The R1000 in my garage will be budget built soon. I plan to change seat post, stem, handlebars, wheels to carbon but will most likely have some aluminum components. Has ultegra gears/brakes and a TRIPLE chainring that will become a double with an older dura ace crankset that I’m lucky to have. Currently weighs 7.88kg (17.06lbs) with out pedals. *excited to see how your bike turns out and how much weight you save.
all the time, me and my dad love to find old bikes both road and mountain and get them for cheap then restore and possibly modify them for cheap before either using them ourselves or selling them to someone who might need a decent cheap starter bike.
My younger brother was a natural mechanic so he did them all for me. He was one of the original 'bmx' riders he built one in the '70s. So our bikes seemed to be always upgraded. Come to think of it, slow upgrades are a form of bike building.
Enjoying this more than most of the other GCN videos ... but don’t know why ! I’d probably draw the line at paint removal as you may want to sell the bike one day. I assume you’re cycling in just a G-string as that lycra can weigh a few grams.
Same, I found some of the content has lost the audience with ridiculous budgets and unattainable bikes for most. This I enjoyed myself, and I'm looking forward to this being complete.
mate don't destroy the bike paint just because of few grams, instead you can purchase a used carbon fork and save 100-200grams easily for around 50 pounds also you removed bottle cage and screws which are in total like what - 40-50grams? for what?
The Discovery channel livery is too nice to destroy. This is turning into one of those videos where some youtuber takes a classic in need of some TLC and destroys it by turning it into some one off project. When it's done, it will be worth a tenth of what it cost to build.
My budget lightwieght build, few years ago, with a 2007 Canyon Ultimate AL8 as the base, got to under 6.6kg with 10 speed SRAM Red, Ciamillo Zero Gravity brakes and a 300AUD secondhand lightweight carbon tubular 10 speed specific wheel set with tyres. All up about 1500AUD aka 880GBP. A couple years later with sensible alloy bars that did not flex when I was sprinting and a clincher wheel set rolled up a crit, a friend had a new bike, another friend decide we should have a weigh off and the old alloy frame bike should be included with all the modern carbon fibre disc brake bikes. Surprised everybody it was the lightest, then they realised I had a full bidon in the cage ;-)
These build/rebuild videos are really informative. Love these types of series. Huge fan of Alex on these types of videos. Can't wait to see the end result. Wonder if there is a GCN boneyard that has some items that could be scrounged 🤔
I love all the build series that GCN do. Be great to actually see how much the paint weighs? Some have said a factory finish can be 300g.......rubbish, I'd say 100g.......a poll perhaps??
What a lovely series you’ve developed here . Can’t wait as I’m a novice looking to build my own. I’ve seen a lot of Ali express builds and would like to do something similar
if you want a really good budget groupset, mix sensah with sram. cheap shifters with really good shifting (tho i mixed mine with shimano and it works fine)
I turned my old aluminum road bike into a budget climbing bike. Stripped the paint, chopped the drops, went 1x, budget carbon parts. Works pretty good.
Don't trash the paint! You are getting good at wrecking bikes for sure! Just take a dump before you race. That will save more weight than removing that (very nice) paint.
Lightweight Ti skewers save up to 100g for $15 Lightweight SL cassette, save up to 150g for $50 Lightweight saddle, save up to 250g for $30 Lightweight tubes, save up to 150g for $50 (I pick rolling resistance over weight savings here, latex Vittoria tubes for 75g instead of Tubolito) Lightweight cages which may come with Lightweight bolts, 18g + 2x1g bolts per.
Ditch the left shifter, and replace it with an old SLR brake lever, like lance used to do. Easy and cheap way to save weight. Also, cut the seatpost so that it is the minimum length you meed for your saddle height. Also, cut off the drops from he handlebars. Also, remove the left shift cable stop from the downtube.
Yep - Rebuilt and repainted my well loved Trek 5900 and got the weight down to sub 16lbs and updated all parts using used components. Results are amazing!
