I'm absolutely loving watching this series on Evo's. I own 2, a 85 FXRS and a 96 Road King. Wish I could find someone here in north central Pa that has the love that you do for these older engines. Thanks for putting it out there for us to see. Hard to find a good Evo guy to pick there brain.
Boy I’m learning how to do a lot by watching the master on this moter . You do know if it wasn’t for you my bike would still be sitting thanks for being like me doing it right !!!
I’ve commented before, but watching a true master and artisan at his craft is truly a gift to the viewing public. I’m a fellow gear head, although I’m a maintenance mechanic now, I got away from dealing with the customer side of being a mechanic. Your approach to doing a job correctly cannot be appreciated enough. I’m glad there are guys out there like you live their passion and are gracious enough to share it with us. Thank you.
I have a Korean junk RevTech Evo that is in my shop now. The needle bearings in the rear exh lifter failed which chewed up the lifter, cam, oil pump, cam chest bearings, destroyed a lifter block, cylinders, and pistons. I found a loose roller on the front intake as well... Other than that everything else looks fine.
Mike I have a 1990 fatboy 1340 original case compression test shows 167 psi on front 169psi o. Rear cylinder I was told it has an ev46 cam I'm I stalling lifters I chose a set.of 33-5353 tappers. I do not have the alignment tool also bike has Rivera ajustable chromoly push rods that look to be in great shape my question to you is the 33-5353 tapper a good choice? Also it is the HL2T kit will this work out or should I change the pushrods and get the alignment tool before I do the job?
I'd have to read their literature. Most aftermarket lifters are way better than the originals. I still read instructions. I can't keep all that data in my head.
The adjustment is figured by the manufacturer for how much the lifter must be compressed. You simply have to combine what the lifters require with the amount of turns to extend the pushrods (number of threads per inch).
Thanks for another great video. I'm curious about your opinion on using an oil pressure gauge instead of the sensor. And where to install it, sensor hole or the lifter screen plug. Im working on a clean Evo-Chopper and want to skip as much electrics as possible. Thanks from Sweden!
Hey Mike, I will be doing the lifters on my 87 evo in a few days as time permits. Do I need to let the lifters sit in motor oil prior to installing? I will be leaving the bike sit thru the winter, unless Texas gets a really nice day or two before spring. This is my first harley so I thank for any help you can share with me. fred
The lifters should come "preoiled." Just remember not to immediately rotate the engine after adjusting each pushrod. Wait for each lifter to bleed down before rotating the engine to adjust the next lifter. Remember, after letting the bike sit all winter, be sure and put a pan under it for your startup in the Spring.
what a good content mike, I'm from Chile and I've been watching your videos for a while. you explain everything very well, you are very good at doing this job, thanks for showing all this. I am rebuilding my fxlr 1992 and you help me a lot with some doubts that I had. Could you tell me what was the torque you used in Valve Lifters please? thanks Mike
I try not to give answers on things you could easily look up in a service manual. But, something struck a nerve. I know that's a 1/4 x 20 bolt threaded into aluminum (I assume you're speaking of "tappet guide bolts"). This should be, according to Harley's usual spec, 90-120 inch pounds. But I found an incorrect number in a service manual. 90-120 inch pounds is correct for the tappet guide bolts on a 1992 Harley Davidson Evo (Big Twin) engine.
I'm sorry if you covered it in another video and I just haven't gotten to it. But do you have any recommendation on aftermarket lifters? I'm looking at fueling or S&S.
Hi Mike, great videos, had my evo rebuild and now getting heavy oil leak from sprocket shaft bearing seal, running open belt so seal spring is on inside, would appreciate your input
Did you replace the spacer with the seal? If not, the spacer gats a groove worn in it from the seal. You install a new seal and it doesn't fit the same. That's what it sounds like.
Okay I have to ask the question. Why are the locator tools better than just the four bolts that belong in the lifter blocks? Wouldn't they line it up properly?
I'm sorry I didn't do a better job of showing the tools. They are long and have a precision made taper on them. The holes in the lifter blocks are fairly large. The tools center them up very well. Then, the same tools are useful for installing other things, like Twin Cam oil pumps.
