@@thesnakeslair5908 I use a spray car wax - but if you use something like this - you must make sure it will not melt the paint. PRS used an acrylic automotive finish on this particular model so it was safe to use.
I think their phase one locking came out around 1997 - they are on phase 3 now - they phase 3 are a bit better and easier to use and maybe a bit more stable - I can't quite tell a major difference, but I'm sure they are just about the best you can get.
Even with locking tuners you probably want to make sure you have a full turn around the peg. On some of your lower strings you may not get that if you pull it "as tight as you can" before locking. The reason is so that the string is pulling on the entire peg evenly and not just one side of the peg disproportionately from the other side. It's a small detail, probably not super important, but it is something that's considered by some and even mentioned in a PRS build video. Theoretically, it should help tuning stability and the lifetime of the tuner.
thanks for pointing that out - I think it's a lot more important with heavier gauge strings - I've used 10's since I've had the guitar as well as I always end up poking my self in the finger with the g through e stings so I do it this way for those reasons. If you have a link to the PRS build video I'd love to see it :)
I could give you the direct link but I'll send you to the thread because I think you'll enjoy going through the videos/whole build and you may enjoy joining the forum and contributing (if you haven't already). The clip I mentioned is on comment #163 (the comments are numbered in the bottom right corner) on page 9 contributed by Shawn@PRS and its the second video on that comment. @ about 8 minutes in. The reasoning he gives for the "1 turn" is a bit lame. It may affect tone but it would affect tuning stability more. forums.prsguitars.com/threads/pauls-weekly-guitar-talk.23033/page-9
that doesn't make sense. the shaft of the tuner is pulled toward the bridge no matter how many turns you have. The PRS tuners only need half a wind around the peg so that the string loops back around to point at itself. The stress is on the shaft which is where it is supposed to be, and the thumbscrew simply stops the string slipping. If you start putting winds on a locking tuner you are defeating the purpose of the thing in the first place
Old comment and I see your points but, the video Elliot mentions has two people from PRS explaining the same thing. So yeah it is strange they say one thing on the site but the actual builders and one referred to as the assembly manager, back up what Elliot is saying. In short someone asks why are you wrapping it and his response is tone. Saying you can hear the difference between no wrap and one. The dude behind then says if you don't wrap the pressure is on the locking screw and not the peg, but also notes too many wraps and you'll lose tuning stability when using the trem.
Hey Serrano - thanks for this - I didn't realize they started making "SE" branded locking tuners - looking at them, they are the same design, they should function the same way as in this video with the thumb screw on top, but it looks like they might be a slighly cheaper material or gear - their "core" line tuners cost about $100 more. I think there is a chance they are actually the same quality and maybe one is US or EU made and the others are made over seas. To clearly answer your question, they should funciton exactly the same as I'm showing the video, all locking tuners - at least the thumb screw tuners will function very simlar to this, for example schaller tuners have the thumb screw on the back of the head stock instead of the top of the tuner, personally I think the prs ones are slighly easier to use maybe slighlty better quality, but I'm kinda biased to PRS, I've had lots of different brands of locking tuners, even the wilkinson ones are pretty good. The cheaper locking tuners typically do NOT have a thumb screw and it makes it slower and more difficult to change strings, so I'd say as long as it has a thumb screw you'll like them. If you're looking to buy a set for your guitar, do make sure the tuning peg hole fits the tuner, they are not all the same size and if you have a strat style guitar you also have to make sure the tuning peg is high enough for the B and E string and that it fits your string trees - Dave
@@serranodavid3247 You could always email PRS tech suppport and ask, maybe they will send you some for free :) sometimes they do stuff like that - or if you need them as an emergency you might be able to ask them which size screw it is and find a much cheaper replacment at your local hardware store, if you can't find black ones you could always paint the tops or get brass ones. Asking them is probably your best option if you need them right away - Dave
@@serranodavid3247 oh also if you bought the guitar new or it has the hardware kit that came with it - there at typically a few of them inside the tech bag. I think mine had 3 spares in the bag. You may not have noticed they were in there if you didn't look since they are so small.
I sent Q & A for some phase ll/lll locking thumb screw, on Amazon and the answer was yes, so l took a shot in the dark and ordered them! What the heck, if don't fit without modifications I'll just send them back...I'm assuming the string post have the same threads?
Hello. You may want to invest in some Tonepros locking stud bolts for that bridge, since they can have a tendency to tilt forward. I purchased the locking studs for my PRS SE Bernie Marsden and they are great. You need to ascertain whether you need metric or imperial bolts. I know that the Mira guitar is made in the USA, but the parts may be Korean.
This is actually one of the 2008 core Mira guitars before the made the S2 models so it has all PRS USA core parts, but since they are Phase II they were designed by PRS but actually made by Schaller. I haven't needed to tune my guitar for almost a month - though I'm due for a new set of strings :) I have a custom 22 SE model and I know what you mean about the tuners, though I never had any major issues with them. They aren't the highest quality, but they are far better than what comes stock on most guitars.