REMOVE THE REAR BRAKES AND LEFT BRIFTER, THEN CONNECT THE FRONT BRAKES TO THE RIGHT BRIFTER LIKE A PROPER BRITISH BIKE. You don't need brakes on a climb. Then climb in the drops like Marco Pantani or on the tops. 🙂
Tip on that ... when you get one bolt out leaving only the stuck one .... you can then wiggle it with a set of pliers to break the other one free ... friends warped brake rotor on his bike had a stuck bolt and as I was replacing with new ones got the others all out and rocked the rotor and it let go then out it came =) ... as who wants to drill these things out 'not I' ... and I hope you do a smoking good job on the paint stripping but honestly the thing looks so nice -_-
What a fun idea. The only build I've gone too crazy on was my kids 24" bike to get it around 16lbs from 32 lbs. Stripping the paint saved around 200g and the brushed aluminum look is awesome!
I built my Poseidon FX Tracklocross, for under 1000, I haven’t actually added everything up, but a rough estimate and some parts ended up on it that weren’t intended for it and some intended parts ended up set aside for a future project, but rough estimate US$850-900. Of course I saved a ton of money not needing a group set, and the Poseidon frame is an amazing deal, brand new, delivered it was $249, handmade in California, worth the money and then some.
If it's only for one hill climb you could remove the brakes. Who needs them going up? Or at least grid the brake pads to the minimal. Don't strip the paint. If you go that route you might as well grind the welds off. Or cut the tubes reduce the thickness of them and re-weld it. You could even reduce the framesize, but all of those things are really stupid. No one would do this to their own bike.
I have something similar made from parts and a groupset from a bygone era. It’s a Fuji Roubaix rim brake with 1x SRAM Force and some nice Mavic carbon wheels (pretty narrow by today’s standards). It’s just over 7kg with heavy-ish bars, stem, etc. Fun little project and I love the ride character of the frame.
RideNow inner tubes (36g) and they work a treat, if not on tubs. Cut the seat pin. Drill and flute everything, inc the frame circa 1970's TT steel framesets of Ken Bird, that whistled is the wind, old Clement no1's if you can find some that haven't rotted.
Big fan of GCN, can't believe it, that's identical to my cherished Trek bike that's been all over the Alps. Great tips for making it lighter for the next trip up Pico Veleta, although I'm keeping the paint on and eat one less roast potato on Sunday :-)
I’ve got the Trek 1000 version of this Discovery Channel edition bike. 2007. It was my first bike and I love it. I think this has inspired me to get it out and fix it up.
Just built up a giant tcr slr that’s at 6.9kg with a heavy (1800g) set of wheels. Stripping paint did take 148g off the frame which I then had cerakoted and added back just 19g.
A GCN vid recently mentioned that 1KG is a negligible amount of weight even on a climb, and is worth just around 5 watts. So no need for a super light bike when you can go cheaper with "heavier" components.
yes more budget builds like this. I think most people work to a lower budget than GCN uses. Its really nice to see something withn mere mortals realistic price range. I ride with plenty of people who are embarressed to ride with anything but the latest groupet. Also have listened to many snobs who laugh at others for wearing sunglasses incorrectly etc... Hopefully it just shows how negative they are personally and not a perception they project of cylists in general. Personally I like the original paint job but... I do kind of like the MAD MAX look the bike now has. Cool! more budget stuff would be good.
I have a 1987 Cannondale SR400 with all 105 parts that I really like. I've been wondering, would upgrading it with a new modern Shimano 9 speed Sora group set (including STI shifters), new aluminum Shimano Tiagra wheels, and new dual pivot 105 brakes be worse off than buying a entry level Road Bike like a Cannondale CAAD Optimo or Specialized Allez Sport? The frame has no cracks or anything and I've been using it for years mostly without issue, but the gearing sucks for hills and everything is, well you know, like 35 years old. Afaik you can upgrade old Cannondales to modern group sets, even though the rear wheel spacing is like 127.5mm vs 130mm. This seems like a really good bang for my buck, it'd cost about $450-650 to do. I've also considered a Chinese carbon frame from someone like Velobuild.
When you said that you were going to upgrade this bike, I didn't think you were going to cut the number of gears in half. Going this way, remove one brake. You won't need it on the climb :) You can save weight on cheap by changing tyres and tubes to lighter ones. Good bang for the buck. Jagwire or Aligator cables save a lot of weight on "cheapish". Bar tape you can get a super light one, make your own, or do not use it at all. You can lose 50g for £20 on QR skewers. Then there are smaller gains like alloy hardware (only where it is safe to use it), cutting down the seatpost tube and much more. I like my bike light, so I do a lot of this type of "conversions". Now managed to source from eBay Cannondale Six13 from 2004 with full Dura-Ace 780 groupset. (like one in this video I believe) for £230!!! Bargain. The whole thing with pedals and bottle cage weighs 7.6kg. That means it's gonna end up below 7kg by the time I finish with it and the total cost will be around £500. Interesting video. I'm sure there are many more "Budget Weigh Weenies" out there.
