I used almost solely this stuff in my basement and I loved it. My only issues were, as you mentioned, in some areas I let the corner dip lower than the edge. Fortunately these are mainly on the ceiling where I just leveled them out with mud and no one will know. I really liked it for long ceiling duct runs. I was able to use one continuous length instead of a bunch of small sticks One other nice thing is I found it very easy to replace my mistakes. I simply took an oscillating tool and cut out the small section that was bad and bonded on a new section in the gap. No need to remove the entire stick. Another thing I liked it using it for inside corners. Sure, they are expensive. But it makes the corners so easily perfect with no need to sand them to perfection.
Been using strait-flex for all of my drywall projects for 15 years. Love it. I typically use their Perfect 90 for all inside, Mid-Flex for outside and the composite medium for bathrooms. I too really liked it for those long runs.
A tradesman can never have too many options when it comes to products and procedures. Every situation is different. And knowing how to use every option will save yer arse, especially when you're an hour or two from any hardware store or supplier.
Trigger word!!! Too funny sir. I’m a painter by trade and we do a lot of restoration work. Your videos have really given me a lot of tips for when we have to do drywall repairs. Thank you for what you do sir.
I had a piece of metal corner left over from a job so I "saved" it for later. It's been bumped, fallen, etc. so many times in the past 5 year that there's maybe 3' left that isn't dented or bent. I can't imagine trying to keep a piece in good shape in the back of a van.
In that part where you used paper tape in the corners I would suggest cutting the No-Coat product with a 45 degree angle so that the two pieces meet up. No need for paper tape then. Have had success with that. Really like this product and used it in a lot of places.
I was going to ask him, why he is not using a 45 deg cut? Even on those tapes you have those lines at 45 deg printed, so you can cut them easily. But I don't see a comment from Vancouver Carpenter.
Love that stuff, use it on ceiling's and inside corners,perfect 90s and angles 25% of the mud, one coat and done, never cracks, not as impressed with it for outside corners but only used it once for that, pricey but saves a ton of time and sanding even though i can do a great job with paper.
Is there any reason you didn’t miter the corners with the tapes to make them join perfectly as opposed to putting on a patch piece afterwards? Hope you understand my question.
Doing the 45/miter edge is how I use that sort of product on inside corners and hard corner bead on outside. Makes it easier for me to get it all uniform with less mud. Don't love this approach though I'm sure he makes the end product fine.
Why do you recommend taping mud/all purpose, and not some type of a setting compound to help make the corner beads stronger? Sorry, if this isn't 100% on topic, but I'm curious why beads don't get installed with a setting compound.
Greetings!! How did you do the inside square on the wall I have two cats and there is a space that I would like to do something like that in the wall for their bed. I appreciate it and thanks.
Thanks for all your instructions and tips. It’s been very helpful for me in my project. What do you think about flexible paper corner bead for inside corners that are less than 90°? Like a 45? Degree
VC! Working on the bathroom and told the wife earlier today “the goal isn’t flat, it’s the appearance of flat”. This quote is up there with Ben F’s Death and Taxes! You have a discord or something where we can show you pics and ask questions?
Do you add in glue with the all pupose mud like you encourage with other applications? Also it looks like you cut the ends straight didn't see you cut them at an angle?
Ben any suggestions for dealing with outside corners that are odd angles Do use this flexible cornerbead here? I just install this product in a room full of crazy angles. It looks good enough with texture that everyone was happy. But I know the quality wasn't where I want it. My only thought was I could of added blocking that brought the framing to more unified angles.
I always use hot mud to set these roll on corner beads, then coat them instantly. Once cured I'll top it with plus 3 and will sand it a couple days later. I do this same process with aquabead as well
Would durabond work when applying No-Coat to an inside corner? I'm doing a bathroom and am worried about the straightness of my ceiling/wall corner, so I'm leaning towards No-Coat and just don't have the faith in all-purpose / all-purpose lite that everyone else seems to@@1987pancakes
If your lucky the corner bead tape can just be creased into the corner when taping. If not you might need to cut the corner bead and then put a corner tape on top.
