MORE POWER Makes The Difference!! Moving Rock For Shed Floor!
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- Опубліковано 24 тра 2022
- Moving rock for new shed floor! Tractor Time with Tim uses the John Deere 3046R to haul rock inside Dustin's new shed to prepare for concrete.
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I think that you have too many tractors and you should give me one.
I have never seen the logic in the state claiming jurisdiction over a Man-made pond. The waters of the state theory seems bogus, especially in the east where water rights are not an issue. Federal waters argument is a joke as it has zero impact on interstate commerce. Silting up a Man-made pond is the owners prerogative in my opinion or filling it back in. If an endangered or rare species has taken up residence I could see it. Otherwise it is just another taking by the government. Loved the puppy.
Governments will power grab anything and everything. This country needs a hard reset via outting any all existing scum. Soooo sick of local and state thinking they should have any say over my property! Freedom? Only what 'THEY' have to give you. And that is going to get smaller and smaller until all property is government owned and managed!
I agree. Like when birds build a nest in Peter Griffin's beard
Does water move through the pond into state waters? I can see the need to keep silt out of water ways in general. In the situation for this video, the hardening of the bank doesn’t make much sense since it’s a pond. Erosion won’t be an issues because the water isn’t really flowing. He said the riprap (hardening) was required for the building, but I don’t know why.
@@jamesmorgareidge farm ponds are not connected to streams except as an emergency overflow. Otherwise they would require all sorts of permitting and 404 permits. Similarly they are not enlarged playa lakes nor natural ponds. They are excavations made to collect water. They get regulated when they are determined to be wetlands which means they are supposed to have soil that looks like those that have been wet for several years, have plants that only grow in water logged soil, and are a certain size. Legally the state has to prove that. Few states do and judges just accept the regulators are right even though they have never been to the pond. Looking at regulated wetland maps in California and Arizona you will see thousands of rectangular wet lands. Look at an aerial photo and you will see they are swimming pools. Which meet none of the criteria. Thus the judges in those states should throw out any pretense of agency expertise. The stone is used to slow runoff carrying sediment so it will settle out before it reaches the pond. Since there is no outlet the pond acts as one of the best sediment traps there is. The state should be happy you put it in and say nothing more is needed to keep sediment out of state waters. They are just over zealous people who don't understand why things are done and what the intent of the laws really are. The wetlands rule is legally there to filter water going to the waters of the state. The farm pond does that in spades. I am certified to design erosion control measures in MD. You have to deal first with people that review the designs and often want you to install controls in case water decides to go uphill. Then you have inspectors that ensure that you follow the plans. It usually takes about 5 years for a new inspector to learn common sense and a few more before they will approve deviations from nonsensical plans. Believe me lots of money is spent needlessly. The rules for protecting natural lakes and streams make sense and I strongly support them. It is the regulation of non connected farm ponds that galls me and lack of understanding of the rules and regulations
No.
If that isn't the most beautiful, enviable compact tractor... what a machine
There's always a basement dweller looking for something to criticize. Ignor it. Just the way jealous people act around nice friendly happy people..I like your positive attitude. Think in the end it always turns out nice. Really enjoy your videos. Thank you!
Like watching you work the equipment.
Loving this project inspiring me to build a pole barn using my 3033r
Good job Tim I think you do a awesome job picking up material for job site really appreciate you buddy 👍
Beautiful building!!.. Very envious.. Tim, your new DEERE is really set up nice as a loader tractor.. Puppy is a cutie too.. Have a nice week..
Seems like they should have put the rip rap on the back end of the barn to close up that gap
I built a pole garage back in the late 70's and did not remove the top soil from under the concrete. In about 10 to 15 years into it's life the concrete, it settled about 1-1/2 inches and cracked very badly. I had about 8 to10 inches of stone on top of the top soil. I also did not run a plate compactor over it. With that in mind I recommend removing the top soil and run plate compactor over the stone. I love my 3R also.
We will definitely run a compactor over it. There is 3-4 ft of topsoil here. Would be quite costly and painful to remove all of that!
