Does a Mechanical Radiator Fan Kill Horse Power? - DYNO TEST | 1995 Ford F150
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- In this video, I finally put the myth to rest as to whether a clutch style/mechanical radiator fan sucks power from your engine! Enjoy!
#obsford #fordf150 #diy
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0:00 Intro
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The project is my 1995 Ford F150 XL 2wd 8 foot bed.
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I'll keep my clutch fan for now. My stock cooling system has been bulletproof in the hottest midwest summers and heaviest of traffic. I sure hate to mess with that over 4 hp. Especially since when it comes to overheating, it only takes it to happen once to kill your engine.
I agree with you 100%. I feel like electric fans aren’t full proof.
I just had to cut my timing cover off and replace my water pump. Now I am faced with either to replace the clutch,fan blades and see if that causes the water pump to fail all the time.
Or switch to electric fans and happen to get defective fans that burn out and melt my engine.
I am leaning towards keeping it stock because the first clutch/fan setup and 2 water pumps kept it cool for the first 30 years. If i just put a nice clean new one it should do the same for another 30. (in theory)
A 408 Windsor is the best way that i have seen to add HP to any Ford truck. :)
U are 💯% correct!! Arizonan here. My fan clutch keeps my engine cool when sitting in traffic in 115°F heat.
@@Juan67_Az I’m from Arizona too and I’m thinking on do electric fans upgrade, but I’m not sure not, I would mess around with my clutch fan just to add 2-4HP extra, my clutch fan is been doing really great during the last few years when it gets 115-120 degrees..
@Santiago Davila I wouldn't change my clutch fan for electric fans, plus I don't think my alternator could handle it.
For my 95 F250 HD 4x4 supercab (7.5L/460 big block) rated to tow 9000 lbs, I tried an electric dual fan /eliminate the stock fan & clutch. While I don't doubt the HP gains, the BAD result was an overheating engine during extended climbing towing an 8000 lb 5th wheel camper trailer. Aftermarket Electric fans are not a good modification for vehicles used for towing unless tested for the tow rating of the vehicle. For my 95 F50, I reinstalled the stock fan/clutch and no issues after that.
I’ve heard similar stories. Electric fans seem like they are more prone to failure than mechanical fans.
And you wonder why all the big rig 18 wheeler diesels are running mechanical fans
The electric fans typically do free up about 3 to 4 hp water pumps free up about 5 hp typically but the alternator actually uses more horsepower than any of the other accessory‘s especially under a load such as air-conditioning radio lights and other accessories
This is very true. I guess the real test would be what the alternator load would be.
The clutch fan is a parasitic load all the time though, hot or cold, an electric fan will only increase alternator drag while it's running. I'd be willing to bet this mod would decrease fuel consumption by 5%-10% as well. (0.5mpg - 2mpg)
@@Zt3v3 Not true. A clutch fan has a variable load factor, so when the radiator is cooler the clutch loosens up and will draw at say 20% effectiveness. When the radiator is hot, the clutch engages and the clutch will draw more power and turn the fan at around 80% effectiveness. And all ranges in between. That's the whole purpose of the clutch, to save horsepower when the fan is not needed as much.
Would you recommend getting an alternator with a more ampage?
@@anthonypipia6990higher amp alt is always a good investment. One of these days I hope one pops up for my truck or maybe I need to modify an OEM one.
Just pulled the clutch fan off the 305 in my k1500 and installed manually controlled electric fans...they really only need to be on if it sits and idles, stays at correct temp when driving without them being on...it made a noticeable difference in drivability. There's a long uphill stretch on my way to work that I had to downshift to 4th to climb without a severe drop in speed. Now that the parasitic loss from the fan is eliminated, I can maintain 70mph in 5th all the way. No idea how much actual power I have reclaimed, but it is a noticeable amount...looking forward to seeing how much the mileage has improved.
That’s good to know man! Thanks for sharing!🤙 Those mechanical fans definitely feel like boat anchors.
Engine Master ep. 20 The stock style fan killed 14HP. This # was at the crank. Good to know that there is still a noticeable gain by the time the rubber hits the road. I bet the MPG gain is also worth the time too.
Skitter302 Yeah I watched that episode too! Love that show! I still wanted to test it anyway especially since I’m getting at the wheel numbers. I’m definitely going to do the conversion and see what the mpg gain is.