Hi, I enjoy watching and learning wrenching ,just one question. Why do you need an alignment tool for the tappet blocks ,when you can just use the original fasteners?
Hi Mike, I have scoured my J & P CYCLES catalog pretty thoroughly & can not LOCATE the Lifter-Block ALIGNMENT Tool(s) that you are using on both the EVO & SHOVEL-Head assembly Any idea what brand name they were SOLD under ? or where I could locate a set of them ? Thanks for the VIDEOS COOP ..............................................
I got in the habit doing Evos. It is "believed" the tappet rollers will line up more accurately with the cam, on an Evo, this way. It really is easier to get the whole thing set up this way. But, it's a good question.
Hey mike thanks. I have a question... Can you install the lifters 180 degrees out? And if the lifter has no oil will it be weak when you go to adjust the pushrods. 3 of 4 of mine i had to wait 10 minutes each to bleed down and the last one i put the 24 flats on and almost immediately i could turn the pushrod by hand.
They do tend to vary. Because you said "24 flats," I could assume you're working on a Shovelhead. If it has stock lifters, the holes in the lifter bodies must be turned "in" or, toward each other, assuming they are stock type Shovelhead lifters. If they aren't, they're Evos or Twin Cams, then the rule no longer applies.
@@pacificmike9501 the 24 flats comes from my big dog service manual. The motor is all s&s 107 evo style. All parts are s&s. I have heard 3.5 turns and i didnt see a pushrod adjustment in your evo engine rebuild series. Am i doing it wrong
If you're following your service manual, you've got it right (right service manual for your motor). You've "heard" 3.5 turns? You need to know what's in your motor. If you bought it new, you know its history. Sometimes it's very difficult to figure out what you have, but, well worth the effort.
Hey we need advice on a1995wide glide brakes on front . In other words you are not getting fluid thru lines. Master cylinder works perfect sooo????? Thanks LB( Noni)
Sometimes, you get bubbles in there that just get stuck. Try tapping on the lines everywhere there is a bend. Don't beat on them, but tap with a wrench. Make sure the master cylinder is level. Alot of the time a "Mighty-Vac" or similar vacuum pump is the solution. Another thing to try is a rubber band or bungee cord holding the brake lever against the grip. Leave it overnight and release it in the morning.
On an Evo you can run the engine with the oil filter off after changing the oil to clean the bottom of the cases out. Just keep adding oil to the oil tank until it comes out perfectly clean.
It depends on the cases you're using or oil pump, again, where it goes. It is most likely a 1/8 pipe thread and therefore, go to the hardware or auto parts store and get a 1/8 pipe plug. Don't let the description confuse you.
You might want to check your cam gear and pinion gear to be sure they are right for the bike. Service manual covers this. I don't know what you have or what you installed. Too much noise, time to look it over.
Thank You. I didn't like the way it felt. I went in and "talked" with everyone present. This bike is a very personal unit and I don't share much about her internals. That motor is where I experiment.
Sorry. I thought you meant my Shovelhead. This Evo motor had massive "bad luck." It started with lifters coming apart and went worse from there. Then there was a motor to replace it and it wasn't installed properly. It got problems right away. I mixed the two motors together, using all the good stuff, and there it is.
Just got 1987 Electra glide an has horrible tick an the shop that serviced bike told me they have a high revving cam in them and at the loud tic was normal but it really loud an bike has a lot of miles idk how many
no Thread sealer or glue... okay it should be fine i think... i like the blue thread sealer because you have no lock washers on these bolts... i just think it won't hurt...
They had oil in them. Before starting the engine, I rotate to pump the lifters full. I thought I explained that in the series where I built the engine.
I generally soak them first. Then I install them. Then there is no doubt they have oil in them and you don't have to wait for them to pump up. It's really easier with an electric starter, to spin the engine with the spark plugs out to make sure they're happy first.
Well, is it a cast iron cylinder, an aluminum cylinder? Is it a cast iron head or aluminum head? What are you trying to do? Is the cylinder and head on or off? Can these items be soaked?
hi . can anyone please tell me why my evo motors long studs that the barrel goes over are hollow with threads inside for the head bolts to tighten onto . the motor is in a custom chopper. nothing is standard on this bike.
