Left or right you move the rest towards the broadhead, I just did it. Your field point will move towards the broadhead, you'll have to move the sight later but you want both to group together.
Yup you’re right, I just got lighted nocks and it was pinching. In the middle of this video I paused it, went out to the garage, opened up the D loop and now they are hitting same place. Will the loop work it’s way back to pinching? Thank you Josh and Dan. My favorite you tube channel.
A broadhead hitting left of field point would indicate a nock right through paper, correct? And you would correct a nock right through paper by moving the rest to the LEFT, correct? Why would you do the opposite for a broadhead hitting left of field points?
I’m not a pro shop owner, what he is saying is correct for broadhead tuning. With that said I’ve tuned countless bows for the last twenty years. For me personally I’d never screw up my paper tune to get field points and B heads to hit together. All things being correct, spine/point weight, marginal form and a decent shot process, there’s no reason why field points and B heads shouldn’t hit together at decent distance. FWIW I’ve got Magnus stingers and NAP Thunderheads hitting together out to 80. After that, the broad heads start hitting a little low but I don’t worry about that at all.
I agree with you and Disagree w Josh.. If my broached is hitting left of my field point...Im moving my rest to the LEFT to bring the point of impact together for filed point and BH... Once the POI is the same, I will move my sight housing until they both hit bullseye. Not sure why he suggests moving it the other way, but that has NEVER worked for me
Would love to hear what MFJJ has to say about vane selection / configuration for different broadhead sizes & weights. This year I bare shaft tuned my bow out to 40 yards before broadhead tuning (so I know it wasn't a wheeling or timing issue). I was getting left BH impact of my FP when I started checking my broadheads. I ended up going from a 3-Fletch Max Stealth to a 4-Fletch Max Hunter to see if it was a steering issue. I'm shooting a 150 grain VPA 3-Blade head this year, which is the heaviest head I've ever shot. Anyway, that change in vane setup fixed my issue, but I'm no expert and didn't test a ton of different configurations. My arrows is noticeably louder now too, hopefully it wont be an issue.
Awesome video but I disagree with Josh. If bh impacts left of fp, then you bump your rest to the left. I make most of the correction with yolk tuning on my bowtech and final touches on the rest. Have just gone through this exercise. Goldtip tuning guide also confirms this method.
So what does it mean when I shoot a broadhead 4 inches low at 20 I turn the nock 180 degrees and it shoots perfect now. I've done that on all my arrows seems to work.
This is such an interesting topic, when it come to broadhead impact left or right, I’ve seen from “reliable sources” on UA-cam that you move the rest field point to broadhead and on up and down impacts broadheads towards field points! I’m going to do some tinkering on this myself and I would love a complete video of you going through this process! Great stuff!
Inside out precession I think, I've had both work in the past. Try just a little one way then the other. I that doesn't work yoke tune or shim depending on your bow.
Yup , insideout, I’ve always done it his way and it’s worked for me! It’s just wild seeing that people doing it the opposite way and getting good results
I think it just shows that the arrow is coming off slightly different than when your arrow has a field point. So in some situations a smidge left helps and in other situations a smidge right. Because if it was enough to be a “tail left” tear causing you to move rest right you never had a paper tune to begin with right?
At 4:30 mfjj says to back your bow down 5_10lb to test if your arrow is to stiff, that is wrong! That changes the load on the cable guard and will change the torque on the bow and will not give a good indication of arrow spine
Great video as always. I guess reading all the comments confused me. I'm shooting right w broadheads from field points, never had that issue before but these are solid QAD Exodus heads so I can understand. My question is, should I move the rest left as in description or was that corrected and thus why comments below are different? Thanks guys.
Now that Texas ASA shoots are over all my energy is in setting up everything for this coming season. NEVER TOO EARLY TO “ ABT”. Testing a different broadheads just for wild hogs. ( or a deer if it shows up too lol). Enjoyed this video guys. At TAC be sure and call out the yardage with animal close up video please
Thanks for the content. Comment for Josh about the draw board...straight line pull VS staggered pull. Would like to hear more about this. You made mention of one of your videos, but I can't find one dedicated to the subject - were you just referring to the fact that we see your staggered draw board in the video?
