Vacuum Desolder Gun - Duratool D00672
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
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● Description
Here's a quick review of the Duratool Desolder Station which you've seen in recent videos, and you've been asking me for a review so here's a quick run through of my experiences with it.
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“Top tip to keep your tip tip top.” You just made my day 😀
Yep a `must have`, I have had the same one for a few years now , would be lost without it, and its great that you show how to clean and maintain it, I would just add when you finish using it immediately tin and plug the the the hole on the soldering tip to prevent oxidization and failure of the tip.
What a great tool! The desolderer I mean.
I've been following your channel for about a year, but only recently realised how calm and soothing your videos actually are.
I'm sick of Brexit, Dashcams, Gender issues, Shaky phone videos, and all the negativity online these days, so thank you for being an oasis of calm in all that. I'm just hoping some day you'll get to restore a 48k Oric (my first computer). :)
Thank you, an Oric would be great to cover some time, often overlooked but I'm sure it has a story to tell
I just bought one of these, wow what a tool and a bargain at only £87 from CPC! I just removed all 8 lower ram chips from a Speccy 48k with ease. Normally that would be an absolute nightmare job. Four chips fell straight off the PCB, two needed a little coaxing and two needed a tiny bit of hot air and tweezers. But most importantly zero damage to the PCB. That wiggle technique certainly does the trick!
Just what I needed before trying out my new tool. Thanks for your efforts.
Welcome to day 1 of 5 videos in 5 days. All the "stuff" I want to show you that doesn't fit anywhere else. Here's a link to the item: amzn.to/2ReDbsa and a similar unit the ZD-915 amzn.to/2E0sgzS - And if you have a little more money check out Hakko's range. I hope this proves useful to you, and see you tomorrow for day 2 of "RMC Stuff Week" - Neil - RMC
I have the same tool, one tip, if you got solder stuck at the end that is near the grip, use a soldering iron with a needle solder tip and insert it a little bit to melt the solder then use the skewer to remove the solder.
since this is just a Hakko 808 clone a lot of the parts are interchangeable with the benefit being that parts hakko consider to be consumables are usually pretty cheap but a better quality e.g. ceramic fibre filters and glass chamber tubes.
808? I can't find that model on the Hakko web site. Is this an older item that's been replaced by something new?
oh yeah a while ago, its why theirs so many clones now, closest is probably fr-301
Ah. Thanks for the info! I looked at the FR-301. It appears to be an "all-in-one" unit. Unlike this one which has a separate station. I was hoping that Hakko had something similar to this one. I have a Hakko FX888D soldering station which I like. Surprised at the price difference between the Duratool D00672/ZD-915 and the FR-301.
I need this in my life! Great video!
I have one of these duratool desolder guns. I find the biggest problem is solder solidifies at the very end of the hot barrel and is quite hard to remove. If you remember to clean after use it works very well. I also have the other one the pumps with soldering iron built in. just recently I have stopped using these and now use lots of flux with solder braid and find this works best for me. I recently fixed a arcade PCB and removed at least 30 IC using flux and braid without lifting a single pad.
I've got a very similar model (other brand, though), bought here in Germany. Same problem with cleaning the glass tub! A fair amount of solder sticks to the little metal plate at the end of the tube. And it's not coming off at all. I think only heating it will help here, right? Or any other suggestions?
@@StefanWolfrum You just have to poke with the cleaning wire quite often and also keep the trigger down longer after you lift off the pad. It still clogs at the end of the metal tube so you can heat that with a soldering iron while pushing the cleaning wire inside.
@@DJlegionuk Oh, thanks for answering! Much appreciated! I meant the glass tube and the heavy amount of solder that clumps together at the far end where it collides with that small metal plate. Just in one heavy desoldering session I got a little "mountain" there which baked together with the spring. Had to desolder *that*! 😂
Its a great tool. I've been using a one cent coin half way down the spring that lets you get a little longer out of those filters. I also use a dry film lubricant (Birchwood Casey ) after cleaning. It's for firearms and airguns, no interest in guns but it does a great job on that little spring and the coin. The solder just falls off. I also use it the manual solder sucker too.
