that moment when the gear isnt going in, that bad large cam gets placed... she knows it isnt great, she's barely holding on, panic sets in... THAT is what climbing is all about. they captured that beautifully and you dont get to see those moments in climbing movies. such a great film.
I was there two weeks ago when I went to this place called Quartz Mountain in OK. It's like a small alpine granite crag sitting in the middle of Oklahoma fields. The gear is all tricky as hell and most stuff is pretty run out. I had such a good time lol.
Fantastic! Amazing glimpse of two of the world's best climbers on a long complex thin air climb - this isn't the gym! I can't believe yahoos are criticizing Lisa for the way she tackled the last 5.12 crux - you people lead 5.12 anything? Ever try placing gear in a 5.12 overhanging flared crack, after multiple 5.12 sections just getting there? . Anybody that's done that, or tried that, knows what she was up against. BTW, I don't climb 5.12 - I max out on 11a crack leads, 12+ trad is just unimaginable. That was a fantastic effort and she committed to going for it and not "taking". Unbelievable to me she almost on-sighted that pitch. I've watch Peter climb on the Cookie and in Owen's River Gorge and he is always smooth and effortless, seeing him work in that searing stem pitch and getting that tips seam was amazing. I've had the pleasure of meeting Peter and Lisa out in the world, what a sport, where a bumbly can meet and hang out with the best.
Lisa: "I started panicking... I went into bad technique mode" Peter: "I know the feeling" Such a real doc. I appreciate the way the process was captured.
Peter certainly gets it. When he was talking about the whole climbing experience,.the wild flowers and everything. That is what it is for me, friends, the wind, the beauty of the mt. even the grinding climbs to start a climb. Thanks for sharing
What a dream to be taken up a Croft F.A. by the man himself. Especially a line that amazing. Lisa humble nature with Crofts appreciation of life make this video a real heart warmer. Go Evolv!
I can't believe I had never been told of this great vignette; I was fortunate to know Lisa and do some trad climbing with her when she was in college. A great person and climber.
Beautiful captures something you don't see in a lot of videos. The process. Love that sequence where she struggles with placements and panic-mode sets in. All climbers know those moments. You walk away always remembering them.
Such a poetic climber Peter Croft.... for a moment there my hands were sweating remembering my own desperation I have felt in those tenuous moments when it seems that nothing is working and I'm about to let go...
Only the back half held the front cams just stabilized it, but at that level any pro is better than none. Personally I would have rather seen a nut/stopper in those spots.
Funny, I've done little climbing, like 5.9 max years ago, but that placement looked shakey. Like she didn't fully load the cam before jamming. Like Jonny Bock said, just a little panicky maybe. Not to knock, she's Awesome!
I love to see the old guys teaching the younger ones the real ways of trad climbing, I am only 19 but i learned from some of the old school guys and you take so much more out of the rock when you trad climbing.
10:52 the left cam lobe looks like it is on the outer limit must be great rock not to crumble or slip. Must be holding primarily on the inside. Excellent vid, excellent climbing, superb route. *****
all the great climbers and mountaineers are very humble. probably something to do with facing death so much, as well as feeling the insignificance of a human "ant" in relation to the vastness of the natural world. egotistical assholes are usually the types who stay home and watch TV all the time, or perhaps work their lives away in middle-management type bullshit paper pushing jobs... the great outdoors is very humbling!
Great video, thanks. Had to laugh when Lisa Rands asks if her gear was ok - this is on a 5.12 alpine wall. Well, its better to learn about this late, than never.
Wow, nice video. That one is now on my to do list right after getting Astroman. That bit at 10:00 where she is struggling to find gear is just such a good example of how it is.
The Rocky Mountain Range= The Rockies The Appalachian Mountain Range= The Appalachians The Himalaya Mountain Range= The Himalayas The Sierra Nevada Mountain Range= The Sierras There is a tradition of referring to mountain ranges by making their name a plural. It's a little awkward because the Sierra Nevada is a foreign name that contains the word "Range" in it, but it doesn't matter.
