As a 30 year drywall pro I have installed miles (literally) of both paper and metal cornerbead. Paper is used predominately in commercial work (because steel studs can't be nailed/stapled) and metal is the standard in residential work. Neither will crack when installed correctly. It's like comparing which bucket holds water better, plastic or metal? The biggest difference between the two is that paper cornerbead requires the extra time for the mud to dry after being installed and before being coated (professionals do not typically coat over wet mud, contrary to what some UA-camrs might have you think), where as metal cornerbead can be coated immediately after being nailed on. For this reason, metal is almost always my first choice if the application allows.
I'm a DIYer doing my own house, and have learned a lot from your channel. The past few weekends I just did a whole ton of outside corners and doorways using paper corner beads, as that's all that my local Home Despot sells. So paper. Anyway, thanks for the vids, without them drywall would be a massive hassle. Thanks!
i concur these videos really helped with mudding and taping, where i live painting and taping is it's own trade. framing and drywall i got down because that's what carpenters do here, but on my side projects i get dragged into taping and these videos have helped decrease the time it takes me to mud
I came across this while researching for my latest cornerbead repair video and as always, great job Ben. You do a great job of teaching. I tested out a bunch of Strait Flex paper cornerbead on my channel years ago and I believe it's way better than steel bead. I've repaired a ton of cornerbead where the mud has popped off from a hit, and mud falls off easily if you pry slightly with a joint knife, but paper tape doesn't do that. I've found a LOT of rust on steel bead from high humidity rooms, etc and of course paper wont do that. The paper is less likely to buckle when installing also, so it goes on straighter. Once you start nailing, steel bead you can't change the alignment without a ripple or it looking real crooked. The paper cornerbead is stuck 100% of the way along the eges where as the steel bead is only physically attached to the drywall by a few nails or staples. You have to tape the edges to come close to the adhesion of paper tape. You also have to put a heavier coat of mud on the first coat of steel bead vs paper bead. And yes, steel cracks much more and is much easier to get on crooked. You can also get tape on bead with wider flanges for areas where there's too big of a gap in the drywall corner. Modern paper bead is very strong as it's usually much heavier on the outer corners than the tape edges and it even comes in tougher styles if you need that. I plan to build a house one day and will use nothing but tape on bead. Good explanation. Guy
@@vancouvercarpenter Opinions on vinyl from either of you? As a DIYer, it seems like it ought to be the best of both worlds (which is why I've always used it). A little flexible (buckles can be "relieved" by slicing out the extra material), but still has structure. No corrosion/rust (I've noticed that personally, which is why I don't use steel.) White, so it blends in with the mud/drywall, so "wear through" doesn't appear as easily. Cuts with a utility knife. It is thicker, but it's just a slightly wider feather on the mud. As a non-pro, the cost for most homeowner projects isn't likely all that significant. Is there a good reason to steer clear of vinyl? Edit: Just saw that you had a video on the subject, Ben. You might leave a link in the description or pinned comment so more bozos like me don't write you a book.
Another advantage (in my totally amateur experience) of paper-faced beads is how easily and cleanly they cut, particularly with the ruler-printed paper. Another helpful and clear video!
I'm a Maritimer expat living in The Netherlands and we have the metal corner beads as they use in Australia. They have a raised corner so there's a gap to fill as you move from the edge of the corner back towards the wall. They always seemed like a fairly rigid and practical solution for finishing corners, but mostly because I'm unfamiliar with the reinforced paper corners.
Been using steel corners for decades; just started with paper corners, which with at least the ones I put in also have some steel or aluminum in them, some years ago and definitely like them better as far as long term looks. Steel corners do hold up better on exposed corners that can be hit by furniture, people, etc definitely hold up better and can be fixed easier. A lot comes down to mud used as well; I like speed set on corners as it is much harder, shrinks less, and is just tougher than all purpose. For looks we have moved towards radiused plastic corners which don’t have mud out to the points and have very clean looks.
Thank you very much for another informative video. I like the paper beads too, but I prefer the metal. I've found though, that the metal beads are more durable if you don't use quick set mud. The ready mix seems to stick to the metal better and isn't as brittle. I also take a few seconds to force some mud into the holes.
I did commercial dry wall for years in Philadelphia and the carpenters used a tool called a clincher to install the metal bead. The clincher would align the bead and then pinch in little tabs that held the bead in place. The tapers would then tape the seam of the bead and dry wall. Since we were using metal stud shrinkage was not an issue.
Tile guy here 25 years.Absolutely love All your videos.So frigging helpful. Watch and learn from each video.And I don't even drywall.Thats how good this guy is.
Sure do enjoy watching your videos Ben. I have never used the paper faced bead but have installed many miles of the metal bead. I too love the sound n feel of applying mud over the metal bead. I might try the paper faced next time. They say u can't teach an old dog new tricks but u sure can! I hate using a mud pan, have always been a hawk n knife guy but have convinced me to try a trowel with my hawk! I can do stucco so a trowel n hawk should be no problem for drywall finishing. Thanks Buddy, you're the best!
I love the paper faced beads (both inside and outside). Having the rollers and the hopper certainly helps. (too bad the rollers and hopper are not available to rent instead of buying) I wish the makers would print "tape measure" markings from each end, so that when I have a measurement I don't need to put the tape measure onto the bead, I can just read off the bead itself, as most of the time one end is a factory cut. I tend to use 90 minute hot mud so I can do the first fill coat same day. (just make sure to clean up the hopper and roller before the mud starts to set up)
I just simply hold the bead up to where it needs to be . I then hold my thumbnail where the bead needs to be cut , then snip it. No measuring needed. =)
Hi Ben, great stuff. I think the paper corner beads are cool, will check if I can get them here in Austria. In Austria and Germany we mainly use aluminium corner beads with large hole patterns (similar to the Australian corner bead you showed). Just coat it, done... Additionally I use mesh tape and as far as I can remember I never had an issue with cracks at the corner bead. Personally I think that aluminium is the better choice as I have seen cheap steel corner beads rust, leaving ugly marks on the paint. Love your videos, cheers dude!
