My dad has had this camera for as long as i can remember, basically all the childhood pictures we have are from this camera that he developped in his basement photo lab ahah ! I can so distinctively hear the shutter sound in my head !
Well done, I have the 500c and very tempted to by a Hasselblad SWC ranger finder for street use. Smaller, lighter, silent and same features as a 500cm but with a view finder and zone focus.
Hey, great video! If i may ask, what kind of lightmeter are you using? I only recently got into film photography and I just can't afford a proper one. And I noticed that in one frame it seemed like you were using your phone to meter the scene, if that is so could i ask what it was and what settings you had? Because i have already tried some phone meters, but my resoults never were as good as yours!
Most cameras have a built in light meter, that in the majority of cases is enough to properly expose a scene. If it’s too old to have one or still using a selenium light meter I recommend the app lux. Just leave everything in the settings as is and change the mode to prefer overexposure.
@@tomasstach2714no problem, it also might be worth checking out the sunny 16 rule. Lets you shoot during bright scenes like the beach or smth like that without using a light meter. Very easy to learn as well.
@@thedancingduck244 Yeah I've already tried, but I would like to shoot with lower apparatuses because I do portrait work mostly. That's why I got curious about the lightmeter. But thanks for the recommendation!
I use an app that's just called "light meter - lite". It's got a paid version but I don't think I've bother paying for it because the free version has everything you need. If you watch the channel Grainydays, it's the same one he uses sometimes. Hope that helps!
The problem with any viewfinder camera with respect to to shooting people is the height of camera relative to subject’s face. Unless the camera lens axis is above the eye line of the subject the camera winds up peering up the nose holes and all things considered the view of the nostrils from above is more flattering. The SLR design also blocks out the viewfinder as the photo is taken making it impossible to tell if looking through the viewfinder if a subject had blinked. It was for those reasons top wedding photographer Monte Zucker who I assisted back in 1972-74 used a twin-lens Rolleiflex f/2.8 with the optional eye level pentaprism viewfinder when shooting weddings. The fact the shutters for most Hasselblads was in the lens, not a focal plane shutter as in 35mm was a positive thing if using flash for med. format because the flash sync speed for med. formats with focal plane shutters was very slow. - 1/60th on the Mamiya 645 I owned - which could create problems with motion blur in high ambient environments where flash would freeze the image but blur would result in from movement and ambient exposure between flash and shutter curtain closing. But the need to have the shutter built into every lens made them very expensive. The removable backs were also plus - albeit an expensive one - if using the Adams Zone System in which film development was based on lighting contrast. Adams had different film backs for different scene EV ranges.
How could a very simular camera be used to get perfect shots strapped to a space suit with a bulky helmet, you can see the accuracy you use to get precise shots, space suits could not offer such movements..nice vid
Perhaps the best medium format camera ever made (debatable), but the best overall film camera ever made has to be the Nikon F2 range culminating with the F2AS.
I also love old film cameras. Cant beat the quality. Have both Hasselblad 500 series and Rolleiflex. Honestly cant choose between them. Have had a few NikonF2 and currently F2 photomic and F2as which is possibly the best film 35mm. The nicest and smoothest, most precise 35, I would say Leica MP, M3 or M2, all of which I have owned.
That 500 sums up what an efficient camera can be with a healthy measure of pure quality. It defines the medium. Great video.
My dad has had this camera for as long as i can remember, basically all the childhood pictures we have are from this camera that he developped in his basement photo lab ahah ! I can so distinctively hear the shutter sound in my head !
very interesting video mate, those photos are super sharp
Oh man that opening shot.
Very creeative photographer, and your pictures are also very good! Your an inspiration for me to go out with my 500cm and use it!!
Paul C.
11:09 favorite shot
By a long way
Haha..I almost made that same mistake. Beautiful camera. I love mine!
Well done, I have the 500c and very tempted to by a Hasselblad SWC ranger finder for street use. Smaller, lighter, silent and same features as a 500cm but with a view finder and zone focus.
I bought one of these because the prices of Rolleiflex f2.8s are crazy atm
what did you use in order to get the top down perspective? id love to do something similar for pov video
I still have mine and in mint condition. Comparing this to the Yashica is like comparing a Yugo to a Rolls Royce (I also have owned the Yashica). IMHO
You need to try the Rollei SL66SE
Did you use the magnifying glass on the Hasselblad?
I did!
Hey, great video! If i may ask, what kind of lightmeter are you using? I only recently got into film photography and I just can't afford a proper one. And I noticed that in one frame it seemed like you were using your phone to meter the scene, if that is so could i ask what it was and what settings you had? Because i have already tried some phone meters, but my resoults never were as good as yours!
Most cameras have a built in light meter, that in the majority of cases is enough to properly expose a scene. If it’s too old to have one or still using a selenium light meter I recommend the app lux. Just leave everything in the settings as is and change the mode to prefer overexposure.
@@thedancingduck244 Thank you very much, I'll give it a go!
@@tomasstach2714no problem, it also might be worth checking out the sunny 16 rule. Lets you shoot during bright scenes like the beach or smth like that without using a light meter. Very easy to learn as well.
@@thedancingduck244 Yeah I've already tried, but I would like to shoot with lower apparatuses because I do portrait work mostly. That's why I got curious about the lightmeter. But thanks for the recommendation!
I use an app that's just called "light meter - lite". It's got a paid version but I don't think I've bother paying for it because the free version has everything you need. If you watch the channel Grainydays, it's the same one he uses sometimes. Hope that helps!
I just shot with a top model and this hasselblad 500C
The problem with any viewfinder camera with respect to to shooting people is the height of camera relative to subject’s face. Unless the camera lens axis is above the eye line of the subject the camera winds up peering up the nose holes and all things considered the view of the nostrils from above is more flattering. The SLR design also blocks out the viewfinder as the photo is taken making it impossible to tell if looking through the viewfinder if a subject had blinked. It was for those reasons top wedding photographer Monte Zucker who I assisted back in 1972-74 used a twin-lens Rolleiflex f/2.8 with the optional eye level pentaprism viewfinder when shooting weddings.
The fact the shutters for most Hasselblads was in the lens, not a focal plane shutter as in 35mm was a positive thing if using flash for med. format because the flash sync speed for med. formats with focal plane shutters was very slow. - 1/60th on the Mamiya 645 I owned - which could create problems with motion blur in high ambient environments where flash would freeze the image but blur would result in from movement and ambient exposure between flash and shutter curtain closing. But the need to have the shutter built into every lens made them very expensive.
The removable backs were also plus - albeit an expensive one - if using the Adams Zone System in which film development was based on lighting contrast. Adams had different film backs for different scene EV ranges.
How could a very simular camera be used to get perfect shots strapped to a space suit with a bulky helmet, you can see the accuracy you use to get precise shots, space suits could not offer such movements..nice vid
I have one of these that I'm looking to sell let me know if your interested. Located in las vegas
Perhaps the best medium format camera ever made (debatable), but the best overall film camera ever made has to be the Nikon F2 range culminating with the F2AS.
I also love old film cameras. Cant beat the quality. Have both Hasselblad 500 series and Rolleiflex. Honestly cant choose between them.
Have had a few NikonF2 and currently F2 photomic and F2as which is possibly the best film 35mm. The nicest and smoothest, most precise 35, I would say Leica MP, M3 or M2, all of which I have owned.
Yoooooo, I have both!
Good for you!!