I have been diagnosing damp issues for 28 years and I have yet to recommend drilling and injecting a building of cavity wall construction. When you were drilling the outside I couldn't see the original DPC which leads me to conclude that the ground levels have been raised above it and the sub floor vents. The problem with so called 'Damp Companies' is that they always diagnose 'Rising Damp' and charge the customer thousands to mask the issue rather than finding and rectifying the cause.
The paving externally is too close and high to the bay wall and likely bridging any existing DPC. Reposition paving and lower ground level leaving a suitable gap as a soak-away. Will prevent any re-occurrence of the problem. Cheers.
The paving looks to be below where the damp was inside. So I can't see that being a issue as the water would have to penetrate then move upwards. Water is very heavy and can never rise so it's more likely to be damp or rain penetrating from outside if it's a solid wall. If a cavity wall maybe the window/seal area.
at 3:35 we can see that the external paving height is simply too high, causing the wall above the DPC to become damp. The injection in reality does nothing. It's noted in the video that by removing the plaster the wall dried out, this shows you are not dealing with an endless supply of ground water i.e rising damp. The plasterboard will give you some nice separation from the damp wall and so in effect you have actually reduced the chance of the damp coming though to the decorated surface but in reality the brickwork behind will still be damp. But as with most damp, if it's not effecting the decorated finish the homeowner will be happy enough!
@@markhep the stuff you are put into that wall is doing absolutely nothing! Damp Proofing is nonsense snd not needed As the others have said high ground levels and lack of ventilation……
@@daleburns7110 hi Dale. Yes it was a broken drain that was the problem. This got fixed before we did the job. The damp proof we did was just to make sure the old one was OK or not
You could have cured the damp by removing 4 inches of paving around the Bay, digging down to the DPC, and putting some 2inch gravel down in the trench for drainage. The DPC is bridged and causing the damp. So many builders miss this when diagnosing damp issues.
Hi Andrew this one was down to a broken drain that got fixed. That's why it was pritty dry. We put the stuff in just because we had to take plaster off anyway. But yep you right. I told them if they get any more problems they will have to sort flags out 👍👍👍
@@markhep this is the problem……”damp experts” come along with a fraud meter and detect all sorts of nonsense like rising damp which is simply condensation ……they then instantly just pump the wall with chemicals which achieve nothing , ignoring the true usually simple reasons …….
I have this problem but I am going to try breathable plaster and breathable paint instead of the modern paints that will not release moisture. The way they did it before they had damp courses.
I tried the breathable plaster before. The customer wanted it and it didn't work.but I could have done it wrong. The only way I have had it actually work is doing it like this. But honestly I am not a professional damp proofer. So I carnt really give idvice. But let us know if you go with the plaster and how it goes . We all hear to help each other 👍👍👍
Keep an open mind and be aware that rising damp is extremely rare. Houses built before the 1965 Bldg Regs never had a damp-course and they are all still standing and free of the rising nonsense. Happy days!
@@TextBookPuncher1 yes you right on that mate .most times it's something else out side doing it .this one was a drain that had cracked.we put the damp proof in just as a precaution.as we had to take the plaster of anyway 👍👍
Internally there are 8 courses of brick above the flooring, externally there are 10 courses of brick before the paving is reached - so the question is this: where is the DPC? I have a hunch that the DPC is either at the 10th course of bricks just barely above the paving OR 1 brick below. The house appears to be a cavity wall construction based on the 'stretcher' bond walling as opposed to 1 brick thick walling of older housing. I would have lifted a paver outside and had a look for the DPC - but whatever is going on the cavity wall is being breached - an option would have been to put an ait brick in for ventilation.
Hi mate it is were I was drilling. It was 120mm above the paving. So paving is a bit high. The problem was a bust rain water drain. It got fixed before we got there 👍
Great video Mark. I have an internal wall that is non load bearing and it has bad rising damp as we have no damp proof course throughout the apartment. The wall has the orange blocks rather than bricks, can I use the rods rather than the liquid injection you are using and the mortar is very thin can I put the rods into the blocks, thank you for your help
You should have relocated the radiator to under the window. The exterior floor is too high and this was probably the root cause of the issue in the first place.