I recommend buying the reel rock film, if not just for this, but also for Ueli Steck's clip, I'm not an alpinist, but this is easily my favourite climbing clip. Are there any new movies on the way? I need a hit.
good point, but this route is so straight up and direct you can probably dispense with them in many places. a true traditionalist would at least add a 1/4 or 1/2-length sling though...i don't go trad climbing without at least 12 full length slings (some fashioned into extendable 1/3 style for racking purposes) and usually 3 or 4 doubles and maybe a triple or two as well. Modern dyneema or spectra slings are so thin and light there is no reason (besides money!) for not taking a lot of them.
WOW.. from 9:50 to 10:00 -lessons on how NOT to place a cam AWESOME video otherwise, very inspirational.. I hope I get a chance to try that route out one day
dude, when you are gripped, tired, and feeling desperate anything is better than nothing, and on a route like this, even if 2 or 3 pieces pull out you are very unlikely to get hurt anyways. i've taken 35 and 40 foot whippers when a piece or two pulled...its usually not a huge deal. you take what you can get...placing a piece can take a lot of energy too, so sometimes fiddling around is more dangerous than just jamming something in and continuing on..
Ever hear of your thoughts create your reality? Let's say you start climbing, which you should because nothing else compares, and you think that constantly. Well unfortunately it will happen not because of the "faulty equipment," but because of that negative thinking. Gear now a days are sooooo advanced that only minor mistakes, or people pushing themselves to the fullest limits sometimes, only sometimes, leads to death/injury. Just go climb it will make you happy :)
You said you want to sport climb, I think you meant trad climb. Generally sport is safer. Trad is a different animal. I once let a girl lead a trad pitch for the first time. She was a great climber and climbed harder than me. She was cruising 5.11 on top rope, and made it look easy. So I thought a 5.6, that was easy to protect, was well within her ability. Anyway, she ran it out and about 40 ft of easy terrain and placed a cam at the first hard move. She struggled with the move and ended up pulling on the cam to make the move. The cam ripped out and she fell the 40 ft. Luckily , she walked away with only cuts, bruises and a broken tail bone. It freaked me out for months afterwards, and I have never belayed another beginner trad climber since then. If you do want to start trad, take my advise, place lots of pro and start out on climbs where you won't fall, and have someone check your placements. And sometimes a bad placement is better than no placement at all. PS- I never saw that girl again.
i'm sitting at my desk watching this during exams. i can't stand it, the outdoors and watching the climbing make me feel like i'm looked in prison. I need to get out and climb!
wow that's pretty cool. Good on Lisa for pushing through, you can tell she was shit at placing gear back then, so nothing but respect, makes easy moves so hard when you're pissing yourself about getting a piece in. Peter Croft is a legend and that's very well-deserved in my opinion. Also those offset, flaring lobes after Lisa fell on the 5.12+ pitch, yikes!
that moment when the gear isnt going in, that bad large cam gets placed... she knows it isnt great, she's barely holding on, panic sets in... THAT is what climbing is all about. they captured that beautifully and you dont get to see those moments in climbing movies. such a great film.
Totally agree. She threw it in and I was like "hahah that is shit" lol. A great and genuine moment.
Been there ... made my palms sweat a bit
I was there two weeks ago when I went to this place called Quartz Mountain in OK. It's like a small alpine granite crag sitting in the middle of Oklahoma fields. The gear is all tricky as hell and most stuff is pretty run out. I had such a good time lol.
My palms were sweating watching that part
haha, it held though
Peter Croft is such an inspiration. Wish we had more footage of him. What a legend.
