LOCKING TUNERS - You're Doing It Wrong! | GEAR GODS
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2016
- Have you been using locking tuners the right way?
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okay, no wrappy on the locky locky. got it.
I used to do it this way, but was told i was wrong. Dammit lol
500th LIKEEEEEEE
Holy crap, 500+ likes on this stupid comment? Thanks guys I guess lol
Thank you for this brief tutorial!
Beautiful guitar! Can you get jazz tones from it?
Every time I see a video like this uploaded I get nervous lol
fuck
Why haha
Yeah, why?
Cause I'm afraid I've unintentionally been causing catastrophic damage to my guitar
Ash Scott you're everywhere
There’s no better guitar related invention than locking tuners. Pure genius.
until the Evertune bridge was invented, anyway!
I don't think the evertune is necessary. Just tune your strings slightly flat. That way when you play a note the strings will vibrate to the correct pitch.
Ok what about the amp?
My guitar came with the strings wrapped around the post straight out of the factory, so every time I re-strung the guitar, I would apply a wrap. After seeing this video, I have started to do it the way shown above, but now I just keep getting string breakages on the high E, B, and G string, but this never happened before when I applied a wrap. I've been looking on a few different guitar forums and a majority seem to say that you should at least apply one wrap on the higher strings as the clamp can cut straight through the string's.
Darrell Braun did a review of a Schecter LP that had locking tuners and came from the factory wrapped several times. He explained that they do that so you can choose Drop D or any other alternative tuning method. Makes sense to me.
@@bill9989 Darell is wrong on that one-you don't need a full extra wrap for any tuning, let alone 2 of them that usually come from the factory. Full wrap will detune any string to a point of being unusable. It's just that the sharper bend at the pivot point on a tuner is indeed more likely to break the string than the 'circular' one after at least one wrap so, to avoid the extra costs, factories just use their typical method of restringing, whether the guitar has locking tuners or not. That way they avoid one of the two common points of breakage during manufacture-the other being the bridge (which they'll sometimes keep purposefully too low in relation to the tail piece for the same reason).
@@zwerko Thanks. I just bought replacement locking tuners for my PRS SE. PRS has a video whereby the tech used two fingers to raise the strings off the fret board before locking the strings. Then he winds and says there is a 3/4 wrap on the tuner. So that seems to agree with your "you don't need a full extra wrap."
That’s because this guy’s advice is garbage. If you leave the string at the edge of the hole like this you will get string breaking, the tension on the strings still has to be on the rounded part of the tuning post so it IS best to give it at least one wrap around the post to insure that the string isn’t resting on the hard edge of the tuning post hole.
this makes sense to me, I was going to mention that maybe the reason some people that this guy has seen thats been using wraps on locking tuners is due to the fact that cheaply made chinese locking tuners often end up with stripped threads on the locking post clamp thing forcing people t use them traditionally.
Today I learned what locking tuners do! I've never owned a guitar with locking tuners (yet!), so I never really understood what locking tuners actually do. Thanks, Trey!
Ditto!
I just don't get the mystery of what"locking tuners" do. Sure the exact mechanics of how it works and for me how to best change the strings but its not a stretch to think a locking tuner somehow locks the string in.
They really just make string changes easier. They will still go out of tune due to strings stretching.
You sound like a bot lmao
I’ve always despised changing strings, today I just restrung an 8 string with locking tuners, in half the time of my old 6 strings. I wish all my guitars had locking tuners, they are genius! Finally haha
Duuuuude! I know! Just got an ec1000 with them and restringing was a breeze
Just got a guitar with locking tuners. Thought it locked the tuner once I had the strings in tune, lol. I “unlocked” another tuner and the string popped out. I was like wtf?! I thought I broke a string. UA-cam search for locking tuners, watched your vid, I am now a much wiser man! Thanks!
Dude literally same
Literally exact same
My guitar teacher taught me to bend every time i tune the string and do it till it doesnt detune and it works really well if done right
Or use the tremolo system. Then again not everyone has one. Still get locking tuners
Ya. Everytime I tune i just play E minor scale with bands on every string and then retune. And my Gibson will stay in tune perfectly for almost a week. Without locking tuners. Unless you do wild dive bombs with a floyd or something theres no need
All that needs to be done is stretching the strings. Get them snug, then grab with both hands and roll wrists in opposite directions up and down the string (pulling at the string at the bridge and tuners essentially). Repeat with all strings and your strings are broken in and will hold tension without stretching anymore.