Hi Mark, very educational video.I have a first floor flat and a couple of bedroom walls becomes quite damp , should I use the plaster boards and the same treatment for outside and inside ?
Rising damp usley only shows 1m from the ground if you on first floor and higher than a 1m. It could be coming in through brick joints or cocondensation. I would call some one out to give you some advice. This treatment is made more for damp near the ground floor. So not sure weather it would work. If you mean ground floor then yes it should work it did on this one.yes it's the same for inside and out side 👍
Hi. How would you go when it's about the pillar of the house internal. how deep should the hole be? Definitely it won't fit because it will hit the other side of the rod unless I cut it but then it will be too short. Does it make any difference if its shorter? I hope all these makes sense. Thanks.
@renovationukmarkhep only one got in all the way. I had to stop drilling to have a bit of brick left at the end of the rod.The rest of them I had to cut them in half or bits of 2 cm to fill in all the holes.I filled all the holes with tiny bits along.It was a hit of a job as its not along the wall where you can drill the length of the rod. We'll I hope I did a good job. Also there is a crack in the bricks on vertical where I can see the insulation in the cavity wall .Should i cover it with expanding foam?
@renovationukmarkhep ua-cam.com/video/46fg0ybH3Vw/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared check out my work and let me know if you want if I did a good job or not. Or to do before I cover the wall. Well beginner's makes mistakes.This is how we learn.
Hi mate .yere it's had years of paint on it .it was a cracked drain that did the damp . It got fixed before we got there .customer just wanted damp proof done as it spread pritty quick
Hi Scott. You drill at every half brick. And when you put the cream in it soaks into the brick making a full run. Honestly mate when I first used it I thought the same. But it does seem to work. But I am no professional at it. I have only done it 4 times before. But it has stopped the damp 4 times 👍👍👍
@@markhep first time I’ve seen it done - Looks great - Rising damp has been a massive problem for many years - Need to see more videos like this 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
You didn't fix the damp cause you just remedied it looks like no underfloor airvents outside ground level is too high bricks are spalling outside maybe due to the high humidity in the cavity there is a number of causes this wouldn't fix it.
Hi Mark, would you say plasterboard works better for damp proofing than wet plaster. I have a few big internal walls suffering from internal damp which I am using dryzone for
Hi mate just wondering can I use normal dab on the wall after I have used the cream to seal it as it’s a big wall and I have fixed the guttering that was leaking to cause the damp issue,will I still get damp dab marks till the wall has dried,thanks again
Hi mate. The customer had a broken drain pipe that was leaking under the side of the house. From next door. They fixed it a wile back. And it has been drying out slowly 👍👍👍
Hi, what is the name for the cream and the product you use to inject in the wall please? Also, would you recommend using waterproof render after and then plastering? Thanks!!
Hi mate it's the same make as what was put in on the gun. But this was in a tub. I am sure its the same thing looks the same. Yes I think you can plaster straight on it when it's dry. 👍👍👍
The cream that you put on the wall is called dry shield and this is different to the cream your use for damp proofing .. and with dry shield you. Use a water proof adhesive called dry grip which can be applied 30 minutes after application and skimmed that day . We still use the board foam as it sets quicker .. the system is called express system by safeguard
.wonder if that's on a sand and cement backing.they take a long time to dry fully .I didn't have a problem with this one .but I think if it was a hard backing not board then .yes I wouldn't paper it it would probably not stick well
Yes, they are not putting plaster board on. Thank you. Im just gutted i have to wait so long to put my zebra print wall paper up. And of course having damp on new house.
