Please ensure an absolute positive fix for the gear cable linkage at the engine end. I assume this is no problem upon seeing the note on screen! Do not rush to a passage, put the boat, yourselves and the babies through a sea trial to shake down any gremlins. The engine train really needs a thorough test before you trust it to a passage Carefully plan your first passage such that you always have servicing to hand - just in case. Then you are good to go. Do you have access to an experienced crew member just for the initial passage - I am sure you have not forgot you have twins aboard!
Get the correct bracket for that push pull cable or at the minimum cut a c in a little tab and weld it on to that plate so it fits in the groove of that cable then hose clamp it. Last thing you want is trying to dock the boat and not have it go into neutral or reverse. That would suck lol.
Make sure that the gearbox cooling system is supposed to be seawater. because that sounds unusual to me. I would expect the gearbox to be running at about 180 Fahrenheit, about engine temperature for the proper viscosity of the oil specified--and that means the gearbox coolant has to be de-ionised and part of the engine cooling circuit of de-ionised coolant. It is cooled as we know by passing through a radiator or a heat exchanger using seawater. I suspect that running cold saltwater through an alloy system, or even sea water warmed by the heat exchanger outlet water, is just asking for trouble and expensive trouble at that. That gearbox gadget looked like an automatic transmission cooler to me--and they are designed for de-ionised engine coolant. I noted copper piping in use--it does not do well with alloy--I would try to replace it with high temperature plastic or aluminium. Copper is OK with cast iron--but that is about it Just check and make sure before putting to sea. Personally, I hate seawater heat exchangers and I run both belt driven and electric thermostat controlled fan cooled aluminium cored radiators and a dry exhaust--but that is me. Almost all engine failures and fires at sea are caused by heat exchanger failures (or saltwater pump to heat exchanger failure's) and corrosion of the exhaust system. Overheated engines start fires, cost many thousands to repair, and leaky corroded exhausts belching exhaust gasses can kill people especially children. Now, most yachts use a wet exhaust, and there are advantages in quietness and cheaper components in the silencing and water trapping and anti-siphon outlet system. I have used them too--but they burn more fuel, the impellors for the heat exchanger are rubber and short-lived, the saltwater inlets can be blocked by jellyfish, seaweed or plastic refuse and fail. Besides, that useful combustion waste heat is mostly lost. If an admittedly more expensive initially dry and ducted exhaust is chosen, that heat can be used if the exhaust pipe is fan-forced air cooled and used for heating the vessel interior, or if wrapped with metal piping heating hot water for the heads or galley if storage is supplied, Anyhoo--my $0.02. worth of superfluous advice.
The plastic thing that is for the water intake to the engine is to prevent the boat from filling with water if you get a water leak on the engine. Venting the hole prevents there from being a siphon effect.😊
You can attach an alternator somewhere around transmission area and run belt over the transmission pulley to make power under sail ?? If thats what the part on transmission coupling is
The diesel engines and transmissions in my sailboat were the most common problem that needed work, repairs, replacements, headaches, and heartaches. I thought replacing the original diesel and transmission with a new Yanmar would solve all the problems but no, it just came up with new and different problems.
Congrats guys ^ PIPE CLAMPS with worm Screw design ARE NOT SECURE !!!!!!!!!!!! It works in a pinch, but they are designed for STATIC clamp, NOT a moving part Add a few zip ties on top of the clamp (in the meantime)
It’s alive! Now for the test of each system in a seaway. You will want to carry spares for critical components. I suggest a set of injectors a spare low pressure lift pump if fitted , complete water pump and spare impellers , critical hoses , replacement rubber parts for the flex coupling, consumables like filters belts and gaskets including at least one for the valve cover so you can reset valve lash . Two complete lubricant changes and coolant. Look to see the baby’s so happy and healthy!
Great too see your emgine finally running 👍 i would definitely make a better fix with the gearbox cable, secure this to the plate you have with maybe m6/m8 pipe clamps, you will need to drill the plate and place threaded ends through then tighten nuts use 2 stainless steel pipe clamps & nylock nuts👍
I agree with others (not that it matters) really: Find a mechanically oriented crew member and a couple if possible. Your wife deserves help and "insurance" on your first passage of any significance
Hi guys, wow congratulations got the diesel working. Absolutely fantastic. I’m just overjoyed for you all keep up the good work Cliff from Logan city Queensland Australia. 🇦🇺 I’m on the big island 🏝️
we have twins n triplets in my family..the trips r identical n sum twins r mirror image..urs r rare they look like mirror only they r boy n girl..give those babies sum icecream n then a lemon n watch their reactions rotfl
I would be hopeful that you can change the cable housing or replace it with one that has a better solid connection to the mound as would hate to see it fail . as murphy law will always bite you when least expected. control cables should be first line if defence. Leaving the dockites can kill you on the open ocean.
about time the motor issues turned to your favour , still can't believe the mechanic dumping it on you like he did .......... Q. .. what did you do / still do on the mines in OZ
Anything you're thinking might be a problem, will be. I'm sure there's a place where you can squeeze in and do a four point tie down to load that engine, as much as you can considering the rebuild, talk to your mechanics, and run her a few hours before going out. What grade are those connection bolts? Considering the increase in length they lack sufficient diameter which will lead to shear problems. With the stress you're under your mind will make shortcuts seem OK. A short cut now could lead to catastrophe and no one wants to see that. Be smart.
