Seize the Day! DO NOT Lube Brakes- Grease Jacking 2000 Chevy GMT800 Silverado 5.3 4.8
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- Опубліковано 27 сер 2024
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As an east coast Canadian, I can tell you from experience, if you don't lube the slides, you will be without brakes inside of 6 months.
That however is an excessive amount of grease. It's generally better to have the brakes cleaned and lubricated every so often too.
im in saskatoon , same thing as well
Yes, regular maintenance will not hurt anything. Just looking at the discs on this one would have told the owner something !
I grease the both sides of the hardware Connecticut dosen't fuckaround with the salt and spray
All forms of lube break down over time especially when it's exposed to heat from the rotors and pads, just add some brake pad and road dust and you have all the ingredients of making a cake.
Take the above and then add some rusted flaky metal that's constantly exposed to salt air and salted roads, 4-5 months of winter makes the underside of a 5 year old vehicle look like its 12 years old. I know what you say to be an accurate statement
The bottom line, what you seen in the video is typical / expected vehicles condition dictated by the topography and climate. Seeing backing plates rust off is no surprise of any given vehicle for its age from eastern Canada. This is all unchartered waters for Ray, as he is not normally exposed to many vehicles that are owned by snow birds from our neck of the woods.
@@IR-nq4qv definitely. This truck is immaculate compared to most of the stuff on our roads. My father-in-law is a mechanic. They have a couple trucks every year that fold in half on the lift. Goes into the shop a Chevy and came out looking like the inspiration for the Tesla Cybertruck🤣🤣
As a tech in Norway, seeing a lot of rust due to roadsalt, I use a thin layer of graphite grease _UNDER_ the mounting hardware. The problem is often that rust forms between the bracket and the hardware, pinching the brake pad. The grease helps prevent rust forming.
dry lube? Whats your reasoning? I use ATF, its got detergents to treat the metal.
As a tech in Canada, I use anti-seize under the hardware and then the normal high temp brake grease only on the pads, not on the hardware/clips so it doesn't have so much dust and junk sticking to it.
I am 65 yrs old. I've done many different things ocupationally, from food service to factory work, to the drilling rigs as well as most aspects of the construction industry. I was gifted as a young 18 years old, to be a family friend to a family whose dad did auto mechanics his whole life beginning in the '40's. I learned from him how to work on and maintain my own vehicle, often having the full use of his fully equipped shop. Point being that I hear a lot of the very same tid bits of knowledge coming from the Rainman as I did from that much older gentleman. Ray has a gift of teaching detail and elaborates like a professor delivering a lecture. I know that I'm rambling, but him demonstrating body mechanics that make things so much easier to accomplish put it over the top. Would wager that he had the right mentor. 😊
Never seize on your break bolts is a good thing. Never seize on the back side of your buddies door handle PRICELESS!!!😂😂
Shop jokester ! Pretty funny -
Better yet is to not break the BRAKE bolts
Stupid spell check!
And...windshield wipers.😊
oh its that guy who thinks its funny to make everyone elses day even worse
If you live in the rust belt area, you absolutely need to lubricate the slider on the bracket otherwise you will have seized brakes pad in less than 20k KM so roughly 12k miles
Excellent explanation! This IS a very good video!
good morning, ray. im very glad to be here. dont forget to have yourself a great day
I think it depends on the conditions in which you drive your car. I grew up in AZ and never greased it, was never an issue. I live on the east coast now and if I don't put a very light coating of anti-seize on them they rust in place. I put the lightest of light coats in it though.
Eric O always does this in the land of rust and corruption...
Exactly, thin film is best, apply, and wipe most off again. Leaving a thick film is bad, you want just the slightest hint of lube to provide rust protection.
Exactly, I even go as far as to smooooo some grease all around the bleeders so the next guy can just wipe it off, twist and hopefully do the same for the next guy.
Exactly, in outback Australia the last thing you want it grease around anything. Here in the UK you want something, I use brake grease, particularly under brake hardware.
