Lock your Hubs 4WDing there is a hella marine connector and also there are options of nato connector (military) with solder connections too, just how we like them ;) I will have a look tomorrow as I know what I’m looking for.
I think you underestimated the length of your cable join with your heat shrink. I also put a longer length of heat shrink over the outside of both wires which covers both pieces once soldered to keep the wires together. I have mounted a small vice onto a 200mm square x 25mm (offcut from a benchtop) piece of chipboard especially for soldering and using inside when I'm not in the workshop outside. I have been using the heat shrink that is 3:1 reduction with glue included which I find is great for outdoors and 4WD stuff and its not that expensive from that site we all love to get cheap stuff from. You DO love that blowtorch don't you!.. I have a small butane heat torch that I use which has a flat bottom and stands upright and makes it much easier for a free hand and less burning of hairs on my fingers etc.. lol..... The trick I have learnt is to think what I am making/doing and then put the required amount of heat shrink on FIRST before any soldering or heating of other heat shrink happens. I would be putting the FUSE at the POWER SUPPLY end of the circuit NOT the appliance end.
I definitely underestimated the length of heat-shrink! I prefer the double walled heat shrink with the glue when I can get it, or have it handy. I like the idea about the table top vice for working indoors, I've been meaning to invest in some "helping hands" for soldering work. I usually just plug the TB directly into the PowerHub. I'm not sure how the Anderson output is fused, so I want a fuse as close to the output of the Powerhub as possible. And yes, I do like the Blowtorch!
If you are going to solder the cable into the Anderson connectors, its a good idea to tin the leads first (fill the bare wire with solder) . Just plunging the wire into the solder filled connector doesnt mean the is a full and proper connection to all the wires. I prefer to crimp, but then I have the proper tools to do it. (P.S. I am an Avionics tech, and do stuff like this for a living - )
Thanks for the input, I would have though capillary action should draw the solder up between the strands of copper, I might have to cut one up and do a comparison and see exactly how far the solder has worked its way up. For small solder connections I usually tin them. As you're an avionics tech, do you know of any technical papers that compare soldered vs crimped connections, for tensile and vibration?
Excellent, thanks Steve. I've often heard that solder wicks up the wire under the insulation and that makes the wire brittle just where the most bending will occur from vibrations...hence the advice to crimp rather than solder. I see though that a/ the heatshrink takes some of the stress out and b/ the Anderson connection is usually not fixed hard (e.g with a screw) to a solid part of the car which makes it a floppy rather than rigid connection, so not likely to vibrate. I've toyed with the idea of bolstering the stiffness at the joint with stiff wire or plastic under the heat shrink when one side is screwed/bolted to the vehicle frame. How much all this matters though I have no idea!
I've also heard about crimping vs soldering, with proponents from both sides. What I haven't seen is hard evidence either way, and would be really interested to read something like that.
Solder will do the job, in a couple of years of vibration get ratty. A good crimp will last life of the car. There is a reason solder is not used in mobile applications... Key point, GOOD crimp...
The heat has already affected the properties of the metal and the solder will eventually crack over time. The connection will eventually oxidize, heat up and break... The crimp makes the connection more flexible for environments where there is vibration or manipulation and does not affect the integrity of the cable by adding heat... That's the basis!
I don't like leaving my Travel buddy hooked to power all the time. I've had a couple times where the timer did not switch off and goes to Run. The first time this happened, I did not know. My Travel Buddy was on for a couple days before I realized it was still on. My 4wd was parked in garage for a couple days, when I got in I could smell something, when I checked out the back, I was horrified the Travel buddy was on, I unplugged, and always unplugged ever since. Few days later I did some tests to see if I could replicated the problem and it did it again. Honestly would have to be the biggest piece of crap I ever purchased, but it does cook a good Roast. So will continue using it, but I'll never leave the anderson plugged in.