The nuts are closed on the top. The studs are not hollow, they are "stretch studs." This is unless you have something truly unique. I think you're mixing some definitions. Be sure you torque things as per the manufacturer.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks mike for replying to my question. My head bolts are not like yours on the evo motor. You call yours nuts because they are hollow . My cylinder head bolts are actualy solid bolts because the long studs that come from the crank casing are hollow at the top with threads inside them to receive the head bolts.. I'm talking about the long studs that the piston cylinder slides over are hollow . and the head bolts (which are proper bolts) tighten into these studs that have threads on the inside . It's very different to your evo motors that you work on.. Do you know of an evo motor that has such a design that I'm talking about. ? .
Love your videos! You are literally the Bob Ross of Harley Engines.
Thank You.
No Wife... no wonder your so cool calm and collected.
I don't know. I know guys who married the right woman for them, and they're quite happy. To each his own. This is not a marriage counseling channel.
Are you going to work on that stupid engine all day ? Are you listening to me ? ans.Yes and No .
I'm absolutely loving watching this series on Evo's. I own 2, a 85 FXRS and a 96 Road King. Wish I could find someone here in north central Pa that has the love that you do for these older engines. Thanks for putting it out there for us to see. Hard to find a good Evo guy to pick there brain.
Wow. I still look at an Evo as pretty modern stuff. I guess, if everyone is riding new bikes, Evos are old. Thank You.
WOW I own a 1985 FXRS and a 1996 Electraglide Ultra Classic! How cool is that !?
@@richardcrouse9074 I have a 99 Softail Custom with FL style Fenders runs Great.
Boy I’m learning how to do a lot by watching the master on this moter . You do know if it wasn’t for you my bike would still be sitting thanks for being like me doing it right !!!
Glad to help
I’ve commented before, but watching a true master and artisan at his craft is truly a gift to the viewing public. I’m a fellow gear head, although I’m a maintenance mechanic now, I got away from dealing with the customer side of being a mechanic. Your approach to doing a job correctly cannot be appreciated enough. I’m glad there are guys out there like you live their passion and are gracious enough to share it with us. Thank you.
And, I think being a maintenance mechanic is super cool because it usually takes in such a variety of stuff, basically, whatever comes up. Thank You.
George's Garage has some good tools. George is a one man show. Good tools, good service, quick, like George.
Yes. Thank You.
You're like the Mr. Rogers of old school Harley mechanics. I appreciate your kind, positive attitude and clean, clear language. 👍
Wow, thanks
Love the detail Mike. Keep up the great work.
Thanks, will do!
I m from Bavarian Germany i love your Cannel i can learn English and repair my 79 1340 Shovel FXWG you speek so easy i m so happy thanks
Thank you. We try to please.
I have a Korean junk RevTech Evo that is in my shop now. The needle bearings in the rear exh lifter failed which chewed up the lifter, cam, oil pump, cam chest bearings, destroyed a lifter block, cylinders, and pistons. I found a loose roller on the front intake as well... Other than that everything else looks fine.
Lane Johnson ouch
Sad story. Sorry 'bout that.
That really sucks
Bob Ross of Harley’s!
Thank You.
Damn, Sam, that was awesome! Thanks so much far sharing your knowledge with us. Makes me want to go rebuild an evo!
Sounds like a grand idea.
thanks Mike.... Great Job.... thank you for being there.. thank you
Thank you.
True craftsmenship..see you on the road...got coffee ?
Thank you. Always got coffee.
Mike's happy motors!
Thank you. I like happy anything.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Mike are we going to get a chance to hear this engine run? Enjoyed. Gary
I'll try to make that happen.. When it's done, I'll hand it back to Bobby. When he brings it back over, we'll video it.
Wow Kool tool ,awesome results 🇨🇦
Thank you.
Thanks Mike! I always run an idiot light too. Better safe than sorry.
You bet.
13 :00 I use a paper clip bent into a U stick it in the oil hole and pinch it . its worked for me the last 20 plus years .