Nice, tips, I must try that lube trick. The solder really sticks to the bottom of the spring on mine.
Instead of a coin, have you tried a steel screen designed for eciggarettes/vapes? I've been using one of them and discovered that it lets more suction through, yet serves the same purpose as the coin
Sound cool. Will have to get my hands a few a try it out.
@@GameTechRefuge definitely worth a go, I found a noticeable difference from the coin, and they're pretty cheap too (and I do a lot of soldering because I fix computers for people in Fiverr). If you want I can find you the same size/weight that I use?
Cheers Terry. A link to the right one would be great. Thanks.
I have one of those as well (though mine is different "brand" - but looks identical). One problem that I keep having is that the solder cools down while inside the barrel. You can get it out by inserting the skewer and pushing it in, while heating the other end (the one normally inside the chamber) with a soldering iron.
The other problem is that the inner barrel got loose on mine. It's stuck to the rest of the body with some form of cement, but that thing just gave out. So the barrel is now loose, which makes removing the chamber and cleaning the thing a nightmare (plus the chamber itself is hard to remove as is - I've noticed that you've struggled with that yourself).
This is an awesome tool, but sadly severely lacking in build quality in my opinion.
Adding some steel wool to the glass tube helps to catch and solidify the solder before it reaches the cotton filter. It prolongs it's life significantly.
Got one of these for my birthday recently, this video was very helpful when putting the chamber back together!
Today I improved my simple solder sucker significantly by pulling some small rubber part taken from medicine dropper. It fits solder joint well and all vacuum works to remove liquid solder.
This desolder station have many brands:
Duratool
Kemot
ZD-915
Solder peak
Anesty ZD-915 and more
I use a Quick 201B. An expensive piece of equipment. But is priceless when it comes to repairs. The desolder syringe is garbage and if you are a novice will most likely cause damage to a board. A vaccum gun is the way to go for anyone who wants to get the best results. The Quick is about $500 but you don't need to buy one that expensive. RMCs one is fine too.
Back in 2016 I went with the Aoyue Int701A++ to do Hi-Def NES installs. It’s basically the same as the Int474A++ except they added a Hakko clone soldering iron with fume extractor function… which worked pretty well despite being the old T18 type instead of the modern cartridge T12 type.
It ended up being TERRIBLE for doing Hi-Def NES installs or anything else with plated thru-holes. Mine was the version with the AC pump which spools up way too slow. It ends up clearing the solder from one side, breaking the vacuum seal and heat bridge it has to pull solder from the other side and keep it molten. That means the solder on the opposite side solidifies before the pump builds up enough suction power to clear it.
My solution is to hold the trigger while pinching/kinking the hose so that the pump can spool up to maximum speed and pull air out of the rest of the hose. When the solder flows on both sides I release the hose (jerk it straight) so that max suction is applied instantly. I plan to add a trigger-operated solenoid so I can abuse the fume extractor function (keeps pump running to maintain suction). I struggled many years before developing that technique.
I’ve seen others prefer the AC pump as “more robust” than the DC models but what good is that if you can only use it on single-sided PCBs?!
My D00672 arrived yesterday, looking forward to trying it out! First job: Removing a whole bank of RAM from an IBM 5150 motherboard (9x 16pin DIL chips).
I have the same unit with a different brand. I like to hold the suction on when I lift the tool off the board, you can hear the motor speed up when airflow increases. I hope this will prevent some of the clogging of the tip-cylinder tube everyone seems to be worried about.
It's good work?
Metro Q make
I'd really love one of these vacuum desolderers. I have a squeeze-bulb type desolderer but it doesn't have temperature control and it seems to just continually heat up. I actually sucked the solder pads off of a couple of perf boards which, thankfully, were just homemade crap anyway.
