Keith is a wise younger man than I. I never heard about gluing them, but before I do anything new I research things. Seems like if a tire is over certain size they should be glued with different types of rubber. I've always took extra care with may bandsaw keeping them clean after each use for the last 30 years and never replaced, and they still have life. After reading all I could find with tons of web pages, including Keiths website in the 90's. Special guns for this also, Wise Man Keith. Great video
For accurate small batches of epoxy if you don't have pumps is to use plastic teaspoons. I save them from takeout. Works great. Guessing with blobs just does not seem accurate enough. Never even thought of using adhesive the one time I did this.
Perfect timing. Sometime in the next few weeks I'll be installing the rubber tires on my 32" Crescent and your method of mounting the rubber tire is great! I recognize the glue bottle so we bought from the same place......
Keith - this is an absolutely fascinating video! I have worked on a lot of equipment but I would never have known how to get one of those tires mounted. Thanks so much for sharing your expertise and know-how!
I just replaced a tire on my 26" Crescent. I didn't want to make a mess on the old girl with epoxy so I used Pilobond and it worked great! I was worried that I might run out half way through so I bought 3 tubes at an ounce each ... but I finished with just one!
Pretty thin tire on that band saw. First one I ever did was Vulcanized onto the wheel and was over an 1" thick. All I would say that if you use Keiths method just mark the tire to match the spokes on the wheel. 6 spoke wheel 6 marks equally spaced around the tire. That way you can judge the stretch and equalize it during the process. That way it is a lot rounder and probably wont need to be dressed.
I don't know if it's as easy as you made it look, but it relieved some of my fear of replacing the tires on my saw. I have a 20 year old Laguna that's going to need new tires sooner than later.
Nice trick with the stick to space the tire from the wheel! I did not know epoxy glue will stick to rubber... would have guessed some special rubber adhesive would have to be used like the stuff used for weatherstripping on vehicles.
used 3M 1300L oil resistant contact cement,,is the glue I used in rubber leading edge de-iser boots on the Douglas DC-4 's etc, has held for many years now, still in regular use.
Wow! Rubber looks a lot easier than the urethane replacements I put on my (much smaller) bandsaw. They were a bear! Hopefully they will outlast me. Thanks for sharing. Cheers! 🍻👍🏻😊
Seems the "rubber" tires are a heck of a lot easier to install then polyurethane tires. I changed tires on my 17" band saw and it was like a circus and a boxing match all in one. I had to heat the tires up in some boiling water to even come close to getting them to fit. And even with that heat it was like fighting an alligator... Thumbs Up!
Same here. The polyurethane was darn near impossible. So tight, I did not bother with glue of any kind. Didn't even know glue was needed for any replacement.
I apologize for this comment but is anyone else not getting email notifications regarding newly posted video's for this and other channels. BTW like the video can't wait to see the old saw in action.
Hi Keith, I have been watching your videos I love vintage wood working machines all the time I hear about band saw rubber or polyurethane tyres. There are bandsaws that don't have rubber tyres and the blade runs directly on the steel or cast iron can you give any idea how they work, but I have seen them working quite OK. Would like to hear your opinion on this. Thanks
Epoxides are flexible as well when they are formulated to be as such. That spoxy he is using is designed and formulated to be flexible and to actually crosslink with the rubber to provide chemical "tooth."
Epoxy seems like wild overkill to hold the tire in place. I think a tube of any construction adhesive would be fine. On the other hand that's a pretty powerful saw.
Did I miss something? I was hoping to see the motor install and see the phase-type and power and how it connects to the drive shaft. I enjoyed the video and guess in the old days a similar technique was used in fitting a tyre (UK) tire to a cycle Penny Farthing bicycle!
