Painting company owner here... A few tips and critiques.... 1. Always remove the doors/drawers and label them. It might seem obvious where they go, but believe me, it's not. 2. Make sure that your top coat is rated for cabinetry. Emerald is rated for wood, but not specifically cabinetry because the cured topcoat isn't hard enough. This is the biggest mistake I see in DIY cabinet jobs and it's one of the most costly to fix. If it's not rated for cabinetry, it will chip/peel in the most used areas. 3. Clean, clean, clean. Mild detergent and water. Scrub with a green pad, especially the doors/drawers over and around the cooktop. 4. If you enjoy using your kitchen, just hire a professional. Most cabinet jobs take the pros 5 days to do it right. It could take 3 weeks or more for a homeowner who has a job and other distractions. If you really want to DIY, call around and find a pro who can walk you through the tough spots. 5. Always use your own caulk. Never borrow your neighbor's.
You say that "This is the biggest mistake I see in DIY cabinet jobs and it's one of the most costly to fix. " Your comment caught my eyes, I have cabinets with a peeling top coat, and after I read online I assumed the usual suspects: not enough cleaning, no primer, or no sanding of the previous finish was done by the previous owner/their painter, but looking at my cabinet the top coat does seem soft. How do you suggest dealing with such a problem? My initial though is to bring everything back to the bare wood or is there a special trick that the pros use in such case?
@@paulchevalier5035 We run into cabinets painted with wall paint all the time, and this is what your issue sounds like. We'll take a random orbit sander with 100 grit on it and go over every surface thoroughly taking off anything that wants to come off easily. Once that's done, you can use a product from Ben Moore called Command. No need to prime except for using some oil primer in the bare wood spots that come off. Put on two full coats, preferably with a sprayer, but you can brush it on with a brown bristle Purdy (something fine and soft). Let them dry overnight and put them back together. I've been doing that for over 10 years and I offer a 10 year labor warranty on my interior work. I've never had more than a chip from a broken plate or some over rambunctious boys playing too rough around them.
@@dgoddard wow this is super helpful. Thank you very much for such a detailed answer! I know someone with truly professionally painted cabinets and that sounds more like what you describe here. Have a great day dear stranger of the Internet!
Can you tell me what is the best paint for kitchen cabinets? I have used some in the past (latex) that were supposed to be for cabinets (those brands were Porter and Behr) and they get really soft and gummy (and dirty looking) in the areas near the pulls where our hands get in contact with the cabinet. I'd like a good recommendation of exactly what to buy.
As a cabinet maker, and the finisher for myself and another high end shop, I salute you for fixing that crime against cabinetry 👍 your spray finish looks great for contending with what was existing there.
I am soooo glad you managed to do the mature thing and resist any of the potential 'caulk' jokes. I really liked the way you used your caulk, you seemed to have a good grip on your caulk, not too hard, not too loose, and your caulk was very, very smooth.
I am glad you mentioned marking the doors for where they go. This is so huge imo. Best way to mark them for refinishing in my opinion is to put your number/info under the hinges. Where it wont be seen anyways. This is really easy when doing doors that have euro hinges.
Hey Marc! I feel ya on the "Marc not Mark" issue. My grandson has the same problem. Look forward to your content, get completely settled in so we can see some more!
One thing I'm surprised you didn't mention: lots of people use painter's tape to ensure a clean bead. This is a process known as "caulk block." [I'll show myself out] Cheers, Marc!
I find that I can use a paint brush to knock down the texture left by a roller. This works well on cabinet frames since they are narrow and a single brush stroke can smooth the entire surface.
Nice job. I like these home improvement videos you do. You come at it from the woodworker's perspective. More demanding and knowledgeable than the DIYer approach.
Great video Marc. I really appreciate that you’ve matured and gotten past the low hanging fruit of caulk jokes. I couldn’t detect any innuendos or double entendres at all. Using your bare hand for a better feel was a great tip, and I find that easy to follow. To follow along better, I watched the entire video with my caulk out. Plus I’ve also matured!!
Unrelated, but not. I just want to take a moment and thank you for not succumbing to the "clickbait title" trend. You're good. You know you're good. So you don't need to trick people into watching your videos. You are a champion, and I really appreciate you.
