I appreciate your video thanks alot...I have been watching your videos on changing spark plugs on toyota and I must say because of your clear and honest explanation I was able to change my spark by myself today. The process was very rewarding...I now understand how to do an proper torch on the spark plug because of your video...you truly help me out thsnk you sir 🙏 😀 😄 😊 🙌 😉 🙏 continue to inspire the world with your years of experience.
Thank you Peter. Very helpful. My 11 Sienna (2GRFE V6) needed new spark plugs at 150k miles. I did not have the time to attempt myself. Had dealership take care of it. I noticed one of the plastic tabs was cracked. Take care Peter. 🙂
The plastic tabs on Toyota coil connectors (assuming that's what you're referring to) break all the time. I've found it near impossible to NOT break them so most of the time I try not to unplug them but, rather, pull the coil out of the well with it still plugged in.
If you break plastic clips like those, and you can plug them in, wrap the cleaned joint with 3M (the best made) electrical tape, then wrap the tape with a zip tie, so it can't possibly come unwrapped due to heat under there. Or you can just check it every few months. Although the electrical connectors might stay on just fine without the locking tabs. A tiny spot of epoxy on top (not inside) the seam joint would keep the electrical plugs from ever vibrating loose. You could cut the epoxy with a razor knife to unplug it, if ever needed. It looks like a small zip tie would fit between the wires, and through the gap between the coil bolt and coil. That would keep it plugged in. A tiny bit of tension is all you would need to keep it plugged in. A thin piece of insulated copper wire might work. Just don't twist the wire ends too hard. You would be surprised how much pressure a wire can exert on stuff if you twist the ends of the wire with a pliers. I broke one of those bolts holding down a coil on my Expedition about 10 years ago. (Not my fault, since the steel bolt was seized in the aluminum - a very common problem with steel bolts into aluminum exposed to water, or even just dampness, for some reason.) I just set the coil down into the hole onto the spark plug, and it has run just fine ever since without a coil hold down bolt. Gravity holds the coil down, unless you go into orbit. One reason those plastic parts deteriorate is the heat trapped under that beauty cover. If the hood is insulated, so that the heat from the engine can't mess up the paint, you might want to keep those beauty covers in your trunk. The cooler it stays, the longer that plastic and rubber hoses will last. Hot air rises. Every time I come home and pull into my garage, I open the hood and carefully release the pressure on my cooling system. Why leave stuff cook under there any longer than necessary?
Thanks Brother. Always watching and learning new tips and techniques from your Informative Videos! Learned something new today. Have a Great New Year!!!!
Thank you! The rubber grommet in the socket kept staying on the plug when I'd thread in the new plug. Just needed this simple solution, been searching yt for 45 min only to find the answer in your comment.
Thank you for these videos - extremely helpful! It seems Denso & Toyota have phased out the SC20HR11 (Toyota # 90919-01253) and replaced them with SC16HR11 (9019-01275). Also, Denso is currently listing the IXEH20TT as a valid plug for the 2015 Corolla.
I always use anti-seize on spark plugs as, for some reason certain brands of car engines have the tendency to almost seize the plug in place, even when the correct plug and torque are used and the engine is running without any issues such as overheating or oil leaks. I also place a thin smear of Silicon Grease on the coils O Ring and electrical connector rubber seal to help preserve the rubber, make it easier to remove in the future and increase its water & oil ingress resistance. Good thing you checked the original spark plugs for their suitability as the incorrect plugs can not only decrease performance and economy, but also cause nasty engine damage. Thank you Peter for valuable and informative videos. 👍
Reading Toyota literature, they actually warn against using anti-seize compounds - the amount of lubrication it provides can sometimes lead to plugs being over-torqued.
@@MattExzy That’s something I have considered. Technically the plugs Crush Washer should really be the part that provides resistance to torque rather than the threads - at least when the plug is installed brand new.