Yup
Comment to Bob Ross ,...yes ,the Bob Ross of Harley davidson!..very cool.
Thank You.
Mike I have a 1990 fatboy 1340 original case compression test shows 167 psi on front 169psi o. Rear cylinder I was told it has an ev46 cam I'm I stalling lifters I chose a set.of 33-5353 tappers. I do not have the alignment tool also bike has Rivera ajustable chromoly push rods that look to be in great shape my question to you is the 33-5353 tapper a good choice? Also it is the HL2T kit will this work out or should I change the pushrods and get the alignment tool before I do the job?
I don't know those catalog numbers or where they came from.
@@pacificmike9501 S&S hydraulic lifter with the HL2T travel limiter
@@pacificmike9501 The lifters look exactly like these in this video
I'd have to read their literature. Most aftermarket lifters are way better than the originals. I still read instructions. I can't keep all that data in my head.
The adjustment is figured by the manufacturer for how much the lifter must be compressed. You simply have to combine what the lifters require with the amount of turns to extend the pushrods (number of threads per inch).
Thanks for another great video. I'm curious about your opinion on using an oil pressure gauge instead of the sensor. And where to install it, sensor hole or the lifter screen plug. Im working on a clean Evo-Chopper and want to skip as much electrics as possible. Thanks from Sweden!
Sensor hole with a tee, so as to still have the sensor. An oil pressure gauge drives me nuts. All I want to know is that I have good circulation.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks for your input, guess I keep the sensor anyway. Thanks!
Hey Mike, I will be doing the lifters on my 87 evo in a few days as time permits. Do I need to let the lifters sit in motor oil prior to installing? I will be leaving the bike sit thru the winter, unless Texas gets a really nice day or two before spring. This is my first harley so I thank for any help you can share with me. fred
The lifters should come "preoiled." Just remember not to immediately rotate the engine after adjusting each pushrod. Wait for each lifter to bleed down before rotating the engine to adjust the next lifter. Remember, after letting the bike sit all winter, be sure and put a pan under it for your startup in the Spring.
what a good content mike, I'm from Chile and I've been watching your videos for a while. you explain everything very well, you are very good at doing this job, thanks for showing all this.
I am rebuilding my fxlr 1992 and you help me a lot with some doubts that I had. Could you tell me what was the torque you used in Valve Lifters please? thanks Mike
I try not to give answers on things you could easily look up in a service manual. But, something struck a nerve. I know that's a 1/4 x 20 bolt threaded into aluminum (I assume you're speaking of "tappet guide bolts"). This should be, according to Harley's usual spec, 90-120 inch pounds. But I found an incorrect number in a service manual. 90-120 inch pounds is correct for the tappet guide bolts on a 1992 Harley Davidson Evo (Big Twin) engine.
I'm sorry if you covered it in another video and I just haven't gotten to it. But do you have any recommendation on aftermarket lifters? I'm looking at fueling or S&S.
They're both great brands.
I would love to see this motor starting up when is done
Not my motor. I think he'll start it at home. Maybe it'll be here, but, I don't think so.
Hi Mike, great videos, had my evo rebuild and now getting heavy oil leak from sprocket shaft bearing seal, running open belt so seal spring is on inside, would appreciate your input
Did you replace the spacer with the seal? If not, the spacer gats a groove worn in it from the seal. You install a new seal and it doesn't fit the same. That's what it sounds like.
Okay I have to ask the question. Why are the locator tools better than just the four bolts that belong in the lifter blocks? Wouldn't they line it up properly?
I'm sorry I didn't do a better job of showing the tools. They are long and have a precision made taper on them. The holes in the lifter blocks are fairly large. The tools center them up very well. Then, the same tools are useful for installing other things, like Twin Cam oil pumps.
Ah, OK. Gotcha. Thanks.
Hey Mike I love that inch pound torque wrench, can you tell me what brand it is? Thanks for your dedication to all of us gear heads.
It is a Snap-On
hey Mike what is a good sealant for paper lifter block gasket ? or just use a thin film of oil on them
I usually spray copper coat on them. They don't leak, but they're really stuck on. I may be doing that tomorrow.
