This video helped so much, and maybe some of this info will help you (if you have to do this too). Wish I could add pictures. You will want to have a magnetic tray to save all the dash screws taken out, and maybe nail polish/blue tape to remember where they go back. Radio trim, defrost trim, glove box both sides (I did a 2008 liberty) speedo cluster, Center console!, radio tray support under radio, side trim from dash up to sunvisor, etc. will need to come off. The heater core is built into the diverter box, and comes out in one piece. Not bad. He shows this. Just disconnect heater hoses. I did not disconnect wire from int. through firewall, but I did cut tape to give it slack. Dash is really wedged in there and you will need to get the bolts on pass/driver sides out, and the bolts in dash above the radio and glove box. Those are the main ones. Working the dash loose from passenger side will eventually give you enough space to work the box out to replace it. Like him i used rope to keep it pulled back. Had to file the new box to get heater core in easily but not bad. And I used silicone caulk to hold foam on the box and vent fittings. Silicone spray is nice to have.
Nice video. I did it similar but I took the steering wheel off and rolled the dash forward. Without the dash and steering wheel in the way, I can sit right in front of the blower and easily remove all the clips and fasteners with speed tools. I left the AC lines connected. If you keep the wheel straight it's not scary at all. The harness connections only go in one way. It's impossible to miswire something. I did whole job in 3 hours
We were successful in changing the hearer core and heater core encloser without removing the steering colum too. We pulled the dash outer half out and then pulled the lower half towards the steering wheel while it was held there was enough room to slide in from passenger side and do the work. I'm not sure if the dash was suppose to be 2 parts it was glued together. There or 2 bolts under the steering column we had a hard time finding to release the inner half the dash. Good luck folks took 6 hours.
Thanks for making the video... but in the future try not to spin the housing around in random directions every few seconds. Doing so makes it EXTREMELY difficult to visualize what surface were looking at and where or what direction it attaches to under the dash. Appreciate it....
To match the vents, and hot and cold.... My box came with the gearing already installed, and a side cover. I just had to fit the motors. I don't think you want to interchange/mix the motors. The bottom motor (heat) turns clockwise when powered, the upper counter clockwise (memory serving me). My box had the vents all the way to one side, one way or the other. I believe the lower was all the way to the left/counterclockwise (for the heat). The upper all the way clockwise (Opposite to lower). So, if you plug in just the tiny motors and have the key on (I had battery charger connected) and have the hot/cold dials hooked up. You will want to turn on the dials (from off ..to on) and watch them spin, and hopefully "stop" where you need it to line-up with the div. box. when you turn it to off. That is, when you turn it off, it needs to align with the div. box where it is stopped/all the way clockwise/counter clockwise. If it is, you cant really strip the gears because when you turn it on (and it's aligned) it will only turn the way it "can" turn (not the opposite) and not be out of alignment or strip the gears. It just takes time to set it by turning it on/off enough to match it up. Use tape/finger polish/something to help see where it needs to align up. The motors only fit one way onto the box. Hope that helped. Saved me 4 figures thanks to utube/this video/and y'all with suggestions, thx.
Thank god finally someone that shows something usefull. I have a question i have a little heat on my jeep liberty 2002 3.7L when i have it on speed 1-2 not hot but warm heat i dont get it if i go to speed 3 and above i get reg air not warm or cold . I flushed the heater core nothing bad came out back flushed it through both hoses water wasnt too dirty etc etc. I want to know if this could be my blend doors? Or acuator. I dont get any air on my feet 🦶 when i turn the knob for the foot heating setting on the knob. I only get air on the defroster and the vents that blow towards me thats it. What could my problem be? I have sufficient antifreeze topped off heater core seems good et etc
Sorry for the late reply. If you are not getting any air to your feet it is most likely your air directional actuators/flippers. If you had it on heat and were only getting cold air yet then it would most likely be a blender or plugged core. Heat on passenger side but not driver side is usually a plugged or bad core as these jeeps didn't ever come with dual climate control to my knowledge. If it did have dual climate then that also could also be a blender door issue. If possible you should be able to try to watch if the actuators are moving the blender doors when you change settings. Hope that helps.
@Christopher Cravens Hey sorry I am not the best a keeping up with comments. The heater box might have stripped gears and the flipper could be really off in timing. You could try to re-time the actuators by removing the actuator, adjusting the box manually and then putting the actuator back on.