He did a video on building the mounting frame that holds the motor to the band saw frame. So far he hasn't done any wiring. He mentioned in the last video that he has to get a motor starter and a push button unit, so I assume that will be coming someday.
glue is needed just because of the size?i never put glue when i change tires on my 14 inch bandsaw.and i watched other restoration on big bandsaws and they didn't use glue
I was just thinking the same thing. I dont think the glue is needed at all. The glue would be for the cheaper bandsaws that have a flat surfact. My 16 bandsaw tires have not moved at all in seven years. I think glue is needed for non rubber tires. The rubber will find its own equalibrium with the blade on and most likely come loose from epoxy anyways.
glue is fairly standard regardless of the diameter to keep from slipping or drifting to the side and popping off. I have never seen epoxy used. I use yellow wood glue, easy to clean up next time you change the tire. The only time I am aware of where glue is not used is where there is a groove on the wheel and specialized tires to utilize that groove (Inca did this)
@@doremifabrications320 Are your bandsaw wheels ferrous, though? Every time I have put yellow wood glue on steel, it holds ok, but it makes the steel rust pretty bad where it touches. I suspect there would be lots of nice red rust under there when you go to replace that tire and scrape off the glue. I imagine rubber cement would be the way to go, when it is even necessary. When he mentioned purchasing the tires and the epoxy from a woodworking store, I assumed it was some special formula made for this. In hindsight, that doesn't sound particularly likely.
You don’t need a lot of rubber on those wheels just a fine layer so the belt stays taught and it’s cambered to keep the belt at the top of the wheel running good luck you may have to sand sharp in the rubber if there’s to much ,
Interesting. I wondered about epoxy when you mentioned it. Sounded awfully permanent for attaching a consumable. Lots of discussion and disagreement. Speaking of “attaching”, as you wiped off the excess squeeze out I was wondering if you would wind up gluing the stick to your fingers! Thanks again.
@@zumbazumba1 They actually overhang. Only one width of blade is ever run 1 1/4". Tension is very high to provide enough traction for the steel on steel drive. Never a tracking issue. Will cut uniform 1/8" x 8.5" veneers. We widebelt the veneers to take the kerf fuzz off. Used for making arched casings & jambs, door skins. Will tilt for beveled work. Hydraulic feed for as fast as you can handle.
I have empathy for you on this job. I replaced the tires a couple of times on Delta band saws (12" I think, don't remember) when I was teaching. The saws were running awful when I got there and were neglected . I didn't glue the tires on either. It was like trying to wrestle a monkey putting them on the wheel. About like changing a tire on a riding mower. I was teaching 8th graders and there were always little hands turning knobs or trying to make make abrupt turns.
Keep in mind that it is generally harder to install tires of any sort on smaller hubs than larger, since you have to stretch the tire proportionally more on the smaller wheel.
I really hope you do not make some cheap plywood cover for the wheels. IF you must make something I would suggest a grill type that looks more original than something flat. I am curious how the table works on that bandsaw though. I do know that it is a very good idea to balance wheels after you have done tires and run the blade a few minutes. They can get out of balance and cause vibration.
It would be easier if you had just started some way further down the strap and worked to the end. Not a big thing but it would have been easier. Thanks for the video's they are always great
Really and truly there needs to be no crown on the drive wheel, only on the top wheel where the adjustment is, with a properly adjusted bandsaw blade, the teeth should run over the crown and not have blade run equidistant to the edges. This is because of the set put into the blade to made cut wider than the blades thickness and the slight angle created coming over the crown gives the contact side of the alternate setting of the teeth to sit over the edge and not dig into the rubber tyre. Well that's the theory anyway lol
I don't know what glue the manufacturer used on the wheels of the bandsaw at my mom's house, but it doesn't look like something I can easily remove. Eventually I'll get the new tires installed.
Keith, Love what you do. I learn from everything you do, even when it has nothing to do with what you are presenting, I wish my shop was close to you as I would be Obliged to interact with ya..... Keep it up.
Dan Kathy Seefeldt, do you mean the foundry kiln and the two ice cream machines? Or the Monarch 10EE and the Air Compressor shed with the airlines? Or the planer and the stoker engine that I knew you were talking about! Or what did I miss, he’s got a lot going on!
I do trust Keith's judgement in these matters, but I have never glued a bandsaw tire either. All of the ones I have replaced did not seem glued as much as they were more or less fused to the wheels after years of use.
