@@TheBigwill517 stainless steel brake lines do not flex... so the brake feel and pressure needed to stop the car is consistent even when the fluid is hot. If you are not going to run your car on a race track... this mod is not really needed.
I had the Hawk HPS pads on my G35 and hated them! Especially in the rain. When wet they were scary because there was no initial bite. I think my ass cheeks grabbed the seat harder than the pads did the rotors.
How do u go through brakes so much? Usually my brakes last like 80k miles. Also consider the time u took to get those pads out. Probably worth just putting in the new ones.
There are notches under the car to indicate jack points on each side... Look in your owner's manual for the diagram of the 6 jack points. There are two on each side... then a front jack point... then a rear jack point (aka rear differential)
I ordered the following to run with my Z1 two piece drilled and slotted brake rotors, and SS brake lines. Carbotech XP12 front Carbotech XP10 rear Motul RBF 600 brake fluid These pads have noncorrosive brake dust and are fairly rotor friendly. Excellent informative video. As usual a very good video showing how easy it is to remove/change/clean the pads is helpful. It's a good idea to remove and clean the pads every now and then as ATC causes the rear pads to get the groves in the pads get filled with dust. I have ATC set to off in my personal mode.
Be careful with that motul 600... that fluid is not made to just sit in a daily driver... make sure its changed often. I went with a "normal" dot4 so I wouldn't need to flush brake fluid often.
Especially for those up in Canada, like myself, who can't get these pads, another excellent budget brake pad are the Raybestos Element3 EHT's. They are GG rated. I just installed them a couple of days ago and they definitely have a lot more bite, all while still being quiet and retaining the low dusting. I can vouch for it being the best of both worlds so far. Will have to see how long they last. I also have the BBK on my Q50 and previously had, what I believe to be, the stock OEM pads.
AutoX will not stress test ceramic pads. Car magazine crashed 2009 370Z after 3 laps at track because of ceramics under repeated high speed braking. Heavy and fast cars come with high metal pads to ensure car won't crash due to pad melting away under stress. Rotor wear with metal pads is a fact to live with
Yep certain pads will melt. And yes AutoX won't beat on pads too bad. BUT I can attest to these pads and the new duralast elite have stood up to actual track time at road Atlanta and little Talladega GP. See my last track videos.
Auto zone doesn’t make rotors or brake pads bosh and centric make there stuff and power stop is very good but if u ride the brake they warp very fast. I have autozone rotors and pads gold
I just noticed the rotor slot orientation on your passenger front disk. The way you have your front rotor mounted is the opposite of how Z1 wants you to run them. Z1 two piece brake rotors are directional due to the veins for max cooling. The Z1 veins are curved. Probably a non issue with yours. They look better how you have them!! 😁😎 I initially mounted them like yours, but was told by Z1 I had them on the wrong side. They are right and left with the slant going forward like this; "/", rotating clockwise. Looks odd to me that way.
The powerStop rotors are directional and have a suction effect through the holes and out the vents in the middle of the rotor. They label them "passenger" and "driver" so you cant mess up mounting them wrong.
I have a 19 Q50S AWD with no DAS. bought a set of brand new StopTech drilled/slotted rotors and street pads for a few hundred bucks a year ago (hint for those shopping our brakes are same as 370z brakes) Tracked em once, they did okay. My next track day is in dec, will be swapping to these duralast pads and upgrading to DOT4, as well as running some lower treadwear tires. This video was very helpful! Thanks!
I had a similar noise about 6 months ago when braking while in reverse. I performed an inspection thinking the same, I cleaned up and lubed everything and the noise went away. I don't think I have seen the amount of brake dust and dirtyness in other cars I've owned.
I have only seen 2 of your videos , I can tell you know your stuff. My brother owns a 2016 QX70 , I wish they kept that 3.7 engine in the car you own. Boosting it up to 350 HP would be no problem since one already exists for some time in the Nismo Z ! Anyways the QX is a 4000 pound beast , and it will still do 0-60 in 6 seconds. Your car is about 550 plus pounds lighter , I can only imagine ! It is a fact , you can never be in full control with a forced induction engine , but still , it is a hell of a car indeed !!!!!!! They should have put the engine from your car in the QX , and kept the 3.7 in the G , or whatever the f it is called now. Just my opinion , hit me back , let me know what you think ???????????