Hey Ben. Really enjoy your videos. I’ve learned a lot over the last year. Really appreciate it. I have a question. I was working on a ceiling that had two 22.5 angles and I had the hardest time getting them straight and nice. Any suggestions on that one?
If saying that putting a "liberal" amount on is too much of a trigger word then if you only put a little on would saying put a "conservative" amount on be just as much of a trigger?
@Tard Vargus I used all purpose. It was in a garage and on the side of more humid than dry… took days for the mud to dry completely, even with a fan circulating. Just give it another light coat of mud or is that nitpicking? It’s literally hairline, but I just don’t want the crack to get bigger
@Tard Vargus yeah I saw the kilted drywall guy use that caulk trick. I feel like it could be painted and no one would ever notice to be honest, unless it opens up. So the tape job beneath is good and I don’t need to disturb that, right? I wouldn’t be gouging out my tape job? Maybe a super tight bead of latex is enough to get the job done? It’s like a 3 inch long hairline crack where the wall meets the ceiling
"Liberal amount".... just say "conservative amount" every now and then .. and on other days say "independent amount" .... pay homage to them all... I'll laugh if you do...
I understand you have to be respectful to customers and potential customers but c'mon. Saying "hello" is a trigger word nowadays to these snowflakes. Don't change your vocabulary because of some indoctrinated idiot gets sensitive to a word, FFS. Honestly, that's a major red flag before accepting a job from them.
I was happy to see you drop some on the floor.. Makes me feel better that even the pros do it sometimes..
OMG !! " too much of a trigger word " I seriously laughed out loud !!!
Same 🤣
I’m from England bloody liberals
LMBO
me too 😂
I literally 🤣🤣 in the office.
Just too many trigger words now a a days!!! Love your work!!! Thank you 😊
What do you mean by “trigger”? This word very offensive for me, and you hurt my feelings!
I have to report your comment!:)
@@juzoli I believe “trigger” was the name of Roy Rogger’s horse. Wasn’t. It?
I used almost solely this stuff in my basement and I loved it. My only issues were, as you mentioned, in some areas I let the corner dip lower than the edge. Fortunately these are mainly on the ceiling where I just leveled them out with mud and no one will know.
I really liked it for long ceiling duct runs. I was able to use one continuous length instead of a bunch of small sticks
One other nice thing is I found it very easy to replace my mistakes. I simply took an oscillating tool and cut out the small section that was bad and bonded on a new section in the gap. No need to remove the entire stick.
Another thing I liked it using it for inside corners. Sure, they are expensive. But it makes the corners so easily perfect with no need to sand them to perfection.
Been using strait-flex for all of my drywall projects for 15 years. Love it. I typically use their Perfect 90 for all inside, Mid-Flex for outside and the composite medium for bathrooms.
I too really liked it for those long runs.
A tradesman can never have too many options when it comes to products and procedures. Every situation is different. And knowing how to use every option will save yer arse, especially when you're an hour or two from any hardware store or supplier.
Trigger word!!! Too funny sir.
I’m a painter by trade and we do a lot of restoration work. Your videos have really given me a lot of tips for when we have to do drywall repairs. Thank you for what you do sir.
Not the first time I’ve learnt something from you, easier to transport like you mentioned.
Thanks for sharing, always enjoy your videos 🙏🏻
I had a piece of metal corner left over from a job so I "saved" it for later. It's been bumped, fallen, etc. so many times in the past 5 year that there's maybe 3' left that isn't dented or bent. I can't imagine trying to keep a piece in good shape in the back of a van.
There’s a few new products like this on the market. They’re getting better every year. Great tutorial as always Ben.
I used them on a soffit once it worked out pretty well
good demo, i've used that for off angles will give it a try for little nooks next time.