@@aaronsk-5s Do you have information on the home position of damper blades with the actuators to prevent stripping gears again? Btw, Thanks for the video! I haven't done this yet but I am prepping for it.
Honestly I don't remember exactly how they need to be but if you play with the actuators and think about how the blender door needs to move you should be able to figure it out by observation. So like if you were to set say the blender to an extreme setting like hot or cold and see which way the gear turns till it stops. This is going to be an extreme location for the blender door. Hopefully that makes sense.
So I loosen up the H/AC box to get extra clearance, and lowered the steering wheel, was able to get in with little problems. Total cost was just under $300 for blend door box and heater core, with gaskets. For a Dodge 2008 Nitro.
You were able to remove the heater box without removing the steering wheel? I’ve been putting this off in my nitro Bc I don’t want to remove the steering wheel.
Great vid. Just curious, how long did this job take you from start to finish? My 2010 has the same stripped gear on the directional flow door. I manually turned the gear to a position I liked and locked it in place.
This all looks easy enough, though time consuming. I cant find information on the controls location when installing the new air box. For example where does the temperature dial start in the new air box. The direction control? Fan speed would not matter as it is controlled by a resistor. If the temp a d directional control are not in correct position it would seem to be creating the same issue that made gear go bad. Need to have the actuators in the correct position to ensure no damage to the new box as the actuator is most likely what tore up that gear. How did you line the controls up with new box?
The old actuator locations do matter. Its best to set them to an extreme on the dial before disconnecting. Then when you plug them back in just make sure the dial is set to the same position the actuator was disconnected in. Also be sure to set the heater box to that matching position.
@@BrianMitchell321 You know I actually did it a couple months ago. We didn't take the dash out! Just pulled it back with a bungee cord and left the steering column on and everything. Ended up working total fine.
@@deangamey2054 I did one today in 3 hours I found it was easier just to take everything out and move it out of the way and I took the whole assembly out instead of trying to fight with it but I did notice the heater core slides into a slot in the side instead of having to take the secondary box apart like he did
@@BrianMitchell321 I see. I should clarify. The one we did was on a 2004 Jeep Liberty 3.0 L. We pulled the dash back and were able to pull the entire assembly out with ease, replace the core then slide it back in. Hardest part was remembering to plug everything in and screw everything back in the way It was before otherwise an easy job. it took a solid 6 hrs with two ppl
@@timkirschbaum391 I just did this job. You remove the screws and clips shown on the video. You remove three black 10mm nuts with large captive washers. Two under passenger footwell, one under the heater hose on the engine compartment side of firewall. This lets you tug the driver side of the box forward enough to get the air diverter/heater core part out without touching the AC lines. They will flex a little but they will be fine if you don't force anything. I removed the steering wheel, and the 15 minutes it took to remove and install was worth it for the time I saved being able to work in a well lit, comfortable sitting position. I finished the entire job in about 3 hours.
Hi, I am unsure on the exact process for a 2005 (kj) as that year had a slightly different setup (as far as I know) than the 2008 and onward liberty (kk). The example in the video is a 2012 (kk).
This video helped so much, and maybe some of this info will help you (if you have to do this too). Wish I could add pictures. You will want to have a magnetic tray to save all the dash screws taken out, and maybe nail polish/blue tape to remember where they go back. Radio trim, defrost trim, glove box both sides (I did a 2008 liberty) speedo cluster, Center console!, radio tray support under radio, side trim from dash up to sunvisor, etc. will need to come off. The heater core is built into the diverter box, and comes out in one piece. Not bad. He shows this. Just disconnect heater hoses. I did not disconnect wire from int. through firewall, but I did cut tape to give it slack. Dash is really wedged in there and you will need to get the bolts on pass/driver sides out, and the bolts in dash above the radio and glove box. Those are the main ones. Working the dash loose from passenger side will eventually give you enough space to work the box out to replace it. Like him i used rope to keep it pulled back. Had to file the new box to get heater core in easily but not bad. And I used silicone caulk to hold foam on the box and vent fittings. Silicone spray is nice to have.
Nice video. I did it similar but I took the steering wheel off and rolled the dash forward. Without the dash and steering wheel in the way, I can sit right in front of the blower and easily remove all the clips and fasteners with speed tools. I left the AC lines connected. If you keep the wheel straight it's not scary at all. The harness connections only go in one way. It's impossible to miswire something.