Thanks... I have ONLY purchased Infiniti products since 2008... so I've been in or drove just about all of them through the years. I think they wanted to reserve the VR30DDTT for the "sports cars"... as no other car has this engine but the Q50/Q60 thus far... the new Z will get the VR30DDTT most likely soon... and will be much faster than the Q50/Q60 if it gets 400HP too. The old VQ37VHR in the G could of been updated... but they have to meet gas mileage mandates... so turbos were the way to go. I loved my old G37x and how it revved to almost 8K rpms after a tune. But the instant torque of the new VR30DDTT is addictive and fun in it's own right. Plus the VR30DDTT is way more responsive to mods. The VR30DDTT is a great upgrade from the tried and true VQ37VHR.
Depends on what you doing with the car... Just daily driving... then you can easily go almost 2 years. But if you are cooking the fluid every now and then with spirited driving then it may be less than a year before it needs to be changed. My recommendation is to upgrade you fluid to DOT4 or DOT5.1 (five point one) so the chances of cooking the fluid is minimized. This will add a safety factor and easily allow you to run your fluid for 2 years even with spirited driving. Now if you are going to an actual road course/track then I would always have fresh brake fluid before and after the event.
@@KayDroTechnologies thanks! So I have a 2014 q sport. I recently bought it with 50k on it. I was told it is full but do you think I should get it flushed and add what you recommended? I do drive like an asshole sometimes ;)
Depends on the state of you fluid. If you brake fluid is dark and not clear you should replace it. If you brake pedal is not firm you should bleed the brakes.
@@KayDroTechnologies thank you bro 🙏🏼 last thing and I’ll leave you alone 😭 what are the name of the rotors you use ? I’m new to this red sport Infiniti platform
@@KayDroTechnologies yes I heard that part once I did I said say less let me return what I have.Appreciate the content man I have a 3.7 but still lol. Love the common sense approach man
Hello ,i have an infiniti with the same type of callipers,and i ve experienced endless brake shuddering,and vibrations,when breaking. Any tips ,please? Thank you
@@KayDroTechnologies im.on my 3rd pair, of discs in 20 000 miles,there is something else then warped rotors,i heard a lot of people with this type of callipers experience shudder and vibration,i will try to change the sliding pins
That all depends on driving style/habits... cause for me the stock pads lasted months lol... the main thing is most aftermarket pads wont melt under hard high speed braking like the oem pads.
Brake cooling ducts , scoops , will do a lot !!!!!!!!!!!!! Trust me. My Mazda cx-3 s rims , have a rotor (aircraft propeller blade curve) which extracts the hot air outwards. Winter time , my brakes never ever get hot , unless , well you know , but it does help a lot.
You will eventually warp rotors with high speed stops over time... my power stops have lasted on average 2 plus years with me going to autoX events before changing them. A normal driver may never warp them.
After bedding in the pads again the squeak noise has stopped. The "Italian tune up" wins a again lol.
Why did you change the break lines what's the difference.
@@TheBigwill517 stainless steel brake lines do not flex... so the brake feel and pressure needed to stop the car is consistent even when the fluid is hot.
If you are not going to run your car on a race track... this mod is not really needed.
Word thanks for get back to me i appreciate that sir! Just got you a subscription from me! Peace..
Welcome
I had the Hawk HPS pads on my G35 and hated them! Especially in the rain. When wet they were scary because there was no initial bite. I think my ass cheeks grabbed the seat harder than the pads did the rotors.
Lol.. wow... I just remember them eating my rotors up.
🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for the video! Great info! I"m so glad i watched this!
Glad it was helpful!
How do u go through brakes so much? Usually my brakes last like 80k miles.
Also consider the time u took to get those pads out. Probably worth just putting in the new ones.
Track time... and autocross
Nice video im gona try this setup on mine thanks 🍻
You will love it
Where do you put your jackstands on the front and back of the car?
There are notches under the car to indicate jack points on each side...
Look in your owner's manual for the diagram of the 6 jack points. There are two on each side... then a front jack point... then a rear jack point (aka rear differential)
Which powerstop rotors did you get? I can't seem to determine which Part Number I should purchase.
You have the BBK or regular brakes?
@@KayDroTechnologies I do have the BBK (Akebono Calipers) Redsport AWD.
Front JBR1300XPR
Rear JBR1386XPR
@@KayDroTechnologies what about for regular brakes? Thanks for the info my guy
PowerStop.com
I ordered the following to run with my Z1 two piece drilled and slotted brake rotors, and SS brake lines.
Carbotech XP12 front
Carbotech XP10 rear
Motul RBF 600 brake fluid
These pads have noncorrosive brake dust and are fairly rotor friendly.