😂😂😂The wall paper was definitely a one off job. I should have recorded it would have made a few giggle I looked like a right idiot. But the end result wasn't bad at all 😂😂😂👍👍👍👍
Counting the brick. It's 8 coarse inside 10 coarse outside so that wouldn't of fixed it would of it. I aunt a clue but surely you have to drill on the same line both sides to make it sealed. Or am I looking into it too much surly it had should of been done 2 corse higher outside isn't it ment to be 2 brick higher from ground level
Good video. I have something similar in my flat. That last application of foam you applied to the back of new boards. You said it will "go off" in an hour. What did you mean? It will expand and multiply creating a full layer of foam between back of board and brick wall??
Thanks mate 👍. No the foam it just like a glue it doesn't expand. It's for plasterboard. Don't get the expanding one as it will push the board off the wall. If you ask at the shop they will tell you type you need 👍👍👍
@@markhep Because we always have. This is a throw-back to the 1960s when people actually believed in Santa Claus and rising damp. Universities have done testing with brick walls submerged in water and rising damp did not occur. 99% of damp is PENETRATING damp due to high soil levels, leaky downpipes/gutters, etc. Go to the BRE website and check out rising damp as a reality, it is as "common" as hens' teeth. Did you test for salts in the moisture? If not it ain't coming up from the ground. Study Peter Ward UA-cams for one. He makes a living out of mistaken rising damp diagnoses by so-called damp surveyors.
@@albionlondon7550 yere I know what you mean seen a few vids. you don't know what to believe really I know this one was because of a cracked drain pipe in corner of house. That got sorted before we came to re plaster. We put it in as a precaution. Because it spread quite far 👍but yere who knows really 👍👍
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Lower external gound level, make sure the vent is clear, then plaster with lime plaster. All other work is unnecessary.
I have been diagnosing damp issues for 28 years and I have yet to recommend drilling and injecting a building of cavity wall construction. When you were drilling the outside I couldn't see the original DPC which leads me to conclude that the ground levels have been raised above it and the sub floor vents. The problem with so called 'Damp Companies' is that they always diagnose 'Rising Damp' and charge the customer thousands to mask the issue rather than finding and rectifying the cause.
The paving externally is too close and high to the bay wall and likely bridging any existing DPC. Reposition paving and lower ground level leaving a suitable gap as a soak-away. Will prevent any re-occurrence of the problem. Cheers.
Chears Paul you probably right with one. If it returns I will definitely give them that advice 👍👍👍
The paving looks to be below where the damp was inside. So I can't see that being a issue as the water would have to penetrate then move upwards. Water is very heavy and can never rise so it's more likely to be damp or rain penetrating from outside if it's a solid wall. If a cavity wall maybe the window/seal area.
Your right ...
Well done I was waiting for someone to spot that
@@robertsanders4074 "water is heavy and can't rise" Google capillary action 🤦🏼♂️
Hi mark, could add the products used in description. You made this look easy. Well done you
Cheers j yes I will do 👍👍👍
Hermoso trabajo felicitaciones saludos desde Chile 🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱🇨🇱
Thank you vianka very kind 👍👍👍
Move the flowers, move the paving. Create a French drain. All of that is DPC bridge and contact damp, I reckon.
Yes mate I was thinking the same when I was there. Think if he gets any damp back he will have to do that 👍👍👍👍
Thank you. Very useful video
👍👍👍
at 3:35 we can see that the external paving height is simply too high, causing the wall above the DPC to become damp. The injection in reality does nothing. It's noted in the video that by removing the plaster the wall dried out, this shows you are not dealing with an endless supply of ground water i.e rising damp. The plasterboard will give you some nice separation from the damp wall and so in effect you have actually reduced the chance of the damp coming though to the decorated surface but in reality the brickwork behind will still be damp. But as with most damp, if it's not effecting the decorated finish the homeowner will be happy enough!
Hi mate. Yes you right I did tell him that the paving was too high. And if he does get any more problems. He will have to do something with it. 👍👍
@@markhep the stuff you are put into that wall is doing absolutely nothing! Damp
Proofing is nonsense snd not needed
As the others have said high ground levels and lack of ventilation……
@@daleburns7110 hi Dale. Yes it was a broken drain that was the problem. This got fixed before we did the job. The damp proof we did was just to make sure the old one was OK or not
All it needs is air vents because there’s moisture beneath the suspended floor that can’t escape so comes through the walls.
why not resolve the cause of the damp rather than treating symptoms.