I have two bandsaws both are at least 50 years old and neither have ever had any glue on the tires. I worked in many machine and maintenance shops and have never seen glue used on bandsaw tires or even heard of it. This sounds like something someone came up with for selling more glue.
@Some Guy Okay, that makes more sense. I'd much rather use rubber cement than epoxy for this, because rubber cement can be removed with solvent while epoxy would have to be abraded/sanded off.
To set up the band saw, see this video by Alex Snodgrass, ua-cam.com/video/wGbZqWac0jU/v-deo.html setting up your bandsaw like this enabled me to cut multiple 1mm veneers from a 12" x 18" piece of stock. no drift, no drama it just worked. This was on an Axminster trade saw that couldnt cut a straight line in 2" stock. Thank you Alex. Enjoy.
Its hard to think to breath while straining doing a job. I noticed you holding your breath when pulling and then end up breathing hard to catch up. I always tell my self-" breath" while doing a tough job. Usually forget. ha
Cristian Conrads Rather than trying to restate everything, here’s a good explanation of the band “turning towards the crown”. woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html
On the 13th of August UA-cam turned off email notifications for computer users. There is very little point in being subscribed, if we won't get notified... that stupid little bell on in the UA-cam screen isn't going to do it. Every creator, who wants to keep his subscribers, should insist that UA-cam brings these notifications back. (and kick the idiot that dreamt up this daft idea out on the street!) . Paddy
The reason for the tire "crown" is so that the center of the blade runs on the tire, while the blade teeth are actually NOT in contact with the rubber.
The crown keeps the blade on the wheel..............a bicycle turns to the centre of the road because of the "crown". About bicycles..............if you want to veer right you start off by turning left momentarily......................hard to believe, but think about it before exploding!!!
Worst band saw tire video ever. You left out the tire snaps on the fingers, the second and third methods, the multiple attempts, and the required swearing. Lol.
@@rrabbit1960 Question Woody, did the cussing attract the Missus into the shed to enquire what the hell was going on? When I change the tyres on my 630mm, the wife nearly always shows up to ask about the swearing. Getting to the point it's the only way I know the job is done right is when she walks in the door.
@@petert3355 I'm not married but my grown kids who live with me sometimes show up. They're pretty used to it by now but my son does ask if I need help. LOL
No kidding! At 5:00 I was thinking "that's never going to work" then at 6:00 it was..."OK, never mind." That's why I watch videos instead of making them.
Errrr.... Keith. One comment mate. Watch your fingers when doing this. I know its only rubber but I'm guessing that you could still get pinched doing this.
The band saw wheels are much wider than the typical 1/8", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" or 1/2" wide band saw blade. Your idea of running the blade off the front edge of the wheel is totally not workable. The blade would be popping off the wheel every time you started the machine.
I never get tired of your videos.
Turn one end of that 1" dowel down to 1/2". You can then chuck it in a drill and run it around the tire several times to equalize the stretch.
boy it’s great to know you still can get new tries for any old band saw. Know all I need is to find one.
Thank you Keith
I like Keith's grin towards the finish because he knows his bandsaw too is "going to rock."
That is one ELEGANT unique built saw!
Keith is a wise younger man than I. I never heard about gluing them, but before I do anything new I research things. Seems like if a tire is over certain size they should be glued with different types of rubber. I've always took extra care with may bandsaw keeping them clean after each use for the last 30 years and never replaced, and they still have life. After reading all I could find with tons of web pages, including Keiths website in the 90's.
Special guns for this also, Wise Man Keith. Great video
For accurate small batches of epoxy if you don't have pumps is to use plastic teaspoons. I save them from takeout. Works great. Guessing with blobs just does not seem accurate enough. Never even thought of using adhesive the one time I did this.
Perfect timing. Sometime in the next few weeks I'll be installing the rubber tires on my 32" Crescent and your method of mounting the rubber tire is great! I recognize the glue bottle so we bought from the same place......