The pitfalls are over-doing it, and even the type of product. I finally settled on silicone grease after some of the "dedicated" brake lube products on the market drying out, getting tacky and then binding up slides and guides. And marine anti-seize is another ally. Just personal experience from over 30 years of working on my own junk across the rust belt.
Northeast Ohio here... If you do not grease your brake pads if you live up here, they will not last 6 months, especially over the winter.
Greasing the back of the pad is fine, just make sure you use the correct stuff.
Legend has it, Ray went home lookin like Tin Man!
For us folk who have been here a while we can speak Ray by now. So when Ray says the wrong word we all know what he meant.
When I was a brake tech at a major retail auto shop we were required to use moly lube on all of the metal to metal part because customers complain about noise if you don't, but that being said moly is expensive and you only use the lightest of a skim coat, and yes I saw a lot of uneven wear with both lubed(incorrectly), and unlubed alike. As far as backing plates we removed them up here in salt land as there was documentation that they served no real purpose except to hold salt and snow into the rotor. As always Ray keep making good videos
I did see some documentation mentioning that backing plates help with air flow / cooling, or something to that effect. However, I can see your point also, most backing plates I have seen are pretty rusted. One job I did I cleaned it up and rubbed in a rust preventative lubricant onto the surfaces - best I could do at the time.
What I like about watching you, is even things I have worked on more than once. You throw in a tip here a there. I didn't think of and was not in the service manual. I do most of my own repairs because of past Experience. But I do wise I lived close by you. You do great work. And Seem to have a conscious.
Thanks Ray for taking such good care for us Canadians ! much appreciated
What day was summer last year in Canada ?
@@2pugmansummer, never heard of it.
@@2pugman "summer" is such a subjective term up here. Lol.
The seasons are more like winter, less winter, and black flies.
😂😂@@2pugman
Fluid Film on all that fresh clean metal and backing plates will deny rust from forming.
Fluid Film is AMAZING!!!! I thank Eric O. every time I use it!!!
@@K.Kelly87 I spray vehicles once a year with a spray gun and compressor using Woolwax underneath and Fluid Film inside all panels. Zero rust.
Gotta clean pins really good and apply correct high temp grease
Yes you gotta use brake grease can’t just use whatever grease you have laying around
The reason the inboard pads wore unevenly is due to the grit jamming in as described in the video but these brakes are prone to this problem because the slides are on the outside of the arc and stop moving freely. Only the inside arc can still react to the piston pressure when this happens. On smaller brake systems the pads move within channels better centered within the inner and outer arcs and less likely to wear unevenly due to "grease jacking".
Thanks again for another good teaching moment with the greasing of shims and the end result.
If it's driven in winter here, you must grease (with the correct caliper slide grease) the pins and/or slides. If you don't they WILL rust tight. Actually even with grease they rot tight, just not as soon. Also the pad abutments need the same treatment. Nothing like having to use a dead blow hamner to remove the pads. It rusts between the bracket and the stainless wear/anti squeak shims, expands and lock the pads up tight. Then a few minutes with a diamond wheel to grind the rust away before reassembly. If it's been driven in any of that liquid brine crap, good luck. Fun also, have you ever had to use a 10 lb sledge to get the rotors off. Good times, good times.😵💫
This is just wrong. Are you actually watching the video? or just commenting over the title. The areas shown in the video should not EVER be greased. I live in Michigan, and have never greased that, and my brakes have always worked great. Pads wear perfectly evenly. You obviously need to grease inside the slider pins behind the rubber boots, but no grease should go on the shims where its exposed.
I used to be a tech at a Mazda dealership. Mazda specified copper based lubricant on the ears of the pads, with the "black" brake lubricant on the back of the pads. I've done it that way ever since on every car i've done brakes on and have never had an issue or noise. I'm in the northeast rust belt, so it's a must in the winter months also.
if you live in the east near Parish NY upstate NY you sure need to grease them with sanded roads and salt in the winter it needs it or they will be rust and build corrosion solid with no movement Eric O will tell you that
Ray, I would like to add that I think the slide pins were over greased (see 4:12), and the hydraulic action of the pin in the sleeve caused that brake rotor wear. Can't compress a liquid. Love your channel and I can't wait for another hurricane to see how you manage!