You mentioned HVLP sprayers are as little as $100, the proceeded to use a top of the line $1600 HVLP. You should make a video on how much do you really need to spend on a HVLP setup? I know the high end multi stage ones are better for thick paints, but some of the cheap ones claim to work with all paints too. How much can you get away with thinning paint (or clear finish) and still get good results? I've been interested in picking up a HVLP sprayer, but im worried if i get one of the cheaper ones I'll regret it. But I'm not doing this professionally, so I don't want to waste money on an expensive sprayer if i don't need it.
We painted our kitchen and the first thing I did was wash the cabinet surfaces with TSP, the real stuff, not a TSP substitute. It made a huge difference.
I made custom oak, walnut stained, cabinet doors for our house before we sold it. They were beautiful. The people that bought the house from us loved them and it's what sealed the deal. They just sold that house and painted the cabinets white. :(
There are so many different bad paint jobs ... My kitchen cabinets are from the mid-20th century, and built like tanks. The original finish was factory-applied white paint, aged to a not very attractive cream. A previous owner slapped on a coat of cheap baby blue latex paint - I don't think they washed the cabinets first. When I decided to paint my cabinets a color I like, I washed them, and the paint began peeling off. So now I'm stuck removing all the blue paint. Sanding won't help, as I need to get down to the original paint, clean and sand that, then proceed. Any blue paint left might peel later, it *all* needs to be removed. I'll do my paint job right - good prep, a little more prep, and Ben Moore's Advance cabinet paint.
When painting them white I use spray cans of appliance epoxy. It’s bulletproof. Can’t scratch it easily, bonds very well to most surfaces and leaves a smooth look. Only downside, high gloss only
Incongruous. Kitchen finishes looked awfully nice to have such a butchered paint job. In our house, the previous owners tried to spruce up dark-stained oak-veneered cabinets with a belt sander and new stain. Paint made a huge difference. Also consider new hinges and pulls.
Thanks for the video. I am in the process of building replacement raise panel doors for my kitchen cabinets (circa 1965). Bulletproof painted wooden boxes will get new paint grade maple doors. I will be priming the panels before frame construction. I had questions on the best way to paint the doors, you have answered all my questions. Thank you
Marc, not to be too picky but that Q5 is not just a hundred bucks......for most thick paints, even with Flotrol, you would need every part of those 5 turbines to spray that stuff.
Came here to find this comment, or at the very best a link to a $100 Fuji Q5 Platinum! Maybe if you already have a solid pneumatic setup you could get a gun for $100? Really curious what the end mix ratio would need to be to force through latex paint….
If you have to thin your paint with water only use distilled water, city and well water contain, among other things, chlorine which can discolor the original color of the paint.
Nice job! I'm in the process of doing the same in my kitchen. I'm using BM Advanced paint, it levels out nicely and seems really tough. I am using a $79 HVLP (air compressor type), it is doing a good job. BTW, can you tell me where I can get a Fuji Q5 for $100? haha
Spot on! Very good video about fixing and sprucing up cabinets on a budget. Thank you for sharing, MarC 😁 Dunno who installed the cabinets back in the day, but man, it seems to have been a very lacking job...
This is an FYI for diy people about caulking...there's a thin membrane inside the nozzle area you have to pierce with a long skewer or needle...ur welcome...lol...first time I used one I put a lot of force in the handle thinking it was just a suction thing...the next thing I knew it was coming out the back end...messy lesson that hubby explained AFTER he was done laughing at my expense
Intro..thanks Marck. Now I fixed it. and you said duty...lol Intellectually I'm 12. Chronological age is 50... As always thank you for the inspiration.
Already moving again? Finishing (paint or otherwise) is sometimes a wood workers issue and IMO part of it all. Getting better at is always a good thing. Looking at a kitchen remodel in our 60's home soon and will be thinking about taking this task on. Not sure weather we want to build cabinets or maybe just buy some RTA non-finished and work that route. I will likely be making a vanity to replace a pedestal sink in our master bath (needs storage) and a cabinets in another bathroom to match what we pick out in the kitchen for flow. Finishing will likely be on me for most. Will likely invest in a decent set up for this job and will carry me a bit in the future.