Full circle right back to RIP TKOs I see…Been back ordered for the past 8 months here in Canada. What was your opinion on the 4mm Axis? Really need to get my moose arrows dialed in before season starts. Will be shooting 125 QAD Exodus full blade.
Dude I've been going back and forth with this so much. There's people that do both and get rid of their issues. My broadhead is hitting right, but based on what I've seen I'm still moving my rest left.
When you move the rest left, the point of impact is going to also move left. Once you have them hitting together, adjust your sight to bring point of impact back to center. I’ve found that once I achieve a perfect bullet hole through paper at 20’, no other adjustments are necessary, broadheads are dead on with field tips.
HELP! I am new to archery, I went to broad head tune today and my BH arrow (iron will 100s) was impacting 9-12 inches to the right of my FT. I tried 2 different arrows with different spines. My draw is a 31.5 inch and my arrow/s are 32.5 inch 200 5mm Easton axis and 250 4mm long range Easton axis. I tried micro adjusting my rest( hamskea) but it’s cranked all the way. Because the BH was impacting right I was moving the micro adjust to the right but like I said ran out of room. I was shooting at 20 yards and my arrows looked like I was throwing a slider. Not sure where to go from here. Any help is appreciated!
So what your saying is me lobbying left overs arrows and the cheapest amazon 6 pack broadhead I can get, isnt the right way? But if it works, is it really wrong? Good stuff
I am continually surprised that archery is not a more popular sport in the United States. It is a technical, physical, and mental activity, so its appeal should be more widespread. Additionally, I find it fascinating when intellects get involved in archery and really delve into its technical aspects. I went to high school with a Microsoft executive - if he went into archery, instead of computers, our bows would be shooting faster and with less noise and vibration.
Isn't the "Gold tip trad 600 quarter-sert" actually a half out insert like the Victory Shok half out's? Wondering why you chose the Gold Tip over Victory or instead going with HIT insert with a collar?
So there’s a fella who claims on his channel to make the opposite adjustment you suggest here! As a newbie this is confusing as hell. At about 1:50 you say to move rest right in the first example. He would say move left. Most videos I’ve seen say move rest opposite where BH hits. Sighting in pins, yes move pin towards where arrow hits, in BH tuning move rest opposite- so as you say, if BH left, move rest right. Can you explain this guys insistence his position?
I got confused too. I was having this issue, BH hitting 3-4" left. So I moved my rest to the right and it did bring my field points and BH closer, so I thought I was good. Then I was getting erratic flight with my arrows. Nothing was consistent. So I went back to paper and started paper tuning with BH. I ended up having to move my rest to the left to get bullet holes with the BH.
do you see an elevation difference with BH at very long range from tuning or just from BH drag? always seemed that even with a well tuned bow, my BHs will tend to favor low after 70
Right hand shooter and my broadheads are hitting 2-3” right of my field points any advice? Bow was bought new and setup by SVA beginning of the year. Arrow is a rip tko 250 spine 495 grain total weight. Check nock pinch it has ever so slight movement.
Talking about to weak of spine for the weight up front . I have 30” draw an pull 68# with A 29 1/2 arrow I shoot 125 heads on a 300 spine what max insert weight I can add without being to weak . In your opinion lol.
Dan...why aren't you shooting the FF SK-2 that JJ and TC are shooting instead of the AAE Max Hunter? Did you by chance test them with your Iron Will's?
Paper tuning is only the beginning to know that the bow is tuned properly to you, cam lean, timing…… all that. It is not the end game to hang your hat on. Once the bow is tuned you can then get to nock tuning, insert tuning, bare shaft tuning so you know that all your arrows are leaving the bow properly with the spine aligned correctly. You can get all your bare shafts to travel square out of your paper tuned bow without moving the rest at all. Once you’ve done this 99% of the time the broad heads fly where the field points go because you’ve tuned your arrows. If you do have to make a very small adjustment, don’t get hung up on it. All we has hunters need to worry about is that our broad heads go where we aim, not weather or not we changed the paper tune that was only a beginning phase of tuning. Paper tuning is not about the rest. The rest should be set at center shot and the cams adjusted to accomplish the tune for the most part. Getting it all hitting the same spot is the ultimate tune. Bow is tuned arrows are tuned, leaving the bow straight, not wobbling thus the arrow drives all its energy into the animal and the broad heads fly straight because the arrow is going true without the fletchings having to work hard. sure beats having to change your sights to go hunting when using fixed blades just because your afraid to change the paper tune that was only a starting point anyway.