Excellent informative video. As usual a very good video showing how easy it is to remove/change/clean the pads is helpful. It's a good idea to remove and clean the pads every now and then as ATC causes the rear pads to get the groves in the pads get filled with dust.
I have ATC set to off in my personal mode.
Be careful with that motul 600... that fluid is not made to just sit in a daily driver... make sure its changed often. I went with a "normal" dot4 so I wouldn't need to flush brake fluid often.
@@KayDroTechnologies
Thanks for the tip. I'll consider this setup the next service for my wife's Q50. She plans on keeping the car
Especially for those up in Canada, like myself, who can't get these pads, another excellent budget brake pad are the Raybestos Element3 EHT's. They are GG rated. I just installed them a couple of days ago and they definitely have a lot more bite, all while still being quiet and retaining the low dusting. I can vouch for it being the best of both worlds so far. Will have to see how long they last. I also have the BBK on my Q50 and previously had, what I believe to be, the stock OEM pads.
AutoX will not stress test ceramic pads. Car magazine crashed 2009 370Z after 3 laps at track because of ceramics under repeated high speed braking. Heavy and fast cars come with high metal pads to ensure car won't crash due to pad melting away under stress. Rotor wear with metal pads is a fact to live with
Yep certain pads will melt. And yes AutoX won't beat on pads too bad.
BUT I can attest to these pads and the new duralast elite have stood up to actual track time at road Atlanta and little Talladega GP.
See my last track videos.
Also stock ceramic pads are TRASH on these cars.
Auto zone doesn’t make rotors or brake pads bosh and centric make there stuff and power stop is very good but if u ride the brake they warp very fast. I have autozone rotors and pads gold
Well that explains the quality of Bosh and centric make the pads.
I just noticed the rotor slot orientation on your passenger front disk. The way you have your front rotor mounted is the opposite of how Z1 wants you to run them. Z1 two piece brake rotors are directional due to the veins for max cooling. The Z1 veins are curved. Probably a non issue with yours. They look better how you have them!! 😁😎
I initially mounted them like yours, but was told by Z1 I had them on the wrong side. They are right and left with the slant going forward like this; "/", rotating clockwise. Looks odd to me that way.
The powerStop rotors are directional and have a suction effect through the holes and out the vents in the middle of the rotor. They label them "passenger" and "driver" so you cant mess up mounting them wrong.
@@KayDroTechnologies
Detroit axel company
I have a 19 Q50S AWD with no DAS. bought a set of brand new StopTech drilled/slotted rotors and street pads for a few hundred bucks a year ago (hint for those shopping our brakes are same as 370z brakes)
Tracked em once, they did okay. My next track day is in dec, will be swapping to these duralast pads and upgrading to DOT4, as well as running some lower treadwear tires. This video was very helpful! Thanks!
You can also do DOT5.1
I had a similar noise about 6 months ago when braking while in reverse. I performed an inspection thinking the same, I cleaned up and lubed everything and the noise went away. I don't think I have seen the amount of brake dust and dirtyness in other cars I've owned.
I have only seen 2 of your videos , I can tell you know your stuff. My brother owns a 2016 QX70 ,
I wish they kept that 3.7 engine in the car you own. Boosting it up to 350 HP would be no problem
since one already exists for some time in the Nismo Z ! Anyways the QX is a 4000 pound beast ,
and it will still do 0-60 in 6 seconds. Your car is about 550 plus pounds lighter , I can only imagine !
It is a fact , you can never be in full control with a forced induction engine , but still , it is a
hell of a car indeed !!!!!!! They should have put the engine from your car in the QX , and kept
the 3.7 in the G , or whatever the f it is called now. Just my opinion , hit me back , let me
know what you think ???????????
Thanks... I have ONLY purchased Infiniti products since 2008... so I've been in or drove just about all of them through the years.
I think they wanted to reserve the VR30DDTT for the "sports cars"... as no other car has this engine but the Q50/Q60 thus far... the new Z will get the VR30DDTT most likely soon... and will be much faster than the Q50/Q60 if it gets 400HP too.
The old VQ37VHR in the G could of been updated... but they have to meet gas mileage mandates... so turbos were the way to go. I loved my old G37x and how it revved to almost 8K rpms after a tune. But the instant torque of the new VR30DDTT is addictive and fun in it's own right. Plus the VR30DDTT is way more responsive to mods. The VR30DDTT is a great upgrade from the tried and true VQ37VHR.
How often you supposed to change brake fluid?
Depends on what you doing with the car...
Just daily driving... then you can easily go almost 2 years. But if you are cooking the fluid every now and then with spirited driving then it may be less than a year before it needs to be changed.