@@eleven9286 I gotta see what you mean, I'm a visual learner ugh.
I do the same shit
1:41 me every time I'm changing strings lol
Wow, I had never seen such a nice fretboard. Need the same.
its a kiesel edition guitar. i think its about $6,000.
no it's just a DC7x with a kiesel treated fretboard, it's like a $300 option you can add to any guitar
+no no no no no no
+Gear Gods wait so is this a Carvin guitar or kiesel
+Mel Alvarez I think it's by the same owners, they recently changed the name to Kiesel guitars iirc
I've been giving my brother so much shit for the past few years for not wrapping the post... just going to pretend i didn't watch this.
If it makes you feel any better PRS advise including an amount of wrap with locking tuners (jump to 6:00). Using locking tuners without any slack will put a lot of tension on the strings, as they settle in between playing there will be a larger +/- variance in tuning, so I don't think including some string around the post is "wrong", I think it depends on the individual and the instrument itself. Over time as the strings become stretched you will end up with string wound to the post anyway, and I have never seen anyone re-adjust in that scenario...
ua-cam.com/video/Oz46w9k2E7A/v-deo.html
I mean no offense but I'm very curious - how does one get into the mindset that you should wrap on locking tuners? The whole selling point for them is literally that you don't have to waste time wrapping the strings and can instead just clamp them down and tune very quickly.
@@paintsplatta99 in my view i would that locking is invented gizmo that is fundamentally not as good as quality standard tuners... But I can see the case for it depending on your use, such as whammy dives. Quicker isn't better IMO.
@@sxdrujandis To each his own. Since I’ve swapped to locking tuners, my tuning stability is so much better and I have a lot of guitars so there’s a good spread of headstocks to sample. I always though they were just for convenience but if I had know they improved stability this much, I would have swapped a long time ago
I just put locking tuners on my main guitar today and used this video to make sure I did it right. Tuning stability is great! Thanks Trey!
Also, unwind the tuner before unlocking it. If you unlock under tension, the string will slip out and may wear the clamp over time.
Just cut your strings, you barbarian
So you can mess up your guitar if locking tuners are a new concept to you?
Almost speaks for itself. Unlocking under tension will cause the string to slip out FAST AND FORCIBLY. Might as well wear eye protection then.
@@svenjansen2134and get someone else to do it while I hide behind an upturned table 😂😂😂
I don't fully trim them until I have stretched them in, unlocked, pulled through and locked again. Plus, do not overtighten, many can cause damage to strings leading to a break, partucularly the unwound ones.
I always thought this was common sense. But, interestingly, my Kiesel Aries came with windings from the factory. Guess they didn't get the memo.
Bit late, but same with my ernie ball. You’d assume you’re paying upwards of 3600$, that the company should know what the hell they’re doing lmao
@@williamharke7425 My Schecter Nick Johnston came with wraps too....
@@humanbeing2420 lol samez just got a Nick Johnston last week which is my first locking tuner guitar and I didn't know how the hell to use them
I always thought they locked the tuner from being able to be turned unless they were unlocked first. I had no idea it was only for locking the string in. Thanks!
I wish it would that would make more sense
@@JFields718 - That wouldn't make more sense. It would just make the tuning machine more complicated. The worm gear setup of tuning hardware has enough friction so that it is not going to move without someone touching the tuning knob. That's why they have locking necks.
After 32 years of playing, got my first guitar with locking tuners this week, thanks for this, it was very useful
Thank you! I needed that lesson! ♥
Hey Trey, sure that works but you will relieve a bit of tension on the tuner if you turn the hole in the peg at 90 degrees to the string to start instead of parallel, then insert the string and pull the string tight and lock... that way the string will wrap approx 1/4 of the way around the peg when tuned and relieve some of the string tension thus insuring that the string wont slip if you didnt tighten the pin quite enough, and with only 1/4 of a wrap there is no string slipping or stretching... I find that that works even better but what the hell do I know being 60 years old and playing since I was 13
Makes sense to me
Thx, but 90 degrees which way?
@@garettoverstreet opposite of the direction you tune in.
This checks
I was doing it the wrong way this whole time! Thanks for spreading good knowledge!
