I love my American Green Light lights! It would drive me crazy I would finish a piece think I am all good to go steep outside with the piece and turn right back around with my old florescent lights. They have made a world of difference in how I see finishes, colors and tones. Well worth the money.
8:34 If I had my way, the entire house would be lit like this. (Well, most of the time anyway.) I'm so glad to learn about these lights - thanks, James!
So glad that you decided to show the shop being setup instead of poof, you’re up and running. Having spent 40 years as electrical engineer I am always interested in the technical aspect. I look forward to watching the rest of the shop setup. Then back to woodworking!
There is one woodturner who said, "Never take a finished piece from the shop into the house on a sunny day. Sunlight causes scratches." I figured out a long time ago that proper lighting was essential for being able to see what is going on, along with good glasses..... I do have some natural spectrum lights in my shop, but every work station has spot lights for detail work. One popular light for the sewers/hand quilters/needle point people are the Ott lamps. Of course, NEVER take 'her' lamp into the shop. I did find some work station lights that I like. Blue Max was one, a florescent type with a large output, and it was florescent, but perfect for detail work. found another, Bright Reader which is an LED. When LEDs first came out they were very 'white', and not in the "therapy" light spectrums. They now are very good about that. I will look into American Green Lights. I don't really need any general base lighting, mostly spot lighting for work stations. I never considered that our eyes would 'adjust' to different light spectrums. I had always thought that we would see best in natural sun light, and had favored 'grow' lights for my lighting..... Thanks! Will share this one over at the AAW (Woodturners) site.
I can see your point but it's not overshadowed by your illuminating personality. Just a bright spark through and through. LOL. Love the new shop. Can't wait to see more.
Thank you for your illuminating description of lighting and color. Speaking from experience of trying to explain it, I can say I t’s a difficult topic for many.
A few years back, I lucked into a bunch of low draw fluorescent fixtures. Replaced the mess of oddball lights that I had accumulated over the years. Now I have even lighting and they use less electricity.
Guitar repair shop, here... good lighting is a great way to make everything you do easier and better. Less accident prone, takes less time to evaluate work, and you won't find things you missed after it leaves the bench. I've only used consumer grade lighting, but anything marked "daylight" seems to be best for working. Probably the full spectrum thing... you're often looking for differences/details in things with very close colors, like seeing a gap between a spruce brace and spruce top, or a layer line in a finish touch up. Something that is too yellow or pale leaves you squinting a lot harder. I like my warm lights at home, but they're frustrating at work. I love how spread out the lights are, too. If you don't have enough, you'll be constantly blocking the light with your noggin when you try to get in close to look.
I went the uber cheap route and just swapped out my fluorescent elements with LED's and have a similar effect from the 6 banks in my shop. That was a really bright idea and glad you were able to shed some light on bringing a shop to life with lights
I had fluorescent light in my garage for years. I changed to LEDs to save some money but ended up with much better lighting which is easier on my old eyes as well as saving some money.
I have forming cataracts. The more light the better! I have 9 LED fixtures in my 12'×24' shed. In addition I use a 1000 lumen headlamp and a 1000 lumen flashlight. When I walk outside on a sunny day after a few hours in my shed the outside world seems a bit dark!
I have a small shop, 9 by 13 and I have 7 80w equivalent white led lights. I turn them on for each station I have as I work there. I was taught by a machinist that lighting is KEY to safety.
I had so many T8 fluorescents in my insulated garage, it was enough to heat the shop if I left the lights on all the time. Doing that used 20 kWh per day, close to doubling the winter electric bill. In the summer, extra heat was not good. I'm almost done switching to LEDs.
Is the wiring such that you can turn OFF the ceiling cans while recording videos? Or perhaps you can install "Greenlights" vertically on the wall opposite your bench and create a large softbox effect. Good video. Thanks for sharing.
5:59 love this video, thank you for this. Did the video you mentioned at this timestamp end up linked in the description? I found one from 3 years ago, was that the one?
. I did not add that thanks for letting me know. Here's the video and I think it's the one you found. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DuhxODp83roY&ved=2ahUKEwi7puftqfmGAxXckIkEHev2CokQwqsBegQIAxAG&usg=AOvVaw06Bybovg_29Pcs4RFVfKcC
Nice setup! I also went with LED lighting when I built my new shop. It’s rather small, 14’x20’ (I framed in a single carport). I went the cheapskate route, and hung two of the cheapest 4’ LED shop lights that I could find at Lowe’s. It’s amazing how much light those things put out! I think maybe two more units will be sufficient for anything I’ll ever need.
They are LED. It is less to do with the light source and more to do with how spread out it is. Having the light all coming from One direction creates heart shadows also the LEDs in the can lights are not the same quality as what you would get from American green light. They have far less of the color spectrum. Even though they are the same color temperature.
