Thanks for the video, it's showing very well how to do the hardware part. About the e-steps: you really should do your measurements after loading the filament in a heated head! Resistance will give you different e-steps values. So best thing to do is measure 10 cm with the caliper *before* the filament is entering the extruder, in a ready to print situation and then do the maths again!
Thank you for the video! ... I had gotten my WINSINN yesterday, and installed it right away, and didn't realize I needed to calibrate it. I was having such a time getting my printer to work with my PETG. I had not even thought that my printer was under extruding. I guess I should lower my bed now! Thanks again!
Which is probably about the length that’s left in the bends since the piece is not perfectly straight. I tried this and it makes a piece that is over 99 mm at least.
Pro tip without spending money on anything: keep your 3D printers clean. That gear on the feeder motor is too dirty (the grooves are filled with filament remnants), clean it with a toothbrush. Also, there are small position shifts after a few layers of work. People would think it caused by the printer's inaccuracy (cheap parts) but it's mostly caused by the rails. If we are talking about 3D printers, hundredth millimeters are matters. If the rails are dirty (they have some dust on them) it will lift the gears a bit and it will cause small errors. Clean completely the rails before every 3D print where the acccuracy is matters.
Unfortunately, this particular dual gear extruder (I got one also for my JGMAKER MAGIC) has needle bearings in the idler gear. That is good EXCEPT they ride against the threads of that long screw!!! They will be eaten in short order To fix that, I took a 4mm screw of the same length, put it in my mini-lathe and cut off the threads except for 3mm of length at the screw head. I polished it and then drilled and tapped the top of the lever arm for 4mm and drilled out the bottom hole for 3mm clearance. Now those needle bearings, well greased, ride on a smooth shaft. Also, I filed down the bottom surface of that arm to allow a washer under the idler gear so that it doesn't chew the arm to bits. Those are two huge problems with the extruder that you chose. Hope this helps some of you. :)
That yellow spring is waaaay too strong also. The side load that it puts on the stepper shaft is excessive and will chop out the bearings in no time. There’s no need for a dual pinch drive like this to have such a strong spring.
Hi, after this upgrade (and direct drive) Im getting gaps between lines, I don't know what happened. Some say it's the belt tension, others says it's the Bowden.
Hello, are you satisfied so far? Have you had a problem with the engine overheating? I bought a new ender3 V2. Would you recommend a single aluminum arm or is a double healthier?
Calibration of the esteps without the bowden tube is not the correct method. You need the tube installed and filament actually flowing thru the nozzle to get the most accurate results. The extruder will need to push against the hot nozzle to get filament flowing... which causes resistance. The esteps need to properly account for this. Your frictionless method without the tube and hot end may get you close, but you will be under extruding when assembled.
I just ordered one of these extruder upgrades, but on my unit (not a creality) the extruder is mounted on the other side of the z axis screw. The factory extruder exits behind said screw. Anyway you could measure from the rear mounting screw to the beginning of the extruder exist body so I can see if it'll clear on my setup?
This video is helpful, however as we can all see, there is still quite a bit of variance at the end of it. Run the test a few times. My ending ratio was about 138.4
Yep. The dual gears are much smaller in diameter and so push less filament per revolution. I had to increase my e stop by about 40% to get the correct filament feed.
We have designed and manufactured a brand new upgraded extruder. After many 3D printing enthusiasts use it, the reflection effect is very good. Are you interested?
Do you like your Ender 3 V2? Any problems? If you had a regular Ender 3 (or PRO), do you like rhe V2 better? My concern is if the controller board can be updated with Marlin, or even totally replaced with a BIGTREETECH SKR mini e3 v2.0 board?
Thanks for the end here. I didn't change my extruder transmission and my walls where thin and seperating. I have the same kit so I'll try 138.8 If that doesn't work I'll measure :p
Its nice and all, I got this exact same extruder on my ender 3 pro, but it wears even faster than the original extruder, I will print a New filament Guide but it is a little dissapointing that it wears out this fast. Still recommend it tho as it saved my printer, it has layer skips and the tops of prints looked like garbage. But now it works fine.
Thanks for the great tutorial. A doubt: do I need to change the transmition ratio E to 138.8 everytime I turn off and turn on the printer, since I realize it goes back to 90? Tks once again!
Firmware 1.0.1 stores the EEPROM on the SD-card. You need to upgrade the firmware for the machine to use the internal EEPROM. CHEP Has a video on the subject: ua-cam.com/video/dLZm2itXJkg/v-deo.html
i got this upgrade ,, but the heat from the stepper motor (107c) is passing through and heating up the coupler and ptf tube ,,,,,,, not getting many prints before both need replacing ends up with 2mm of play ,,,, i recommend putting old one back on and upgrading to direct drive, as good as the printer is ,, it needs a direct drive system
@@brianhilligoss nope they get warm, but with dual gear extruder it pushs on the rod that goes through the stepper motor almost bending it which probably causes more friction ,,, it was a good idea at the time but the heat transfers through it , i recommend putting old one back on but upgrading to direct drive
Thank you for the video, but you went way too fast. Also when you clicked to change the setting number it turned light blue and was very difficult to read. Also did you have to save the settings you changed?