I’ve been doing it this way for forever until recently. If our want more string tension and break angle out can add a wrap or two depending on preference. The way shown in the video is the most efficient for quick changes but maybe not for people who swapped locking tuners on a les Paul custom and suddenly 48s feel like 46s until you add the wraps back on to simulate where the break angle would be without locking tuners. Also noticed with 3+3 guitars that the g string stays in tune better with more wraps and harsher break angle.
It's been well over a decade since I've had an electric guitar in my life. This week, an Ibanez Talman came home with me; my first locking tuners. Without understanding the concept, I let loose the high e string. All I have are acoustic strings around, so back to the music store to buy strings today. This video is absolutely helpful and I'll likely rewatch later today when changing strings. Thanks for it!! I enjoy so many of your vids!
Yo! I did this today on a brand new 8-string Ibanez. I wish I would have learned from your lesson. Same brand, same string, same problem with only acoustic strings at home. I am gonna slap an "acoustic" high E on and see what happens though.
Thanks for explaining string theory to us all.
Penny? Is that you?
Just got a RGMS7, I thought the lock stopped the tuner from turning, so this has been insanely informative, thanks so much!!!
Agreed, my Schecter Hellraiser C-1 came with them, that's my only ride that has this feature, I was wrapping as instructed by my guitar instructor many many, jeesh, maaaany years ago. It does seem sp foreign to me to not have 1 wrap above the string and 2-3 wraps below, my understanding has always been that this technique will in-fact keep the strings from stretching and such? Thanks @ Gear Gods! Still not sure bout this lol.
By not having the string wrap about 3/4ths the way around, it has lead to strings prematurely breaking on me. Especially with a tremolo and especially with the thinner strings. But the wound strings can be a problem as well because the winding breaks when it is bent at 90 degrees. It just seems like it's too much direct pressure on that 90 degree bend--where the integrity of the string has been compromised from bending it around through a sharp edged string post corner--and by having it wrapped 3/4ths the way around, you relieve some of that direct pressure and place it onto the round side of the post. I have never had my strings go out of turn by having them wrapped only 3/4ths the way around; that's not enough wrapping to cause a tuning problem.
I figured this out after fitting locking tuners - well done for making it so clear. I'll know from now on - especially that tip about lining up the hole in the tuner before clamping. I'd never have thought of that on my own.
I know this is an older video, but have to say thank you. I’ve been playing for 20 years and just bought my first guitar without a floyd rose. My ESP viper-1000 came with locking tuners and they are new to me.
I love locking tuners. Haven't had them long but it makes changing strings so much quicker and no slipping as you tune them up.
You have locking root vegetables? 🤣
Thank you so much. I've got my first guitar with locking tuners and I had no clue what they were for lmao. I had wrapped it around and when I use the trem it goes out of tune. Thankfully I have a spare set of strings
We have some new people in the store and you're videos are really helping us out. Thanks a lot for this.
Subbed. Thanks for the easy explanation and demo. Just got a Schecter PT-7 with locking tuners. First guitar I've owned with them! Loving it so far. Looking forward to more vids. Thanks!
One gear head to another, I've been using locking tuners for about 15 years now. Tend to stick with Schaller, but, that's more brand loyalty than anything else. I've always done the 6th, 5th, and 4th strings just like you show here, but the 1st 2nd, and 3rd strings I wrap around the post a few times. I feel like the wound strings won't be slipping but the non-wound strings will. What is your opinion on that? I'm guessing you're not having any problems. Thanks for taking the time.
I tune my guitars between 2 or more whole steps so I have to have at least a half wind at e or d standard. Otherwise the constant bending right out of the post hole stresses the string to breaking (I also tend to leave the same strings on for months)
weird. I'm in drop B with a low F# on the 7th and I never wrap, never had issues. That's only 1.5 whole steps down on the reg 6 strings and an entire step on the low 7. I use 10-54s and a 74 on top tho, maybe that the difference.
Finally. After watching a bunch of videos a straight forward and fully explained instruction video on locking tuners. Thanks for this.
Thank you for the clear and easy steps on how to install the strings with locking tuners. I thought the hard part would be in switching out the old tuners for the locking tuners, but it turned out the hard part was the strings and how to properly use the locks. I was winding too much string around the tuning pegs AND not tightening the locks enough.
