This video is the best marketing piece ever to convince people to simply pay the high prices of this type of bike! Very fun and informative, congratulations!!
The last elves I had on my channel was crap. the headset had a load of slop. I hope yours is better - you'll find out when you do a heavy stop or go over a railway crossing!
I have a Giant Defy SL7 in with evidence of the frame being manufactured with a worn out internal bladder . During COVID 19 , some big companies did cut corners when supply chains were adversely affected .
Well done Jourdain. Particularly loved that you kept all the mistakes in the vid - as a DIY guy, thats much appreciated info. Looking to do an Elves build in 23 too.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video, Dominic! I've got to leave those mistakes in there.... it's real life! Hopefully a few people learnt something from them 😂 - Good luck with your build!
I have the same clamp on my seatpost, I found out that the bolt was getting loose with the vibration and reducing the torque, letting the seatpost to drop. I applied some Loctite thread locker and it worked great. I also changed the top steerer cap with a flat one to have a better compression for the bearings to avoid touching the plug underneath. Well done on the build process!
Thanks for the information. I'll chuck a bit of thread locker on mine to make sure that it doesn't wiggle loose. I've seen people change to various different compression plugs. I need to get a longer one anyway so I'll take note on the top cap size.
Great video again Jourdain! I absolutely love how you make mistakes and leave them in the video. We are human after all! Small tip: never clamp a workshopstand at the top tube. Instead install the seatpost first, and use that as your clamping point. The toptube is way to thin to support the weight.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I wanted this to be a true representation of a home build so the mistakes were staying in! Thanks for the tip on the top tube clamping 👍🏽
Best to avoid it altogether, can't speak for this bikes structure specifically, but my lightest ever bike (I'm a size 58 roughly depending on geometry, so large/xl bikes), was an Easton Scandium aluminum frame with carbon stays and fork... that frame was swaged, and in the main central section of the top tube, was 0.4mm thick (yes, less than 1/2mm).... that isn't a lot thicker than a soda can (0.2mm), so you can imagine not just the clamping pressure, but any leverage (tightening bolts on something, leaning slightly on the frame to reach something, etc) while it's fixed in a clamp, could EASILY buckle the aluminum (or in this case, crack the carbon if it's also relatively thin)... (that bike actually eventually broke at the seatstay/chainstay/dropout interface, one of the thickest parts of the bike through a roughly 1cm thick section, go figure, likely welding stresses...) Top tube is actually intended as a chord (some creative bikes actually use a cable instead of a tube, as an example), to resist the headtube and seattube being pulled apart, so it isn't by design a weight-bearing or pressure bearing design, while certainly made for SOME tolerance of pressures from the real-world, it's not robust (the downtube is generally the robust part of a frame). Just being in the habit to avoid clamping it is best at all times... One thing I HAVE done, is with an open clamp, I've "rested" the bike across the lower clamp face... any pressure then just causes it to sway (and makes me aware of that input pressure happening), but avoids any pressure spots of significance and no risk of crushing it. Just my thoughts on it.@@projectcycling
@@ChrisTexanIf the Scandium Aluminum frame had carbon seat stays and chain stays , the rear dropout junction would have been bonded with a resin or high strength adhesive . Especially if the dropouts are aluminium alloy which some of these types of frames were like Kinesis ones . Therfore , there would have been inconsistensies or irregularities at that dropout to carbon interface point .
My Falath frame has been sitting partially-assembled for the last week while waiting on the Jagwire gear/brake housings. Your video came at the perfect time since I am about to make every possible mistake known to man as I assemble it! And of course you reminded me that I forgot to put the grease on my crankset, so I guess its time to do that! Thanks for the video, I'll be watching it on repeat next week as I stumble my way through completing the build!
Great stuff. Definitely tell us how it rides. Recommend riding it back to back on a cornering course with a buddy that has a legit bike. That's what I did after I built up a Trifox X18 with ultegra/105 parts. A buddy and I rode his tarmac SL6, my BMC roadmachine and my trifox X18, and another buddies Yoeleo R12. The difference was 100% noticeable. I promptly put the Trifox up for sale and bought a used SL6 (only for marginally more than what I spend on building up the Trifox). When you ride bikes back to back, that is when the differences really come shining thru.
Watching this build and I’ve never been happier to ride a mechanical shifting, externally routed, rim brake bike. I’ll refer to this someday if I ever go to the dark side (internally routed, hydro disc), very informative.
Nice job. As an old mechanic from the days before carbon, these new bikes are exponentially more complex. I've made my number of mistakes on builds. That which does not make you stop riding, makes you a better mechanic.
Dentistry, watch making and gardening tools. You now have all you need to start one hell of business! Great vid though. It feels very satisfying building a bike.