Nicely done Ray!
Good morning Ray. Great brake job and explaining why you don’t grease the outside on the slides. Wow the vacuum plate is toast. You should never be lonely Ray we are all here.
Vacuum plates? LMAO
backing plate ....
I guess I sucked on that commit. I must had been auto corrected did not even notice. Thanks for you noticing.
I like backing my vacuum plates.
we always lube the slides but there was a day when we did not but that was many many years ago in time you learn ,thanks for the very good video
Wild timing for this. I bought me a 02 Silverado and I'm in the process of pulling the wheels off, changing all four brakes for piece of mind and cleaning the rust. This gives me an idea what to expect for the front. 😁 Love your content
Good information and technique.
As soon as you put that wire wheel to the rust, I swear I could taste this video.
The boys are back in town to commingle with Ray
No, you don't grease slide pins. You lubricate them with Sil-Glide. They come from the factory with lubrication for a reason. To ensure even brake pad application and wear, the caliper must freely move on the slides. If you have dry slides, the inside pad will wear more and faster than the outside pad, or the caliper can bind on one pin and twist, causing an angle wear on both pads. If you live in a desert, then you probably have no worries. But in wet and salty environments, they will get contaminated and rust will cause them to freeze up.
And dissimilar metals require a dielectric barrier in between them or they will corrode (an exchange of ions) rapidly. Grease can be a barrier between two surfaces, as can tape, paint, or plastic.
I just got a new tube of Sil-Glyde in my stocking! I had been using the CRC brake and caliper grease for years, but then I got a Subaru with rubber tips on the slide pins. I had to take the brakes back apart just days after doing them because they were seizing up and found that I almost couldn't get the pins back out. It turns out that regular brake grease will cause the rubber to expand! Sil-Glyde is the answer and it's the only thing I use on brakes now.
Yeah, you do grease slide pins. That's what Sil-Glide is. Lol
Up here in Canadia it is a must to put a very thin coat of brake lube on the sliders. Actually, after cleaning and before installing the pad shims, small amount of grease, install the shims, then a thin coat of grease, then slide in the pads. Helps prevent calipers etc from seizing.
"Down here" in New England, we even 'lube' our (leather) boots. Well, if you let lube extend to things like mink oil...
A few weeks ago I had a slide locked into my caliper and I noticed my rear rotor (driver side) wasn't completely squished by the pads and I could see a bit of rust build up on that rotor. Since I'm now used to your videos, I started wondering what could be the issue and my first thought was: "There's probably some air in that circuit" but then I remembered since it was doing it only on one rotor it had most likely something to do with the caliper itself. Turns out as you once suggested in previous videos, I took apart the whole thing and I noticed the lower slide was severely stuck. Had to use a blowtorch to remove it and grease it again. I changed the pads and I need to change the rotor since it only applied pressure on one side of the pad and ate the rotor. But I gotta thank you because you saved me some precious hours of diagnostics thanks to your videos (because I'm new to car repairs) and I learned a lot of things from you. I will definitely stay subscribed to your channel, it's like a gold mine of knowledge to me even though we don't have many trucks here in France, it's still valuable knowledge because it's not that different. It's basically the same but bigger. Thank you again for your videos and keep up the great work ! You're a real helping hand.
I always put copper slip grease on brake components due to the rain and salt on the roads here in the UK. Also helps reduce brake squealing.🏴😁
I concur... A little grease under the shims is sufficient...
This was a good video. There are many good comments below suggesting how you adjust the use of grease to the environment for your vehicle.
Quick note from Manitoba. I'd never put brakes together without lube. But it has to be brake lube. And only a dab on the bits that actually move. I try to service my brakes twice a year, to, while putting on winter tires. Petroleum chassis grease on/in brakes will turn to asphalt. Never-seize on non-moving parts is an excellent idea. Gonna try that.