Today I learned that some people have 7 strings on their guitars.
Arthur Vandelay there also 12 strings too don't forget that!
Well, except that conventional 12 strings don't follow the concept of the 7, 8, 9, and 10 stringed guitars. 7, 8, 9, and 10 stringed guitars are extended range whereas 12 strings are basically just a conventionally guitar with each string being in pairs of the same note in different octaves.
A 12 string is basically a 6 string, just with a chorus effect because each string has a small higher tension string next to it. 7, 8, 9 and so on strings stacked are an entirely different concept allowing for more notes to be played.
Felix Martin uses 14 and 16 string guitars but I'm not sure if there is overlap in the string gauges.
Roger McQuinn had a 12 string guitar
It was like nothing I'd ever heard.
I did not know this about locking tuners
Thanks for making this video. I had mostly figured these things out, but others may have had difficulty.
This is straying from the topic of the video slightly, but I find reaching tuning stability for new strings with locking tuners is much faster.
This is good technique, it works and I also took the opportunity to restring with D’Addario 11-49 with a wound G on my Gretsch. Excellent,
thank you and greetings from the UK.
slightly wrapping wound strings actually creates a mechanical connection around
the post, and stops heavy gauge strings from unwinding themselves, which tends to happen when you go past about 60.
It actually helps the guitar stay in tune better. The best method is to lock the string down when it's slightly slack so it gets about halfway around the post so there's
no sharp angles.
You don't need that "mechanical connection around the post" because the string is mechanically connected *inside* the post! Any string after the hole is sat there doing literally nothing!
But you do want a less sharp "break", because as in the video the string WILL move at the connection with the tuner
with (at least) one wind, there is less stress on the sharper angle where the string comes out of the post
rewatch and listen carefully
Maybe thats why my dad went crazy after 60🤔
Nightdare you dont want any wraps with tuners like these. Ive veen using tgem for over 20yrs and this is how its done.
I've tried this technique and it lead strings to break if you try to change your scale. It is better to make half a turn at least.
I have totally been using locking tuners wrong! Thank you for this video!
Thank you for explaining this! I restringed my 7 string for the first time and freaked out when I realized the locking tuners were on it, your video really helped!
Personally I like the hole to be past the apex so the string rests on the shaft of the post rather than the tension starting directly at the hole. 1/2 to 3/4 of a wrap. I've had string brake when strung like he's suggesting.
The position of the hole where the string enters the hole should be at 9 to 12 O'clock for tunes on the left side of the head-stock and not at 1 or 2 O'clock like he has. Then if you have tuners on the right side, the entry hole should be at 12 to 3 O'clock and not at 4 O'clock as he has. This is what works best for me.
However, he's absolutely right about multiple wraps on the post. The entire principal of the locking tuner is for quick string changing with less turns on the posts and therefor less time restringing along with less room for slop when dipping the wamblam! It circumvents the need for having a locking nut yet one can still tune with the head-stock tuners...
JMHO
This is my first time changing strings on a hardtail, most of my guitars have locking trems. This one is a Jackson Monarkh, and it does not have adjustable parts to turn on the back of the neck. These have a flat screwdriver type groove on top so you turn the peg that way then put the string through and tighten up again with a screwdriver but this peg won't turn enough times to where it is locked before it clamps down too hard and cuts the string and it pops free.
jenraider72 no need to tighten the peg with a screwdriver. Once the string is through, you wind and the peg locks itself.
I totally agree with the 3/4 turn wrap, it's what I've been doing with locking tuners since the 1980s. When I got my first set of Sperzels back 30+ years ago, I did it the way the guy in the video shows, and I started having string breakage issues right at the bend point. Then I started doing the 3/4 turn, and my breakage problems went away. Also, if your nut is binding, your fancy locking tuners are worthless. Make sure your nut slots are properly cut with no binding or pinging. Otherwise, it is a friction point. I always lube my nuts regardless of the material they are made of. In my experience, the less friction, the better the tuning stability.
Definitely on the unwound strings!
I played an american Tele with locking tuners, and the strings were wound as you suggest. I found the tuning to be remarkably unstable. Every time I bent the string, the tuning changed by 10-15 cents. I double checked to be sure the locks were tight, and they were. I also made sure nothing was binding, and it wasn't. There was no tremelo system on there to mess things up... it was just the tuners weren't doing a good job holding it. I think that a wrap or two would have been a good idea. It wouldn't be stressing the lock, but rather, it would ensure that nothing moved while not overly stressing the locking part. I highly recommend wrapping.