Its a compensated bridge which means its cut so that each string length is different from nut to “saddle” Look up “compensated tail piece” and you’ll see what I mean
I think you missed the last step before cutting off the excess....5. Bend the string backwards towards the outside of the headstock to help lock in place. from www.prsguitars.com/index.php/support/article/phase_locking_tuners
Yes Brian, I did skip that part - it's kind of overkill because you've already crimped the string into place with the locking mechanism. Personally I don't do that part and I might ad - my guitar stays in tune with in a quarter turn here and there until I change the strings. I'm a really hard strummer too - It really isn't a necessary step and I'm not quite sure why PRS has it in the instructions. I don't know a single person who is a serious player who does that step... I left it off in the video because I thought I might confuse people.
Maybe? I'm not sure if it will fit, Paul Reed Smith says the slot is specifically designed to fit a quarter - if it fits it's fine. Personally I just do it by hand because if you over tighten the locking mechanism - which is very easy to do - it will cut through the string and the string will break right away as you tune it or shortly after when you are playing. You just want it to clamp down on the string, it should be snug, but not really tight. I've actually gone through the string doing it by hand... If you don't mind wasting a string I would stress test it so you know how tight it should be... or if you have an old set put them on and tighten it. The g-e stings are the easiest ones to cut. Also I think the reason the slot is there is to make it easier to unscrew vs tighten down the clamp.
No problem, but thank PRS because they have a set of step by step instructions on their website - I made the video from those :) Also thank them for great tuners :)
Maybe you're are fake?!?! I've never heard a single person say they slip??? I've played at least 50 guitars with these on them, I personally know multiple touring musicians who swear by them??? Do you have any proof they slip - I'm sure PRS would want to know or even replace them for free if there were any issues - aside from not using them properly.
The laton part in my locking looks so dark, how clean and got bright?
I'm not sure what you are asking???
Are you asking how to clean the fret board?
How to clean the screw?
How to clean the tuner?
@@Findyournextguitar yes the tunner, when i past the time the laton gold part, looks so dark
@@thesnakeslair5908 I use a spray car wax - but if you use something like this - you must make sure it will not melt the paint. PRS used an acrylic automotive finish on this particular model so it was safe to use.
I had this idea years ago when I first seen a locking tuners. Damn should have gotten a Paton
I think their phase one locking came out around 1997 - they are on phase 3 now - they phase 3 are a bit better and easier to use and maybe a bit more stable - I can't quite tell a major difference, but I'm sure they are just about the best you can get.
Even with locking tuners you probably want to make sure you have a full turn around the peg. On some of your lower strings you may not get that if you pull it "as tight as you can" before locking.
The reason is so that the string is pulling on the entire peg evenly and not just one side of the peg disproportionately from the other side.
It's a small detail, probably not super important, but it is something that's considered by some and even mentioned in a PRS build video. Theoretically, it should help tuning stability and the lifetime of the tuner.
thanks for pointing that out - I think it's a lot more important with heavier gauge strings - I've used 10's since I've had the guitar as well as I always end up poking my self in the finger with the g through e stings so I do it this way for those reasons.
If you have a link to the PRS build video I'd love to see it :)
I could give you the direct link but I'll send you to the thread because I think you'll enjoy going through the videos/whole build and you may enjoy joining the forum and contributing (if you haven't already). The clip I mentioned is on comment #163 (the comments are numbered in the bottom right corner) on page 9 contributed by Shawn@PRS and its the second video on that comment. @ about 8 minutes in. The reasoning he gives for the "1 turn" is a bit lame. It may affect tone but it would affect tuning stability more. forums.prsguitars.com/threads/pauls-weekly-guitar-talk.23033/page-9
Awesome share, thanks!
that doesn't make sense. the shaft of the tuner is pulled toward the bridge no matter how many turns you have. The PRS tuners only need half a wind around the peg so that the string loops back around to point at itself. The stress is on the shaft which is where it is supposed to be, and the thumbscrew simply stops the string slipping. If you start putting winds on a locking tuner you are defeating the purpose of the thing in the first place
Old comment and I see your points but, the video Elliot mentions has two people from PRS explaining the same thing. So yeah it is strange they say one thing on the site but the actual builders and one referred to as the assembly manager, back up what Elliot is saying.
In short someone asks why are you wrapping it and his response is tone. Saying you can hear the difference between no wrap and one. The dude behind then says if you don't wrap the pressure is on the locking screw and not the peg, but also notes too many wraps and you'll lose tuning stability when using the trem.
Are the locking thumb screw same as SE locking tuners, since the SE is overseas?
Hey Serrano - thanks for this - I didn't realize they started making "SE" branded locking tuners - looking at them, they are the same design, they should function the same way as in this video with the thumb screw on top, but it looks like they might be a slighly cheaper material or gear - their "core" line tuners cost about $100 more. I think there is a chance they are actually the same quality and maybe one is US or EU made and the others are made over seas.