I agree with Ray 100%. That grease turned into cement.
I could smell the dust, rust and grease when he started to wire wheel the hub
Living in the GTA, it's a pick-your-poison situation. As a DIYer, every 6 months when doing winter tire switchover, I pull the pads, clean and lube it all.
You might have educated the Yanks that GTA stands for Greater Toronto Area. In Florida the might not even know where Toronto is. Well maybe Ray does because he works on cars from there.
I do the same here in hogtown but just clean them up. No grease in the silver!
If anyone Lives in Rust Belt--Eric-- always has good ideas as he is a Mechanic in New York and has to Deal with Rust Everyday...
Oh I always make sure to put a coat of grease on everything. Calipers, pads, rotors, bolts, everything. Especially the outsides of my tires too
For BMWs as reference i recently took apart some F30 brakes with 35 miles on them.
This specific kind has no shims and from factory there is a small amount of grease on it, however really not much.
my daddy been workin on cars since he was 12 in 1963, he said to put a tiny amount of grease on small patch of pad bracket that contacts the rail. But he said that was before they started using them stainless rail covers.
I’ve never had a problem using Permatex Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant. Very light coat and just on the pad ears. It is a grease that does not gum up over time and even with brake dust sticking to it, it remains super slick. Good for up to 3,000 degrees Fahrenheit. Great for slide pins and piston faces as well.
im from the uk and this exact same thing happened to me with the exact same marks on my 6 month old brembo discs and pads (its common over here to put a little copper grease where the pads sit top and bottom of the carrier its how i was trained too) i actually thought and so did some of my mates that it was the slider pins i may have not greased enough with silicon grease however when i replaced the discs and pads i found like yours they was plenty in there we all scratched our heads and couldn't figure it out even an older mechanic who's retired now looked at them and scratched his head and thought the same as us i will show them this video too they may find it interesting.
Very good forensics on the brake-caliper greasing issue Ray.
That's why those shims are nice shiny zinc anodized material. Pads can slide happily against them. My factory supplied shop manual, also advises against greasing the slide pins. Both the pin and hole to be impeccably clean, and water used as the only lubricant in assembly, to assist the pins through the rubber boots. Not my words, but the factory manual.
Yes, I use AGS Silglide. Everyone says the Permatex Purple is bad on slide pins especially in the northern corrosion regions. Nothing on shims, something on non-shim equipped brackets.
Live in the rust belt and have been greasing those brake parts for 35 years and have never had anything like that. Difference is I use very minimal (basically just putting a sheen on the metal) where as whoever here was apparently gooping it on liberally.
Great video thanks for sharing.
I have never lubed the slides, I do practice hard braking every so often to ensure their correct operation
A great video that clearly shows why you never lube the slides! And as a east coaster, I have never lubed and will NEVER lube the slides! If you do, learn from this video of what NOT to do with the slides!! Lube the pins, not the slides!
The comments generated by the provocative videos are most interesting, and insightful! Opinions based on actual real life experience are the most valuable! Keep em’ coming!😊
🍿
I agree, no lube on the shims! To all of you who think that they rust and cause the brakes to fail, you need to buy better quality brake parts. Most of the shims that I've seen are chrome plated and don't rust.
I'd like to also point out that all of the components that close to the friction surface will heat up and boil away any and all moisture even during the coldest Canadian night.
Only grease the slide rods, nothing else! :-)
I grease mine because its normal metal on metal. no fancy stainless clips.
Slide pin holes get silicone grease.
Back of brake pads get copper paste because that stuff is kinda useless and i need to get rid of it somehow.
Mating surfaces like wheel hub gets fluid film spray
Velly, velly, intelsting.
I grease mine very lightly. I did have some slightly uneven wear when I did brakes on my old S10 a couple years ago. I never knew why.... so even tho I don't think that was the issue, I'll be investigating next time I'm in there.
