How to Build a Virtual Pinball Table - Part 1 GET THESE PARTS
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- Опубліковано 20 лип 2024
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00:00 Intro
00:13 Overview
01:30 My Cabinet Specs
04:25 How to get started
06:23 Must buy these first thing!
10:01 Soleniod details! Be careful! MUST SEE MODEL NUMBERS!
11:54 Avoid these models!
13:27 Beacon details
14:44 Automotive lights for strobe and rgb flashers
17:35 Surround sound feedback details and analog plunger using potentiometer
19:00 5v power supply details
19:43 Leaf switches are a must
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Vic_VP
34-38 38 Street
Astoria NY 11101
Shopping List:
Power supplies - all same link, choose from drop down menu -
24v 33a 400w
12v 33
5v 20a 100w
www.ebay.com/itm/352657328504
16channel sainsmart - www.amazon.com/SainSmart-101-...
ledwiz - groovygamegear.com/webstore/i...
encoder for buttons and nudge and plunger - www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...
inline fuse holder - 10Pcs 5x20mm AGC Glass 3A Fuse Holder In-line Screw Type With 18 AWG
fuses - 10Pcs 5x20mm AGC Glass 3A Fuse Holder In-line Screw Type With 18 AWG
slide potentiemoter for plunger - www.ebay.com/itm/BOURNS-10K-O...
leaf switch micro switch replacer - www.ebay.com/itm/Rollie-Leaf-...
wire spool i used - www.amazon.com/Stranded-Condu...
beacons - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...
strobes - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
rgb flashers - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
led under cab lighting - www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
monitors used
dmd spectre 22inch
www.amazon.com/dp/B07774L6TT?...
back glass 32inch viewsonic
www.amazon.com/dp/B0787WGCXT/...
playfield
Samsung 50" Class TU700D-Series Crystal Ultra HD 4K Smart TV UN50TU700DFXZA - Ігри
Awesome content Vic! looking forward to the rest of the series!
cant wait for this series!! thanks vic!!
Awesome! I too can't wait to see more!
Exactly what I was looking for. Starting a build now. Thanks
Saweeet! Hope it helps! I'm still working on software slowly haha
@@Vic_VP This is perfect. I totally agree that you have to have all the force feedback. Would not build without. Actually getting items off your list now but the one link for "inline fuse holder - 10Pcs 5x20mm AGC Glass 3A Fuse Holder In-line Screw Type With 18 AWG
" is going to the potentiometer. Is this the correct item? www.amazon.com/5x20mm-Holder-Inline-150pcs-Assorted/dp/B07F8RLMPB Thanks again. - I miss read that my mistake.
@@johnambers hmmm ill have to check that. I ordered the fuses and in line seperate
They are on ebay
Here's the fuses
www.ebay.com/itm/112374379349
Here's the inline holders
www.ebay.com/itm/10pcs-5x20mm-Screw-type-Fuse-Holder-Case-In-Line-with-Wire-Cable-US-Stock-/273521400326?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
@@Vic_VP Thanks you
progress?
Great informative video! If you get some zipties, you can clean up those wires really nice =) I do work on servers, tied up wires pop!
Yea now that I have a better understanding on wires, my next build will be much cleaner 👍👍 gonna prob use jamma harness wires or ribbon cable
nice project :)
I think the Ultra PN also has a Grinder motor, and a knocker.
The 3RH1131-1AB00 contactors are rated as 24v AC units vs 24v DC - does seem pretty confusing -
Hey Vic you mentioned in the video that the potentiometer you got for the plunger was too long. Just want to clarify that the link you have in the description is for the correct size potentiometer. Thanks!
The one i linked is the one i purchased
I would suggest getting the one i purchased. Better to be too long than to be too short
Great video man, I was going to get the Attack from Mars Arcade1up cab but it sold out instantly and also for $600 I'd rather build one that has way more games. I do have a question though, I'm having a hard time finding a power supply with those exact specs; 24v 33a 400w. Is it ok to go bigger, I found one that was 24 v33a 792w and thats the closest I could get. Do you think that would work?
Yea the more watts means the more toys it can power. 792w what's tho is a lot 🤔 never heard of that amount honestly. But yea the more the merrier
I also have in this vid or a seperate vid, in the description links to all the parts I got.
Are the contactors the only things going to 24v? Reason I ask is that I'm going to use 12v car solenoids. If that is the case I'll just need to swap out the 24v for an additional 12v power supply correct? Thank you for your help! I've watched this video about 100 times already and have almost all my parts!! It's almost time to buy TV's and wood.
Correct 24v only is for my.contactors
If your using 12v then it's smart to have its own separate 12v for the solenoids vs putting all 12v toys on 1 power supply
Did you also add some fuses to be sure you don’t get a power overload when for instance a solenoid breaks down?
Yes always add fuses, mine are there next to the ledwiz. In part 2 you see them better
Take a drink every time he says force feedback
Lmao. I woukd have said dof but not many people understand the terminology
Hey Vic - it looks like the Siemens contactors you have in the back are only 24v DC Coils - while your first 7 contactors seem to support both AC/DC 24v - are you running the same 24v DC power supply for both sets ?