LOL,,,Dan: "Why don't you use the Iron Will on both ? ,,,,Because I want to use this one on antelope,and this one on elk. I do what I want and you do what you want" ,,,,,fucking classic, love it to death. Gotta say, Dan and Josh do the leg work getting things set up. Josh has an innate understanding of archery and tuning and timing cams. Back in the day, when all bows had twin cams, and we had no drawboards, we'd stand in a mirror and draw and creep forward, creep tune, to watch for cam orientation. It worked, but getting those overdraw 2413 Easton XX75's to paper tune was tedious. I don't miss those days. Not really that long ago, maybe 20-25 years ago ? Mathews Solo cam had much to do with fixing that I suppose ?
hey there, love your channel,, can you answer a question four me or atleast your opinion that ive asked almost ery body that has an arrow building ,shooting ,foc youtube chanel,, and even the company that makes and sales them ''No body answers me or some have no experience with them''' im talkin bout the spinning inserts sold by Ethics Archery that claim 'and' have videos up saying that the inserts make broadheads shoot exactly like field points,, now im not tryin ta bash E A I love and still yuse there products' just would like ta here an honest answer'' keep up the good work,, thanx.,.
Would you say those smaller max hunters are easier or harder to fletch with the max helical? (I have a same AZ jig.) I’m in between both and am thinking since I am not as confident in my tuning I may want a little more fletch to give me a tiny bit more leeway in case I don’t tune everything perfectly.
If you bare shaft tune,nock tune and are shooting bullet holes. And bare shafts are hitting the same as fletched arrows at 20. Why would you move anything,if my broadheads are only hitting a inch or so why not just move sights. I wouldn’t think moving your sights would detune anything.
So I’ve tried a lot of different movements and I cannot get rid of a high left impact from my broadheads I shoot a solution ss 60 lbs in comfort mode 31” draw length right handed full length victory xv gamers .350 spine I squared everything and everything is spinning true. I’m running a black eagle 49 gn ss insert and a 125 grain slick trick 4 blade total arrow weight is 409 do you all have any recommendations?
My gosh. Josh says the opposite thing on lefts and rights every broadhead tuning video he does. 😆. have him put out a video telling everyone the CORRECT way. Follow the BH on L/R. BH hits right of FP means tail left means move rest RIGHT.
yeah i saw the latest, good to know he corrected himself. maybe edit this video quickly or even change the title to (SEE NEWEST VIDEO, THIS ONE IS INCORRECT). I'm just saying if ppl stumble across this w/o seeing right away it is wrong they may end up wasting countless hours tuning. I watch all your videos and MFJJ's, they are great. this one just caught me by surprise cuz MFJJ was incorrect.
Left or right you move the rest towards the broadhead, I just did it. Your field point will move towards the broadhead, you'll have to move the sight later but you want both to group together.
"It gets harder the older you get" -Josh Jones
Words of wisdom
🤣
What are we talking about here... let me ask the wife.
Awesome content. Just bought my tickets for Elk Shape camp in Arizona. Super pumped.
Dan's comment "I do what I want - you do what you want" really resonates with me. All about liberty.
I have been waiting for this video for weeks! Stoked to finally see what you’re doing Dan. And thanks for the tuning info!
This is perfect, Been nervous for broadhead tuning and getting it wrong. Great video.
You can do it!
I've barely learned how to shoot and I've watched so many of your videos that get way more technical than my skill level, but it's still good stuff.
Man this was so helpful. Ran lighted noccks last year and could not figure out why they wouldn't tune. Now I know. Thank you thank you
Hey guys....if you bareshaft tune first......99.9% of the time that's all you need for broadheads to fly perfect.
Another positive using Iron Will Bills field points is due to the shape they don't penetrate as far. Much easier to remove!! They are awesome!