Good food for thought Ray 👍
In New York we don’t grease the top of the hardware but we do put a little bit where it sits on the bracket
There was enough grease on those shims for 4 brake jobs. I only put a VERY LIGHT coating and never had any issues.
Nothing is the rule for those who'd use too much. Just a little, so parts look like they're wet. Same with slide pins.
Just when I thought I knew how to change disk brakes…..I’ve been greasing the slides and I like how you “compressed “ the piston with the screw driver.
I put a little grease and then wipe it off. This leaves a thin coat that just prevents rust and corrosion, but not enough to turn attract dirt and turn to mud.
I an a BIG fan of never seize. Because I usually follow myself on repairs.
i liked the spider web comming off the front
155th! HOWDY! Good Thursday morning Ray and the wife unit. And a huge SHOUTOUT to the new employees. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
Had the same problem on my 2000 Chevy Express 1/2 ton, used a flat file to flatten the surface and applied some Never Seize on the slides and has been OK for 6yrs + 50k miles
new yorker here; I lube the exterior of the shim and underneath it as well (and they still rust). my regular customers (depending how heavy their foot is) usually need brakes every 2 years or less. the rotor surface usually rusts before the pads can "rust jack" (so I'm replacing pads and potentially calipers at this point anyways).. the biggest preventative to the calipers rusting and causing a sticky pad is probably just a regular wash when the salt comes out. I don't even bother replacing backing plates on anything unless the customer cares, they are just going to rot off again...
I have never put grease on the pad slides not in MI for 30 years and in PA for 15. Never had a problem yet but I also service my own brakes and inspect them every other oil change along with tire rotation...
Living in Ontario Canada I brush on a tiny bit of brake lube on all sliders. My original ones were so rusted I couldn’t believe the brakes even worked, but they did squeel the odd time the final week before I replaced everything on my everday driver 2010 VW Golf. After that and a bleed my brakes are better than when it was brand new.
here in canada we clean under the shims and lubricate to avoid rust jacking. and only lube the pad where it contacts to shim to avoid lube jacking. recommend brake pad services every 1.5years or so to keep everything functioning properly
Worked at a Ford dealer for 20 years and, yes they're dry from the factory. Because of that we constantly repaired stuck pads,,,,,,,on one year old vehicles with a few thousand miles on them. They had been through exactly one winter.
We rarely replace brake shields due to rust, since in 3 or 4 years they'd be gone again anyway. Just need to be sure the part between the knuckle and bearing to serve as a shim. Plus, your chances of getting the hub bearing out of the knuckle without ruining it are slim to none, that's once you heat and get each of the bolts out, if the head of the bolts aren't rusted down to a 10mm circle. Man I'm happy to be retired, lol! 21:29
Keep in mind that old school brake calipers did not use shims, all slides had to be lubed. Here in California I can see not greasing shims from now on. At 70 yrs it's never to old to learn new ways. I will still be lubing my 70 Era brake calipers.
Thanks Ray for this very informative video, on what to do and what not to do, and what to look for.
Graphite doesn't collect junk. Blaster Dry Lube for the win, yes!
I'm in eastern Ontario/western Quebec and I NEVER lube the pad wear surface but I DO lube UNDER the shims, road grim always jams up if you lube the pad rubbing surfaces. I service the brakes for my customers in the spring when I install the summer tires and the same in the fall
I grease the slides, but I also clean everything up first and I don't use copious amounts. It only takes a little.
Ray, I'm glad you showed me this problem. I will never grease those parts. Thank you for this lesson.
I apply a heavy coat of silicone spray lubricant to the rotors and pads to keep them from squeaking. Works like a charm!! 👌🏻👨🏻🔧
You have no idea what you are talking about. Everyone knows to use heavy marine grease on rotors and pads!
