Thanks Mike for all the great knowledge you are passing on not only on the nuts and bolts but also the proper way to use tools and your patience and precision getting the job done right
Years ago I was fighting with installing wrist pins in a very cold garage. I was using ready rod and sockets and slowly but surely getting it done. My old friend shows up and takes the other wrist pin and warms it up in his hands. And it slides it right in! A good mentor can teach you a lot that you cant get from a manual. Thats what I like about watching your videos. Always learning something new. Thank you.
Howdy Mike, Once again = a most informative VIDEO & Thank YOU for naming the brand name ( JIM's) on the BUSHING Tool Much Appreciated COOP ................................
ELSDP-45 you’re not kidding about the small fortune in Jim tools! You can also check out I think it’s MBF Manufacturing. They make basically the same tools as jims just without the fancy laser engraving. However they don’t make all of the same tools so with some you’re still stuck buying the jims.
Many years ago, I had a boss who told me, "It's easy to make a small fortune in a motorcycle shop. Just invest a large one." Yes, good precision tools cost a lot to make and only the very dedicated can justify the expense of buying them. But, they're really a pleasure and usually necessary for doing a good job.
indeed ! a lot of money invested in the tools to do it right . next time i'm at my indy getting some work done i won't complain about how much he's charging me ! (i don't anyway he does a great job for way less than the dealer)
My brother in law, rest his soul, was a Shovelhead, Evo Lover. I called him Doctor Horsepower. He would love your videos, paid attention to the same details you do and made some great motors. Last two were big inch shovel head, street engines utilizing Delkron cases, S&S wheels, cylinders and heads. Both are still on the road and make people smile when the current owners ride by. These videos bring back great memories watching, listening to him while he built the engines. Thank You
Thanks for the videos Mike. Just a thought, for those of us who don't live in California, maybe take your cameraman with you to the swap meet and get some video. Just a thought.
@@pacificmike9501 I have an inner primary issue. The transmission bearing just falls out of the inner primary and the new bearing just slides in. The local HD dealers have told me the inner primary is obsolete and don't have any. Would you have an idea as to who might have one?
I’ve been using masking tape on a daily bases for many years now, but seeing you collect debits with it was a light bulb moment. Enjoying the build. Thanks
Some operations call for special tools. We've made substitutions over the years. But, if you're going to do it over and over again, the proper tool is usually worth the money.
Isn't it enjoyable and rewarding to do your own work. You and I are a lot alike in the mechanical sense only difference is your the harley mechanic and I was an auto mechanic for years and years. Well still am just on my own time now with small projects.But having all the tools and then knowing how to use them saves lots of money when repairs are needed. The details are what's important and patience. Very important to take one's time and do it right. I've got bushings coming for my shovel and tools. The tools are the expensive part and the work is quite easy. When that motor is all together and running strong and your the reason for it being that way it's a good feeling. Thanks for the video I may be doing this on my 73 FLH seems I'm doing everything else to it. These old bikes are so easy to work on it's most enjoyable. Anyway thanks again brother for the knowledge and video it helps mould me from auto to shovelhead mechanic when needed... ✌
Great job mike, put that bush in your home deep freeze for a few hours and it will just about drop in. I have done bushes half a metre in diameter, we use liquid nitrogen
Cool. I'm kinda primitive. You fell how much press there is and know all is right with the world. Not as precision as you are. I 've done a lot of hard races where I swell the part and drop the races in. Same thing.