Right on
Yup you’re right, I just got lighted nocks and it was pinching. In the middle of this video I paused it, went out to the garage, opened up the D loop and now they are hitting same place. Will the loop work it’s way back to pinching? Thank you Josh and Dan. My favorite you tube channel.
If you're shooting a short ata bow I would highly suggest serving in nock points. I tie them on every bow I set up.
Ok,...I'll be watching this several times,.........amazing info!!
Thanks for showing us all the tinkering. Always helpful.
Appreciate you watching!
A broadhead hitting left of field point would indicate a nock right through paper, correct? And you would correct a nock right through paper by moving the rest to the LEFT, correct? Why would you do the opposite for a broadhead hitting left of field points?
You are correct.
Good question...
I’m not a pro shop owner, what he is saying is correct for broadhead tuning.
With that said I’ve tuned countless bows for the last twenty years. For me personally I’d never screw up my paper tune to get field points and B heads to hit together.
All things being correct, spine/point weight, marginal form and a decent shot process, there’s no reason why field points and B heads shouldn’t hit together at decent distance. FWIW I’ve got Magnus stingers and NAP Thunderheads hitting together out to 80. After that, the broad heads start hitting a little low but I don’t worry about that at all.
I agree with you and Disagree w Josh.. If my broached is hitting left of my field point...Im moving my rest to the LEFT to bring the point of impact together for filed point and BH... Once the POI is the same, I will move my sight housing until they both hit bullseye. Not sure why he suggests moving it the other way, but that has NEVER worked for me
@@TheSchmuel do you always agree with people who are wrong?
What are you drawing!?? Woah! Lolol 🤣😂🤣
Thank you guys helping me so much my first year bow I’m not touching a gun this year 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Would love to hear what MFJJ has to say about vane selection / configuration for different broadhead sizes & weights.
This year I bare shaft tuned my bow out to 40 yards before broadhead tuning (so I know it wasn't a wheeling or timing issue). I was getting left BH impact of my FP when I started checking my broadheads. I ended up going from a 3-Fletch Max Stealth to a 4-Fletch Max Hunter to see if it was a steering issue. I'm shooting a 150 grain VPA 3-Blade head this year, which is the heaviest head I've ever shot. Anyway, that change in vane setup fixed my issue, but I'm no expert and didn't test a ton of different configurations. My arrows is noticeably louder now too, hopefully it wont be an issue.
EXTREMELY helpful, guys.
Glad to hear it!
Love the video, really love the thumbnail! Dan looking like”feeling cute today.. might kill and elk later idk..”
Lol!!
Awesome video but I disagree with Josh. If bh impacts left of fp, then you bump your rest to the left. I make most of the correction with yolk tuning on my bowtech and final touches on the rest. Have just gone through this exercise. Goldtip tuning guide also confirms this method.
So what does it mean when I shoot a broadhead 4 inches low at 20 I turn the nock 180 degrees and it shoots perfect now. I've done that on all my arrows seems to work.
This is such an interesting topic, when it come to broadhead impact left or right, I’ve seen from “reliable sources” on UA-cam that you move the rest field point to broadhead and on up and down impacts broadheads towards field points! I’m going to do some tinkering on this myself and I would love a complete video of you going through this process! Great stuff!
Inside out precession I think, I've had both work in the past. Try just a little one way then the other. I that doesn't work yoke tune or shim depending on your bow.
Yup , insideout, I’ve always done it his way and it’s worked for me! It’s just wild seeing that people doing it the opposite way and getting good results
Inside Out Precision, Tim Gillingham, etc all say treat it like a paper tear. Nock right tear, move rest left.
@@stick__shooter
I've honestly had both work at one time or another. Lol
I think it just shows that the arrow is coming off slightly different than when your arrow has a field point. So in some situations a smidge left helps and in other situations a smidge right. Because if it was enough to be a “tail left” tear causing you to move rest right you never had a paper tune to begin with right?
At 4:30 mfjj says to back your bow down 5_10lb to test if your arrow is to stiff, that is wrong! That changes the load on the cable guard and will change the torque on the bow and will not give a good indication of arrow spine
Great video as always. I guess reading all the comments confused me. I'm shooting right w broadheads from field points, never had that issue before but these are solid QAD Exodus heads so I can understand. My question is, should I move the rest left as in description or was that corrected and thus why comments below are different? Thanks guys.