I know I'm late to this comment, but I think you're seeing the impact of RPM there more than crank vs road. Look up fan affinity laws and I think you'll see these two tests agree from an order of magnitude perspective.
Yes it all depends on engine rpm. In this video the truck stayed under 5krpm sooo 4hp makes since. The engine masters revved engines to about 6k+ rpm.
One thing to keep in mind is that out on the road as the vehicle picks up speed air will naturally flow through the radiator reducing drag from the fan. So the benefit from an electric fan may not be as great as you think just based on a static dyno test.
Bok Choy That’s a good point. I think the most benefit would be seen around town/city driving.
The main part of this is reducing rotational weight.
@@JSAFIXIT what does a clutch or electric fan do??
@@tikihutdweller5944 An electric fan has no physical connection to the engine. A clutch fan is more of a viscous coupler, it never fully disconnects.
That's exactly why the electric fan is a benefit. It shuts off completely when there's adequate airflow to satisfy the temperature switch. Even with good airflow, the clutch setup will still be a drain on power.
My stock 97 3500 12v 250k on stock radiator separated- now 3row aluminum w/electric fan & painless wire relay since my friend stripped my fan bolt try to help. Great video ! My truck can use any xtra hp .
Very nice!
Thanks Joseph!🤙 I appreciate it!
For a real test, install the electric fan and see if the increased work from the alternator off sets the gains. Electric is not free energy magic!
This is true. It could even out once the alternator is under increased load from the electric fans.
@@TheMinuteMasters It would offset some of the gains. I guess the hope is that the electric fan is off most of the time.
@@qazwsxzwharp Yeah I think while the engine is cooler, the fan remains off and there’s less drag.
@@TheMinuteMasters That is what happens. Generally the fan is only needed when sitting idle or in stop and go traffic. When cruising natural airflow is sufficient.
except the fan isn't running when it doesn't have to be, making a proper solution more efficient for actually driving.
If running electrics it's a pain to wire up two but you have one as a backup if one quits.
This is true.
Nice video have a 1996 F150 4.9 thinking of trying some electric fans get a little more power and mpg
Thanks man!🤙 as you can see in this video Electric fans do show promise.
@@TheMinuteMasters Just bought some chinese electric ebay fan kit and trying to figure out how to wire it all 😆
If that clutch fan is slipping , engine not running over 190'
you will have less Horsepower loss with the OEM clutch fan,
However , when the viscus engages and drives the fan ,
your loss will climb higher , maybe 20-30 HP
This is true. More than likely during this test, my truck wasn’t hot enough for the fan clutch to engage. So I’m sure HP lose can get worse.
I never thought of it until power nation and wanted to see more examples. My vehicle comes standard with both types of fans fitted, once the manufacturer warranty expires I think I will take a look at this
Right! It’s definitely one of those things you don’t think of because you’re usually thinking of some of the other accessories and how they reduce power.
Was your electric fan on when you did this test? What about the parasitic loss due to having to put out the electricity needed to power the fan?
I didn’t install an electric fan. I wanted to do the test without it just to show what the maximum gains would be. Now if you factored in the parasitic loss of the electrical load, electric fans probably aren’t worth the upgrade.
you really only need to run the fans if you are sitting still, I've just done the conversion on a pickup for the second time and as long as you are moving (and have a decent rad), it flows enough air across the rad that the fans don't need to run.
60 amps is about 1.5 hp. well documented.
Elec fans suck about 25 amps.
Can your alternator stand that ??
Did you install an electric fan replacing the clutch fan and had them run at max before doing the no-fan-clutch test to consider the power loss from the alternator? From the looks of it, and correct me if I'm wrong, it feels like the test ran without an engine fan at all. I'm asking this to know the actual real life difference. I'm an electric fan advocate, BTW. The other day I replaced my W124's engine fan with one, a project I've been dreaming about for years. Regardless to HP, cooling is now better in our climate that could reach 50C in good day. I did notice a slight difference in performance, tho, perhaps due to the reliance of the electric fans; e.g. they first run at low speed, not directly at high speed like clutch fans. My cooling fans setup has two speed.
I only deleted the mechanical fan for the test. I’ve had commenters suggest that the gains would be negligible once you install an electric fan that increases the load on an alternator.