Very good tutorial. I would like to do a similar job on an engine where the wrist pin goes through the small end of a steel conrod but there is no bushing. 2 small ends (out of 4) are used on my crank and have a ~ 0.04 mm bellmouth. I would like to ream these small end 0,05 mm oversize, maybe 0,1 mm if necessary. My concern has to do with the alignment of reamer. I have thought about 2 types of reamers: 1) one that looks like the one you suggest in your video (at 18 :07) with spiral flutes of straight flutes. It can only expand by ~ 1/100 of its diameter 2) another ones that use several blades that slide over a conical shaft. The first type of reamer looks interesting as it may be inserted into the small end, then the screw may be tightened. The reamer would in principle align itself automatically providing a moderate force is applied to the T-handle. The issue I see is that this is not really an adjustable reamer: as far as I know, this adjustable feature is provided to compensate for wear on the blades when the flutes have to be re-sharpened. So the goal is to ream to the nominal diameter of the reamer. If we use such reamer, when the screw is tightened, the reamer will expand from its center and so the flutes have a barrel profile. But it may still be good enough on short bores ( ~ 20 mm in my case) like the small end of a conrod. Do you have any experience on this? And if such reamer can be used on the small end of a conrod, can it be used to ream the bore of the wrist pin in the piston? There will of course be a barrel effect, but here again, as bore lengths are small ( ~ 15 mm in my case) it may still be acceptable. Il you have some experience on this could you please share it and explain how to do the job correctly? Regarding the second type of reamer, it seems to be that a jig is required to make sure the reamer will be aligned with the bore to ream. I have thought about a tool that would squeeze firmly the flanges of a small end and provide guidance for the reamer. Do you think it makes sense? Have you ever seen such tools?
Wow! This is a bit much for me. I'm familiar with standard procedures done on Harley Davidson motorcycles. When I get in over my head, I consult with machinists who are competent at the specific job. I don't know what you're working on or what the standard procedure would be. I'm sure it's available.
Hey Mike, I was taught to place the hole of the bushing so it's close to the center of the rod but it rotates and would line up after upper rod bushing is installed. It rotates into position. Don't get me wrong. You know a lot of stuff some of us who don't use our training for very long . I had a co-worker(2) man shop, who would tap the flywheels in the truing stand. You know, a knowledge hoarder. It's a cut throat business as a customer or a tech.
Yes, in a perfect world, that oil hole lines up just as you want it. Sometimes it does. When it doesn't, I open the hole with a dremel. Hoarding knowledge is a waste of knowledge someone could be using.
Thanks man this video really helped me out I am rebuilding my Toyota 22r and have never done it before I got one out with luck and try to heat press on and it did not work found your video and turned my bearings puller in to a press
@@pacificmike9501 thanks, your luck worked got them all pressed in the rods, all is good. Can I just hone the bushings to fit? They are floating pins, and super close for fit. I can't find a reamer online without buying a whole set, I don't want spend the money for em. Will honing to fit be ok? Very little needs to come off the bushings.
Hey Mike this question is going to be off topic for this video but pertains to a earlier video you did, installing the Shovelhead motor into the frame. Well I'm in the midst of just such a project, I just got my motor finished (78fx) and put it into a different swingarm frame than it came from the factory with, (long story) anyway it's a good unmolested stock FX frame of the similar year which I had blasted and power coated, all mounting points have been cleaned up of the powder coat and down to bare metal. Put the motor in the frame and torqued the rear mount bolts then checked the front to see if it needed shimming and it does, big time. I'm getting a gap of .042 on one side and .040 on the other. Heres my question since I've only done a few Shovelheads in my lifetime and that was many years ago, been riding the modern stuff since the inception of the EVO and later the TC but I got a older age crisis and wanted to do another Shovelhead. Seems to me that is a excessive amount of shimming, seems to me I remember from years ago doing this on a few different occasions and got like .004 or thereabouts, anyway much lower numbers. When you did your install video you didn't go into shimming and I'm wondering have you ever seen or would you consider a number like .042 normal and just go ahead and shim it that much or is something wrong somewhere possibly? Thanks!!
Don't know for sure. You gotta look it all over. A lot of the Shovelhead frames are about .040 low on the left side of the trans. Also, all of those motor bolts should be tightened down gradually, not the rear to see if the front raises or the front to see if the rear raises.
@@pacificmike9501 I did look it over pretty good before I installed it, or so I thought, nothing jumped out of the ordinary, made sure the mounting surfaces were clean. So I'll do it your way, tighten all 4 bolts gradually back and forth the check for gaps. I guess there is a lot of bad info floating around because I read several sources who I thought were creditable say tighten the rear to 35' lbs first then check the front and shim accordingly. Thanks for the input! Have a great time at the swapmeet! MLH&R
Hi Mike, I was slightly disappointed that you did NOT finish the ENLARGING of the oblong Bushing HOLE to ROUND ( and WHAT you used to accomplish this task ... a Drill Bit ? ) while on camera & the final fitting of the 2nd & 3rd pass of the tool (or the ADJUSTABLE tool ) that you mentioned Thanks for the VIDEO COOP ...............................