Hi mate custom did before we got there it was a rain water drain that had cracked
You could have cured the damp by removing 4 inches of paving around the Bay, digging down to the DPC, and putting some 2inch gravel down in the trench for drainage. The DPC is bridged and causing the damp. So many builders miss this when diagnosing damp issues.
Hi Andrew this one was down to a broken drain that got fixed. That's why it was pritty dry. We put the stuff in just because we had to take plaster off anyway. But yep you right. I told them if they get any more problems they will have to sort flags out 👍👍👍
@@markhep this is the problem……”damp experts” come along with a fraud meter and detect all sorts of nonsense like rising damp which is simply condensation ……they then instantly just pump the wall with chemicals which achieve nothing , ignoring the true usually simple reasons …….
How much did the repair cost
love your videos
Cheers mate👍👍
I have this problem but I am going to try breathable plaster and breathable paint instead of the modern paints that will not release moisture. The way they did it before they had damp courses.
I tried the breathable plaster before. The customer wanted it and it didn't work.but I could have done it wrong. The only way I have had it actually work is doing it like this. But honestly I am not a professional damp proofer. So I carnt really give idvice. But let us know if you go with the plaster and how it goes . We all hear to help each other 👍👍👍
lime plaster and Earthborn clay paint. Your walls will thank you for it
you learn something every day ! cheers video...
Thanks mate 👍👍👍
Keep an open mind and be aware that rising damp is extremely rare. Houses built before the 1965 Bldg Regs never had a damp-course and they are all still standing and free of the rising nonsense. Happy days!
You must be a flat earther.
@@wackypeace1135 😂😉
U have a point. People should check outside ground levels and also the sub floor ventilation
@@TextBookPuncher1 yes you right on that mate .most times it's something else out side doing it .this one was a drain that had cracked.we put the damp proof in just as a precaution.as we had to take the plaster of anyway 👍👍
Well done good job that ,and well explained .
Cheers mate 👍👍
how do you know how far to drill into the bricks mate?
You want to be 90mm just so it doesn't go through back if brick👍
Internally there are 8 courses of brick above the flooring, externally there are 10 courses of brick before the paving is reached - so the question is this: where is the DPC? I have a hunch that the DPC is either at the 10th course of bricks just barely above the paving OR 1 brick below.
The house appears to be a cavity wall construction based on the 'stretcher' bond walling as opposed to 1 brick thick walling of older housing.
I would have lifted a paver outside and had a look for the DPC - but whatever is going on the cavity wall is being breached - an option would have been to put an ait brick in for ventilation.
Hi mate it is were I was drilling. It was 120mm above the paving. So paving is a bit high. The problem was a bust rain water drain. It got fixed before we got there 👍
You did the same as me count the brick is probably the 1st thing to do lol
@@1.9.8.3 As Mark said above - it wasn't even a problem with the height of bricks or DPC, but a 'burst drain'!
The damp was rising in the plaster only, once removed the wall dries out...nothing else was required....
Can I ask, is the cream you painted on the same stuff you injected? Did it work
It was mate think you should buy the one in a tub. But I just put the stuff on with I had left in the gun👍
@@markhep thanks for replying, found your video very helpful. 👍🏼
@@Englishmechanic123 no worries matt thanks for watching 👍
U masking the problem is always comes back. Stop kidding yourself !!