Keith - this is an absolutely fascinating video! I have worked on a lot of equipment but I would never have known how to get one of those tires mounted. Thanks so much for sharing your expertise and know-how!
I have many bandsaws and I discovered many years ago that good electrical tape or duct tape make better tires than rubber.
I just replaced a tire on my 26" Crescent. I didn't want to make a mess on the old girl with epoxy so I used Pilobond and it worked great! I was worried that I might run out half way through so I bought 3 tubes at an ounce each ... but I finished with just one!
Thank for sharing Keith
Nice bandmill
THANK YOU...for sharing. Enjoyed.
I like using band wheels with a crown built into them.
The dowel rod is a brilliant idea.
Pretty thin tire on that band saw. First one I ever did was Vulcanized onto the wheel and was over an 1" thick. All I would say that if you use Keiths method just mark the tire to match the spokes on the wheel. 6 spoke wheel 6 marks equally spaced around the tire. That way you can judge the stretch and equalize it during the process. That way it is a lot rounder and probably wont need to be dressed.
I have many bandsaws and I discovered many years ago that good electrical tape or duct tape make better tires than rubber.
yes, only DRY wood@@dazaspc
Thanks once again for letting us look over your shoulder,enjoyed this video. 🤗🤗🤗🤗
Thanks for sharing!
good job
I've been watching for years, keep up the great videos in your new shop!
Hi Keith,
I watched quite a few UA-camrs putting rubber tires on their band saw but never seen one go on so easy... Well done...
Take care
Paul,,
I've replace a couple of tire sets over the years and have never glued them in place.
Nice work. What you did reminded me of the days when I rebuilt C-130/54H60 propellers. Similar circumstances.
Neat trick with the dowel to even out the tension on the wheel!
Well Done
that is a beastly beastly saw.
That is a beautiful old saw. Good job on the restoration.
wire ties work great
Hiya Keith
LOL... I needed my assistant (wife) to assist me on installation of the tires on my 20” powermatic, I used contact cement as the glue method
Interesting!
I don't know if it's as easy as you made it look, but it relieved some of my fear of replacing the tires on my saw. I have a 20 year old Laguna that's going to need new tires sooner than later.
As always Kieth, a very informative and enjoyable video. Great tip to get the epoxy in place. Thanks.
Nice trick with the stick to space the tire from the wheel! I did not know epoxy glue will stick to rubber... would have guessed some special rubber adhesive would have to be used like the stuff used for weatherstripping on vehicles.
used 3M 1300L oil resistant contact cement,,is the glue I used in rubber leading edge de-iser boots on the Douglas DC-4 's etc, has held for many years now, still in regular use.
Thank you sir for another great video!
Gracias por su trabajo.
Wow! Rubber looks a lot easier than the urethane replacements I put on my (much smaller) bandsaw. They were a bear! Hopefully they will outlast me. Thanks for sharing. Cheers! 🍻👍🏻😊
grafvonstauffenburg The bandsaw tires weren’t too pricey.
Nice!!
Seems the "rubber" tires are a heck of a lot easier to install then polyurethane tires. I changed tires on my 17" band saw and it was like a circus and a boxing match all in one. I had to heat the tires up in some boiling water to even come close to getting them to fit. And even with that heat it was like fighting an alligator... Thumbs Up!
The Co. worked for sent the wheels out to a specialist to have this done just had to make sure to have a spare.
Same here. The polyurethane was darn near impossible. So tight, I did not bother with glue of any kind. Didn't even know glue was needed for any replacement.
The zip tie and screwdriver method is pretty good. I have used it with good results on poly tyres.
Good man! I most definitely speak in tongues in those situations.
I have a Harbor Freight horizontal bandsaw. It has no rubber tire on it. Should I put tires on it?
Anybody have experience with this?
Thanks
Frank
Hi Keith, hope you would continue show us how you mount and align the motor drive and belt pulleys to this band saw, thanks!
I apologize for this comment but is anyone else not getting email notifications regarding newly posted video's for this and other channels. BTW like the video can't wait to see the old saw in action.