Hi again Mike Got alittle video request for you. Could you do one where you showcase your different tools for installment and removal, all the small guides or viselike dohickeys please. Dont have to promote anybody, but there is probably more then me out there that would benefit from your wisdom to prevent us from playing whackado with a socket to push stuff inn or out😂.
@@pacificmike9501 There is NOTHING "corny" about your EXCELLENT instructional manner!! I have to admit that I LMAO at the red shop rags and blue tape!! Glad to see that I am not the only one that does things like that. I am a "Car Guy" (at least at heart), not bikes. I just happened on this video while browsing re Replacing Connecting Rod Bushings. I am currently rebuilding a VW 1776cc engine for a 1927 BUGATTI Type 35C kit replica that I acquired a couple of years ago. But HEY, a connecting rod bushing is a connecting rod bushing!! Please note that I have SUBSCRIBED. Again - GREAT JOB and THANX!! Stay well, my friend!!
Hola Pacífic Mike, crees que si se calienta con soplete la biela, entre más fácil el buje? Quiero hacer ese mismo trabajo a mi VW Bug, pero los bujes que compré parecen muy grandes como que no van a entrar, y ya corroboré que si son los que debe de llevar, esa técnica de un tornillos con una tuerca está genial, ojalá me entiendas, Saludos desde México!!!
That is not a "screw with a nut," it is a special tool made for the purpose and the measurements are all correct for the job. Can't say how it would work on a VW. I think I might leave it to a properly equipped machine shop.
Thank You. I've known so many people from Mexico that managed to do things well pretty much on their own. I've seen Harleys from Mexico that had modified automotive parts that worked. I wish I could do more to help you.
Just an observation, maybe it was the camera, but the rod end looked to have a slight twist to the left. Not being critical because I'm getting a ton of knowledge here, just wondering.
Mike,. I truly enjoy your videos and I’m now a subscriber. I appreciate what you are doing. I am a full time machinist and Harley lover. I have one question for you concerning this video in particular and the process of replacing the wrist pin bushings. That is; why did you not perform this procedure when the engine was apart, so that you did not have to worry about the shavings from the reamer ? I don’t know if I missed something or not? Maybe you already answered this question? Thanks in advance mike Again,. LOVE the videos !! 👍🏽🇺🇸
Cool, and thank you. Rebuilding the lower end is quite expensive and on these older type motors, the lower end usually outlasts the upper end two or three to one. If there's no reason to take that lower end apart, you don't. Therefore, if you don't like the feel of that wrist pin in the bushing, mask everything else off and do it.
That's the way it's done when rebuilding rods and lower end. But when the lower end is tight and good and the wrist pin bushings need replaced, we do it like this.
Hey mike quick question I have a sifton reamer. I went through twice but I notice that putting the pin in it goes In nice from the side I started the reamer from but not from the other side. Do you run through twice from the same side? Love your videos. I’ve learned a ton from you. Thank you for all that you do👍👍👍
I use mostly Snap-On hand tools. That includes the torque wrenches. I use both 3/8 and 1/2" drive, depending on what I'm doing. I think my inch pound torque wrench goes up to about 1000. My 3/8, 100 and something foot lbs., the 1/2inch goes to about 125 ft. lbs.. I have a big one for doing flywheel assemblies. It's over 250.
Let the reamer and the bushing guide each other. I do have a fixture (It is a Ram Jett item, carried by most suppliers). Sometimes I use it, sometimes I don't.
Most of the "Aftermarket Harley Parts Suppliers" carry them. And, most of them have online catalogs. I don't normally plug brands or suppliers. But, this stuff is all readily available.
The reamer is an old Ram Jett product, but all of the major aftermarket suppliers carry them. Same thing with the line hone. I believe however, it is an "Eastern."
I have an Elektra year 1991 in an Electra glide, I have a problem that the oil pressure after 30 minutes of being at minimum falls, the light comes on and I changed the oil pump. The oil pump is changed and the same problem does not load the divers and I don't know what else to do, the pump retainer was changed and the pump is brand new and the same problem follows.