So was it just one coat with the sprayer on the doors? Looks like you may have made a couple of passes (vertical/horizontal) and that was it? Turned out so much better than the roller!
Dude really embracing the Missouri. Using a stick to stir the paint 😂 How long did it take you to tune out the banjos playing in the background? Glad you’re here hope to run into you around town.
I painted my mom’s cabinets and followed all the instructions, did everything right according to this video, but now the doors won’t fit. The double hung cabinets are overlapping. I’m assuming I somehow made them expand but I see it’s not an issue in this video. Or the new hinges are a slightly different size. I’m not sure what to do because the hinges don’t adjust.
At her old job, my mom once tried a sample of that Tom of Maine natural toothpaste, and exclaimed "this stuff tastes like caulk!" Everyone just about peed themselves. True story.
if your trying to higher someone to paint your cabinets ask them what kind of paint do you use. if they don't say lacquer paint then they don't know what their doing .they don't sell this at home depot . you usally have to get it from a commercial paint store. most house painters don't know what paint to use . you can get a good finish some other products but 90 percent of cabinets companies use lacquer.
Curious why you didn't prime bare wood before adding final coat? My experience (I let my wife and her friend do the painting) was that the paint lifted off within two years, I am watching this as I need to redo my kitchen cabinets too. I have some funky molding which is always dirty and may opt to redo the door style completely. Different topic...
I painted our bare cabinets 12 years ago and I think it's time to spruce them up again by lightly sanding them and repainting them. I used just a brush the first time and the look is definitely different than a sprayed one. I installed a new pantry and sprayed that one and the finish and look doesn't match the rest of the kitchen. They are all builder grade Home Depot oak cabinets. I've done about all I can to strengthen them up as they are very poorly built using particle board and staples. If I rebuilt them with glue and butt joints they would be miles better than these.
I died during the caulking section. LOL I'm in the middle of painting my 70s golden oak cabinets, but I'm also replacing the doors, drawer fronts, trim & hardware to completely change the look. I'm lucky enough to be able to make my own replacement doors and trim. I'll brush and roll the frames (and sides) with a couple thinned down layers to reduce the texture and spray the new doors. I don't mind a *little* texture on the surface that is left by a roller, but you have to use the right paint and roller. I'd argue that I prefer that slight texture vs. trying to get a perfectly flat paint job., especially when upgrading existing cabinets.
shellac primer is the way to go in kitchens because it will bond over grease and any finish . general finishes milk paint for top coat if your going to roll it . otherwise use nitro . you need surf prep sandpaper with a .5 foam for doors. baby wipes cleans up caulk better than anything.
@woodwhisperer can you please tell me what is the name of your air compressor and is it good enough for using something other than paint? I'm making a list of necessary tools for my new business Dusty Wood Adventures
Regarding gaps, if you're dealing with anything less than maybe 1/16", Kilz primer is thick enough to fill all of that in if you lay it on heavy. Way easier than trying to caulk and smooth and then getting mad that it doesn't lay out right. Good thick coat of Kilz to start with, couple coats of your actual trim paint, should be good to go.
Personally I prefer painted cabinets for kitchens, they take up so much of the visual space in the room that unless you make them out of really high quality tight grained oak or similar, it is incredibly hard to get a nice, bright feel in the room while also feeling consistent. Painting covers a lot of sins without making the room feel cheap.
12:51, uh now I know you didn't mean you can get that Q5 Platinum for 100.00 bucks but it LOOKED like that is what you were saying. Probably should have followed that comment with something like "this Fuji however is A LOT more than and hundred bucks but there are some P.O.S. systems out there that you could probably get for that price". (if there are any, I really don't know). On another note, I did like the way you handled your caulk.
Painting company owner here... A few tips and critiques....
1. Always remove the doors/drawers and label them. It might seem obvious where they go, but believe me, it's not.
2. Make sure that your top coat is rated for cabinetry. Emerald is rated for wood, but not specifically cabinetry because the cured topcoat isn't hard enough. This is the biggest mistake I see in DIY cabinet jobs and it's one of the most costly to fix. If it's not rated for cabinetry, it will chip/peel in the most used areas.