Thank you for including the mistakes to help others avoid similar, its a great how to build a road bike DIY video :) cheers for your sense of humor and funny content added to the video :)
Shimano and other big brands recommend no grease on center lock threads. Incase of heat, it can melt onto the rotor and give issues. Also, the splines are tight enough and won’t likely give you issues when removing in the future
Setting up limit screws on rear derailleur is actually better with chain on. - Have the chain on the smallest cog on the rear and biggest on the front. - Set the High limit screw so the chain barely isn't touching the second smallest cog. - Bring up the tension (not too much, just so it isn't completely sloppy) on the shifter cable by hand and screw it tothe derailleur and then loosen the high limit screw slightly. It will remove the rest of the slop and will leave you with little to none derailleur adjustment, while also widening the gap between the 2 smallest cogs ever so slightly. - Shift through the gears, besidest the biggest one until they work mostly perfectly and then carefully shift on the biggest cog to adjust the low limit screw - Adjust the low limit screw with chain on the small cog at the front and shift through all the gears again, in all possible combinations - You are set up
I thoroughly enjoyed the detachments for jokes and even breaks for drawing time! top marks your investment payed off looks wicked fun to ride. Thanks so much for sharing !
Pro tip when you cut the cable housing slip an old used length of cable in the hole before you cut, the cable will help keep the housing from collapsing.
Three things on my build that my bike shop had an issue with. Same bike frame. Same groupset. Went with the br005 hydro mech brakes. 1. Compressionless housing wouldn’t work for the front brake as there was some carbon excess at the head tube where when you would turn the bar it would bind the front brake cable housing and create tension thus pulling on the brake cable. No bueno. Had to end up going with a regular cable housing since the slight difference in size allowed it to pass by the excess carbon without binding. These bikes are really best designed for hydraulic or electronic systems. 2. The way the cables were routed through the bars (same way you originally had it) didn’t allow very much room to actually screw in the included “out front mount” for the gps computer. Was only able to get one screw in and it’s fine, but I’m very particular with things and this bugged me a bit. 3. Something my lbs also noticed which might cause issues with mechanical brakes on this particular bike, is that the hole entrance on my fork was set towards the rear vs the front like on most branded bikes. The routing exit to the brake caliper was set towards the front, which caused a bind naturally on top of the excess carbon buildup. It basically just created an unnecessary bend that is never an issue with most branded bikes. As far as the ride of the bike, it’s freaking amazing. It’s so comfortable and feels super nimble/fast when you need it to be. It’s like 40mm lower on the head tube than the bike I used to ride, and it feels more comfortable on longer rides. If you can get past the little buggy issues, and know you’re getting an aero race type bike for much less than bike shop prices, it’s amazing value for that. If you’re looking for perfect, even at this cost, this may not be for you.
For compressionless brake housing, it is best to dremel or file the cut end down so it’s perfectly flat and 90deg cut. Takes out alot of play in the system for high load braking.
To fit cable’s hosings into the frame usually i use an old wheel spike,i cut it 10cm long +- and i fit it into the giude and the new hosing then I push it with the new sheet using the guide just to direct it outside without pulling
I just completed my Velobuild bike. First time for me and it was great. For the cables I used a magnetic router. It’s was invaluable. Nothing was pre routed in the bike though.
I purchased one of these Elves Falath pro rim brake frames custom made paint scheme and built and put it together in a couple of hours. Took it for a test ride and didnt want to come home and ended up doing a 100k ride and was so impressed i almost bought the company LOL, great Chinese maunfacturer on these uci approved frame. Highly recommended bike frame and couldnt find a fault in the bike after 3 months.
Top tip. I run GP5000s with Vittoria latex tubes and they are great. Much lighter and better performance. Don’t believe what people say about latex tubes being fragile and easily punctured. As long as you install them carefully and use talc they are more robust to punctures than butyl IMHO.
You really have a knack mate. Very fine presentations in all four I’ve watched on this CF investigation series of yours…watched in a row. I never do that! Keep on. I learned a lot and you practice a very crucial guideline that keeps my interest always…well, generally anyway: Honesty! New subscriber here. Thank you for your good work.
If you watch Gee Milner do the stem (I don’t like how he does it), he cuts the stem flush with the steerer, and yes that plug may stick up but when he puts the tiny spacer on top you can see it moves around freely and is not riding over the plug diameter, and the only thing that really holds it there in place is the ridge under the top cap.
Nice video. About the fork cutting point, it depends also by the top cap type. The one you're using it's a little bulky and can interfere with the compression plug so you correctly cut some mm more. If you have a completely flat top cap you can be less conservative
Those are close quartered cable bends in the handlebar/stem to steering tube do look tough to make. You did good. The results exceed the soon forgotten frustration. I've no issues with "Jagwire" cable and housing after a year. The bike looks fantastic!! Good how-to series. Hope it's a blast to ride.
You are correct... I haven't thought about those tight bends fro a while 😂 - I'm glad the jagwire cables have been good for you, hopefully it's the same story for me as well.