When i built my pole building i had them cut the sod out. I heard that it decomposes creates air gaps for settling. Im no expert but sounds reasonable.
@@TractorTimewithTim you dont need to remove all the top soil(though it is preferred), removed the sod, dig down about .2m, once that's done, compact the dirt, then ever .2m of fill needs to be compacted to achieve ideal results.
If you think it's expensive to remove the top soil, wait till you have to remove the cracked concrete and then the top soil. . . That's expensive.
If there's 3-4 feet of topsoil, it's probably because of the pond build. The organic layer should have been removed and larger stone put down as a base.
Going cheap only gets more expensive the longer you go cheap.
@@nuttsgt8394 there is 3-4 Ft of topsoil because we are in rich farmland in Indiana.
Cute cat and puppy. I could watch them all day.
Love this video, always enjoy you doing any tractor work with grading!
Loader bucket tip: don't curl immediately when trying to get a load. Slowly raise a level bucket while driving forward and the start to curl. Hope this is easy to understand and helps.
Certain loader models have less lift power than curl, so filling the bucket without curling may mean not being able to lift the boom. Therefore you do both together
I would suggest running a 3 ft wide band of stone around the perimeter of the building to keep from needing to mow/ weed wack against the building. I also would suggest putting a concrete apron in front of the overhead doors.
Just got my 3046R and used the loader for spreading 25 yards of mulch this past weekend. Love the a/c in the cab. I think for what you do a cab might not be as good for the UA-cam videos and communication with anyone outside the cab. Keep up the good work.
I just priced a 3046r. Cab is an extra $8,600 and the deluxe cab is an extra $11,200. Being comfortable is not cheap.
Definitely not, but I can tell you that it's great to have if you're blowing snow. Also better on your hearing unless you need to actively communicate. That engine can get decently loud at full throttle.
Nice job Tim..... GREAT video Tim.... like that 3R tractor 🚜 👌 😎
Great video that is a sweet tractor shop lookin good. I just enjoy watchin ya'll do tractor stuff I have 1626 Mahindra just love being on it doin anything especially bush hogging. Thanks for sharing
Good job Tim. Only thing I would have done different was go around the outside of the barn and put stone about two or three feet past the walls to form an apron to help hold the rocks in the barn, and to improve drainage off the walls and roof until h puts on gutters.
Great video as always. Wondering if you would think about doing a video on mix of fixes on a 1025R as problems come up for you. It would be helpful to your viewers with little knowledge of problems fixing. I do thank you for maybe thinking about it.
Love how the 3 Series all have the same hydraulic pumps and loader (unless you get the optional heavier loader).. very smooth and strong intermediate size tractors 👍
This is the strongest loader offered on 3R
Good video Tim!!
I like the 3R, you should do more with it in future videos. I'm casting my vote for the weight of the machine, I don't think 8-10 HP is enough to say that would make a huge difference in driving into the pile, but the extra weight will surely make a noticeable difference. Jealous of that building btw. Lol
Weight definitely important.
This machine could definitely push harder and lift/curl more.
@@TractorTimewithTim Absolutely, the hydraulics on the 3R are very good when compared to a 1 or 2 series.
While I am prepping for the concrete in My new 30x40 shed. I put scrap pieces of tin around the bottom and back filled to that on the outside. That way I am not gonna loose a lot of sand to the outside as I prep the base.
Thanks Guys..
Had a 3039R on order last year but delivery kept getting pushed back. Ended up with a 2038R which I am loving so far. I know its a small but just don't understand why the 3R's don't have the armrest. I have been very thankful so far that the 2038R does. Another great video.
2038r ergonomics are second to none!
I would have put up at least one more layer of backfill boards on that shed.
Where I'm at the stone yard sells ground up concrete makes the perfect fill and compacts like you wouldn't believe
It’s always fun to watch you working while I’m sitting here doing nothing 😉. Mmmm…maybe I should get busy. Blessings.
That tractor looks about perfect for that job. As you mentioned, the smaller ones will do it, but they struggle a bit. Nothing wrong with your technique, you obviously have all kinds of experience, but folks want to give you tips anyway!