Hey VC, here in the U.S. we have what we call "metal mesh corner bead" . Mud goes right through it and bonds to the drywall paper really well. The drawback is its expensive, probably four times the cost of flat metal bead.
Thanks for mentioning the double-drywall scenario. I'm building a recording studio, and double-drywall is a critical component of the soundproofing approach. Unless I can find steel bead with longer sides, I'll need to go with paper-faced. Appreciate the guidance.
I use a compressor and a staple gun to apply metal (MUCH quicker and stronger than nailing it).Metal bead withstands years of furniture movement, as paper bead , not so much. On a wrapped doorway, I cut "dogears" at each end of the top piece of bead, that hang out a bit over the corner. The pieces of bead the go up the side (standup bead) , covers the dogears . This makes it much easier to match the very corner edges so u have no "click" when you run you're trowel over it. Also , there's no need to go back and tape all the little voids in the corners where the ends of the bead meet 43 Years of experience
figured i'd see that in the comments. and yep, old time, now retired remodeling contractor. that's the way. thumbs up. i make jewelry boxes anymore. been back to some of my jobs over twenty years down the road and still in fine condition. i've tried them all, but metal was always the best. sorry to anyone who disagrees. edit to add, i did 45 degree 'dog ears'. fit was always nice that way too.
I have been doing that very same method myself. I started my drywall career in 1976 and have been asked by the newer generation why cover the holes. Much easier than going back and taping them all. I also shoot staples on the beads and use mesh tape and hot mud for first coat.
I work in construction and have often wondered this but never really looked into it. We always use paper faced beads and everything you said lines up with my own experience. I will continue using paper faced... Thanks man!
If I'm tying into metal bead I use it so the bead looks consistent, but if it's stand alone then a paper. Unless it an off angle then it's no-coat. I tend to screw metal beads on that way you can tweak it to where you want it easier.
One advantage to metal is for use on small jobs, like a bathroom remodel or something. You can put it up and get two coats on in the same day if you use hot mud for the first. As opposed to having to wait for the paper mud to dry before coating.
Nice review Ben. I use neither, and hate vinyl. I only use "The Original" that you reviewed last year. Strong, movable, malleable, inside & outside with the same bead, and repairs are super simple. I know, you're in Vancouver and I'm in Florida. The only way we could get farther apart is if we both moved to Washington, D.C. And, availabilities differ depending on where we are. My personal take is, stick with the paper backed metal (and buy different ones for inside & outside) over the straight metal. That being said, if you use metal corner bead for the outside corners, you most likely only use tape for the inside corners. You go with what you know, and what works best for you. Metal would be much easier for the novice DIYer, to mud. But after beating the hell out of it with a hammer as they try to nail it, they will curse every drywaller thy have ever known.
not sure about the rest of Canada, but in Quebec paper beads are over twice the price, but are, in my experience way easier to install... hands down.. will never go back to metal beads.. I'm not a professional, just a DIY'er.. with paper, you never have to worry about where the screw is going.. thanks for the tips
Got a like for your mention of the Australian corner bead :) I'm an Aussie DIY'er and have used these a couple of times and they seemed pretty good, so was wondering how they compared. Love your vids, you've helped me a huge amount, so thanks!
As a repeat DIYer, vinyl is all I've ever used. I've always worried about rust/corrosion on steel (I've seen it cause corners to crumble, or at least appear to due to poor installation). Paper looked "fussy" to me. Vinyl is easy to handle, cuts with a utility knife, gets nailed/screwed on so you can get right to mudding. Plus, it's perforated, so if you pre-"fill" the corner, extra squeezes out or you can pack it in after attaching the bead. It's also white, so it won't show through as easily if the corner gets worn. I use so little of it that cost isn't a huge factor...I'm not even sure if it's more expensive or not. I have NO idea if the pros would agree...
About the only advantage of metal bead I've experienced is that it works better to hide crooked framing (in a soffit for example). That's probably not an issue for you, though, as I imagine the carpenters in your area never blow things together and move on.
You usually chalk a line on one side of the drywall surface for a straight finish, when it comes to steel only beads. Plus steel only beads are usually installed on commercial sites due to the fact steel studs are used.
trim tex plastic bead - spray on with adhesive and staple to hold in place. mud up and away you go...steel beads are a thing of the past with the plastic models and paper beads are great for bulkheads, alcoves and such. Although the paper beads do save some extra work as you can adhere them directly with compound.
Steel Bead Another important negative: Install on outside corners, like a T at the end of a hallway turning to Front & rear bedrooms. Add a hyper Golden retriever and a 69yr old owner(caught off guard). Result: Trip to hospital to have x-rays and stitches to close a 3" Gaping gap in the forehead.
The upstairs in my house has all steel corner beads, and the paint does not stick to the very tip of the corners. It’s so frustrating, we’ve been repainting the house and every corner almost had paint flaking off. The basement has paper beads and we don’t have that issue, just a million other ones from crappy craftsmanship lol
@4:50, I understand your point about the lack of connection to the framing working out as a positive to less cracking from movement, BUT how is it if someone accidentally bumps into the corner. Wouldn't the paper edges 'lack' of connection to the frame not be detrimental in this case? Or is the paper version entirely underfilled with mud?