@@TheMinuteMasters
Well, I can at least confirm that in my car the load is much less now. MPG improved a lot. The other day I reached 24.4 MPG and 23.5 MPG twice before that which I could never achieve in all my 12 years of ownership under the same driving conditions. Just can't say much about the performance because my car is old and couldn't do or find good ways to do accurate tests. I don't think human bodies can detect the performance difference gain by little HP.
No doubt! Going with a crown Vic fan here
OBS Ford Racing You and me both! Definitely going to be my next mod. I’m just undecided as to what thermostat controller to use.
I'm currently dealing with this on sunny days. If I idle for a while on a hot day, and then start driving, the fan restricts the power as I'm accelerating up to speed. I want to know if this is a problem that can be fix without going electric fan?
And I mean it when I say IT STRUGGLES TO CATCH UP TO SPEED!
After a few seconds and everyone else passing us, it finally feels like the power is back... BUTT as soon as I'm idling at the light... the struggle begins again... Please answer ASAP getting paid this Friday and there aren't much videos of this topic
Yup! I’ve had that before when the AC is running. I don’t notice it as much with the AC off. Other than increasing horsepower or going electric fan, there are not options. They make fixed light weight fans but you run the risk of it not cooling enough.
As for passing people, what size tires do you run and what is your rear differential gearing?
They make faster louder severe duty clutch fans that can add extra hp to your vehicle. Computer operated Electric fans arent as reliable or accurate. Manual thermostat sensor fans are the way to go if using anything electric imo. I was using a 12v outlet fan in my 2005 f150 that would cause power gains when i turned up the power to the fan.
Went to a single electric fan on my SBC. Began to overheat to 235 degrees. Went to a electric fan with shroud. Same with a slight melt of one of my poly motor mounts. Granted it was on a C3 corvette(minimal air to front and fans pointed to the ground).
Could never trust a clutch mechanical fan as you really dont want it to stop engaging in 100 degree heat.
Went back to a stock 6 blade fixed mechanical fan with a 1977 C3 stock electric fan and shroud. I don't care about a loss of a few ponies. Never gets past 200 in the summer and there is something to say about air blowing over the exterior of the engine.
Yeah I don’t buy into the electric fan mod. I’m sure it can work but I just hear stories of them failing.
You got to get good electric fans that blow a lot of air and maybe daul fans will help better
If you put a plastic fan blades on it would be less thats what i do as i hate electric fans as they don't move as much air as a good big plastic 9 blade... PS the LS engines have a great plastic fan they work great even on my V6 GMC Sonoma. Perhaps try that on the Dyno?
I’ll keep a plastic fan in mind!
Every little bit helps!
Rick Knight It sure does! Especially when it helps throughout the rpm range!
Hello I am from Argentina!
Did you remove the mechanical fan and replace it with an electric one? Or just removed the mechanical fan? Thank you!
JUAN DIAZ Awesome man!🤙 Glad to have you as a viewer!
I only removed the mechanical fan. From what I’ve seen and theorized, that should produce the same results as installing an electric fan.
@@TheMinuteMasters Thanks for the quick reply!
JUAN DIAZ No problem!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Actually, the addition of an electrical fan( or fans) when running will reintroduce parasitic loss via the alternator. It's still a net benefit to go electric :)
usmckozmo Good to know! I figured the extra alternator drag was minimal.
For me just to have a quieter engine bay would be worth it, the clutch fan is so obnoxiously loud on revs.
This is true, the clutch fans are obnoxiously loud! Lol
Operating correctly fan clutches engage above @ 200* and unlock above @ 2500 rpm at any temperature.
The rest of the time theyre "freewheeling". Most noticably slow below engine rpm after a few seconds.
If yours doesnt, maybe yours needs replacing.
@@hotrodray6802 This is true. But despite the freewheeling, people think they rob power from the engine.
They are only loud when engaged. Most of the time the clutch is not engaged and is relatively quiet.
Dont overlook the fact that dynos are not moving.
Fans are sucking vigorously through the radiator.
Air ramming through the radiator at 25-100 mph reduces the parasitic drag to almost nothing.
THINK ABOUT IT
You definitely make sense. I wonder why electric fans have become a horsepower mod then.
My minicab has like 36hp and 36lbs... 5hp is would make a big difference and this video only pushes me harder to buy electric fans.
That would make a huge difference!