We used to use Weller desoldering stations at work and used to put a piece of glass wool in the solder chamber to capture the solder and make cleaning It out a bit easier and quicker.
yay, hot tips to keep your tip tip-top! Great alliteration!
*a top tip
This is a great looking tool. I had a need for something similar when working on a c64 motherboard, but given I was unlikely to need a desolder gun in the future, I went even cheaper and brought their heated solder sucker - the D01849 - which I found worked really quite well with the proviso that without a temperature control I felt it was getting a bit too hot for my liking - risking damage to the mainboard - so while it did save time, I still had to do some desoldering in batches to let the tool cool a little. It also has no power switch which was an annoyance - but for under £10 - it was still well worth the price.
Got one delivered today, excellent piece of kit, thanks for the video
Great stuff I hope it makes life easier for you 🖒
Top tip to keep your tip tip top. Like it!
Since I saw this on the Amiga 1500 video, this has been on my personnal Christmas list ever since and if Santa does not deliver this to me in a few months time - I will be one very unhappy panda.
Ahh the super duper pooper scooper solder sucker upper! Looks like a serious piece of kit, and way too good for me! 😁
Thanks for the review. I already have the same model, which I bought after seeing Jan Beta using one.
I don't do an awful lot of desoldering, but I still think it's money well spent, especially as I got a very good price on mine.
I have the same, and I use makeup cleaning pat’s and cut it to the right size.
drill some small holes in the schim in front off the second filter and use a small ball with not so fine steel wool.Move the fan from the back off case to the top off powersupply inside the case.all this goes for this model and other ZD stations no matter the brand they stamp on them.I have a ZD-9815 witch has a better gun.
I got one of these, its not in the same quality as my old Weller one, but does the job well and is good value in comparison ;-)
Duratool is an own label brand from Farnell (CPC, Newark) so they are likely to be better priced (cpc.co.uk has it on sale at £84 compared with £100 on Amazon).
Well done Mark thanks that should help people to save some ££
Great review, must get one!
Don't make the mistake I did and accidentally drop the vacuum chamber on the concrete floor. It's glass. I bought two spares from an eBayer in Spain. Also, I routinely run the cleaning rod through it after doing a row of pins (7-10), as I've had it cool and clog the channel just before it goes into the vac chamber.
I may have said this before but I can desolder a 188 Pin EISA bus socket quicker with a hand tool that my brand new Hakko. But I admit the recoil of the hand unit can damage pads.
I see this as definitely more useful for things like IC removal, but maybe a questionable investment (depending on your budget) for simpler jobs. That reminds me...I at least need a new manual solder sucker or see if I can fix my old one.
I went for a KATSU 140W Desoldering Rework Station ESD for £79 on amazon.co.uk very similar unit but I preferred the idea of the gun holder not being attached to the main unit on the Katsu branded one. Not sure if the ESD bit make much difference, I think the actual gun it is identical the model shown here.
Best way I have seen to take out glass tube yet most show from the rear after release of the catch but from the front MAgIC than you.
Picked one up around 6 months ago, why didnt get one years ago! Dont think twice about pulling 40 pin ICs anymore.
Hmmmm ... I think I need one! Great video, short and very informative.
Thanks and Greetings from Doktor64!
sounds a bit saucy when cleaning the shaft with the suction and penetration with the rod to clean the insides
you're just hearing what you want to hear David XD
It's a nice handy tool but I still prefer my solder pump. Nice short vlog Neil 😀
Too bad this particular model isn't available in the USA. The old link you provided for Amazon is no longer valid.
Keep your tip in the vise!
Happy Thanksgiving Day from Canada.
And to you, may the maple syrup flow generously upon your pancakes
Not for me, sadly; I am diabetic.
That's not terribly expensive, even. And probably better than the 5€ heated solder sucker thingy I'm currently using. Just you regular plunger thing with a heated tip. Decent enough for small works... :) Looking forward to this series. ((Was the audio a bit off?)