@@MattExzy This is from NGK site: Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch. OK! Toyota factory repair manual for 2006 Toyota Corolla, Spark plug installation Torque Spec for my 2006 Toyota Corolla is: 18 Foot-pounds or 25 Newton-meters. NGK web site, Spark plug installation Torque spec for 2006 Toyota Corolla with aluminium head, Spark plug with Flat Seat Type and 14 mm Thread Diameter is: 18.0 - 21.6 Foot-pounds. So with decreasing installation torque value of 20% it comes down to: 14.4 - 17.28 Foot-pounds. I always install Spark plug using Torque Spec roughly 15.0 Foot-pounds and I have never had any problem. I only had a problem when I tried first time to remove original NGK Platinum spark plugs from my two years old (almost brand new) 1994 Mazda 323. I completely twisted ratchet trying to do that. OK, it wasn't Snap-on, but it should never happened. So I went and bought me stronger tool and engine was warm (I think that helped) cause I just came from store. I complained because I didn't like to remove or install spark plugs on warm engine so my friend introduced to me and suggested to use two of the most useful products I never knew exist. First one was Anti-Seize compound and other one was Silicone Dielectric Grease. Dielectric Grease protects soft parts (rubber and plastic), protects Electrical Connectors from Corrosion and prevents Spark Plug and Boot Damage. Yes I have to admit that in beginning I was using too much of Anti-Seize all we need is a tiny amount and decrease a Torque value by maximum 20%. Working on my cars was never the same. Applying and spreading equally Anti-Seize on wheel hub before installing brake rotors makes it easier to remove it next time because I never liked idea to beat a wheel hub with a sledgehammer.
I would mention to viewers you should always install plugs on a cold engine with an aluminum head and use a torque wrench. I'm not sure in what case that guessing is better. Appreciate your channel.
What about REMOVAL of the spark plugs? Would you remove them when the engine is stone cold, warm (say 20 to 30 minutes after shutting engine off), or hot?
Are you serious. No way Toyota would do something like that and they would only use their own brand DENSO. Somebody replaced those spark plugs at Dealership. A friend of my friend was buying a brand new car. They told him to pick up the car next day. When he came he noticed the scum bags swapped the original brand new tires. He was a car guy and most people would never noticed something like that. Of course they denied that but he didn't give up until they put back original tires. I would just woke out, who knows what else they replaced! I would call police because it is theft. Imagine if same person walked in dealership and try to steal a few hundred Dollars.
You should always blow out the spark plug access hole BEFORE YOU TAKE THE PLUG OUT! Keeps dirt from falling into the cylinder… use a torque wrench… 15 lbs…
The following types of Denso Spark Plugs can be used on this engine: DENSO IXEH20TT, DENSO IXEH22TT, DENSO SC16HR11 and Denso SC20HR11. Previous spark plugs have been fine for this engine. Torque 17 Nm for all of them.
There is a sticker on my valve cover that says use NGK duel electrode irridium and i bought Denso irridium then removed the plugs and they were NGK in there??
By always starting by hand, or in this case, cause you can't get your fingers in place, very light pressure with the socket and extension. Just twist, if it goes in easily, without much pressure, halfway or further to it's stop point, then it's not cross threaded. After that, torque to specification
I'm not a mechanic but I'm a tool and die maker by trade. I'm not working in my trade but I went to technical school. Here is How I'm replacing Spark Plugs for the last 30 years. I carefully and slowly drop down the Spark plug with proper socket and extension by hand first and I never use any power tools. I try to position the extension in the imaginary middle position of the hole as accurately as possible. Once the Spark Plug touches the threads of the head I start slowly turning Spark Plug counterclockwise first, yes, counterclockwise first. If your Spark Plug is in the correct position, you will fill a slight drop of Spark Plug in a short time. You have to fill that slight drop. After that start slowly turning Spark Plug clockwise by hand. The length of the threads on the Spark Plugs for my old Corolla is roughly 16 mm (5/8 inch) so It takes some time for the gasket to reach the bottom of the hole. As long you don't have any resistance to turning, you are doing OK. If you can't turn by hand right at the beginning, stop and try to find the correct position. Once you can't do it by hand use a Torque wrench and tighten to factory Torque spec or follow a manufacturer's direction. Don't use any power tools. Too many people on UA-cam like to play with power tools. I don't know what is wrong with them.