Vinyl beads the way to go now. Throw it up and coat it right away. Also less prone to denting, and trim tex has thought of everything now; tear away bead, bullnose bead, combo bead that can be Installed linearly, or radially. The possibilities are endless with that stuff. TRIM TEX: I PUT THAT SHIT ON EVERYTHING edit: bulldoze-bullnose
Excellent product!! Definitely my go-to but distribution in Canada is terrible. I have to drive far to get it in Toronto. It’s readily available in America, you lucky guys! 🇺🇸
@@DaruDhillon I used to live in northern Ontario myself. If you suck up to you're preferred hardware store, you can usually convince them to stock it for you. That's what we had to do, our store had never even heard of it before
@@towndrunkjr.5420 that’s good to know! That’s the beauty of independent hardware stores, they care about their customers. I’ll give it a shot. Thanks!
Thanks for your contribution, just wanna share with you my own way to install metal ones. Metal is what I use in renovation or on not perfect scenarios. Let explain my process. Cut metal bid to size, apply a thick coat of hat mud like 5 or 20 minutes, put corner bid just like paper ones, wait for hot mud to half cure straight out your pieces, ones material hardened under bid run mesh tape on each side. And you ready to go perfect corner every time even on not so straight citations. no nails or screws required. Corners feel as solid they can be never hard a cracking one in 15 years. You should give it a try takes about the same as paper ones with better more durable results under some circumstances. Thank you
Tried to install paper faced bead using your tutorials, it was extremely frustrating to install because i couldnt get the gap on one side. Took it all out, and installed a steel bead, and was done without any issue.
In New Zealand so used to use steel 20 years ago despite extra holes still has same problems with cracking .I Use Paper corners ext and internal for speed I tend to roll corners on.
I've always used a bead clencher to install the metal bead, so not an issue when there's a double face with 5/8. I only use screws when the corner isn't straight and I have to get part of the bead sucked closer to the wall. That being said, I tried paper bead out for the first time, and really liked it. The guy sanding it didn't realize it was a paper bead though and destroyed a bit of the paper down low.... oops.
In Italy we have the steel beads like in Australia and also one type with a grid type structure instead of the holes. That is for repair of brick walls where concrete is used instead of mud.
I tried both for my first time last year and although the metal is easier to put on the paper faced felt more secure having mud behind it. Going with the paper faced from now on. Also easier to store without damaging.
great presentation. I ain't as good as you and gotta continue with what I know. metal bead and ring shank nails. like the idea of the mesh tape backup on the flange. thanks brother
Could You do a video on bullnose corner installation? I cut the drywall a little short of the edge so the bullnose will wrap tight on the corner but I always worry about being sure to fill behind the bead sone there isnt an easy spot to dent.
I think it depends on the steel beads. The ones you have as an example in this video are hideous and I personally wouldn’t use them. The beads I use have a lot more holes and you can push more plaster behind them so they are a lot stronger ! Edit: ok, just saw the example you used at the end of the video. This is what I use and they are great !
When using metal I like to apply mud behind the bead to help fill any gaps. Just take your knife and lay a decent amount right in the channel, then wipe clean with knife after install.
You might as well be using mud-on bead instead! lol You could eliminate the fasteners and just keep your mud tools with you. I did notice you said 'when' using metal. Under what circumstances would that be necessary?
I have 2 corner beads cracking in my house that need to be fixed. If you lived in my metro I'd hire you in a minute. I'm going to try to fix this weekend because of your information.
Metal backed paper we used on 45 degrees corners both inside and out. I would pre-fill the outside corners with a setting compound first for a proper “V” shape then apply a coat of mud and the corner.
I’m an animal. I learned from my grandfather and father who built homes from scratch. I realized all the techniques I use are completely unprofessional. As an example I use liquid nails to put those up. No screws no nails just put the construction adhesive behind it and position in place. It dries fast too because the drywall will suck the moisture out of it. The house I grew up in never failed. I even use it for small tile jobs or putting stuff on cement ceilings. I buy it by the case. Also, the crimper works well especially when combined with the above method. It’s a cheap tool that makes it fast. I did my garage, it’s been 5 years and multiple winters.
As a drywall newbie I searched far and wide and my conclusion is Metal Corner bead is to fix bad framing and Paper bead is to make it look straight. Professional drywallers don't fix framing so they prefer paper since they can just mud it on. However if you're a diyer metal beads give you the chance to fix the straightness of your framing and not have to worry about that during the mudding process.
VC, my new house has metal corner beads all over and they are already showing the cracks at 2 months. Rather than deal with the builder and their junk fixes, do you recommend replacing the all metal beads with paper beads, at least in the most problematic areas?
just a personal bias, but I prefer the paper faced metal (as apposed to plastic or composite) because the metal bead can be a handy spot for a magnetic laser level mount in the finishing(cabinets, pictures, accent walls, etc.)
I've repaired all the drywall on our 1980 built home and almost every room had cracks near the metal corner bead. Had to do a lot of taping to ensure they don't come back. If I had to do a corner from scratch I'd use paper.
Have you ever tried the trimtex beads? The new fast edge bead is really comparable to paper face, but you have the added durability of the vinyl corner
the vinyl corner isn't more durable at all. when a vinyl corner gets pounded, it often completely pops off instead of denting, causing you to need to replace the entire bead.
Proper paper corners, applied with mud, are hard to argue against. Paper corners that are sold flat on a roll, suck. Even worse are when installers don't mud them on, they spray glue them on they are VERY weak. ......I'm old school and prefer nailed on metal corners. I've always done them that way.
I have been using paper corner bead for years because it was so much easier. A year ago a guy I was working with said to wet the paper ( just hold it under a shower for a second). He said it would less likely to bubble and would be easier to install. He was right, its the only way I do it now.
as long as you have enough mud behind the paper, it'll never bubble. when you're doing a house with like 80 beads, it is completely impractical to wet the bead. not to mention time consuming and messy.