@@JourdainColeman It was certainly worth your effort as the bike looks great without the housing showing. Nice thing about the "Jagwire" is having leftover housing. I hope you get a break in the weather for a test ride on the street. I watched my bike mechanic replace the bottom bracket bearing on my Mt bike the other day. It was a learning experience for me, but he struggled a bit getting the new one centered. Keep the rubber side down.
When I first get any tire for later use, I take a silver or white highlighter marker and run it over top of the directional arrow so it can be seen much easier later.
I finally built mine up this week with Ultegra. Absolutely brilliant. I prefer it to my F12 DOGMA. - I just ordered a 2nd one to set up a frame for racing.
Must've taken you hours (I'm talking about the editing 👀). Loved the comical additions 🤣. It's great to see your hard work and persistence finally paying off with lots of views already. Looking forward to the next video 👌🙏
Hey Scott... it probably took me longer to edit and create the final video that it did to build the bike 😂 - A few people have commented on the editing so it makes it all worth it! The channel is growing at the moment which is great to see, it makes everything a little more motivating! Thanks for supporting the channel for a long time, you have been a rider from the early days 👍🏽
Very good build, Definetly wear a mask, lightly wet anything carbon that your going to cut, also dont use your bare hands for grease! the oils will cause corrosion to go much faster.
If you don't have a carbon cutting guide use a pipe cutting tool. Work slow applying just enough pressure to cut a single layer at a time. It will take some time but if done correctly no need for a vice or filing when done.
Thanks man! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for supporting me from early on in my journey! I don't forget those things. I hope you have had a good weekend and safe riding.
That was pretty freaking awesome, great video my dude... I usually skip through parts of bike build videos, but you made this very interesting and entertaining, 👍🏽👍🏽...
I'm really glad I subscribed to this channel: really interesting stuff. To throw in my two cents' worth, when you're messing with the brake discs, be sure not to get grease or oil on them or you'll contaminate the brake pads. After working with them I usually clean them off with a clean rag and rubbing alcohol just to be sure.
you build this huge chimney to have the option for more stack later? usually you just cut 4mm under the stem and insert the plug.. it is much more important that the plug covers the whole clamping area of the stem. it seemed a bit short now with the chimney, judging from the video picture.
Its end already 😆, well one of my best enjoyable video of bike build. Now i realized, i needed to be like you how you do it precisely not to make so many mistakes. Well in $2000 you've got a very decent carbon bike.(also my dream build 😁) (Feels like me sometimes 30 mins on scratching my head with my bike maintenance and build 🤣)
Hey! Good to hear the video was helpful for you 👌🏼 - It's good to show the mistakes so other people can learn form what i do wrong. Overall the bike turned out great
I think there's a bit too much grease being used in the BB and Crank install. That'll attract grit. It may repel water, I suppose. Perhaps a small amount of anti seize on the crank arm inner, non drive and the same on the crank spindle. The part that moves and is already greased is the sealed bearings in the BB. So the crankset shouldn't need any grease, just some sparing placed anti seize. Same with the centre lock disc rotors. The contact points there should have some small amount of anti seize.
I’m not a mechanic. I’m a lawyer. But I enjoy clumsily wrenching and building bikes for myself and others. I understand the reasoning behind internal routing - it’s marginally more aero and less cluttered. But one begins to wonder about form vs. function. This extreme routing cannot help but add friction to the system with twists and turns. Is it all worth it? I suppose wireless electronic systems solve much of the issue, but at what cost? The weed whacker trick? That’s slick. I’ll remember that.
This was honestly just a phenomenal video. Well done. Everyone wants to throw in your 2 cents. Mate you did great mistakes and all. Love the build and the final product
Great video with lots of really good tips. FYI though, where you bend the wire to hold the chain together, I've got that same chain breaker tool, if you look at the main handle there's a hooked wire there just for this. Perfect 3rd hand for breaking/linking chains.
I beautiful build! I hope the frame holds up since I heard conflicting data on them. The color is great! I learned a lot from this video, so thanks for this!
Fantastic video, well done on the build and honesty of how fiddly it is. Bike looks great! With cable inners get a set of Bike Inner Cable Wire Puller Pliers, they really are more effective and less aggressive than pliers.
Good video but I will always put foam tubing around any outer cable, gears and rear brake in your case, that goes through the frame. Nothing worse than a cable rattling around in the frame. Think you installed the split link the wrong way as well. Not all of them have a directional arrow but I tend to follow the shimano way. This has the fixed pin on the outer plate nearest the rear derailleur when the chain is below the chainstay. Also, loads easier to set up the front derailleur without the chain on. With most derailleurs you can screw in the lower limit screws enough to help you with setting it parallel to the outer chainring and 2mm above the outer teeth.
This is extremely educational for me Jourdain since i plan to build my own bike sometime in the future. I really appreciate your effort. One last thing, is there any other way to avoid the chimeny on top of your nice looking aero bars?
