker Plus II www.amazon.com/dp/B075VR82NN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_92nbFbQ8EJCA4
Another informative video.. thanks mate
I've read elsewhere that you should always replace the cassette when replacing the chain. Nice to know that's not true! Thank you.
Outstanding.... I'm so impressed. Very well done 👍 Subscribed
Great video! I have to buy a new tool to measure the wear of my chain! Many thanks.
Smashing it again with a video like that. well done and well explained.
Though the narrower chains that are just as strong as wider ones is...not always true. I misshifted and then accelerated a bit twice with my 11spd SLX drivetrain and both times, the chain snapped like it was made out of glass. Did the same thing on my old 3x8 drivetrain without EVER breaking a chain. Same with 9sps. can't compare with 10spd, but the setup to 11spd feels really really fragile. but on the other hand, IF you shift properly(which i have to constantly think about) 11spd chains are just fine
Mmmmm...you should take that up with Shimano, Calvin,you might get chains under warranty.
You think so? I kind of expect them to write me off as a really bad case of gear-cruncher.
For really rough and high torque tours i still prefer my singlespeed converted hardtail
Much appreciate showing the tape measure check. Thanks.
Clear explanation, thank you !
This is top-notch content. Thank you. I just subscribed.