@@scotts4125 hahaha! Well played sir. I stand corrected
@@fastbreakr lol
Too funny
I do on cars that don't have springs to push the pads back out. I also use antiseize instead of grease
Love your post!! With this situation, I think it’s like a doctor seeing a patient in the ER. When most mechanics get a vehicle, they are getting it on the worst day of its life at that point. It possibly hasn’t followed any maintenance schedule. The work may have been done by a DIYer who is only doing the work to save money and they are following directions as they understand them. Most vehicle manufacturers in their maintenance guides tell you to lube the guide pins. They also give a recommendation of what type of lube to use as well and people use what’s cheap or available. So while I agree there is an issue in your face with this question. I also think you answer it yourself when you say that the suspension system on that vehicle is lacking lubrication and maintenance. So I say you follow the manufacturer recommendations with maintenance schedule being the lead off because brakes should be changed and checked to maintain health of entire braking system.
best thing about canadian winter, i keep my beer outside my window on a planter ledge, and it keeps it nice and cold but not frozen.
Morning Ray
You don’t want grease if you live somewhere dusty, turns into cutting paste. If you live there in the dust, a couple of coats of a dry film silicon will help keep things mobile.
Eric O would agree with you, and he lives in the rust belt of New York. Outside of the shims should stay clean, under the shims - a touch of grease to prevent rust jacking
I've seen that wear pattern changing out new non-greased brakes here in Michigan. It's either rust or grease build up for us up here lol
I've run into this on my cars where mechanics slob grease all over the hardware and do nothing on the bracket side. worst of both because the rust builds up on the bracket and "jacks" the pad... either to or away from the rotor. Either way, it's uneven, and if it's the "away" side, you also lose a lot of braking force.. that never seize on the bracket in the video is actually smart, but the grease... nah.
...But that's the main reason why you really see it with or without grease, it's more to do with the bracket than the hardware... i think people confuse it to be the other way around because the grease holds onto all that garbage as it comes off/out
No one thinks the backing plate is pointless? 😅
COMMERCIAL VEHICLE TECH AT MERCEDES BENZ HERE, absolutely no grease to be applied on any caliper bracket or brake pad. Only grease we use is silicone in the boot of the slide pin. If you don’t completely sand all the rust and dirt and build up off the brackets you’ll definitely get a brake pad stuck in the holder condition and overheat the brakes which in return will squeal. I’ve seen where grease actually damages it causing the boot on thepiston on the caliper to swell, too much grease causing the pad to stick, grease being compressed between the brake pad and rotor doing what you see in this video. Or it completely seizes hardware when mixed with dirt and preexisting rust. Really it’s about how good of a brake job you do. I personally use no lube with no issues and live in NY
This is a good lesson in Geography as well. Ontario (where this vehicle is licensed) is a very large province. You get areas, like the Ottawa Valley and Eastern Ontario that get clobbered in snow and temps where road salt is very effective and used a lot. You get into Northern Ontario, tons of snow, but much colder temperatures where road salt is useless, so they use other chemicals and or sand. As you head South and Southern Ontario, much less snow and more moderate temperatures, so they have to use a lot less salt. The province is very diverse, some areas you are allowed to use studded tires, and other areas not. This vehicle is in amazing shape for 23 years old.
Lived in Canada for a lifetime and doing the family brakes since dissatisfaction with mechanics. Ironically my only problem scenario was with antisieze! Using a good silicone brake greasa solved the problem and has worked for decades on my sliding pins. I've always ragged out the old stuff applied a very light amount silicone before reinstalling. In your video I was unimpressed with the overuse of grease observed. I think this is what caused the problem and generally use antisieze anywhere near the brakes since it can attract all kinds of road buildup causing the condition you were dealing with. Life in Canada!
In Germany on most of the containers of antiseize you can read the explicit advice not to use it with brake systems. I prefer permatex purple lube or ATE plastilube without any issues in salty and snowy Bavarian winters 😊
I used a little of copper paste (anti seize) in the slides when I did the front brakes on my car. I will check it
I live in Southeast KS and I dont grease the sliders on my rigs. My 86 Dodge pickup doesnt have pins, the caliper rides on the slider itsself. Only one pad (inner) rides on the slider. I just make sure the groove is clean and slam it back together. - Jamie
im from south michigan in past i seen many people do this diy jobs they looked same way had to replace the works to get it correct
rust is the dust from iron oxidizing so you are correct when you called it dust.