@@Bear-Jew To be fair though I know a few hill climbers and when it comes to brakes "working" is open to interpretation some cut the blocks in half and sand them right down the wear line and there are calipers out there that are super light but wouldn't stop a toddler on a tricycle. Basically if whats left of the blocks touch the rim when you pull on whats left of the levers you're good to go LOL. Your suggestion of one normal fully functioning brake would ironically be much safer and lighter overall in a lot of cases. But hill climbers are a bit unhinged anyway 🤣
Did this a few years back. Got a Domane ALR for 950. Sold the hydraulic group and wheels. Bought a set of used prime carbon wheels and a 10sp tiagra mech group and trp brakes. There’s some luck involved but also patience and constant research.
A Trek Madone with Shimano Dura-Ace 7800 was a cutting edge €5000 bike in 2003, so it's not surprising that even with heavy finishing kit and wheels it still weighs less than eight kilos. I know because one of my cycling pals who was a huge Lance fan and bought one with his own money and he was quite miffed because he still got dropped on the evening club run. Apparently the five grand price tag didn't include the Lance legs...Or the high octane performance enhancing drugs all the US postal team were juiced to the eyeballs on... It's still a seriously cool bike...
it was not a super lite climbing bike, but I chopped off nearly 10 lbs on an old hybrid I owned by replacing the suspension fork with a standard fork, new wheels and tires, going 1x and a 12-25 rear cassette as I live in a very flat area, putting on carbon bars and seat post and replacing the massively heavy saddle. The fork alone was almost 6 lbs. The bike was right at 30 lbs when I started, ended up at 20.25 lbs when I was done. Rode very nice after, used it as a commuter and sold it a couple of yrs ago as I no longer needed it.
As an owner of an older Trek Madone, I was hoping your built wouldn't involve any permanent or disfiguring changes to the bike. Felt a bit disappointed when I head Alex say he would remove all the paint and go down to bare carbon. Unfortunately, I'm sure the damage is already done.
It seems that, for beginners, functionality, durability, and ease of maintenance are far more important to keep this person in the sport. If this involves forgoing a bike with cheap disc brakes, so be it.
Going all uphill, get a pair of fixed gear wheels and take the rear brake, rder, and derailleur hanger off. You can be even more ballsy and just take both brakes off and turn it into a true uphill fixed gear
CAAD 10 frame SRAM RED 10s groupset Jetfly SL Wheels Cane creek EE Copy version brakes Carbon power saddle copy Deda alanera copy integ dropbar This build got me well under 7kg Most of these parts i bought used
If you want cheap a lightweight group, go Sensah Empire. I think the crank should be left alone, because the Dura ace is pretty light even the old model. I dunno where else to save a lot of weight.
Drop the front mech or if you’re going to keep it, do ‘a lance’ and put on a traditional gear lever on the down tube and get rid of the rear sti unit with a simple brake only lever
Can you find a brake only lever for the front without going to an old one (so the both feel the same), or strip out the shifting innards from the existing lever.
I am probably wrong but this bike reminds me so much of one of the bikes Lance Armstrong was riding back in the day. The paint job, geometry, and everything about it. It is cool to think you might have had something very unique :D Not so good to think that then you removed the paint :D
Hey! How about dropping the final chain drive and going to a belt drive, like on the Cube Editor bicycle?! Saves weight but will cost just a little bit more. But dirty the hill climb.... It's secret weapon time, RIGHT!
Ah rim brake !!! For the ROAD, DISCS FOR DIRT. 2005 AERO MADONE 5.2 120 OCLV CARBON. IF THIS WERE THE 5.9 110 GRAM VERSION IT WOULD BE LIGHTER LOVE IT. ONLY THING I DID NOT LIKE WAS STRIPPING THE DISCOVERY PAINT JOB . THAT HURT.
Used carbon bars with the drops cut Remove both brakes, or at least the rear one, and the brake lever you won't be using Cut the carbon seatpost the shortest you can Grab a dremel and punch holes on the remaining brake lever and the top part of the saddle Used carbon pedals Used carbon forks
I once put my bike on a diet. It started out with 9,5 kg and i landed on 8 kg, so 1,5 kg and it cost me about 1500. Change pretty much everything but the frame and fork. I even used aluminium and titanium bolts. But it was a fun build.