I did whole job in 3 hours
We were successful in changing the hearer core and heater core encloser without removing the steering colum too. We pulled the dash outer half out and then pulled the lower half towards the steering wheel while it was held there was enough room to slide in from passenger side and do the work. I'm not sure if the dash was suppose to be 2 parts it was glued together. There or 2 bolts under the steering column we had a hard time finding to release the inner half the dash. Good luck folks took 6 hours.
Yup I did it like you ,I started at 8 am and ended by 4 pm ,it was hell but got it done .👍
Thanks for making the video... but in the future try not to spin the housing around in random directions every few seconds. Doing so makes it EXTREMELY difficult to visualize what surface were looking at and where or what direction it attaches to under the dash. Appreciate it....
Thanks for the tip!
AND people wonder WHY old SUVs and Trucks are getting really popular????????
I'm going with a Sawzall and angle grinder. This will create the perfect winter beater
Perfect! 🤣
To match the vents, and hot and cold.... My box came with the gearing already installed, and a side cover. I just had to fit the motors. I don't think you want to interchange/mix the motors. The bottom motor (heat) turns clockwise when powered, the upper counter clockwise (memory serving me). My box had the vents all the way to one side, one way or the other. I believe the lower was all the way to the left/counterclockwise (for the heat). The upper all the way clockwise (Opposite to lower). So, if you plug in just the tiny motors and have the key on (I had battery charger connected) and have the hot/cold dials hooked up. You will want to turn on the dials (from off ..to on) and watch them spin, and hopefully "stop" where you need it to line-up with the div. box. when you turn it to off. That is, when you turn it off, it needs to align with the div. box where it is stopped/all the way clockwise/counter clockwise. If it is, you cant really strip the gears because when you turn it on (and it's aligned) it will only turn the way it "can" turn (not the opposite) and not be out of alignment or strip the gears. It just takes time to set it by turning it on/off enough to match it up. Use tape/finger polish/something to help see where it needs to align up. The motors only fit one way onto the box. Hope that helped. Saved me 4 figures thanks to utube/this video/and y'all with suggestions, thx.
ps no need to remove a/c core, or depressurize.. its in the fan area and not part of the dash, or new box install
Thank you sooooo much for this video! I would've never been able to do this job if it wasn't for this video.
Thank god finally someone that shows something usefull. I have a question i have a little heat on my jeep liberty 2002 3.7L when i have it on speed 1-2 not hot but warm heat i dont get it if i go to speed 3 and above i get reg air not warm or cold . I flushed the heater core nothing bad came out back flushed it through both hoses water wasnt too dirty etc etc. I want to know if this could be my blend doors? Or acuator. I dont get any air on my feet 🦶 when i turn the knob for the foot heating setting on the knob. I only get air on the defroster and the vents that blow towards me thats it. What could my problem be? I have sufficient antifreeze topped off heater core seems good et etc
Sorry for the late reply. If you are not getting any air to your feet it is most likely your air directional actuators/flippers. If you had it on heat and were only getting cold air yet then it would most likely be a blender or plugged core. Heat on passenger side but not driver side is usually a plugged or bad core as these jeeps didn't ever come with dual climate control to my knowledge. If it did have dual climate then that also could also be a blender door issue. If possible you should be able to try to watch if the actuators are moving the blender doors when you change settings. Hope that helps.
@Christopher Cravens Hey sorry I am not the best a keeping up with comments. The heater box might have stripped gears and the flipper could be really off in timing. You could try to re-time the actuators by removing the actuator, adjusting the box manually and then putting the actuator back on.
@@aaronsk-5s Do you have information on the home position of damper blades with the actuators to prevent stripping gears again? Btw, Thanks for the video! I haven't done this yet but I am prepping for it.
Honestly I don't remember exactly how they need to be but if you play with the actuators and think about how the blender door needs to move you should be able to figure it out by observation. So like if you were to set say the blender to an extreme setting like hot or cold and see which way the gear turns till it stops. This is going to be an extreme location for the blender door. Hopefully that makes sense.
So I loosen up the H/AC box to get extra clearance, and lowered the steering wheel, was able to get in with little problems. Total cost was just under $300 for blend door box and heater core, with gaskets. For a Dodge 2008 Nitro.
You were able to remove the heater box without removing the steering wheel? I’ve been putting this off in my nitro Bc I don’t want to remove the steering wheel.