The di-electric grease goes under the stainless abutment clip after the bracket ways have been relieved of all the rust that jacked it and seized it in the first place.. Also, clean, wire brush/wheel the slide pins and clean the pin hole with a drill appropriate to clean the grease and rust out, not oversize it.. On calipers that have pins going thru rubber slides like old Dodge pickups, peel the rubber sleeve out and get all the rust out from behind with something like a sanding drum or small flap drum on a die-grinder, again not grinding oversize, clearing out the rust only... Clear silicon di-electric tune-up grease resists high temp and washout while not reacting with rubber to degrade or swell like some of the fancy coloured brake lube I suspect caused by the dyes in it.. A bit of this lube in the freshly cleaned bore and on the rubber will help it go back in as well as help seal and keep the salty water out for a bit longer. Never(always)-seize is good for lubing mating steel parts on drum brakes, like it was made for... Has no place anywhere near discs with the exception of the center register on ones that like to seize. Lock-tite blue on caliper bracket bolts, near proper torque, not slammed in ratatatatatatatatat... seals the threads and keeps the salty water out while still being quite removable... I've both seen them come loose with never-seize and also be so tight they stripped the head b/c of some meatfist with an impact gun installed it... I spend far too much time fixing other ppls junk to have to re-do mine annually, here in the rust belt S.Ont. lol.
Keep up the informative videos Ray, I'm sure they've helped out lots of ppl over the years. It seems the weird problems find you like they find me!
Hey Ray I love the joke at the end....I drive a beater pickup and winter is coming....It might look good in silver lol.... Or maybe copper! Lol great video and I only use the thinnest layer of high temp never seize mostly from Locktite, or Permatex if I grab that one first! I won't use grease of any kind in upper Midwest. I used grease for a long time but have found after switching over the past dozen years, if you rub the never seize on real good like a working girl puts on mascara..... But keep it real thin... When the pads need changed it may be mostly gone but the metal is not rusted and the slides are working fine. Haven't experienced any pad jacking since. Thanks Ray. Great video! J Pol.
The pins are always lubed up Ray. The ears of the pads need a SMALL amount of grease. Some clown at a Canadian Tire gooped on the grease and caused this issue. I ALWAYS put a small amount of grease on the ears of the pads so that they can slide on the rails of the pad carrier!
Good day to you Ray.
Love your videos. From a retired mechanic.
To grease or not to grease: that is the question! Greasing shim plates is something mainly depending of the calipers and pads design. I've always been told grease will melt then accumulate dust and debris, causing problems and seizing anywhere where the disk ventilation operates. However, some thin layer of high temp grease can solve minor problems in harsh conditions, thus implying a more frequent maintenance (end of winter...). Most actual brakes design used here in EU are similar: these stainless steel shims are supposed not require greasing per design, but I've seen many, and I recommend use of some antiseize at the shim-caliper interface, where electrolytic decay within different materials is always a problem. Some also put a little layer of high temp copper grease at the pad-piston interface for the noise, but it also depends on design... and technician. Some brakes systems can also require some spring loading, also against seizing and noise.
Many years ago a customer pulled in VERY SLOWLY and said his brakes were not working. Took a look and all four were covered in oil; not brake fluid. They had been squealing so he had oiled them.
In the snow belt, I always apply high temp brake grease on the bare metal of the bracket under the stainless steel brake shim to prevent rust jacking. Nothing at all between the shim and the brake pad. Never-sneeze is not correct for rust jacking under the shims. It is not designed for very high brake temps.
i use a light coat under the hardware only..putting it under the hardware slows the rust down and keeps it from squeezing the pads.. If you grease the slides it builds up dirt etc like you showed in the video. Most the hardware is stainless. if your worried about it... service your brakes every few months.