Fantastic! Amazing glimpse of two of the world's best climbers on a long complex thin air climb - this isn't the gym! I can't believe yahoos are criticizing Lisa for the way she tackled the last 5.12 crux - you people lead 5.12 anything? Ever try placing gear in a 5.12 overhanging flared crack, after multiple 5.12 sections just getting there? . Anybody that's done that, or tried that, knows what she was up against. BTW, I don't climb 5.12 - I max out on 11a crack leads, 12+ trad is just unimaginable. That was a fantastic effort and she committed to going for it and not "taking". Unbelievable to me she almost on-sighted that pitch. I've watch Peter climb on the Cookie and in Owen's River Gorge and he is always smooth and effortless, seeing him work in that searing stem pitch and getting that tips seam was amazing.
I've had the pleasure of meeting Peter and Lisa out in the world, what a sport, where a bumbly can meet and hang out with the best.
Lisa: "I started panicking... I went into bad technique mode"
Peter: "I know the feeling"
Such a real doc. I appreciate the way the process was captured.
Anyone who has done any trad leading, or any leading at all know that feeling Lisa.
Peter certainly gets it. When he was talking about the whole climbing experience,.the wild flowers and everything. That is what it is for me, friends, the wind, the beauty of the mt. even the grinding climbs to start a climb. Thanks for sharing
What a dream to be taken up a Croft F.A. by the man himself. Especially a line that amazing. Lisa humble nature with Crofts appreciation of life make this video a real heart warmer. Go Evolv!
Still one of the best short climbing films I've watched.
This is my favourite reel rock video ever. Watching Peter Croft climb is pure joy. I watch it sometimes just to cheer myself up. Absolutely love it!
Wow! That cam at 10:52...can't believe it held! Great footage!
Fantastically made film. Unlike so many, it really communicates that moment of fear and difficulty when she is on the crux.
I can't believe I had never been told of this great vignette; I was fortunate to know Lisa and do some trad climbing with her when she was in college.
A great person and climber.
Beautiful captures something you don't see in a lot of videos. The process. Love that sequence where she struggles with placements and panic-mode sets in. All climbers know those moments. You walk away always remembering them.
I can't believe it took me this long to watch this video. What a perfect example of hard alpine climbing. Gets me stoked!
Peter Croft. What a guy! Also Lisa is a legend on her own. If you’ve climbed on the Hulk, you know that route is nails hard.
Such a poetic climber Peter Croft.... for a moment there my hands were sweating remembering my own desperation I have felt in those tenuous moments when it seems that nothing is working and I'm about to let go...
I have been climbing and caving since the 70's. the most important thing is being out there with family and friends havin' a good time xx
This is honestly one of the most beautiful videos I've ever seen. amazing.
Great to see Peter Croft as graceful as ever. Nicely shot piece! A true mountain climber.
Superbly done, Croft, climbing and production! One of the few climbing vids I've seen that really puts you there.
Edit: The videography is exemplary!
Peter Croft: Legend, FunHog & all around good guy
Lisa Rands is such a balanced climber, and Peter is like... just awesome.
God, that cam she placed at 10:00. I'm surprised it held.
Even so though... To me it just looked like she was feeling knackered, out of her depth and desperate to put anything in - before she slipped.
Only the back half held the front cams just stabilized it, but at that level any pro is better than none. Personally I would have rather seen a nut/stopper in those spots.
I cringed so hard when she placed that lol
Funny, I've done little climbing, like 5.9 max years ago, but that placement looked shakey. Like she didn't fully load the cam before jamming. Like Jonny Bock said, just a little panicky maybe. Not to knock, she's Awesome!
I love to see the old guys teaching the younger ones the real ways of trad climbing, I am only 19 but i learned from some of the old school guys and you take so much more out of the rock when you trad climbing.
Great short film. I agree with Peter, the Sierras are a special place.
One of my favorite movies on youtube for sure! Awesome! I hope I can stand at the bottom of the Hulk some day with the skills to attempt that climb.
10:52 the left cam lobe looks like it is on the outer limit must be great rock not to crumble or slip. Must be holding primarily on the inside. Excellent vid, excellent climbing, superb route. *****
I met Peter while he was soloing at the Owens River Gorge yesterday. A truly humble and knowledgeable man.
all the great climbers and mountaineers are very humble. probably something to do with facing death so much, as well as feeling the insignificance of a human "ant" in relation to the vastness of the natural world. egotistical assholes are usually the types who stay home and watch TV all the time, or perhaps work their lives away in middle-management type bullshit paper pushing jobs... the great outdoors is very humbling!
