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Power in the Back - How To
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2018
- One of the first mods you will need is power in the back! Here is a how-to on how to do it!
I hope you find it useful!
Some items used (referral links):
===============================================
BlueSea BelowDeck Power Distribution 4356: amzn.to/2CDo20s
Mini Butane Torch: amzn.to/2wVYjdu
Stinger SGP 901001 Circuit Breaker 100A: www.parts-expr...
Stinger Select Power Distribution: stingerelectro...
8 Inches 5-In-1 Multifunctional Electrician Pliers Electrical Needle Nose Pliers Wire Stripper Crimping 5 In 1 Pliers: I got these at Lowe's for $29.00 - they are $60 on Amazon (crazy)
Heat Shrink Tubing: amzn.to/2x0jvPA
4GA. Wire: amzn.to/2N4HuYU
Waterproof Wire Connectors Heat Shrink: amzn.to/2CDaMJ9
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![This Auxiliary Power System is a HUGE upgrade! - [Part 7] Lexus Overland](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YZ4U0p_Kv8E/mqdefault.jpg)
I had a major surgery and was in hospital for 5 days and now bed ridden at home. Found your channel and am absolutely loving it! I live in WA and we hit the trails all the time. We are currently building a ‘79 Bronco for our new adventure rig. Thanks for making my recovery more enjoyable!
I just got done running the same thing to the back of my tundra for my dometic cfx 50. I also upgraded my battery worked great but I decided to install a second deep cycle solar battery in my toolbox hooked up to a flexible 160 watt solar panel that I mounted to the roof of my truck. It’s awesome and it runs the fridge at 33° nonstop in 100° weather with no problem. It sure does keep my beer nice and cold! I love my fridge best investment ever!
Great mod! I definitely found it useful and will probably add a similar set-up to my Tundra's bed and maybe one in my travel trailers storage box on the tongue. I have to admit that I really appreciated was your candid comment about "multiple trips to the store" since we all know that it happens. I wish more channels were that honest. Keep doing more of that!
A true NORCAL local eating an It's It. Michael there is nothing better than one of those and a wienhard root after a long day on the trail and electricity make it happen. The look on my dad's face when I pulled out one of those sweet treats was worth every cent sliced finger and busted knuckle after my electrical upgrade. May you have safe travels ahead I'm finally in application mode, hopefully fires stay away and work with it as we aproach my new favorite travel season fall and winter.
Glad to see you doing it the right way and stressing that to your viewers.
Doing it right, especially anything electrical, is so important. I love seeing this done well, with good practice, and with patience! Thanks for the video!
I just did a similar project on my LX450. I used the battery tray from an earlier FJ80 to mount a deep-cycle battery under the hood. Then I used a Redarc BCDC 1225D DC to DC charge controller to isolate the deep cycle and provide a proper charge cycle for the battery type (keeping the starting battery isolated from any kind of constant draw was a big priority for me). I Brought 4 guage all the way back to the rear passenger corner with a 100 amp breaker off of the deep-cycle battery. I managed to hide a Blue Sea fuse block in the factory supplied cubby in that corner. All of my rear accessories are off of that fuse block (ARB fridge plug, Blue Sea 12V plug/USB/Voltmeter panel, Blue Sea 12V plug/USB panel.).
I have installed a lot of Blue Sea products on my sail boats. They are of excellent quality. The biggest improvement that classifies "marine grade" concerning electrical components is the connections are nickel plated and the wires are multi-strand and tinned their entire length. There are also CG regs concerning the insulation being more resistant to fuel and chemicals.
I love blue sea systems!! The fues panels come with covers and everything, and the breaker is great!!
Bro you’re a peaceful dude. Very kind and humble in the way you speak. Your trips to nature are definitely working haha 💪🏼. ✌🏼
Nice clean install! I have one 12v socket in the back of my rig already but have been wanting to upgrade it to a beefier more useful panel like the one you installed. Thanks for the video, I might do this to my Jeep next weekend now
That is one thing I like about my Xterra is that it has a full time power plug in the front and one in the back. I still plan in the future to install an extra battery in the back and have something like you have installed on the other side of the rig running off the auxiliary battery. Happy trails from #650 in NorCal (aka State of Jefferson). Enjoy the Adventure of Life.
Excellent video! Clear, concise and comprehensive. You're a terrific instructor and your time investment in careful video editing is appreciated. I will review this video again and again.
Great install! Just a heads up though. The circuit breaker under the hood should be sized to protect the wiring running to the rear of you rig. If that is sized correctly it will protect your main wiring. That being said, any smaller wires coming off your distribution block are not protected and in the case of a short will burn before your circuit breaker ever trips. To prevent that, a fused distribution block is the best route so that you can protect each additional circuit with a properly sized fuse for the wiring size. In your case an inline fuse could correct the issue with the shortest amount of wire between the distribution block and inline fuse as possible. Remember you always size your fuse according to the wires capacity. Fuses protect the wire and prevent things from being able to short out and burn. Otherwise awesome install and appreciate the content! OB member 17840.