I would rather lose a few horsepower and have an engine never run hot or replace a Chinese relay
I’m with ya!
So I don’t know how you got that fan clutch of but on my 4.9l in-line 6 we had to send it to the mechanic. We tried for three days with a normal kit to take it off and the pneumatic hammer. The bolt on the fan clutch
Chase Evans So you couldn’t even get it off the engine or you couldn’t separate the fan from the clutch? When bolts get tough for me I soak them in penetrating oil and then I use a torch to heat them up.
We couldn’t get it off of the water pump.
@@chaseevans6214 Damn! That is bad! I would have definitely taken my torch to that!
So I have a map gas torch and a acetylene Torbo torch and still that has been the only part that I’ve had to take to the mechanic. Now I have a new vw Jetta tdi that I play around with. It stock has about 100 hp and 150lb/tq my new .216 injectors and my chip now get 174 hp and 225lb/tq. Now all I have to do is remove the egr and my massive dpf which looks like a torpedo
Chase Evans I use a map gas too. Still crazy to think you had to take it in. I guess I’m one of the lucky ones.
That’s sweet! That’s some good gains for very little modification!
Do this using a 3lb fan clutch thats heavy/severe duty and a plastic fan with 11 blades which weighs 3.3Lb.
I bet you dont get much of a HP drop!
Those metal fans are horrendously heavy and standard duty fan Clutches are only 60% speed of the pump. A heavy duty Clutch goes 75-80% of the water pump, a severe duty Clutch goes up to 93% of the water pump speed.
The lower % spin speed of the fan to water pump rotation = more drag/resistance.
The heavier the fan blade + clutch is = more drag/resistance.
My setup is only 6.6lbs with a very strong pull
That’s a cool set up! I’ve never bothered to play with the weight of the fan or the clutch.
@@TheMinuteMasters try it out. If I get another Anemometer I'll test CFM
Have you been able to find which radiator and electric fan to use?
Ineed Kicks So from what I’ve seen just reading forums and Facebook comments, the Lincoln Mark VII or a Ford Taurus fans seem to be the best junkyard/oem fan. They last longer than aftermarket fans. I haven’t seen anyone upgrade or change out the radiator though.
The Minute Masters would those fans work with a 93 f150 5.0?
Ineed Kicks I’m not sure but everyone seems to recommend them. You can check the fitment by measuring how much space you have in between from the radiator to the water pump pulley. If the fan is thinner, it should fit. Based on what I’ve heard, they probably do fit just fine. All you would need other than the fan is a relay and thermostat controller.
But did you install an electric fan before running the comparison dyno test? The video doesn't say. But there's no free energy, whatever energy it takes to turn the fan remains the same whether it is mechanical or electric. Potentially the electric fan may be more efficient at moving air, but since you have to turn mechanical energy into electrical energy in the alternator, then turn that electrical energy back into mechanical energy at the fan motor, there will be an energy loss due to inefficiency in each of those processes; so the electrical fan would have to first overcome those losses and then be even more efficient than the mechanical fan to save any energy and free up any horsepower. Otherwise all you're doing is changing the load from the water pump pulley to the alternator. At best what may be occurring is the electric fan is not moving as much air, thus requiring less energy; and it only loads the electric system down when the fan is needed rather than adding a load 100% of the time the engine is running. But, energy is energy, if you're going to move air it's still going to take power to do it.
You make good points. I never tested an electric fan before I ran this test. However, I doubt I got my truck hot enough to really engage the mechanical clutch for the fan. So 3 HP through the entries curve is just from the fan being attached to the engine. I have a hard time believing magnets inside of an alternator would great an equal amount of drag. But, I never tested that theory. So it remains to be seen.
THANKS! CAN U DO ELECTRIC WATER PUMP VS PULLEY PUMP?
No promises, but I’ll save that for a future video idea.
How much power does the mechanical fan draw with a 60 mph breeze flowing at it?
Good question. These mechanical fans should engage if you are flowing air through the radiator. That air flow should be enough to keep things cool. But I guess that depends on weather and driving conditions. I’m going to say the draw is the same.
@@TheMinuteMasters I had installed an electric fan on a 75 hp Jeep and saw no measurable improvement in highway mpg or power up the hills. Today I installed the steel fan, set idle to 2000 rpm then turned on the electric to simulate movement. RPM increased by about 100, vacuum went up about .1".