When I'm really not sure what's going on, I use a good mechanical oil gauge with a long hose to the place where the oil sending unit mounts. I tape the gauge onto the speedometer. Then I see if the "accurate" gauge readings match the manufacturer's specifications. Your service manual will have those numbers for you. Pressure at the beginning and pressure after the flow has split are what you're looking for.
Why would anyone go this deep and not replace those bushings? Seems awfully silly and lazy if you as me. Do you rebuild later motors Mike, i.e. Twin Cams? I have no doubt you’re more than capable, just curious.
Sure. But I really prefer the older engines. And I usually do stuff either only for myself or I get conned into helping someone. I'm retired and really want to start on another bike for myself. That is my goal in retirement. UA-cam keeps me in touch with people. I miss my old customers.
so could you also do this when you had it all apart, and before you put the cases together? Or is there a reason you waited to do this after it was together??
Well, yes and no. The flywheel assembly was a good unit and didn't require disassembly. So, there was no way to hold the rods while replacing the wrist pin bushings.
Without an exploritory, no one could answer that. Evos used to need base gasket replacements at about 40m miles. We'd open them up, ball hone the cylinders, hand-lap the valves and, other than replacing the valve lifters in another 30 or 40 thousand miles, they were good for about 100,000 after that. But, there are so many variables. You just can't tell.
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
You are the Bob Ross of motorcycle repair
Thank you.
Funny...I have been thinking the same thing. Mike has a very relaxed, but thorough, way of presenting his work. I enjoy really his approach.
You’re the bob ross of mechanics
Thank you.
Love it! Lol
Thanks Mike for all the great knowledge you are passing on not only on the nuts and bolts but also the proper way to use tools and your patience and precision getting the job done right
Thank you.
Years ago I was fighting with installing wrist pins in a very cold garage. I was using ready rod and sockets and slowly but surely getting it done. My old friend shows up and takes the other wrist pin and warms it up in his hands. And it slides it right in!
A good mentor can teach you a lot that you cant get from a manual. Thats what I like about watching your videos. Always learning something new. Thank you.
Thank You. You know, I learn the same way.
Howdy Mike,
Once again = a most informative VIDEO
& Thank YOU for naming the brand name ( JIM's) on the BUSHING Tool
Much Appreciated
COOP
................................
My pleasure!!
THANK YOU...for sharing. You can have a small fortune in Jim's tools but they sure make the job a lot faster and nicer. Gary from N.E. Oh.
ELSDP-45 you’re not kidding about the small fortune in Jim tools! You can also check out I think it’s MBF Manufacturing. They make basically the same tools as jims just without the fancy laser engraving. However they don’t make all of the same tools so with some you’re still stuck buying the jims.
Many years ago, I had a boss who told me, "It's easy to make a small fortune in a motorcycle shop. Just invest a large one." Yes, good precision tools cost a lot to make and only the very dedicated can justify the expense of buying them. But, they're really a pleasure and usually necessary for doing a good job.
indeed ! a lot of money invested in the tools to do it right . next time i'm at my indy getting some work done i won't complain about how much he's charging me !
(i don't anyway he does a great job for way less than the dealer)
My brother in law, rest his soul, was a Shovelhead, Evo Lover. I called him Doctor Horsepower. He would love your videos, paid attention to the same details you do and made some great motors. Last two were big inch shovel head, street engines utilizing Delkron cases, S&S wheels, cylinders and heads. Both are still on the road and make people smile when the current owners ride by. These videos bring back great memories watching, listening to him while he built the engines. Thank You
Sorry for your loss. Thank you for sharing his memory.
Thanks for the videos Mike. Just a thought, for those of us who don't live in California, maybe take your cameraman with you to the swap meet and get some video. Just a thought.
I second the motion.
Motioned a third my good Sirs.
Maybe we can try that. Why am I enjoying being "Ganged up on?"
Mike, it’s because your Channel is really good (much better than you realize) so we therefore want all we can get. Pretty simple really. 👍🏻
What a nice thing to say. Thank you. It makes us want to do more and better. Please be patient. We'll get there in time.
Thanks mate these videos are so help full im about to do my first Evo engine
Glad I could help
I just inherited a 1996 Road King. It has had 3 total speedometer on it. With a grand total of 200,000 miles on it.
