Check out indystry.cc/indymill and subscribe to the newsletter to be up to date with IndyMill project! You can also find here a table with parts that I have as for now. What do you think about IndyMill? Can't wait to mill something with it :D
Hello Niko, glad to find this page, this is similar to something I would like to build, do you have drawings for the metal parts? Also how difficutlt would it be to expand this to 1m x 1m
Hi Nikodem, I'm looking for just the XY stage 1meter x 1meter and no Z axis. With Nema 34 motors. I'll be willing to discuss with you the pricing for it too. Please let me know how we can communicate further. I'm in the US in Las Vegas.
Some small tips: 1) don't restrict the machining method of your parts. You may find a CNC shop that can cut your material at a cheaper cost than laser, to similar accuracies. This is especially true if you wish to sell kits. 2) don't accept parts that have missing or wrongly made features or dimensions. When you send drawings and files to a manufacturer, make sure you have all of the following: .STEP file of your individual parts (dxf or dwg if laser files), 2d dimensioned drawings of each part, and an assembly drawing of your part if the parts are intended to be assembled on each other. This allows you to point out their machining faults (if any) as well as help them highlight issues they may face. You can't do this if they don't have your drawings. 3) you can get the fabrication house to clean and process the parts for you, such as filing or bead blasting to a desired textured finish. This can save time spent on paint prep. Really enjoy the video. Can't wait to watch the next one!
Thanks a lot! 1) That's true, I will do more research on that especially on water jet cutting. 2) Parts were perfectly fine except those small holes, but that wasn't a big deal. But it's true they could mention something about minimal hole diameter. 3) I know, but I enjoy making and it's always nice to do some more work with your own hands and play with tools :) Thanks! Can't wait too
Laser nie wytnie otworu mniejszego od grubości blachy jest to zależne od długości wpalenia , te które miałeś zrobione to pewnie było minimum na tym laserze. Water jet może byś droższy od lasera bo ma mniejszą prędkość cięcia a płacisz też za czas pracy maszyny musisz powysyłać zapytania do różnych firm, bo niestety nie wszystkie firmy chcą się bawić w pojedyncze zamówienia od osób prywatnych wolą firmy i też czasem jest próg przy jakiej minimalnej wartości zamówienia biorą zlecenie.
@@nikodembartnik I owned a business and had two waterjet machines. They are great for a lot of things, especially thick materials that a laser won't cut, but you'll never beat a laser for speed and accuracy in steels under 1" thick with a waterjet. I cut everything from stainless steel and aluminum, to wood, granite countertops, and even large rocks. Mostly though, I cut multiple sheets (at the same time) of aircraft aluminum, to make aircraft sheetmetal parts. I enjoyed your video and look forward to the rest of this build!
I think what you're doing is amazing. I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to show people what you're doing and being brave enough to share it. The way you go through everything and the presentation of your videos is excellent. I'm thinking of building my own CNC machine, not a kit one like you see everywhere, but my own design. My thought process was a lot like yours: combine aluminium and 3D printed parts, but I have no experience with 3D printing yet. Your new design has inspired me - I'd been thinking about using 3d-printed prototype parts in place of simple 2D aluminium parts that can be cut on a fibre laser, and you've completely solidified the idea in my head.
Hello ! I watched all the videos of this part and they are just amazing ! The machine came out great ! So for anyone watching, I contacted Nikodem for more infos, his answer was extra fast, straight to the point and really really helpful, Thanks Nikodem ! I will buy the plates and the PCB and start building my machine based on your plans.
For the very first time, I can't understand those thumb-downs... That won't change the great interest of this project at all though. Nikodem, since the very start of your channel, I have had the feeling that you'll gain step by step a great audience. Because of your fertile imagination and that willingness to make ideas a reality. Here we are! Already +40,000 subscribers. I'm really happy you reached that milestone. I was not wrong: you're a hard worker and a creative guy with talent and knowledge. It's not flattery, I hate that. This channel is among the rising ones for the reasons I just listed. Keep it up! This project is more professional with heavy-duty parts and so inspiring. In addition you give work to people who do need it. It's a social involvement too. Glad to have discovered your channel Nikodem. Vive la Pologne et sa jeunesse! From France, with admiration.
I enjoy your videos. Just a tip for paining. Rustproofing is quickly and effectively done using Rustoleum spray paint. It is a US product but is readily available and reasonably priced here in Australia. I presume that it would be available in Poland as well. It has much better coverage and finish and it also bonds well to most plastics including PLA so I use it for most of my prototyping. Cheers. (not a paid ad).