You should connect with Ran Sailing and look at the bicycle seat Yoren modified to have a place to put their daught as a baby to free up themselves and to be able to have her their in their cockpit, safe. It will make your lives better if you put 2 of them in your cockpit. It will be freeing to have both of you available to dock, anchor, mooring ball. And just to keep your kids present in the cockpit with you both under sail or docked/anchored/mooring ball.
Hi there its Jill Dye in New Zealand i would love to either send you 2 x Jolly Jumpers for the twins or if i can send you the money to you to buy. My kids so old now just loved the jolly jumper my grand kids also loved it let me know. Your looking good love you all so much.
Buy a broken boat and you end up boulding everything from scratch ...? One thing I realy learnt by wathing you is not to buy a old Italian sailingboat...
Please ensure an absolute positive fix for the gear cable linkage at the engine end. I assume this is no problem upon seeing the note on screen! Do not rush to a passage, put the boat, yourselves and the babies through a sea trial to shake down any gremlins. The engine train really needs a thorough test before you trust it to a passage Carefully plan your first passage such that you always have servicing to hand - just in case. Then you are good to go. Do you have access to an experienced crew member just for the initial passage - I am sure you have not forgot you have twins aboard!
Get the correct bracket for that push pull cable or at the minimum cut a c in a little tab and weld it on to that plate so it fits in the groove of that cable then hose clamp it. Last thing you want is trying to dock the boat and not have it go into neutral or reverse. That would suck lol.
You want to thread lock the bolts on the giubo coupling so they dont back out randomly. 👍
You Epitomize the Great Ozzie Spirit of Not Giving Up. Bravo, Bravo. And Your Girl Too...!!!
Hope you buy 2 DC Alternators so you have more power to your batteries
Make sure that the gearbox cooling system is supposed to be seawater. because that sounds unusual to me. I would expect the gearbox to be running at about 180 Fahrenheit, about engine temperature for the proper viscosity of the oil specified--and that means the gearbox coolant has to be de-ionised and part of the engine cooling circuit of de-ionised coolant. It is cooled as we know by passing through a radiator or a heat exchanger using seawater.
I suspect that running cold saltwater through an alloy system, or even sea water warmed by the heat exchanger outlet water, is just asking for trouble and expensive trouble at that. That gearbox gadget looked like an automatic transmission cooler to me--and they are designed for de-ionised engine coolant.
I noted copper piping in use--it does not do well with alloy--I would try to replace it with high temperature plastic or aluminium. Copper is OK with cast iron--but that is about it
Just check and make sure before putting to sea. Personally, I hate seawater heat exchangers and I run both belt driven and electric thermostat controlled fan cooled aluminium cored radiators and a dry exhaust--but that is me. Almost all engine failures and fires at sea are caused by heat exchanger failures (or saltwater pump to heat exchanger failure's) and corrosion of the exhaust system. Overheated engines start fires, cost many thousands to repair, and leaky corroded exhausts belching exhaust gasses can kill people especially children.
Now, most yachts use a wet exhaust, and there are advantages in quietness and cheaper components in the silencing and water trapping and anti-siphon outlet system. I have used them too--but they burn more fuel, the impellors for the heat exchanger are rubber and short-lived, the saltwater inlets can be blocked by jellyfish, seaweed or plastic refuse and fail. Besides, that useful combustion waste heat is mostly lost. If an admittedly more expensive initially dry and ducted exhaust is chosen, that heat can be used if the exhaust pipe is fan-forced air cooled and used for heating the vessel interior, or if wrapped with metal piping heating hot water for the heads or galley if storage is supplied,
Anyhoo--my $0.02. worth of superfluous advice.
The light at the end of the tunnel ! (Ain’t a train 😉)
The plastic thing that is for the water intake to the engine is to prevent the boat from filling with water if you get a water leak on the engine. Venting the hole prevents there from being a siphon effect.😊
You can attach an alternator somewhere around transmission area and run belt over the transmission pulley to make power under sail ?? If thats what the part on transmission coupling is
It is an anti-siphon valve to prevent sea water from the exhaust returning and flooding the engine.
The diesel engines and transmissions in my sailboat were the most common problem that needed work, repairs, replacements, headaches, and heartaches. I thought replacing the original diesel and transmission with a new Yanmar would solve all the problems but no, it just came up with new and different problems.
Congrats guys
^ PIPE CLAMPS with worm Screw design
ARE NOT SECURE !!!!!!!!!!!!