Of course, in order to say "let there be light" the sound technicians had to already have set up the sound system and intercom headsets. :) (Ah, the eternal rivalry between the squeeks and the squints)
That really doesn't matter much as long as they are all the same. Your eyes will naturally adjust just about anything as long as you're not going to the extremes. Mine are 5000
The wing type strips are $27.00 each. You need to also purchase a driver that matches the total wattage you intend to power up with a single driver. Here, each driver powers 10 strips are are $119.00. With the WoodbyWright discount code, you would get 10% off the price.
That's very reasonable. I bought the cheapest lights on Amazon for my shop. They weren't much less expensive than that, but they don't seem to be very reliable.
1) Drywall is surprisingly strong for these kinds of things, it would have held fine probably even without the adhesive 2) that being said, since the lights are not dovetailed into the ceiling its a 0/10 from me.
Constructive criticism: In your video posting haste, your title has misspelled 'installation'. Not 'instillation'. -- Nit picking, I know. Otherwise, the subject was presented well. 👍
This guy knows more than he shows. For all you know he got just what he wanted from you. The comments in this section regardless of content boost the activity of the channel and help him out... he's picking the nits!
@@WoodByWrightHowTo True. You need your key and fill. I thought you were just saying you needed the key and fill because of the cans. You asked before about what views we want to see. I don't need to see the rest of the class but I think two different shots from the front, one overhead, and one mobile so we can see close detail. This might be best using a little video hi-hat or perhaps even a GorillaPod. That would be all four inputs on your Atem, I think. You might need to upgrade that and add a graphics or project plans source. I'll see if anything else comes to mind
CRI. Color Rendering Index. James is correct, as long as the bulb's color temperature is uniform throughout the work space, a high CRI is much more important than a high light temperature. Every decent bulb has a spectrum quality number, 1-100, right on the package. Below 80, evil. 84+, acceptable only for traffic and parking lots. 88+, just barely acceptable indoors, 92+, acceptable for almost all homes and non-technical purposes. 94+, excellent color rendition. 96+, amazingly even color spectrum. 98+, only a handful of scientists or engineers require a color spectrum this complete. Older style bulbs that produce a LOT of heat, like halogen and tungsten, typically produce a very high CRI but waste an amazing amount of electricity as heat and are being phased out everywhere. You want efficient LED lights, with an excellent spectrum (CRI) and "soft" even distribution. The problem with CRI? $$. Cost rises dramatically as CRI rises. Most big box bulbs have a CRI in the 80s. Perhaps 92 if you are very lucky (and very careful to look for the CRI rather than the marketing terms). For a range of choice, in high CRI lighting, you must go online or find a specialty store. Wherever you shop, check the CRI. The scale I describe above is my own, is subjective, and is just to provide guidance. You might not care if your colors look inexplicably weird.
This begs the question, though: to whom is 88 "barely acceptable indoors"? The average person who doesn't know or care what CRI is, or an experienced photographer/videographer/interior decorator who have a thorough understanding of how CRI can affect the perception of various colours? Or someone in between?
Good lighting is like good design or well-seasoned food; you are still affected by it, it still makes your experience better, even if you cannot articulate why. The issue is important enough, for numerous reasons, that some localities mandate a minimum CRI. For instance, (except for specialty applications) California does not allow the sale of any fixture with a CRI less than 82. Even stricter, new construction requires a minimum CRI of 90.
I love my American Green Light lights! It would drive me crazy I would finish a piece think I am all good to go steep outside with the piece and turn right back around with my old florescent lights. They have made a world of difference in how I see finishes, colors and tones. Well worth the money.
1:00 lol at "diffuse porous light". He loves white oak so much he wants the same grain structure in his wood as he does his overhead lights.
I'm glad someone caught that LOL
8:34 If I had my way, the entire house would be lit like this. (Well, most of the time anyway.) I'm so glad to learn about these lights - thanks, James!
Ahhh, that technical theater background explains all your dynamic shots on the live streams! What an interesting lighting explanation!
Your lighting expertise is shining through. I too think shop lighting is important, we're on the same wavelength.
Shop lighting is probably the most important thing to consider in any shop. Looks great!
You always find a way to light up our lives!
So glad that you decided to show the shop being setup instead of poof, you’re up and running. Having spent 40 years as electrical engineer I am always interested in the technical aspect. I look forward to watching the rest of the shop setup. Then back to woodworking!
There is one woodturner who said, "Never take a finished piece from the shop into the house on a sunny day. Sunlight causes scratches." I figured out a long time ago that proper lighting was essential for being able to see what is going on, along with good glasses..... I do have some natural spectrum lights in my shop, but every work station has spot lights for detail work. One popular light for the sewers/hand quilters/needle point people are the Ott lamps. Of course, NEVER take 'her' lamp into the shop. I did find some work station lights that I like. Blue Max was one, a florescent type with a large output, and it was florescent, but perfect for detail work. found another, Bright Reader which is an LED. When LEDs first came out they were very 'white', and not in the
"therapy" light spectrums. They now are very good about that. I will look into American Green Lights. I don't really need any general base lighting, mostly spot lighting for work stations.