Nice video! Right now I'm in the process of designing my own CNC, are there is some stuff I might wanna add: - the aluminium profiles are quite small. My machine will have a similar workspace of around 600x500x100mm, yet I used 60x60 and 60x120mm extrusions - I don't know if you already plan to do so, but you can fill the aluminium extrusions with sand to make them more rigid and the machine quieter, once it's finished. Just seal the ends with glue, 3d printed parts or something like that - the stepper drivers you bought are quite cheap and not as reliable as other options. You should check out the products from leadshine, they have very good digital drivers - the linear rails you got are probably cheap hiwin clones with mediocre built quality. It is always recommended to take the linear blocks apart, degrease them and even replace the ball bearings with better quality ones for better accuracy and reliability. - if you don't care a lot about noise, you might want to consider a trim router like a compact model from makita as your spindle. They are high quality and very safe to use in comparison to other models from China, yet they are pretty loud in use.
aaah here it is! Was wondering where this mystical IndyCNC was ;-) I'm glad you got to start on this project, I really enjoyed your DremelCNC. I haven't built one but now this one is here, I wonder if I should just wait and build this one. I have access to a laser cutter at work and can have parts like this cut to size which makes life easier, although i've always been told that the hole size on a laser is dependent on thickness especially for the quality. i.e. they don't like cutting 2mm holes in anything thicker than 2mm, 3mm holes in anything thicker than 3mm etc.
Once you are ready, maybe even make the plates available to purchase electronically by way of CAD file. That way if shipping is too expensive we can have them made elsewhere. Just an idea, keep up the great work!
Thanks! Great to know, as I said it will take a while because firstly I want to complete the project and do some testing to see how good it is and show you that in videos. After that I will try to organize few kits for sale :) Join the newsletter to don't miss those: indystry.cc/indymill/
I think an easy / cheap way to use an Arduino with grbl is the Arduino Nano with a Nano expansion board ~4€. I use this with the TB6600 for my Dremel CNC. But I will also build your machine when it is finished. Because I am currently not satisfied with the rigidity of the Dremel CNC. I'm really looking forward to Part 2
When the project is complete and the design is finalized, maybe you could consider starting a kickstarter to order many kit parts frbricated from suppliers at a high volume reduced cost. Im sure you could take a deserving profit cut and we all could bennefit from it by reducing costs and providing easier parts sourcing by recieving delivered kits. Just a thought. I am very interested in this design and appreciate your hard work and overall opensource philosophy. Keep up the exeptional work!
note to anyone trying to do this if you know someone that can plasma cut just let them pierce the small holes (it draws an arc in the center of the hole which creates a nice pit for your drill to go into like a center drill)
Awesome. I'm still building my 3D printer to be able to print dremel-cnc parts, but I'm already excited about your upcoming videos. One suggestion tho, you could make a few videos explaining the design choices. Obviously not everyone will be able to get the exact same parts and probably has to use substitutes, so it would be interesting to hear your thoughts about the problems or parts one should avoid for whatever reason.
you started a great project! very cool! to improve precision in building the structure I would advise you to remove the paint in all those places where the steel plates are connected to each other (for example if you have to join two pieces of steel at 90 °) the thickness of the paint could give stability problems with the finished structure. The 12 brothers you showed in 04:03 probably are named sliding bushings or linear bushings ( no no: linear bushings are for rods). Do not remove the plastic stud inserted in the sliding bearings but make sure that it is pushed away from the rail, while inserting the bearing, otherwise you could lose all the balls of the bearing Go ahead Nik i'll follow you ! See you soon!
Thanks! I hope that paint wouldn’t be a big problem, I may eventually just remove it with angle grinder and paint this places again later. I noticed the plastic element in those sliding bearings, I keep it in place and also I keep most of them still in bags because there is a lot of dust in my workshop. That’s just some additional protection to ensure that everything will run smoothly
Man you have done a large amount of work and this is an awesome project especially for people that want a decent hobby kit to start in CNC. I would buy all the bits from your website straight away if you shipped to Australia but unfortunately that doesnt look to be an option. I can get local suppliers to make them but I would have preferred to buy direct from you but that is ok. Thank you for your work.
External High Power Switching Module for Microstep Driver Look for this on Ali Express this item can make your life a lot easier with cnc shield and tb6600 or similar! Very good job by the way!
Like what you are doing. Would 3mm mild steel plates be thick enough. Would reduce the weight a bit. Also found that laser cutting can be cheap enough if you find the right company. Also you would be able to get smaller holes thru 3mm palate.
Hammerite sie kładzie troche grubiej 2 razy max, I tu tesz robi mały problem, dlatego rze nawet annodizing robi kołt jakiejś tam grubości, ja bym sprobował doszlifował na punktah kontaktu tych rails do stali, I zabespieczył olejem jak acf50 kture bozwoli na dokładny kontakt. Jeśli kiedy kolwiek rozbierzeasz starą maszyne to właśnie takie rozwiązanie jest zastosowane. Ale super video, I czuć taki fajny entuziazm, do budowania motoruw by mi sie the pszydało do szybkiego prototypowanie, I morze gdybym zrobił to całe z stali, I sprenrzyny na pionowym axis rzeby odciąrzyć śilniki to by wtedy z jakimś zarąbistym motorze móg zrobić super mince cnc do wszystkiego od stali to plastiku
Great video, love the design and nice job at your website. Maybe try aluminum insted of steel and try to mill/drill them on a dremel CNC. And a tip for a dremel CNC, make an air hose that will blow away aluminum from cutting area and cooldown the tool a bit. Keep up the great work!