3. Clean, clean, clean. Mild detergent and water. Scrub with a green pad, especially the doors/drawers over and around the cooktop.
4. If you enjoy using your kitchen, just hire a professional. Most cabinet jobs take the pros 5 days to do it right. It could take 3 weeks or more for a homeowner who has a job and other distractions. If you really want to DIY, call around and find a pro who can walk you through the tough spots.
5. Always use your own caulk. Never borrow your neighbor's.
You say that "This is the biggest mistake I see in DIY cabinet jobs and it's one of the most costly to fix. "
Your comment caught my eyes, I have cabinets with a peeling top coat, and after I read online I assumed the usual suspects: not enough cleaning, no primer, or no sanding of the previous finish was done by the previous owner/their painter, but looking at my cabinet the top coat does seem soft.
How do you suggest dealing with such a problem? My initial though is to bring everything back to the bare wood or is there a special trick that the pros use in such case?
@@paulchevalier5035 We run into cabinets painted with wall paint all the time, and this is what your issue sounds like. We'll take a random orbit sander with 100 grit on it and go over every surface thoroughly taking off anything that wants to come off easily.
Once that's done, you can use a product from Ben Moore called Command. No need to prime except for using some oil primer in the bare wood spots that come off. Put on two full coats, preferably with a sprayer, but you can brush it on with a brown bristle Purdy (something fine and soft).
Let them dry overnight and put them back together.
I've been doing that for over 10 years and I offer a 10 year labor warranty on my interior work. I've never had more than a chip from a broken plate or some over rambunctious boys playing too rough around them.
@@dgoddard wow this is super helpful. Thank you very much for such a detailed answer!
I know someone with truly professionally painted cabinets and that sounds more like what you describe here.
Have a great day dear stranger of the Internet!
@@paulchevalier5035 No problem, buddy.
Can you tell me what is the best paint for kitchen cabinets? I have used some in the past (latex) that were supposed to be for cabinets (those brands were Porter and Behr) and they get really soft and gummy (and dirty looking) in the areas near the pulls where our hands get in contact with the cabinet. I'd like a good recommendation of exactly what to buy.
As a cabinet maker, and the finisher for myself and another high end shop, I salute you for fixing that crime against cabinetry 👍 your spray finish looks great for contending with what was existing there.
I am soooo glad you managed to do the mature thing and resist any of the potential 'caulk' jokes. I really liked the way you used your caulk, you seemed to have a good grip on your caulk, not too hard, not too loose, and your caulk was very, very smooth.
😅🤣😂
I am glad you mentioned marking the doors for where they go. This is so huge imo. Best way to mark them for refinishing in my opinion is to put your number/info under the hinges. Where it wont be seen anyways. This is really easy when doing doors that have euro hinges.
Hey Marc! I feel ya on the "Marc not Mark" issue. My grandson has the same problem. Look forward to your content, get completely settled in so we can see some more!
One thing I'm surprised you didn't mention: lots of people use painter's tape to ensure a clean bead. This is a process known as "caulk block."
[I'll show myself out]
Cheers, Marc!
I find that I can use a paint brush to knock down the texture left by a roller. This works well on cabinet frames since they are narrow and a single brush stroke can smooth the entire surface.
Nice job. I like these home improvement videos you do. You come at it from the woodworker's perspective. More demanding and knowledgeable than the DIYer approach.
You knowing how to apply different finishes aided you well on this project. Nice job Marc
I can NOT believe you wasted a perfectly good twig to stir the paint! It's not like they grow on trees, ya know!
Great video Marc. I really appreciate that you’ve matured and gotten past the low hanging fruit of caulk jokes. I couldn’t detect any innuendos or double entendres at all. Using your bare hand for a better feel was a great tip, and I find that easy to follow. To follow along better, I watched the entire video with my caulk out. Plus I’ve also matured!!
Unrelated, but not. I just want to take a moment and thank you for not succumbing to the "clickbait title" trend. You're good. You know you're good. So you don't need to trick people into watching your videos. You are a champion, and I really appreciate you.