Wow. That is a nice motorcycle.
@@pacificmike9501 my father took great care of it. Your videos are very informative.
@@pacificmike9501 I have an inner primary issue. The transmission bearing just falls out of the inner primary and the new bearing just slides in. The local HD dealers have told me the inner primary is obsolete and don't have any. Would you have an idea as to who might have one?
I’ve been using masking tape on a daily bases for many years now, but seeing you collect debits with it was a light bulb moment.
Enjoying the build.
Thanks
Thank You.
Loved it...wish I could have seen the final finishing....I am doing a 20r...first time fitting wrist pin bushings...once again thankyou
You can do it!
I agree, we want to see the whole process, using the adjustable reamer.
It was just "DANDY" lmao,,,i guess for a lack of a better word,, good informative video Mike,,keep'em coming
Thank you. Yah, I'm corny. Somehow, it just comes out that way.
Wonderful pédagogue Mike
Thank You.
Great videos I like the pace and explanations of how to. More specialty tools needed than I thought there would be.
Some operations call for special tools. We've made substitutions over the years. But, if you're going to do it over and over again, the proper tool is usually worth the money.
Isn't it enjoyable and rewarding to do your own work. You and I are a lot alike in the mechanical sense only difference is your the harley mechanic and I was an auto mechanic for years and years. Well still am just on my own time now with small projects.But having all the tools and then knowing how to use them saves lots of money when repairs are needed. The details are what's important and patience. Very important to take one's time and do it right. I've got bushings coming for my shovel and tools. The tools are the expensive part and the work is quite easy. When that motor is all together and running strong and your the reason for it being that way it's a good feeling. Thanks for the video I may be doing this on my 73 FLH seems I'm doing everything else to it. These old bikes are so easy to work on it's most enjoyable. Anyway thanks again brother for the knowledge and video it helps mould me from auto to shovelhead mechanic when needed... ✌
Thank You. We're in agreement in so many ways. I truly appreciate your kind words.
Another great video. Thank you Mike.
Thank you.
Thanks Guy.
You're welcome.
Thank you for all the valuable info. You have helped me so much.. Thank you
Thank You. That's wonderful to hear.
Good class today. Thank you
Thank you.
👍🏻❤️👍🏻❤️👍🏻 Good job brother.
Thanks 👍
Great video.
Thank you.
thank you Mike Great video
Thank you.
Thanks for the info,you make it look so easy
Take it slow and enjoy it. If you mess up a wrist pin bushing, they aren't that expensive. You just go buy another one.
Good stuff! About to do the same on my 2006 Twin Cam.
Right on!
I watch all your UA-cam great work learn a lot 👍😃
Thank you.
Great job mike, put that bush in your home deep freeze for a few hours and it will just about drop in.
I have done bushes half a metre in diameter, we use liquid nitrogen
Cool. I'm kinda primitive. You fell how much press there is and know all is right with the world. Not as precision as you are. I 've done a lot of hard races where I swell the part and drop the races in. Same thing.
Cheers Mike!
Thank you.
Great video . Thanks
Glad you enjoyed it
Great videos Mike
Thank You.
Another top video .thanks
Thank you.
The Bob Ross of motor building.
Thank you.
Very good tutorial.
I would like to do a similar job on an engine where the wrist pin goes through the small end of a steel conrod but there is no bushing.
2 small ends (out of 4) are used on my crank and have a ~ 0.04 mm bellmouth. I would like to ream these small end 0,05 mm oversize, maybe 0,1 mm if necessary.
My concern has to do with the alignment of reamer. I have thought about 2 types of reamers:
1) one that looks like the one you suggest in your video (at 18 :07) with spiral flutes of straight flutes. It can only expand by ~ 1/100 of its diameter
2) another ones that use several blades that slide over a conical shaft.
The first type of reamer looks interesting as it may be inserted into the small end, then the screw may be tightened. The reamer would in principle align itself automatically providing a moderate force is applied to the T-handle. The issue I see is that this is not really an adjustable reamer: as far as I know, this adjustable feature is provided to compensate for wear on the blades when the flutes have to be re-sharpened. So the goal is to ream to the nominal diameter of the reamer. If we use such reamer, when the screw is tightened, the reamer will expand from its center and so the flutes have a barrel profile. But it may still be good enough on short bores ( ~ 20 mm in my case) like the small end of a conrod. Do you have any experience on this?