He sent in a video it was over 800 usd but he is mainly getting name brand high quality parts. But i personalky dont think its worth it because if you want to mill metal stock just convert a manual mill
Thank you for the great video! I am really looking forward to this series! A few tips and or questions 1. As far as I know there are 2 Versions of this profiles one with a bore for M6 and for M5. Is there a reason why you didn’t use the M6 Version, with which you wouldn’t have had to enlarge the holes? 2. When boring, milling or tapping Aluminium I use ethanol and not WD40. I don’t know he specifics but it just works better. Datron uses it also on their machines. 3. When I order parts from a laser cutting service they mark the holes which are to small to cut. Maybe you could ask he service where you ordered the parts if they could do the same
Thanks! 1. Hole in those profiles is too big for M5 and too small for M6, that's why I had to enlarge those. There is really a lot of versions of those profiles so maybe you can find some with proper hole diameters. 2. I also used WD40 it's a lot easier to tap a hole thanks to it. It's also visible on the video. 3. Holes were marked but I don't think it's super precise to drill those by hand and also it takes too much time so I have to figure out how to design them so that those can be cut or order additional drilling at a factory.
Hey bro, very nice build and the free instructions are just awesome . I need to build one a bit bigger, can i scale it by just getting longer rails and balls crews ?
Hi Nikodem, Outstanding project, looking forward to it. I have those stepper drivers and noticed that the circuit boards can be very close to the case. I am thinking of using some insullated waffer. :)
Thanks! Keep in mind that that may increase the temperature inside the driver. It's better to have bad (thermal) insulation to distribute energy outside of the case. My case is also made out of plastic so I don't think that this will be a problem.
When I have to tap aluminum, I just chuck the tap into my cordless drill, lube the tap, and screw it into the hole. That's how most CNC milling centers tap small holes. (not with a cordless drill, but you know what I mean... ;) Just make sure you are square to the hole in both directions, and don't put a side load on it.
@@smooth_lighting I don't do that in aluminum for taps 1/2" down to #6 screw threads, and I have never broken a tap in aluminum, but you have to be straight on the hole. I watch a shit-ton of videos, including a lot of the top metal workers, and I have yet to see one hand drill or tap a hole, starting off with the tool perpendicular to the surface. I have 42 years experience, with thousands of holes tapped, including several hundred holes in that 80/20. That aluminum alloy, (the 80/20 they sell in the States) is 6105-T5, and it taps very well using my method. I recommend Tap Magic Aluminum, for tapping aluminum and magnesium alloys.
Just one thing about the paint, I use the same brand (here is made by azkonobel, Idk there), and its really good but... primer or lacker, the paint by itself reamains like pay doh if its applied directly over metal.
Cześć ;) Już się nie mogę doczekać końcowej fazy tego projektu! Mała prośba, jak nie będzie problemem dodaj polskie napisy, bo te co generuje youtube tłumacz zlewają się z sobą ;/ No i oczywiście linki do części od polskich dystrybutorów :) Pozdrawiam ;)
I would bring your attention to Vention.io They allow machine design using standard aluminum extrusions with standard brackets etc. You won't have to mill any parts separately. They even have an online machinedesign tool where you can build your entire cnc and order the relevant parts from them.
This is a great project! Thank you very much for shearing it! Can you give us files with dimensions of metal parts?😇 I want to start building it right now and give you all good feedback with ideas and potential updates)
See if you're local community college has a CNC program some of them if you give them the plans, they will have you pay for the material only. Might take awhile as its a school but can pretty cheap as the labor is free.
I was thinking about that but end up ordering laser cut parts because I found a company was able to cut those quickly for a good price. Have to do more research about that and find out, maybe you are right. Best way would be to have a wazer (that's a desktop waterjet) and cut them in house but it is expensive :)
If I already own a DremelCNC I should be able to cut the steel parts from aluminium and use the finished aluminium CNC to cut mild steel plates to replace the aluminium ones?
Dremels are crap as he said in the other video... The bearings rather bushings are very cheap, probibly made out of Nylon and DON'T HOLD any tolerances as the Dremels are made to only vibrate your hand while you use them, I use my Dremel to vibrate my molds, and it does a great job in doing that.. Go to the store and pick up a brand new one and check out bearing play for yourself, the bushing play is like something that is completely worn out!.. The chuck is also a problem as you can only tighten it with your fingers, so the fist vibration the chuck WILL RELEASE and the bit will fall out, and they are also seriously underpowerd, unless you want to scratch your back with it, turned off of course, you don't want the bit to fall out of the chuck and into your but crack while is spinning around.. Dremels are garbage in evey way.
nice vid again mate. if you need laser cut parts i can send you what you want because im a programmer of our cnc machines at work! We can cut up to 12mm steel. I already lasered 2.5 mm holes just fine in 8mm steel sheet!!! (It is possible)
G'day, what are the material to be cut limitations on this? I've been looking and cant find this info. Will it cut steel or aluminium? How thick a material can be cut in various types?