Zavach85 It wasn't mine. I tried a brand new $1,800 Fender Tele Elite at Guitar Center.
Dartheomus If its not your tuners, or your nut or any of the hardware... it might be your neck.
My old epiphone les Paul wouldnt hold tuning for shit. I tried everything. Took it to a guitar tech, and he basically said its a build issue and the neck is way too flexible.
Its a concern I have now every time I play even a higher range guitar. I tried a prs Holcomb the other day, and I'm gonna go back when the strings have settled because I want to be 100 percent sure its not a neck issue. Also it doesnt have locking tuners...
and tuning stability is my top priority over everything else.
Yea, with guitars, I've found it best to not assume that because they're expensive, thar gonna be of good quality. Someone else mentioned about it being a neck problem, if it ain't any of your hardware. That, I agree with.
With telecasters, they usually have bolt-on necks, I'd ensure those four bolts are as tight as they can go & also, I'd check the truss rod's alignment too. That can be done my placing a steel ruler (or any other straight edge) over your frets & basically "eyeballin' it" for any gaps between the frets & the ruler (or your preferred straight edge).
On all 6 of my guitars with bolt on necks, I've replaced the wood screws (bolts) with a machine screw & screw in nut for wood. There are kits available with this same idea. I dropped a little wood glue to strengthen the wood for the threads, & a drop of thread lock on machine threads. The neck when tightened presses against the threaded nut, doesn't put much stress on the body pocket screw holes. Necks has never loosened up. When I was a kid, the first thing I did to bolt on necks was to take the wood screws (bolts) out & inject wood glue into the screw holes, strengthen the wood & keep the screws from loosening. Oh yeah, I'm 62 & had a guitar since 16.
This is why I like Jackson guitars, they put graphite reinforcement rods into a lot of their necks to add stability to them. My cheap Jackson with stock non-locking tuners, hangs from its headstock all day on its stand and rarely needs to be tuned. Once a week I might need to tweak a string or two before I start playing and it gets played every day. It also doesn't have a trem system which probably helps a bit. Each post has 2-3 wraps except the B string, which for some reason has about 5 wraps, that is the string I usually have to tweak.
This was very helpful! I just bought my first guitar with locking tuners, ESP E-II Horizon FR-7
I'll remember to do this when I replace the bridge and tuners on my Strat copy, and change to a fresh set of strings. Looking forward to the results. Thanks for this!
Just wondering what would happen if you wanted to use a drop D tuning or similar? It seems to you would need extra winds on the bass strings?
You can still tune down. The desired (lower) note will still be more tension than the tension applied by hand before tightening the screw.
The wound part on the lower strings is not the string, it is there to add mass, The string carrying the tension is smooth and inside the coil. So I would suggest a single wrap then clamp to get the best of both worlds.
After installing my first set of locking tuners, I've made it a point to equip every guitar I own with them. Once you get used to locking tuners, changing strings the old-fashioned way just feels like a chore.
I just got some locking tuners on an Elite and had no idea what I was doing wrong. Now I know. Thanks!
In my experience, I want a little more slack in my string (barely) so when tuned, the string is more than 90 degrees, but less than a full turn. If less than 90 degrees, the lock on tuner must be much tighter to keep from pulling out. Lock doesn't need near as much "tightness" after the 90 degree point.
I was jist wondering the same thing , if perhaps something like 180 degrees would work better and put the tuner in a stronger position
Good point on the 90 deg. I was wondering about breaking the top e string, surely when lock is tight down that's got to be the weak point. Have you experienced that? Cheers
I Always put at least 1/2+ wrap, on locking tuners. More than once, the 1st string will snap at the tuner, due to the edge of the hole (even though it is camphored) after a few years of aging..
That guitar finish is pure pornography !
Ohhh.. Just installed locking tuners for the first time, and this was exactly what I needed to know.
That was such a chill demo. Awesome!
(Tuning without a tuner - BOSS)
12 kinds of Power Chords nowhere to be found.
lol
I assume it will be their next video to upload, and will be retroactively linked.
ua-cam.com/video/ik9TGv4YNX8/v-deo.html
i looked for this comment and was not disappointed!