Hi Keith, I have been watching your videos I love vintage wood working machines all the time I hear about band saw rubber or polyurethane tyres. There are bandsaws that don't have rubber tyres and the blade runs directly on the steel or cast iron can you give any idea how they work, but I have seen them working quite OK. Would like to hear your opinion on this. Thanks
I wish I had a job rebuilding old machines. Ground up. You don't even have to pay me much, and I'll bring my own tools.
Looks like a comfortable project to do in August now that shop has AC. Any updates on how AC is doing?
Glueing rubber to cast iron contact adhesive is better because it's flexible!
Epoxides are flexible as well when they are formulated to be as such. That spoxy he is using is designed and formulated to be flexible and to actually crosslink with the rubber to provide chemical "tooth."
Epoxy seems like wild overkill to hold the tire in place. I think a tube of any construction adhesive would be fine. On the other hand that's a pretty powerful saw.
Did I miss something? I was hoping to see the motor install and see the phase-type and power and how it connects to the drive shaft. I enjoyed the video and guess in the old days a similar technique was used in fitting a tyre (UK) tire to a cycle Penny Farthing bicycle!
He did a video on building the mounting frame that holds the motor to the band saw frame. So far he hasn't done any wiring. He mentioned in the last video that he has to get a motor starter and a push button unit, so I assume that will be coming someday.
Clever way of applying the glue. Btw is mineral spirits same as white spirit ??
hmm I used Pliobond on my tires 30? yrs ago. It worked fine- no mixing etc
Are there any guards for the wheels? Thanks for the videos.
what of the stoker????
Ok, how many takes did it take to get the lower tire on in one try? Nobody gets it the first time. My hats off to you if you did sir.
glue is needed just because of the size?i never put glue when i change tires on my 14 inch bandsaw.and i watched other restoration on big bandsaws and they didn't use glue
I was just thinking the same thing. I dont think the glue is needed at all. The glue would be for the cheaper bandsaws that have a flat surfact. My 16 bandsaw tires have not moved at all in seven years. I think glue is needed for non rubber tires. The rubber will find its own equalibrium with the blade on and most likely come loose from epoxy anyways.
@@jacilynns6330 yes if I was doing this I would use contact adhesive or rubber adhesive.
@@johnmccallum8512 what would be the point? Its rubber on cast iron once its settled its effectively glued and wont move.
glue is fairly standard regardless of the diameter to keep from slipping or drifting to the side and popping off. I have never seen epoxy used. I use yellow wood glue, easy to clean up next time you change the tire. The only time I am aware of where glue is not used is where there is a groove on the wheel and specialized tires to utilize that groove (Inca did this)
@@doremifabrications320 Are your bandsaw wheels ferrous, though? Every time I have put yellow wood glue on steel, it holds ok, but it makes the steel rust pretty bad where it touches. I suspect there would be lots of nice red rust under there when you go to replace that tire and scrape off the glue.
I imagine rubber cement would be the way to go, when it is even necessary. When he mentioned purchasing the tires and the epoxy from a woodworking store, I assumed it was some special formula made for this. In hindsight, that doesn't sound particularly likely.
Keith, Great video I wonder if your band saw is the same as Jason’s at Fire Ball Tool.?. Thanks for sharing your video.!.!.!.
You don’t need a lot of rubber on those wheels just a fine layer so the belt stays taught and it’s cambered to keep the belt at the top of the wheel running good luck you may have to sand sharp in the rubber if there’s to much ,
Interesting. I wondered about epoxy when you mentioned it. Sounded awfully permanent for attaching a consumable. Lots of discussion and disagreement. Speaking of “attaching”, as you wiped off the excess squeeze out I was wondering if you would wind up gluing the stick to your fingers! Thanks again.
Coincidentally, I put new tires on my bandsaw just 2 days ago.
Wish I had seen this 8 years ago when I put urethane tires on my 14 inch saw. Took two of us, some profanity and an hour to get them on.
I personally would not have used mineral spirits on natural rubber. It makes it swell and will interfere with the epoxy bond.
