Dunno if anyone gives a damn but if you are stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all the latest movies on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my gf lately =)
*Keith, thanks for the clarity about there being hollow channel carrying the weight of the saw frame, such that there is no chance for a fracture/crack to start in the fame. Yes, I wondered about why the choice of nut positioning, too.*
It all looks good Keith, its good to have younger guys interested in helping out in the shop, we could all use a Myles in our shops. I hope I spelled his name right.
Thanks for sharing your reasoning behind your design decisions, Keith. It's really helpful to see how the real world makes us change our "perfect" plans
It would look good if you got your pin stripping kit out and put some pinstripes on the spokes of the wheels on the bandsaw! That’s a nice looking saw, great job!
Funny story, I drove to Mooresville NC to pick up a band saw about that size in january, my dad found it on market place, only to arrive and figure out that the guy had no idea what he had, I bought a 100 year old English wheel from England for 300.00, dad still needs a band saw.
One of those welded nuts would be plenty strong enough to pick up the entire machine, so don't worry about them being on the top. Unless you doubt Kieth's welding skills, anyway. ;)
It is good to see an old product, well designed, stay in production for a long time, and then have a second lifetime. That said, I wonder if an upgrade kit to use all socket head cap screws would be popular?? Also, thanks for the grease fitting.
So many people worried about safety. This machine looks great the way it is- retrofitted guards always look terrible. I have a few open-belted machines (both vee and flat belt), and I would never puts guards on them. You just have to be careful and keep the dogs and cats out of the shop when in use. (That's actually my biggest worry- my Karger mill has a flat belt pulley that's the perfect height for grabbing tails!)
On my band saw, drill press, and on my router table, I added foot operated off-on power switches. The tool’s power plug is plugged into the foot operated power switch. If I am stepping onto the foot operated power switch, the tool runs. Foot off, the tool stops. If something goes wrong while I am operating the machine, I can jump away and the tool stops. I don’t have to get near the tool to shut it off.
I'd like to see the tires go on. Do you think they will go on easier than the ones you did on the bandsaw out at the museum 4 or 5 years ago? BTW the tips you showed in that video were very helpful when I put new tires on my 3 bandsaws over the last 3 years.
Something to organize the blade, although not original would bring peace of mind if it were ever to come off. An 18in Delta with guards is exciting enough.
Is Miles the same kid that helped you (along with his dad) run that big 4-side planer that ran on a flat belt off of the PTO of the tractor several years ago?
I always enjoy your presentation and information! Thank you for your effort. Any input regarding the side guides being made from solid material vs roller bearings? I use a band saw for mostly steel but also plastic and wood. I am trying to visualize the benefits of either. The back bearing of the Wright unit you so nicely show has a very big outer diameter but I don't know why that's better. The downside I'm seeing of roller bearing guides is that chips are more easily "pinched" in the gap but I don't know, is that relevant?
When you set up the electrical switches you might want to consider adding a foot control to power on the saw. I use one with one of my bandsaws and have found it very convenient when making cuts. Also if something starts going wrong with the cut I can take power from the saw much faster than having to hit a power swtich with my hands.
Keith, as well as getting motor controls from Grainger, you might want to look at automationdirect.com. These have motor controls and push button stations of decent quality that are probably a good bit cheaper than Grainger.
I've always admired the cyma or recta curves incorporated into spoke designs in some bandsaw wheels, but other than beauty, does anybody know if they serve a performance purpose as opposed to straight ones?
I always assumed that the curved design was to help prevent the spokes from cracking as they cooled at the foundry. It's just a guess of course but curved spokes can flex slightly while straight ones pull against each other if they cool at different rates. On the other hand there's a lot of cast wheels with straight spokes so I could be wrong.