Literally a perfect video, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
quality, yes. content, not so much.
Now that Texas ASA shoots are over all my energy is in setting up everything for this coming season. NEVER TOO EARLY TO “ ABT”. Testing a different broadheads just for wild hogs. ( or a deer if it shows up too lol). Enjoyed this video guys. At TAC be sure and call out the yardage with animal close up video please
Thanks for the content.
Comment for Josh about the draw board...straight line pull VS staggered pull. Would like to hear more about this. You made mention of one of your videos, but I can't find one dedicated to the subject - were you just referring to the fact that we see your staggered draw board in the video?
Thank you for this. Perfect timing
So glad!
Full circle right back to RIP TKOs I see…Been back ordered for the past 8 months here in Canada. What was your opinion on the 4mm Axis? Really need to get my moose arrows dialed in before season starts. Will be shooting 125 QAD Exodus full blade.
The VAP SS elite 4mm is an amazing arrow. May be little pricier and not sure about availability tho. I paired mine with Ethics inserts and sleeve
Broadhead left of field point = nock right tear. Move fletched to broadhead.
Dude I've been going back and forth with this so much. There's people that do both and get rid of their issues. My broadhead is hitting right, but based on what I've seen I'm still moving my rest left.
If it doesn't work then ig we just go the other way
When you move the rest left, the point of impact is going to also move left. Once you have them hitting together, adjust your sight to bring point of impact back to center. I’ve found that once I achieve a perfect bullet hole through paper at 20’, no other adjustments are necessary, broadheads are dead on with field tips.
@@alexgrier9869 correct
Can’t wait to see you TAC
Awesome stuff man! Looking forward to seeing how the iron will perform on a elk, they look awesome seem to work good from what I have heard
You and me both!
Great video! Thank you 🙏
Good vid Dan. Let us know how that Elk arrow works out.. Do a necropsy if possible.
Think it's funny I have the same deer hunting arrow setup, minus the fletchings and the broadhead weight (I use the 100gr version).
Word!
Great video as usual!!! What weight are those Iron Will???
That Dan shooting montage goes hard
✊✊
HELP! I am new to archery, I went to broad head tune today and my BH arrow (iron will 100s) was impacting 9-12 inches to the right of my FT. I tried 2 different arrows with different spines. My draw is a 31.5 inch and my arrow/s are 32.5 inch 200 5mm Easton axis and 250 4mm long range Easton axis. I tried micro adjusting my rest( hamskea) but it’s cranked all the way. Because the BH was impacting right I was moving the micro adjust to the right but like I said ran out of room. I was shooting at 20 yards and my arrows looked like I was throwing a slider. Not sure where to go from here. Any help is appreciated!
Cool vid. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
At what distance would you say the it's not ethical to shoot an elk with your setup? Or at what point does the arrow lose the kinetic energy ?
That is totally up to the person shooting
What is the difference between a crossbow broadhead and irregular Broadhead
What’s the length of the exposed portion of the half outsert of the gold tip insert. I can’t seem to find product dimensions anywhere? Thanks!
Roughly half an inch - tc
If your broadhead hits left of the field point that means you are nock right indicating you actually need to move the rest left, not right
that is what i have always seen as well. the internet is split on it !
That’s correct, how they explain it is just changing the poi but you really need to fix how the arrow is coming out of the bow
@@jaygolliday8152 agree 100%
If your nock right why would you move your rest to the left which would have your arrows coming out even more nock right.
@@KTMsoldier1988 because it’ll bring the nock in-line with the point of the arrow
So what your saying is me lobbying left overs arrows and the cheapest amazon 6 pack broadhead I can get, isnt the right way? But if it works, is it really wrong? Good stuff
I am continually surprised that archery is not a more popular sport in the United States. It is a technical, physical, and mental activity, so its appeal should be more widespread. Additionally, I find it fascinating when intellects get involved in archery and really delve into its technical aspects. I went to high school with a Microsoft executive - if he went into archery, instead of computers, our bows would be shooting faster and with less noise and vibration.