If you let the bead set on the wall with the mud for a minute or so before squeezing out the mud enough water should soak into the tape to prevent bubbling. Same goes for paper tape.
It seems to me that the paper bead would hold up better to small dings. The paint on the steel bead pops right off when you bump it, exposing the steel.
I had some liquid damage in our bathroom. Replaced some baseboards and drywall, thanks to your videos, to find the steel corner bead has rusted and crumbled away
For me the decision factor was about "double drywall". I'm using Sonopan under the drywall and so no where to connect steel, therefor paper is the only option. Thank you
most professionals i seen use plastic vinyl corner beed n adhesive with chaulk gun n have a quick scuffold with sand paper the vinyl corner bead outside layer,, its extra charge on contract n warranty depends on other materials based on contract price i have seen more in commercial industrial work n metal corner beads its rare in residential is paper corner beads
I'm in the process of finishing my basement. I'm in the drywall phase now and have been watching a lot of your videos. I was literally Googling this very subject the other day. Glad you made a video on the subject.
Could you compare paper-faced with trim-tex bead and no-coat? I've messed around with both on outside 90s but not sure on longevity compared to paper-faced.
no coat shouldn't go on outside corners. its edge isn't durable enough for it, and often when sanding you'll really ruffle the corner so it doesn't have a nice clean edge. however i'll usually use no-coat on uneven beads that are not 135 degree or 90 degree, instead of using that shitty rope bead garbage. trim-tex isn't as durable as either of the steel or paper face options. unfortunately there are bead options you can only get in vinyl
Ok, dumb question...I've done lots of DIY home reno's. I've never used corner bead at all...just tape and mud. Is there anything wrong with that? I have some renos now that are well over a decade old and have no issues on the corners. Is the paper/metal bead just to help against physical bumping?
I find paper bead easier to install, but have a problem when sanding down to final - have to be careful not to sand through the corner where the paper covers the metal. Metal bead, you can just sand until metal bead is fully exposed and then stop. Any tricks to avoid the problem? When you sand through the paper it shows and is hard to fix.
When renovating an home with existing steel beads should I continue to use steel or I can take the choice of steel or paper? Will one corner have a different look than the other if I decide to use both?
What about a location where the corner may be bumped some. I just used paper corner and earlier tonight my upholstered chair bumped it a little too hard and it tore. Would steel fare better in that situation? Thanks!
You're better-off using as few pieces as possible. Ideally just one. The more pieces you have, the more likely you'll have crooked corners. Unless you're in a bind, I don't think it's worth it.
If your run is long, you will want to try to have a factory end meeting a factory end. Even the best cut with good quality snips will leave a bit of a burr, so those are best buried at the end of a run or at floor level. As the other poster mentioned, they are cheap enough that you should try for fewer & longer pieces.
I agree with everything you said . My go to is paper face. I think bedding metal bead Is easier, also I think metal bead takes more mud to bed in.Other than that paper face all the way.
When I painted apartments/residential, I would constantly see cracked metal beads all the time and they were BEYOND annoying to fix.. paper beads were so much easier to fix..
As a 30 year drywall pro I have installed miles (literally) of both paper and metal cornerbead. Paper is used predominately in commercial work (because steel studs can't be nailed/stapled) and metal is the standard in residential work. Neither will crack when installed correctly. It's like comparing which bucket holds water better, plastic or metal? The biggest difference between the two is that paper cornerbead requires the extra time for the mud to dry after being installed and before being coated (professionals do not typically coat over wet mud, contrary to what some UA-camrs might have you think), where as metal cornerbead can be coated immediately after being nailed on. For this reason, metal is almost always my first choice if the application allows.
Be doing Comerica for years you can use steal corners and screw right threw the metal studs easy
What about vinyl?
@@TheBruunz He's got a different video on that. If I remember correctly, he said it took 3 coats instead of 2. So, he wasn't a big fan of it.
Here in stl carpenters we only install metal bead, and we use metal bead all the time with metal studs
You don’t have metal stud screws where you live?
I'm a DIYer doing my own house, and have learned a lot from your channel. The past few weekends I just did a whole ton of outside corners and doorways using paper corner beads, as that's all that my local Home Despot sells. So paper. Anyway, thanks for the vids, without them drywall would be a massive hassle. Thanks!
i concur these videos really helped with mudding and taping, where i live painting and taping is it's own trade. framing and drywall i got down because that's what carpenters do here, but on my side projects i get dragged into taping and these videos have helped decrease the time it takes me to mud
I came across this while researching for my latest cornerbead repair video and as always, great job Ben. You do a great job of teaching. I tested out a bunch of Strait Flex paper cornerbead on my channel years ago and I believe it's way better than steel bead. I've repaired a ton of cornerbead where the mud has popped off from a hit, and mud falls off easily if you pry slightly with a joint knife, but paper tape doesn't do that. I've found a LOT of rust on steel bead from high humidity rooms, etc and of course paper wont do that. The paper is less likely to buckle when installing also, so it goes on straighter. Once you start nailing, steel bead you can't change the alignment without a ripple or it looking real crooked. The paper cornerbead is stuck 100% of the way along the eges where as the steel bead is only physically attached to the drywall by a few nails or staples. You have to tape the edges to come close to the adhesion of paper tape.
You also have to put a heavier coat of mud on the first coat of steel bead vs paper bead. And yes, steel cracks much more and is much easier to get on crooked. You can also get tape on bead with wider flanges for areas where there's too big of a gap in the drywall corner.