You mentioned HVLP sprayers are as little as $100, the proceeded to use a top of the line $1600 HVLP. You should make a video on how much do you really need to spend on a HVLP setup? I know the high end multi stage ones are better for thick paints, but some of the cheap ones claim to work with all paints too. How much can you get away with thinning paint (or clear finish) and still get good results? I've been interested in picking up a HVLP sprayer, but im worried if i get one of the cheaper ones I'll regret it. But I'm not doing this professionally, so I don't want to waste money on an expensive sprayer if i don't need it.
Good coverage on the face is always a must.
Teriffic White Caulk, love to see it
We painted our kitchen and the first thing I did was wash the cabinet surfaces with TSP, the real stuff, not a TSP substitute. It made a huge difference.
Mar(k)’s sense of humor in this one is fantastic 😂
I made custom oak, walnut stained, cabinet doors for our house before we sold it. They were beautiful. The people that bought the house from us loved them and it's what sealed the deal. They just sold that house and painted the cabinets white. :(
That's so sad I'm sorry
With all respect, a Fuji Spray Q5 PLATINUM - HVLP Paint Sprayer System at Home Depot is almost $1700. It’s on my wishlist.
That Sherwin Williams Emerald paint is awesome that is the only paint I use now for cabinets.
There are so many different bad paint jobs ...
My kitchen cabinets are from the mid-20th century, and built like tanks. The original finish was factory-applied white paint, aged to a not very attractive cream. A previous owner slapped on a coat of cheap baby blue latex paint - I don't think they washed the cabinets first.
When I decided to paint my cabinets a color I like, I washed them, and the paint began peeling off. So now I'm stuck removing all the blue paint. Sanding won't help, as I need to get down to the original paint, clean and sand that, then proceed. Any blue paint left might peel later, it *all* needs to be removed.
I'll do my paint job right - good prep, a little more prep, and Ben Moore's Advance cabinet paint.
When painting them white I use spray cans of appliance epoxy. It’s bulletproof. Can’t scratch it easily, bonds very well to most surfaces and leaves a smooth look. Only downside, high gloss only
Incongruous. Kitchen finishes looked awfully nice to have such a butchered paint job. In our house, the previous owners tried to spruce up dark-stained oak-veneered cabinets with a belt sander and new stain. Paint made a huge difference. Also consider new hinges and pulls.
Thanks for the video. I am in the process of building replacement raise panel doors for my kitchen cabinets (circa 1965). Bulletproof painted wooden boxes will get new paint grade maple doors. I will be priming the panels before frame construction. I had questions on the best way to paint the doors, you have answered all my questions. Thank you
The caulk reminded me of the ol' snl skit about soaking corks. Lol great video as always.
What Mark said but too add too it. If a job is once begun, never leave it till it's done. Be the labor greater small do it well or not at all.
Marc, not to be too picky but that Q5 is not just a hundred bucks......for most thick paints, even with Flotrol, you would need every part of those 5 turbines to spray that stuff.
Came here to find this comment, or at the very best a link to a $100 Fuji Q5 Platinum! Maybe if you already have a solid pneumatic setup you could get a gun for $100? Really curious what the end mix ratio would need to be to force through latex paint….
If you have to thin your paint with water only use distilled water, city and well water contain, among other things, chlorine which can discolor the original color of the paint.
Nice job! I'm in the process of doing the same in my kitchen. I'm using BM Advanced paint, it levels out nicely and seems really tough. I am using a $79 HVLP (air compressor type), it is doing a good job. BTW, can you tell me where I can get a Fuji Q5 for $100? haha
Spot on! Very good video about fixing and sprucing up cabinets on a budget. Thank you for sharing, MarC 😁
Dunno who installed the cabinets back in the day, but man, it seems to have been a very lacking job...
I’ve had clients want quick and dirty, I am incapable of doing it. I always think when I leave the job site my name is on it so I refuse the work.
Fantastic work, Marc! Nicely done! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
When you were painting you sounded like Bob Ross. Fantastic!
Insert your pro paint advice here. Also good to see after all these years you've finally grown up! 👍
This is an FYI for diy people about caulking...there's a thin membrane inside the nozzle area you have to pierce with a long skewer or needle...ur welcome...lol...first time I used one I put a lot of force in the handle thinking it was just a suction thing...the next thing I knew it was coming out the back end...messy lesson that hubby explained AFTER he was done laughing at my expense
Haven’t heard missed spots called holidays since I was in the Navy.