I would love for you to rebuild my Evo. 97 RK. If possible let me know. Thanks Mike.
I apologize. I am retired. Most of what I do nowdays, is my own stuff. I bale people out a little (mostly neighbors) and that's it.
@@pacificmike9501 no worries. Keep up the videos!!!
Hi, I enjoy watching and learning wrenching ,just one question. Why do you need an alignment tool for the tappet blocks ,when you can just use the original fasteners?
There's a little wobble room in the later stuff. They should be lined up with the lobes on the cam.
Is there a fancy rod holder tool for shovelhead engines as well? Or will that one you have there work with shovels as well?
Yes it will.
Hi Mike,
I have scoured my J & P CYCLES catalog pretty thoroughly & can not LOCATE the Lifter-Block ALIGNMENT Tool(s) that you are using on both the EVO & SHOVEL-Head assembly
Any idea what brand name they were SOLD under ? or where I could locate a set of them ?
Thanks for the VIDEOS
COOP
..............................................
Yes they are a lifter block alignment tool made by Jim's Machine.
@@pacificmike9501 - Thanks Mike -
I have quite a few TOOLS & ITEMS from JIM's - Thanks for the direction
COOP
...........................
Do you have to use the alignment tool? Would not the lifter bolts align the block as you finger tighten them?
Thank you, in advance for an answer.
I got in the habit doing Evos. It is "believed" the tappet rollers will line up more accurately with the cam, on an Evo, this way. It really is easier to get the whole thing set up this way. But, it's a good question.
Hey mike thanks. I have a question... Can you install the lifters 180 degrees out? And if the lifter has no oil will it be weak when you go to adjust the pushrods. 3 of 4 of mine i had to wait 10 minutes each to bleed down and the last one i put the 24 flats on and almost immediately i could turn the pushrod by hand.
They do tend to vary. Because you said "24 flats," I could assume you're working on a Shovelhead. If it has stock lifters, the holes in the lifter bodies must be turned "in" or, toward each other, assuming they are stock type Shovelhead lifters. If they aren't, they're Evos or Twin Cams, then the rule no longer applies.
@@pacificmike9501 the 24 flats comes from my big dog service manual. The motor is all s&s 107 evo style. All parts are s&s. I have heard 3.5 turns and i didnt see a pushrod adjustment in your evo engine rebuild series. Am i doing it wrong
If you're following your service manual, you've got it right (right service manual for your motor). You've "heard" 3.5 turns? You need to know what's in your motor. If you bought it new, you know its history. Sometimes it's very difficult to figure out what you have, but, well worth the effort.
Hey we need advice on a1995wide glide brakes on front . In other words you are not getting fluid thru lines. Master cylinder works perfect sooo????? Thanks LB( Noni)
Sometimes, you get bubbles in there that just get stuck. Try tapping on the lines everywhere there is a bend. Don't beat on them, but tap with a wrench. Make sure the master cylinder is level. Alot of the time a "Mighty-Vac" or similar vacuum pump is the solution. Another thing to try is a rubber band or bungee cord holding the brake lever against the grip. Leave it overnight and release it in the morning.
Mike, when you had the case apart why did you not put a drain plug in the bottom end.?
For what purpose?
To drain that that one qt on a oil change. Is that not where it is located?
On an Evo you can run the engine with the oil filter off after changing the oil to clean the bottom of the cases out. Just keep adding oil to the oil tank until it comes out perfectly clean.
Thank you kind sir
You're welcome
How do you cap the oil sending unit if you are going gaugeless?
It depends on the cases you're using or oil pump, again, where it goes. It is most likely a 1/8 pipe thread and therefore, go to the hardware or auto parts store and get a 1/8 pipe plug. Don't let the description confuse you.
very good
Thank You
Should add 6.5 step to shim the cam to noise cover backlash then put the lifters in
You might want to check your cam gear and pinion gear to be sure they are right for the bike. Service manual covers this. I don't know what you have or what you installed. Too much noise, time to look it over.
I’m going to be installing lifters what kind of installation lube is that ? what brand and where can I buy it ?
Go to any automotive supply and ask for "Assembly Lube." There are different brands. I think I was using an old bottle from Crane Cams.