G'day Simon...your video raises some interesting discussion points: 1. Why is there a need for a fuse in that line...when there should be a fuse close to the power supply (IE: on the line that has the other Anderson plug). I'm guessing because the other side has a fuse that is much heavier?? 2. Anderson plugs are great, but if the item being powered is likely to be a permanent (or semi permanent) connection, then the better method is to hardwire the item via a fuse board. Anderson plugs can (and DO) lose their integrity over time if they are not regularly disconnected and maintained...maybe a bit of dielectric grease for example. If permanently connected the spring-loaded "tangs" can lose their tension over time. 3. Okay, someone had to bring it up...soldering versus crimping!! Soldering is perfect for the splice you did (although I still don't see why there was a need for that inline fuse and I have seen too many melted inline fuses to ever want to use them again...it's midi fuses for me these days)....BUT soldering those Anderson lugs is a recipe for disaster. You said yourself, as you twisted the spliced wires together...that's a good MECHANICAL joint and then the solder just finishes the joint off. With the Anderson lugs being soldered, there is NO mechanical joint. Over time those joints WILL fail from vibration etc. This is the reason why such joints are ALWAYS crimped in the aircraft industry for example. 4. Given the small gauge of the cable being used, I would suggest that the Anderson "Power Pole" type connectors would have been a better choice. It is always best to try and match the gauge of the cable to the size of the lug it is going in to and then crimp the bejezzus out of it. Sorry if I'm coming across negative. I'm just a 65 year old clown who has learnt all these things from trial and error....especially ERROR. And now that I have a son in the RAAF doing avionics, he critiques all my work whenever he comes home. I have the ability to make him cry; just by showing him my self-taught "handiwork"...but it does all work (just not as neat as he'd like).
G'day Bill, thanks for taking the time to write such a comprehensive comment. The Travel Buddy is often plugged into my PowerHub, I'm not sure what the rating of the internal fuse/circuit breaker is, with the fuse located near the plug, it really doesn't matter what the fuse of the Anderson I plug into is rated. I agree, permanent wiring is always the preferable solution, though the travel buddy is going to be powered by the Zook, my LandCruiser and the PowerHub at camp, so I need a versatile solution, and all have an available Anderson to power it. As far as crimping vs soldering is concerned, I've heard opinions from both camps. What I haven't seen is solid evidence supporting either argument. Like a peer moderated SAE paper, or something similar. I might have to pull my finger out and settle it once and for all on video one of these days. I need to power multiple devices from each car/source of power, I need to run things like air compressors and 12v chargers, that draw considerably more current than the Travel Buddy, and while I agree the Anderson Pole connector, that are designed for lighter cables would be a better solution if the Travel Buddy was the only thing I was powering, it isn't. Sounds like we're both in the same boat mate, my son is a plumber, and just shakes his head at Dad's "workmanship" !
@LockyourHubs4WDing . Nha, nha, definitely not mate. I only crimp over 150 amps. But where do I start. Blade fuses there shit the housing gets hot and melts. It gets to a million digress here in Australia. Use Midi blocks. Different size wires recipe for disaster. The size of the knot was ridiculous. I'm not even sure how to address the heat shrink. That's why. Constructive criticism.
Midi is the wrong fuse for the application, the usual smallest Midi fuse is 30a, you'll burn out wiring inside the TB with a partial short before the fuse blows.
@LockyourHubs4WDing . Then if it's under 30 Amps, whatever you're running should be wired back to a small fuse panel / block. 100amp minimum. I'm assuming you're running other stuff as well. Everything except high current should be on a panel. I see this all the time 5s Anderson's hang off a battery. If it's clean and tidy, there's less chance of failure.
😮. I find it interesting that you make a video about something and dont use the proper tools, wire strippers, crimpers etc?? And heat shrink too short?? Come on mate.!
@@LockyourHubs4WDing No to crimp only…. But if your going to do a video, then your going to get some feedback. If your going to connect 2 wires, then know your lengths and shrink tube to cover the connection??! Don’t be a Hack ( blow torch.. really)?
NONONONONONO PLEASE GOD WILL PEOPLE STOP SOLDERING THEIR ANDERSON PLUGS!. Soldering copper joins and exposing them to moisture and dirt while also putting current through them (or not) will result in a massive shit show. The flux in the solder reacts with the copper and lead and H2O to create acids which corrode the copper and give you green death. If you want good joins use a copper crimping paste/mounting compound And crimp your connections. For Anderson's use those adjustable single tooth crimpers available on eBay for less than 50 bucks. No your uncle or best mate is wrong, don't solder shit that's exposed to moisture and dirt. I've had enough.