I never considered that our eyes would 'adjust' to different light spectrums. I had always thought that we would see best in natural sun light, and had favored 'grow' lights for my lighting..... Thanks! Will share this one over at the AAW (Woodturners) site.
I can see your point but it's not overshadowed by your illuminating personality. Just a bright spark through and through. LOL. Love the new shop. Can't wait to see more.
Thank you for your illuminating description of lighting and color. Speaking from experience of trying to explain it, I can say I t’s a difficult topic for many.
A few years back, I lucked into a bunch of low draw fluorescent fixtures. Replaced the mess of oddball lights that I had accumulated over the years. Now I have even lighting and they use less electricity.
Guitar repair shop, here... good lighting is a great way to make everything you do easier and better. Less accident prone, takes less time to evaluate work, and you won't find things you missed after it leaves the bench.
I've only used consumer grade lighting, but anything marked "daylight" seems to be best for working. Probably the full spectrum thing... you're often looking for differences/details in things with very close colors, like seeing a gap between a spruce brace and spruce top, or a layer line in a finish touch up. Something that is too yellow or pale leaves you squinting a lot harder. I like my warm lights at home, but they're frustrating at work.
I love how spread out the lights are, too. If you don't have enough, you'll be constantly blocking the light with your noggin when you try to get in close to look.
It turned out amazing, James! Fantastic work and choice! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I went the uber cheap route and just swapped out my fluorescent elements with LED's and have a similar effect from the 6 banks in my shop. That was a really bright idea and glad you were able to shed some light on bringing a shop to life with lights
Thanks James.
Good lighting is a must. Looks like you nailed it.🙂🙂
I had fluorescent light in my garage for years. I changed to LEDs to save some money but ended up with much better lighting which is easier on my old eyes as well as saving some money.
I can't believe you said difused porous lights :D I love it!
I could not help myself!
nice to be able to go into your shop in sock feet, oh, I like the lights also
Bro im 12 and you got me started you are awsome
hi james i think the lights even with the can lights make it look like your should at least in my opiniion have fun in the shop
I have forming cataracts. The more light the better! I have 9 LED fixtures in my 12'×24' shed. In addition I use a 1000 lumen headlamp and a 1000 lumen flashlight. When I walk outside on a sunny day after a few hours in my shed the outside world seems a bit dark!
We all try to be brighter as we get older
Your puns are brilliant!
I loved the " Past!" 😂😅😂😅❤
Thanks James
I prefer insufficient lighting in my shop as it makes a fun game to guess where your line is, as there is always a shadow cast on it no matter what. 🙃
I have a small shop, 9 by 13 and I have 7 80w equivalent white led lights. I turn them on for each station I have as I work there. I was taught by a machinist that lighting is KEY to safety.
I had so many T8 fluorescents in my insulated garage, it was enough to heat the shop if I left the lights on all the time. Doing that used 20 kWh per day, close to doubling the winter electric bill. In the summer, extra heat was not good. I'm almost done switching to LEDs.
Thanks for sharing that!
Is the wiring such that you can turn OFF the ceiling cans while recording videos? Or perhaps you can install "Greenlights" vertically on the wall opposite your bench and create a large softbox effect. Good video. Thanks for sharing.
5:59 love this video, thank you for this. Did the video you mentioned at this timestamp end up linked in the description? I found one from 3 years ago, was that the one?
. I did not add that thanks for letting me know. Here's the video and I think it's the one you found. www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&opi=89978449&url=m.youtube.com/watch%3Fv%3DuhxODp83roY&ved=2ahUKEwi7puftqfmGAxXckIkEHev2CokQwqsBegQIAxAG&usg=AOvVaw06Bybovg_29Pcs4RFVfKcC
@@WoodByWrightHowTo much appreciated thanks 👌 I’ve watched both videos a few times today, very informative, love your work
Nice setup! I also went with LED lighting when I built my new shop. It’s rather small, 14’x20’ (I framed in a single carport). I went the cheapskate route, and hung two of the cheapest 4’ LED shop lights that I could find at Lowe’s. It’s amazing how much light those things put out! I think maybe two more units will be sufficient for anything I’ll ever need.
1:25 time traveller!
Why am I not surprised you have a background in theatre! 😂
It's because he's so dramatic on and off camera. 😂
Interesting thanks
How about replacing light source in cans to LEDs? Would that work on the color issue you highlighted?
They are LED. It is less to do with the light source and more to do with how spread out it is. Having the light all coming from One direction creates heart shadows also the LEDs in the can lights are not the same quality as what you would get from American green light. They have far less of the color spectrum. Even though they are the same color temperature.
