If using another timber post (like you did). To prevent the post from being in constant contact with wet/damp soil & therefore eventually rotting again, a pro-tip would be to ensure that your fresh concrete goes right up flush with the surface around the top of the hole. As 'Postcrete' is initially runny, you can't get it any higher than surface level, but once its set, you should then mix & add a sufficient amount of cement all around the post, using your trowel to slope the surface away from the post to ensure that rainwater runs away from the base of the post. You can also do this with existing intact timber posts to prevent them from rotting further & breaking. Just dig out the soil around the post till you reach the concrete (as you did, but ideally on all sides) then fill the remainder of the hole up to just above surface level as described above. Make sure the surface of the existing concrete below ground is clear of soil & wetted before applying the fresh concrete, else the new concrete may not fully adhere to the old & moisture will track between the two, thereby negating your work! If, through necessity, you've exposed a large area in replacing the post (as you did) and you don't want a large area of concrete visible at the top, just make some 'shuttering' around the post on top of the surface of the set concrete below ground level, to project above the level of the upper ground surface, leaving an area of approx 50-75 mm around the post for your top-up concrete, then add the concrete to the desired level & trowel to form the slope above ground. Although this process obviously means that some concrete is visible around the base of the post, I'd rather that than keep replacing posts unnecessarily!
It needed to be in the same place as the last post otherwise the fence panels wouldn't reach also might look odd if the spacing is different between each post 😊
Leaving the stub of the old post in the ground is the lazy man's way... There's easier ways to remove the entire pole and concrete if you have the right tools and sufficient access to the area than using a pick ax...
If using another timber post (like you did). To prevent the post from being in constant contact with wet/damp soil & therefore eventually rotting again, a pro-tip would be to ensure that your fresh concrete goes right up flush with the surface around the top of the hole.
As 'Postcrete' is initially runny, you can't get it any higher than surface level, but once its set, you should then mix & add a sufficient amount of cement all around the post, using your trowel to slope the surface away from the post to ensure that rainwater runs away from the base of the post.
You can also do this with existing intact timber posts to prevent them from rotting further & breaking. Just dig out the soil around the post till you reach the concrete (as you did, but ideally on all sides) then fill the remainder of the hole up to just above surface level as described above.
Make sure the surface of the existing concrete below ground is clear of soil & wetted before applying the fresh concrete, else the new concrete may not fully adhere to the old & moisture will track between the two, thereby negating your work!
If, through necessity, you've exposed a large area in replacing the post (as you did) and you don't want a large area of concrete visible at the top, just make some 'shuttering' around the post on top of the surface of the set concrete below ground level, to project above the level of the upper ground surface, leaving an area of approx 50-75 mm around the post for your top-up concrete, then add the concrete to the desired level & trowel to form the slope above ground.
Although this process obviously means that some concrete is visible around the base of the post, I'd rather that than keep replacing posts unnecessarily!
Very good tip thank you, I hope people see your comment and use this advice to Finnish the post 😊
A very good video
Thank you Geoff 😊
Did you consider Post buddy or similar 🤔 I enjoyed the video
I will look into this thank you 😊
You can also sometimes get the old post stump out and use the hole, if it's sound, to insert the new post, shim it to get it tight, Bob's your Uncle.
NOOICE!
I thought you were growing potato's in that hole.
Hahaha I would definitely rather have potatoes than a fence tbh x
Who has an 1876 pickaxe?
Me if you want to borrow 😂
@@diydan1394 I haven't learned to be that handy, but thanks
Would you not just put a new post in a foot away
It needed to be in the same place as the last post otherwise the fence panels wouldn't reach also might look odd if the spacing is different between each post 😊
@@diydan1394 You can use same Horizontal rails to join the panels and who cares or will notice one foot. If posts are on yur neighbours side the back.
Leaving the stub of the old post in the ground is the lazy man's way... There's easier ways to remove the entire pole and concrete if you have the right tools and sufficient access to the area than using a pick ax...