Good to see this ol' gal moving along Keith! My old West Side Iron Works 36" bandsaw also came from the factory with No. 1 Wright Guides (similar to yours but smaller?) on top and the "meat & dry ice" style under the table. I tracked down replacement parts (via your Vintage Machinery site - of course!) for both being made by Jasper Parts Warehouse over in Oregon. www.jasperparts.com/guides.html#msg-box1-283 ... in case anyone needs parts. I also added some urethane tires for mine - yet to be installed... Curious to see what sort of blades at what sfm you will be using Keith. Mine has roughly an 18 ft long blade... suspect yours in roughly similar in length? Just love these BIG ol bandsaws... wanted one for years before finding mine locally in Idaho :)
BLADE GUARD: Earlier this year Jason (?) of Fireball Tools rebuilt a vintage bandsaw, very similar to yours, and designed new blade guards for the machine. It's a vintage design, artistic, and he may have the sheet metal design available to install on your machine. See YT "Giant Bandsaw Restoration Project Part 1 of 4", April 11, 2020. His retrofit blade guard is excellent. You really need safety guards around the blade. As you've heard numerous times, safety is no accident.
There's clearly a mounting for a read blade guard, and Keith might have the original. Certainly one is necessary there, as well as an upper guard where the blade comes down.
VERY good video with one problem I have. IE: I would have liked to see the unit ON the machine before you pulled it off the machine. Thus, I could not equate what was really going with out "picturing" the unit ON the machine. For what it's worth. Keith is one of THE greatest teachers on the web. But that is over showered with the fact that he is one of the nicest teachers on the Web; and that means it is full "bore" all the time. Oh indeed yes. May Jesus continue to bless this genius with gifts from Heaven that he so unselfishness when he shares it with us.
A bit of corrective criticism: please look at the camera lens as opposed to the view finder when making your presentation. When your eyes not focused directly at the lens but looking off to its side seems that you are addressing someone else, someone off camera.
Thanks Keith... you are making good progress with the band saw...
Thanks for sharing Keith
I LOVE that way that old bandsaw looks!
They made some really nice looking and long lasting machines back in the day, That Saw looks very nice.
Nice beastie Your Building Brings Back Memories
THANK YOU...for sharing. Saw restoration is looking really nice.
"In the short rows" ... One of my favorite expressions.
Dunno if anyone gives a damn but if you are stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all the latest movies on InstaFlixxer. I've been binge watching with my gf lately =)
@Benicio Kai definitely, been watching on InstaFlixxer for since december myself :D
I love the large spoked wheels on that machine. They are very elegant looking. Osha certified too!
*Keith, thanks for the clarity about there being hollow channel carrying the weight of the saw frame, such that there is no chance for a fracture/crack to start in the fame. Yes, I wondered about why the choice of nut positioning, too.*
It all looks good Keith, its good to have younger guys interested in helping out in the shop, we could all use a Myles in our shops. I hope I spelled his name right.
Thanks for sharing your reasoning behind your design decisions, Keith. It's really helpful to see how the real world makes us change our "perfect" plans
Wow! Great to get a little Rucker in the morning with coffee!
So much to unpack in this statement.
GREAT JOB, LET'S GO TO WORK... LOVE YOUR VIDEO...
Maybe woodwork will happen in that shop after all!!
it's looking really good. Can't wait to see it in operation!
Love watching these videos, I learn something new every time. Plus very entertaining.
Nice job Keith 👌🏼👌🏼
It would look good if you got your pin stripping kit out and put some pinstripes on the spokes of the wheels on the bandsaw! That’s a nice looking saw, great job!
Yeah yellow on black would be nice.
Funny story, I drove to Mooresville NC to pick up a band saw about that size in january, my dad found it on market place, only to arrive and figure out that the guy had no idea what he had, I bought a 100 year old English wheel from England for 300.00, dad still needs a band saw.
One of those welded nuts would be plenty strong enough to pick up the entire machine, so don't worry about them being on the top. Unless you doubt Kieth's welding skills, anyway. ;)
The nuts on the bottom might be stronger, but how strong is strong enough...
Enjoyed
Thanks for sharing!
It is good to see an old product, well designed, stay in production for a long time, and then have a second lifetime. That said, I wonder if an upgrade kit to use all socket head cap screws would be popular?? Also, thanks for the grease fitting.