I will remove and install each plug one by one, and only after all the openings are then filled with the coil or rubber cover would I then trust myself not to drop the coil bolt into the other open spark plug cylinders. Its a safety thing, I just never know if my hand or glove gets caught on something which causes you to lose the grip of the bolt as bring the bolt over to position. I will follow Toyota engineering installation instruction over hearsay concerning anti-seize.
Hello Sir. I am a new subscribers.. I recently did this job my 2012 Toyota Corolla S 1.8 at Mileage 160,000km because of misfire on 3 cylinders. Replaced all spark plugs and all coil packs. Is this normal for this vehicle. I think the vehicle has mileage tampering... How can I verify the correct vin number. I feel the dashboard vin and door sticker vin are not accurate For the wear on the body, interior, suspension and engine.
you may be correct or vehicle wasnt taken care of . certain scan tools can read data from ecu and other parameters of car to verify the odometer reading now / last saved number. if there is a big discrepancy then obviously was tampered. although the knowledge of this info is irrelevant. whoever you bought it from will deny it as will the dealership etc as there is really no way to prove who did it. unfortunate situation but i hope you can get your corolla in good shape
@@Xiferr yep, absolutely correct, always bring a good scan tool, or good mechanic, with you when buying a secondhand car, either privately or a dealership, if they don't like that, walk away
@@Charlie_Crown when I was looking for a car for my mom one seller clearly reset miles there was a sticker on the door jamb for something that was 100k more then what was on the odometer. LOL truthfully I've never done this buying a car because I have experience to check wear points and only buying from sellers that meet my criteria, title in their name. Original / 2nd owner / paperwork with work done to car. Etc but you really should do this because you never know
@@Xiferr yep, a lot of people literally tend to shy away from doing thorough checks, but it's prudent to do so, plus an honest seller should have no problem with checks 👍
Please 🙏 Mr. can the the coils be swapped or can any one be used for another and please if mistakenly missed up how can one know which is the right one for the right plug and hole
iridium is the longest lasting and platinum is next and plain old spark plugs are the last ones you might use.... Look to see what is the plug to use on your engine....
No, you do not put anti seize on these spark plugs! Stop being a part of keeping the myth going! Denso along with every other spark plug manufacturer have statements on their websites and packaging to not use anti seize!
I appreciate your video thanks alot...I have been watching your videos on changing spark plugs on toyota and I must say because of your clear and honest explanation I was able to change my spark by myself today. The process was very rewarding...I now understand how to do an proper torch on the spark plug because of your video...you truly help me out thsnk you sir 🙏 😀 😄 😊 🙌 😉 🙏 continue to inspire the world with your years of experience.
Hope you are feeling better Peter after your recent dental surgery!
He could read me a bed time story and put me right to sleep… he should go into voice narration for book tapes..
Thank you Peter. Very helpful. My 11 Sienna (2GRFE V6) needed new spark plugs at 150k miles. I did not have the time to attempt myself. Had dealership take care of it. I noticed one of the plastic tabs was cracked.
Take care Peter. 🙂
The plastic tabs on Toyota coil connectors (assuming that's what you're referring to) break all the time. I've found it near impossible to NOT break them so most of the time I try not to unplug them but, rather, pull the coil out of the well with it still plugged in.
3:36 Ignition Coils - You could mark the top of each with a white marker , 1 , 2 , 3 and 4 .
I like how you labeled and put the coils back in the same locations.
If you break plastic clips like those, and you can plug them in, wrap the cleaned joint with 3M (the best made) electrical tape, then wrap the tape with a zip tie, so it can't possibly come unwrapped due to heat under there. Or you can just check it every few months. Although the electrical connectors might stay on just fine without the locking tabs. A tiny spot of epoxy on top (not inside) the seam joint would keep the electrical plugs from ever vibrating loose. You could cut the epoxy with a razor knife to unplug it, if ever needed. It looks like a small zip tie would fit between the wires, and through the gap between the coil bolt and coil. That would keep it plugged in. A tiny bit of tension is all you would need to keep it plugged in. A thin piece of insulated copper wire might work. Just don't twist the wire ends too hard. You would be surprised how much pressure a wire can exert on stuff if you twist the ends of the wire with a pliers.