And if such reamer can be used on the small end of a conrod, can it be used to ream the bore of the wrist pin in the piston? There will of course be a barrel effect, but here again, as bore lengths are small ( ~ 15 mm in my case) it may still be acceptable.
Il you have some experience on this could you please share it and explain how to do the job correctly?
Regarding the second type of reamer, it seems to be that a jig is required to make sure the reamer will be aligned with the bore to ream. I have thought about a tool that would squeeze firmly the flanges of a small end and provide guidance for the reamer.
Do you think it makes sense?
Have you ever seen such tools?
Wow! This is a bit much for me. I'm familiar with standard procedures done on Harley Davidson motorcycles. When I get in over my head, I consult with machinists who are competent at the specific job. I don't know what you're working on or what the standard procedure would be. I'm sure it's available.
Very nice
Thank you.
Thanks for that class lol
Glad you liked it.
Hey Mike, I was taught to place the hole of the bushing so it's close to the center of the rod but it rotates and would line up after upper rod bushing is installed. It rotates into position. Don't get me wrong. You know a lot of stuff some of us who don't use our training for very long . I had a co-worker(2) man shop, who would tap the flywheels in the truing stand. You know, a knowledge hoarder. It's a cut throat business as a customer or a tech.
Yes, in a perfect world, that oil hole lines up just as you want it. Sometimes it does. When it doesn't, I open the hole with a dremel. Hoarding knowledge is a waste of knowledge someone could be using.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks Mike. You are correct about the knowledge . It is meant to be shared. All that can help is probably good.
Great video!
Thank you.
Thanks, top
Thank you.
Thanks man this video really helped me out I am rebuilding my Toyota 22r and have never done it before I got one out with luck and try to heat press on and it did not work found your video and turned my bearings puller in to a press
Cool.
I use a addapter on drill to ream
Okay.
I gotta do 8 of these on a motor. I already removed the old ones, just gotta put the new ones in and reem... wish me luck.
Good luck.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks, your luck worked got them all pressed in the rods, all is good. Can I just hone the bushings to fit? They are floating pins, and super close for fit. I can't find a reamer online without buying a whole set, I don't want spend the money for em. Will honing to fit be ok? Very little needs to come off the bushings.
Hey Mike this question is going to be off topic for this video but pertains to a earlier video you did, installing the Shovelhead motor into the frame. Well I'm in the midst of just such a project, I just got my motor finished (78fx) and put it into a different swingarm frame than it came from the factory with, (long story) anyway it's a good unmolested stock FX frame of the similar year which I had blasted and power coated, all mounting points have been cleaned up of the powder coat and down to bare metal. Put the motor in the frame and torqued the rear mount bolts then checked the front to see if it needed shimming and it does, big time. I'm getting a gap of .042 on one side and .040 on the other. Heres my question since I've only done a few Shovelheads in my lifetime and that was many years ago, been riding the modern stuff since the inception of the EVO and later the TC but I got a older age crisis and wanted to do another Shovelhead. Seems to me that is a excessive amount of shimming, seems to me I remember from years ago doing this on a few different occasions and got like .004 or thereabouts, anyway much lower numbers. When you did your install video you didn't go into shimming and I'm wondering have you ever seen or would you consider a number like .042 normal and just go ahead and shim it that much or is something wrong somewhere possibly? Thanks!!
Don't know for sure. You gotta look it all over. A lot of the Shovelhead frames are about .040 low on the left side of the trans. Also, all of those motor bolts should be tightened down gradually, not the rear to see if the front raises or the front to see if the rear raises.
@@pacificmike9501 I did look it over pretty good before I installed it, or so I thought, nothing jumped out of the ordinary, made sure the mounting surfaces were clean. So I'll do it your way, tighten all 4 bolts gradually back and forth the check for gaps. I guess there is a lot of bad info floating around because I read several sources who I thought were creditable say tighten the rear to 35' lbs first then check the front and shim accordingly. Thanks for the input! Have a great time at the swapmeet! MLH&R
Hi Mike,
I was slightly disappointed that you did NOT finish the ENLARGING of the oblong Bushing HOLE to ROUND ( and WHAT you used to accomplish this task ... a Drill Bit ? ) while on camera & the final fitting of the 2nd & 3rd pass of the tool (or the ADJUSTABLE tool ) that you mentioned
Thanks for the VIDEO
COOP
...............................