Intro..thanks Marck. Now I fixed it.
and you said duty...lol
Intellectually I'm 12.
Chronological age is 50...
As always thank you for the inspiration.
Gotta get me one of those custom stir sticks 😂
They are so common, it’s almost like they grow on trees or something… 😁
Easy links to some of the products in the video: Rockler HVLP Turbine - swww.rockler.com/rockler-hvlpfinishing-sprayer?sid=AFN86
Earlex 5700 Sprayer - amzn.to/3D8pVid
Fuji Semi Pro - amzn.to/46qPCHT
Festool ETS 150 Random Orbit Sander - amzn.to/450izsF
Blue Shop Towels - amzn.to/3Y7Tvho
Caulking Gun - amzn.to/4515kbd
Sherwin Williams Caulk - amzn.to/475ssHo
Purdy Paint Brushes - amzn.to/3rMLm61
Floetrol - amzn.to/44HPRNs
Rocker Bench Cookies - www.rockler.com/rockler-bench-cookie-plus-work-gripper-single?sid=AFN86
Marc's Respirator - amzn.to/3Yd2n5s
Respirator Filters - amzn.to/3YdpAnR
It's hilarious that no matter how old we guys get, we still enjoy silly caulk jokes. LOL
Cheers to the Caulkmaster
Love Emerald Urethane. Great choice.
Already moving again? Finishing (paint or otherwise) is sometimes a wood workers issue and IMO part of it all. Getting better at is always a good thing. Looking at a kitchen remodel in our 60's home soon and will be thinking about taking this task on. Not sure weather we want to build cabinets or maybe just buy some RTA non-finished and work that route. I will likely be making a vanity to replace a pedestal sink in our master bath (needs storage) and a cabinets in another bathroom to match what we pick out in the kitchen for flow. Finishing will likely be on me for most. Will likely invest in a decent set up for this job and will carry me a bit in the future.
What a huge difference.love ya work
So was it just one coat with the sprayer on the doors? Looks like you may have made a couple of passes (vertical/horizontal) and that was it? Turned out so much better than the roller!
I feel validated after you used the stick to stir the paint 😂
Beautiful job!❤
I was with you right up to the stick. HVLP red-kneckery.
Very useful information. Thank you.
New sub . Thanks Marc.I respect your maturity 😂😂😂
Caulk and paint make a carpenter what they ain't.
Dude really embracing the Missouri. Using a stick to stir the paint 😂 How long did it take you to tune out the banjos playing in the background? Glad you’re here hope to run into you around town.
I’m glad he matured over the years and doesn’t do any caulk jokes 🤣🤣
I painted my mom’s cabinets and followed all the instructions, did everything right according to this video, but now the doors won’t fit. The double hung cabinets are overlapping. I’m assuming I somehow made them expand but I see it’s not an issue in this video. Or the new hinges are a slightly different size. I’m not sure what to do because the hinges don’t adjust.
At her old job, my mom once tried a sample of that Tom of Maine natural toothpaste, and exclaimed "this stuff tastes like caulk!" Everyone just about peed themselves. True story.
I almost made it through the video without laughing but agree that you shouldn’t be afraid to use your hands when dealing with caulk
if your trying to higher someone to paint your cabinets ask them what kind of paint do you use. if they don't say lacquer paint then they don't know what their doing .they don't sell this at home depot . you usally have to get it from a commercial paint store. most house painters don't know what paint to use . you can get a good finish some other products but 90 percent
of cabinets companies use lacquer.
Curious why you didn't prime bare wood before adding final coat? My experience (I let my wife and her friend do the painting) was that the paint lifted off within two years, I am watching this as I need to redo my kitchen cabinets too. I have some funky molding which is always dirty and may opt to redo the door style completely. Different topic...
I painted our bare cabinets 12 years ago and I think it's time to spruce them up again by lightly sanding them and repainting them. I used just a brush the first time and the look is definitely different than a sprayed one. I installed a new pantry and sprayed that one and the finish and look doesn't match the rest of the kitchen. They are all builder grade Home Depot oak cabinets. I've done about all I can to strengthen them up as they are very poorly built using particle board and staples. If I rebuilt them with glue and butt joints they would be miles better than these.