Change your STI for the front shifter to a normal brake lever. Also cut off the lower part of you handel bars. Ah, rimends me of the good old times of weight safing :)
I feel that my emotions are misplaced, but cannot get over the fact that my 2022 BMC Roadmachine (58cm) weighs like nearly 9kg! I mean it doesn’t cause too many issues because I live in a complete flat city but on the rare occasion I do find an acceptable climb, the extra weight compared to my previous bike is noticeable! Other than knocking 140 grams off the seat, I don’t think I can make anymore “budget” gains. Anyways, with reference to the video, stripping paint, while ruining the look, can save like 300 grams, which I can personally attest to, though I’d rather not describe the whole process because the new paint job was so bad that I didn’t even rebuild it and just bought a new frame and transferred the parts!!
Hey! How about dropping the final chain drive and going to a belt drive?! Saves weight but will cost just a little bit more. But dirty the hill climb.... It's secret weapon time, RIGHT!
don't remove the paint. just cut the drops off the handlebars and save about 100 times more weight! remove the internals from the front shifter too if you're going x1
Have you ever done your own budget bike build?
Planing to re build an old tt bike for less than 200 euro’s
The R1000 in my garage will be budget built soon. I plan to change seat post, stem, handlebars, wheels to carbon but will most likely have some aluminum components. Has ultegra gears/brakes and a TRIPLE chainring that will become a double with an older dura ace crankset that I’m lucky to have. Currently weighs 7.88kg (17.06lbs) with out pedals.
*excited to see how your bike turns out and how much weight you save.
all the time, me and my dad love to find old bikes both road and mountain and get them for cheap then restore and possibly modify them for cheap before either using them ourselves or selling them to someone who might need a decent cheap starter bike.
All my bikes are budget builds and not by choice....
My younger brother was a natural mechanic so he did them all for me. He was one of the original 'bmx' riders he built one in the '70s. So our bikes seemed to be always upgraded. Come to think of it, slow upgrades are a form of bike building.
Personally I wouldn't ruin the paint. Its a good looking classic. The tiny bit of savings can be had elsewhere! Or put out an extra watt or 2.
Totally agree.
it would be a pity to remove the paint.😟
agreed, it would be a shame
Agree as well. Few extra grams for looks are worth it.
Keep the paint!!!
Oh no! Please remain this beautiful racing paintjob!
Stealthy no paint also looks great but I'm boring of them these days.
If only Alex had read these comment's _before_ stripping all the paint off! 🤦
It really feels like you guys listened to the audience after the last survey. more budget/maintenance/build videos
Yes, thanks to everyone who responded!
Dont destroy that beautiful paintjob mate, thats the point of that bike! Cheers
Enjoying this more than most of the other GCN videos ... but don’t know why ! I’d probably draw the line at paint removal as you may want to sell the bike one day. I assume you’re cycling in just a G-string as that lycra can weigh a few grams.
It’s way less scripted and forced comedy, quite enjoyable
Si might give some good advices here
Same, I found some of the content has lost the audience with ridiculous budgets and unattainable bikes for most. This I enjoyed myself, and I'm looking forward to this being complete.
We're going to veto the g-string... no one wants to see that!! 😂🙈
@@gcntech Have you *met* the internet?
mate don't destroy the bike paint just because of few grams, instead you can purchase a used carbon fork and save 100-200grams easily for around 50 pounds
also you removed bottle cage and screws which are in total like what - 40-50grams? for what?
Yeah but stripping the bike paint is way more fun
50 grams is a good saving
Agree! Keep the nice paint job
The whole point of this ep, is removing as much weight as possible, within the budget; which part of that, don’t you understand?
The Discovery channel livery is too nice to destroy. This is turning into one of those videos where some youtuber takes a classic in need of some TLC and destroys it by turning it into some one off project. When it's done, it will be worth a tenth of what it cost to build.