I've got a Baker band resaw, no tires. Blade runs directly on the steel wheels. 20hp and have never known it to slip.
Do teeth run on wheel or do they stick out of it?
@@zumbazumba1 They actually overhang. Only one width of blade is ever run 1 1/4". Tension is very high to provide enough traction for the steel on steel drive. Never a tracking issue. Will cut uniform 1/8" x 8.5" veneers. We widebelt the veneers to take the kerf fuzz off. Used for making arched casings & jambs, door skins. Will tilt for beveled work. Hydraulic feed for as fast as you can handle.
I feel a great deal of empathy for that band saw. It is now retired and so am I.
You made a video about installing a tyre on a bandsaw about yourself... Very impressive.
I have empathy for you on this job. I replaced the tires a couple of times on Delta band saws (12" I think, don't remember) when I was teaching. The saws were running awful when I got there and were neglected . I didn't glue the tires on either. It was like trying to wrestle a monkey putting them on the wheel. About like changing a tire on a riding mower. I was teaching 8th graders and there were always little hands turning knobs or trying to make make abrupt turns.
However, it's a quality video like all your presentations.
Keep in mind that it is generally harder to install tires of any sort on smaller hubs than larger, since you have to stretch the tire proportionally more on the smaller wheel.
Keith, you are the BEST TEACHER on you tube. You are smart and most of all your videos are clean. My bet is that you are a Christian.
I really hope you do not make some cheap plywood cover for the wheels. IF you must make something I would suggest a grill type that looks more original than something flat. I am curious how the table works on that bandsaw though.
I do know that it is a very good idea to balance wheels after you have done tires and run the blade a few minutes. They can get out of balance and cause vibration.
It would be easier if you had just started some way further down the strap and worked to the end. Not a big thing but it would have been easier. Thanks for the video's they are always great
Really and truly there needs to be no crown on the drive wheel, only on the top wheel where the adjustment is, with a properly adjusted bandsaw blade, the teeth should run over the crown and not have blade run equidistant to the edges. This is because of the set put into the blade to made cut wider than the blades thickness and the slight angle created coming over the crown gives the contact side of the alternate setting of the teeth to sit over the edge and not dig into the rubber tyre. Well that's the theory anyway lol
If you have flat wheels you can buy crowned tires these days. More uniform than hand sanding.
where can u buy crowned tyres??
I don't know what glue the manufacturer used on the wheels of the bandsaw at my mom's house, but it doesn't look like something I can easily remove. Eventually I'll get the new tires installed.
That was the easy tire, the top one will be a bear with only one person. Clamps to the rescue.
The tire on my bandsaw is made of leather.
Ok
Never saw anyone use glue.
Now you have had your 1st experience. Lol
Step 1. Grow a set of beefy forearms like Uncle Keith
Keith, Love what you do. I learn from everything you do, even when it has nothing to do with what you are presenting, I wish my shop was close to you as I would be Obliged to interact with ya..... Keep it up.
What's happened to your other two projects?
Dan Kathy Seefeldt, do you mean the foundry kiln and the two ice cream machines? Or the Monarch 10EE and the Air Compressor shed with the airlines? Or the planer and the stoker engine that I knew you were talking about! Or what did I miss, he’s got a lot going on!
I don't think that epoxy is really necessary here. It's not like the rubber will ever slip or something.
I was expecting something like rubber cement/Pliobond but perhaps they want something that cures rather than dries.
I do trust Keith's judgement in these matters, but I have never glued a bandsaw tire either. All of the ones I have replaced did not seem glued as much as they were more or less fused to the wheels after years of use.
Thunderstruck you do however need to glue tires to the rims when doing burnouts!
I have two bandsaws both are at least 50 years old and neither have ever had any glue on the tires. I worked in many machine and maintenance shops and have never seen glue used on bandsaw tires or even heard of it. This sounds like something someone came up with for selling more glue.
@Some Guy Okay, that makes more sense. I'd much rather use rubber cement than epoxy for this, because rubber cement can be removed with solvent while epoxy would have to be abraded/sanded off.