I just installed those type of tuners and broke 3 strings at the post. Two high Es have snapped and 1 B. I checked for burrs on the post and the the thumb screw but they feel smooth and have read on forums that it may be from over tightening the thumb screw though I will have to wait until my new strings arrive to test this theory.
Same happened to me. With elixers.. Uggh🎸🔫
Just don‘t put your strings (all, but mainly the unwound ones) exactly thru the center of the hole for locking. Because so, if you tune up, the string will start to rotate at the pinch point and will break. Better to align the holes at 45 degrees relative to the fretboard, the upper part of the hole points away from the headstock. Now pull the string straight thru, parallel with the neck. At this moment the string stucks diagonal in the hole, then lock it. If you tune, the string will not want to rotate anymore.
Also give a bit of slack on the thin strings, so the string wraps about half post turn before on pitch. That little bit more friction on the post will reduce the pulling force at the locking point.
I also double the last 3mm of the high e, so the locking pin has double string to grab.
Thanks for keeping it short and to the point! Great video!
I still remember the first time I looked up 'how to' restring my new gibson sg, with locking tuners... I was like, hey, wait, I don't have to wrap these around and around and around and around? FAN-f'ing-TASTIC! Not only that, but so QUICK to change strings! HOORAY LOCKING TUNERS!!!! Now I want them on my acoustic guitars...
Thank you always wondered how they work verses conventional. Thank you
i was like how am i doing it wrong just t o find out i have, in fact, been doing it right. lmao
i do a similar thing, but I'll generally put the hole in a 45° angle from the nut when i pull the string through. that way, there's more contact with the post, giving more sustain, and it's less likely that the string could slip out, if your locking clamp slops.
I watched a few videos on this. And i think this video is the best in explaining and educating. Kudos!
im such a dumbass. i would unlock the tuners, tune the string and lock them back until the tuning is perfect.
Bones98 that's what you would do on floyd rose tremolo locking system lol
Isn't that how it works?
Haven't used locking tuners, so I haven't an idea.
Do you simply tune while they're locked?
yes
Did you watch the video? Yes, that's how you do it.
Joe Jane This is 2 months late, but it's just a screw that you put on top of the peg that pins the string to the peg so it can't slip
if u can't wrap the string around then how do u drop tune with locking machine heads
Leave some slack in the string before you clamp it. Don't pull it tight.
You don't need to leave slack, there's no way you can pull it tight enough before you clamp it for it to be even close to pitch. You'll be able to drop tune nearly as far as you can imagine with no problem.
Tyreek Murillo I've had locking tuners for years and never had problems dropping down. I can quite easily go down to b or c on my low e, and respectively with all my other strings.
Tyreek Murillo You can’t. You are right. And for us 6 string guitarists, drop D tuning is used and D open tunings. A UA-cam like me commented, he loosed the strings on his new guitar. All the strings fell out, unable to restring and use the clipped off too short strings. Had to replace the whole set. I did get somethings out of this 7 string video.
@@thomaspick4123 us 6 string guitarist like u can label any 7 string owner- wrong. I play a 4 string guitar called a bass too so I guess I'm a mutt.
Futurama references are always appreciated lol I just bought a set of Hipshot locking tuners and I'm looking forward to trying them! Thanks for the video
thank you for not playing the axe a bunch and telling me what i need to see! Awesome upload
I still put one wrap around the peg with locking tuners. Feel like I get more tuning stability and don't have that 90° sharp bend just going straight through the locking peg.
Ha ha. You said ‘ my A, which is a 64’ and I’m thinking what kind of fucking A string comes in that size? Didn’t realize you meant the low.
Thanks, man. I'm using Hipshot tuners. I restrung my Les Paul exactly the way you explained it in the video and did bends on the G string and it didn't go out of tune; that's on a LP! Never going back to regular tuners.
Oh thank goodness, I was ALMOST about to do the wrapping part until you mentioned don't! Thanks for the heads up!
Bending with the fingers can't unwrap the strings. You've got it spot on regarding how to use the locking tuners.
I've never had a guitar with locking tuners.. I always assumed that locking tuners physically locked the turning mechanism. I feel like locking tuner is a misnomer, all it's doing is grabbing the string, it's not actually locking the tuner, it's not an indication of how well the peg will stay where you left it.