First! Let there be light. 💡
Boom!
Of course, in order to say "let there be light" the sound technicians had to already have set up the sound system and intercom headsets. :) (Ah, the eternal rivalry between the squeeks and the squints)
Unenlightened snide remark should go here 😅
It does look a little dark down there.
Which Kelvin temperature do you prefer?
That really doesn't matter much as long as they are all the same. Your eyes will naturally adjust just about anything as long as you're not going to the extremes. Mine are 5000
Now, how to eliminate the glare off your scalp?
Otherwise, your lighting is looking great!
Time Variance Authority will pay you a visit soon.
How much would your lights cost if you paid retail for them?
The wing type strips are $27.00 each. You need to also purchase a driver that matches the total wattage you intend to power up with a single driver. Here, each driver powers 10 strips are are $119.00. With the WoodbyWright discount code, you would get 10% off the price.
you beat me to it. thanks!
That's very reasonable. I bought the cheapest lights on Amazon for my shop. They weren't much less expensive than that, but they don't seem to be very reliable.
The big reason I went back to them was 7 years without problem in the old shop. Worth every penny.
Comment down below!
1) Drywall is surprisingly strong for these kinds of things, it would have held fine probably even without the adhesive
2) that being said, since the lights are not dovetailed into the ceiling its a 0/10 from me.
Some people have installed the strips into a groove in the drywall so the strips are recessed and flush with the ceiling.
The only issue that wasnt addretin the comments yet, ur head is waaay too shiny now :-)
the glair is real!
And he said let there be light... and we could see the shop
Comments down below.
Comment down below.
Did you just do a sponsored video?😱
I know right!
CDB
Constructive criticism: In your video posting haste, your title has misspelled 'installation'. Not 'instillation'. -- Nit picking, I know. Otherwise, the subject was presented well. 👍
This guy knows more than he shows. For all you know he got just what he wanted from you. The comments in this section regardless of content boost the activity of the channel and help him out... he's picking the nits!
Yes, he did that for you.
That is normal here. there are Misspellings all over the place. a bunch of the normals like to count and find howmany in each video.
It increases engagement. Successfully.
@@WoodByWrightHowToim knot a normal
comment down below
Computerized rax-ma-tazed,, I am so confused.......
Your misspelling made me click. Good job
I try to mix the spelling fun throughout each video. A lot of the regulars try and find them all.
Can't you just shut off the can lights?
I do. but for the face on video you need soft boxes.
@@WoodByWrightHowTo True. You need your key and fill. I thought you were just saying you needed the key and fill because of the cans. You asked before about what views we want to see. I don't need to see the rest of the class but I think two different shots from the front, one overhead, and one mobile so we can see close detail. This might be best using a little video hi-hat or perhaps even a GorillaPod. That would be all four inputs on your Atem, I think. You might need to upgrade that and add a graphics or project plans source. I'll see if anything else comes to mind
CRI. Color Rendering Index.
James is correct, as long as the bulb's color temperature is uniform throughout the work space, a high CRI is much more important than a high light temperature.
Every decent bulb has a spectrum quality number, 1-100, right on the package. Below 80, evil. 84+, acceptable only for traffic and parking lots. 88+, just barely acceptable indoors, 92+, acceptable for almost all homes and non-technical purposes. 94+, excellent color rendition. 96+, amazingly even color spectrum. 98+, only a handful of scientists or engineers require a color spectrum this complete.
Older style bulbs that produce a LOT of heat, like halogen and tungsten, typically produce a very high CRI but waste an amazing amount of electricity as heat and are being phased out everywhere.
You want efficient LED lights, with an excellent spectrum (CRI) and "soft" even distribution.
The problem with CRI? $$.
Cost rises dramatically as CRI rises. Most big box bulbs have a CRI in the 80s. Perhaps 92 if you are very lucky (and very careful to look for the CRI rather than the marketing terms).
For a range of choice, in high CRI lighting, you must go online or find a specialty store.
Wherever you shop, check the CRI.
The scale I describe above is my own, is subjective, and is just to provide guidance.
You might not care if your colors look inexplicably weird.
bingo.
This begs the question, though: to whom is 88 "barely acceptable indoors"? The average person who doesn't know or care what CRI is, or an experienced photographer/videographer/interior decorator who have a thorough understanding of how CRI can affect the perception of various colours? Or someone in between?
Anyone who has ever had a color demonstration rule forevermore see it.
Good lighting is like good design or well-seasoned food; you are still affected by it, it still makes your experience better, even if you cannot articulate why.
The issue is important enough, for numerous reasons, that some localities mandate a minimum CRI. For instance, (except for specialty applications) California does not allow the sale of any fixture with a CRI less than 82. Even stricter, new construction requires a minimum CRI of 90.