My recommendation is to upgrade you fluid to DOT4 or DOT5.1 (five point one) so the chances of cooking the fluid is minimized. This will add a safety factor and easily allow you to run your fluid for 2 years even with spirited driving.
Now if you are going to an actual road course/track then I would always have fresh brake fluid before and after the event.
@@KayDroTechnologies thanks! So I have a 2014 q sport. I recently bought it with 50k on it. I was told it is full but do you think I should get it flushed and add what you recommended? I do drive like an asshole sometimes ;)
And I just daily drive it no track racing just highway racing
@@AIKINGBTC I reccomend at least going up to DOT4 just for the added safety of higher temperature brake fluid.
Lil too much talking at the beginning but mad informative and helpful overall!
Uhhh... ok...
When you re installed your pads did u have to bleed your brakes???
Depends on the state of you fluid. If you brake fluid is dark and not clear you should replace it. If you brake pedal is not firm you should bleed the brakes.
Got links or any update since this was posted thanks !
The new duralast elite is what I'm running now... since the discontinued the duralast maxx.
Hey do the red sports have 2 or 4 pistons in the front?
4 piston in front... 2 piston in the rear
Bro what’s the name of the brakes you use ? I’ve watched the video I just can’t find them
The pads have been replaced by the duralast elite.
@@KayDroTechnologies thank you bro 🙏🏼 last thing and I’ll leave you alone 😭 what are the name of the rotors you use ? I’m new to this red sport Infiniti platform
@@lvl-savage-lvl6659 powerStop... I mentioned then in the video...
@@KayDroTechnologies ahhh yes just making sure 🙏🏼 thanks bro I really appreciate it
Are the centric stop tech rotors any good? Sticking to the blank setup.
Oem are $70 bucks while stoptech blanks are $120
Yeah they are good.
Thanks to you returning that dot 5.1 motul I got getting some Preston's saving 30 bucks
Yep for autoX and mountain roads... dot4 is more than enough.
@@KayDroTechnologies yes I heard that part once I did I said say less let me return what I have.Appreciate the content man I have a 3.7 but still lol. Love the common sense approach man
Why do you only have the drilled/slotted rotors only on the front?
Just haven't done the rears yet... no particular reason.
Thnk you my dude you safe me $1600
Welcome!!! Duralast elite has replaced the Maxx.
Good video brother!
Thanks for your honest video. Good work
How much was the set up altogether ?
Around $500 I believe
What brake pads do you put on the rear?
Duralast elite front and rear.
are the front pads bigger than the back?
Probably double the size... you will change the rears twice before you change the front pads.
Hello ,i have an infiniti with the same type of callipers,and i ve experienced endless brake shuddering,and vibrations,when breaking. Any tips ,please? Thank you
Most likely you need new rotors...
@@KayDroTechnologies im.on my 3rd pair, of discs in 20 000 miles,there is something else then warped rotors,i heard a lot of people with this type of callipers experience shudder and vibration,i will try to change the sliding pins
@@madagrosu1713 what pads? Stock and cheap pads will deform with hard braking.
@@KayDroTechnologies i ve had brembo ,(the basic one ,not ceramic), and TRW
Tires balanced?
Great Video! What do you think of the powerstop ceramic brake pads? Like the kit they sell on amazon.
Definitely better than the stock pads...
Thank you. Do you think they will last as long as the stock pads?
That all depends on driving style/habits... cause for me the stock pads lasted months lol... the main thing is most aftermarket pads wont melt under hard high speed braking like the oem pads.
Lol I dont drive very aggressively, mainly back and forth between home and work.
@@ednannaqvi8448 i hope so, i just ordered powerstop z23 with z1 d&s rotors.
very informative thanks
Welcome
What are the rotors you are using ?
I mentioned it in the video I believe... PowerStop is the brand I like.
KayDro Technologies thank you
Sup mannnn
Sup...
Brake cooling ducts , scoops , will do a lot !!!!!!!!!!!!! Trust me. My Mazda cx-3 s rims , have a
rotor (aircraft propeller blade curve) which extracts the hot air outwards. Winter time , my brakes
never ever get hot , unless , well you know , but it does help a lot.
Yeah thought about brake ducts... but I've been fine on the track without them, at least with my driving style.
My rotors are vented and drilled as you see...
Notice any warping on the front rotors after time? Especially stopping from high speeds?
You will eventually warp rotors with high speed stops over time... my power stops have lasted on average 2 plus years with me going to autoX events before changing them.
A normal driver may never warp them.