No, you don't need to save the changes to properly calibrate the new extruder, so when you reboot the machine it reverts to the old config and the work you did is wasted... Come on, use your fucking brain. Of course you have to save the changes.
as a complete noob who has just ordered one of these machines what is the benefit of changing the extruder to two gears? all I can see from the video is it looks like it exudes slower? - cheers
1.The product material adopts brand-new imported aviation aluminum material 2.Double-gear and double-pneumatic joint extrusion structure, high squeezing force, ensure smooth feeding, not easy to lose steps . As far as I try it doesn't make a big difference.
@@estoylisto soft TPU doesn’t work very well with Bowden tubes. Has nothing to do with the extruder as such. You can mitigate by improving the Bowden tube - see Capricorn - or by converting to direct drive. And also, “doesn’t work very well” doesn’t mean “doesn’t work at all”, plus here are softer and harder TPUs. The harder TPUs can be printed with a stock ender 3 without too many issues.
the mod has dual gear drive, as opposed to single sided drive and a idler. This helps grip filament better(no slipping). Additionally the driven tooth portion is smaller, therefore giving your extruder a bit more torque to move filament. Also its only like $15, definitely worth it!
The extra gear you added makes no improvement, since it is a passive gear. Only one gear is pushing, the new one will be only good for leaving tiny dents on the other side of the filament which would be a downgrade instead. Two gears pushing/pulling is something else.
Thanks for the video, it's showing very well how to do the hardware part. About the e-steps: you really should do your measurements after loading the filament in a heated head! Resistance will give you different e-steps values. So best thing to do is measure 10 cm with the caliper *before* the filament is entering the extruder, in a ready to print situation and then do the maths again!
Thank you for the video! ... I had gotten my WINSINN yesterday, and installed it right away, and didn't realize I needed to calibrate it. I was having such a time getting my printer to work with my PETG. I had not even thought that my printer was under extruding. I guess I should lower my bed now! Thanks again!
Outstanding extruder design and a great install video. This extruder has almost zero slippage which is great.
Ended up getting exactly the same values as you when I set my dual gear up... 138.8 is a perfect 100mm at 185c and 205c. Thanks for the video!
Haha. I love how he holds the caliper up showing 100mm with a piece of filament about 5 mm shorter.
Which is probably about the length that’s left in the bends since the piece is not perfectly straight. I tried this and it makes a piece that is over 99 mm at least.
Pro tip without spending money on anything: keep your 3D printers clean. That gear on the feeder motor is too dirty (the grooves are filled with filament remnants), clean it with a toothbrush. Also, there are small position shifts after a few layers of work. People would think it caused by the printer's inaccuracy (cheap parts) but it's mostly caused by the rails. If we are talking about 3D printers, hundredth millimeters are matters. If the rails are dirty (they have some dust on them) it will lift the gears a bit and it will cause small errors. Clean completely the rails before every 3D print where the acccuracy is matters.
Came here for a dual extruder, left here buying a dual gear extruder :D
Unfortunately, this particular dual gear extruder (I got one also for my JGMAKER MAGIC) has needle bearings in the idler gear. That is good EXCEPT they ride against the threads of that long screw!!! They will be eaten in short order To fix that, I took a 4mm screw of the same length, put it in my mini-lathe and cut off the threads except for 3mm of length at the screw head. I polished it and then drilled and tapped the top of the lever arm for 4mm and drilled out the bottom hole for 3mm clearance. Now those needle bearings, well greased, ride on a smooth shaft. Also, I filed down the bottom surface of that arm to allow a washer under the idler gear so that it doesn't chew the arm to bits. Those are two huge problems with the extruder that you chose.
Hope this helps some of you. :)
That yellow spring is waaaay too strong also. The side load that it puts on the stepper shaft is excessive and will chop out the bearings in no time. There’s no need for a dual pinch drive like this to have such a strong spring.
Hi, after this upgrade (and direct drive) Im getting gaps between lines, I don't know what happened. Some say it's the belt tension, others says it's the Bowden.
Thanks for this! Just bought the upgrade for myself!
Hello, are you satisfied so far? Have you had a problem with the engine overheating? I bought a new ender3 V2. Would you recommend a single aluminum arm or is a double healthier?
Thank yo so much.