So I take it you're against soldering Anderson plugs? :) But seriously, what I haven't seen is evidence either way. A SAE paper or other reputable source siding one way or the other.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html this link covers some stuff that is useless to average 4wders but also things that are wildly valuable as well. The salt wicking test is interesting. My severe rage with solder in exposed conditions is from more than a decade as an industrial electrician and avid offroader. Where ever you find moisture minerals and tough conditions you are going to see bad corrosion in exposed electrical equipment.
Is there a better connector than an Anderson Plug for 4WD electrical?
Lock your Hubs 4WDing there is a hella marine connector and also there are options of nato connector (military) with solder connections too, just how we like them ;) I will have a look tomorrow as I know what I’m looking for.
Lock your Hubs 4WDing www.hellamarine.com/en/products/accessories/plugs/chrome-brass-plugs-and-sockets.html
Lock your Hubs 4WDing the nato plugs are usually 24v-28v dc which allows higher current loads, also dust and water proof, and screwed mating.
FYI. There are different size lugs available for the Anderson plugs so you can better match the lug to the wire size.
That's one of the reasons I used solder, though the 6GA was the smallest lug size Jaycar had in stock when I was there.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing ii sell 10/12awg kits on my website www.somervillemetalworks.com.au
I think you underestimated the length of your cable join with your heat shrink. I also put a longer length of heat shrink over the outside of both wires which covers both pieces once soldered to keep the wires together. I have mounted a small vice onto a 200mm square x 25mm (offcut from a benchtop) piece of chipboard especially for soldering and using inside when I'm not in the workshop outside. I have been using the heat shrink that is 3:1 reduction with glue included which I find is great for outdoors and 4WD stuff and its not that expensive from that site we all love to get cheap stuff from. You DO love that blowtorch don't you!.. I have a small butane heat torch that I use which has a flat bottom and stands upright and makes it much easier for a free hand and less burning of hairs on my fingers etc.. lol..... The trick I have learnt is to think what I am making/doing and then put the required amount of heat shrink on FIRST before any soldering or heating of other heat shrink happens. I would be putting the FUSE at the POWER SUPPLY end of the circuit NOT the appliance end.
I definitely underestimated the length of heat-shrink! I prefer the double walled heat shrink with the glue when I can get it, or have it handy.
I like the idea about the table top vice for working indoors, I've been meaning to invest in some "helping hands" for soldering work.
I usually just plug the TB directly into the PowerHub. I'm not sure how the Anderson output is fused, so I want a fuse as close to the output of the Powerhub as possible.
And yes, I do like the Blowtorch!
Am I seeing things, or did he push the connector pins into the housing upside down?
Nope, I was using it on Friday! Still working fine.
If you are going to solder the cable into the Anderson connectors, its a good idea to tin the leads first (fill the bare wire with solder) . Just plunging the wire into the solder filled connector doesnt mean the is a full and proper connection to all the wires. I prefer to crimp, but then I have the proper tools to do it.
(P.S. I am an Avionics tech, and do stuff like this for a living - )
Thanks for the input, I would have though capillary action should draw the solder up between the strands of copper, I might have to cut one up and do a comparison and see exactly how far the solder has worked its way up.
For small solder connections I usually tin them.
As you're an avionics tech, do you know of any technical papers that compare soldered vs crimped connections, for tensile and vibration?
Lock your Hubs 4WDing touche👍
Thanks mate! Just had a Travel Buddy arrive today and was wondering how to change over to an Anderson plug. Now I know!
Happy to help :)
keep the videos coming Anderson plug all day everyday. 8)
Thanks!
Thank you for the helpful video.
You're welcome!