I'm using the same 24v power supply. No issues besides the slode difference in noise and force... maybe thats y? Lol
@@Vic_VP it’s good to know they work better with a 24v DC input even though they are rated as 24v AC units - you may have discovered a very valuable trick/tip here that no one may really know about or understand very well - I think the main difference is that the internal coils used for the AC unit is stronger/better than the DC only rated one - if you look at your back table contactors you will see it say 24v DC in the top right corner of them - the other ones do not have any reference to DC just 24v
Can I ask how long have you been using the better ones now and have any burned out at all ?
I assume you have them all daisy-chained with your 24v DC power supply and the ground ?
You have a great looking VPin !!
Thanks Doug, yes all daisy chained together
Pins been up since aug 30
I play it everyday for about 2 hours followed by 2 hours of just adding more tables 1 by 1
I am just starting my journey of building a pinball cabinet. I have been looking for the solenoids you recommend, but they appear to be hard to come by at a reasonable price. Basically, you can't get a used one for less than $50 right now. Is that about what you paid or has the market changed?
Market changed, I paid 10$ per solenoid when I made my cab. Yes now there like 50$ on ebay. For that price you might as well get Thunderclaps
The cheap Siemens are available, but as I stated in my video... you notice a significant difference
Do you by chance have a link for the solenoids you ended up getting? I bet the tv you got looks great.
Negative as I got them used. Just search the model numbers. I suggest getting them used as new are expensive
@@Vic_VP Will do thanks.
How do you like the TU700D 4K Crystal UHD HDR as your playfeild
Any input lag and how is the refresh rate?
I built 4 vpins with the same TV, I like it.
Max on 4k is 60hz
120hz if you do 1080p
Should I get the preinstalled heat sinks on the LED Wiz or no? It's an extra $3.95
I didn't use any heat sinks 🤔
The contractor relay "solenoids" will only use 1.125A to close, if you only are controlling the 10 solenoids, you can use a much smaller 24VAC Power Supply, if you close all 10 at the exact same time, you would only need 12A
But for a few bucks why get a smaller Amp PS? Doesn't cost much of a difference. Plus always room for more toys. I also think depending on which contactor you get will determine the Amp needed....
I got a few vids going up of a vpin I just competed... 24v 25amp for 19$ can't go wrong with the price
@@Vic_VP The contractor relay
3RH1131-1AB00 is a 24VAC device, I assume if you are only spending $19, then you are buying a 24VDC power supply. You are taking a risk running with DC Power on a device designed to be controlled with AC.
The ones I have where read as DC. Even the lower end ones I mentioned are DC. Also the 1ab00 I have say 6a ... prob another reason why I went with a higher Amp PS. The new build I have coming up I used the 1bb40 model since the 1ab00 model are like 60$ each now lol
what did you do for side rails and lock bar... these pieces for me are starting to get expensive
I didn't do a lock bar... I find it pointless.
My side rails are 90 degree silver angles found at hardware store
@@Vic_VP just saw that on the video. I am taking that angle as it’s looks good. So I think that what I’ll do. Did you do glass or plexiglass
Plexiglass from lowes :)
Do you have a link that the leaf switches? Also why are they a game changer? Thanks! 🙏
O man it's a must for pinball... just feels way better on the fingers. And also that's the button used on real pinball machines. Instead of having to press a actual microswitch, there's no actual switch.
www.arcaderenovations.com/rollie-leaf-switch.html
Maybe I missed this somewhere but did you draw up the plans yourself or find them online somewhere.
I followed a bally wide body, but the width of the front panel marches the width of my tv.
Backbox width is width if the 32inch backglass monitor, and height of the monitor and dmd together for a seamless back box
@@Vic_VP Thanks I think I have wide body plans laying around somewhere.
@@foxhound34 irs a quick Google search
I just used it for the side and the location of the legs
I would suggest the MVP (minimum viable product) method of building. Start by building only that which can resemble a pinball machine then work on feedback. You're suggesting to build a car by first building out the AC, power locks then the four wheels and drive train. In Agile development you want quick wins follows by features. Very inspiring build Vic. I hope you play it until the buttons fall off.
Haha thanks dude, your suggestion is good
I have a guy that bought the a1up pin... no regrets because there's no room for power supplies,pc, solenoids and such haha.
I don't think many toys would fit in a mini vpin build like I reviewed before
wheres the link for the deep valley wide pinball cabnet?
Google Bally wide body cab dimensions
I can't find contactors for less than $70 each... where can I find second hand ones?
Ebay is your only option really
But yes I feel like after I posted this vid wceryone jumped on these contractors lol
Check the recent virtua pin mod I did and search up those contractors
how much did it cost you to build it in total...Thank you
Not counting the hours of work and programming side... hardware alone estimated 2500-2600
Mjrnetdotorg ( or just search pinscape on Google) has the most in depth plans, some may say too in depth, for building a virtual pinball machine I have ever seen it must be over 500 pages long. You and everyone who is interested should definitely check it out.
Yes I stated it a few times in my other vids, my build is a solid 90% of following his guide
Just my soleniods are not wired up the way he has his... hisnway for me it didn't work for some reason
@@Vic_VP I built a counter-cade a few years ago as my first project and right now I'm currently mid-build on a Full-size Arcade cab, but now all I want to do it build a VP cab (which was going to be my next project). Great work BTW.
Kun je er één bouwen voor mij?