Sorry 'bout that. I generally use a Dremel for stuff like that. I do it automatically and forget to mention it.
Hi again Mike
Got alittle video request for you. Could you do one where you showcase your different tools for installment and removal, all the small guides or viselike dohickeys please. Dont have to promote anybody, but there is probably more then me out there that would benefit from your wisdom to prevent us from playing whackado with a socket to push stuff inn or out😂.
Okay. I'll try to show them better as I use them.
Awesome video Mike! Maybe on another video show the final cut with the reamer and finishing honing! What do you use for the final finish? Thanks a lot
We show it on some of our latest videos. I use a 1" ball hone.
Thanks!
GREAT VIDEO!!! Thanx for not using a lot of #$^&%$ language and playing cheesy "background" music!!
Thank You. We try to present the material. I'm sure I get a little corny sometimes.
@@pacificmike9501 There is NOTHING "corny" about your EXCELLENT instructional manner!! I have to admit that I LMAO at the red shop rags and blue tape!! Glad to see that I am not the only one that does things like that. I am a "Car Guy" (at least at heart), not bikes. I just happened on this video while browsing re Replacing Connecting Rod Bushings. I am currently rebuilding a VW 1776cc engine for a 1927 BUGATTI Type 35C kit replica that I acquired a couple of years ago. But HEY, a connecting rod bushing is a connecting rod bushing!! Please note that I have SUBSCRIBED. Again - GREAT JOB and THANX!! Stay well, my friend!!
Hola Pacífic Mike, crees que si se calienta con soplete la biela, entre más fácil el buje? Quiero hacer ese mismo trabajo a mi VW Bug, pero los bujes que compré parecen muy grandes como que no van a entrar, y ya corroboré que si son los que debe de llevar, esa técnica de un tornillos con una tuerca está genial, ojalá me entiendas, Saludos desde México!!!
That is not a "screw with a nut," it is a special tool made for the purpose and the measurements are all correct for the job. Can't say how it would work on a VW. I think I might leave it to a properly equipped machine shop.
@@pacificmike9501 Muchas gracias por el tip jejejjee y gracias por contestar, tu canal está muy padre!
Thank You. I've known so many people from Mexico that managed to do things well pretty much on their own. I've seen Harleys from Mexico that had modified automotive parts that worked. I wish I could do more to help you.
Just an observation, maybe it was the camera, but the rod end looked to have a slight twist to the left. Not being critical because I'm getting a ton of knowledge here, just wondering.
Just an illusion.
Heck yea 🖖🏽👍🏼👍🏼✌🏽
Thank you.
Mike,.
I truly enjoy your videos and I’m now a subscriber. I appreciate what you are doing. I am a full time machinist and Harley lover. I have one question for you concerning this video in particular and the process of replacing the wrist pin bushings. That is; why did you not perform this procedure when the engine was apart, so that you did not have to worry about the shavings from the reamer ?
I don’t know if I missed something or not? Maybe you already answered this question? Thanks in advance mike
Again,. LOVE the videos !! 👍🏽🇺🇸
Cool, and thank you. Rebuilding the lower end is quite expensive and on these older type motors, the lower end usually outlasts the upper end two or three to one. If there's no reason to take that lower end apart, you don't. Therefore, if you don't like the feel of that wrist pin in the bushing, mask everything else off and do it.
Pacific Mike but I thought that was the FULL EVO engine rebuild mike ? My mistake. Thanks for the reply.
Mike , is there any reason why you couldn’t install the wrist pin bushings before you install the connecting rods ?
That's the way it's done when rebuilding rods and lower end. But when the lower end is tight and good and the wrist pin bushings need replaced, we do it like this.
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Thank You.
Mike? Why didn't you ream the bushing with the crank out of the case? Isn't that safer?
Yes, it would be. It's also quite expensive. At that point, it would be an entire rebuild.
do you use that brush hone for finishing?
That is a ceramic ball hone. And, yes.