Excellent, thanks Steve. I've often heard that solder wicks up the wire under the insulation and that makes the wire brittle just where the most bending will occur from vibrations...hence the advice to crimp rather than solder. I see though that a/ the heatshrink takes some of the stress out and b/ the Anderson connection is usually not fixed hard (e.g with a screw) to a solid part of the car which makes it a floppy rather than rigid connection, so not likely to vibrate. I've toyed with the idea of bolstering the stiffness at the joint with stiff wire or plastic under the heat shrink when one side is screwed/bolted to the vehicle frame. How much all this matters though I have no idea!
I've also heard about crimping vs soldering, with proponents from both sides. What I haven't seen is hard evidence either way, and would be really interested to read something like that.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing Yes, the theory is plausible but unproven as far as I know.
Solder will do the job, in a couple of years of vibration get ratty. A good crimp will last life of the car. There is a reason solder is not used in mobile applications... Key point, GOOD crimp...
The heat has already affected the properties of the metal and the solder will eventually crack over time. The connection will eventually oxidize, heat up and break... The crimp makes the connection more flexible for environments where there is vibration or manipulation and does not affect the integrity of the cable by adding heat... That's the basis!
Is it better to solder or crimp 3mm wire into an anderson plug? given its designed for 6mm wire?
You won't unfortunately get an effective crimp, so flood soldering with heat shrink afterward will be your best solution.
I don't like leaving my Travel buddy hooked to power all the time. I've had a couple times where the timer did not switch off and goes to Run. The first time this happened, I did not know. My Travel Buddy was on for a couple days before I realized it was still on. My 4wd was parked in garage for a couple days, when I got in I could smell something, when I checked out the back, I was horrified the Travel buddy was on, I unplugged, and always unplugged ever since. Few days later I did some tests to see if I could replicated the problem and it did it again. Honestly would have to be the biggest piece of crap I ever purchased, but it does cook a good Roast. So will continue using it, but I'll never leave the anderson plugged in.
Honestly, I haven't heard of that happening before. Contact TB as see if they can supply a replacement.
Good clip mate, reminds of how I do them. Cheers Steve
Thanks!
Gday, what diameter solder are you using in this video?
Hmmmm, I think it was 3.2mm....
G'day Simon...your video raises some interesting discussion points:
1. Why is there a need for a fuse in that line...when there should be a fuse close to the power supply (IE: on the line that has the other Anderson plug). I'm guessing because the other side has a fuse that is much heavier??
2. Anderson plugs are great, but if the item being powered is likely to be a permanent (or semi permanent) connection, then the better method is to hardwire the item via a fuse board. Anderson plugs can (and DO) lose their integrity over time if they are not regularly disconnected and maintained...maybe a bit of dielectric grease for example. If permanently connected the spring-loaded "tangs" can lose their tension over time.
3. Okay, someone had to bring it up...soldering versus crimping!! Soldering is perfect for the splice you did (although I still don't see why there was a need for that inline fuse and I have seen too many melted inline fuses to ever want to use them again...it's midi fuses for me these days)....BUT soldering those Anderson lugs is a recipe for disaster. You said yourself, as you twisted the spliced wires together...that's a good MECHANICAL joint and then the solder just finishes the joint off. With the Anderson lugs being soldered, there is NO mechanical joint. Over time those joints WILL fail from vibration etc. This is the reason why such joints are ALWAYS crimped in the aircraft industry for example.
4. Given the small gauge of the cable being used, I would suggest that the Anderson "Power Pole" type connectors would have been a better choice. It is always best to try and match the gauge of the cable to the size of the lug it is going in to and then crimp the bejezzus out of it.
Sorry if I'm coming across negative. I'm just a 65 year old clown who has learnt all these things from trial and error....especially ERROR. And now that I have a son in the RAAF doing avionics, he critiques all my work whenever he comes home. I have the ability to make him cry; just by showing him my self-taught "handiwork"...but it does all work (just not as neat as he'd like).
G'day Bill, thanks for taking the time to write such a comprehensive comment.
The Travel Buddy is often plugged into my PowerHub, I'm not sure what the rating of the internal fuse/circuit breaker is, with the fuse located near the plug, it really doesn't matter what the fuse of the Anderson I plug into is rated.