Please leave the paint in the bike
It looks amazing the way it is
My budget lightwieght build, few years ago, with a 2007 Canyon Ultimate AL8 as the base, got to under 6.6kg with 10 speed SRAM Red, Ciamillo Zero Gravity brakes and a 300AUD secondhand lightweight carbon tubular 10 speed specific wheel set with tyres. All up about 1500AUD aka 880GBP. A couple years later with sensible alloy bars that did not flex when I was sprinting and a clincher wheel set rolled up a crit, a friend had a new bike, another friend decide we should have a weigh off and the old alloy frame bike should be included with all the modern carbon fibre disc brake bikes. Surprised everybody it was the lightest, then they realised I had a full bidon in the cage ;-)
Nice Nick!
These build/rebuild videos are really informative. Love these types of series. Huge fan of Alex on these types of videos. Can't wait to see the end result. Wonder if there is a GCN boneyard that has some items that could be scrounged 🤔
I hope you'll weight the frame before and after sanding the paint off :)
iLOVED this vid! I can hardly wait to see the tyre/rim upgrades. I so need to do that to my steed. Thanks Alex!
I love all the build series that GCN do.
Be great to actually see how much the paint weighs? Some have said a factory finish can be 300g.......rubbish, I'd say 100g.......a poll perhaps??
A tip if you round out an allen bolt.
Take a torx bit and hammer it in, you can then usually remove the bolt with ease :)
What a lovely series you’ve developed here . Can’t wait as I’m a novice looking to build my own. I’ve seen a lot of Ali express builds and would like to do something similar
elite wheels or something and a carbon sensah groupset. (or l twoo)
if you want a really good budget groupset, mix sensah with sram. cheap shifters with really good shifting (tho i mixed mine with shimano and it works fine)
To help your budget, sell all the bits you don't need.
You only need 1 kidney...
@@Skaughtto And that will save you another 120-150 g.
@@Skaughtto 😂😂😂😂
That's exactly what I did on my project! And saved some 400€ ;)
@@unairamos74 I hope you're replying to Philip and not Skaughtto.
I turned my old aluminum road bike into a budget climbing bike. Stripped the paint, chopped the drops, went 1x, budget carbon parts. Works pretty good.
Should've first tried tapping a torx bit into that stripped screw.
Look up these - fantastic. Twist style locks in tighter and tighter.
Sealey AK65601 Hex Socket Bit Set Lock-On
Don't trash the paint! You are getting good at wrecking bikes for sure! Just take a dump before you race. That will save more weight than removing that (very nice) paint.
Durian Rider finally thumbs up a GCN vid
Alex is having fun and it really shines through the video and brings joy to the viewer. Thanks for this type of videos, really relaxing and amusing.
Lightweight Ti skewers save up to 100g for $15
Lightweight SL cassette, save up to 150g for $50
Lightweight saddle, save up to 250g for $30
Lightweight tubes, save up to 150g for $50 (I pick rolling resistance over weight savings here, latex Vittoria tubes for 75g instead of Tubolito)
Lightweight cages which may come with Lightweight bolts, 18g + 2x1g bolts per.
Ditch the left shifter, and replace it with an old SLR brake lever, like lance used to do. Easy and cheap way to save weight. Also, cut the seatpost so that it is the minimum length you meed for your saddle height. Also, cut off the drops from he handlebars. Also, remove the left shift cable stop from the downtube.
Yep - Rebuilt and repainted my well loved Trek 5900 and got the weight down to sub 16lbs and updated all parts using used components. Results are amazing!
this is actually lighter and faster and stiffer than the latest disc madone lol.
I know because Ive ridden both.
GCN have clearly been watching your videos
Loving the Budget Build series.
Liking the budget build series.
REMOVE THE REAR BRAKES AND LEFT BRIFTER, THEN CONNECT THE FRONT BRAKES TO THE RIGHT BRIFTER LIKE A PROPER BRITISH BIKE. You don't need brakes on a climb. Then climb in the drops like Marco Pantani or on the tops. 🙂
Wow another Cracking series from Alex 👏🏻👏🏻🥰
I hope Ollie is rolling out his Cannondale hillclimb bike from his Cycling Weekly days
Drill slowly when drilling bolts out, otherwise you're just heating up and hardening the metal.
And use a drill bit, not a phillips screw driver.
Tip on that ... when you get one bolt out leaving only the stuck one .... you can then wiggle it with a set of pliers to break the other one free ... friends warped brake rotor on his bike had a stuck bolt and as I was replacing with new ones got the others all out and rocked the rotor and it let go then out it came =) ... as who wants to drill these things out 'not I' ... and I hope you do a smoking good job on the paint stripping but honestly the thing looks so nice -_-
What a fun idea. The only build I've gone too crazy on was my kids 24" bike to get it around 16lbs from 32 lbs. Stripping the paint saved around 200g and the brushed aluminum look is awesome!
