How to replace front brake pads and rotors on 2012-2015 Audi A6 3.0T (C7 4G) - DIY
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- Опубліковано 25 сер 2024
- This is a video on how to replace front brake pads and rotors on Audi 2012-2015 Audi A6 3.0T (C7 4G). The procedure is nearly identical for A7, A8 and few other Audi models.
So I would recommend a couple of extra steps here. You may as well clean the brake dust out of those calipers while you're in there so it doesn't build up over time. It's a good idea to apply lube on the friction surfaces between the pads and the caliper. I also always put anti-seize between the rotor and the hub and on the threads of the rotor retaining screw to make the job easier the next time.
Nice video. Did my Q5 as well. Nearly passed out after my dealer quote for front brake replacement. Thank you for sharing your video with others.
I recommend to check the running of the drive flange hub before attempt to change the disc and the break pads if you experience steering wheel shaking. Turn the front axle and measure the play of the hub surface parallel with the brake disc surface in axial direction. The play should be less than 0.02-0.03mm. If it is bigger than it should be investigated. Please note this deviation will be multiplied at the outer edge of the brake disc, it could be 0.05 - 0.1 mm. It will shake when you break from 130km/h definitely. I had the same case, changed the disc and the pads and the situation was the same after 2k km. It turned out the car had a wheel bearing replacement before and at that time the mechanic had not got the right tool to remove the bearing inner ring from the flange hub. He used a hammer and cutter for the removal damaging the hub's shoulder and surface. The solution was to disassemble the flange hub, and correct the damages on the surfaces. I had a skilled mechanic who was able to do that therefore no costly replacement was needed.
Nice video, we aren’t all pros in the garage. That’s why we come on to watch these how to’s. It’s good to see people encounter issues, so I know I am not the only one. Your video useful and much appreciated. Thanks!
Thanks for watching and for the comments
thank you. I just finished my front brakes on my A6. saved me $1k
vashaun84, glad to hear that:)
vashaun84 Who is charging you $1K the dealer? That should be illegal.
Matt A yes Audi Dealership
I went to local Sears store and they said the same thing. 1k....
smokes how much are pads and rotors on the front. Just parts
Thank you very much for this video. This helped me a lot on my 2011 A8.
Newer generation rotors may have the option of Black rust proof coating. I personally prefer that, since you can see clearly where the rust can form. The black coating gets removed by the pad contact surface and the rest of the rotor keeps the protection.
Have you thought about the “Tire Trees” for European cars?
Good catch on using the old pad surface to compress the caliper piston, no sense in risking marring up a new pad surface.
I had never thought about greasing the caliper piston dust boots. I knew about greasing the Aslide pins hit hadn’t thought about the caliper dust boots.
Amazon sells a pretty universal fit caliper hanger. Connect one end to the Strut Tower/coil spring, other end to the caliper and hang out of the way without excessive twisting of the caliper and brake hose. Probably best $7.00 ish I have spent over. Amazon in a while!
It may be that the only thing i ever appreciatet with this car was that it was riding quietly. I watched your awesome vid, took on the Mission an changed both brakes and now i have a really weird noise. It starts at around 40 km/h and just gets louder. Like a helicopter noise. Friend who help me said it will eventually go away but hasn't after 2000 km drive 😭
Sounds like a bad bearing/hub maybe
Nice video man! Thumbs up!
I have the ebc pads and they’re massive. It requires moving that square chassis relative to the caliper. It’s controlled by those other bolts you mentioned under the caps. Yours appears fully retracted/inside and mine is not. Looks like a 9mm Allen under the caps. Any direction on this, for mine is about 1.5cm shifter outward?
Trying to find a place to put jack stands other than the jacking points... since your jack is there... any suggestions?
great video!
Ottimo!
Appreciated the video. This sounds like he just did what a non-experienced mechanic or knowing nothing about Audi doing the brake job, this is very interesting. Audi 2013 (according to the VIN) front brake pads were different from what was shown, these were pre-2013, Audi changes the design after 2012. If you want to replace pad only, you do not have replace holding bracket, just the calibre.
+Chi Ngo it's funny when I hear experienced and inexperienced. The brakes work and I saved tons of $. I took my car to the shop before (both dealer and not) and sometimes those experienced mechanics have no idea what the heck they are doing. Here at least I know what was done and that it works. Was it the correct/recommended by audi way of doing things? Not necessarily. Feel free to post your own video. I am not forcing anyone to follow this, but it works.
I'm doing this on a 2012 Q5 and I'm trying to figure out how much lb-ft to torque those 13/16 caliper mounting bolts at, do you know the specs or did you just tighten with that extension on the breaker bar till it was snug. I feel like bolts of this size can go past 90ft-lb but I dont want to snap the heads off!