It helped me a lot thank you
What does the nozzle temperature matter if there is no bowden to the nozzle and you're just pushing it thru extruder?
the extruder won't work if the nozzle isn't heated up.
it looked to me like it was a little short in your video
Tks!
Calibration of the esteps without the bowden tube is not the correct method. You need the tube installed and filament actually flowing thru the nozzle to get the most accurate results. The extruder will need to push against the hot nozzle to get filament flowing... which causes resistance. The esteps need to properly account for this. Your frictionless method without the tube and hot end may get you close, but you will be under extruding when assembled.
My initial 100mm extrude was 96.6mm, how does that change the ratio? Or how would I recalibrate that if I weren’t doing a dual gear upgrade?
I just ordered one of these extruder upgrades, but on my unit (not a creality) the extruder is mounted on the other side of the z axis screw. The factory extruder exits behind said screw. Anyway you could measure from the rear mounting screw to the beginning of the extruder exist body so I can see if it'll clear on my setup?
How do you get the machine to save the 138.8 setting? Do you really have to enter this every time?
This video is helpful, however as we can all see, there is still quite a bit of variance at the end of it. Run the test a few times. My ending ratio was about 138.4
Thanks for the video, getting the v2 and upgrading it.
Don't need to change any step settings?
sad part is that we cant use the extruder knob and see it spinning
You should also confirm your 100mm once you are hooked up and facing backpressure. It WON'T be the same 100mm!
Yep. The dual gears are much smaller in diameter and so push less filament per revolution. I had to increase my e stop by about 40% to get the correct filament feed.
11:30 hmm...look at the feet!!!
Thank you so much, great video, not too long and detailled really good.
I also installed the Winsinn extruder and didnt make any setting changes and it still prints perfectly.
Why we need to change it to 138.8?
Thanks! short video, great detail.
We have designed and manufactured a brand new upgraded extruder. After many 3D printing enthusiasts use it, the reflection effect is very good. Are you interested?
Do you like your Ender 3 V2? Any problems? If you had a regular Ender 3 (or PRO), do you like rhe V2 better? My concern is if the controller board can be updated with Marlin, or even totally replaced with a BIGTREETECH SKR mini e3 v2.0 board?
Ender 3v2 is my second printer and I like the design of the printer.Thank you Bro.
The print at the end looks worse 🤔 look at the very last picture of the shoe tread. The dual extruder didn't even complete it
Thanks for the end here. I didn't change my extruder transmission and my walls where thin and seperating.
I have the same kit so I'll try 138.8 If that doesn't work I'll measure :p
i got the same number as you 138.8. i changed the transmission ratio to 139 and it extruded out 139mm of filament after saving the 139?
OMG!
Its nice and all, I got this exact same extruder on my ender 3 pro, but it wears even faster than the original extruder, I will print a New filament Guide but it is a little dissapointing that it wears out this fast. Still recommend it tho as it saved my printer, it has layer skips and the tops of prints looked like garbage. But now it works fine.
Great video, thanks for making it
Thanks for the great tutorial. A doubt: do I need to change the transmition ratio E to 138.8 everytime I turn off and turn on the printer, since I realize it goes back to 90? Tks once again!
You have to click Strorage Configuration on Control menu.
Could you link to the kit you purchased? I've seen a few on Amazon, but they all have reviews that vary wildly. Thanks!
Hi, Excellent, Saved me a lot of time, Next a BL Touch video for this machine,
I got the Ender 3 V2 as well but the e value is not permanently stored, any suggestions?
Firmware 1.0.1 stores the EEPROM on the SD-card. You need to upgrade the firmware for the machine to use the internal EEPROM. CHEP Has a video on the subject: ua-cam.com/video/dLZm2itXJkg/v-deo.html
@@durken-gw2gr will check that, thanks
will this setup make it easy to print Ninja flex on the ender 3?
I think it's no different.
Is it possible to provide the Dual Gear Extruder reference?
Thank you for this video
i got this upgrade ,, but the heat from the stepper motor (107c) is passing through and heating up the coupler and ptf tube ,,,,,,, not getting many prints before both need replacing ends up with 2mm of play ,,,, i recommend putting old one back on and upgrading to direct drive, as good as the printer is ,, it needs a direct drive system
Your stepper should never get that hot. You must have the tension way to high. Stepper should stay cool enough to touch.
I had this problem too.
@@brianhilligoss nope they get warm, but with dual gear extruder it pushs on the rod that goes through the stepper motor almost bending it which probably causes more friction ,,, it was a good idea at the time but the heat transfers through it , i recommend putting old one back on but upgrading to direct drive
@@RichMantaray I switched to a bms dual gear clone. Works awesome. Have close to 200 hours already on it.
I so wanted to see you throw that little box.