I built my Poseidon FX Tracklocross, for under 1000, I haven’t actually added everything up, but a rough estimate and some parts ended up on it that weren’t intended for it and some intended parts ended up set aside for a future project, but rough estimate US$850-900.
Of course I saved a ton of money not needing a group set, and the Poseidon frame is an amazing deal, brand new, delivered it was $249, handmade in California, worth the money and then some.
There is no fucking way poseidon frames are handmade in california
@@johnsmithers284 Have you looked into the matter?
If it's only for one hill climb you could remove the brakes. Who needs them going up? Or at least grid the brake pads to the minimal.
Don't strip the paint. If you go that route you might as well grind the welds off. Or cut the tubes reduce the thickness of them and re-weld it. You could even reduce the framesize, but all of those things are really stupid. No one would do this to their own bike.
At least lots are people are not saying keep the paint.... Especially as I have most certainly NOT started sanding it down already.....😅
That was such a nice paint job 😥
We can all rewatch this video to see the paint job
I have something similar made from parts and a groupset from a bygone era. It’s a Fuji Roubaix rim brake with 1x SRAM Force and some nice Mavic carbon wheels (pretty narrow by today’s standards). It’s just over 7kg with heavy-ish bars, stem, etc. Fun little project and I love the ride character of the frame.
Very cool. Would love to see that in the Bike Vault!
This is the kind of stuff we want to see!
Thanks Kuri!
RideNow inner tubes (36g) and they work a treat, if not on tubs. Cut the seat pin. Drill and flute everything, inc the frame circa 1970's TT steel framesets of Ken Bird, that whistled is the wind, old Clement no1's if you can find some that haven't rotted.
This is the series the people want! Can't wait to see the next videos! :D
Love this! My Old Madone 5.9 SSL with 6800 comes in on 7,5 so 6,8 should work out! Keep it real!
Brilliant!! I love it when you guys do these types of videos
Thanks David - we know they're a fan favourite!
Big fan of GCN, can't believe it, that's identical to my cherished Trek bike that's been all over the Alps. Great tips for making it lighter for the next trip up Pico Veleta, although I'm keeping the paint on and eat one less roast potato on Sunday :-)
Good to see you not just sticking the best kit available on this build. A lot more realistic for people watching.
I’ve got the Trek 1000 version of this Discovery Channel edition bike. 2007. It was my first bike and I love it. I think this has inspired me to get it out and fix it up.
Relateable to us I don't know man. None of us would strip the paint off of a genuine Team Discovery Trek. 😖
Just built up a giant tcr slr that’s at 6.9kg with a heavy (1800g) set of wheels. Stripping paint did take 148g off the frame which I then had cerakoted and added back just 19g.
A GCN vid recently mentioned that 1KG is a negligible amount of weight even on a climb, and is worth just around 5 watts. So no need for a super light bike when you can go cheaper with "heavier" components.
It's the feeling
@@laurenz323 Now that is funny and just think of how much time you wasted of your life fiddling about doing all that work for 5 Watts.
Better going on a diet than losing the bikes weight. Remember that 80% of the aero drag is created by the rider
Lightening the bike is a deeply-rooted tradition. ‘Just cuz’ is a perfectly good reason for this endeavor.
Easy to push uphills though
yes more budget builds like this. I think most people work to a lower budget than GCN uses. Its really nice to see something withn mere mortals realistic price range. I ride with plenty of people who are embarressed to ride with anything but the latest groupet. Also have listened to many snobs who laugh at others for wearing sunglasses incorrectly etc... Hopefully it just shows how negative they are personally and not a perception they project of cylists in general. Personally I like the original paint job but... I do kind of like the MAD MAX look the bike now has. Cool! more budget stuff would be good.
I have a 1987 Cannondale SR400 with all 105 parts that I really like. I've been wondering, would upgrading it with a new modern Shimano 9 speed Sora group set (including STI shifters), new aluminum Shimano Tiagra wheels, and new dual pivot 105 brakes be worse off than buying a entry level Road Bike like a Cannondale CAAD Optimo or Specialized Allez Sport? The frame has no cracks or anything and I've been using it for years mostly without issue, but the gearing sucks for hills and everything is, well you know, like 35 years old. Afaik you can upgrade old Cannondales to modern group sets, even though the rear wheel spacing is like 127.5mm vs 130mm. This seems like a really good bang for my buck, it'd cost about $450-650 to do. I've also considered a Chinese carbon frame from someone like Velobuild.