Just look at that machine! It is gorgeous. It’s a piece of art.
Thanks for sharing
So many people worried about safety. This machine looks great the way it is- retrofitted guards always look terrible. I have a few open-belted machines (both vee and flat belt), and I would never puts guards on them. You just have to be careful and keep the dogs and cats out of the shop when in use. (That's actually my biggest worry- my Karger mill has a flat belt pulley that's the perfect height for grabbing tails!)
Good stuff very helpful
I don't think we've ever met Miles. It's time to get him on camera!
On my band saw, drill press, and on my router table, I added foot operated off-on power switches. The tool’s power plug is plugged into the foot operated power switch. If I am stepping onto the foot operated power switch, the tool runs. Foot off, the tool stops. If something goes wrong while I am operating the machine, I can jump away and the tool stops. I don’t have to get near the tool to shut it off.
What blade speed will you use? Do you plan on doing the motor to lower wheel drive shaft speed reduction with a single belt or with jack shaft(s)?
Looks good keith very steam punk looking :)
Are you going to install guards over the upper and lower wheels and the exposed bandsaw blade on the left side?
Those are great looking guides, but I prefer guides that have a roller bearing on either side of the blade.
Hey Keith, any stoker engine work coming up?
I'd like to see the tires go on. Do you think they will go on easier than the ones you did on the bandsaw out at the museum 4 or 5 years ago? BTW the tips you showed in that video were very helpful when I put new tires on my 3 bandsaws over the last 3 years.
Something to organize the blade, although not original would bring peace of mind if it were ever to come off. An 18in Delta with guards is exciting enough.
Curious as to your choice of the Wright slide block guide over say the Carter bearing style guide. Would really like to hear your thoughts.
Are there any plans to add guarding for the blade and the drive belt? Just concerned about your safety. I really enjoy your channel.
I take it the Wright guides have pre-greased bearings ? Saw the grease fitting looked dry.
Good morning from St John Parish, Louisiana 14 Aug 20.
Top of the morning from France to you Bill.
I think Fireball modified one of those not too long ago.minimal edit to the base, just strapped on a lot of, well, safety.
i could use something like this on my 1915 crescent 20! where would you suggest i look?
Is Miles the same kid that helped you (along with his dad) run that big 4-side planer that ran on a flat belt off of the PTO of the tractor several years ago?
Without a guard around the blade, that is what I would call a " man eater "....tear a fellow up real good.
I see what look like mountings for a back blade guard that just isn't installed yet.
I always enjoy your presentation and information! Thank you for your effort. Any input regarding the side guides being made from solid material vs roller bearings? I use a band saw for mostly steel but also plastic and wood. I am trying to visualize the benefits of either. The back bearing of the Wright unit you so nicely show has a very big outer diameter but I don't know why that's better. The downside I'm seeing of roller bearing guides is that chips are more easily "pinched" in the gap but I don't know, is that relevant?
100 views in the first 4 minutes... You know when your doung something right.
Nice!! Lookin' good... :-)
When you set up the electrical switches you might want to consider adding a foot control to power on the saw. I use one with one of my bandsaws and have found it very convenient when making cuts. Also if something starts going wrong with the cut I can take power from the saw much faster than having to hit a power swtich with my hands.
Perhaps consider a soft start for that motor with an integral brake.
How do you control the speed? Is there a step pulley or gearbox? If not, do you want to consider a VFD?
Keith, as well as getting motor controls from Grainger, you might want to look at automationdirect.com. These have motor controls and push button stations of decent quality that are probably a good bit cheaper than Grainger.
I've used a lot of Automation Direct. Good stuff and a good support service. Pricing is very good, ship fast. They are located in GA (I think.)
I honestly use Grainger as a last resort. Automation Direct and McMaster are generally always cheaper for the same quality of parts.
Hiya Keith
I've always admired the cyma or recta curves incorporated into spoke designs in some bandsaw wheels, but other than beauty, does anybody know if they serve a performance purpose as opposed to straight ones?