I broke one of those bolts holding down a coil on my Expedition about 10 years ago. (Not my fault, since the steel bolt was seized in the aluminum - a very common problem with steel bolts into aluminum exposed to water, or even just dampness, for some reason.) I just set the coil down into the hole onto the spark plug, and it has run just fine ever since without a coil hold down bolt. Gravity holds the coil down, unless you go into orbit.
One reason those plastic parts deteriorate is the heat trapped under that beauty cover. If the hood is insulated, so that the heat from the engine can't mess up the paint, you might want to keep those beauty covers in your trunk. The cooler it stays, the longer that plastic and rubber hoses will last. Hot air rises. Every time I come home and pull into my garage, I open the hood and carefully release the pressure on my cooling system. Why leave stuff cook under there any longer than necessary?
You’re kinda awesome, you know that? I’m so glad I found this video. Thank you for making it!
Thanks Brother. Always watching and learning new tips and techniques from your Informative Videos! Learned something new today. Have a Great New Year!!!!
For those without a specialized socket that holds the spark plugs, you can use a section of 3/16 fuel hose to safely start the plug.
I had to shove a piece of plumbing rubber to fabricate a socket since Canadian Tire was sold out. Worked better than factory!
Thank you! The rubber grommet in the socket kept staying on the plug when I'd thread in the new plug. Just needed this simple solution, been searching yt for 45 min only to find the answer in your comment.
Thank you for these videos - extremely helpful!
It seems Denso & Toyota have phased out the SC20HR11 (Toyota # 90919-01253) and replaced them with SC16HR11 (9019-01275). Also, Denso is currently listing the IXEH20TT as a valid plug for the 2015 Corolla.
Excellent description with pinpoint details
I always use anti-seize on spark plugs as, for some reason certain brands of car engines have the tendency to almost seize the plug in place, even when the correct plug and torque are used and the engine is running without any issues such as overheating or oil leaks.
I also place a thin smear of Silicon Grease on the coils O Ring and electrical connector rubber seal to help preserve the rubber, make it easier to remove in the future and increase its water & oil ingress resistance. Good thing you checked the original spark plugs for their suitability as the incorrect plugs can not only decrease performance and economy, but also cause nasty engine damage.
Thank you Peter for valuable and informative videos. 👍
Reading Toyota literature, they actually warn against using anti-seize compounds - the amount of lubrication it provides can sometimes lead to plugs being over-torqued.
@@MattExzy
That’s something I have considered. Technically the plugs Crush Washer should really be the part that provides resistance to torque rather than the threads - at least when the plug is installed brand new.
@@MattExzy This is from NGK site: Anti-seize can act as a lubricant, altering torque values up to 20 percent, increasing the risk of spark plug thread breakage and/or metal shell stretch.
OK! Toyota factory repair manual for 2006 Toyota Corolla, Spark plug installation Torque Spec for my 2006 Toyota Corolla is: 18 Foot-pounds or 25 Newton-meters.
NGK web site, Spark plug installation Torque spec for 2006 Toyota Corolla with aluminium head, Spark plug with Flat Seat Type and 14 mm Thread Diameter is: 18.0 - 21.6 Foot-pounds. So with decreasing installation torque value of 20% it comes down to: 14.4 - 17.28 Foot-pounds.
I always install Spark plug using Torque Spec roughly 15.0 Foot-pounds and I have never had any problem.
I only had a problem when I tried first time to remove original NGK Platinum spark plugs from my two years old (almost brand new) 1994 Mazda 323.