Physical key word
Isn't the "Gold tip trad 600 quarter-sert" actually a half out insert like the Victory Shok half out's? Wondering why you chose the Gold Tip over Victory or instead going with HIT insert with a collar?
So there’s a fella who claims on his channel to make the opposite adjustment you suggest here! As a newbie this is confusing as hell. At about 1:50 you say to move rest right in the first example. He would say move left. Most videos I’ve seen say move rest opposite where BH hits. Sighting in pins, yes move pin towards where arrow hits, in BH tuning move rest opposite- so as you say, if BH left, move rest right. Can you explain this guys insistence his position?
Josh has worked in an archery shop for 30 years - we trust his judgment
I absolutely agree. My intent is not to criticize anyone, only to try and understand logic and disparities from a newbies standpoint😊
I got confused too. I was having this issue, BH hitting 3-4" left. So I moved my rest to the right and it did bring my field points and BH closer, so I thought I was good. Then I was getting erratic flight with my arrows. Nothing was consistent. So I went back to paper and started paper tuning with BH. I ended up having to move my rest to the left to get bullet holes with the BH.
Can I use 125 grain sevr for elk?
Dan, whats your thoughts on Grimreaper razortip 1 3/8 or proseries 1 3/8 for whitetail? Thanks
do you see an elevation difference with BH at very long range from tuning or just from BH drag? always seemed that even with a well tuned bow, my BHs will tend to favor low after 70
Mainly drag at 70+ -DS
Right hand shooter and my broadheads are hitting 2-3” right of my field points any advice? Bow was bought new and setup by SVA beginning of the year. Arrow is a rip tko 250 spine 495 grain total weight. Check nock pinch it has ever so slight movement.
I would be interested to see the same breakdown but for bare shaft vs field point for 3d / target
Was their noticeable flight differences between the Max Stealth and Max Hunter with an Iron Will on the tip?
Talking about to weak of spine for the weight up front . I have 30” draw an pull 68# with A 29 1/2 arrow I shoot 125 heads on a 300 spine what max insert weight I can add without being to weak . In your opinion lol.
What did you use for the insert and sleeve on the riptko
What release were you running
Have you ever used the day six evo broadhead to harvest an animal? if so how did it perform?
We have not
I was waiting to hear “ micro hades” lmao
Dan...why aren't you shooting the FF SK-2 that JJ and TC are shooting instead of the AAE Max Hunter? Did you by chance test them with your Iron Will's?
ABT
At what distance 20 , 30 40 yards ? should you start at when tuning broad heads to the target
Start close like we said and did in the video... 20, 30, 40...etc GOOD LUCK! -Dan
Where can I get those inserts ?
I assume you would nock tune every broad head correct?
if it's not flying, yes
Dan's 109 yard group is better than my 50 yard group lol
Will moving the rest to get the broad head to hit the same place as the field point affect the paper tune
Paper tuning is only the beginning to know that the bow is tuned properly to you, cam lean, timing…… all that. It is not the end game to hang your hat on.
Once the bow is tuned you can then get to nock tuning, insert tuning, bare shaft tuning so you know that all your arrows are leaving the bow properly with the spine aligned correctly. You can get all your bare shafts to travel square out of your paper tuned bow without moving the rest at all. Once you’ve done this 99% of the time the broad heads fly where the field points go because you’ve tuned your arrows.
If you do have to make a very small adjustment, don’t get hung up on it. All we has hunters need to worry about is that our broad heads go where we aim, not weather or not we changed the paper tune that was only a beginning phase of tuning. Paper tuning is not about the rest. The rest should be set at center shot and the cams adjusted to accomplish the tune for the most part.
Getting it all hitting the same spot is the ultimate tune. Bow is tuned arrows are tuned, leaving the bow straight, not wobbling thus the arrow drives all its energy into the animal and the broad heads fly straight because the arrow is going true without the fletchings having to work hard. sure beats having to change your sights to go hunting when using fixed blades just because your afraid to change the paper tune that was only a starting point anyway.