When you said that you were going to upgrade this bike, I didn't think you were going to cut the number of gears in half. Going this way, remove one brake. You won't need it on the climb :) You can save weight on cheap by changing tyres and tubes to lighter ones. Good bang for the buck. Jagwire or Aligator cables save a lot of weight on "cheapish". Bar tape you can get a super light one, make your own, or do not use it at all. You can lose 50g for £20 on QR skewers. Then there are smaller gains like alloy hardware (only where it is safe to use it), cutting down the seatpost tube and much more. I like my bike light, so I do a lot of this type of "conversions". Now managed to source from eBay Cannondale Six13 from 2004 with full Dura-Ace 780 groupset. (like one in this video I believe) for £230!!! Bargain. The whole thing with pedals and bottle cage weighs 7.6kg. That means it's gonna end up below 7kg by the time I finish with it and the total cost will be around £500. Interesting video. I'm sure there are many more "Budget Weigh Weenies" out there.
National Hill Climb rules state that your bike must have two working brakes.
@@chris1275cc Thanks. Didn't know that. Alex, put both brakes on!!! ;)
@@Bear-Jew To be fair though I know a few hill climbers and when it comes to brakes "working" is open to interpretation some cut the blocks in half and sand them right down the wear line and there are calipers out there that are super light but wouldn't stop a toddler on a tricycle. Basically if whats left of the blocks touch the rim when you pull on whats left of the levers you're good to go LOL. Your suggestion of one normal fully functioning brake would ironically be much safer and lighter overall in a lot of cases. But hill climbers are a bit unhinged anyway 🤣
Did this a few years back. Got a Domane ALR for 950. Sold the hydraulic group and wheels. Bought a set of used prime carbon wheels and a 10sp tiagra mech group and trp brakes. There’s some luck involved but also patience and constant research.
Don’t destroy the paint job, it’s great bike just increase the budget to buy better components
Totally
id rather spend money on full carbon forks rather than sanding the paint off.
A Trek Madone with Shimano Dura-Ace 7800 was a cutting edge €5000 bike in 2003, so it's not surprising that even with heavy finishing kit and wheels it still weighs less than eight kilos. I know because one of my cycling pals who was a huge Lance fan and bought one with his own money and he was quite miffed because he still got dropped on the evening club run. Apparently the five grand price tag didn't include the Lance legs...Or the high octane performance enhancing drugs all the US postal team were juiced to the eyeballs on... It's still a seriously cool bike...
Save the paint Alex!!!
it was not a super lite climbing bike, but I chopped off nearly 10 lbs on an old hybrid I owned by replacing the suspension fork with a standard fork, new wheels and tires, going 1x and a 12-25 rear cassette as I live in a very flat area, putting on carbon bars and seat post and replacing the massively heavy saddle. The fork alone was almost 6 lbs. The bike was right at 30 lbs when I started, ended up at 20.25 lbs when I was done. Rode very nice after, used it as a commuter and sold it a couple of yrs ago as I no longer needed it.
As an owner of an older Trek Madone, I was hoping your built wouldn't involve any permanent or disfiguring changes to the bike. Felt a bit disappointed when I head Alex say he would remove all the paint and go down to bare carbon. Unfortunately, I'm sure the damage is already done.
I’m not watching the next videos if you strip the paint. That blue is beautiful!
@Alex Left handed drill bits unlike the monkey wrenches are not a joke. They are the go to for backing out striped/rounded bolts.
It seems that, for beginners, functionality, durability, and ease of maintenance are far more important to keep this person in the sport. If this involves forgoing a bike with cheap disc brakes, so be it.
Rim brakes are way easier to maintain
@@loc9588 bb7's are as easy to maintain and work OK, but other than that i agree.
When Alex was taking off the front mech hanger I was looking at the chainring teeth ready to eat his hand with one slip 😂
Keep the iconic paint job
LONG LIVE THE RIM BRAKE!!! ❤
you can put a tape on the bolt thats stuck and you can undo it easier
For stripped screws you can use a dremel with a disc edge to make it into a flathead. Then use a flat head screw driver to remove the wasted screw.