It hasn't so far. But saying that I pulled the plasterboard off the wall with foam. So who knows what's going off behind it. Hopefully it's dry 👍
Great video Mark. I have an internal wall that is non load bearing and it has bad rising damp as we have no damp proof course throughout the apartment. The wall has the orange blocks rather than bricks, can I use the rods rather than the liquid injection you are using and the mortar is very thin can I put the rods into the blocks, thank you for your help
Hi mate I think it's made to soak into the mortar bed .you could give it a go but I not an expert on this sort of thing .👍
Thanks will give it a go and re plaster and put the damp proof paint on and if it last couple years it will be worth it and start again
Great vid. Did you intentionally leave the cable behind the plasterboard at 5:50? Thanks
Thanks mate yes was the TV Arial I had it come out under the new skirting board and under carpet looked a better hidden 👍
nice job
Cheers stuart👍👍👍
@markhep how much did this repair cost just to damp proof the bare wall
Do you drill all the way thru the brick into the cavity or just 2/3 of brick
Hi yes leave a bit you don't want it to go all way through the brick joint 👍
Need to deal with the root cause. This is silly.
We did it was a leaking drain. Got sorted before we did the work. We put the damp proof in to try and stop it. If it ever happened again. 👍
You should have relocated the radiator to under the window. The exterior floor is too high and this was probably the root cause of the issue in the first place.
Could be mate 👍👍👍
radiator under window will give you more issues
Radiators under windows is old hat, heating and drying out external wall then Winter weather and temps pull it in the other direction.
Nice job
Cheers lynn👍👍👍
I didn't know you could stick plasterboard with expanding foam, that's something I'll try some time!
Hi mate it's plaster board foam. It does not expand so it doesn't shove the board off. If you try it make sure it says for plaster board 👍👍👍👍😉
@@markhep Thanks, will make sure I get the right stuff!
Thanks 👍🇬🇧
Chears mate 👍👍👍
Hi Mark, very educational video.I have a first floor flat and a couple of bedroom walls becomes quite damp , should I use the plaster boards and the same treatment for outside and inside ?
Rising damp usley only shows 1m from the ground if you on first floor and higher than a 1m. It could be coming in through brick joints or cocondensation. I would call some one out to give you some advice. This treatment is made more for damp near the ground floor. So not sure weather it would work. If you mean ground floor then yes it should work it did on this one.yes it's the same for inside and out side 👍
What happened about the aerial cable ?
Hi mate I dropped it at back of plasterboard and came out under the the skirting board 👍
What happened to the tv aerial cable ?
Hi I put it at the back of board and came at the bottom of the skirting board 👍
Hi. If you using the stick, do you have to do the outside aswell?
Thanks
Hi mate the one I am using is inside and out. Not sure about other brands👍
Hi. How would you go when it's about the pillar of the house internal. how deep should the hole be? Definitely it won't fit because it will hit the other side of the rod unless I cut it but then it will be too short. Does it make any difference if its shorter? I hope all these makes sense. Thanks.
Honestly mate I am not sure let me know how it went 👍👍
@renovationukmarkhep only one got in all the way. I had to stop drilling to have a bit of brick left at the end of the rod.The rest of them I had to cut them in half or bits of 2 cm to fill in all the holes.I filled all the holes with tiny bits along.It was a hit of a job as its not along the wall where you can drill the length of the rod. We'll I hope I did a good job. Also there is a crack in the bricks on vertical where I can see the insulation in the cavity wall .Should i cover it with expanding foam?
@@lucianbrighi yes could do or put a bit of sand and cement in . hopefully that will stop the damp 🤞👍👍
@renovationukmarkhep ua-cam.com/video/46fg0ybH3Vw/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared check out my work and let me know if you want if I did a good job or not. Or to do before I cover the wall. Well beginner's makes mistakes.This is how we learn.
Plastic paint on top of wallpaper, no wonder the wall stays wet, waken up. Have you checked your windows for leakage.
Hi mate .yere it's had years of paint on it .it was a cracked drain that did the damp . It got fixed before we got there .customer just wanted damp proof done as it spread pritty quick
what do ya do if u cannot see the mortar line and the wall has been rendered to the point u cant find d lines
I think you would have to take the render off 👍
Can’t see how the damp proof is fixed by drilling holes and filling them ? Damp proofing have to run a lot the brick course ?????