In that part where you used paper tape in the corners I would suggest cutting the No-Coat product with a 45 degree angle so that the two pieces meet up. No need for paper tape then. Have had success with that. Really like this product and used it in a lot of places.
I was going to ask him, why he is not using a 45 deg cut? Even on those tapes you have those lines at 45 deg printed, so you can cut them easily. But I don't see a comment from Vancouver Carpenter.
Love that stuff, use it on ceiling's and inside corners,perfect 90s and angles 25% of the mud, one coat and done, never cracks, not as impressed with it for outside corners but only used it once for that, pricey but saves a ton of time and sanding even though i can do a great job with paper.
Is there any reason you didn’t miter the corners with the tapes to make them join perfectly as opposed to putting on a patch piece afterwards? Hope you understand my question.
Very good question.
Doing the 45/miter edge is how I use that sort of product on inside corners and hard corner bead on outside. Makes it easier for me to get it all uniform with less mud. Don't love this approach though I'm sure he makes the end product fine.
"but that's too much of a trigger word". Coming from Ottawa that gave me a good chuckle. liked + commented; already subscribed.
Thank you! Just finished a small soffit around some ducting using this stuff, great video.
"That's too much of a trigger word!"
combined with the tone of voice... best laugh I"ve had all week XD
“The drywalliest carpenter on the internet” 😂
I’ve also used this product (or one like it) for similar applications; fast and easy option, works well.
Amazing video and definitely very helpful I always like your videos and keep up the amazing work Ben
The Bob Ross of drywall
Why do you recommend taping mud/all purpose, and not some type of a setting compound to help make the corner beads stronger? Sorry, if this isn't 100% on topic, but I'm curious why beads don't get installed with a setting compound.
how is it that we have trigger words when working like we do? 😂 i loved it. laughing and my son was like "what did he say?" lmao
Greetings!!
How did you do the inside square on the wall I have two cats and there is a space that I would like to do something like that in the wall for their bed.
I appreciate it and thanks.
3:38 switching between metric and imperial units on the spot is the most canadian thing ever
Trigger word. Spat my tea. Well played
You keep doin’ YOU! You’re hilarious 😆.
Thanks for all your instructions and tips. It’s been very helpful for me in my project. What do you think about flexible paper corner bead for inside corners that are less than 90°? Like a 45? Degree
Thanks a lot for tour time. It's really helpfull
Thought for or against doing a miter on the wall side of the flange?
I always miter my outside corners don't know if it makes a difference
That is also how I do the outside corners,on a 45 or overlap
I also mitre my corners. I’ve even mitred my inside corners. Although I’ve stopped using it for inside corners.
Ben, do you ever mitre the corners? Or is that short piece of tape a better way to go?
VC! Working on the bathroom and told the wife earlier today “the goal isn’t flat, it’s the appearance of flat”. This quote is up there with Ben F’s Death and Taxes!
You have a discord or something where we can show you pics and ask questions?
2:14...the best part of the videos
Great video, thanks
“There’s one for the floor”
I’m crying 🤣😭
Do you add in glue with the all pupose mud like you encourage with other applications?
Also it looks like you cut the ends straight didn't see you cut them at an angle?
I cut them straight. No need to add glue to all purpose.
@@vancouvercarpenter ok thank you!!! (:)
Ben any suggestions for dealing with outside corners that are odd angles
Do use this flexible cornerbead here?
I just install this product in a room full of crazy angles.
It looks good enough with texture that everyone was happy. But I know the quality wasn't where I want it.
My only thought was I could of added blocking that brought the framing to more unified angles.
How many types of mud are there? And when do you use which? What are the pros and cons of each type?
He has a whole video about the types of mud there are and what the use/purpose of each is. Just search it
very useful!
You have done so many good videos, can you do videos of bad jobs gone horrible!
Can quick-set be used for corner beads?