Modern paper bead is very strong as it's usually much heavier on the outer corners than the tape edges and it even comes in tougher styles if you need that. I plan to build a house one day and will use nothing but tape on bead. Good explanation. Guy
Thanks!!! I’ve always wondered how trim Tex mud set beads hold up. I’m going to find out soon :)
@@vancouvercarpenter Opinions on vinyl from either of you?
As a DIYer, it seems like it ought to be the best of both worlds (which is why I've always used it).
A little flexible (buckles can be "relieved" by slicing out the extra material), but still has structure.
No corrosion/rust (I've noticed that personally, which is why I don't use steel.)
White, so it blends in with the mud/drywall, so "wear through" doesn't appear as easily.
Cuts with a utility knife.
It is thicker, but it's just a slightly wider feather on the mud.
As a non-pro, the cost for most homeowner projects isn't likely all that significant.
Is there a good reason to steer clear of vinyl?
Edit: Just saw that you had a video on the subject, Ben. You might leave a link in the description or pinned comment so more bozos like me don't write you a book.
Another advantage (in my totally amateur experience) of paper-faced beads is how easily and cleanly they cut, particularly with the ruler-printed paper.
Another helpful and clear video!
I'm a Maritimer expat living in The Netherlands and we have the metal corner beads as they use in Australia. They have a raised corner so there's a gap to fill as you move from the edge of the corner back towards the wall. They always seemed like a fairly rigid and practical solution for finishing corners, but mostly because I'm unfamiliar with the reinforced paper corners.
Been using steel corners for decades; just started with paper corners, which with at least the ones I put in also have some steel or aluminum in them, some years ago and definitely like them better as far as long term looks. Steel corners do hold up better on exposed corners that can be hit by furniture, people, etc definitely hold up better and can be fixed easier. A lot comes down to mud used as well; I like speed set on corners as it is much harder, shrinks less, and is just tougher than all purpose. For looks we have moved towards radiused plastic corners which don’t have mud out to the points and have very clean looks.
I appreciate your understanding and explaining things , I like the idea of adding some tape to the steel cornerbead
Thank you very much for another informative video. I like the paper beads too, but I prefer the metal. I've found though, that the metal beads are more durable if you don't use quick set mud. The ready mix seems to stick to the metal better and isn't as brittle. I also take a few seconds to force some mud into the holes.
I did commercial dry wall for years in Philadelphia and the carpenters used a tool called a clincher to install the metal bead. The clincher would align the bead and then pinch in little tabs that held the bead in place. The tapers would then tape the seam of the bead and dry wall. Since we were using metal stud shrinkage was not an issue.
you can still buy those
Tile guy here 25 years.Absolutely love All your videos.So frigging helpful. Watch and learn from each video.And I don't even drywall.Thats how good this guy is.
Sure do enjoy watching your videos Ben. I have never used the paper faced bead but have installed many miles of the metal bead. I too love the sound n feel of applying mud over the metal bead. I might try the paper faced next time. They say u can't teach an old dog new tricks but u sure can! I hate using a mud pan, have always been a hawk n knife guy but have convinced me to try a trowel with my hawk! I can do stucco so a trowel n hawk should be no problem for drywall finishing. Thanks Buddy, you're the best!
I love the paper faced beads (both inside and outside). Having the rollers and the hopper certainly helps. (too bad the rollers and hopper are not available to rent instead of buying)
I wish the makers would print "tape measure" markings from each end, so that when I have a measurement I don't need to put the tape measure onto the bead, I can just read off the bead itself, as most of the time one end is a factory cut.
I tend to use 90 minute hot mud so I can do the first fill coat same day. (just make sure to clean up the hopper and roller before the mud starts to set up)
I just simply hold the bead up to where it needs to be . I then hold my thumbnail where the bead needs to be cut , then snip it. No measuring needed. =)
Hi Ben, great stuff. I think the paper corner beads are cool, will check if I can get them here in Austria. In Austria and Germany we mainly use aluminium corner beads with large hole patterns (similar to the Australian corner bead you showed). Just coat it, done... Additionally I use mesh tape and as far as I can remember I never had an issue with cracks at the corner bead. Personally I think that aluminium is the better choice as I have seen cheap steel corner beads rust, leaving ugly marks on the paint. Love your videos, cheers dude!
Hey VC, here in the U.S. we have what we call "metal mesh corner bead" . Mud goes right through it and bonds to the drywall paper really well. The drawback is its expensive, probably four times the cost of flat metal bead.
I used vinyl corner beads when I drywalled my basement room. Stapled it on, applied a couple of coats of drywall compound, and it came out great.
I’m a fan of vinyl as well
I did vinyl a few weeks ago in my basement and it turned out very very nice. No nails/screws involved.
Thanks for mentioning the double-drywall scenario. I'm building a recording studio, and double-drywall is a critical component of the soundproofing approach. Unless I can find steel bead with longer sides, I'll need to go with paper-faced. Appreciate the guidance.
I use a compressor and a staple gun to apply metal (MUCH quicker and stronger than nailing it).Metal bead withstands years of furniture movement, as paper bead , not so much. On a wrapped doorway, I cut "dogears" at each end of the top piece of bead, that hang out a bit over the corner. The pieces of bead the go up the side (standup bead) , covers the dogears . This makes it much easier to match the very corner edges so u have no "click" when you run you're trowel over it. Also , there's no need to go back and tape all the little voids in the corners where the ends of the bead meet
43 Years of experience
We do dogears when we’re doing flashing on a roof too, same concept different application
I do this too. been using crown staples for 30 years to install metal corner bead
figured i'd see that in the comments. and yep, old time, now retired remodeling contractor. that's the way. thumbs up. i make jewelry boxes anymore. been back to some of my jobs over twenty years down the road and still in fine condition. i've tried them all, but metal was always the best. sorry to anyone who disagrees. edit to add, i did 45 degree 'dog ears'. fit was always nice that way too.