Hi Scott. You drill at every half brick. And when you put the cream in it soaks into the brick making a full run. Honestly mate when I first used it I thought the same. But it does seem to work. But I am no professional at it. I have only done it 4 times before. But it has stopped the damp 4 times 👍👍👍
@@markhep first time I’ve seen it done - Looks great - Rising damp has been a massive problem for many years - Need to see more videos like this 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
@@scottcorcoran8225 yere definitely. I would like to see more. And some good testing would be grate 👍👍👍
Is this just normal plasterboard your using mate or would you recommend a moisture resistant board??
If you got bad damp I would use the moisture resistant 👍👍👍
@@markhep perfect mate thanks!
You didn't fix the damp cause you just remedied it looks like no underfloor airvents outside ground level is too high bricks are spalling outside maybe due to the high humidity in the cavity there is a number of causes this wouldn't fix it.
Hi mate .it was fixed before we got there .it was a cracked rain water drain down side of house.that was the problem 👍
With a gun like that you could have a sideline as a proctologist 😨
😂😂😂. Like that one lol🤣🤣👍👍👍😜
Did this damp proofing work? How is the wall now? Sorted? Thanks for the video
Hi mate yet it worked on this house. No damp anymore 👍👍👍
What foam did you use to stick the plasterboard?
Thanks
Hi mate I used soudal plasterboard foam 👍
@@markhep thank you
Hi Mark, would you say plasterboard works better for damp proofing than wet plaster. I have a few big internal walls suffering from internal damp which I am using dryzone for
Yere mate I would say plaster board. And stick on with plasterboard foam. Works for me. But there are a few ways to do it👍👍👍
Good job there Mark even the wallpapering looked tidy 👍
🤣Cheers. Yes surprised my self with the paper. I said I will have a go but if it looks crap you minght have to call someone lol👍👍👍
Hi mate just wondering can I use normal dab on the wall after I have used the cream to seal it as it’s a big wall and I have fixed the guttering that was leaking to cause the damp issue,will I still get damp dab marks till the wall has dried,thanks again
Hi mate if the wall is still a bit damp it may come through were you have dabed it on I not sure I would risk it 👍👍👍
Mark, on the external what course are you meant to drill into? Shall I drill into the existing damp proof course or the course above/below it?
Hi mate yes drill into existing damp proof. And not into the brick just the joint every half brick 👍👍👍
And the same on the inside of the house same course?
@@francis1431 yes mate 👍👍👍
You found the cause of the damp?
Hi mate. The customer had a broken drain pipe that was leaking under the side of the house. From next door. They fixed it a wile back. And it has been drying out slowly 👍👍👍
Great job mark,what happened to the TV cable that was there.
Hi Andrew I run it down the back of the plaster board and under the carpet. Looked a bit neater that way 👍👍👍
@@markhep I see it looks alot better that way..look forward to your next video 👍
@@andrewbeardsworth5461 cheers mate got a big job we just started will try and get the first vid on tomorrow 👍👍👍
@@markhep 👍
Hi, what is the name for the cream and the product you use to inject in the wall please? Also, would you recommend using waterproof render after and then plastering? Thanks!!
Hi mate it's just called dry zone cream 👍👍👍
Where are you from. Somewhere in the NorthWest?
Near selby 👍
Hi Mark, good work, what is the name of the creamy liquid you are brushing on the wall? If i use the same can i plaster over it? Thanks
Hi mate it's the same make as what was put in on the gun. But this was in a tub. I am sure its the same thing looks the same. Yes I think you can plaster straight on it when it's dry. 👍👍👍
The cream that you put on the wall is called dry shield and this is different to the cream your use for damp proofing .. and with dry shield you. Use a water proof adhesive called dry grip which can be applied 30 minutes after application and skimmed that day . We still use the board foam as it sets quicker .. the system is called express system by safeguard
I don't understand, but I can see what you do🤘👍🤝
😂Cheers brick man🤣👍 got a good job coming up this week plenty of brick work big summer house 👍👍👍
@@markhep it's great, I watch tick-tok and instagram🙂
@@brickmanchannel3229 nice one 👍👍👍👍
Outside too high. Bad job outside raised level over damp course
Yes you right mate the paving is too high really 👍
Hi what product are you using with the brush ?