Marks losing his passion for craft! He’s starting to do things I’d do!!! 😂 Nice stir stick!
Love it!
You handle your caulk like a pro
You should have…. Nevermind. They turned out great.
I died during the caulking section. LOL
I'm in the middle of painting my 70s golden oak cabinets, but I'm also replacing the doors, drawer fronts, trim & hardware to completely change the look. I'm lucky enough to be able to make my own replacement doors and trim. I'll brush and roll the frames (and sides) with a couple thinned down layers to reduce the texture and spray the new doors. I don't mind a *little* texture on the surface that is left by a roller, but you have to use the right paint and roller. I'd argue that I prefer that slight texture vs. trying to get a perfectly flat paint job., especially when upgrading existing cabinets.
shellac primer is the way to go in kitchens because it will bond over grease and any finish . general finishes milk paint for top coat if your going to roll it . otherwise use nitro . you need surf prep sandpaper with a .5 foam for doors. baby wipes cleans up caulk better than anything.
Darn it, I was going to buy a T-shirt from you but wanted it in black black black and a bit of white, guessing I better keep looking 😢
Next time: our intrepid host paints a unique textured finish using only a thick nap roller.
@woodwhisperer can you please tell me what is the name of your air compressor and is it good enough for using something other than paint? I'm making a list of necessary tools for my new business Dusty Wood Adventures
First you pull out your caulk, and later you twirl the twig...jeeze man, surprised you get any work done.
I couldn’t find that 5 stage sprayer for $100
Is there a link for that
That's a really nice kitchen not to take the doors off when painting those cabinets.
I’m not a fan of painting but sometimes it’s the right choice.
Even Frenchy here heard all the puns about the caulk, the word I would never try to pronounce...
Marc always talking about his caulk
Regarding gaps, if you're dealing with anything less than maybe 1/16", Kilz primer is thick enough to fill all of that in if you lay it on heavy. Way easier than trying to caulk and smooth and then getting mad that it doesn't lay out right. Good thick coat of Kilz to start with, couple coats of your actual trim paint, should be good to go.
Bahaha...goobers and doodees...someone has kids me thinks...thanks for keeping it kid friendly! Nice explanation
It also helps if you wet your finger a bit before smoothing...I've picked up a cheap tool since then that leaves a cleaner line
13:24 Isn’t that SpongeBob’s method for blowing bubbles?!
What grit and material of sandpaper?
I pain the wrong color on my kitchen cabinets, can I paint over a new color, or I have to sand it againg???
What brand of stick are you using?
Time for a painted furniture build... >_>
And in today's episode of "Why My Girlfriend Loves Woodworking"... 7:41
Moving again?
I'm wearing the same shirt right now.
I Always use bare hands when applying my caulk
How much you charge to repaint kitchen cabinets?
3:40 I could go for a heavy nap, I dunno about you.
Personally I prefer painted cabinets for kitchens, they take up so much of the visual space in the room that unless you make them out of really high quality tight grained oak or similar, it is incredibly hard to get a nice, bright feel in the room while also feeling consistent. Painting covers a lot of sins without making the room feel cheap.
6:59 lol
Where can I find a fuji q5 for $100??!?!
Wait wait wait are you moving AGAIN? Did I miss that detail in the video? lol
You’re selling the house you just bought in MO? Did I miss something?
Not his house, said it was a favor.
12:51, uh now I know you didn't mean you can get that Q5 Platinum for 100.00 bucks but it LOOKED like that is what you were saying. Probably should have followed that comment with something like "this Fuji however is A LOT more than and hundred bucks but there are some P.O.S. systems out there that you could probably get for that price". (if there are any, I really don't know). On another note, I did like the way you handled your caulk.
13:56, too funny.
Wait are you moving already??
Caulk jokes!
That's what she said, that's what she said, that's what she said .... 😅
My brother is Marc. Roc on
Don’t be afraid to use your bare hands with your caulk? Is there any other way?
Marc's caulk got me pregnant.