Is it me, or is it the fact that BBC could use a good man like Neil for it's technology section on their news program. 8^)
Anthony..
This is the ZD-915 (Zhongdi)
Yay, I've just picked one. Quick Q: what temperature do you tend to use? Thanks.
I ordered this desolder gun and tried it today. I removed an atari 2600jr cardridge connector. Works like a charm! (anyone has a spare cardridge-connector laying around?)
Great video. Ive purchased one of these through your affiliate link whats the ideal temperature required for desoldering a chip like you did on the Amiga. Also can flux liquid be used instead of paste?
Great review. I believe I have the same unit, but branded Dinotools or something like that. I now use a stronger double pump gun. How much of a difference does this flux make? I haven't used it, but in the video it seems to help quite a bit?
Hey Phil thanks! Flux makes a big difference in getting old solder to flow. As you can see I slap flux paste all over the place which is just a personal preference because I can see where I've put the paste, but you can also apply it in liquid form, and it cleans off easily with IPA after working on the board. Give it a try.
@@RMCRetro Thanks, I will get myself some for future projects :)
It's going to be as amazing for you as when I learned to use an emptied-out pen to remove those damn push pins from you hehehe
Flux is like magic. Also available in pen form which I quite like. Don't bother with "Flux Remover" go with IPA as Neil suggested.
I have a nice home-made board with a nice coat of sticky residue to prove that point ... :P
Charles Thatisall Nice, good to know :D
@@philscomputerlab Flux is great to have on hand for soldering as well as the Flux in the solder core evaporates off if you work the joint too much and you need to add more to get a good joint.
Finally going to get one of these for my birthday :D
Also known as the ZD-915 - will make life in electronics rework a breeze!
Question - what temperature do you find ideal for removing stuff both on, and off major ground planes?
Will this station satisfactorily desolder lead free soldering?
yes it will
Since there seem to be a lot of soldering experts in the comments, seems like as good a place as any to ask for a tip! Basically my question is, how do you remove solder from inside pin holes without a fancy vacuum gun?
I'm a complete soldering noob and I need to desolder a chip from a PCB. I don't have a de-soldering gun like this, just a plain pump. My problem is the pump sucks! (Figuratively. If it sucked literally, that would be great) It just doesn't seem to work well. The pump's tip is way too big to fit around the pins - its outer edge hits the adjacent pins - so I have to hold it at an angle to the pins instead of right on top. With a lot of effort, it does remove some solder, but there's always solder left INSIDE the pin holes, which is enough to keep the chip's feet firmly in place. I tried using de-soldering wick and flux, I also tried adding fresh solder, nothing works. There's always soldler left inside the holes. How do I get this thing out?
You've done all the usual stuff. My suggestion would be to get a pack of very fine needles - that's how I removed stuck solder that was stubborn as that.
However you should be able to get it out just with heat and new solder? Are you sure you used enough? You should be able to use the new stuff.to "grab" the old.stuff when.liquid and then pull it out with the new you're removing.
Thanks Terry. I'm not sure I used enough - I'll try again with more. I'm also not sure I'm using the pump properly but I'll keep at it.
got the same unit very good for the money, wonder how i managed before
Great review, thinking about buying similar one, does the solder get stuck in the tube on this model?
Again thanks for a great review👍🏻
I haven't had that problem so far. Thanks for watching
Make you own filters if you construct a punch
Currently unavailable
We don't know when or if this item will be back in stock.
Would love one but why are they so expensive and the uk link is dead
The only real downside is ordering from China and having it take forever to ship. Otherwise, this is one of the best tools you can own if you repair a lot of through-hole electronics. You can replace the capacitors in a C64 breadbin in 5 seconds flat (or in even less time if it's a 64C short board).
Every time I empty the cylinder and replace it the gun loses its suction. Any ideas?