I have been doing that very same method myself. I started my drywall career in 1976 and have been asked by the newer generation why cover the holes. Much easier than going back and taping them all. I also shoot staples on the beads and use mesh tape and hot mud for first coat.
I work in construction and have often wondered this but never really looked into it. We always use paper faced beads and everything you said lines up with my own experience. I will continue using paper faced... Thanks man!
If I'm tying into metal bead I use it so the bead looks consistent, but if it's stand alone then a paper. Unless it an off angle then it's no-coat. I tend to screw metal beads on that way you can tweak it to where you want it easier.
Very good analysis Ben. Persuasive. I will try the paper-faced bead next time.
Dude you are awesome, you helped me with skating when I was younger and now your helping me with my first house!!! Much love brotha!
The first time I did drywall on the job I was taught to use a corner bead crimping tool. It's really fast and easy to use.
Crimping tools are only supposed to hold the cornerbead on until you put nails in it.
One advantage to metal is for use on small jobs, like a bathroom remodel or something. You can put it up and get two coats on in the same day if you use hot mud for the first. As opposed to having to wait for the paper mud to dry before coating.
Nice review Ben. I use neither, and hate vinyl. I only use "The Original" that you reviewed last year. Strong, movable, malleable, inside & outside with the same bead, and repairs are super simple. I know, you're in Vancouver and I'm in Florida. The only way we could get farther apart is if we both moved to Washington, D.C. And, availabilities differ depending on where we are. My personal take is, stick with the paper backed metal (and buy different ones for inside & outside) over the straight metal. That being said, if you use metal corner bead for the outside corners, you most likely only use tape for the inside corners. You go with what you know, and what works best for you. Metal would be much easier for the novice DIYer, to mud. But after beating the hell out of it with a hammer as they try to nail it, they will curse every drywaller thy have ever known.
Another great informative video. Thanks for sharing.
not sure about the rest of Canada, but in Quebec paper beads are over twice the price, but are, in my experience way easier to install... hands down.. will never go back to metal beads.. I'm not a professional, just a DIY'er.. with paper, you never have to worry about where the screw is going..
thanks for the tips
Got a like for your mention of the Australian corner bead :) I'm an Aussie DIY'er and have used these a couple of times and they seemed pretty good, so was wondering how they compared. Love your vids, you've helped me a huge amount, so thanks!
I would love VC to do a video giving vinyl beads a go. I think they are the easiest to manipulate. Only drawback is they seem to use a lot of mud....
As a repeat DIYer, vinyl is all I've ever used.
I've always worried about rust/corrosion on steel (I've seen it cause corners to crumble, or at least appear to due to poor installation).
Paper looked "fussy" to me.
Vinyl is easy to handle, cuts with a utility knife, gets nailed/screwed on so you can get right to mudding. Plus, it's perforated, so if you pre-"fill" the corner, extra squeezes out or you can pack it in after attaching the bead. It's also white, so it won't show through as easily if the corner gets worn.
I use so little of it that cost isn't a huge factor...I'm not even sure if it's more expensive or not.
I have NO idea if the pros would agree...
About the only advantage of metal bead I've experienced is that it works better to hide crooked framing (in a soffit for example). That's probably not an issue for you, though, as I imagine the carpenters in your area never blow things together and move on.
Hey VC, watching from Australia... about to plaster my first steel corner bead - thanks for the tips! Wish me luck
Good luck!
You usually chalk a line on one side of the drywall surface for a straight finish, when it comes to steel only beads. Plus steel only beads are usually installed on commercial sites due to the fact steel studs are used.
Thank you for all the great info!
As the inventor of drywall for 97 years, I can say this is spot on.
trim tex plastic bead - spray on with adhesive and staple to hold in place. mud up and away you go...steel beads are a thing of the past with the plastic models and paper beads are great for bulkheads, alcoves and such. Although the paper beads do save some extra work as you can adhere them directly with compound.
Paper faced composite.
Takes a hit and can self heal unlike steel which dents.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Steel Bead
Another important negative:
Install on outside corners, like a T at the end of a hallway turning to Front & rear bedrooms.
Add a hyper Golden retriever and a 69yr old owner(caught off guard).
Result: Trip to hospital to have x-rays and stitches to close a 3" Gaping gap in the forehead.
The upstairs in my house has all steel corner beads, and the paint does not stick to the very tip of the corners. It’s so frustrating, we’ve been repainting the house and every corner almost had paint flaking off. The basement has paper beads and we don’t have that issue, just a million other ones from crappy craftsmanship lol
@4:50, I understand your point about the lack of connection to the framing working out as a positive to less cracking from movement, BUT how is it if someone accidentally bumps into the corner. Wouldn't the paper edges 'lack' of connection to the frame not be detrimental in this case? Or is the paper version entirely underfilled with mud?
Vinyl beads the way to go now. Throw it up and coat it right away. Also less prone to denting, and trim tex has thought of everything now; tear away bead, bullnose bead, combo bead that can be Installed linearly, or radially. The possibilities are endless with that stuff. TRIM TEX: I PUT THAT SHIT ON EVERYTHING edit: bulldoze-bullnose
yes sir, that's the way!
I agree as well
Excellent product!! Definitely my go-to but distribution in Canada is terrible. I have to drive far to get it in Toronto. It’s readily available in America, you lucky guys! 🇺🇸
@@DaruDhillon I used to live in northern Ontario myself. If you suck up to you're preferred hardware store, you can usually convince them to stock it for you. That's what we had to do, our store had never even heard of it before
@@towndrunkjr.5420 that’s good to know! That’s the beauty of independent hardware stores, they care about their customers. I’ll give it a shot. Thanks!