I thought they might be a substitute for a locking nut but they don't do what I thought they did lol
Got it! Thanks man, I was doing it wrong.. let’s see how my Gibson les paul G string feels about this .. cheers
Thank you for sharing this video I've only just bought some guitars with locking tuners but now I know how to actually use them.
My dumbass used to think in order to tune your guitar, you gotta loosen the locking tuner lololololol
Hi, how about in case of a drop D tuning? I think when you want to drop to D, tuning the string will be a hard thing to do? So, maybe better to wrap around the locker if you need to play with a drop D tuning?
I don't think there would be an issue. Even though with his straight through the post method, the string still doesn't have hardly any tention until he starts tuning. With drop D you don't need to unwind that much to get there. You could also run the string through the post and wind it about a 1/4 or 1/2 a turn and then lock the string and tune.
At the risk of sounding stupid, I fiddled with my tuners before looking for this video. Unwound the lock and the string sprung out and THEN it became readily apparent how it all hung together.
Now, because of that another "feature" became apparent - it was a lot easier to re-attach the string (stretch it, push it through, and clamp it). It was fiddly, but pretty straightforward. I am sure it is only of benefit to folks as uncoordinated as me, but it was certainly a relief that I could backtrack my blunder!
Got my 1st locking tuners today and this helps me a lot. Thanks!
Tried it this way on my bass strings and It snapped. There goes 30 bucks. I wouldn't recommend this way because the sharp angle from not wrapping creates a lot of tension on a small surface area of the string = snap city
soooooo.... no need for locking tunners if there is a lock at the nut?
+Travis Vodden it's still faster to change your strings with locking tuners, but it won't improve your stability
Hey..on my MIM strat I wanted to change the tuners to locking ones only to use the tremolo..but am confused now, if it doesn't keep the guitar in tune after using the tremolo with the locking tuners it dosent solve my problem..any advice? Thanks a lot
I have both... but also tech for all my guitars lol. It makes string changing a breeze.
I used to avoid locked trem systems but I own a rg1527z with an edge zero trem and its the most tuning stable guitar I have ever played.
Your strings are binding at the nut and/or bridge saddles. they catch and bind and then let go so your strings loosen up slightly.... lots of opinions on how to stop that!!
It helps to "straighten" the string above the nut so that it really is a 90 degree bend leaving the tuner post. Looks a bit better also.
I’m rebuilding my 1999 Ibanez RG220B, and like, when I bought that guitar in the mid-2000’s, instead of having a Floyd Rose which locked at the bridge and the nut, it had string-through lock bolts & didn’t lock at all & I went ALL-OUT…I painted it _Dimeslime_ yellow to green burst, I put a Seymour Duncan SH-13 Dimebucker in the bridge & a Seymour Duncan SH-1n 59 in the neck, I replaced the saddles with locking saddles, and I am running it with a Schaller Sure Claw (Allen key adjustable tremolo claw), and two _Göldo Back Box_ tremolo stabilizers & black Wilkenson 6 inline locking tuners…the problems I’m running into right now, the strings are either breaking above the nut because the locking tuning machines are separating the coiled strings or they’re breaking at the lock blocks or popping outta the lock blocks…
I’m ready to eithe cut my losses and buy an Olympic White Fender Strat which was factory equipped with a Floyd Rose II tremolo & load THAT up with the Schaller Sure Claw, Göldo Back Boxes, buy Fender F-Logo Locking tuners, an HSH Pearl white pickguard set up for a 5-Position blade switch, Volume pot in the standard position, and single tone pot in the second tone pot position and then drill it myself for three 3-Position On/On/On mini toggle switches which I will split coils with (front coil/both coils/rear coil) and then run a cream DiMarzio D Activator X Neck in the neck position, a white DiMarzio Super Distortion S in the middle position & a white DiMarzio X2N in the bridge position (all 3 pickups having chrome _rails)_ run Fender F-Logo Strap Locks, a white SRV style strap (with black music notes), plug it into my Marshall JCM800, and just rip
You forgot to mention greasing the nut. No matter how perfectly you use those locking pegs if your nut is sticking the strings you're screwed. Should have mentioned the grease on the nut while you were at it with tuning issues.