Dobra robota, no i ten, przecież jak będzie gotowe, to możesz wykorzystać to cnc do zrobienia części z alu do konstrukcji następnej, praktycznie koszt wykonania odpadnie (poza kosztami eksploatacyjnymi) więc można zainwestować w aluminium.
I've been torn on what to build. I was considering just buying a little 3018cnc to mess around with but I'd rather put the money towards a decent machine similar to your design. I like the size of this machine. I already have two nema 23 motors from an old project but I need new drivers. I also have a single big nema 32 but that's overkill unless I'm building a pretty big machine.
early gang im still building my dremel cnc i have been waiting for the 12mm rods for months adn due to covid 19 its taking longer edit: didnt ealise i was this early 15 seconds
Sooo, when you put that thingy together, could you mill the metal pieces and sell those possibly? I have no idea where to begin finding someone that could laser those for me. Alternatlively you could place a larger order with your supplier and sell them as well.
Hi, I've just come across your vids and i'm very impressed, so I decided to purchase your plans, but the problem I've got is your parts list.... Some of the links send me to 'V' slot extrusion and others to 'T' slot, is that intentional? The link for trapezoidal lead screw is asking for pitch and lead dimensions/sizes? Linear rails links are asking C or H? Stepper motors spindle sizes?? Any chance you could clarify thanks. 😊
Hello Nikodem, At first i would like to thank you for all your work you are sharing to us, thank you so much. i'm on my way to build it, but i have my first question ^^, which drill mounting are you using to drill holes? it look like aliexpress one, but which one (if you advise me to buy this of course) cdly.
Nice work Nikodem! Gonna build your version. I was planning to build a MPCNC but yours look more mature. Is it wise to replace the steel laser cut pieces with aluminum? Perhaps 10mm thick?
Check out indystry.cc/indymill and subscribe to the newsletter to be up to date with IndyMill project! You can also find here a table with parts that I have as for now. What do you think about IndyMill? Can't wait to mill something with it :D
Hello Niko, glad to find this page, this is similar to something I would like to build, do you have drawings for the metal parts? Also how difficutlt would it be to expand this to 1m x 1m
I second the drawing for the metal part. Can you share the dxf file?
Nice job by the way!
yes please share your dxf file for test and upgrade?
Hi Nikodem,
I'm looking for just the XY stage 1meter x 1meter and no Z axis. With Nema 34 motors. I'll be willing to discuss with you the pricing for it too. Please let me know how we can communicate further. I'm in the US in Las Vegas.
Can you make a cnc machine by usin a cnc machine to make all the parts.
Some small tips:
1) don't restrict the machining method of your parts. You may find a CNC shop that can cut your material at a cheaper cost than laser, to similar accuracies. This is especially true if you wish to sell kits.
2) don't accept parts that have missing or wrongly made features or dimensions. When you send drawings and files to a manufacturer, make sure you have all of the following: .STEP file of your individual parts (dxf or dwg if laser files), 2d dimensioned drawings of each part, and an assembly drawing of your part if the parts are intended to be assembled on each other. This allows you to point out their machining faults (if any) as well as help them highlight issues they may face. You can't do this if they don't have your drawings.
3) you can get the fabrication house to clean and process the parts for you, such as filing or bead blasting to a desired textured finish. This can save time spent on paint prep.
Really enjoy the video. Can't wait to watch the next one!
Thanks a lot!
1) That's true, I will do more research on that especially on water jet cutting.
2) Parts were perfectly fine except those small holes, but that wasn't a big deal. But it's true they could mention something about minimal hole diameter.
3) I know, but I enjoy making and it's always nice to do some more work with your own hands and play with tools :)
Thanks! Can't wait too
Thx for sharing your experience, we all lessened something
Did you maybe mix up the h and c variant of the linear rails in your design. Would explain the wrong hole pattern.
Laser nie wytnie otworu mniejszego od grubości blachy jest to zależne od długości wpalenia , te które miałeś zrobione to pewnie było minimum na tym laserze.
Water jet może byś droższy od lasera bo ma mniejszą prędkość cięcia a płacisz też za czas pracy maszyny musisz powysyłać zapytania do różnych firm, bo niestety nie wszystkie
firmy chcą się bawić w pojedyncze zamówienia od osób prywatnych wolą firmy i też czasem jest próg przy jakiej minimalnej wartości zamówienia biorą zlecenie.
@@nikodembartnik I owned a business and had two waterjet machines. They are great for a lot of things, especially thick materials that a laser won't cut, but you'll never beat a laser for speed and accuracy in steels under 1" thick with a waterjet. I cut everything from stainless steel and aluminum, to wood, granite countertops, and even large rocks. Mostly though, I cut multiple sheets (at the same time) of aircraft aluminum, to make aircraft sheetmetal parts. I enjoyed your video and look forward to the rest of this build!
I think what you're doing is amazing. I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to show people what you're doing and being brave enough to share it. The way you go through everything and the presentation of your videos is excellent.