I completely twisted ratchet trying to do that. OK, it wasn't Snap-on, but it should never happened. So I went and bought me stronger tool and engine was warm (I think that helped) cause I just came from store. I complained because I didn't like to remove or install spark plugs on warm engine so my friend introduced to me and suggested to use two of the most useful products I never knew exist. First one was Anti-Seize compound and other one was Silicone Dielectric Grease. Dielectric Grease protects soft parts (rubber and plastic), protects Electrical Connectors from Corrosion and prevents Spark Plug and Boot Damage. Yes I have to admit that in beginning I was using too much of Anti-Seize all we need is a tiny amount and decrease a Torque value by maximum 20%. Working on my cars was never the same. Applying and spreading equally Anti-Seize on wheel hub before installing brake rotors makes it easier to remove it next time because I never liked idea to beat a wheel hub with a sledgehammer.
what is 'ingress resistance'?
I would mention to viewers you should always install plugs on a cold engine with an aluminum head and use a torque wrench. I'm not sure in what case that guessing is better.
Appreciate your channel.
What about REMOVAL of the spark plugs? Would you remove them when the engine is stone cold, warm (say 20 to 30 minutes after shutting engine off), or hot?
I'm pretty sure if you cross reference the plugs that were in that engine, they are a perfectly fine substitute for the oem plug.
thank you for this video , It's quite helpful for me to do my car.
Great video stay safe and healthy 👍
can you show a close up of how you use the pick to remove the tab on the coil?
You use it as a lever, press the release tab, get the pick in under as much as you can, then lever and pull out the connector at the same time
I’m installing denso iridium for my civic, thanks for the info
Thanks for sharing! Do you need to disconnect the battery first?
Not for spark plug removal.
At 34,000 miles when changing the plugs on my 2010 Tacoma V6 the factory put DENSO plugs on one side and NGK on the other!
Are you serious. No way Toyota would do something like that and they would only use their own brand DENSO. Somebody replaced those spark plugs at Dealership.
A friend of my friend was buying a brand new car. They told him to pick up the car next day. When he came he noticed the scum bags swapped the original brand new tires. He was a car guy and most people would never noticed something like that. Of course they denied that but he didn't give up until they put back original tires. I would just woke out, who knows what else they replaced! I would call police because it is theft. Imagine if same person walked in dealership and try to steal a few hundred Dollars.
Can you show us how to change the head gasket?
head gasket and valve cover gaskets are very different and this video is not about either one...
Thank you as always.
❤❤❤
You should always blow out the spark plug access hole BEFORE YOU TAKE THE PLUG OUT! Keeps dirt from falling into the cylinder… use a torque wrench… 15 lbs…
The following types of Denso Spark Plugs can be used on this engine: DENSO IXEH20TT, DENSO IXEH22TT, DENSO SC16HR11 and Denso SC20HR11. Previous spark plugs have been fine for this engine. Torque 17 Nm for all of them.
I got ‘em torqued at 25 Nm by the mechanic, is it too much? Engine is working well though
There is a sticker on my valve cover that says use NGK duel electrode irridium and i bought Denso irridium then removed the plugs and they were NGK in there??
👍 Excellent video. THANK YOU
Another great video. Do use anti seize on most if not all Toyota plugs? Do you put dielectric grease on the spark-plug boot side?
What i use to my corolla 2013 s spark plug sc20hr11 or sc16hr11?
How do you guard against crossthreading the plug?
By always starting by hand, or in this case, cause you can't get your fingers in place, very light pressure with the socket and extension. Just twist, if it goes in easily, without much pressure, halfway or further to it's stop point, then it's not cross threaded. After that, torque to specification
@@Charlie_Crown Thanks!
@@hu_b 👍
I'm not a mechanic but I'm a tool and die maker by trade. I'm not working in my trade but I went to technical school.
Here is How I'm replacing Spark Plugs for the last 30 years. I carefully and slowly drop down the Spark plug with proper socket and extension by hand first and I never use any power tools. I try to position the extension in the imaginary middle position of the hole as accurately as possible. Once the Spark Plug touches the threads of the head I start slowly turning Spark Plug counterclockwise first, yes, counterclockwise first. If your Spark Plug is in the correct position, you will fill a slight drop of Spark Plug in a short time. You have to fill that slight drop. After that start slowly turning Spark Plug clockwise by hand. The length of the threads on the Spark Plugs for my old Corolla is roughly 16 mm (5/8 inch) so It takes some time for the gasket to reach the bottom of the hole. As long you don't have any resistance to turning, you are doing OK. If you can't turn by hand right at the beginning, stop and try to find the correct position. Once you can't do it by hand use a Torque wrench and tighten to factory Torque spec or follow a manufacturer's direction. Don't use any power tools. Too many people on UA-cam like to play with power tools. I don't know what is wrong with them.