To clearly answer your question, they should funciton exactly the same as I'm showing the video, all locking tuners - at least the thumb screw tuners will function very simlar to this, for example schaller tuners have the thumb screw on the back of the head stock instead of the top of the tuner, personally I think the prs ones are slighly easier to use maybe slighlty better quality, but I'm kinda biased to PRS, I've had lots of different brands of locking tuners, even the wilkinson ones are pretty good.
The cheaper locking tuners typically do NOT have a thumb screw and it makes it slower and more difficult to change strings, so I'd say as long as it has a thumb screw you'll like them.
If you're looking to buy a set for your guitar, do make sure the tuning peg hole fits the tuner, they are not all the same size and if you have a strat style guitar you also have to make sure the tuning peg is high enough for the B and E string and that it fits your string trees - Dave
I'm hoping the thumb screws are threaded the same as to get some spares.
@@serranodavid3247 You could always email PRS tech suppport and ask, maybe they will send you some for free :) sometimes they do stuff like that - or if you need them as an emergency you might be able to ask them which size screw it is and find a much cheaper replacment at your local hardware store, if you can't find black ones you could always paint the tops or get brass ones. Asking them is probably your best option if you need them right away - Dave
@@serranodavid3247 oh also if you bought the guitar new or it has the hardware kit that came with it - there at typically a few of them inside the tech bag. I think mine had 3 spares in the bag. You may not have noticed they were in there if you didn't look since they are so small.
I sent Q & A for some phase ll/lll locking thumb screw, on Amazon and the answer was yes, so l took a shot in the dark and ordered them! What the heck, if don't fit without modifications I'll just send them back...I'm assuming the string post have the same threads?
Hello. You may want to invest in some Tonepros locking stud bolts for that bridge, since they can have a tendency to tilt forward. I purchased the locking studs for my PRS SE Bernie Marsden and they are great. You need to ascertain whether you need metric or imperial bolts. I know that the Mira guitar is made in the USA, but the parts may be Korean.
This is actually one of the 2008 core Mira guitars before the made the S2 models so it has all PRS USA core parts, but since they are Phase II they were designed by PRS but actually made by Schaller. I haven't needed to tune my guitar for almost a month - though I'm due for a new set of strings :)
I have a custom 22 SE model and I know what you mean about the tuners, though I never had any major issues with them. They aren't the highest quality, but they are far better than what comes stock on most guitars.
Man! I totally hadn't wrapped my strings around the bridge! Yikes! Thanks...
It's easy to miss, I can't tell you how many times I put the strings in and then realized they were upside down...
I've always wondered, how do you intoneate that bridge?
Its a compensated bridge which means its cut so that each string length is different from nut to “saddle”
Look up “compensated tail piece” and you’ll see what I mean
I think you missed the last step before cutting off the excess....5. Bend the string backwards towards the outside of the headstock to help lock in place. from www.prsguitars.com/index.php/support/article/phase_locking_tuners
Yes Brian, I did skip that part - it's kind of overkill because you've already crimped the string into place with the locking mechanism. Personally I don't do that part and I might ad - my guitar stays in tune with in a quarter turn here and there until I change the strings.
I'm a really hard strummer too - It really isn't a necessary step and I'm not quite sure why PRS has it in the instructions. I don't know a single person who is a serious player who does that step...
I left it off in the video because I thought I might confuse people.
My anxiety was high seeing that Mira so close to the edge of the table 😱
No chance it could fall lol - it looks worse than it is from the film angle
Can I use a nickel?
Maybe? I'm not sure if it will fit, Paul Reed Smith says the slot is specifically designed to fit a quarter - if it fits it's fine. Personally I just do it by hand because if you over tighten the locking mechanism - which is very easy to do - it will cut through the string and the string will break right away as you tune it or shortly after when you are playing.
You just want it to clamp down on the string, it should be snug, but not really tight.
I've actually gone through the string doing it by hand... If you don't mind wasting a string I would stress test it so you know how tight it should be... or if you have an old set put them on and tighten it.
The g-e stings are the easiest ones to cut.
Also I think the reason the slot is there is to make it easier to unscrew vs tighten down the clamp.
I recommend a US penny. It is the exact width of a penny
Wow just wow thanks🙃
No problem, but thank PRS because they have a set of step by step instructions on their website - I made the video from those :)
Also thank them for great tuners :)
Thank you!
They're just to tall...looks funky.
yea, nah, these things are a POS. they slip. back to the normal PRS tuners for me. haha
Maybe you're are fake?!?! I've never heard a single person say they slip??? I've played at least 50 guitars with these on them, I personally know multiple touring musicians who swear by them???
Do you have any proof they slip - I'm sure PRS would want to know or even replace them for free if there were any issues - aside from not using them properly.