I always use hot mud to set these roll on corner beads, then coat them instantly. Once cured I'll top it with plus 3 and will sand it a couple days later. I do this same process with aquabead as well
@@1987pancakes Thanks.
Would durabond work when applying No-Coat to an inside corner?
I'm doing a bathroom and am worried about the straightness of my ceiling/wall corner, so I'm leaning towards No-Coat and just don't have the faith in all-purpose / all-purpose lite that everyone else seems to@@1987pancakes
Do you suggest doing inside or outside corners first? What’s your suggested order of tape and mudding?
Can you use that for interior corners?
Yes you can. Or straight flex 300
What if you did a carpentry trick and miter the bead? Or halflap? Think that could hold? 🤔
Thanks for the tutorial, would a mitred joint help?
Not really. You would probably just wind up with one hairline crack instead of two. But it would look pretty cool.
I’ve often mitred my corners with this stuff. It looks good but it takes longer to cut and measure.
how would you handle outside corner 1 inch from inside corner? do you overlap both corners?
This! I just dealt with this the other day. Please give us advise.
If your lucky the corner bead tape can just be creased into the corner when taping. If not you might need to cut the corner bead and then put a corner tape on top.
Too much of a trigger word!😅 you are awesome. Lol
Drywalliest carpenter! 🤣
Step 1
Install no coat corner
Step 2
Coat it out!😂
Yup. No coat is really 3 coat!!!
👍
Always a pleasure. Thank you👊🏼
does anyone use the plastic corner beads?
Hey Ben. Really enjoy your videos. I’ve learned a lot over the last year. Really appreciate it. I have a question. I was working on a ceiling that had two 22.5 angles and I had the hardest time getting them straight and nice. Any suggestions on that one?
If saying that putting a "liberal" amount on is too much of a trigger word then if you only put a little on would saying put a "conservative" amount on be just as much of a trigger?
He's in Vancouver, BC. Saying hello is trigger word.
Finger sanders FTW!
Why would someone get hairline cracks on inside corners?
@Tard Vargus I used all purpose. It was in a garage and on the side of more humid than dry… took days for the mud to dry completely, even with a fan circulating. Just give it another light coat of mud or is that nitpicking? It’s literally hairline, but I just don’t want the crack to get bigger
@Tard Vargus thank you! I will try the wet sand on this one and lean to that mix you recommend from here out. Appreciate it!
@Tard Vargus yeah I saw the kilted drywall guy use that caulk trick. I feel like it could be painted and no one would ever notice to be honest, unless it opens up. So the tape job beneath is good and I don’t need to disturb that, right? I wouldn’t be gouging out my tape job? Maybe a super tight bead of latex is enough to get the job done? It’s like a 3 inch long hairline crack where the wall meets the ceiling
What is up with those floors there were other jobs on your channel like that
In floor heating. Same job. It's a long haul :)
“To much of a trigger word”. Lmao!!
So true though! LOL
I like metal corner beads more
World's strangest subfloor holy moly mayne 🤭🤭
On sofits it's fine. Way to weak for cornerbeads on walls
"I used to say 'a liberal amount', but now that's too much of a trigger word".... lmao
“Delayed shrinkage” - ahhh so that’s what it’s called…
Lmao .... I think they have a blue pill for that ! 🙂
Feather your edges 😃
In todays world, the only thing worse than applying a liberal amount is applying a conservative amount. lol
Amen
"Liberal amount".... just say "conservative amount" every now and then .. and on other days say "independent amount" .... pay homage to them all... I'll laugh if you do...
liberal...lol love your vids bud
🏠🔥❌
🏠🐇✅
I understand you have to be respectful to customers and potential customers but c'mon. Saying "hello" is a trigger word nowadays to these snowflakes. Don't change your vocabulary because of some indoctrinated idiot gets sensitive to a word, FFS. Honestly, that's a major red flag before accepting a job from them.
I mean, I get pretty triggered by the word liberal these days soooo.....