Yamaha Star 1300 Oil Change
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- Опубліковано 12 тра 2018
- This is just a quick video to give you an idea of how to do an oil change for a Yamaha Star 1300 motorcycle. If you have thought of trying to do it on your own, it's very, very easy to do. Some bikes make changing the oil somewhat difficult, but the Star 1300 is about as easy as you can get. I know this may not be a perfect video, but I hope it can encourage you to have the confidence to give it a try. If you run into troubles, please, make sure to call a mechanic or at the least, that friend who is always doing his or her own car and motorcycle work.
Great video man! Thank you for taking the time to post this! I'm not exactly what you would call mechanically enclined, so this helped a lot lol
Thank you for the video I just bought a 1300 and my main concern was the oil filter I used to have a 1100 and you had to take these exhaust off just to get to the oil filter it will change it was I'm glad this one's not like that
Use a K&N filter. It has a nut on top the same size as the oil plug (fits the same socket). Much easier than trying to use an oil filter wrench.
I've heard that too and I think that's a fantastic idea. I ended up selling this bike so I'll definitely remember for the next one. I wish all manufacturers would do that. I can't see how it would really cost that much extra to make it easier for consumers.
I wear a leather belt for a reason. When taking the oil filter off, a simple wrap with that belt and the old oil filter comes off with no trouble.
Im with Richard claiborne I'm gonna get the k&n filter for my bike
This helps a lot. I have a 2009 VStar and love it so much!
A disposable plastic cake pan works great for an oil drain pan. they come rated in size by volume so it's easy to pick one larger than the oil capacity on the 1300. They are shallow, so they slide right under with no complications. I've used that technique on the road before. Makes life easy.
I am just glad that they still provide a sight glass. Most bikes don't anymore. Thanks for posting.
I'd rather have a dipstick. A lot easier to check by Yusuf
Yourself
Thanks for the vid, cleared up something for me. Looking to trade up on my ride, and I've always liked the look and feel of anything Yamaha put a 1300 motor in, but I never researched to see if they alleviated the headache that previous generations were with regard to changing the oil. Until now. After watching this and a Stryker video I can see there's nothing to worry about. Now I just have to decide what kind of bike I want around that 1300.
I was originally going to get the Stryker. I liked that raked out front fork look, but the handlebars come back too far for me to get comfortable. The star 1300 was just right. If you were in the southwest MI area, mine is actually for sale.
Thank you so much! I made the jump and upgraded from a scooter to the v star and it has been a blast to ride. Great tips, I really appreciate the visuals and step by step guidance. My dad isn't into bikes so he couldn't help me, so I appreciate an internet dad showing us how to do it on our own.
Glad I could help. I sold mine a couple years ago when I just didn't have the time to ride any more. I have more time now and I miss that bike. I'm thinking of getting it's bigger brother, the Raider.
Thank you very much that was to the point and understandable no pomp n circumstance
Thanks man I just bought my first motorcycle it's a 09 Vstar 1300 your video helped me out alot
You'll love it. I still miss mine. I had to sell it a couple of years back in the fall because I just don't have the time to ride lately. My kids keep me too busy. I loved that bike though. First thing I did when I got it was get a drill extension, and hole saw bit (2 inch I think) and drill out the baffle in the exhaust. It made it sound SO much better. You may want to try that if you think the factory sound is just too quite.
@@FloydNashFixItDad one of my only complaints is the bike sounds like a sewing machine lol maybe I'll look into what you're saying about the baffles
Hubby is “TRYING” (without much success) to remove the Oil Filter. Damn Stupid Mechanic torqued the Filter/Nut on so hard, it’s stripped. Sooooooooo now he’s probably gotta take it back to Bike Mechanic, probably same one cuz he’s the only in our area. BTW. Thanks you so much for the tutorial. Your delivery in how u relayed the information is TOP NOTCH!!!! U WERE EASY TO UNDERSTAND N I WAS ABLE TO FOLLOW YOUR DIRECTIONS, that I BELIEVE I could actually change the oil in his bike. Now to call O’Reilly Auto Parts n find a damn tool to take the stupid stripped not off. Wish Us Luck. Thanks Again Floyd.
I don't know what it is with the mechanics sometimes torqueing these things on so hard. Maybe if it's under warranty they are afraid it might vibrate loose or something, I don't know, but it is certainly a pain in the posterior.
I change my oil on the passenger side. I don't jack it up. Just leave it on the kick stand. You can reach the oil plug from the passenger side. I got a small oil drain pan from Walmart for $5.00.It will fit under the bike .And I use a oil filter wrench end cap style. Size 65/67mm advance auto parts. It has a 3/8 notch. Never had a problem getting the oil filter off. I use HF-147 oil filter. I get a 3pk oil filers from amazon.
I sold that bike in the fall but I prefer the end cap wrenches too. They work so much better than the strap style I was trying to use. I use them on my car too. Once you get used to exactly how much oil need to go in, you don't really need to use the level display either, other than to double check afterwards. I ended up just hopping on the bike, sitting level with it for a couple of minutes, and having my daughter take a picture of the level with my phone. Once I showed her what to look for too, I didn't even need the picture. I missed that bike this summer too.