Love it! Nicely explained !
Thank you!
Thanks for your contribution, just wanna share with you my own way to install metal ones. Metal is what I use in renovation or on not perfect scenarios. Let explain my process. Cut metal bid to size, apply a thick coat of hat mud like 5 or 20 minutes, put corner bid just like paper ones, wait for hot mud to half cure straight out your pieces, ones material hardened under bid run mesh tape on each side. And you ready to go perfect corner every time even on not so straight citations. no nails or screws required. Corners feel as solid they can be never hard a cracking one in 15 years. You should give it a try takes about the same as paper ones with better more durable results under some circumstances.
Thank you
Tried to install paper faced bead using your tutorials, it was extremely frustrating to install because i couldnt get the gap on one side. Took it all out, and installed a steel bead, and was done without any issue.
Thanks for sharing! I like the corners that have an adhesive that you spray water on to activate, have you tried those?
In New Zealand so used to use steel 20 years ago despite extra holes still has same problems with cracking .I Use Paper corners ext and internal for speed I tend to roll corners on.
I've always used a bead clencher to install the metal bead, so not an issue when there's a double face with 5/8. I only use screws when the corner isn't straight and I have to get part of the bead sucked closer to the wall. That being said, I tried paper bead out for the first time, and really liked it. The guy sanding it didn't realize it was a paper bead though and destroyed a bit of the paper down low.... oops.
In Italy we have the steel beads like in Australia and also one type with a grid type structure instead of the holes. That is for repair of brick walls where concrete is used instead of mud.
Sick skateboard! You're the man
I tried both for my first time last year and although the metal is easier to put on the paper faced felt more secure having mud behind it. Going with the paper faced from now on.
Also easier to store without damaging.
So you are saying you put the metal bead on wrong.
great presentation. I ain't as good as you and gotta continue with what I know. metal bead and ring shank nails. like the idea of the mesh tape backup on the flange. thanks brother
Could You do a video on bullnose corner installation?
I cut the drywall a little short of the edge so the bullnose will wrap tight on the corner but I always worry about being sure to fill behind the bead sone there isnt an easy spot to dent.
I think it depends on the steel beads. The ones you have as an example in this video are hideous and I personally wouldn’t use them. The beads I use have a lot more holes and you can push more plaster behind them so they are a lot stronger !
Edit: ok, just saw the example you used at the end of the video. This is what I use and they are great !
When using metal I like to apply mud behind the bead to help fill any gaps.
Just take your knife and lay a decent amount right in the channel, then wipe clean with knife after install.
You might as well be using mud-on bead instead! lol You could eliminate the fasteners and just keep your mud tools with you.
I did notice you said 'when' using metal. Under what circumstances would that be necessary?
I have 2 corner beads cracking in my house that need to be fixed. If you lived in my metro I'd hire you in a minute. I'm going to try to fix this weekend because of your information.
Just installed paper and they were fairly easy to install with good looking results
Thanks for all the great content. What do you think about plastic and plastic/paper beads?
Metal backed paper we used on 45 degrees corners both inside and out. I would pre-fill the outside corners with a setting compound first for a proper “V” shape then apply a coat of mud and the corner.
I’m an animal. I learned from my grandfather and father who built homes from scratch. I realized all the techniques I use are completely unprofessional. As an example I use liquid nails to put those up. No screws no nails just put the construction adhesive behind it and position in place. It dries fast too because the drywall will suck the moisture out of it. The house I grew up in never failed. I even use it for small tile jobs or putting stuff on cement ceilings. I buy it by the case. Also, the crimper works well especially when combined with the above method. It’s a cheap tool that makes it fast. I did my garage, it’s been 5 years and multiple winters.
Hey man I’m a carpenter from australia and thinking about making the switch to drywall/plastering, is the transition easy?
As a drywall newbie I searched far and wide and my conclusion is Metal Corner bead is to fix bad framing and Paper bead is to make it look straight. Professional drywallers don't fix framing so they prefer paper since they can just mud it on. However if you're a diyer metal beads give you the chance to fix the straightness of your framing and not have to worry about that during the mudding process.
Thx, gonna try the paper bead 👍🏼
Hope you like it!
Metal and mesh, fastened with staples. Really strong and won't shift with wood expansion or contraction
I've lived in houses with metal corner beads all my life (well over 50 years) and never seen the cracking problems he talks about.
Metal corner bead for the win, less mud overall, they last forever and repair easily, more sturdy and can't be ripped out as easily as paper bead.
My dad and me were carpenters tapers for years my dad was from Canada nice to see fellow Canadian.
VC, my new house has metal corner beads all over and they are already showing the cracks at 2 months. Rather than deal with the builder and their junk fixes, do you recommend replacing the all metal beads with paper beads, at least in the most problematic areas?
just a personal bias, but I prefer the paper faced metal (as apposed to plastic or composite) because the metal bead can be a handy spot for a magnetic laser level mount in the finishing(cabinets, pictures, accent walls, etc.)
I use metal, screws, and tape. I can easily correct a warped edge. I'm not a pro, just diy, so I have the time.
I've repaired all the drywall on our 1980 built home and almost every room had cracks near the metal corner bead. Had to do a lot of taping to ensure they don't come back. If I had to do a corner from scratch I'd use paper.
Have you ever tried the trimtex beads? The new fast edge bead is really comparable to paper face, but you have the added durability of the vinyl corner
the vinyl corner isn't more durable at all. when a vinyl corner gets pounded, it often completely pops off instead of denting, causing you to need to replace the entire bead.