As @ivan suggested you can cut the steerer tube lower to your desired length. I left mine high in case I needed to raise the bars after my bike fit. As for the compression plug, I'm going to buy a long one that will cover the stem and then replace the one that I have.
@@RixnoAsteres Mine, i cut the tube more about 0.4cm under the stem level. My normal plug measure at 4.5cm fit just fine. If you affraid 4.5 not enough maybe just get 6cm would be better.
thank you very much for this video! Especially because this will be an almoust 1:1 copy guide for me next summer, when my elves frame bike will be build. Hopefully with some LTWOO hydraulic brakes.
So Jourdain, the one thing I didnt quite get, was why have you left a bit of the fork steerer pertruding? Is that to do with having a short compression plug?
Hi Harry, that was because I was going for a bike fit and I needed to have some flexibility to raise the stem if needed. If I needed to raise the stem, I could swap the spacer so it was under the stem which would raise the bars. It's not the best way to do it but at the time I had to give myself some wriggle room. I hope that helps 👍🏽
Really well done video, very entertaining and informative! Love your bike! everything look very nice! the only thing I don't like about your bike is the plug/adapter above the stem! look bulky and cheap with the extra bit sticking up!
Check out the full cost and weight breakdown of this build here - ua-cam.com/video/aVo3v3uEOVg/v-deo.html
Nice editing you clown
Quick question. Could you use normal handlebars without the internal cable routing?
After watching this I appreciate my exterior routed cables even more.
This video is the best marketing piece ever to convince people to simply pay the high prices of this type of bike! Very fun and informative, congratulations!!
The last elves I had on my channel was crap. the headset had a load of slop. I hope yours is better - you'll find out when you do a heavy stop or go over a railway crossing!
I saw your video! 👀 - I have some plans to put this bike through it's paces so let's see how it holds up 👍🏽
so how is it now @@JourdainColeman
Have you checked out the latest falath? I heard that they have upped their QC game by a huge margin these days
This video convinced me to buy a mass-produced carbon bike and call it a day.
I have a Giant Defy SL7 in with evidence of the frame being manufactured with a worn out internal bladder . During COVID 19 , some big companies did cut corners when supply chains were adversely affected .
Nothing is more cool than a chrome plated Schwinn Stingray with clothes pin and baseball card engine sound effects.
Well done Jourdain. Particularly loved that you kept all the mistakes in the vid - as a DIY guy, thats much appreciated info. Looking to do an Elves build in 23 too.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video, Dominic! I've got to leave those mistakes in there.... it's real life! Hopefully a few people learnt something from them 😂 - Good luck with your build!
I have the same clamp on my seatpost, I found out that the bolt was getting loose with the vibration and reducing the torque, letting the seatpost to drop. I applied some Loctite thread locker and it worked great. I also changed the top steerer cap with a flat one to have a better compression for the bearings to avoid touching the plug underneath. Well done on the build process!
Thanks for the information. I'll chuck a bit of thread locker on mine to make sure that it doesn't wiggle loose. I've seen people change to various different compression plugs. I need to get a longer one anyway so I'll take note on the top cap size.
also using fibre grip grease also help
Great video again Jourdain! I absolutely love how you make mistakes and leave them in the video. We are human after all! Small tip: never clamp a workshopstand at the top tube. Instead install the seatpost first, and use that as your clamping point. The toptube is way to thin to support the weight.
I'm glad you enjoyed the video! I wanted this to be a true representation of a home build so the mistakes were staying in! Thanks for the tip on the top tube clamping 👍🏽
Or if you want to use the stand as you did, just clamp with a very minimum pressure, just to avoid a bike fall
Best to avoid it altogether, can't speak for this bikes structure specifically, but my lightest ever bike (I'm a size 58 roughly depending on geometry, so large/xl bikes), was an Easton Scandium aluminum frame with carbon stays and fork... that frame was swaged, and in the main central section of the top tube, was 0.4mm thick (yes, less than 1/2mm).... that isn't a lot thicker than a soda can (0.2mm), so you can imagine not just the clamping pressure, but any leverage (tightening bolts on something, leaning slightly on the frame to reach something, etc) while it's fixed in a clamp, could EASILY buckle the aluminum (or in this case, crack the carbon if it's also relatively thin)... (that bike actually eventually broke at the seatstay/chainstay/dropout interface, one of the thickest parts of the bike through a roughly 1cm thick section, go figure, likely welding stresses...)
Top tube is actually intended as a chord (some creative bikes actually use a cable instead of a tube, as an example), to resist the headtube and seattube being pulled apart, so it isn't by design a weight-bearing or pressure bearing design, while certainly made for SOME tolerance of pressures from the real-world, it's not robust (the downtube is generally the robust part of a frame). Just being in the habit to avoid clamping it is best at all times...