The Circuit breaker goes to a fuse distro block then each component in back is fused. Thank you!
Great upgrade! That's on our build list.
Cool video. Love the additional power location.
That was great Michael!! Looking to get some power to the back of my jeep, this will definitely help, thanks for sharing!!
Thank you for responding so quickly. Great info. We live in Hayward and hope to join someday.
Very good video , Thank you for posting . I've been wanting to do this to my Jeep TJ since there is no power in the back . I plan on running a fridge back there so I need power . By the way that snow cone looked really good. Lol . Take care
Nice upgrade Michael! That’s going to be mighty convenient!
great video and cool install on the power block
Nice little DIY job there. A quick, easy and tidy supply of power into the back of your rig.
I did something similar in my pickup but... I ran 12gauge to the back. Is 4 gauge necessary? I'll be using a couple little LED lights and a dometic 65. Any advice?
Great one Michael. I used that on my motorcycle.
No matter how much it costs, or how long it takes to do it right the first time, it's never cheaper or faster to do it a second time....🙂👍
Very helpful, thanks! Will be doing this from the get go instead of a scary patch work with electrical tape lol.
That rear bumper though! Dual swing away.
Can't go wrong with Blue Sea electrical.
Pretty useful video, thanks for all the effort!
Great tip and use of parts
Another great video, so much useful info!
powerful video!
Awesome video. Thank you!
Very nice. I might look for one with a DC outlet. Hopefully bluesea has one specifically with it.
Great demo video. OB member 7474...I'm going to order the parts and install in my 2nd Gen Tacoma. Q: where did you get the vertical USB and dual 110v jacks mounted vertical next to the Blue Sea setup which allows you to remote plug and keep the inverter out of sight? Thx!
I would replace the screws on the mounting bracket with bolts and nylon nuts.
Why don't you take a negative cable in paralell at the same time?
Better earth when the car gets older.
Nice video. But. I might have missed something here but you really should put a fuse block with smaller fuses in the rear as well. The breaker in the front is probably to large to protect the usb/cigarette lighter panel in the back.
Yup - did that - there is a fuse block between the breaker and the rear junction block.
Nicely done.
Great job, you made it seem like it's always been there!
Why no second battery with a battery spliter no risk of taking your start battery down to nothing an if something does happen to the battery got another one for starting?
Nice however i prefer to solder ALL connections then shrink tube. No but connectors and bull the plastic off spade connectors and solder the wire on to it or better still solder right to the male spade. If years as a mechanic in the marine industry tought me one thing it is that crimp connections will fail. Not so bad inside the vehicle but exterior wiering a must.
Good job man
Nice!
GREAT VIDEO
Nice logical upgrade. Have you ever seen or try the Inergy Kodiak powerbank and solor Solutions?
Do you still have this power set up in the rear now that you have the new relay/fuse block up front? I am wanting to run power to the rear of my Jeep for this same Blue Sea outlet panel as well as a separate connection for a compressor and and a little confused regarding how you ran this power to the rear and also fused the Blue Sea panel? I see you had a small fuse block up by the battery in this vid but that doesn't explain how the rear stuff is fused off the single 4GA power wire you ran back there...
Michael love the video...it is nice to take your time and do something right. Question, how did you run your number 4 wire to the back after it went through the firewall? Did you use the center hump, or the rocker area?
I used the rocker area - it is surprising the size wire you can fit along the rail.
Great upgrade and install! I would recommend a fuse/fuse block between the panel and power (stinger) block. Although the breaker is a must, it won’t trip at lower amperage spikes. I don’t think you’ll run into an issue with usb devices, but just a suggestion! - OB4643
Yup - the fuse block shown is between the breaker and the stinger block. Thanks for watching!
Curious with the new drawer system if you are still using the BlueSea unit in this... if not, would you be interested in selling it?
Working on doing this in our 95 XJ. Anything I do electrical to this vehicle is always done like you have shown. The original electrical system in these Jeeps was not good, so just tapping into existing wires is not good. Running new fuse and relay boxes and heavy duty wiring to the rear for added outlets or more lights will be done just like you've show. Ordering that stuff tomorrow.
One question though. You didn't show it, but hopefully you gave yourself some added length of wire from the distribution block to the switch panel as that piece you mounted all that too was designed to be removed to excess your jack and other bits and bobs, did you?
Yes!
Did you use anything to seal the power distribution to the interior panel? If not, what would you use to make it more splash resistant? Loved the video btw!
I just did a very similar thing in the passenger compartment (voltmeter and one plug), am planning on running another to the back of my discovery when I remove/fix my headliner. What fuse box did you have them use in the engine compartment, and what amp fuses did you use for the wire you ran to the back? My engineer son did the calcs for me in the front, but I'd like an auto shop's opinion too, and will need it for the back...plus need to clean up some old stuff that it looks like Land Rover did for a previous owner.