I always assumed that the curved design was to help prevent the spokes from cracking as they cooled at the foundry. It's just a guess of course but curved spokes can flex slightly while straight ones pull against each other if they cool at different rates. On the other hand there's a lot of cast wheels with straight spokes so I could be wrong.
@@markmossinghoff8185 I'll go with your theory for starters, sounds good to me.☺
Does that monster have a blade guard?
Or is it just operated "four sheets to the wind"...
Nice bandsaw tho... :D
Blade guard? Wasn't invented yet... this was likely built before OSHA existed.
Yes, but is it the Wright tool for the job? 🤔
I think square bolts look so cool for some reason, wish they were still used today.
I think they look cool partly because they're _not_ used these days. A real vintage look.
FYI...........Modern guides made in the USA from Paddock tool.
like your videos just one thing, was that a Zerk fitting on the replaced backer bearing?? maybe hit it with a little grease so it doesn't run dry.
there's a decent chance it's a sealed bearing
It should be pre-loaded with grease.
Good to see this ol' gal moving along Keith! My old West Side Iron Works 36" bandsaw also came from the factory with No. 1 Wright Guides (similar to yours but smaller?) on top and the "meat & dry ice" style under the table. I tracked down replacement parts (via your Vintage Machinery site - of course!) for both being made by Jasper Parts Warehouse over in Oregon. www.jasperparts.com/guides.html#msg-box1-283 ... in case anyone needs parts. I also added some urethane tires for mine - yet to be installed... Curious to see what sort of blades at what sfm you will be using Keith. Mine has roughly an 18 ft long blade... suspect yours in roughly similar in length? Just love these BIG ol bandsaws... wanted one for years before finding mine locally in Idaho :)
The back bearing appeared to have a seal on it,yet there is a grease zerk,is it for looks or will it supply grease to the thrust bearing🤗
are you going to make guards for the wheels or leave them open
Fireball Tool made huge guards for an old bandsaw with his CNC cutter-worth a watch.
@@madisonian50 already saw it thats why i asked if keith was going to do it.i think it needs it
Probably simpler to build a cage around the blade side. That way the saw is not modified from its original design.
richard zeeman if you put a cage on it. It’s not the way it came IE modified.
BLADE GUARD: Earlier this year Jason (?) of Fireball Tools rebuilt a vintage bandsaw, very similar to yours, and designed new blade guards for the machine. It's a vintage design, artistic, and he may have the sheet metal design available to install on your machine. See YT "Giant Bandsaw Restoration Project Part 1 of 4", April 11, 2020. His retrofit blade guard is excellent. You really need safety guards around the blade. As you've heard numerous times, safety is no accident.
There's clearly a mounting for a read blade guard, and Keith might have the original. Certainly one is necessary there, as well as an upper guard where the blade comes down.
Good morning Keith, I’ve been waiting
You could add cages to prevent body parts from getting caught in the drive belt and blade.
Is there sheet metal missing or will the blade be exposed both front & back?
A lot of these pre WW1 band saws did not have guards like today but most had them fitted later when industrial safety was being looked at generaly.
VERY good video with one problem I have. IE: I would have liked to see the unit ON the machine before you pulled it off the machine. Thus, I could not equate what was really going with out "picturing" the unit ON the machine.
For what it's worth.
Keith is one of THE greatest teachers on the web. But that is over showered with the fact that he is one of the nicest teachers on the Web; and that means it is full "bore" all the time. Oh indeed yes.
May Jesus continue to bless this genius with gifts from Heaven that he so unselfishness when he shares it with us.
Protection ?!!!
A bit of corrective criticism: please look at the camera lens as opposed to the view finder when making your presentation. When your eyes not focused directly at the lens but looking off to its side seems that you are addressing someone else, someone off camera.
Did anyone else read this as "wrist-band saw-guides" at first? I thought 'no way is that safe!'
No, you're the only one.
That thing wouldn't even fit in my garage/shop.
Looking good.