One thing I HAVE done, is with an open clamp, I've "rested" the bike across the lower clamp face... any pressure then just causes it to sway (and makes me aware of that input pressure happening), but avoids any pressure spots of significance and no risk of crushing it. Just my thoughts on it.@@projectcycling
@@ChrisTexanIf the Scandium Aluminum frame had carbon seat stays and chain stays , the rear dropout junction would have been bonded with a resin or high strength adhesive . Especially if the dropouts are aluminium alloy which some of these types of frames were like Kinesis ones . Therfore , there would have been inconsistensies or irregularities at that dropout to carbon interface point .
My Falath frame has been sitting partially-assembled for the last week while waiting on the Jagwire gear/brake housings. Your video came at the perfect time since I am about to make every possible mistake known to man as I assemble it! And of course you reminded me that I forgot to put the grease on my crankset, so I guess its time to do that! Thanks for the video, I'll be watching it on repeat next week as I stumble my way through completing the build!
Great stuff. Definitely tell us how it rides. Recommend riding it back to back on a cornering course with a buddy that has a legit bike. That's what I did after I built up a Trifox X18 with ultegra/105 parts. A buddy and I rode his tarmac SL6, my BMC roadmachine and my trifox X18, and another buddies Yoeleo R12. The difference was 100% noticeable. I promptly put the Trifox up for sale and bought a used SL6 (only for marginally more than what I spend on building up the Trifox). When you ride bikes back to back, that is when the differences really come shining thru.
I thought, }I’m not going to sit thru 32mins of bike build.”, but I did. And it was entertaining and educational. Edutainment. I’ll be back for more.
Watching this build and I’ve never been happier to ride a mechanical shifting, externally routed, rim brake bike. I’ll refer to this someday if I ever go to the dark side (internally routed, hydro disc), very informative.
or buy it from a local bike shop and they will get it all setup for you!
I always align the psi markings with the valve stem.
Nice job. As an old mechanic from the days before carbon, these new bikes are exponentially more complex. I've made my number of mistakes on builds. That which does not make you stop riding, makes you a better mechanic.
The are getting more and more complex... there is beauty in the old simplicity though!
Dentistry, watch making and gardening tools. You now have all you need to start one hell of business! Great vid though. It feels very satisfying building a bike.
You defiantly have what it takes to make a great UA-cam channel. Your ease and comical satire bring interest to your channel... Thanks.
I appreciate that! Glad you enjoyed the video
Thank you for including the mistakes to help others avoid similar, its a great how to build a road bike DIY video :) cheers for your sense of humor and funny content added to the video :)
I now appreciate in part, why some low volume custom bicycle builds are so expensive
Shimano and other big brands recommend no grease on center lock threads. Incase of heat, it can melt onto the rotor and give issues. Also, the splines are tight enough and won’t likely give you issues when removing in the future
Thanks for the tip.. I'll keep that in mind for the future. 👌🏼
the pleasure of assembling (or doing anything I would say) your own bike is probably underestimated - I love it so much! Super nice video - thx
Couldn't agree more!
Seeing you fight with cable routing makes me appreciate SRAM wireless even more lol.
I know... I thought the exact same. If I was to go wireless then Sram would be my choice for the wireless feature.
these internal routed cable are really a blessing for bike mechanics. i will go partly external until i can afford a sram axs
Setting up limit screws on rear derailleur is actually better with chain on.
- Have the chain on the smallest cog on the rear and biggest on the front.
- Set the High limit screw so the chain barely isn't touching the second smallest cog.
- Bring up the tension (not too much, just so it isn't completely sloppy) on the shifter cable by hand and screw it tothe derailleur and then loosen the high limit screw slightly. It will remove the rest of the slop and will leave you with little to none derailleur adjustment, while also widening the gap between the 2 smallest cogs ever so slightly.
- Shift through the gears, besidest the biggest one until they work mostly perfectly and then carefully shift on the biggest cog to adjust the low limit screw
- Adjust the low limit screw with chain on the small cog at the front and shift through all the gears again, in all possible combinations
- You are set up
My Brother! You’re as good as they get, luv the demonstration well done
I appreciate your comment! Glad you enjoyed 👍🏽
I thoroughly enjoyed the detachments for jokes and even breaks for drawing time! top marks your investment payed off looks wicked fun to ride. Thanks so much for sharing !
Pro tip when you cut the cable housing slip an old used length of cable in the hole before you cut, the cable will help keep the housing from collapsing.
Great tip, I'll use that on the next build!
I've also done it this way for years. Hard to watch this ;).
Three things on my build that my bike shop had an issue with. Same bike frame. Same groupset. Went with the br005 hydro mech brakes.
1. Compressionless housing wouldn’t work for the front brake as there was some carbon excess at the head tube where when you would turn the bar it would bind the front brake cable housing and create tension thus pulling on the brake cable. No bueno. Had to end up going with a regular cable housing since the slight difference in size allowed it to pass by the excess carbon without binding. These bikes are really best designed for hydraulic or electronic systems.