Also the 1x narrow-wide wolf tooth front chainring is an amazing option. Also doesn’t wear as fast as cheap aftermarket narrow-wides.
The drilled handlebar was a factory Trek/Bontrager feature from this era. A version of those bars were my favorite for quite a few years.
That dura ace is noice!
Great! Gives me inspiration for Red Bull Hill Chasers! 😄
Long live @Durianrider 🙌
Next, Calvin from Park Tool will show us how to use an Ez out.
Going all uphill, get a pair of fixed gear wheels and take the rear brake, rder, and derailleur hanger off. You can be even more ballsy and just take both brakes off and turn it into a true uphill fixed gear
But the paint is so pretty 😍
Cant wait for the next episode. Good job so far
CAAD 10 frame
SRAM RED 10s groupset
Jetfly SL Wheels
Cane creek EE Copy version brakes
Carbon power saddle copy
Deda alanera copy integ dropbar
This build got me well under 7kg
Most of these parts i bought used
If you want cheap a lightweight group, go Sensah Empire. I think the crank should be left alone, because the Dura ace is pretty light even the old model. I dunno where else to save a lot of weight.
I like this series, more than average gcn episode! Btw try to score some titanium qr axles for your new wheelset, great price/weight ratio!
Drop the front mech or if you’re going to keep it, do ‘a lance’ and put on a traditional gear lever on the down tube and get rid of the rear sti unit with a simple brake only lever
Can you find a brake only lever for the front without going to an old one (so the both feel the same), or strip out the shifting innards from the existing lever.
I am probably wrong but this bike reminds me so much of one of the bikes Lance Armstrong was riding back in the day. The paint job, geometry, and everything about it. It is cool to think you might have had something very unique :D Not so good to think that then you removed the paint :D
I've warmed to you Alex. Good work
8:05 Paint-Stakingly
Hey! How about dropping the final chain drive and going to a belt drive, like on the Cube Editor bicycle?! Saves weight but will cost just a little bit more. But dirty the hill climb.... It's secret weapon time, RIGHT!
Nooooooo! Not the paint!
Ah rim brake !!! For the ROAD, DISCS FOR DIRT. 2005 AERO MADONE 5.2 120 OCLV CARBON. IF THIS WERE THE 5.9 110 GRAM VERSION IT WOULD BE LIGHTER LOVE IT. ONLY THING I DID NOT LIKE WAS STRIPPING THE DISCOVERY PAINT JOB . THAT HURT.
Save the paint !!
Don’t remove that beautiful paintjob!
Used carbon bars with the drops cut
Remove both brakes, or at least the rear one, and the brake lever you won't be using
Cut the carbon seatpost the shortest you can
Grab a dremel and punch holes on the remaining brake lever and the top part of the saddle
Used carbon pedals
Used carbon forks
I once put my bike on a diet. It started out with 9,5 kg and i landed on 8 kg, so 1,5 kg and it cost me about 1500. Change pretty much everything but the frame and fork. I even used aluminium and titanium bolts. But it was a fun build.
Save the paint!
Change your STI for the front shifter to a normal brake lever. Also cut off the lower part of you handel bars. Ah, rimends me of the good old times of weight safing :)
If you round a bolt the old school way to do it is make it a flat head by hacksawing a groove in it.
I feel that my emotions are misplaced, but cannot get over the fact that my 2022 BMC Roadmachine (58cm) weighs like nearly 9kg! I mean it doesn’t cause too many issues because I live in a complete flat city but on the rare occasion I do find an acceptable climb, the extra weight compared to my previous bike is noticeable! Other than knocking 140 grams off the seat, I don’t think I can make anymore “budget” gains. Anyways, with reference to the video, stripping paint, while ruining the look, can save like 300 grams, which I can personally attest to, though I’d rather not describe the whole process because the new paint job was so bad that I didn’t even rebuild it and just bought a new frame and transferred the parts!!
Hey! How about dropping the final chain drive and going to a belt drive?! Saves weight but will cost just a little bit more. But dirty the hill climb.... It's secret weapon time, RIGHT!
Ha! We knew it! Alex is a rim brake fan! 👍🏻
Very good, next part 2 :)
Use an Easy Out to remove the striped front derailer bolt.
Love this topic!
Looking forward part 2, part 3, etc
don't remove the paint. just cut the drops off the handlebars and save about 100 times more weight! remove the internals from the front shifter too if you're going x1