It works in a pinch, but they are designed for STATIC clamp, NOT a moving part
Add a few zip ties on top of the clamp (in the meantime)
Looks like its time for those jumper swing chair exercise contraptions for the boy and girl. Maybe you've already got them somewhere ?
It’s alive! Now for the test of each system in a seaway. You will want to carry spares for critical components. I suggest a set of injectors a spare low pressure lift pump if fitted , complete water pump and spare impellers , critical hoses , replacement rubber parts for the flex coupling, consumables like filters belts and gaskets including at least one for the valve cover so you can reset valve lash . Two complete lubricant changes and coolant.
Look to see the baby’s so happy and healthy!
Excellent 👍 good medicine suggestions for all sailors
Soooo excited for you to start cruising again...Going to be a fun new adventure with the kids in the mix ❤ Happy days!!!
Should have two clips on all flexible hose !
Great too see your emgine finally running 👍 i would definitely make a better fix with the gearbox cable, secure this to the plate you have with maybe m6/m8 pipe clamps, you will need to drill the plate and place threaded ends through then tighten nuts use 2 stainless steel pipe clamps & nylock nuts👍
Wow, you make a big step forward to start sailling again! Good Luck Crew!
If it is leaking now it will get worse you should fix it now 👍
Yep, fix it
I agree with others (not that it matters) really: Find a mechanically oriented crew member and a couple if possible. Your wife deserves help and "insurance" on your first passage of any significance
Nice to see the progress, but what about the rudder stock gasket?
Yes! A big step for you! Hope to see you in motion again soon!!
Great effort to finally have the engine running, another step closer🤙🏼🤙🏼🤙🏼🇦🇺🇦🇺
Hi guys, wow congratulations got the diesel working. Absolutely fantastic. I’m just overjoyed for you all keep up the good work Cliff from Logan city Queensland Australia. 🇦🇺 I’m on the big island 🏝️
wow, so looking foarward to you guys getting pout on the water. hows the rudder stock leak going, ay further leak??
Congrats on the birth of an engine! Such a nice sound!
❤ from 🇨🇦 BC
Well well well, what do we have here.
I am excited for you all to have this boat to sail in.
Intro Sounds Gooood! Now i'm gonna see the rest.. fingers crossed.
i'm realy glad it worked out. don't forget to check on the bolts ans nuts after some time.
Diesel engines like to be under a load. And do not like being started and stopped. So when started , let run. Maybe in gear if possible 🤠
That hose clamp holding the end of the shift cable is not good enough.
Get a proper clamp before you go to sea.
we have twins n triplets in my family..the trips r identical n sum twins r mirror image..urs r rare they look like mirror only they r boy n girl..give those babies sum icecream n then a lemon n watch their reactions rotfl
Looking good!
Great to see you take a big step forward. Soon!
Hey thanks, long time viewer, love your show❤❤❤❤
I would be hopeful that you can change the cable housing or replace it with one that has a better solid connection to the mound as would hate to see it fail . as murphy law will always bite you when least expected. control cables should be first line if defence. Leaving the dockites can kill you on the open ocean.
That didn’t look like a siphon as much as it is a high point bleed for bleeding air out of the system
Congratulations - a super big milestone.
Happy days guys 🎉
Yayyyyyyyyy!!!!
Good...👏👏👏
about time the motor issues turned to your favour , still can't believe the mechanic dumping it on you like he did .......... Q. .. what did you do / still do on the mines in OZ
🎉🎉🎉👍🏻👍🏻👏👏👏
They are content with daddy.
And mommy
Anything you're thinking might be a problem, will be.
I'm sure there's a place where you can squeeze in and do a four point tie down to load that engine, as much as you can considering the rebuild, talk to your mechanics, and run her a few hours before going out.
What grade are those connection bolts? Considering the increase in length they lack sufficient diameter which will lead to shear problems.
With the stress you're under your mind will make shortcuts seem OK.
A short cut now could lead to catastrophe and no one wants to see that.
Be smart.
So after all time and lodging and money spent on repairs was it worth the fix or would it Ben better just spending more up front on newer boat.
We love Merewether!
You should connect with Ran Sailing and look at the bicycle seat Yoren modified to have a place to put their daught as a baby to free up themselves and to be able to have her their in their cockpit, safe. It will make your lives better if you put 2 of them in your cockpit. It will be freeing to have both of you available to dock, anchor, mooring ball. And just to keep your kids present in the cockpit with you both under sail or docked/anchored/mooring ball.
not a hose clamp at least a eye strap .. please
Hi there its Jill Dye in New Zealand i would love to either send you 2 x Jolly Jumpers for the twins or if i can send you the money to you to buy. My kids so old now just loved the jolly jumper my grand kids also loved it let me know. Your looking good love you all so much.
Buy a broken boat and you end up boulding everything from scratch ...? One thing I realy learnt by wathing you is not to buy a old Italian sailingboat...