I'm thinking of building my own CNC machine, not a kit one like you see everywhere, but my own design. My thought process was a lot like yours: combine aluminium and 3D printed parts, but I have no experience with 3D printing yet. Your new design has inspired me - I'd been thinking about using 3d-printed prototype parts in place of simple 2D aluminium parts that can be cut on a fibre laser, and you've completely solidified the idea in my head.
Hello ! I watched all the videos of this part and they are just amazing ! The machine came out great !
So for anyone watching, I contacted Nikodem for more infos, his answer was extra fast, straight to the point and really really helpful, Thanks Nikodem !
I will buy the plates and the PCB and start building my machine based on your plans.
For the very first time, I can't understand those thumb-downs... That won't change the great interest of this project at all though. Nikodem, since the very start of your channel, I have had the feeling that you'll gain step by step a great audience. Because of your fertile imagination and that willingness to make ideas a reality. Here we are! Already +40,000 subscribers. I'm really happy you reached that milestone. I was not wrong: you're a hard worker and a creative guy with talent and knowledge. It's not flattery, I hate that.
This channel is among the rising ones for the reasons I just listed. Keep it up!
This project is more professional with heavy-duty parts and so inspiring. In addition you give work to people who do need it. It's a social involvement too. Glad to have discovered your channel Nikodem. Vive la Pologne et sa jeunesse! From France, with admiration.
THANKS!
I enjoy your videos. Just a tip for paining. Rustproofing is quickly and effectively done using Rustoleum spray paint. It is a US product but is readily available and reasonably priced here in Australia. I presume that it would be available in Poland as well. It has much better coverage and finish and it also bonds well to most plastics including PLA so I use it for most of my prototyping. Cheers. (not a paid ad).
Hi, Which one do you use? Is it the Stop-Rust one? I see amazon has some available but not too sure which is the correct one to use. Thanks
Nice video! Right now I'm in the process of designing my own CNC, are there is some stuff I might wanna add:
- the aluminium profiles are quite small. My machine will have a similar workspace of around 600x500x100mm, yet I used 60x60 and 60x120mm extrusions
- I don't know if you already plan to do so, but you can fill the aluminium extrusions with sand to make them more rigid and the machine quieter, once it's finished. Just seal the ends with glue, 3d printed parts or something like that
- the stepper drivers you bought are quite cheap and not as reliable as other options. You should check out the products from leadshine, they have very good digital drivers
- the linear rails you got are probably cheap hiwin clones with mediocre built quality. It is always recommended to take the linear blocks apart, degrease them and even replace the ball bearings with better quality ones for better accuracy and reliability.
- if you don't care a lot about noise, you might want to consider a trim router like a compact model from makita as your spindle. They are high quality and very safe to use in comparison to other models from China, yet they are pretty loud in use.
Huge thanks for sharing it for free. This is very inspiring, will definitely link to you after building one.
Thanks!
aaah here it is! Was wondering where this mystical IndyCNC was ;-) I'm glad you got to start on this project, I really enjoyed your DremelCNC. I haven't built one but now this one is here, I wonder if I should just wait and build this one. I have access to a laser cutter at work and can have parts like this cut to size which makes life easier, although i've always been told that the hole size on a laser is dependent on thickness especially for the quality. i.e. they don't like cutting 2mm holes in anything thicker than 2mm, 3mm holes in anything thicker than 3mm etc.
Nice beginning video for this machine.
Once you are ready, maybe even make the plates available to purchase electronically by way of CAD file. That way if shipping is too expensive we can have them made elsewhere. Just an idea, keep up the great work!
I will share those for free :)
Best Timing, needed a break from learning🥳
I am retired... now I turn on UA-cam, watch Nikodem, and learn! :o)
Excellent job! Thanks for sharing this with us. Stay Safe!
I'll take the parts of the Dremel CNC and build this one, nice design!
Thanks!
These parts are on a completely different league compared to the Dremel cnc
@@KHA922 Yeah, black steel versus blue styrene.
I like very much what you are doing. You have a logical and precise mind. Good video.
Bloody awesome, mate. Marcin Jakubowski would be proud. Keep up the good work!
Your first cnc was amazing 👏👏 looking forward to this one 👍👍
Thanks a lot!
amazing craftmanship mate! youre going places.
last 2 weeks i work with video editing and now understand how much time you put in your edits . good job bro, you are getting better on each video :)
Thanks! This one took me more time than usually to edit but I think it was totally worth it :)
Great video as always, would difinitly buy those steel parts!
Thanks! Great to know, as I said it will take a while because firstly I want to complete the project and do some testing to see how good it is and show you that in videos. After that I will try to organize few kits for sale :) Join the newsletter to don't miss those: indystry.cc/indymill/
Again a nice project, I will check this with attention, as a fellow maker, I love this kind of DIY CNC Project ! Keep up this amazing work.
Thanks for open sourcing it!
I watched all the advert in between to suppor you
Do you anticipate being able to mill mild steels or stainless steel with this machine?
Solid project. :) my tip is to use rubber foot to reduce the vibration and noise.