Awesome video
A rubbermade cake pan 6 quarts is low enough to slide under the bike even on the sidestand. It has a lid you can secore to transport for recycling. I developed that technique for oil changes on the road. It's served me well so far. I wear a leather belt to help with removal if the K&N filter is not available. The K&N has a 17MM nut to help with removal. I haven't put it on a lift yet, and I'm working on the 64,000 mile oil change at the moment. I've used 10W40 the whole time from everything from 124 degrees in Death Valley to 19 degrees riding mountains. No worries.
The sight glass they put in was a stupid idea. The engineer that thoughtbit was good to go, should catch a beating.
I ended up selling mine a couple years back. Just didn't have time to ride with all the stuff I was involved in with the kids. They're starting to get their own cars now though, so looking at getting another. I like the Raider, the big brother to this bike. It's supposed to be really well balanced. I agree with that sight glass. Bring back a good old fashioned dipstick. Nothing wrong with it and it works perfectly.
I just got a 2012. Hilarious to ride in the UK as it actually goes around our twisty roads very well. The PO obviously wan't technically minded and I had to use the hammer and screwdriver approach to get the filter off. I am not sure it has ever been changed. The oil was old but OK. I also sprayed around it before removing as it collects dirt down there.
Next job is to change the coolant. The little A cover has never been off and I'm going to have to use my small impact driver to get the 3mm screws out. 11,000 miles only so I'm not too worried about what condition it might be in. It's coming out, whatever..
Comedy tiny baffle fitted in one pipe only means NOISE!!!! but proper baffles are cheap.
My sight glass read half level yet not even a quart drained out. I put less than a quart back in and sight glass is over high limit. Can you please tell me wth is going on? Dealer did last oil chnge. This is my 1st with this bike. Thanks!!
Toyota car filter wrench works nice. It's a cup style
Thanks.
Hi Floyd, thanks for the video! It's a good refresher. What type of motorcycle jack are you using? I have a smaller motorcycle jack that I got at menaards and the lifting bars don't fit around my engine. I feel like this is a common problem with the 1300's as the engine sits lower than the frame in certain spots. I've been wedging hockey pucks precariously so that the jack's lifting bars are only applying pressure to the frame. Do you have this problem with your jack?
The jack I have is a Harbor Freight jack. Nothing special but it's pretty darn good. I have used it on my car and it lifts it just fine. I put one bar on the jack under the frame part, but the one toward the back does end up lifting on a little bit of the rear tire swing arm. It's not preferred, but the bike doesn't seem to mind. I don't think it's ever going to be perfect, but I'm careful not to lift on a part that can't handle the weight, and I only need the jack really during oil changes, so it hasn't been a problem.
M
Thanks for the video.
I just bought a 2008 so you're video helps me.
Did your bike come with the back rest if not where did you get it from any product# would sure help, again thanks.
Hope you enjoy yours as much as I enjoyed mine. It didn't come with the back rest. I honestly can't remember where I got it. It wasn't supposed to be a permanent addition, just something to get me by until I got a better one, but I ended up really liking it. It was still on when I sold the bike.
Do what this guy said. K&N all the way.
he used a WIX Oil filter
Thanks
I use 20w50 aviation oil
Was the heel toe shifter factory installed?
Yes, the Star bikes all come with that factory.
Which oil you use mineral or semi-synthetic ???
Whatever the Valvoline 20W-50 motorcycle oil is made of. I believe it's just a conventional motor oil. In talking to the mechanics at the bike shop, they said with these V twins, as often as the oil is changed, and with the low RPMs they operate, there is no need for a super expensive or exotic oil. They have bikes that use the conventional oils that are going strong over 100,000 miles. The most important thing is to change it regularly, and annually at minimum. I never went over 4,000 miles on an oil change.
I found out that my bike used to have 15W50 put in, the only service I have done, 10W40 was out in which has left my bike making all sorts of sounds.
So 15W50 or 20W50? what would be good?
Look up the manufacturer recommended oil and use that. For the 2012 Yamaha 1300 it was either 10W-40 or 20W-50. The first number is the viscosity when the oil is cold. In colder weather, the lower number will flow easier. In warmer weather, the 20W-50 can offer a bit more protection for just normal around town and highway cruising, but either is OK. Make sure you put the correct amount of oil in as well. Too much can cause troubles too.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Australia here so 20W50 is what I went with here hoping my issue is sorted.
Funny, I ride a Yamaha 'VStar' 1300t and one of our cars is a Volvo S60!
We seem to all love German cars. We want the best we can get for the money. Simple
20w 50 ? in the manual said 10w 40.. is better 20w 40 or 20w 50? is calid my country.
If I rode regularly in the winter, I would have used 10w-40. Winter here comes with snow, so that's not possible. I kept the motorcycle in a garage that was usually no colder than 40-45F so starting it on colder days with 20w-50 wasn't an issue.
@@FloydNashFixItDad
I ask why in the manual it asks to put 10 w 40, where I live it never snows and I ride it above 45 ° or 50 ° F. I mean, does it not harm to put 20w 50 on the motor? Temperatures where I live range from 32 ° to 95 ° F.