I sure would like to have all that rock at my place, but like everything else it is getting costly!! Looks good Tim...
Something to consider when backdragging. Don't angle the bucket so aggressively, it puts unnecessary stress on the loader cylinders, then when about 3/4 through the back drag pop the loader into float and at the final part of the drag curl the front edge out of the drag to feather the material out. Leaves a very smooth finish with fewer passes. Great video and thanks for all the great content!
I seem to recall back in the late 90s when my parents had an extension put on our driveway, we just had the ankle turners aka #4 stones just dropped there by a local guy with an old Dodge L dump truck. Wasn't an issue even after the #2s were dumped by my uncle a year and change later. Almost thought we'd see the box blade or land plane for a minute.
May have been easier to pour the slab and then do the building, especially if electric is underground, it can go in through the slab, but we don't get snow here, LOL.
Another great video 👍 I hope the owner of that new building prepared for future electric and water with a conduit riser before the concrete floor goes in? Keep up the good work you two🤠
be sure and run a compactor as you mention in a previous comment ...and probably need to add some moisture also...it will compact significantly so grade will go down
I can't help but think the 5-series was the right tractor for this job.
I notice at 12:32 or so where your hydraulic coupler caps are hanging down. I've been told you should connect the male and female caps together to keep dirt out of them. Opinion?
I do that with my L3901 Facts !!!
👍 packing the rock is major issue, I think.
Tim, What RPM do you run your tractor at? I idle my 33R power reverser at 1500 because of the emissions and run it anywhere from 1500 to 2000 or higher.
I’m surprised you didn’t put more fill dirt in before adding rock. It would stabilize the ground so it wouldn’t move when the concrete is put in. Love seeing the 3R at work.
Yes. Should have extended the grade boards lower. , critters. Will undermine the concrete pad. WHEN pouring. Crete DO NOT let it flow under the grade board. Lots of issues will show up in time
I've been wanting to get a rock skeleton bucket for projects like your rip rap project to screen out the small rocks but I don't know if rip rap would tear up a bucket like that I guess that would depend on what manufacturer I went with I have been trying to do my homework on the best one for a while but I I would also use Mine like Mike Morgan does with Firewood
spent last weekend spreading over 20 yds of top soil in our yard and pulling nails/spikes and screws from an old recovered wooden fence....all in my TTwT tee shirt...It was dirty and and I was worn out.
I have always wonder about having ballast weight above the centerline of the axle, seems like it would add traction but reduce stability. It is more centered right to left but. seems high
Kudos for eventually raising the ROPS and role-modeling best practices for safety. I've heard say that you should carry your 3-point ballast as low as possible. Can you describe any time other than when driving on or off of the trailer that there is an advantage in having your ballast up high?
Ugh. I thought for once I had pleased a safety sally! But alas! I remain a 100% failure!
I wonder if there is EVER a way to please????
Tim you can come to Michigan and help me with stuff around my house my koiti won't fight the deere too much 😂
Do you think 73 is good enough to prevent the mud from absorbing it? I have a similar project underway and thinking about ordering larger rocks first for a base. I use my 3032E for the project and find it powerful enough for moving dirt and moving rocks.
I think it's a good idea to use larger rock first for a base. My contractor uncle would probably say the same.
I want a 3046R now haha
Everybody says with a DPF tractor, you should basically run it at WOT all the time to reduce soot loading. What say you? The problem with leaving sod and top soil is that is makes a terrible base. My BIL put his driveway over topsoil disregarding my instructions and he's had nothing but problems with it since. Everybody has a reason for what they do in life.
It my experience when putting up a new building, is that you typically level your site, before building.
Have a question, I have a 2021 John deere 3032E, is it possible to hollow out the dpf filter and run it open? Any codes ? Im having trouble with it and the dealership has had it several times.
Here in Texas a base rock would be put down and then a slab of concrete with J bolts. Then the building is built on the slab and bolted down the the J bolts that lock into the cement. I see up north east and west up north the pole barns are put into the ground then the base is considered after the building is completed. What ? No tooth Bar ?
Think the three sizes are the best size all around. Sometimes they are too big and sometimes too small.