Thank you for the video, but you went way too fast. Also when you clicked to change the setting number it turned light blue and was very difficult to read. Also did you have to save the settings you changed?
No, you don't need to save the changes to properly calibrate the new extruder, so when you reboot the machine it reverts to the old config and the work you did is wasted...
Come on, use your fucking brain. Of course you have to save the changes.
Yes i press to save But the value will be in sd card
@@Deses Yes i press to save But the value will be in sd card
Nice video. Thanks!
as a complete noob who has just ordered one of these machines what is the benefit of changing the extruder to two gears? all I can see from the video is it looks like it exudes slower? - cheers
read the comments..
1.The product material adopts brand-new imported aviation aluminum material
2.Double-gear and double-pneumatic joint extrusion structure, high squeezing force, ensure smooth feeding, not easy to lose steps
.
As far as I try it doesn't make a big difference.
This Dual extruder will work with TPU? Or just PLA? Thank you.
Print well in PLA materials.
For TPU I'll try it out.
@@craftphom168 yes please, cant wait to know it.
Usually they said only a direct drive extruder would work well with tpu... I hope that is wrong
@@estoylisto soft TPU doesn’t work very well with Bowden tubes. Has nothing to do with the extruder as such. You can mitigate by improving the Bowden tube - see Capricorn - or by converting to direct drive. And also, “doesn’t work very well” doesn’t mean “doesn’t work at all”, plus here are softer and harder TPUs. The harder TPUs can be printed with a stock ender 3 without too many issues.
what is your speed,?
Is there even a difference in print quality? To be honest I am doubting it.
I think it's no different.
Great video! I have the dual gear extruder, but my stepper motor has a press fit brass gear. How do I get that off first?
WD-40 and pliers and yes it is annoying.
Mine has too short of a shaft the set screws miss off the end
Very relaxing
Extruder metal dual gear OR BMG in ender 3 pro?
I think it's no different.
Does the kit come with the screwdrivers needed?
Didn't come with a screwdriver
Can you please show us how the motherboard is attached into the printer ?
And also how the plastic fan protection is attached to its base ?
Where did you buy this upgrade kit?
I bought from a dealer in Thailand.
@@craftphom168 do you have a link or was it a local shop?
@@squirrelzar
3Dprinter: www.in2real3d.com/
Facebook for Extruder: 3D Printer Korat
Are you Thai?
I bought one for my cr10, I think they will they work on the ender 3 pro as well as the ender3v2
For my ender 3 pro it doesn't work. Motor shaft is too short and i can't screw the gear
Same for my plain ender 3 but 2021 model.
Mind adding some details on the usefulness of this upgrade?
As far as I try it doesn't make a big difference.
LMAO you are under extruding by 3 or 4 mm and you don't bother to change the e-steps.
Is it better and required in your opinion?
Michael Vencio I think the print is the same. The only difference is Dual Gear is aluminum material.
it is needed if you don't want under extrusion!
@@GoldenJaguar3D And consistent filament flow
My suggestion is to get a bondtech or clone bmg extruder rather than this.
Can u try tpu with this dual gear please?
It not work, but I will try again
What do you think about this one?: ua-cam.com/video/hGR_CW_S3RY/v-deo.html
You left the coupler on for the dual gear. And for the main extruder you took it off. Which will give you different results.
Thank you Bro.
i don't get it, so you put the original main gear and put in into the dual gear extruder?
I changed a new main gear.
Don't see the difference between the stock and mod. Does not seem worth it.
In fact, I think the oem one looks somewhat better and cleaner.
the mod has dual gear drive, as opposed to single sided drive and a idler. This helps grip filament better(no slipping). Additionally the driven tooth portion is smaller, therefore giving your extruder a bit more torque to move filament. Also its only like $15, definitely worth it!
Those are some of my favorite screwdrivers!
A 11 minute video for something that should be 2..jeez
This extruder works great in the beginning, but will slowly grind itself to death. The steel parts wear out the alloy body.
The extra gear you added makes no improvement, since it is a passive gear. Only one gear is pushing, the new one will be only good for leaving tiny dents on the other side of the filament which would be a downgrade instead. Two gears pushing/pulling is something else.
No, it's not passive. It's geared to the first one. At 3:53 you can clearly see the gears that will interlock each other...
@@NunoRVOliveira You are right. Sorry, my mistake.
ul get even more better prints when u go on thingiverse and print out the direct drive upgrade :) ten times better no more stupid tube !!!
What is the thingiverse number? It's hard to figure out which upgrade you're referring to.
@@curryiguana 4555065 ...... must be in ABS or something that will take 107c temp and above
Why music plz stop this
10:47-10:52. Lol
Man this would of been the best vid yet on e steps for the v2 but you just had to fly through the menu screen.