I agree, permanent wiring is always the preferable solution, though the travel buddy is going to be powered by the Zook, my LandCruiser and the PowerHub at camp, so I need a versatile solution, and all have an available Anderson to power it.
As far as crimping vs soldering is concerned, I've heard opinions from both camps. What I haven't seen is solid evidence supporting either argument. Like a peer moderated SAE paper, or something similar. I might have to pull my finger out and settle it once and for all on video one of these days.
I need to power multiple devices from each car/source of power, I need to run things like air compressors and 12v chargers, that draw considerably more current than the Travel Buddy, and while I agree the Anderson Pole connector, that are designed for lighter cables would be a better solution if the Travel Buddy was the only thing I was powering, it isn't.
Sounds like we're both in the same boat mate, my son is a plumber, and just shakes his head at Dad's "workmanship" !
Russell coit eat ya heart out 🤣
Ummmm, thanks! I think..... :)
How long will it take to cook a sunday roast in it now?
Not long after I hack a second heating element into it!
Lock your Hubs 4WDing I was thinking the same thing when I saw your breakdown ot the ovens, top and bottom elements wth a thermostat 👍
@@christurner68 Unfortunately Travel Buddy wouldn't sell me one when I asked! if you find their supplier though, let me know!
Lock your Hubs 4WDing was just about to ask you the same! Hmmm alibaba? Pretty shore we don’t make here unfortunately!
Lock your Hubs 4WDing chinahotbox.en.alibaba.com/productgrouplist-816924292/Flexible_Heater.html?spm=a2700.icbuShop.98.3.44fa3e5fdOKgqx
Hilarious mate.
Why is that? Please don't tell me you're one of these crimped or die fellas......
@LockyourHubs4WDing .
Nha, nha, definitely not mate.
I only crimp over 150 amps.
But where do I start.
Blade fuses there shit the housing gets hot and melts.
It gets to a million digress here in Australia.
Use Midi blocks.
Different size wires recipe for disaster.
The size of the knot was ridiculous.
I'm not even sure how to address the heat shrink.
That's why.
Constructive criticism.
Midi is the wrong fuse for the application, the usual smallest Midi fuse is 30a, you'll burn out wiring inside the TB with a partial short before the fuse blows.
@LockyourHubs4WDing .
Then if it's under 30 Amps, whatever you're running should be wired back to a small fuse panel / block. 100amp minimum.
I'm assuming you're running other stuff as well.
Everything except high current should be on a panel.
I see this all the time 5s Anderson's hang off a battery.
If it's clean and tidy, there's less chance of failure.
😊 Thank you
Welcome!
😮. I find it interesting that you make a video about something and dont use the proper tools, wire strippers, crimpers etc?? And heat shrink too short?? Come on mate.!
You're a crimper or nothing right?
@@LockyourHubs4WDing No to crimp only…. But if your going to do a video, then your going to get some feedback. If your going to connect 2 wires, then know your lengths and shrink tube to cover the connection??! Don’t be a Hack ( blow torch.. really)?
NONONONONONO PLEASE GOD WILL PEOPLE STOP SOLDERING THEIR ANDERSON PLUGS!.
Soldering copper joins and exposing them to moisture and dirt while also putting current through them (or not) will result in a massive shit show.
The flux in the solder reacts with the copper and lead and H2O to create acids which corrode the copper and give you green death.
If you want good joins use a copper crimping paste/mounting compound And crimp your connections.
For Anderson's use those adjustable single tooth crimpers available on eBay for less than 50 bucks.
No your uncle or best mate is wrong, don't solder shit that's exposed to moisture and dirt.
I've had enough.
So I take it you're against soldering Anderson plugs? :) But seriously, what I haven't seen is evidence either way. A SAE paper or other reputable source siding one way or the other.
@@LockyourHubs4WDing rbracing-rsr.com/wiring_ecu.html this link covers some stuff that is useless to average 4wders but also things that are wildly valuable as well. The salt wicking test is interesting. My severe rage with solder in exposed conditions is from more than a decade as an industrial electrician and avid offroader. Where ever you find moisture minerals and tough conditions you are going to see bad corrosion in exposed electrical equipment.