Looks like there may have been enough clearance to dump just inside the doors then push to the back. Even if he could only dump part way then put the rest in the stock pile.
Customer got way more exercise than the man he hired. Well played Tim, well played.
Yep. …but another way of looking at it is: customer saved significant money because he did the leveling work.
I charge the same whether on a shovel or on the tractor.
So, put a huge (5series?) bucket on Johnny X and I'll be he could have done this job. Probably would need some epic amount of rear ballast, but it would be a fun video.
Putting stone directly over vegetation/topsoil? Right when I was typing this you mentioned it. Definitely want to have a nice prepared/compacted sub-grade - no question about it. Great videos though!
What is more compacted than untouched soil?
@@TractorTimewithTim Subsoil and/or compacted select borrow is better than topsoil and grass under stone/slab. Topsoil is organic and same with any vegetation - over time it will decompose and create voids - not much of an issue for the slab you are preparing for there, but the slab will crack over time (depending on the depth of the topsoil/overburden). That's partially why topsoil and/or overburden gets stripped - been building for over 30 years now - I know a little bit about it. Again, probably will be fine for that application with some minor cracking down the road - love your videos.
@@tombyorn8278 we have 4 feet of topsoil here :-)
Hard to picture this big dude with a puny Mazda. More of a TRUCK guy! ;)
thanks for sharing this video, that's a beautiful building but I don't understand why they put wood down in the ground. where I live it would be rotted out in one year termites would have a field day
Its treated lumber (bug and rot proof) .its called a pole barn ,they are cheep and fast to build!
Treated will buy you some more time, but nothing is bug and rot proof. I would have done metal brackets in concrete below grade and went up from there. To each their own.
Should have had 1-2 loads of dirt there to put around the outside of the building , so the stone on the inside doesn’t roll out
And a 4 in 1 bucket on the front than you wouldn’t have to pick up the rocks by hand
Hey Tim, is it me or does that MMM carrier/PTO assembly look very vulnerable under that 3046R? Looks like it hangs pretty low... nice video!
Yep. Hangs quite low
Hi guys long time watcher new subcriber :) just wondering since I have a new LX3310 now which I purchase right around the same time as you did. I was hoping for more comparison between the LX3310 and your jonny 3046R. Seem like your LX as been put into time out in the corner of the shed cause we never see much of it now.
This has been difficult decision for me. The LX3310 does not compare favorably to the 2038r at all.
Many orange fans get very upset when we point out these differences. They state that we are biased, hate Kubota, not testing fairly, etc.
So, we have simply decided to avoid most of this controversy.
We have pointed out our least favorite features of the LX3310. Specifically, the transmission ‘jerk’ every time you move is at the top of the list. Unacceptable to me, honestly!
We do plan to do a comparison of the 2 speed vs 3 speed transmission on the 2038r vs LX3310.
You mention the 3046r…the LX is not competitive at all against 3R. Better comparison is L4060…but 4060 is larger, so not good perfect comparison either.
@@TractorTimewithTim Thank you Tim, I'm not one to complain about how 2 machine compare at all :) I like my LX and I've experience the jerking you mention and it seem to be on both the LX2610 and 3310 now I already have 160 + hours on my tractor and it seem to be less and less or not as often so either its working itself out or I got better luck with my machine ? I really like the radius video you did I might start doing some videos myself on the LX, I had the B2620 before which I mod a fair bit. Thanks again and keep up the good work :)
My ears perked up when he said he had an older car he liked to tinker with and then when he said it was a 94 Mazda RX 7 I threw up a little bit in my mouth….
LOL!!!!! I hear ya...
I heard that too and was thinking he liked to tinker on a cool muscle car. Then he said a 94 Mazda. I chuckled too. Not what I was expecting.
Do you know of a seat replacement for a Massey gc 1725m preferably a suspension seat ???????
👍
what do you use for a level system?
Several. Topcon on our Amazon store, Amazon.com/shop/tractortimewithtim
Also a slope capable laser at CANAMEK.com use code ttwt for a five percent discount.
How did you know I was gonna comment about the sod always remove the sod and topsoil. It is organic material that decomposes and breaks down over time. Resulting in sinking stone or cracked concrete.