Hey mike quick question I have a sifton reamer. I went through twice but I notice that putting the pin in it goes In nice from the side I started the reamer from but not from the other side. Do you run through twice from the same side? Love your videos. I’ve learned a ton from you. Thank you for all that you do👍👍👍
Sounds like it's not straight. Is the reamer worn? I don't want to make a long distant judgement. Something is odd.
what brand of torque wrenches do you use and what ranges are in your arsenal?
I use mostly Snap-On hand tools. That includes the torque wrenches. I use both 3/8 and 1/2" drive, depending on what I'm doing. I think my inch pound torque wrench goes up to about 1000. My 3/8, 100 and something foot lbs., the 1/2inch goes to about 125 ft. lbs.. I have a big one for doing flywheel assemblies. It's over 250.
I'm stuck in jersey ,can't make the swap meet . Pick up a pan head for me though .
Sure. Maybe you'll make it here sometime. There must be some great old swap meets back there.
Mike, I love your videos. What size and grit hone do you use?
It is 1" ball hone. I don't remember what grit.
Great video. How do you keep the the reamer 90 degrees from the rod?Is the reamer self aligning? Thanks
Let the reamer and the bushing guide each other. I do have a fixture (It is a Ram Jett item, carried by most suppliers). Sometimes I use it, sometimes I don't.
Wouldn't it have been easier to do that wrist pin bushing before you closed the case up ?
Yes.
Where do you get these special tools at and how much do they cost? Thank you,
Steve
Most of the "Aftermarket Harley Parts Suppliers" carry them. And, most of them have online catalogs. I don't normally plug brands or suppliers. But, this stuff is all readily available.
Any chance you could post the manufacturer and part numbers for reamer and the hone? Thank you
The reamer is an old Ram Jett product, but all of the major aftermarket suppliers carry them. Same thing with the line hone. I believe however, it is an "Eastern."
What size is the hone
I have an Elektra year 1991 in an Electra glide, I have a problem that the oil pressure after 30 minutes of being at minimum falls, the light comes on and I changed the oil pump.
The oil pump is changed and the same problem does not load the divers and I don't know what else to do, the pump retainer was changed and the pump is brand new and the same problem follows.
When I'm really not sure what's going on, I use a good mechanical oil gauge with a long hose to the place where the oil sending unit mounts. I tape the gauge onto the speedometer. Then I see if the "accurate" gauge readings match the manufacturer's specifications. Your service manual will have those numbers for you. Pressure at the beginning and pressure after the flow has split are what you're looking for.
Why would anyone go this deep and not replace those bushings? Seems awfully silly and lazy if you as me. Do you rebuild later motors Mike, i.e. Twin Cams? I have no doubt you’re more than capable, just curious.
Sure. But I really prefer the older engines. And I usually do stuff either only for myself or I get conned into helping someone. I'm retired and really want to start on another bike for myself. That is my goal in retirement. UA-cam keeps me in touch with people. I miss my old customers.
You wouldn’t happen to have that other set of evo cases laying around would you?
Nope. Not my parts. He traded them off to another friend.
Did you hone the bushings after reaming? If so, what hone did you use? I'm getting ready to do this job on an ironhead.
I used a ball hone. Not too coarse.
Show it on the video
so could you also do this when you had it all apart, and before you put the cases together? Or is there a reason you waited to do this after it was together??
Well, yes and no. The flywheel assembly was a good unit and didn't require disassembly. So, there was no way to hold the rods while replacing the wrist pin bushings.
I was wondering the same thing. Seems like it could have been done before the flywheels were pressed into the case.
93k on a 92 1340 That still runs good, can it last a while longer? Thanks
Without an exploritory, no one could answer that. Evos used to need base gasket replacements at about 40m miles. We'd open them up, ball hone the cylinders, hand-lap the valves and, other than replacing the valve lifters in another 30 or 40 thousand miles, they were good for about 100,000 after that. But, there are so many variables. You just can't tell.
What size hone did you use?
It is a specific "one pass" reamer, I believe it was made by Jim's Machine.
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Thank You.
@@pacificmike9501you’re welcome brother! Keep’m coming!
Particles on the rag. EEEW..........
Better on the rag than in the motor. I simply remove the rags carefully and dispose of them.