Ok, so you have a jack under it, correct? Why not jack it up to have all the clearance you need to make it easy??
I probably could have. In this case I was working alone and just didn't want to risk doing something stupid and having the bike tip over off the jack. Jacking it up all the way wouldn't have had a huge impact so I just used the jack as a leveler to stabilize it.
Last oil change I couldn’t get the filter off. Next year I’m taking it to Yamaha and paying them to do it. I can’t see my oil bubble window plus the bike would need to be upright. Recently I went to my Yamaha dealer to see if I could get a dipstick like cars have. Nope 🤬
I asked my dealer about that and they said most bikes don't have them these days. Adding a dipstick costs money apparently. I think that's a perfect opportunity for some 3rd party company to come in and make them. I would gladly pay the extra $5 the bike would cost to add a simple dipstick.
does that bike have the 5 Gallon tank?
Yes. I think the exact specs were 4.9 gallons, but close enough!
can u do a coolant check an a flush
If I still had that bike I would be glad to but I sold it a couple years ago
V TWIN ??? What year is it? Most all 1300s are 4 cylinders
Actually, that's not true for bikes like this. The only 4 cylinder in this size Yamaha makes is on the Voyager. Smaller cafe racer style bikes like your Ninja or Hyabusa may also have 4 cylinders. Cruisers like Harley, the Yamaha Star line, Suzuki, Indian, or similar almost always have V twins, and some can get really, REALLY big. The Yamaha Raider, the big brother to the bike in this video is an 1800cc V Twin that is smooth to ride, sounds great, and has the torque of a bulldozer. Try riding one and you'll really be surprised at how civil they can be.
@@FloydNashFixItDad I have owned 2 Yamaha, Royal Star 1300 4 cylinder bikes. One was and 05 tour deluxe, and currently a 98 royal star.
The Yamaha VStar is an 1100 cc v twin.
The 4 cylinder bikes have duel exhaust out the back under each bag.
My 98 had 2 pipes each side, one for each piston
Very good video but you do not need that motorcycle lift to change the oil it can be done on the kickstand just as easy
The list isn't really for the changing or draining oil part, it's to make sure the bike is level when I refill it so I can see the proper level in the window.
An american with a Volvo..Never seen that before...Well better then a prius :-) Not saying the volvo is bad...Just messing with you..
I changed my oil last year without a jack.My girl keeped my ride upright/straight. :-) I have a XVS 1300 too :-)
Actually, I have 2 Volvos. A blue 2009 S60 with over 176,000 miles on it that is in almost perfect condition. Everything works beautifully. I keep it clean and replace anything that wears out. My oldest daughter will be getting that car in just a couple more months and will hopefully put another couple hundred thousand on it. It's been the best car I've ever owned. Throw some good snow tires on it too, and I've run rings around the 4x4s in the winter. I got me a used 2015 S60 as a replacement. I had to get rid of the bike though. Not enough time to ride right now. I hope to replace it in a couple years with it's big brother, the Yamaha Raider. That's a beast of a bike and with the right pipes, it makes sounds that'll make ya cry.
@@FloydNashFixItDad Nice..Volvo cars are known to be used to a long time before things break down. I can see it here too..If you wanna buy a used volvo all the volvo cars have a lot of miles on them because they are rock solid compared to other cars. I remember older volvos. They were built like a tank....A car crashed into our volvo back in the day and car looked like it had crashed into a tree in highspeed and our volvo was only a scratch on it hehe
You could have poked a screw driver thru the filter and then turn it.would have worked fine.
Yeah, I've had to do that before so I know it would have been OK, but I didn't feel the need to. I changed the oil because it had been in there a year, and I had only been able to ride a few times so it only had about 1000 miles on it. Yamaha doesn't recommend changing the filter but every other oil change too. I always prefer to change every oil change, but this time decided to just leave it in there.
NO! Don't ever do that...if the filter is really tight, it will just rip through the metal and you will end up with a real mess and not a way to get it off.
I pulled the oil plug from mine last year and got almost no oil out of it. I thought, "oh shit, have I been riding this with no oil?!?" So I replaced the filter, put in the 3.5 qts and started riding again. I got oil all over my saddlebag, so I thought, "Okay, it does have an oil leak, so I guess I need to take it in to get repaired." Well, the oil was coming out of the carburetor and the shop told me that it was way overfilled with oil. They asked if I had taken out the "second plug" to drain the oil, but I've never seen anything that indicates that there is any model of this bike with a second oil plug (nor does it make sense that it would have one, to me). This winter, I'm going to try it again and see if I can figure out what I could have possibly done wrong. I've been changing oil in cars for 40 years, so surely I can figure this out!!!
2nd plug? Does the oil pan or crank case have an odd shape with more than one low section? I've seen that in some more exotic cars, but not in a motorcycle. That's a new one on me.
@@FloydNashFixItDad I've looked at a few other videos and have determined that (I think) they were talking about the location, as in "the second bolt back" instead of a "seconds plug". In other words, I got poor directions and they have piss poor communication skills.
oil dont go bad sitting. oil companies lie about many things. Yama Mama should have made a dip stick for these oil fillers