2. The way the cables were routed through the bars (same way you originally had it) didn’t allow very much room to actually screw in the included “out front mount” for the gps computer. Was only able to get one screw in and it’s fine, but I’m very particular with things and this bugged me a bit.
3. Something my lbs also noticed which might cause issues with mechanical brakes on this particular bike, is that the hole entrance on my fork was set towards the rear vs the front like on most branded bikes. The routing exit to the brake caliper was set towards the front, which caused a bind naturally on top of the excess carbon buildup. It basically just created an unnecessary bend that is never an issue with most branded bikes.
As far as the ride of the bike, it’s freaking amazing. It’s so comfortable and feels super nimble/fast when you need it to be. It’s like 40mm lower on the head tube than the bike I used to ride, and it feels more comfortable on longer rides. If you can get past the little buggy issues, and know you’re getting an aero race type bike for much less than bike shop prices, it’s amazing value for that. If you’re looking for perfect, even at this cost, this may not be for you.
For compressionless brake housing, it is best to dremel or file the cut end down so it’s perfectly flat and 90deg cut. Takes out alot of play in the system for high load braking.
Good job!!!! Not sure i could live with that chimney though..
You and me both! It's been chopped off... video coming this weekend 👍🏽
This video is a great ad for wireless shifting.
To fit cable’s hosings into the frame usually i use an old wheel spike,i cut it 10cm long +- and i fit it into the giude and the new hosing then I push it with the new sheet using the guide just to direct it outside without pulling
I just completed my Velobuild bike. First time for me and it was great. For the cables I used a magnetic router. It’s was invaluable. Nothing was pre routed in the bike though.
little tip with centrelock breaks. dont grease the spline for brakes as central frugle force will push it out onto the break pads
I purchased one of these Elves Falath pro rim brake frames custom made paint scheme and built and put it together in a couple of hours. Took it for a test ride and didnt want to come home and ended up doing a 100k ride and was so impressed i almost bought the company LOL, great Chinese maunfacturer on these uci approved frame. Highly recommended bike frame and couldnt find a fault in the bike after 3 months.
Glad you had a good experience! Always nice when a bike gives you that feeling 👌🏼
Fantastic video.
I now know I have neither the smarts nor the patience to build a modern bike.
The weedwacker cable is so smart. I struggled for hours to get cables through my handlers.
It defiantly made things much easier!!
21:34 Lol, it sounded like instead of a cable, you've just cut the spoke. 🤣
Great video.
31:15 High usually refers to the smallest cog, low for the biggest one.
2 years ago I made my actually road bike, vb-r-086D with sensah empire 11v, and you reminded me those moments hahaha
haha... it's all a learning curve! How is the bike after 2 years?
Top tip. I run GP5000s with Vittoria latex tubes and they are great. Much lighter and better performance. Don’t believe what people say about latex tubes being fragile and easily punctured. As long as you install them carefully and use talc they are more robust to punctures than butyl IMHO.
Thanks for the tip! I've meaning meaning to give them a try... I'll go for it when I get at some point.
as someone who's routed his own integrated aliexpress bars, i understand your pain
You really have a knack mate. Very fine presentations in all four I’ve watched on this CF investigation series of yours…watched in a row. I never do that! Keep on. I learned a lot and you practice a very crucial guideline that keeps my interest always…well, generally anyway: Honesty! New subscriber here. Thank you for your good work.
If you watch Gee Milner do the stem (I don’t like how he does it), he cuts the stem flush with the steerer, and yes that plug may stick up but when he puts the tiny spacer on top you can see it moves around freely and is not riding over the plug diameter, and the only thing that really holds it there in place is the ridge under the top cap.
Nice video. About the fork cutting point, it depends also by the top cap type. The one you're using it's a little bulky and can interfere with the compression plug so you correctly cut some mm more. If you have a completely flat top cap you can be less conservative
Those are close quartered cable bends in the handlebar/stem to steering tube do look tough to make. You did good. The results exceed the soon forgotten frustration. I've no issues with "Jagwire" cable and housing after a year. The bike looks fantastic!! Good how-to series. Hope it's a blast to ride.
You are correct... I haven't thought about those tight bends fro a while 😂 - I'm glad the jagwire cables have been good for you, hopefully it's the same story for me as well.
@@JourdainColeman It was certainly worth your effort as the bike looks great without the housing showing. Nice thing about the "Jagwire" is having leftover housing. I hope you get a break in the weather for a test ride on the street. I watched my bike mechanic replace the bottom bracket bearing on my Mt bike the other day. It was a learning experience for me, but he struggled a bit getting the new one centered. Keep the rubber side down.
When I first get any tire for later use, I take a silver or white highlighter marker and run it over top of the directional arrow so it can be seen much easier later.