Ummm.... No
Great filming really captures those desperate moments. Glad her pro held, Good one !!!
To say Peter Croft is inspiring is a huge understatement! I wish I could Boulder half as well as Lisa!
If you know Peter, you know he wasn't just being nice for the camera. He genuinely is a nice guy.
Watching Peter go to work at 6:10 is (I imagine) much like watching Picasso paint.
Great, great video. Wonderful capturing what it was like for Lisa at that crux. Never get tired of seeing Peter Croft on stone.
Peter is such a pompous, self-aggrandizing d bag
Pretty amazing cinematography.
I first climbed with Peter in 1989 in Tuolumne. Glad one of us is still getting out there.
Yep 🤔☹️😭
RIP Hayden. Fantastic film!
So glad I found this. It’s really nice to look back at things when there was a lot more soul and humility.
Great video, thanks. Had to laugh when Lisa Rands asks if her gear was ok - this is on a 5.12 alpine wall. Well, its better to learn about this late, than never.
Peter, you really inspired me as a young man. Still at it 20yrs later.
Peter Croft is alive and well, don't scare me like that.
Oh, crap! Was thinking of Todd Skinner. Shit, that was burnt. Lol
wow, incredible video
Wow, nice video. That one is now on my to do list right after getting Astroman. That bit at 10:00 where she is struggling to find gear is just such a good example of how it is.
peter croft seems like such a good soul. mucho respect
Such a beautiful film, inspires me to go climbing outside everytime...preferably a big line
Very nice scene, beautiful nature.
RIP Hayden, you did a great job on this film
This is the real stuff. Grades are irrelevant; the experience is all.
Great shots
Great work, as always.
amazing climbing. I can't wait to do big walls myself... But there is hell of a lot climbing ahead to be good enough...
Did u ever?
Damn the cam was fully flared! Good Jobs Lisa way to get out of your comfort zone. I learned a lot from this video.
What does that mean??? Fully flared.
the lobes of the cam were flared out (as in not compressed enough within the crack) not a good placement.
Thanx a lot!! I was searching this song so long... :)
10:09 that sequence is everything, thats what its all about
Excellent vid!
Outstanding video. Nice job Bigupproductions
so inspiring!!
What a great video!
I met him a few times on climbs in the valley. I agree completely.
Great film
Sierra! A single mountain range named "Kayopha, the sky and the peaks that touch it" by the California Miwok.
The Rocky Mountain Range= The Rockies
The Appalachian Mountain Range= The Appalachians
The Himalaya Mountain Range= The Himalayas
The Sierra Nevada Mountain Range= The Sierras
There is a tradition of referring to mountain ranges by making their name a plural. It's a little awkward because the Sierra Nevada is a foreign name that contains the word "Range" in it, but it doesn't matter.
nice work !!!
This guys shaving using his glasses as a mirror. What a stud
PC seems like one of the kindest, chillest climbers.
Great upload, thanks =]
That is one tough lady.
Shes got bigger balls than me
Tremendo y notable Peter
Amazing!
amazing climbing
When you've got the hulk looming in the background
cool and Canadian, he's a very good mentor to have, looks like
awesome climb.
I recommend buying the reel rock film, if not just for this, but also for Ueli Steck's clip, I'm not an alpinist, but this is easily my favourite climbing clip.
Are there any new movies on the way? I need a hit.
What a legend! The most modest and cool guy in climbing. I'd love to climb with him. Astroman Peter???
Adam Palmer ...... Peter did the first solo of AstroMan
I have not seen a picture or video of Peter in years ... he is getting pretty old like some of the rest of us. He is still very good!