Maybe 3D printed foot, that would be a nice addition
I think an easy / cheap way to use an Arduino with grbl is the Arduino Nano with a Nano expansion board ~4€. I use this with the TB6600 for my Dremel CNC. But I will also build your machine when it is finished. Because I am currently not satisfied with the rigidity of the Dremel CNC. I'm really looking forward to Part 2
When the project is complete and the design is finalized, maybe you could consider starting a kickstarter to order many kit parts frbricated from suppliers at a high volume reduced cost. Im sure you could take a deserving profit cut and we all could bennefit from it by reducing costs and providing easier parts sourcing by recieving delivered kits. Just a thought. I am very interested in this design and appreciate your hard work and overall opensource philosophy. Keep up the exeptional work!
note to anyone trying to do this if you know someone that can plasma cut just let them pierce the small holes (it draws an arc in the center of the hole which creates a nice pit for your drill to go into like a center drill)
Awesome. I'm still building my 3D printer to be able to print dremel-cnc parts, but I'm already excited about your upcoming videos.
One suggestion tho, you could make a few videos explaining the design choices. Obviously not everyone will be able to get the exact same parts and probably has to use substitutes, so it would be interesting to hear your thoughts about the problems or parts one should avoid for whatever reason.
Thanks! Great idea, how about some Q&A about the design, replacement parts and so on? Good luck with your build!
I was about to start building another DIY cnc, but I think I'll wait for this one, looks really promising! Good job mate!
Thanks, will do my best to finish it soon
Nice. My words in english are not enough to describe what I think. But its still great to look at your Projekts. 👍👍👍😍
Thanks a lot :D
you started a great project! very cool!
to improve precision in building the structure I would advise you to remove the paint in all those places where the steel plates are connected to each other (for example if you have to join two pieces of steel at 90 °) the thickness of the paint could give stability problems with the finished structure.
The 12 brothers you showed in 04:03 probably are named sliding bushings or linear bushings ( no no: linear bushings are for rods).
Do not remove the plastic stud inserted in the sliding bearings but make sure that it is pushed away from the rail, while inserting the bearing, otherwise you could lose all the balls of the bearing
Go ahead Nik i'll follow you !
See you soon!
Thanks! I hope that paint wouldn’t be a big problem, I may eventually just remove it with angle grinder and paint this places again later. I noticed the plastic element in those sliding bearings, I keep it in place and also I keep most of them still in bags because there is a lot of dust in my workshop. That’s just some additional protection to ensure that everything will run smoothly
The V-slot profile 2020 has good M5 holes, you don't need to pre-drill them.
You should compare to the Shapeoko XXL with the HDZ or Z-Plus!
Nice editing.
When looking at companies to make more parts, also consider waterjet cutting. That can be as accurate as the laser, and tends to be more common.
Man you have done a large amount of work and this is an awesome project especially for people that want a decent hobby kit to start in CNC. I would buy all the bits from your website straight away if you shipped to Australia but unfortunately that doesnt look to be an option. I can get local suppliers to make them but I would have preferred to buy direct from you but that is ok. Thank you for your work.
Dobry projekt Bartek,może się skuszę . Pozdrawiam
Dzięki Krzysiek, Pozdrawiam Nikodem :)
Another great video! I love your projects. I’m looking forward to part 2.
Thanks a lot! :D
I remember the first video and was hooked. This is cool man, can't wait to see how it develops!
Thanks! I remember your videos about Dremel CNC :)
External High Power Switching Module for Microstep Driver
Look for this on Ali Express this item can make your life a lot easier with cnc shield and tb6600 or similar! Very good job by the way!
Thanks!
Like what you are doing. Would 3mm mild steel plates be thick enough. Would reduce the weight a bit. Also found that laser cutting can be cheap enough if you find the right company. Also you would be able to get smaller holes thru 3mm palate.
Awesome video! I plan to replicate, using aluminum for the plates (at least 8mm, and the .dxf files as per your website above). Thanks for posting!
Excellent project
Selam, yaptın mı aynısından ?
@@AydoganY. yapmadım
@@electronic7979ben yapmayı planlıyorum. Metal parçaları sordum 250 lira fiyat çektiler cnc plazmacılar. Çok büyük masraf olmuyacak gibi duruyor
@@AydoganY. bence yapmaya değer. Şimdiden kolay gelsin
Nice work. Waiting for first aluminium chips 👌
Thanks, me too!
Hammerite sie kładzie troche grubiej 2 razy max, I tu tesz robi mały problem, dlatego rze nawet annodizing robi kołt jakiejś tam grubości, ja bym sprobował doszlifował na punktah kontaktu tych rails do stali, I zabespieczył olejem jak acf50 kture bozwoli na dokładny kontakt. Jeśli kiedy kolwiek rozbierzeasz starą maszyne to właśnie takie rozwiązanie jest zastosowane. Ale super video, I czuć taki fajny entuziazm, do budowania motoruw by mi sie the pszydało do szybkiego prototypowanie, I morze gdybym zrobił to całe z stali, I sprenrzyny na pionowym axis rzeby odciąrzyć śilniki to by wtedy z jakimś zarąbistym motorze móg zrobić super mince cnc do wszystkiego od stali to plastiku
You should 3D print some soft-jaws for your vice so the vice won't mark your aluminum. You need a drill press.