Ugly lifter stool huh you should paint it od green!!! Thanks for the video Mike
Thank You.
Question, Mike. What was wrong with the engine ? Nice series btw👍
Thank You. I didn't like the way it felt. I went in and "talked" with everyone present. This bike is a very personal unit and I don't share much about her internals. That motor is where I experiment.
Sorry. I thought you meant my Shovelhead. This Evo motor had massive "bad luck." It started with lifters coming apart and went worse from there. Then there was a motor to replace it and it wasn't installed properly. It got problems right away. I mixed the two motors together, using all the good stuff, and there it is.
Thanks, Mike.👍
Ok, thanks again. I own a 1989 flhtp for 9 years . It came from Texas. Now it lives in the Netherlands😃
Hi Mike where are you located.? do you have a shop for public services.? I would like a Evo motor rebuilt.??
Thank You. But I am retired. Occasionally, I have an old debt to pay off and get roped in again. But, I am retired.
@@pacificmike9501 Right on thanks Man. love your Videos brother..! enjoy your retirement.
Thank You.
Just got 1987 Electra glide an has horrible tick an the shop that serviced bike told me they have a high revving cam in them and at the loud tic was normal but it really loud an bike has a lot of miles idk how many
Maybe you should have someone else check it out. You need to know that it's okay, or it isn't. Tick gets louder, pretty soon, it's a bang.
no Thread sealer or glue... okay it should be fine i think... i like the blue thread sealer because you have no lock washers on these bolts... i just think it won't hurt...
I don't like thread locker in the threads of my aluminum parts. Just me.
Are those hydraulic lifters? If so I always thought you had to pump them with oil before installing them
They had oil in them. Before starting the engine, I rotate to pump the lifters full. I thought I explained that in the series where I built the engine.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks I’m sorry I didn’t catch that part of the series
Mike, Do new lifters need to be primed with oil?
I generally soak them first. Then I install them. Then there is no doubt they have oil in them and you don't have to wait for them to pump up. It's really easier with an electric starter, to spin the engine with the spark plugs out to make sure they're happy first.
@@pacificmike9501 Thanks Mike, That was my thought.
Do you normally put your gaskets in dry?
Depends on the gasket itself and the placement.
i have seen that lifters go on a certain way for a oil hole access, 1999-2006 Twin cam big Twin... So Look for that...
We're working on an Evo motor here.
Did you "fill" the lifters with oil before the install?
They were full.
Thanks
How do you get a fac. head gasket off easy
Well, is it a cast iron cylinder, an aluminum cylinder? Is it a cast iron head or aluminum head? What are you trying to do? Is the cylinder and head on or off? Can these items be soaked?
What is the motorcycle?
hi . can anyone please tell me why my evo motors long studs that the barrel goes over are hollow with threads inside for the head bolts to tighten onto . the motor is in a custom chopper. nothing is standard on this bike.
The nuts are closed on the top. The studs are not hollow, they are "stretch studs." This is unless you have something truly unique. I think you're mixing some definitions. Be sure you torque things as per the manufacturer.
@@pacificmike9501 thanks mike for replying to my question. My head bolts are not like yours on the evo motor. You call yours nuts because they are hollow . My cylinder head bolts are actualy solid bolts because the long studs that come from the crank casing are hollow at the top with threads inside them to receive the head bolts.. I'm talking about the long studs that the piston cylinder slides over are hollow . and the head bolts (which are proper bolts) tighten into these studs that have threads on the inside . It's very different to your evo motors that you work on.. Do you know of an evo motor that has such a design that I'm talking about. ? .
I would think the motor would have some info cast into it. What is the bike registered as?
wish you explained the alignment tools better. I have no Idea how the worked . wouldn't the screws have done the same thing.
The alignment screws are tapered where they go through the tappet block. They hold the tappet block in the proper place more accurately.
Hum, no Gaskacinch on the gaskets. Interesting.
Okayfine.
Hi 🖖🏽😊
Hello and thank you.
You need power tools.
Not so much.
No wife huh I'll have to go get one let her do the work
I don't have an answer there.
" I like girls" ...
Me too.