Why don’t you just set up your v3x 33 for deer and keep the 29 for elk for speed and kinetic energy. Then you have two bows
29 is a money fit
LOL,,,Dan: "Why don't you use the Iron Will on both ? ,,,,Because I want to use this one on antelope,and this one on elk. I do what I want and you do what you want" ,,,,,fucking classic, love it to death. Gotta say, Dan and Josh do the leg work getting things set up. Josh has an innate understanding of archery and tuning and timing cams. Back in the day, when all bows had twin cams, and we had no drawboards, we'd stand in a mirror and draw and creep forward, creep tune, to watch for cam orientation. It worked, but getting those overdraw 2413 Easton XX75's to paper tune was tedious. I don't miss those days. Not really that long ago, maybe 20-25 years ago ? Mathews Solo cam had much to do with fixing that I suppose ?
ABT
@@ElkShape Thats too new age phase ology for this old timer.
hey there, love your channel,, can you answer a question four me or atleast your opinion that ive asked almost ery body that has an arrow building ,shooting ,foc youtube chanel,, and even the company that makes and sales them ''No body answers me or some have no experience with them''' im talkin bout the spinning inserts sold by Ethics Archery that claim 'and' have videos up saying that the inserts make broadheads shoot exactly like field points,, now im not tryin ta bash E A I love and still yuse there products' just would like ta here an honest answer'' keep up the good work,, thanx.,.
What insert was in the rip tko? I couldn't find one for the 300 spine
I think he is running a gold tip .204 traditional classic insert
Would you say those smaller max hunters are easier or harder to fletch with the max helical? (I have a same AZ jig.) I’m in between both and am thinking since I am not as confident in my tuning I may want a little more fletch to give me a tiny bit more leeway in case I don’t tune everything perfectly.
I do the max hunters with the Arizona mini max left helical and have no problems fletching
Agreed - piece of cake! -Dan
Can you show how to shorten your arrow if the insert is already glued in?
Cut off of the back end of the arrow. You would obviously have to re fletch at that point.
use hot melt to start so you can always pull it out and cut from that end. If not, you'll have to cut off fletchings and cut from the back.
What they said....or bash them with a hammer and buy new ones. There's options.
If you bare shaft tune,nock tune and are shooting bullet holes. And bare shafts are hitting the same as fletched arrows at 20. Why would you move anything,if my broadheads are only hitting a inch or so why not just move sights. I wouldn’t think moving your sights would detune anything.
So I’ve tried a lot of different movements and I cannot get rid of a high left impact from my broadheads I shoot a solution ss 60 lbs in comfort mode 31” draw length right handed full length victory xv gamers .350 spine I squared everything and everything is spinning true. I’m running a black eagle 49 gn ss insert and a 125 grain slick trick 4 blade total arrow weight is 409 do you all have any recommendations?
Did you try dropping your weight and seeing if that fixes it? If so, then you have a spine issue. If not, no clue. 🤷♂️
@@JedlyMT I tried lowering both draw weight and tip weight no change
Could be spine then. Try a 300 spine or 250. I shoot 70#s, 29" draw, 200 grain broadheads, and 250 spined arrows. They fly straight.
Archery is so complex! And MFJJ is a genius!
Not a genius, doesn't even know how to broadhead tune. If broadhead is left you move the rest left.
My gosh. Josh says the opposite thing on lefts and rights every broadhead tuning video he does. 😆. have him put out a video telling everyone the CORRECT way. Follow the BH on L/R. BH hits right of FP means tail left means move rest RIGHT.
We address that is our most recent broadhead tuning video! ua-cam.com/video/64K-hIX-yMs/v-deo.htmlsi=6QIYzGuLICByJKEu
yeah i saw the latest, good to know he corrected himself. maybe edit this video quickly or even change the title to (SEE NEWEST VIDEO, THIS ONE IS INCORRECT). I'm just saying if ppl stumble across this w/o seeing right away it is wrong they may end up wasting countless hours tuning. I watch all your videos and MFJJ's, they are great. this one just caught me by surprise cuz MFJJ was incorrect.
Is the key to easy broadhead removal shooting over 100 yards lmao
Great except to music lol...🤘🏻
We get one of these comments ever so often, we get it bro, not all musical taste is shared, thanks for watching. -DS
U use to complain about single bevel now your gonna shoot them lol.