Great video, love the design and nice job at your website. Maybe try aluminum insted of steel and try to mill/drill them on a dremel CNC. And a tip for a dremel CNC, make an air hose that will blow away aluminum from cutting area and cooldown the tool a bit. Keep up the great work!
Super excited to see the progress!!
This is a great project because I'm thinking about building a CNC. How much have you spent so far?
Bill Karoly too much
How much is too much? We wanna know!!
I was joking, I don’t know how much was spent
He sent in a video it was over 800 usd but he is mainly getting name brand high quality parts. But i personalky dont think its worth it because if you want to mill metal stock just convert a manual mill
Itll will be much more effectice than an alu profile based cnc router style machine
Thank you for the great video! I am really looking forward to this series! A few tips and or questions
1. As far as I know there are 2 Versions of this profiles one with a bore for M6 and for M5. Is there a reason why you didn’t use the M6 Version, with which you wouldn’t have had to enlarge the holes?
2. When boring, milling or tapping Aluminium I use ethanol and not WD40. I don’t know he specifics but it just works better. Datron uses it also on their machines.
3. When I order parts from a laser cutting service they mark the holes which are to small to cut. Maybe you could ask he service where you ordered the parts if they could do the same
Thanks!
1. Hole in those profiles is too big for M5 and too small for M6, that's why I had to enlarge those. There is really a lot of versions of those profiles so maybe you can find some with proper hole diameters.
2. I also used WD40 it's a lot easier to tap a hole thanks to it. It's also visible on the video.
3. Holes were marked but I don't think it's super precise to drill those by hand and also it takes too much time so I have to figure out how to design them so that those can be cut or order additional drilling at a factory.
Hello! Can I add a 15/20w laser to this cnc? What have I to change in order to achieve that? Thank you very much and great job!
Hey bro, very nice build and the free instructions are just awesome . I need to build one a bit bigger, can i scale it by just getting longer rails and balls crews ?
Fantastic! My 'most waited for' video has arrived!! Goody goody!!! Thanks Nikodem. :o)
You are welcome :) Thanks!
👍👍👍 can't wait to see it's working
Me too!
Hi Nikodem, Outstanding project, looking forward to it. I have those stepper drivers and noticed that the circuit boards can be very close to the case. I am thinking of using some insullated waffer. :)
Thanks! Keep in mind that that may increase the temperature inside the driver. It's better to have bad (thermal) insulation to distribute energy outside of the case. My case is also made out of plastic so I don't think that this will be a problem.
When I have to tap aluminum, I just chuck the tap into my cordless drill, lube the tap, and screw it into the hole. That's how most CNC milling centers tap small holes. (not with a cordless drill, but you know what I mean... ;) Just make sure you are square to the hole in both directions, and don't put a side load on it.
throngcleaver Make sure to set a torque limit and rewind half a turn when it is reached. Will prevent you from breaking your tap.
@@smooth_lighting I don't do that in aluminum for taps 1/2" down to #6 screw threads, and I have never broken a tap in aluminum, but you have to be straight on the hole. I watch a shit-ton of videos, including a lot of the top metal workers, and I have yet to see one hand drill or tap a hole, starting off with the tool perpendicular to the surface. I have 42 years experience, with thousands of holes tapped, including several hundred holes in that 80/20. That aluminum alloy, (the 80/20 they sell in the States) is 6105-T5, and it taps very well using my method. I recommend Tap Magic Aluminum, for tapping aluminum and magnesium alloys.
Loved you video!! Keep up the great work. Are you selling the steal parts? I really want to test and built one of this. Please give some info on that.
Just one thing about the paint, I use the same brand (here is made by azkonobel, Idk there), and its really good but... primer or lacker, the paint by itself reamains like pay doh if its applied directly over metal.
Hell yeah I will buy the parts! where i live is difficult to fabricate them
Cześć ;) Już się nie mogę doczekać końcowej fazy tego projektu! Mała prośba, jak nie będzie problemem dodaj polskie napisy, bo te co generuje youtube tłumacz zlewają się z sobą ;/ No i oczywiście linki do części od polskich dystrybutorów :) Pozdrawiam ;)
Have you released a step file for the entire machine? All I have found are step files for the individual printed parts. Thanks for all your work!
I would bring your attention to Vention.io They allow machine design using standard aluminum extrusions with standard brackets etc. You won't have to mill any parts separately. They even have an online machinedesign tool where you can build your entire cnc and order the relevant parts from them.
This is a great project! Thank you very much for shearing it! Can you give us files with dimensions of metal parts?😇 I want to start building it right now and give you all good feedback with ideas and potential updates)
See if you're local community college has a CNC program some of them if you give them the plans, they will have you pay for the material only. Might take awhile as its a school but can pretty cheap as the labor is free.
Good proyect Nikodem, I really like your channel. Regards from Spain
Thanks! Best from Poland!