Matthias Wandell (woodgears.ca) made a great video on why crowning works.
To set up the band saw, see this video by Alex Snodgrass, ua-cam.com/video/wGbZqWac0jU/v-deo.html setting up your bandsaw like this enabled me to cut multiple 1mm veneers from a 12" x 18" piece of stock. no drift, no drama it just worked. This was on an Axminster trade saw that couldnt cut a straight line in 2" stock. Thank you Alex. Enjoy.
Glue is absolutely not necessary. However it is your saw. Do as you wish.
Its hard to think to breath while straining doing a job. I noticed you holding your breath when pulling and then end up breathing hard to catch up. I always tell my self-" breath" while doing a tough job. Usually forget. ha
I'm just wondering, Keith, why you didn't use contact cement?
Did he put it on backwards, or inside out? I'mm pretty sure it's on backwards.
I would be upset if I had to change the tires on an old bandsaw and someone had glued them in place with epoxy.
I would sell the saw if I had to remove that much opoxy
No need for epoxy/glue
Why does it need to be crown? Is a bit counter intuitive.
the saw blade then will stay in the middle.
Very counter intuitive at first glance, however, that is how flat drives work. Works for belts, blades, conveyors, etc.
Cristian Conrads Rather than trying to restate everything, here’s a good explanation of the band “turning towards the crown”. woodgears.ca/bandsaw/crowned_pulleys.html
Glue?? Why? Never heard, or used, any such silliness in over fifty years of woodworking! Stick to metal.
This is not a metal bandsaw !
On the 13th of August UA-cam turned off email notifications for computer users.
There is very little point in being subscribed, if we won't get notified... that stupid little bell on in the UA-cam screen isn't going to do it.
Every creator, who wants to keep his subscribers, should insist that UA-cam brings these notifications back. (and kick the idiot that dreamt up this daft idea out on the street!) .
Paddy
The reason for the tire "crown" is so that the center of the blade runs on the tire, while the blade teeth are actually NOT in contact with the rubber.
no
The crown keeps the blade on the wheel..............a bicycle turns to the centre of the road because of the "crown". About bicycles..............if you want to veer right you start off by turning left momentarily......................hard to believe, but think about it before exploding!!!
epoxy sensitivity is a thing. Never handle wet epoxy with bare fingers.
Damn man, simple job but you seem exhausted.
Just saying.
Worst band saw tire video ever. You left out the tire snaps on the fingers, the second and third methods, the multiple attempts, and the required swearing.
Lol.
LOL I was thinking the same thing! I cussed both my 12" Craftsman and the 14" Delta.
@@rrabbit1960 Question Woody, did the cussing attract the Missus into the shed to enquire what the hell was going on?
When I change the tyres on my 630mm, the wife nearly always shows up to ask about the swearing. Getting to the point it's the only way I know the job is done right is when she walks in the door.
@@petert3355 I'm not married but my grown kids who live with me sometimes show up. They're pretty used to it by now but my son does ask if I need help. LOL
No kidding! At 5:00 I was thinking "that's never going to work" then at 6:00 it was..."OK, never mind." That's why I watch videos instead of making them.
I was teaching during my band-saw tire battles so I had to contain it the best I could.
Damn Rucker! Use gloves when doing epoxy.
is this job really toxic with all the stuff you are breathing in
I got two spot lol but what difference does it make who got one you night owls
8 likes so not #1
Errrr.... Keith. One comment mate.
Watch your fingers when doing this. I know its only rubber but I'm guessing that you could still get pinched doing this.
Dull? I'd be more worried about the tooth set. At that rubber tires or not you should run your teeth off the front of the wheel.
The band saw wheels are much wider than the typical 1/8", 1/4", 5/16", 3/8" or 1/2" wide band saw blade. Your idea of running the blade off the front edge of the wheel is totally not workable. The blade would be popping off the wheel every time you started the machine.
I would have thought it would have had quality vulcanised and ground tyers, pretty low quality fix