@@peashooterc9475 So, definitely some horsepower usage but nothing significant.
How the hell did your truck hit 121? My truck tops out at 75 downhill.
Did I say that? My speedometer only goes to 85 and o think I’ve hit what I guessed to be 90-95.
The Dyno showed 121 at peak.
@@noahmiller6115 I’ll have to go back and look.
Mine failed and was sucking the life out of my truck and the gas. I gained back my spec mpg once replaced
Crazy right! I often wonder how many people drive around with bad van clutches and just think their vehicle is a gas guzzler.
The wheel power gain versus crank gain is wrong if you run a 210hp engine on a chassis Dyno in 1:1 drive and net 180hp at the wheel u are losing 30hp thru the drivetrain if u add power say 20 more HP at the wheel then 20is all that’s added at the crank unless somehow u done added more friction or inertia weight between the flywheel-wheels that’s costing you more power each time u add some this has been proven by Richard on a engine and chassis Dyno
Ah I see what you mean. That's my mistake. I mixed the numbers up.
If your motor actually made any power at all, it would have been up around 5,800rpm where the power robbing aspects of that fan would truly shine. They rob around 20hp total, and if it is a direct fit flex fan, EVEN MORE!
This is true. But even on the low end you lose a few horses. So, it’s definitely a good modification.
@@TheMinuteMasters Engine Masters did an engine dyno with multiple fans on a 350. The plastic flex fan killed 24hp. The clutch fan took 20hp. The steel fixed fan took like 30hp. Regardless, fans kill power.
@@landrypoole I watched that episode too. Excellent content and definitely true.
I can’t remember if I did this test before or after engine masters produced that video.
@@TheMinuteMasters I’m about to do my own today. Test before and then after. Today is the before.
@@landrypoole Nice! Same year and truck? Or something different?
A fan is designed to move air. Air creates drag. Drag creation plus a clutch = loss of horse power. Simple.
You are exactly right!🤙
K&N and performance muffler will give you that back and then some ..
I tested the K&N drop in filter and that would get you the same gains as a electric fan swap.
My pickup has both mechanical and electrical fans. Not sure why both
Newer vehicle (newer than my truck lol) have that set up.
So I wonder how many mpg this saves
Not sure. Worth a test though.
Yes you can remove your clutch fan. Remove some weight off the belt system but you could damage the water pump. It's designed to work with that clutch fan and overtime you could wear out the pump faster as that extra weight it's supposed to handle isn't their anymore. If you're worried about gaining such a miniscule amount of HP and Torque at the wheels. Go right ahead and do it. I'll be laughing as I drive past your disabled truck because your water pump seized on you. Replacing a clutch fan for an electric fan could save a few pounds but that means wiring up that e-fan. Depending on your year model. It may or may not have the ability to control or throttle that e-fan. If it can't control that fan then it'll be on all the time. Leading to premature failure of that e-fan.
See about freeing up some extra weight by replacing the metal blades with plastic blades. But don't replace that mechanical fan off your older vehicle. All your asking is for your engine to run hotter as it serves to draw air into the engine bay and through the radiator. Some vehicles like my old 04 WJ has both electric fan and a mechanical fan. Though someone did that mechanical fan delete. It was set up for electric fan with a 3 plug wire. So didn't have to worry about that. Older vehicles may not have that option. Always check your vehicle to see if it's set up with e-fans as well as m-fans before deleting that m-fan for minimal hp/t gains.
All good points man! Thanks for watching!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters I catch your videos now and then. It's good to see what works and what doesn't. What is worth the effort or isn't. If your vehicle doesn't come with an e-fan and only a m-fan. I wouldn't mess with it. If it comes with both then maybe beef up the e-fan if you're removing the m-fan.
@@SnakewithaGun Thanks for watching man!🤙
Very true! If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.👌
Of course the fan takes power to run but what are you going to do, just not cool your engine? That electric fan will have a parasitic drag on your alternator, I came here hoping for a comparison of the two ways to power your fan.
Well let’s look at the whole picture. Removing the radiator fan freed up 3 hp across the entire power band. Cool but to your point, the engine still needs to be cooled.
Increase electrical draw does add more resistance at the alternator pulley. We aren’t sure what that value would be but for arguments sake, I’ll say it’s -1.5 hp.