Proper paper corners, applied with mud, are hard to argue against. Paper corners that are sold flat on a roll, suck. Even worse are when installers don't mud them on, they spray glue them on they are VERY weak. ......I'm old school and prefer nailed on metal corners. I've always done them that way.
I saw a guy using spray rubber cement on an ugly arch he put in. I can't imagine the drywall mud stuck to that spray glue all that well.
I have been using paper corner bead for years because it was so much easier. A year ago a guy I was working with said to wet the paper ( just hold it under a shower for a second). He said it would less likely to bubble and would be easier to install. He was right, its the only way I do it now.
as long as you have enough mud behind the paper, it'll never bubble.
when you're doing a house with like 80 beads, it is completely impractical to wet the bead. not to mention time consuming and messy.
If you let the bead set on the wall with the mud for a minute or so before squeezing out the mud enough water should soak into the tape to prevent bubbling. Same goes for paper tape.
It seems to me that the paper bead would hold up better to small dings. The paint on the steel bead pops right off when you bump it, exposing the steel.
Use a 6ft magnetic level to holdvthe steel bead as you install. Perfect corner everytime.
I had some liquid damage in our bathroom. Replaced some baseboards and drywall, thanks to your videos, to find the steel corner bead has rusted and crumbled away
if your steel corner bead has rusted, then you have had a water problem for a very long time.
I use mud set plastic beads. That's what I was taught to use. I've used paper faced also and I like them. Mud set are nice tho
For me the decision factor was about "double drywall". I'm using Sonopan under the drywall and so no where to connect steel, therefor paper is the only option. Thank you
Have you tried putting the steel corners on with a clincher tool?
no nails or screws
If you have a long run, like with a long header, do you just butt the two paper corner beads together?
Can you tape the corner bead up to the very corner or 1/4 " away or is that only mud on the corner beads?
Final issue is always serviceability. Steel should be used fir that reason alone.
most professionals i seen use plastic vinyl corner beed n adhesive with chaulk gun n have a quick scuffold with sand paper the vinyl corner bead outside layer,, its extra charge on contract n warranty depends on other materials based on contract price i have seen more in commercial industrial work n metal corner beads its rare in residential is paper corner beads
But the drywall is fastened to the framing so how is it any different? Does the drywall that's attached to the framing not move with the framing?
I'm in the process of finishing my basement. I'm in the drywall phase now and have been watching a lot of your videos. I was literally Googling this very subject the other day. Glad you made a video on the subject.
Glad to help
Could you compare paper-faced with trim-tex bead and no-coat? I've messed around with both on outside 90s but not sure on longevity compared to paper-faced.
no coat shouldn't go on outside corners. its edge isn't durable enough for it, and often when sanding you'll really ruffle the corner so it doesn't have a nice clean edge. however i'll usually use no-coat on uneven beads that are not 135 degree or 90 degree, instead of using that shitty rope bead garbage.
trim-tex isn't as durable as either of the steel or paper face options. unfortunately there are bead options you can only get in vinyl
Ok, dumb question...I've done lots of DIY home reno's. I've never used corner bead at all...just tape and mud. Is there anything wrong with that? I have some renos now that are well over a decade old and have no issues on the corners. Is the paper/metal bead just to help against physical bumping?
Same question I had
A ding can mush the drywall?
I was using metal beads back in the early 70s when paper came out much better in my opinion 👍🤠
Another great video, thanks Ben
My pleasure!
I find paper bead easier to install, but have a problem when sanding down to final - have to be careful not to sand through the corner where the paper covers the metal. Metal bead, you can just sand until metal bead is fully exposed and then stop. Any tricks to avoid the problem? When you sand through the paper it shows and is hard to fix.
When renovating an home with existing steel beads should I continue to use steel or I can take the choice of steel or paper? Will one corner have a different look than the other if I decide to use both?
If you have to ask this question, you should probably have someone else doing the renovation.
Will drywall nails pop thru? I've seen masonry nails used that popped.
Not if it's done right.
What about a location where the corner may be bumped some. I just used paper corner and earlier tonight my upholstered chair bumped it a little too hard and it tore. Would steel fare better in that situation? Thanks!
Do you have a technique for joining shorter lengths of paper faced beads onto one corner, or you prefer to always use a single full length piece?
You can but I don’t recommend because you have to float intersections where they meet paper faced is cheap enough to use one piece.
You're better-off using as few pieces as possible. Ideally just one. The more pieces you have, the more likely you'll have crooked corners. Unless you're in a bind, I don't think it's worth it.
If your run is long, you will want to try to have a factory end meeting a factory end. Even the best cut with good quality snips will leave a bit of a burr, so those are best buried at the end of a run or at floor level. As the other poster mentioned, they are cheap enough that you should try for fewer & longer pieces.
I agree with everything you said . My go to is paper face. I think bedding metal bead Is easier, also I think metal bead takes more mud to bed in.Other than that paper face all the way.
what happens if you use quickset (hot mud) instead of all purpose on corner beads? will it crack?
No, it will just take forever to sand.
Will have to use the paper bead after I put drywall over the popcorn ceilings.
Paper corner is the only choice when remodeling lathe and plaster walls.
I plaster for a living and use mesh mini bead. All metal.
@@jatpack3 union plasterer, and i agree. I use plaster beads for drywall finishing, better finished product.
You are wrong.
Love this video, but what about vinyl beads?
great vid ... wonderful job on this vid.
When I painted apartments/residential, I would constantly see cracked metal beads all the time and they were BEYOND annoying to fix.. paper beads were so much easier to fix..
Caught himself when he said wood shrinkage lol
lol....thought I was the only one to notice
do you ever use any fast setting muds? or do you stick with all purpose?
Always. Check my "advanced taping " playlist