Another good tip... testing my eyes trying to find a tiny arrow. 👀
Elves has left the building!
that's something to be proud of and a major achievement
I have the same frame with 105 groupset, i love this bike
This was too funny. I found you on TikTok and I’m gonna binge watch now 😂
I finally built mine up this week with Ultegra. Absolutely brilliant. I prefer it to my F12 DOGMA. - I just ordered a 2nd one to set up a frame for racing.
Great to hear! Did you order the pro or the 2023 Evo?
Must've taken you hours (I'm talking about the editing 👀). Loved the comical additions 🤣. It's great to see your hard work and persistence finally paying off with lots of views already. Looking forward to the next video 👌🙏
Hey Scott... it probably took me longer to edit and create the final video that it did to build the bike 😂 - A few people have commented on the editing so it makes it all worth it! The channel is growing at the moment which is great to see, it makes everything a little more motivating! Thanks for supporting the channel for a long time, you have been a rider from the early days 👍🏽
at 31:10 low limit is for the biggest sprocket of cassette and H one is for smallest ;)
Very good build, Definetly wear a mask, lightly wet anything carbon that your going to cut, also dont use your bare hands for grease! the oils will cause corrosion to go much faster.
Awsome video! Thanks for showing why I never should try to build a bike
Men this is like a dream bike of our people here in the ph
The bike chain splitter already has the metal hook to hold the chain while putting the quick link. It can be seen in your video.
If you don't have a carbon cutting guide use a pipe cutting tool. Work slow applying just enough pressure to cut a single layer at a time. It will take some time but if done correctly no need for a vice or filing when done.
great video bro! the bit about the seatpost and forgetting the rubber cover, omg, the same order of events happened to me too LOL!
haha... I guess it's easily done! 😂
Well done Jourdain 👏🏾that looks really hard. What an amazing video. I really love the bike, it looks beautiful.
Thanks man! I'm glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks for supporting me from early on in my journey! I don't forget those things. I hope you have had a good weekend and safe riding.
@@JourdainColeman my pleasure! You too. Take care.
6:54 the compression block must always be completely recessed in the stem, and the small spacer should also have been moved downwards
Im still waiting for my carbon frame to come from China this will be a nice video to look back on when it comes.
Glad the video was helpful!
That was pretty freaking awesome, great video my dude... I usually skip through parts of bike build videos, but you made this very interesting and entertaining, 👍🏽👍🏽...
Glad you enjoyed! 👍🏽
hi this bikes normally make some funny cable rubbing so the use of inner cable damper to eliminate any cable knocks
Yes, foam is normally added to the cable through the frame to prevent knocking. I didn't have any unfortunately 🙃
Happy owner of classic steel road bike in me became happier after understanding what kind of shite I have no necessity to deal with.
I'm really glad I subscribed to this channel: really interesting stuff. To throw in my two cents' worth, when you're messing with the brake discs, be sure not to get grease or oil on them or you'll contaminate the brake pads. After working with them I usually clean them off with a clean rag and rubbing alcohol just to be sure.
Holding the torque wrench close to its clicking pivot point results in a higher torque load, your hanger 8Nm probably actually got 10-12Nm
Thanks for the comment... I'll double check the bolts 👍🏽
you build this huge chimney to have the option for more stack later?
usually you just cut 4mm under the stem and insert the plug..
it is much more important that the plug covers the whole clamping area of the stem.
it seemed a bit short now with the chimney, judging from the video picture.
Its end already 😆, well one of my best enjoyable video of bike build. Now i realized, i needed to be like you how you do it precisely not to make so many mistakes. Well in $2000 you've got a very decent carbon bike.(also my dream build 😁)
(Feels like me sometimes 30 mins on scratching my head with my bike maintenance and build 🤣)
Hey! Good to hear the video was helpful for you 👌🏼 - It's good to show the mistakes so other people can learn form what i do wrong. Overall the bike turned out great
Also you can make bike lighter using ridenow tpu tubes and lighter cassette half-steel-half-alu.
A highly educational and at the same time entertaining build video, loved it! Thank you very much for the time and effort you put in! :)
I always put the seat post on first to clamp on
Brilliant video Jourdain, hope all is good
Cheers man! I'm all good thanks! I hope you are all good too?
I think there's a bit too much grease being used in the BB and Crank install. That'll attract grit. It may repel water, I suppose. Perhaps a small amount of anti seize on the crank arm inner, non drive and the same on the crank spindle. The part that moves and is already greased is the sealed bearings in the BB. So the crankset shouldn't need any grease, just some sparing placed anti seize.
Same with the centre lock disc rotors. The contact points there should have some small amount of anti seize.
Great building, did all those mistakes myself. Kept on laughing 😅. Got the Falath rim brake version, enjoying it so far. Thanks for the video.
haha... It seems I'm not alone! Glad you are enjoying your Falath 👌🏼
Amazing video that detailed every move to build a bike❤❤
Gad you enjoyed!
