Awesome video! Unsolicited gear tip: When placing cams, try to place them in the direction of pull (i.e. sticking downwards of of the wall). Sometimes you are inserting them perpendicular to the rock face (i.e. sticking straight out from the wall); When placed like this, in the event of a fall, the gear will rotate which may result in a worse placement than you were expecting since you are plugging the gear in a different position than when it will be when you fully weight it, and thus there is a higher chance it will pop. Your 0.5 (purple) placement at the beginning was a good example of a great placement! But the black totem near the end wasn't (due to the angle). Stay safe out there!
100% Agree. Sometimes the cracks are so flared that you can only really find a "secure" placement by placing it perpendicular, as the outside lobes wouldn't contact the crack placed in the direction of pull due to the flare. Lumpy is pretty notorious for its flare. I do find myself just jamming in cams more perpendicular when I'm gripped, I'll admit. Thanks for the tip though!
I appreciate it! It definitely ebbs and flows. Sometimes I feel really mentally strong, other times I feel like my mental game is holding me back. My head-game in climbing is certainly the strongest when I'm consistently climbing 4-5 days a week, especially on gear.
@@bradfordLburns Why is that mine is the same way. If I dont climb for a month takes me like a week of climbing to get it back so odd especially on gear.
100% I watched this video with Tom Randal/Pete Whittaker and I remember them saying the same thing, which is really suprising to me. Pros climbing at that level and scarier stuff that I will ever climb also struggle with that mental side of things after taking a hiatus.@@entreadapt
Awesome video!
Unsolicited gear tip: When placing cams, try to place them in the direction of pull (i.e. sticking downwards of of the wall). Sometimes you are inserting them perpendicular to the rock face (i.e. sticking straight out from the wall); When placed like this, in the event of a fall, the gear will rotate which may result in a worse placement than you were expecting since you are plugging the gear in a different position than when it will be when you fully weight it, and thus there is a higher chance it will pop. Your 0.5 (purple) placement at the beginning was a good example of a great placement! But the black totem near the end wasn't (due to the angle). Stay safe out there!
100% Agree. Sometimes the cracks are so flared that you can only really find a "secure" placement by placing it perpendicular, as the outside lobes wouldn't contact the crack placed in the direction of pull due to the flare. Lumpy is pretty notorious for its flare.
I do find myself just jamming in cams more perpendicular when I'm gripped, I'll admit. Thanks for the tip though!
your head game is top notch....seriously
I appreciate it! It definitely ebbs and flows. Sometimes I feel really mentally strong, other times I feel like my mental game is holding me back. My head-game in climbing is certainly the strongest when I'm consistently climbing 4-5 days a week, especially on gear.
@@bradfordLburns Why is that mine is the same way. If I dont climb for a month takes me like a week of climbing to get it back so odd especially on gear.
100% I watched this video with Tom Randal/Pete Whittaker and I remember them saying the same thing, which is really suprising to me. Pros climbing at that level and scarier stuff that I will ever climb also struggle with that mental side of things after taking a hiatus.@@entreadapt
Great climb, and video. Looked brutal at the top. Impressive composure setting those small nuts.
Thanks!
Some thin, exciting gear there
Oh yeah. Gotta love some microcams and micronuts
Fantastic route
Oh yeah, It's a classic for shhhooreee
That looked insecure! Well done!
Thank you! Trying to learn to trust my feet on climbs like this.