Hi mate it's dryzone cream in a tub👍👍👍
Is that a solid or timber floor inside?
It's a timber floor 👍👍👍
Not really the way forward to cure this issue. Check air brick, 150mm clearance of dpc to floor level. Good ventilation in the living room
Yes mate you right 👍
Ive been told by company who are going to do my damp, that i cant wallpaer for 18 months after its been done. 🙀
.wonder if that's on a sand and cement backing.they take a long time to dry fully .I didn't have a problem with this one .but I think if it was a hard backing not board then .yes I wouldn't paper it it would probably not stick well
Yes, they are not putting plaster board on. Thank you. Im just gutted i have to wait so long to put my zebra print wall paper up. And of course having damp on new house.
@@Linda-rn7pg should look cool that .yes damp is not a nice thing to have in your house 👍
How much it cost to pay someone to do this?
I did this for someone I know so didn't cost that much .think £500 I don't know what the professional would charge 👍
When we see you cutting the paper, we think you didn’t do anything to that wall, just put a little white paint on it 😂😉
😂😂😂The wall paper was definitely a one off job. I should have recorded it would have made a few giggle I looked like a right idiot. But the end result wasn't bad at all 😂😂😂👍👍👍👍
@@markhep Always be wary of what you see on the Internet 😂😂😂
@@Clothis64 😂😂😂definitely 🤣🤣🤣👍👍👍😜
Counting the brick. It's 8 coarse inside 10 coarse outside so that wouldn't of fixed it would of it. I aunt a clue but surely you have to drill on the same line both sides to make it sealed. Or am I looking into it too much surly it had should of been done 2 corse higher outside isn't it ment to be 2 brick higher from ground level
Good video. I have something similar in my flat. That last application of foam you applied to the back of new boards. You said it will "go off" in an hour. What did you mean? It will expand and multiply creating a full layer of foam between back of board and brick wall??
Thanks mate 👍. No the foam it just like a glue it doesn't expand. It's for plasterboard. Don't get the expanding one as it will push the board off the wall. If you ask at the shop they will tell you type you need 👍👍👍
If you believe in rising damp you must still wait for Father Christmas every year. He ain’t coming. Geddit?
Why do they put a dpc in every house that's built then. for the fun of it.
@@markhep Because we always have. This is a throw-back to the 1960s when people actually believed in Santa Claus and rising damp. Universities have done testing with brick walls submerged in water and rising damp did not occur. 99% of damp is PENETRATING damp due to high soil levels, leaky downpipes/gutters, etc. Go to the BRE website and check out rising damp as a reality, it is as "common" as hens' teeth. Did you test for salts in the moisture? If not it ain't coming up from the ground. Study Peter Ward UA-cams for one. He makes a living out of mistaken rising damp diagnoses by so-called damp surveyors.
@@albionlondon7550 yere I know what you mean seen a few vids. you don't know what to believe really I know this one was because of a cracked drain pipe in corner of house. That got sorted before we came to re plaster. We put it in as a precaution. Because it spread quite far 👍but yere who knows really 👍👍
Bro cream u put
Hi mate it's called dry zone
Can I put the cream on plastered wall?
I don't think you can. It's designed to penetrate into the bricks to seal them against damp. I don't think it would work on plaster👍👍👍
Remove the plant pot! Damp gone!! Ffs
Get a breaker for fuck sake 🤣
I did lol 😂👍👍👍
I'm me francis Gbedzeha please we need to talk about this please
What you want to talk about
Great video mark , never seen this done , very interesting. As I always say you just get stuck in and get stuff done 💪🏽👌🏼👍🏼🧱
😂Chears Steve. Yere done this a few times now seems to work well. But it's definitely not one I want to be doing every day lol👍👍👍
@@markhep 🤣🤣🧱👍🏽