How did I know? Well, you and several others nit pick at nearly everything we do!
@@TractorTimewithTim Tim iam sorry I believe you have me confused with someone else. I have been watching your channel and enjoying it for a few years now. I have learned alot and seen alot of neat things. Honestly I only said how did you know because you said their would be some people that would say something. Sorry Tim and Christy I ment no harm.
No worries. Sorry about the offense.
@@TractorTimewithTim Thanks again for the video look forward to the next one.
It sounds like the RPM are way down when you are running the machine. It's my understanding that this is harder on an engine than running it at the recommended speed.
I would have bought a 3 series instead of a 2038R but I can not take the control handle for the loader. The 2038R and 1025R have superior cockpits for the operator.
Yes.
Tim found a rake that fits his hands, oh no!
I think Tim is getting up in age would appreciate a cab with heat and air conditioning. So would Kristy. She needs something for a camera car. 😁😁😁
What happened to your 5075E ?
I think the 3R is his newest toy and he hasn't had enough play time with it. Lol😆
I would of put the larger rif raf stone around the edges on the building has a more even slump just my opinion I have a yanmar 57hp here in the Philippines check me out
Time flies like an arrow, fruit flies like a banana.
Need a roller / compactor
if it was my building floor-i would of took the dirt out first,, and then laid that rock down in a way thinner amount, and rolled that in first for compaction. other than that great video.
Wow the Builder of the shed should have put another Pressure treated board or 2 around the bottom of that shed wall it looks dumb like that!!
Will put soil on the outside. No big deal.
Why didn't you have the dump truck dump the load inside the building?
Rock delivered before the building built. Check out our earlier episode moving some of the rip rap.
Also, woulda been very difficult to level a pile inside the building.
Tim you would have thought that they would have placed the building with the big door side towards the driveway and not like that cause what if he has a project that the breaks are not great and the project goes flying into the pool
Then brakes better be an early fix on any such project. 😉
🚜🚜🚜🚜😎😎😎👍
Clous you might be biting off more than you can chew.
You need a red tractor
Hate to work on that floor
I'd rather use a skid steer for inside a building. Easier to maneuver around in close quarters. So is a John Deere skid loader in your future? Talk it over with finance committee?
I didn't get it .... He piled gravel over the grass on one side of the barn but removed the grass from the other side ?
The ‘other side’. Was too high. Needed to be brought down some to allow for base material to be applied. The original side was plenty low, and did not need material removed.
@@TractorTimewithTim ... I understand now but the grass will grow thru the gravel and you'll have a mess
Nah, the grass won’t grow through ..
@@TractorTimewithTim ... Yes it will, it grows back in my drive way every few years , you'll see
Not inside the shed…UNDER the concrete.
Why didn't he have the rocks dumped in the garage??
Woulda been really hard to spread if inside. Also, she’s wasn’t there when rocks were dumped.
@@TractorTimewithTim They can spread it rocks as they dumped it. It still would need a little cleanup but at least it would be inside.
Ha! Not nearly large enough shed for that!
The reason you get comments about the way you operate the loader has nothing about the size of the tractor!!!! LOL.
Ah, thanks for your ‘kind’ words! …VERY kind ….
@@TractorTimewithTim your welcome.
I’m learning an important loader lesson: NEVER, EVER take the FEL loader frame off a JD 1025R without the bucket or forks attached to the frame. You will never get the frame reattached to the tractor. Nowhere in the manual can I find this warning. Without something attached to the loader frame to give some leverage, the frame will not seat into the loader towers and latch into place. I’m still experimenting and trying to get the FEL frame reattached. So far, no luck. Live and learn. Just a word to the wise.
Hmm. I’ve done it a few times. A bit awkward, but i got it back on. Maybe put some blocks under the loader arms to raise them a bit, and give them something to push down on.
the only wrong thing I seen here is you should have done the dirt work first so you could use less rock in one spot
in a few months hes gonna smell rotten grass you shouldve removed the grass inside the barn
Ha! “Smell rotten grass”. That is a good one!