I dont know the lb-ft to torque, but I don't tighten those with all my energy like some people do. Gotta feel it or know the torque
Hey! thanks for responding really quick :) I ended up torquing it to 115 pound-foot until I heard the click. No snapping bolts *phew* I'll see how that holds up and check it in about a month from now. I should probably have picked up a couple new bolts of amazon/ebay or from rock auto. I didn't have a 13/16 ratchet head only 21mm and it probably wasn't the best idea. I find it strange that VAG being of european descent uses anything imperial based at all. Then again watching your other videos I see a new bit I will need to get if I ever want to do wheel bearings. Triple square?? Ha
I know what you mean by feel though. I don't trust myself just yet... Still learning
Hey I wanted to ask, where did you guys put the jackstands under the car? The A6 has alot of plastic underneath. All I want to do is change the oil!
Pain in te butt to do change the oil from underneath. I think you have to remove all covers. I have video on how to do it differently. As far as jack stands I put them towards the front, close to the wheel where the indents in the plastic are. You may need special adapters/inserts depending on your stands.
Thanks for the reply!
2 years late on the reply but buy ramps if you haven’t by now. Makes oil changes 10x easier and faster. The jack points on my A7 suck.
@@v8squad968 Which brand ramps did you buy?
Did you finally do your oil change from underneath the Audi? If so how many panels did you remove to access the oil plug?
How many brake pad wear sensors are there? I thought on a E350. Granted different vehicle,that it was one per pad (8) and found out that there was only one per axle (2). Is it one per axle (2), one per side (4), or one per pad (8)
One per axle
Thanks....won’t be making that mistake again anytime soon... even if I get back into the Audi Market...Infiniti M37 right now but like the 2012+ A6. Fronts look straightforward but rears seem a little more complex with the EPB and Scan tool!
Will these steps be along the same lines as doing a replacement of pads and rotors on an A7? Thanks, and good video!
Yes, A7 is exactly the same
Thanks!
My Brake setup on my 2105 looks a little different on the calipers. On my A7, it has large star bits on the outside of the caliper closest to the rim.
Any help on why the star bolt holding the spring on is hitting the rim
Aftermarket rim? Caliper holder got loose orc the whistle brake assembly?
Also check retaining clips/springs. Probably lost it or damaged.
Why don't you remove the caliper bracket , makes it easier to remove the pads and then to clean and lube the slide points for the pads
Uhmmm.... because I didn't have the right size hex:), Should have been done though
@@FelekPL fair enough
I liked the video anyhow!!
Love video do you have one of the rear
truemopar I have not done rear yet. You need VCDS or something similar to unlock e-brake. I will most likely have vid later on this year
Good job boss.
can you tell us where did you get the part from? cuz what you mentioned was a good deal, I'm not able to find the same online.
Thanks for sharing this video.
Moe Noori
i got the rotors from advance auto parts. (buy online, do store pickup, use coupon code...TRT30 for 30% off, or just Google new code). brake pads I got from advance did not fit so I ordered different ones from amazon
Thanks a lot buddy, that was helpful.
Jaki rozmiar tarcz??
Zależy od silnika. Te sa 356mm
Hello. Do you know if all the rotors size are same on C7 A6? I heard there are different sizes. I have 2013 3.0T. Thanks in advance.
I was doing research before buying mine. I have 2014 A6 3.0T and the rotors are 356mm. I think the 2 liter engines may have smaller ones.
Great, thank you. My should be the same. BTW i was checking out the following rotors and brake pads: thmotorsports.com/ebc-brakes/ebc-brake-kit-s10-greenstuff-2000-and-gd-rotors/s10kf1427/i-2267379.aspx
Do you think it'll fit? I see the brake pads that you took off had 2 clips and the one I'm looking at has only 1 clip.
The rotors look nice. I originally got brake pads with 1 clip from Autozone and after taking the brakes apart I realized they were different. I am not a mechanic, but my guess would be that yours are same as mine - 2 metal clips on the back.
3.0 TDi 150KW EU got 320mm in front
@ Felek what brand of rotors and pads are these?
No idea...advanced auto parts.
I had my rotors and brake pads changed on my 2012 A6 3.0 but i noticed that they squeal when i press on the brakes. Does anyone know what is causing the squealing? It's irritating hearing that when pressings on the brakes.
It depends on the rotors and brakes you purchased. It happens. You can spray them with brake cleaner. It may help
@@FelekPL does it matter if they are semi metallic or ceramic? Which ones do you recommend?
@@enriquezamarripa6249 It matters, different materials have different benefits. I've had ceramics that were quiet and ceramics that were making noise. I think even the last pads I got were making noise after few thousand miles so I got new pads also ceramic and have been driving on those quietly since March last year. You may want to look at this - www.autoanything.com/resources/what-are-the-best-brake-pads-ceramic-or-semi-metallic/
People when you are replacing pads you have to retract brake calliper, make sure you open brake fluid reservoir so that u let pressure out and in this case u can basically retract it with your fingers... Good old tip!
Milos Stokic good tip.I'm pretty sure I did that, just not in the video
Where did u buy the vcsd?
You mean the software and cable?(VCDS) From Ross-Tech
@@tomfelczynski689 yes
I wonder if he noticed the can under the car before her drove off.
Haha, I did, as soon as I dropped the car lol. My bad
good work, but get better tools:) and its painful to watch you wrestle with the pads