Nice video, climbing :)
This is great. I was surprised to see few slings being used to extend from the cams. Not afraid of them walking?
good point, but this route is so straight up and direct you can probably dispense with them in many places. a true traditionalist would at least add a 1/4 or 1/2-length sling though...i don't go trad climbing without at least 12 full length slings (some fashioned into extendable 1/3 style for racking purposes) and usually 3 or 4 doubles and maybe a triple or two as well. Modern dyneema or spectra slings are so thin and light there is no reason (besides money!) for not taking a lot of them.
Probably because the route is so steep
9:59 - That cam looks dangerous. I don't know too much about trad, but I think it probably wouldn't hold.
Wright Frost it did hold, that's the one she fell on.
+Wright Frost They show it at 10:55
i have climbed with peter in jtree and taquitz. when he's leading and he starts to huff and puff like this you know your goose is cooked.
love rock climbing...))
WOW.. from 9:50 to 10:00 -lessons on how NOT to place a cam
AWESOME video otherwise, very inspirational.. I hope I get a chance to try that route out one day
dude, when you are gripped, tired, and feeling desperate anything is better than nothing, and on a route like this, even if 2 or 3 pieces pull out you are very unlikely to get hurt anyways. i've taken 35 and 40 foot whippers when a piece or two pulled...its usually not a huge deal. you take what you can get...placing a piece can take a lot of energy too, so sometimes fiddling around is more dangerous than just jamming something in and continuing on..
@RobbieChopSticks haha yeah not that part thought someone would say that in the beginning of the vid
Wow sing me up I want to try .i think I can I think I can looks so awesome 😎 I
I big route like this will require rappelling. Probably to several rappel stations.
Awesome
I want to sport climb, but it's so hard for me to trust the gear. I just picture the cam getting ripped out and me falling 50 feet!
Ever hear of your thoughts create your reality? Let's say you start climbing, which you should because nothing else compares, and you think that constantly. Well unfortunately it will happen not because of the "faulty equipment," but because of that negative thinking. Gear now a days are sooooo advanced that only minor mistakes, or people pushing themselves to the fullest limits sometimes, only sometimes, leads to death/injury. Just go climb it will make you happy :)
You said you want to sport climb, I think you meant trad climb. Generally sport is safer. Trad is a different animal. I once let a girl lead a trad pitch for the first time. She was a great climber and climbed harder than me. She was cruising 5.11 on top rope, and made it look easy. So I thought a 5.6, that was easy to protect, was well within her ability. Anyway, she ran it out and about 40 ft of easy terrain and placed a cam at the first hard move. She struggled with the move and ended up pulling on the cam to make the move. The cam ripped out and she fell the 40 ft. Luckily , she walked away with only cuts, bruises and a broken tail bone. It freaked me out for months afterwards, and I have never belayed another beginner trad climber since then. If you do want to start trad, take my advise, place lots of pro and start out on climbs where you won't fall, and have someone check your placements. And sometimes a bad placement is better than no placement at all. PS- I never saw that girl again.
well done.
i'm sitting at my desk watching this during exams. i can't stand it, the outdoors and watching the climbing make me feel like i'm looked in prison. I need to get out and climb!
Now, this is a man who knows how to put fingers to granite!
Ok, so stupid question. How do they get their anchors back?
I love it
"with the Hulk in the background" its the name of the mountain.
Great movie!
Please, does anyone know the name of song @2:09 ?
when you've got the hulk looming in he background.
that cam at 10:50.... :O
the song at the end is so good. anybody know it?
10:57 And got so far?
Dude reminds me of William Devane.
it looks like theres blood everywhere
wow that's pretty cool. Good on Lisa for pushing through, you can tell she was shit at placing gear back then, so nothing but respect, makes easy moves so hard when you're pissing yourself about getting a piece in. Peter Croft is a legend and that's very well-deserved in my opinion. Also those offset, flaring lobes after Lisa fell on the 5.12+ pitch, yikes!
thanks alot! @nomensteven
BEST!
How do they film this stuff