@@MrCROBosanceros Good details
Yes, I've heard no anti seize. I ALWAYS HAVE on my 97 Camry. But wheny Prius is due, I WON'T & I WILL use a torque wrench as a precaution.
Petr, I have another 110,000 miles to go before my 4 Denso Iridium spark plugs are due for a change. Lets' see how inspired I am then.
As long as there's no misfires or loss of power, I won't go anywhere near them, possibly ever 🤣
I will remove and install each plug one by one, and only after all the openings are then filled with the coil or rubber cover would I then trust myself not to drop the coil bolt into the other open spark plug cylinders. Its a safety thing, I just never know if my hand or glove gets caught on something which causes you to lose the grip of the bolt as bring the bolt over to position. I will follow Toyota engineering installation instruction over hearsay concerning anti-seize.
Please, spark plugs for Denso are manufactured in Indonesia, with the same performance as mine, manufactured in Japan. Thank you.
Will putting in a aftermarket cold air intake void my warranty on my 2021 corrola
Yes, and why would you do that in the first place? U will not gain any hp anyway
@@joshhemingway7294 I just want it to sound better. Hopefully if possible I want to make it a sleeper.
Great explanation!
Hello Sir. I am a new subscribers.. I recently did this job my 2012 Toyota Corolla S 1.8 at Mileage 160,000km because of misfire on 3 cylinders. Replaced all spark plugs and all coil packs. Is this normal for this vehicle. I think the vehicle has mileage tampering... How can I verify the correct vin number. I feel the dashboard vin and door sticker vin are not accurate For the wear on the body, interior, suspension and engine.
you may be correct or vehicle wasnt taken care of . certain scan tools can read data from ecu and other parameters of car to verify the odometer reading now / last saved number. if there is a big discrepancy then obviously was tampered. although the knowledge of this info is irrelevant. whoever you bought it from will deny it as will the dealership etc as there is really no way to prove who did it. unfortunate situation but i hope you can get your corolla in good shape
@@Xiferr yep, absolutely correct, always bring a good scan tool, or good mechanic, with you when buying a secondhand car, either privately or a dealership, if they don't like that, walk away
@@Charlie_Crown when I was looking for a car for my mom one seller clearly reset miles there was a sticker on the door jamb for something that was 100k more then what was on the odometer. LOL truthfully I've never done this buying a car because I have experience to check wear points and only buying from sellers that meet my criteria, title in their name. Original / 2nd owner / paperwork with work done to car. Etc but you really should do this because you never know
@@Xiferr yep, a lot of people literally tend to shy away from doing thorough checks, but it's prudent to do so, plus an honest seller should have no problem with checks 👍
Please 🙏 Mr. can the the coils be swapped or can any one be used for another and please if mistakenly missed up how can one know which is the right one for the right plug and hole
I would replace all of them and keep good old ones as reserve.
Easy peasy.
iridium is the longest lasting and platinum is next and plain old spark plugs are the last ones you might use.... Look to see what is the plug to use on your engine....
There is a mechanic who call them stupid beauty covers and doesn't like them. He says engines don't need these covers
It's a little roof for all the mice that live in there
@@no_peace the flat bracket on the battery side of the engine on a Buick Lacrosse is one place they like too.
Hello friend
Anti sieze yes!
Aluminum will sieze steel plug threads
DO TH JOB RIGHT !
No, you do not put anti seize on these spark plugs! Stop being a part of keeping the myth going! Denso along with every other spark plug manufacturer have statements on their websites and packaging to not use anti seize!
Nor anti-freeze.
can you do a video on homemade bratwurst
Be careful saying how easy it is... They might start putting them in with the oil pan facing the radiator!