Looks like a good start!
Great video! Although isn't a water jet cutter a better/cheaper alternative? Not sure though
I was thinking about that but end up ordering laser cut parts because I found a company was able to cut those quickly for a good price. Have to do more research about that and find out, maybe you are right. Best way would be to have a wazer (that's a desktop waterjet) and cut them in house but it is expensive :)
@@nikodembartnik makes sense. Anyway, great work! And cannot wait for the i'ble to be out!
Scan or copy those steel parts and make them with 3/8" or 10mm or whatever thickness HDPE you think is enough for your project.
Hey, cool design! Great idea! I would use extra bearing blocks for the ball screws. Can buy via aliexpress as set.
Super video ! pozdravujem zo Slovenska :) Velmi sa teším na dalšiu časť.
ďakujem :)
Good stuff. Those drivers are really bad though, you probably replaced them by now :)
I might be interested in the steel parts as I’m in the EU (at least for a bit longer)
If I already own a DremelCNC I should be able to cut the steel parts from aluminium and use the finished aluminium CNC to cut mild steel plates to replace the aluminium ones?
Dremels are crap as he said in the other video... The bearings rather bushings are very cheap, probibly made out of Nylon and DON'T HOLD any tolerances as the Dremels are made to only vibrate your hand while you use them, I use my Dremel to vibrate my molds, and it does a great job in doing that..
Go to the store and pick up a brand new one and check out bearing play for yourself, the bushing play is like something that is completely worn out!.. The chuck is also a problem as you can only tighten it with your fingers, so the fist vibration the chuck WILL RELEASE and the bit will fall out, and they are also seriously underpowerd, unless you want to scratch your back with it, turned off of course, you don't want the bit to fall out of the chuck and into your but crack while is spinning around..
Dremels are garbage in evey way.
nice vid again mate. if you need laser cut parts i can send you what you want because im a programmer of our cnc machines at work! We can cut up to 12mm steel. I already lasered 2.5 mm holes just fine in 8mm steel sheet!!! (It is possible)
i hope i can buy the hole thing from youre site one day
G'day, what are the material to be cut limitations on this? I've been looking and cant find this info. Will it cut steel or aluminium? How thick a material can be cut in various types?
Dobra robota, no i ten, przecież jak będzie gotowe, to możesz wykorzystać to cnc do zrobienia części z alu do konstrukcji następnej, praktycznie koszt wykonania odpadnie (poza kosztami eksploatacyjnymi) więc można zainwestować w aluminium.
I've been torn on what to build. I was considering just buying a little 3018cnc to mess around with but I'd rather put the money towards a decent machine similar to your design. I like the size of this machine. I already have two nema 23 motors from an old project but I need new drivers. I also have a single big nema 32 but that's overkill unless I'm building a pretty big machine.
Looks nice design, however flex at x axis is bit worrying, i suppose Mgn rails makes it bit stiffer
Wowww already a new one!
A Helpful Genius. Thank you.
early gang im still building my dremel cnc i have been waiting for the 12mm rods for months adn due to covid 19 its taking longer
edit: didnt ealise i was this early 15 seconds
Amazing! You should try to cut the steel parts in a cnc plasma cutter or I'm waterjet, is much cheaper
May I ask the approximate total cost of the parts required?, very cool project btw.
700-900 USD
Sooo, when you put that thingy together, could you mill the metal pieces and sell those possibly? I have no idea where to begin finding someone that could laser those for me. Alternatlively you could place a larger order with your supplier and sell them as well.
Really excited about this project. When is the next video out @Nikodem Bartnik ?
Hi, I've just come across your vids and i'm very impressed, so I decided to purchase your plans, but the problem I've got is your parts list....
Some of the links send me to 'V' slot extrusion and others to 'T' slot, is that intentional?
The link for trapezoidal lead screw is asking for pitch and lead dimensions/sizes?
Linear rails links are asking C or H?
Stepper motors spindle sizes??
Any chance you could clarify thanks. 😊
Fajny projekt, ja aktualnie robię mpcnc primo
How did you ensure that the horizontal axes were at a true right angle?
The pieces should be extruded and cut from the manufacturer with somewhat reasonable accuracy
Hello Nikodem,
At first i would like to thank you for all your work you are sharing to us, thank you so much.
i'm on my way to build it, but i have my first question ^^,
which drill mounting are you using to drill holes? it look like aliexpress one, but which one (if you advise me to buy this of course)
cdly.
Do gwintowania alu lepszy by był spirytus np denaturat ;-) Kup sobie na przyszłość np taki cuś TEREBOR będziesz miał na długo.
good luck boy
Hello, good job! What type of steel did you use for the parts?
@nico I was wondering what company you ended up choosing? And how much did they charge you for making your plates?
As designed what is the size of the actual cutting surface of the Indymill?
Nice work Nikodem! Gonna build your version. I was planning to build a MPCNC but yours look more mature. Is it wise to replace the steel laser cut pieces with aluminum? Perhaps 10mm thick?
świetne wideo, dzięki!
how much does this cost ?
you work very nice