I’m not a mechanic. I’m a lawyer. But I enjoy clumsily wrenching and building bikes for myself and others. I understand the reasoning behind internal routing - it’s marginally more aero and less cluttered. But one begins to wonder about form vs. function. This extreme routing cannot help but add friction to the system with twists and turns. Is it all worth it?
I suppose wireless electronic systems solve much of the issue, but at what cost?
The weed whacker trick? That’s slick. I’ll remember that.
Sheesh that's a heavy bike. My steel fixed commuter is about 7.5kg right now.
Excellent presenter. Very entertaining and well executed.
Glad you enjoyed it 👌🏼
Heres a question tho, can you ever so slightly hear the cables as you turn... its not like resistance, but you definitely know theyre in the headset.
This was honestly just a phenomenal video. Well done. Everyone wants to throw in your 2 cents. Mate you did great mistakes and all. Love the build and the final product
Great video with lots of really good tips. FYI though, where you bend the wire to hold the chain together, I've got that same chain breaker tool, if you look at the main handle there's a hooked wire there just for this. Perfect 3rd hand for breaking/linking chains.
Would you look at that!! I had no idea... I'll give that a try in future builds 👍🏼
I beautiful build! I hope the frame holds up since I heard conflicting data on them. The color is great! I learned a lot from this video, so thanks for this!
I hope so too! Glad you enjoyed the video
Thanks for the detailed procedure!
Fantastic video, well done on the build and honesty of how fiddly it is. Bike looks great! With cable inners get a set of Bike Inner Cable Wire Puller Pliers, they really are more effective and less aggressive than pliers.
Glad you enjoyed the video. I'll look for some cable pliers. Do you have a set you would recommend?
@@JourdainColeman just any off Amazon. Cheap and cheerful.
Good video but I will always put foam tubing around any outer cable, gears and rear brake in your case, that goes through the frame.
Nothing worse than a cable rattling around in the frame.
Think you installed the split link the wrong way as well. Not all of them have a directional arrow but I tend to follow the shimano way. This has the fixed pin on the outer plate nearest the rear derailleur when the chain is below the chainstay.
Also, loads easier to set up the front derailleur without the chain on. With most derailleurs you can screw in the lower limit screws enough to help you with setting it parallel to the outer chainring and 2mm above the outer teeth.
Random observation - your watch references and general edits, I’m getting The mad watch collector flashbacks.
I just checked him out 😂
using BXT frame since 2019
still riding =)
I have this falath version. Do you have tutorial how to open the seat/saddle mounting? It's hard to open it when I need to change the saddle
Isnt the compression cap supposed to press against the inside of the stem, not the spacer?
Really enjoyed this video. Nice to watch, learned a lot ,thanks. After all your hard work, i hope the bike performs well.👌
Glad you enjoyed
This is extremely educational for me Jourdain since i plan to build my own bike sometime in the future. I really appreciate your effort. One last thing, is there any other way to avoid the chimeny on top of your nice looking aero bars?
just cut the steerer tube more
@@ivan-dx9fo what about the compression plug
As @ivan suggested you can cut the steerer tube lower to your desired length. I left mine high in case I needed to raise the bars after my bike fit. As for the compression plug, I'm going to buy a long one that will cover the stem and then replace the one that I have.
@@JourdainColeman i see, i see. Now i get what he meant. Thank you once again for the video Jourdain.
@@RixnoAsteres Mine, i cut the tube more about 0.4cm under the stem level. My normal plug measure at 4.5cm fit just fine. If you affraid 4.5 not enough maybe just get 6cm would be better.
I refuse your tyre method but as I aim to line the tyre pressure range with valve, issue when I use tubular though
thank you very much for this video! Especially because this will be an almoust 1:1 copy guide for me next summer, when my elves frame bike will be build. Hopefully with some LTWOO hydraulic brakes.
Awesome! Glad the video was helpful! 👍🏽 Good luck with your build
Great content, I was expecting for this build! And nice frame btw.
Glad you enjoyed it
So Jourdain, the one thing I didnt quite get, was why have you left a bit of the fork steerer pertruding? Is that to do with having a short compression plug?
Hi Harry, that was because I was going for a bike fit and I needed to have some flexibility to raise the stem if needed.
If I needed to raise the stem, I could swap the spacer so it was under the stem which would raise the bars. It's not the best way to do it but at the time I had to give myself some wriggle room. I hope that helps 👍🏽
Excellent series 👏🏾
Mechanical disc brakes are the soul-patch of bicycles.
OMG I hope all this cable hiding madness makes you happy, looks a PIA
Really well done video, very entertaining and informative! Love your bike! everything look very nice! the only thing I don't like about your bike is the plug/adapter above the stem! look bulky and cheap with the extra bit sticking up!
Glad you enjoyed the video! I was tempted to chop the little chimney down... I'll live with it for now hahah. Thanks for watching and commenting 👍🏽