Would this hold up in the back of an f150? It would be under a diamondback? Thanks
It is a marine grade panel. It is made to be on a boat with occasional splash. I can't see why it wont work under a pretty much waterproof cover. Just make sure your connections are safe to be where ever you put them. Also, be carefull with electricity and aluminum/steel. You can create problem with galvanic corosion happening faster with electricity
a) Do you have a breaker on your positive winch line? If yes, what size?
b) for the front fuse block, I see where what I believe are the positives connected to the fuse block, but where did you ground/earth the negatives for each? I am looking to do a similar job and i am most confused about how to properly ground all the acc. lines.
Hope you tossed that rubber melter! Please use a heat blower. Much safer and they work
How many miles should I have on my vehicle before I think about upgrading the wiring? ( With normal overlanding use ) Thanks...
Its really about accessories and what you are using - I had some quick and dirty wiring jobs, and it was tome to do it right. You have to be careful with any vehicle over 20 years old - rubber and wire insulation starts to become brittle.
I would like to do the same thing to the bed of my 2019 tacoma SR access cab...I have a tonneau cover on my bed.
Did I miss the fuse after you came off that tap block? Or is the breaker up front sized for that panel you placed in the back?
Yup - there is a new fuse block after the breaker!
Hi where did you get the stinger wire reducer? Could not find that one one ebay or Amazon. Thanks
Hi there! I linked it in the details! Thanks for watching!
Hi, thanks for giving me some electrical power ideas for my JK. One question though. When you have devices charging or connected to the Blue Sea panel, is there any static while you’re using the ham?
I’m hesitant to use that space since it’s near the fuel filler and my 80 is known to build up pressure in the gas tank. That area is also prone to leaking. I’m guessing the marine grade parts will be fine but is your inverter water resistant?
I was following everything pretty well until the talking stopped and the music started near the end. Looks like two wires were spliced into the ground wire, I assume one goes to the panel but not sure where the other goes? Overall a great video but a little more explanation near the end would be helpful. Thanks
The ground is a solid ground bolt into the frame. You can write me at michael@overlandbound.com and I can send you a picture. Cheers! Michael
This might be irrelevant to your install that you did in particular but if I were running a secondary battery would I still need the breaker if the switch solenoid works as a safety between the two batteries? I'm assuming yes but I'm no electrician and thought I should ask before doing this.
great thank you
Nice job. On the cheaper units, what do you think would be the failing point?
Does anyone know what brand/part number circuit breaker he used? I’m trying to replicate his setup in my Jeep.
Hi Joe - this is a Stinger SGP 901001 Circuit Breaker 100A
www.parts-express.com/stinger-sgp-901001-circuit-breaker-100a--268-428
Hi,
What brand/type of breaker switch did you use for this install?
Thanks
Stinger SGP 901001 Circuit Breaker 100A www.parts-express.com/stinger-sgp-901001-circuit-breaker-100a--268-428
Where did you put your jack? I imagine that if you put it back in there then there is a danger of it damaging the rear of your new panel?
good stuff!
Whats is the box forward of the panel on the left side? It looks like a box that holds an inverter?
How do you like that kicker sub you’ve got back there ?
Are you able to take out the backseat in your rig
Yes.
Hey, did you do a Rubicon video?
u rock
Are you in Santa Clarita???
Nope! Dublin, CA!
$3.79 a gallon?! I'm shook
Like everything else in california, lots of taxes. They have to cover the cost for the illegals...
Its about 5$ a gallon here in Canada
If Hillary had won and carried on Obama's plan we would be paying twice that price. Your electric bill would be 3 to 5 times higher with out cheap coal to run the plants.
NorCal, Yup, and the borders would be non existent...
Spending money on your rig is an investment in your safety.
For $60 bucks you can buy a 30000mah power brick that you can use anywhere and charge anything, including fast charging, with no installation. Also will run a USB fan for literally days 24 hours a day. Seems pointless to me. Not the distribution block but for sure the panel.
Yeah - we have a couple power blocks rattling around. They are Ok.
Can't run a fridge off of a power brick for too long though.
@@__-ni1kz You also don't need a giant panel that you can't block access to for power to a fridge. That panel is huge for relatively little function.
jeep6242 if it keeps a fridge running and my beer cold, that's function enough for me mate.
I would likely have put it on a horizontal surface instead of a vertical, but I don't see a ton of those like my truck has, so you put it where you can. He put it far enough back that he probably won't totally block it when he needs to be able to get to it -- when not running -- plus it's a panel with stuff in it he may need to get to, as he mentioned.
Why are you complaining about the gas prize? Here it is $2 pr litre or $7,57 pr gallon....
Gawd!! Please... Plesase!! Stop putting in that hideous nerve racking music!!! It’s freaking annoying.
It's his signature music