With that assumption, an electric fan will net +1.5 HP. So, is the electric fan swap worth it? You can do the swap economically for less than $100 or closer to $500 using kits or buying everything new.
At the end of the day, $100 for 1.5 hp isn’t worth it.
Its mechanical physics thinking that removing the mechanical fan free's up hp. Think about it, your motor has to push and spin that fan while its running, same as the flywheel. When you remove that fan, that extra weight is gone so now as the pistons are going on their down stroke to make the power, that fan is not there to give it resistance. Now they can push down with more force.
Same as the flywheel, when you have a 20 lb flywheel and swap it for a 10 lb flywheel, now the pistons have 10 lbs less of resistance which means more downforce which means more hp output..
Now how some guys have claimed 15 hp gain from clutch fan removal beats me, maybe the clucth has gone bad putting more resistance on the motor ??
I can tell you that removing the clutch fan did help the engine rev faster and i got more power, as well as the lightened flywheel.
You are exactly right! It's pure physics. I mostly did this to see how much power was freed up by removing the fan. Furthermore, was the power freed up worth the extra cost of installing electric radiator fans.
Anyhow, thanks for watch!🤙
@@TheMinuteMasters Its too bad others can't see the logic behind this and will argue with you that you are wrong.
I will tell you what, i don't care what the dyno #'s show but my BUTT dyno feels a gain when i removed that mechanical fan from both my cars. That was def worth the $$ and besides, depending on what electric fans you get, some cannot out flow a mechanical fan (cheaper generic ones) while other higher $$ fans WILL out flow the mechanical fan EASILY ...
And another note, removing that mechanical fan is considered a bolt on hp adder ..!!
@@ACommenterOnUA-cam Yup, you are definitely right. The fan really sucks the power away when the truck is hot and the clutch engages. Maybe one day I'll buy one of the expensive electric fans and install them.
@@TheMinuteMasters my nissan 240sx i use the altima oem dual 12s, they flow 1500 cfm on low speed and 3000 cfm on high speed, and for my Supra i use the lexus IS300 oem dual 12's, those are single speed at ~2700 cfm so plenty of flow to cool down.
@@ACommenterOnUA-cam Nice! I’ve heard of people taking fans from newer cars and putting those on F150s. 240sx are very cool! My last car was a 86 300zx.
YOU ARE WRONG! Doesn't matter that the gain was at the wheels, it's still just a 4 HP gain since you're talking about the difference. Parasitic don't change and their effect is subtracted out when you look at the before and after difference.
Electric fans here I come 😎
Claiming power increases by a single dyno run and with no proper SAE procedures to ensure the result is valid is what UA-cam kids are looking for: someone telling them what they want to hear.
Dyno results don’t lie. It’s also simple physics. If you remove a something causing resistance and that particular thing also has mass, it’s going to make the rotating assembly lighter. A lighter rotating assembly frees up horsepower.
Besides, this truck isn’t perfect and won’t be driven in a perfect environment. So to test for results in an otherwise SAE controlled environment is meaningless.
@@TheMinuteMasters You're 100% correct, it's simple physics. If you remove that something causing resistance you free-up power only to lose it again by re-adding resistance back in the form of alternator CEMF or counter-electromotive force 'cause you know electric fans do use power from the crankshaft to turn right? You may not loose as much and that loss may not be present 100% of the time (fans off) so that's why the gain is so tiny and really not very usable.
@@istudiowebmstr You are exactly right. 3 hp through the entire curve isn’t worth the money to install electric fans, especially when the increased alternator load may reduce that 3 hp gain.
This experiment supports usual advice that to gain horsepower isn’t easy and it takes lots of money.
@@TheMinuteMasters ...unfortunately more likely to be the case. Now that doesn't mean the same applies to every motor, some may show higher gains than others. As far as I can tell based on years of experience, gains aren't that great and when compared to the cost and complexity they aren't worth the hassle. Now, another factor is if activation management is not correctly dialed-in according to the drivetrain/vehicle more often than not you may be running into other kind of problems like incorrect air-fuel ratio given the new temps and the timing of the coolant flow going in and out the engine, then again what looks like an easy 5 hp is probably not.
@@istudiowebmstr You make great points. I made this video several years ago and I still haven’t installed electric fans. It’s just not worth it.