Sir, zd915 and zd985 between different??
Which is better work
Can someone recommend a US equivalent?
ZD915 from Marlin P. Jones Associates, about $120.
About a year ago, I bought a cheap Chinese desolder gun as shown here:
ua-cam.com/video/fgT9LO8lqyQ/v-deo.html
I have to say, for the £80 cost, it's amazing. I've had no solder clogging issues, it comes with a great stand, and gets the job done like something costing many times more. If you're on a budget, it's hard to beat. On the down side there is no power switch and the mains flex could be better quality, was supplied with the wrong plug for UK, the instructions are terrible too. No show stoppers there though.
Thanks for this, been looking in to one for a while, though, I'm doing mostly SMD I'm not sure it would be so useful compared to hot air, I didn't notice a mention of surface mount components in the video, do you think that's the case? Be well!
you're much better off with hot air for SM stuff, it's wise to have both tools though since higher voltage caps are very rarely SM but still need changing from time to time.
Ye.. thanks! I will have to save up a bit for this :)
What kind of flux do you use here?
TermoPlasty flux paste
The sellers in those links don't ship to the US.
Ah sorry about that I'll see if I can find some US links. Hopefully you have enough info to search for them 👍
Anyone can help? My hakko station didnt suck.. But blow...
Why is the sound on this video so sub-par? great video nonetheless
You'll notice my on cam audio is quite "wet" this week as my lapel cable is broken. I've got a new one so that will be back to normal next week. Thanks for watching
So I'm wondering: does it suck, or not? ;)
I see what you did there
The design of solder capture chamber on this unit looks awful. Having that big spring run through it to hold the metal plate and filter at the back just seems shoddy. When you took the filter out of the chamber it had areas covered with particles of solder which quickly clogs up the filter greatly reducing the vacuum at the tip. The design should prevent this but clearly doesn't and no wonder you have to replace the filter so often. I have a Hakko FR-301 which has a conical metal part at the end of the chamber held in place by a rubber fitting and is not in direct contact with the filter. In my fairly significant use so far of this tool all of the solder gets stopped by the cone and all I ever see on the filter is a slight discoloration - absolutely no solder particles on the filter at all. The vacuum has never deteriorated regardless of how long my desoldering sessions have been. It also includes all temperature control within the desoldering gun itself so no bulky temperature control station to contend with. Yes, it's more expensive than the Duratool but you get what you pay for.
Early ZD-915 units had same spring like HAKKO, this is the improved version, and it really is. Removing solder from that old conical spring was really hard, this one is much easier to clean. If you do not use so much flux, filter can last for very long. As about the clogging problem at the end of the pipe - if it happens it means that you ar operating at too low temperature (I'd recommend not getting lower than 340*C) and/or you disengage the pump to quickly (let it run for a second after desoldering of a pad is done).
Where can I get the little felt filtery bits? I can't find them anywhere for a decent price, and the ones I can find come with other parts that I don't need.
Try here: uk.farnell.com/duratool/d00759/filter-for-zd-915/dp/1516019 - Have a search for "ceramic filter paper"
Thank you.
This is the same problem I have. Impossible to find the filters at a non-extortion price. The link above is great for the UK but the US store will charge you $20.00 + the order because it is coming from the UK. I think I will take the filter to a craft store and see about making my own. I am in the process of looking for alternatives.
You sound a bit off mike in this video, not up to your usual audio standards.
The lapel mic cable was broken. You'll find it's back to normal on Fridays release when a replacement arrived 🖒
What temperature do you commonly use?
About 350c works for me with liberal splashings of flux
Thank you ... I think I need one. :) Thanks also for the great content. Love your videos.
Don't go lower than 340*C, on multilayer board, especially on ground planes and lead-free solder 380-400*C may be required. Usable temperature range is 340-420*C.
Good point, I was using 380 on the A1500 at some points with its stubborn ground plane but generally I default to 350
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