Good idea, I think I'll go grease my nut right now
What kind of grease should I use? I`ve heard something about graph powder....
nut sauce is best
I use Gibson guitar polish to lube the nut. It is a water based wax. Use a model paint brush to paint it on. Give it about 5 mins to dry before stringing it up.
if you're guilty of this you deserve a slap on the wrist and no interwebs for a week, because it's not working for you.
whatever works for you guys, I just followed this video word for word and my guitar sounds flawless.
One extra thing I do is pull the string as tightly as possible with a pair of pliers (without breaking the string, of course). If done correctly, most strings only need like a 1/6th revolution to be in tune. Especially on the B and high E strings, which tend to take more turns to tune, this helps tremendously.
who tf has been wrapping their strings with locking tuners?!?
that'd be like getting your first car and driving it to the bus stop.
surely not
Look, I’m sorry. I’ve been committing that mortal sin, as I got my first guitar with them, and had no idea what they did.
@@ripit.3457 hahah, that's fair enough man you didn't know. but if someone bought a guitar specifically with locking tuners, or bought them as an upgrade and didn't realise.. The fact the guy made this on a video makes it seem as if loads of people do it haha
I'm just not convinced that the problem this solves exists. In decades of playing guitar, I've never had a problem with multiple winds around the post-locking tuners or not. If you were to wrap sloppily enough, maybe one winding could slip off another, abruptly slacking the string slightly.
The end result isn't any better but changing strings is quicker and less hassle with locking tuners. That's the point of them.
@@adamski101 I agree. Quick string changes is what locking tuners provide (and they eliminate that sharp, pokey string end). They don't provide any side benefit to pitch stability over properly strung conventional tuners.
Thank you for showing how, i just bought a nice a fender guitar with locking tuner with it, some how I loosened the lucking on B sting tuner part and the string jumped cane off I freaking out did not know why, and forgive me for having no knowledge about it, I had been playing guitar for very long time but I never have guitar with locking tuner on it, beside, i’m a self taught, so it’s seems I didn’t have any progress whatsoever, most likely doesn’t go anywhere the way I wanted to be Richie Blackmore. Thank you 🙏🏾 for the teach
My very first time with locking tuners , string in , lock and tune stretch.... Boom Whammy Bound !
Bending a string can't cause it to "unwrap" at the post as this increases, not decreases, string tension. Just sayin'.
Really?
The fact that videos like this are required at all makes me despair for humanity.
Damn, I’ve only just saw this video 4 years later, and have been playing for about 2 years. I’ve been wondering how the frick to use the locking tuners, as I only just got my ernie ball majesty with locking tuners. This was one of the most helpful videos I’ve ever seen. Thank you, so much.
Good info on locking tuner style. Always keep in mind to do that. Salute 🎸
So why not just cut off the excess string to avoid wrapping around the post and going out of tune instead of buying locking tuners?
Youngest Grain the sting end would not stay in the post end. It would pull out the second you went to wind it up.
no actually I string my guitar like that all the time, its faster but less tuning stability
Daniel Springer bullshit. If you have zero slack, it pulls right out. Friction is what holds it in place on a non-locking tuner, and without any string wrap to create friction with the post, it comes right out.
you end up with about 1/2 a wind at the end of it, it works fine, don't believe it google it or try it for yourself.
Then what the heck is keeping it there? Maybe your tuners are slotted or something (like an old Fender), because that definitely doesn't work on a standard hole-through-post tuner. I've messed with a lot of guitars for over 35 years and never seen that work.
How do people fuck this up? Common sense..
people think the locks somehow "lock the tuning", like a lock nut or something.
"Common Sense" is an oxymoron, like "military intelligence"
Adam Youdell Two words combined that can't make sense
...Possibly I've seen too much. Hangar 18, I know too much.
Counting Sheeple *Marty Friedman shredding*
Great video. I love that guitar. I've never had locking tuners but now if I ever do I'll know. Thanks
Locking tuners do not keep your strings in tune. They are to make string changes quicker and less cumbersome.
Perhaps I phrased it incorrectly. It allows you to maintain tuning with less guitar string wrapped around the tuner post. And in some cases, where a vibrato arm is used without a locking nut, there's less chance of the string binding upon itself at the post. However, it doesn't lock tuning in just looping your string in the traditional manner. It just allows you to use less string winding which is more efficient when replacing strings. Strings can still bind up at the nut or bridge , which would cause your guitar to go out of tune when string bending.