Great vid. Just curious, how long did this job take you from start to finish? My 2010 has the same stripped gear on the directional flow door. I manually turned the gear to a position I liked and locked it in place.
Expect about 4-5 hours doing it as I did.
How you locked in place cause when i do always goes back .
@@aaronsk-5s I cant get driver side lose . Is there a bolt I am missing ?
Thanks for this video. Helped me a lot.
Was this part 2? You keep mentioning some other guy's video.
God im glad i live in Florida. Bypass.
If only we could do that in Wisconsin haha. I did debate running a buddy heater for a bit 🤣
Doesnt help when you dont show which bolts to remove on the driver's side.
This all looks easy enough, though time consuming. I cant find information on the controls location when installing the new air box. For example where does the temperature dial start in the new air box. The direction control? Fan speed would not matter as it is controlled by a resistor. If the temp a d directional control are not in correct position it would seem to be creating the same issue that made gear go bad. Need to have the actuators in the correct position to ensure no damage to the new box as the actuator is most likely what tore up that gear. How did you line the controls up with new box?
If you plug your old box into the actuators you can see how the actuators/doors position themselves. Then set the control to match the new box.
If it doesn't come naturally to you then you shouldn't be in there messing with it
Done. Its a long process,. Also had to do back passenger window motor which is also difficult. Ford is way easier!
You need a Benadryl, the sniffing and snarfing is distracting. You’re clearing your throat because your sinuses are draining.
When you put on old actuator locations matter. do you need to see a specific orientation before installing?
The old actuator locations do matter. Its best to set them to an extreme on the dial before disconnecting. Then when you plug them back in just make sure the dial is set to the same position the actuator was disconnected in. Also be sure to set the heater box to that matching position.
My friend taking a steering wheel it's only takes 2 minutes and taking out the whole dash it's another hour.you made this job look like shit
Yes the steering wheel is easily removed but not everyone is comfortable doing that. If you are then this isn't the video for you.
Hi, can you help me? Do you onow wher is located evapprator temp sensor? Need to replace them
Hello. Great video. Was wondering, when you mention the other video, do you have a link to that other video? I can't seem to find it
Search 2010 Dodge Nitro and it's pretty much the same video
It would have been a lot easier just to take the dash out
@@BrianMitchell321 You know I actually did it a couple months ago. We didn't take the dash out! Just pulled it back with a bungee cord and left the steering column on and everything. Ended up working total fine.
@@deangamey2054 I did one today in 3 hours I found it was easier just to take everything out and move it out of the way and I took the whole assembly out instead of trying to fight with it but I did notice the heater core slides into a slot in the side instead of having to take the secondary box apart like he did
@@BrianMitchell321 I see. I should clarify. The one we did was on a 2004 Jeep Liberty 3.0 L. We pulled the dash back and were able to pull the entire assembly out with ease, replace the core then slide it back in. Hardest part was remembering to plug everything in and screw everything back in the way It was before otherwise an easy job. it took a solid 6 hrs with two ppl
How are you not removing the AC? Is there a way to pull dash off without draining the system?
Correct the HVAC tunnel is left in place and AC lines are not disconnected.
@@aaronsk-5s Do you have a video that shows removing the heater box from the entire HVAC tunnel?
@@timkirschbaum391 I just did this job. You remove the screws and clips shown on the video. You remove three black 10mm nuts with large captive washers. Two under passenger footwell, one under the heater hose on the engine compartment side of firewall. This lets you tug the driver side of the box forward enough to get the air diverter/heater core part out without touching the AC lines. They will flex a little but they will be fine if you don't force anything. I removed the steering wheel, and the 15 minutes it took to remove and install was worth it for the time I saved being able to work in a well lit, comfortable sitting position. I finished the entire job in about 3 hours.
What other video?
I HAVE 2005 JEEP LIBERTY, DO I REALLY NEED MESS WITH A/C AND DEPREASURISED WHOLE SISTEM, I CAN'T FIND INFO ON THIS LITTLE PART? THANKS.
Hi, I am unsure on the exact process for a 2005 (kj) as that year had a slightly different setup (as far as I know) than the 2008 and onward liberty (kk). The example in the video is a 2012 (kk).
This is the hard way I letterally did it in about 30 mins you guys getting 3/6 hours are crazy
Sure you did....😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Scrap it? lol